Gary,

We had MALAIAKA II refit at AMEL's yard in Hyeres about a year ago. While
there they fixed the delamination problem. They removed the laminate, carefully
masked the area and painted it with a two part black paint. The masking took
about 4 hours and the painting about 5 minutes! It looks great and has held
up fine so far.

I'm not sure exactly what paint they used, but I'm sure AMEL will advise if
you ask.

Fair winds,

Charlie Cronheim
S/V MALAIKA II, SM 336

Gary,

We had MALAIKA II refit at AMEL's yard in Hyeres about a year ago. The
delamination problem was fixed at that time. They removed the laminate, carefully
taped and masked the area and spray painted with a two part black paint.

Hellow everyone:

My boat is now 5 years old and much of that time has been in the Caribbean. The black
panels that are interspersed between the cabin windows are made of some type of plastic
film laminated to a plastic or fiber substrate, and the black film is shrinking and delaminating
(presumable from UV and heat exposure).

I suspect that this is a common problem as I have seen similar appearances on other Amels.
Has anyone undertaken a repair for this cosmetic problem?

Would stripping the plastic film and painting with some type of polyurethane paint work? I
have toyed with with the idea of actually removing the panels and re-bedding new black
colored plexiglass panels (obviously a much bigger project).

Your experiences would be welcome.

Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 , lying Jolly Harbor, Antigua

Judy, I am in touch with Air, Water & Ice re the
membranes and they are telling me that you bought the
SW3-2540 membranes. Can you please confirm to me that
your watermaker actually is the Dessalator D60.
Thanks, Michael SM #345


--- Judy <sailingjudy@gmail.com> wrote:

We bought the Film-Tec membranes from Air, Water &
Ice in FL; think the
cost was about $179 each. TDS meter was about $40
but don't remember
name of company. I think Gary Silver made a posting
on this group site
about the Film-Tec membranes. You could try
searching for that.

BTW, the first few seconds of product water tests at
TDS levels
exceeding 4,000, even with our new membranes. We
discard the product
water until it tests about 150 before adding any to
our tank. This can
take 5 to 10 minutes before acceptable water is
produced.

Judy
S/V Security
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, michael
grunstein
<mgrunstein2002@...> wrote:

The watermaker performance on my boat seems to be

like

yours before you replaced the membranes. My

watermaker

is the Dessalator D60, and I am interested to know
where you bought the membranes, the TDS meter and
their cost.
Thank you,

Michael Grunstein, S/V Yonita #345

__________________________________________________
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Hi john
I believe you ll do a fine job.
Just remember to let the paint cure and ventilate the tank until resin odour disappears.In case after all your water smells I ll give you another recipe.

brgds
Nick

Hola John & Annie,

Dominique's Phone in Martinique is (0) 696 863 680

Tthe area code is 596 and from Canada I also dial 001 so: 001 596 696 863 680

By the way, how will you access the whole inside of the tank? I have heard of fuel thank refinishing with a vacuum technique and an injected resin but water tank?

Regards

Serge

anniemno1 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> a écrit :
Serge,

Thanks for the info. Would appreciate Dominique's recommendation on
resin.

Fair Winds,

John and Annie
Annie M (Mango #1)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "laetitiaii" <laetitiaii@...>
wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, anniemno1 <no_reply@>
wrote:

We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved

resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)

A few years ago while in Martinique, I had my fuel tank ( on my

other

boat) redone by a worker who was using as finishing coat, a white
epoxy finishing resin (it looks like gel coat, but it is air

cured),

which he stated was also used to refinish repaired water tanks in
French charter catamarans which often have cracks after a Atlantic
crossing. I was advised this resin is commonly used to finish water
tanks in new boats. The epoxy finishing resins seems to be readily
available in Martinique from fiberglass and resin suppliers... If
necessary I could find the tel no of a friend (Dominique Rousselot)
who is a Marine Surveyor in Martinique, who possibly could give you
the name of the product. I am presently in Andalousia, Spain,
preparing for a crossing, i would have to look up for Dominique's

tel

no.

