New Super Maramu Ballooner for sale
I have a spare brand new (hoisted a couple of times but not used)
Super Maramu Ballooner for sale. I'll sell for $1,200 plus actual UPS or Fedex shipping cost (only to US or Canada address, please). Condition 9.75 out of 10 scale. Check out close-up photo at: <a href="http://img52.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf10893lo.jpg"; target="_blank"><img src="http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9840/dscf10893lo.th.jpg"; border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a> or send me an email and I'll forward this high resolution photo to you, plus a couple more. Richard closereach@yahoo.com
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Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement
rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
Amel recommends replacing or rebuilding the "sea water valves" in
their maintenance schedule. In their owners manual they refer to these as "stop cocks". I obtained replacement stop cock valves for the engine sea water intake, fwd and aft head intake, and holding tank discharge from Amel and they sent the correct replacements which are 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" ball valves. However, I received no instructions for replacements and don't see this addressed anywhere. The engine and head intakes look fairly straight forward, but the holding tank discharge valve appears to be glassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like it must be cut or removed to replace the valve/ stop cock. These are for my 1993 Santorin, but should be similar or identical for the SMs during this period. Has anyone had experience with replacement of these valves? I would appreciate any advice you could give me. Also, is teflon tape or grease advisable in the replacement? Bob Rossi, "Brittany de la Mer" #86. Maint schedule is posted at http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EKT4QzUYDn- WiJLZppAxC9lqQ1hYSIwyk1hCYdOdB4hdjZEm2CkUB- _xcSDjtbz7RnSpGlGbYND4eH6VGCFc1SBwPg578N3Xnbg/maintenence% 20schedule.pdf
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Re: Water maker power draw
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:
Ed and others:I had similar trouble with my 160 l/hr watermater on SM # 335. This behavior began about 6 months after it was new (about the time we set off across the Atlantic). The 20 amp breaker would trip intermittently and periodically just as yours did. This problem continued intermittently until recently when it became more frequent. So I checked the current draw at the 220 volt breaker panel in the galley by using a clamp type AC ammeter and with the high pressure pump running under load. The draw was only 13.5 amps. The breaker is a 20 amp breaker. Normally inductive motor start up loads are high and you would expect the trip to occur with HP pump motor start, but this has not been my experience. The trip would happen seemingly randomly and unrelated to load or start. I didn't have a replacement breaker so I adjusted the existing breaker. This is done by turning the red painted "set" screw on the back of the breaker slightly. I turned mine each 1/8th turn. This tensions a spring inside the breaker and raises the tension that must be developed on the bi-metallic conductive strip in the breaker that causes a trip when load exceeds the "breaker size" limit. Of course I no longer know what the actual trip value of this breaker is. I intend to replace it with a 25 amp breaker as soon as possible. Note that 13.5 amps is probably not the total current draw for the desalinator. The circuit box on the back of the watermaker control panel has a 25 amp breaker labeled "HP" presumably for the HP pump, and also a 6 amp breaker labeled "BP" which I presume is the "Brine Pump" or low pressure feed pump. I will take some more measurements next time I am on the boat to verify this. I am trying to get a copy of the schematic and logic diagrams for the water maker from Dessalator. So far they have only offered to supplly an installation wiring diagram. I am prepared to reverse engineer this system to get to the bottom of these questions. Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona
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Battery Charger
Ag Av8ter
Hello fellow members,
We are the new owners of SM266. Question, I run the generator (we are on the hook in the BVI) and the green light comes on, on the 220V panel. I deperess the breaker to turn on the battery charger, but the charger does not charge the batteries. Is the another breaker that I am not finding? On the charger a Nemo 50 amp. the yellow light stays on and the green light flickers on and off. I have a multimeter, but am not very familar with electricity or trouble shooting.... so I am not sure where to "read" to see the chargers output. Any Ideas?? Thank you.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin
David Wallace
