I have a spare brand new (hoisted a couple of times but not used)
Super Maramu Ballooner for sale. I'll sell for $1,200 plus actual UPS
or Fedex shipping cost (only to US or Canada address, please).
Condition 9.75 out of 10 scale. Check out close-up photo at: <a
href="http://img52.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf10893lo.jpg";
target="_blank"><img
src="http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9840/dscf10893lo.th.jpg";
border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a>
or send me an email and I'll forward this high resolution photo to
you, plus a couple more.
Richard
closereach@yahoo.com

Amel recommends replacing or rebuilding the "sea water valves" in
their maintenance schedule. In their owners manual they refer
to
these as "stop cocks".

I obtained replacement stop cock valves for the engine sea water
intake, fwd and aft head intake, and holding tank discharge from
Amel and they sent the correct replacements which are 1 1/4" and 1
1/2" ball
valves.

However, I received no instructions for replacements and don't see
this addressed anywhere. The engine and head intakes look fairly
straight forward, but the holding tank discharge valve appears to be
glassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like it
must
be cut or removed to replace the valve/ stop cock.

These are for my 1993 Santorin, but should be similar or identical
for
the SMs during this period. Has anyone had experience with
replacement of these valves? I would appreciate any advice you
could
give me. Also, is teflon tape or grease advisable in the
replacement?


Bob Rossi, "Brittany de la Mer" #86.


Maint schedule is posted at
http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EKT4QzUYDn-
WiJLZppAxC9lqQ1hYSIwyk1hCYdOdB4hdjZEm2CkUB-
_xcSDjtbz7RnSpGlGbYND4eH6VGCFc1SBwPg578N3Xnbg/maintenence%
20schedule.pdf

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:

Ed and others:

I had similar trouble with my 160 l/hr watermater on SM # 335. This behavior
began about 6 months after it was new (about the time we set off across the Atlantic).
The 20 amp breaker would trip intermittently and periodically just as yours did.

This problem continued intermittently until recently when it became more
frequent. So I checked the current draw at the 220 volt breaker panel
in the galley by using a clamp type AC ammeter and with the high pressure
pump running under load. The draw was only 13.5 amps. The breaker is a
20 amp breaker. Normally inductive motor start up loads are high and
you would expect the trip to occur with HP pump motor start, but this has
not been my experience. The trip would happen seemingly randomly and
unrelated to load or start. I didn't have a replacement breaker so I adjusted
the existing breaker. This is done by turning the red painted "set" screw on
the back of the breaker slightly. I turned mine each 1/8th turn. This tensions
a spring inside the breaker and raises the tension that must be developed on
the bi-metallic conductive strip in the breaker that causes a trip when load
exceeds the "breaker size" limit. Of course I no longer know what the actual
trip value of this breaker is. I intend to replace it with a 25 amp breaker as
soon as possible.

Note that 13.5 amps is probably not the total current draw for the desalinator.
The circuit box on the back of the watermaker control panel has a 25 amp
breaker labeled "HP" presumably for the HP pump, and also a 6 amp breaker
labeled "BP" which I presume is the "Brine Pump" or low pressure feed pump.
I will take some more measurements next time I am on the boat to verify this.
I am trying to get a copy of the schematic and logic diagrams for the water
maker from Dessalator. So far they have only offered to supplly an
installation wiring diagram. I am prepared to reverse engineer this system
to get to the bottom of these questions.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona

I had a problem with the 160 l / hour watermaker on SM#331 which
tripped the breaker when it was first put into service. There had
been a seal failure problem with the pre-feed pump and I replaced
this with no change in the breaker tripping behavior. Sometimes the
unit would operate for 30 minutes or so before the breaker tripped. I
tried simply replacing the Amel supplied 20 ampere breaker, assuming
that it was faulty but the problem persisted. After several e-mails
to Amel, they agreed that I should replace the breaker with one rated
for 25 amperes. I did this and the unit has operated perfectly for
the past 12 months. I have since discovered that at least one other
Super Maramu owner has had to make the same modification. I have
assumed that the unit must be drawing around 22 amperes in normal
operation – around 4.8 kW but I have not metered this.