Serge

Mango #51

Serge D. Tremblay

À bord d'OPÉRA

Lettres d'appel radioamateur: VE0ACI (contact radio: le réseau du capitaine, 14118 Mhz à 07:00 du matin, heure de Montréal, responsable M. André Fleury (450) 653 6021)

Tél:
Espagne: 34 606264003
Martinique:(596) (0)696398472
Montréal: (514) 871 0064

Courriel: laetitiaii@yahoo.ca
et (pour tout BREF courriel à recevoir en mer par ondes courtes: faire l'envoi en mode texte brut, sans pièce jointe, ni image, ni photo à ve0aci@winlink.org Notez bien: v e zéro a c i ...)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
En finir avec le spam? Yahoo! Courriel vous offre la meilleure protection possible contre les messages non nollicités
http://mail.yahoo.ca Yahoo! Courriel

Miles,
I had an inverter and 110 VAC circuits added to my '82 Mango. Running
the 110 VAC things was beating up the batteries badly. Constantly adding water
and eventually failing batteries. So I had the 220 VAC split, like in your
home, and powered the 110 VAC circuites off the 220 VAC 60 cycle shore power.
Took a new, slick and expensive VAC panel but worth it. When away from the
dock, I use the inverter and batteries. The 220 VAC appliances I inherited with
the boat work fine on 220 VAC 60 cycle but run at 17% faster than on 50 cycle
[vaccume cleaner, coffee maker, etc.] so they heat up faster and higher. So
far no problem. Yes, as long as your computer and printer have a CE
cetificate on the product they run fine on either 110 VAC 60 cycle or 220 VAC 60 cycle
without problems, you do need an adapter which does not have a common ground
circuit. That does make me nervious. I never leave those on overnight, just
in case.

Crash
"Windrush," Mango No.29

Captain Nick,

Thanks for the very helpful reference. The other issue is surface
preparation. Was advised by a marine surveyor in Houston (Mike
Firestone) to water blast the tank with a media such as walnut shells
prior to application of the resin.

Will advise all of success of process.

John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "koutsoukos Nikos"
<koutsoukosnikos@...> wrote:

Hallo I am Nick and owner of a kirk i am master mariner and

sailing atanker at the moment in north sea ,I suggest what we use in
the ships ,a heavy duty one as follows.

A good coating of a well known company is INTERNATIONAL :

INTERLINE 850 (WHITE OR BUFF) PRODUCT CODE:TLA 850/A

Surface preperation :sand paper or grinding ,cleaning.
Dry film thikness (dft 125 microns about two coatings with

roller),touch dry at 25deg C 5 hrs ,overcoating at same temp. min
8hrs max 30 days

Thinner GTA 420.
To avoid unpleasent odors in the water later let it dy well.

rgds
cpt.Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: anniemno1
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 4:33 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Tank Refinishing


We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved

resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Serge,

Thanks for the info. Would appreciate Dominique's recommendation on
resin.

Fair Winds,

John and Annie
Annie M (Mango #1)




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "laetitiaii" <laetitiaii@...>
wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, anniemno1 <no_reply@>
wrote:

We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved

resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)

A few years ago while in Martinique, I had my fuel tank ( on my

other

boat) redone by a worker who was using as finishing coat, a white
epoxy finishing resin (it looks like gel coat, but it is air

cured),

which he stated was also used to refinish repaired water tanks in
French charter catamarans which often have cracks after a Atlantic
crossing. I was advised this resin is commonly used to finish water
tanks in new boats. The epoxy finishing resins seems to be readily
available in Martinique from fiberglass and resin suppliers... If
necessary I could find the tel no of a friend (Dominique Rousselot)
who is a Marine Surveyor in Martinique, who possibly could give you
the name of the product. I am presently in Andalousia, Spain,
preparing for a crossing, i would have to look up for Dominique's

tel

no.