Joe,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Craig's advice is spot on, we follow the same approach. I use a relatively inexpensive (~$80) magnifying loupe to inspect the fittings -- you need somehting like that to be able to see a very small crack that might form, but don't need anything else. Last year I found one lower swage fitting with that type of crack and replaced that piece of rigging, but the rest was fine. Our rigging is 18 years old so I will probably replace the rest before we take off cruising again, but the rigger who inspected our boat two years ago did not advocate replacing the rigging just based on a timeline. Dave Wallace s/v Air Ops -- Maramu -- 1982
From: "Craig & Katherine" <sangaris@aol.com>
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[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin
Joe,
Robin's repy points out quite clearly the "mysticism" of rigging lifespan. Too many factors impinge - many years in the tropics - bad; many heavy weather sails - bad; a berth with a "jerky" chop - bad; and so on. So the insurance companies, as Robin suggests, sometimes step in with their own arbitrary criteria - no doubt very conservative. Or, for "peace of mind", as Robin says, we replace it anyway. My take is to inspect your rigging yourself every year - you'll spot any swage cracks or other problems quite easily and can take the appropriate action. You're always vulernable to what the product reliability folks call "infant mortality", where the brand new fitting fails, but that's quite unlikely (I used to calculate that stuff!). Before our transatlantic in 2004 I inspected our 1992 rigging and found it to be perfect. The "admiral" (my wife, Katherine) wanted a "second opinion" so we hired a well respected rigger to take a second look - a reasonably priced safety check - and he agreed it was fine. So 14 years works for us - I suspect we'll easily go 20. BUT - you're on your own on this one - there's no "magic" number. Best regards, Craig and Katherine Briggs s/v Sangaris - Santorin #68 - 1992 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...> wrote: rigging failure after 10 years unless it has been tested, others don't mind. For peace of mind we replaced ours after 14 years and it really looked in excellent condition. However you can have good looking stainless steel rigging which parts with no warning.... Robin Cooterrigging on a santorin. Thanks
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Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
15 Feb 2006
Hi all: I just completed installation of new FilmTec SW30-2540 membranes ($177.00 each from Air, Water, and Ice, Inc.) in my water maker. Not a difficult job one accomplished. Hardest part was getting the end caps off. I have detailed the process in some Photos that I just uploaded. My end caps were all ok, the O-rings were all ok, there was some moderate corrosion of the stainless interconnect thimble, and a defect in the brine seal of one of the membranes. However, I believe the failure mode was the membrane material themselves. Output is good, my new Omega EC monitor (220 volt wired to the desalinator breaker) is working great. The Dessalator salinity sensor does not work at all despite testing it three ways from Sunday with various scenarios. I am still trying to get some answers from Rod Boreham and Dessalator. I have spent a couple of hours on the phone with Rod and a couple of calls to Dessalator plus about 20 emails back and forth. I will let you all know more when I know more. In the mean time, I would not run my Dessalator watermaker without backup continuous monitoring of the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) or EC (Electrical Conductivity). Until we know more there is just no guarantee that the Dessalator sensor will divert bad quality water during an operational cycle, thus filling your fresh water tank with salt water. Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 2000 Hull # 335
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Volvo gear box
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
The answer to my earlier question is that 1/2 cm of movement is entirely normal. Ian Jenkins, Pen Azen,Santos, Brazil.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: REPLACEMENT BULB FOR MIZZEN DECK LIGHT SM 2000
peter pappas <pjppappas@...>
thank you
amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote: The bulbs for my Foredeck Light and Cockpit Light are General Electric GE 4502 Lamps (28vollt, 50 watt). There are also surely direct replacements (size, wattage & voltage from other manufacturers. Regards, Gary Silver, Amel SM Hull # 335 SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- --------------------------------- What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin
Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
Frankly I would talk to your insurance company - some will not cover rigging failure after 10 years unless it has been tested, others don't mind. For peace of mind we replaced ours after 14 years and it really looked in excellent condition. However you can have good looking stainless steel rigging which parts with no warning.