Ed Steele
#331 `DoodleBug'

Hello fellow members,
We are the new owners of SM266. Question, I run the generator (we are
on the hook in the BVI) and the green light comes on, on the 220V
panel. I deperess the breaker to turn on the battery charger, but the
charger does not charge the batteries. Is the another breaker that I
am not finding? On the charger a Nemo 50 amp. the yellow light stays
on and the green light flickers on and off. I have a multimeter, but
am not very familar with electricity or trouble shooting.... so I am
not sure where to "read" to see the chargers output. Any Ideas??
Thank you.

Joe,

Craig's advice is spot on, we follow the same approach. I use a relatively inexpensive (~$80) magnifying loupe to inspect the fittings -- you need somehting like that to be able to see a very small crack that might form, but don't need anything else. Last year I found one lower swage fitting with that type of crack and replaced that piece of rigging, but the rest was fine. Our rigging is 18 years old so I will probably replace the rest before we take off cruising again, but the rigger who inspected our boat two years ago did not advocate replacing the rigging just based on a timeline.

Dave Wallace
s/v Air Ops -- Maramu -- 1982

Joe,
Robin's repy points out quite clearly the "mysticism" of rigging
lifespan. Too many factors impinge - many years in the tropics - bad;
many heavy weather sails - bad; a berth with a "jerky" chop - bad; and
so on. So the insurance companies, as Robin suggests, sometimes step in
with their own arbitrary criteria - no doubt very conservative. Or,
for "peace of mind", as Robin says, we replace it anyway.

My take is to inspect your rigging yourself every year - you'll spot
any swage cracks or other problems quite easily and can take the
appropriate action. You're always vulernable to what the product
reliability folks call "infant mortality", where the brand new fitting
fails, but that's quite unlikely (I used to calculate that stuff!).

Before our transatlantic in 2004 I inspected our 1992 rigging and found
it to be perfect. The "admiral" (my wife, Katherine) wanted a "second
opinion" so we hired a well respected rigger to take a second look - a
reasonably priced safety check - and he agreed it was fine. So 14 years
works for us - I suspect we'll easily go 20.

BUT - you're on your own on this one - there's no "magic" number.

Best regards,
Craig and Katherine Briggs
s/v Sangaris - Santorin #68 - 1992

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
wrote:

Frankly I would talk to your insurance company - some will not cover

rigging failure after 10 years unless it has been tested, others don't
mind. For peace of mind we replaced ours after 14 years and it really
looked in excellent condition. However you can have good looking
stainless steel rigging which parts with no warning....

Robin Cooter

joemac4sail <joemac4sail@...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing

rigging

on a santorin. Thanks

15 Feb 2006

Hi all:

I just completed installation of new FilmTec SW30-2540 membranes ($177.00 each from
Air, Water, and Ice, Inc.) in my water maker. Not a difficult job one accomplished. Hardest
part was getting the end caps off. I have detailed the process in some Photos that I just
uploaded. My end caps were all ok, the O-rings were all ok, there was some moderate
corrosion of the stainless interconnect thimble, and a defect in the brine seal of one of the
membranes. However, I believe the failure mode was the membrane material themselves.

Output is good, my new Omega EC monitor (220 volt wired to the desalinator breaker) is
working great. The Dessalator salinity sensor does not work at all despite testing it three
ways from Sunday with various scenarios. I am still trying to get some answers from Rod
Boreham and Dessalator. I have spent a couple of hours on the phone with Rod and a
couple of calls to Dessalator plus about 20 emails back and forth. I will let you all know
more when I know more.