Serge

Mango #51

I have found that almost all electronic devices now days can be charged with
either 60 cycle 115 or 50 cycle 220. All you need is some plug adaptors.
Also, all laptops that I am familiar with can be charged from a 12 volt DC
source using a cigarette lighter adopter.



Miles Bidwell SM219

Regarding Peter Pappas' saga of changing the zinc in the water heater (taking 4 hours). I did it a little differently. Cut off water and power, took off all eight bolts on the bottom. Water went into the bilge. Took off 2 straps holding the tank, picked up the tank to top of engine room while helper pulled out heating elements. Helper puts on the new zinc. I clean out the tank on dock, getting 1/2 lb of rust out. Take tank back aboard, lower into engine room, re-install the heating units and put on bolts and straps. Total time 1 hour. I left the hoses and wire all connected.

If anyone needs more space in your lockers you can try vacuum packing clothes and even sails using your vacuum cleaner). It is amazing how much space is saved. You can buy most of the bag sizes at Target but can also order the jumbo bags on the web (Space Bags). I put my mizzen ballooner (still in its bag) in the jumbo size and squeezed the 2' x 3' bag down to 5 inches thickness. For the main ballooner I took it out of the bag, folded it up and then vacuum bagged it to a thickness of about 8 inches. It can be done so easily you can do it after every use. I also vacuum packed 3 dufflebags into a very small bundle.

_________________________________________________________________
Get free, personalized commercial-free online radio with MSN Radio powered by Pandora http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001

I put a 24 volt to 100 V under the cabinets over the crew bunk (by the engine room). Ran the wire up through the cabinet down thru the small hanging locker out into the battery box. No problem. Can't hardly see it. Only turn it on when you need it. 1000 Watts. Pure Sine Wave is brand name.
John Martin
Moon Dog
SM 248

From: "pellegrini1942" <afpellegrini@aol.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt to 110 Inverter
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 14:13:58 -0000

I am considering installing a Prosine inverter, PS1000, that converts
24 volt to 110 volt power. The portable 12 volt inverter that I use
will not charge the newer bright screen laptops or certain other
devices.
Does anyone have any experience or advise on using a 24 volt to 110
volt inverter.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
Voyageur SM # 373

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Jochen,
From personal experience, I'd strongly recommend you bite the bullet
and replace the whole thing. With the amount of corrosion in the
photograph, your on-board connector has got to be corroded, too, and
you've probably got a serious fire hazard.

If you replace everything, you'll undoubtedly get an escutcheon plate
with the new fitting, so the new paint job will not be affected.

Good luck,
Craig Briggs, Santorin #68

We are interested in installing a furling boom on our 1982 Maramu, which was built before Amel went to in-mast furling. We are tending toward the ProFurl Boom Furler at this point. Has any one in the group installed a furling boom on an Amel, or know of someone who has and can provide comment? I would be very ineterested to know if doing this is considered feasible, and if there are any particular issues to be aware of.

Thanks,

Dave Wallace
s/v Air Ops
Maramu #104

_________________________________________________________________
Get the latest Windows Live Messenger 8.1 Beta version.Join now. http://ideas.live.com

Hi all,

here's another little issue we have on board Blue Song:

If you look at the picture that I placed in the "Blue Song - Maramu
#143" album you can see that the plug from the shorepower cable has
really reached the end of its useful life. Of course all standards
have changed since this was made....

Does anyone know if (and if yes then where) I can get a replacement
plug for it. The only alternative would be to replace the on-board
connector as well and considering the beautiful new paint job that has
been done on our boat I would really like to avoid that.