If you are in U.K. or Europe I suggest that you talk to StaLok as they gave us a really good price which was less than all other estimates, and very good service. One word of warning. We approached AMEL for a rigging plan - lengths, thickness etc. but their figures did not match up to the real lengths of our rigging! Our boat number is Santorin 004, a sloop. Regards Robin Cooter joemac4sail <joemac4sail@yahoo.ie> wrote: Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing rigging on a santorin. Thanks SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- --------------------------------- Yahoo! Messenger NEW - crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail
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Re: some questions
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:
seem very large for most forward looking sonars such as EchoPilot and Interphase? What do these transducer do to sailing performance on the Amel Super Maramu? Are the sonars practically useful for finding one's way in coral fringed islands?" 15 Feb 2006 Mark: I had Amel install an Interphase Twin Scope on my SM 2000 Hull # 335 at the time of purchase (July 2001). Amel would only install the display and a single transducer. They refused to install both transducers. As they explained to me, their experience was limited to the single transducer (vertical scanning) and felt that two transducers or the dual combined transducer, which is physically larger, would create turbulance and interefere with the B & G sonic speed system. At my first haul out I installed the second transducer (horizontal scanning) for the TwinScope about 18 inches in front of the Amel installed transducer. This places it slightly higher than the vertical scanning transducer and therefore does not shadow the signal from it. The system works well at speeds under 3 to 4 knots, even better at 1-2 knots, does not interefere with the sonic speed in any way that I can determine and has saved out bacon several times so far. It is NOT the ultimate answer to avoiding coral heads etc as it can be fooled by thermoclines etc., yet I have found it a useful tool when combined with a careful watch, good lighting, and careful navigation. I can't detect any discernable decrement in sailing performance but it only makes sense that it increases drag and disrupts laminar water flow. I do find the horizontal scanning mode more difficult to interpret but as with any graphical tool, practice makes perfect. Display readability in bright sunlight is its main weak feature. Would I do it again? Yes! Regards, Gary S. Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
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Performance polars
jlcmcg <JLC@...>
Does anyone have performance polars for the Super maramu. You need them
to use the weather routing function of Max Sea. Can you e-mail them to me or - better - post them to this site ? Thanks. Jerome
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Re: REPLACEMENT BULB FOR MIZZEN DECK LIGHT SM 2000
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:
The bulbs for my Foredeck Light and Cockpit Light are General Electric GE 4502 Lamps (28vollt, 50 watt). There are also surely direct replacements (size, wattage & voltage from other manufacturers. Regards, Gary Silver, Amel SM Hull # 335
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Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin
joseph mc donnell
Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing rigging
on a santorin. Thanks
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Amel Mango for sale in Puerta Vallarta
silkair@...
My wife and I will be selling our Mango this year. It is currently located
in Puerta Vallarta , Mexico. Interested parties can contact me at _silkair@aol.com_ (mailto:silkair@aol.com) Michael
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] REPLACEMENT BULB FOR MIZZEN DECK LIGHT SM 2000
amelforme
To the AMEL owners group.
For the deck lamps on the main and mizzen, I use a military application lamp with a hardened filament. I have them on the boat now and I believe they are General Electric part #4502F. They are 28 volt and I have never had one fail even at a 30 volt surge. Any good light bulb specialty shop can get them for you. If they are not General Electric, I will post the correct manufacturers name shortly. I replace all the halogen bulbs with 24 volt ZENON bulbs. G4 series in 10 and 20 watt. They are about 90% as bright with a softer light. Their real advantage is that, on my last two Super Maramus, once they were in place I never had a failure, not one. They are about 10% more expensive than halogen but worth it. Again, any specialty lighting show can get them or order online. We use Causeway Lighting at 777 S.E. 20th St. here in Fort Lauderdale. You can reach them at causewaylight442@bellsouth.net or by phone at (954) 764-0970. Speak with Debbie or Bob. They are checking to see if they can get the #4502F bulb or something similar. . I just finished a 1500 mile romp up from Martinique through the Bahamas then home to Fort Lauderdale on my new AMEL 54, hull # 14, HOLLIS. What a boat! I am biased, certainly, but the boat is truly magnificent. We had every kind of wind and weather including 60 knots++ at the eastern edge of the Gulfstream during a strong Northwester full gale. Huge seas at insane intervals and plenty of challenges. The boat loves to fly at 10 knots plus (saw 17) under staysail and reefed mizzen in 40 knots+++ of breeze. Balance and manageability were superb. A worthy and entirely improved successor to the Super Maramu. Hope this helps. All the best, Joel F. Potter, AMEL 54, HOLLIS, hull # 14
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Re: REPLACEMENT BULB FOR MIZZEN DECK LIGHT SM 2000
jlcmcg <JLC@...>
Dck light reference number:04 22 20- 24V/50W at REYA's (WWW.REYA.COM).