In the mean time, I would not run my Dessalator watermaker without backup continuous
monitoring of the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) or EC (Electrical Conductivity). Until we
know more there is just no guarantee that the Dessalator sensor will divert bad quality
water during an operational cycle, thus filling your fresh water tank with salt water.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 2000 Hull # 335

The answer to my earlier question is that 1/2 cm of movement is entirely normal. Ian Jenkins, Pen Azen,Santos, Brazil.

thank you

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:

The bulbs for my Foredeck Light and Cockpit Light are General Electric GE 4502 Lamps (28

vollt, 50 watt). There are also surely direct replacements (size, wattage & voltage from other
manufacturers.

Regards, Gary Silver, Amel SM Hull # 335






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Frankly I would talk to your insurance company - some will not cover rigging failure after 10 years unless it has been tested, others don't mind. For peace of mind we replaced ours after 14 years and it really looked in excellent condition. However you can have good looking stainless steel rigging which parts with no warning.

If you are in U.K. or Europe I suggest that you talk to StaLok as they gave us a really good price which was less than all other estimates, and very good service.

One word of warning. We approached AMEL for a rigging plan - lengths, thickness etc. but their figures did not match up to the real lengths of our rigging!

Our boat number is Santorin 004, a sloop.

Regards

Robin Cooter

joemac4sail <joemac4sail@yahoo.ie> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing rigging
on a santorin. Thanks






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--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:

Mark wrote, " 2. Another way to spot coral heads is to install sonar. The transducers

seem very large for most forward looking sonars such as EchoPilot and Interphase? What
do these transducer do to sailing performance on the Amel Super Maramu? Are the sonars
practically useful for finding one's way in coral fringed islands?"

15 Feb 2006

Mark: I had Amel install an Interphase Twin Scope on my SM 2000 Hull # 335 at the time
of purchase (July 2001). Amel would only install the display and a single transducer.
They refused to install both transducers. As they explained to me, their experience was
limited to the single transducer (vertical scanning) and felt that two transducers or the
dual combined transducer, which is physically larger, would create turbulance and
interefere with the B & G sonic speed system. At my first haul out I installed the second
transducer (horizontal scanning) for the TwinScope about 18 inches in front of the Amel
installed transducer. This places it slightly higher than the vertical scanning transducer
and therefore does not shadow the signal from it. The system works well at speeds under
3 to 4 knots, even better at 1-2 knots, does not interefere with the sonic speed in any way
that I can determine and has saved out bacon several times so far. It is NOT the
ultimate answer to avoiding coral heads etc as it can be fooled by thermoclines etc., yet I
have found it a useful tool when combined with a careful watch, good lighting, and careful
navigation. I can't detect any discernable decrement in sailing performance but it only
makes sense that it increases drag and disrupts laminar water flow. I do find the
horizontal scanning mode more difficult to interpret but as with any graphical tool,
practice makes perfect. Display readability in bright sunlight is its main weak feature.
Would I do it again? Yes!

Regards, Gary S. Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

Does anyone have performance polars for the Super maramu. You need them
to use the weather routing function of Max Sea.
Can you e-mail them to me or - better - post them to this site ?
Thanks.
Jerome

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:

The bulbs for my Foredeck Light and Cockpit Light are General Electric GE 4502 Lamps (28

vollt, 50 watt). There are also surely direct replacements (size, wattage & voltage from other
manufacturers.

Regards, Gary Silver, Amel SM Hull # 335

Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing rigging
on a santorin. Thanks

My wife and I will be selling our Mango this year. It is currently located
in Puerta Vallarta , Mexico. Interested parties can contact me at
_silkair@aol.com_ (mailto:silkair@aol.com) Michael

To the AMEL owners group.

For the deck lamps on the main and mizzen, I use a military
application lamp with a hardened filament. I have them on
the boat now and I believe they are General Electric part
#4502F. They are 28 volt and I have never had one fail even
at a 30 volt surge. Any good light bulb specialty shop can
get them for you. If they are not General Electric, I will
post the correct manufacturers name shortly.

I replace all the halogen bulbs with 24 volt ZENON bulbs.
G4 series in 10 and 20 watt. They are about 90% as bright
with a softer light. Their real advantage is that, on my
last two Super Maramus, once they were in place I never had
a failure, not one. They are about 10% more expensive than
halogen but worth it. Again, any specialty lighting show
can get them or order online.