Thanks in advance and fair winds,

Jochen Hofmann
S/V Blue Song

Hi all,

many of us sailing the seasoned Amels have this great unit onboard.
While I might one day consider replacing the Autopilot Electronics so
I can interface with the Raymarine equipment I had fitted about 2
years ago I definitely want to keep the drive unit "forever" as
nowadays I don't think units that solid are manufactured any longer.

My issue is: I do have a manual, but ONLY for the electronics. Does
anyone have a manual for the drive unit ???? And would be willing to
copy/scan/whatever it and let me have it (of course I'll cover cost
that might be involved) ???? Would feel much safer with one if we go
long-distance cruising early next year.

Also I'd like to know what kind of maintenance do you do to it, what
kind of problems did/do you experience if any.

I put a photo of the unit in the new album (Blue Song - Maramu #143) I
just created in the Pictures section.

Thanks to all and fair winds,

Jochen Hofmann
S/V Blue Song

Joe,
We've also got a 92 Santorin with a couple of nicks (from a prior
owner, of course, not us :-)

We were in La Rochelle last summer and picked up the gelcoat from
Olivier Beaute, whom you probably know of in Amel's "after service"
department. I'm sure he can ship it to you. We also picked some up in
Amel's service shop in Guadeloupe a few years ago.

This is probably the only way to guarantee a perfect match as we had
tried with a "mix-n-match" kit and it was barely passable - the factory
goop is perfect - just add the hardener catalyst, apply and then sand &
polish. You can't tell it's there.

We got three colors: hull white, deck white and rub rail brown; the
deck "faux teak" brown should be available too. By the way, we also
replaced the Amel decals on the coach roof sides that were terribly
faded - simple job that really looks great.

Cheers, Craig Briggs

I have a minor gel coat repair job to do on our 92 Santorin Khamsin B.
Can anyone point me in the right direction, as to where I can purchace
a small amount of gelcoat pigment for the job.
Thanks Joe McDonnell

We have a problem with Ocean Marine davits and our AB dinghy.



We cannot completely secure the dinghy in the davits. The AB dinghy
rises about 12" on the bow. This means when the bow is secure, the
stern still has about a foot to go. The davit fall lines and blocks
rise to the arm from the dinghy at a 45 degree angle per instructions.



We asked Ocean Marine about their optional stainless ratchet straps
which we heard they had supplied to another owner when he had a similar
problem. Ocean Marine seemed to get very defensive stating that they
have never supplied ratchet straps at no charge. They went on to say
the following:

Secure a line to the inside of the stern of the dinghy. Run this line
over the stern and under the dinghy. Use a trucker's hitch to
tighten and secure the line to the vertical cleat on the davit. This
cleat on the davit is in the perfect place for tying. Do the same with
another line from the point on the bow where the painter is
secured…"run this line under the dinghy and tighten to the opposite
site cleat using a trucker's hitch to tighten. It is the trucker's
hitch that makes the difference, but the fender is also needed on the
AB. If you simply tie the dinghy in bow and stern, you have no
mechanical advantage and no way to readjust if the dinghy loses air
pressure due to wind chill at sea. Therefore, the trucker's hitch is
fundamental to succeeding here."

We have an AB and followed their instructions exactly…here is what
we found and reported to them:

· We used a very large fender...11" in diameter---Not really
big enough for a tight fit when the blocks are as tight as they will go
and within 5" of one another. I am hesitant to buy a larger fender as
you know how much that will cost.

· The line that attaches to the stern and attaches with a
trucker's hitch and cleat on the davit rubs the bottom of the inboard
tube.

· The line that attaches to the bow and attaches with a
trucker's hitch and cleat on the davit rubs the bottom of the inboard
tube.

They responded to the above stating the ratchet straps usually rub
against the tubes and do not work well and "…not to blame a world
class product if you are unwilling to take some responsibility for
solving your tie in issues"



Any suggestions regarding how to secure an AB dinghy with Ocean Marine
davits would be appreciated.



Judy and Bill Rouse

S/V SECURITY SM2 #387





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]