Reya, 144 Av de la Roubine, BP 126, 06156 Cannes la Bocca CEDEX, France Email France: reya@reya.com International Email: export@reya.com Tel: + 33 493 904 700 Fax: + 33 493 904 710 While we are at it, here are the reference of the other bulbs on board an SM 2000: Ceiling Halogen: G4 -24V- 10 W et 20W : les 10w à 4.9€ et les 20w à 12€ (28v à 2.94) On partitions: BA – 15D – 24V/25W : 2 Navigation lights: BAY – 15D - 10W et 25W Hope the above hemp solving your problem. Please keep in mind that when the engine is on (or when you are on marina power) you have 27 volts in the light circuit: a very fast way to detroy the bulbs you put ON under such a voltage. Amel has no solution to this problem. Jerome NIRAO SM #432
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REPLACEMENT BULB FOR MIZZEN DECK LIGHT SM 2000
pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
Does anyone know the part number for a replacement blub for the mizzen
deck light. Thank you. Peter Pappas "Callisto" #369
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spare sails SM 2000
John Blyth
Hi,
we have just acquired a SM 2000 and are looking to buy back up sails. Has anyone out there got the sizes of the sails and groove widths please. Our boat is the Med at present and we are unable to get out there for a while to get the information. Also we would greatly appreciate any advice regarding additional anchors,currently we have the CQR s/s standard bow anchor only, thanks John and Amanda Blyth "Amelie"
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel drive leaking at propeller shaft, SM 116,
Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
Hello Rudi,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
My sympathies regarding your situation. It happened to me after 550 hours on my first SM and although the replacement of the bush and seals was a straight forward job to do (once the propeller comes off!), it was inconvenient at the time and cost over $300 for a lunch break haul out. I was given 1 hour to complete the job whilst the boat rested in the Travelhoist slings! I have heard that you can improve the life of the bushing by making it out of a different material to bronze. I have heard ceramic mentioned by one owner, but it might prove too expensive. Last summer I met a very knowledgeable German owner who was about to have the bush made undersize in stainless steel then chromed to fit. The chrome will provide a much longer lasting surface for the lip seals, and will also prevent corrosion of the stainless due to lack of oxygen below the water line. Double lipped seals will be used and three Alan screws used instead of two to help obtain better alignment. He reckons the bush will last three times as long, and recommends a Molyslip additive to the oil in view of the fact that you may not be able to change the oil as often. He is having one made for me also. I guess it will be several years before I will be able to tell you if it works or not! Has anyone else tried this? Due to a change of plans, I did not visit Rod Boreham to talk about Dessalator water makers as planned. Has anyone heard back from him? I seem to remember he had promised to write to this forum. Finally, I have heard that mixing antibiotics with anti fouling greatly increases the life of its growth repellent properties. Has anyone tried this please? Did it work? Regards Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 'Crusader'
-------Original Message-------
From: Rudi_zel Date: 02/10/06 07:23:39 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel drive leaking at propeller shaft, SM 116, I get water into the Amel drive at the shaft seal near the propeller. As I am now in a position where I can not take the boat out of the Water (Bocas del Toro, Panama)I am looking for advise. The overflow Container shows white oil (sort of mayonese), but the level did not Rise much (yet). Will the Amel drive survive another 40 hrs? Rudi Zelenka, Yahoo! Groups Links -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.1/250 - Release Date: 03/02/2006
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