We use Causeway Lighting at 777 S.E. 20th St. here in Fort
Lauderdale. You can reach them at
causewaylight442@bellsouth.net or by phone at (954)
764-0970. Speak with Debbie or Bob. They are checking to
see if they can get the #4502F bulb or something similar. .


I just finished a 1500 mile romp up from Martinique through
the Bahamas then home to Fort Lauderdale on my new AMEL 54,
hull # 14, HOLLIS. What a boat! I am biased, certainly,
but the boat is truly magnificent. We had every kind of
wind and weather including 60 knots++ at the eastern edge of
the Gulfstream during a strong Northwester full gale. Huge
seas at insane intervals and plenty of challenges. The boat
loves to fly at 10 knots plus (saw 17) under staysail and
reefed mizzen in 40 knots+++ of breeze. Balance and
manageability were superb. A worthy and entirely improved
successor to the Super Maramu.

Hope this helps.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter, AMEL 54, HOLLIS, hull # 14

Dck light reference number:04 22 20- 24V/50W at REYA's (WWW.REYA.COM).

Reya, 144 Av de la Roubine, BP 126, 06156 Cannes la Bocca CEDEX,
France
Email France: reya@reya.com
International Email: export@reya.com
Tel: + 33 493 904 700 Fax: + 33 493 904 710

While we are at it, here are the reference of the other bulbs on
board an SM 2000:

Ceiling Halogen: G4 -24V- 10 W et 20W : les 10w à 4.9€ et les 20w à
12€ (28v à 2.94)
On partitions: BA – 15D – 24V/25W : 2
Navigation lights: BAY – 15D - 10W et 25W

Hope the above hemp solving your problem.

Please keep in mind that when the engine is on (or when you are on
marina power) you have 27 volts in the light circuit: a very fast way
to detroy the bulbs you put ON under such a voltage.
Amel has no solution to this problem.

Jerome
NIRAO SM #432

Does anyone know the part number for a replacement blub for the mizzen
deck light. Thank you. Peter Pappas "Callisto" #369

Hi,

we have just acquired a SM 2000 and are looking to buy back up sails.
Has anyone out there got the sizes of the sails and groove widths
please. Our boat is the Med at present and we are unable to get out
there for a while to get the information. Also we would greatly
appreciate any advice regarding additional anchors,currently we have
the CQR s/s standard bow anchor only, thanks

John and Amanda Blyth
"Amelie"

Hello Rudi,

My sympathies regarding your situation. It happened to me after 550 hours on
my first SM and although the replacement of the bush and seals was a
straight forward job to do (once the propeller comes off!), it was
inconvenient at the time and cost over $300 for a lunch break haul out. I
was given 1 hour to complete the job whilst the boat rested in the
Travelhoist slings!

I have heard that you can improve the life of the bushing by making it out
of a different material to bronze. I have heard ceramic mentioned by one
owner, but it might prove too expensive. Last summer I met a very
knowledgeable German owner who was about to have the bush made undersize in
stainless steel then chromed to fit. The chrome will provide a much longer
lasting surface for the lip seals, and will also prevent corrosion of the
stainless due to lack of oxygen below the water line. Double lipped seals
will be used and three Alan screws used instead of two to help obtain better
alignment. He reckons the bush will last three times as long, and recommends
a Molyslip additive to the oil in view of the fact that you may not be able
to change the oil as often.

He is having one made for me also. I guess it will be several years before I
will be able to tell you if it works or not! Has anyone else tried this?

Due to a change of plans, I did not visit Rod Boreham to talk about
Dessalator water makers as planned. Has anyone heard back from him? I seem
to remember he had promised to write to this forum.

Finally, I have heard that mixing antibiotics with anti fouling greatly
increases the life of its growth repellent properties. Has anyone tried this
please? Did it work?

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 'Crusader'