Gary
There was an attachment..it is concerning the mandatory 96 hour notice of arrival for boats coming into the US.

amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
Was there an attachment that didn't get attached? What was it that
came across your desk?
Thanks, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Derek jarvis
<sailorman522000@y...> wrote:

This came across my desk here at Bollman Yachts that is a new

ripple in the Home Security regulations for yachts coming to the US.

Sounds like they mean business!
Cheers Derek Jarvis



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Was there an attachment that didn't get attached? What was it that
came across your desk?
Thanks, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Derek jarvis
<sailorman522000@y...> wrote:

This came across my desk here at Bollman Yachts that is a new

ripple in the Home Security regulations for yachts coming to the US.

Sounds like they mean business!
Cheers Derek Jarvis



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Yahoo! Domains - Claim yours for only $14.70/year

This came across my desk here at Bollman Yachts that is a new ripple in the Home Security regulations for yachts coming to the US.
Sounds like they mean business!
Cheers Derek Jarvis



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Dear All,

I would welcome some advice as to what is needed to visit France with my Amel Fango
"Ebbrezza". If anyone can give me the details I would be very grateful.


Regards,


Rob,

Fango No 24 Ebbrezza

Santorin No 54 Khamsin

Dear All,

We are moving our Fango to la Rochelle. I plan to leave Cork on 28th June and to visit
some ports on the way down. She is still for sale but I will use her in the neantime as we
have a house near Saintes about 40 mins from La Rochelle.

Our contact details are:

I am available on 00 353 87 239 6153 and Dennis my partner on 00 353 86 221 0606.
Martin Bandy is looking after the sale 00 44 1489 781061. My No. when in France is
05 46 97 87 76. Amel visitors in particular very welcome.

You can also see the details on the web site:

http://homepage.mac.com/rob.molly/Fango.html

Rob

Hi Ian,
Without wishing to seem unduly thick I would love to know why Amel
agreed to ship your boat all the way back to Europe instead of
sending a new mast to Canada. On the face of it this would have
enabled you to carry on cruising in the Far North.
It would also have been a lot quicker and cheaper.
I know curiosity killed the cat but the answer would be interesting.

Regards from Malta, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319

Hello,

Mi advise is to start loading the boat early in the
morning to avoid that the people start doing the work
in a hurry to go home. I had some problems because
when time to leave work arrived the mast was still
half loaded. Mark and take pictures of every think you
have to dismount specially electrical connections. In
my case I had to travel about 500 miles and I followed
the truck.

Good luck
S/V Daal
Hull #214 (Kirk)



--- ispirit2 <ispirit2@...> wrote:

Greetings all, Has anyone moved their boats over
land by truck that
would have any hints they think helpful to me to
minimise my learning
curve and help get my boat to its new home in as
good as shape as when
it left its old one? De-masting? Special tricks to
avoid excessive
vibration to internal parts? The trip will be 1100
miles or so.
Thank you to one and all for their feedback.
S/V Infinite Spirit
Hull #31 (Mango)

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My SM 2000 Crusader was trucked from Newfoundland to Halifax, then taken by
ship to Antwerp, then trucked to Amel's yard at La Rochelle.

The design of cradle Amel recommend has just four support points for the
hull with the majority of the weight being taken by the keel (placed on a
wooden base).

If you use this design, be very careful that the hull supports are placed
over the fore and aft bulkhead locations, else you will crack the hull. This
happened to my boat.

Frankly I feel that if you can make a fully contoured cradle, you might be
safer. Alternatively, if the truck has jacks you can wind up to the hull,
you may avoid the lift operator lowering the boat onto the non reinforced
areas of the hull.

I only had to take down the mizzen mast as the main had come down by itself!
Removal was straightforwards having disconnected the electronics cables
located behind the aft heads paneling. I got the yard to attach a strop from
a crane and the rest was easy.

I hope that this helps. I will be unable to comment further as I am off to
Hyeres tomorrow to get my boat back and have no direct internet access on
board. I can be emailed at g4ljf@... You will have to register
first time and then resend your email.

Good luck and a safe journey.

Ian Shepherd

SM 414 Crusader

Greetings all, Has anyone moved their boats over land by truck that
would have any hints they think helpful to me to minimise my learning
curve and help get my boat to its new home in as good as shape as when
it left its old one? De-masting? Special tricks to avoid excessive
vibration to internal parts? The trip will be 1100 miles or so.
Thank you to one and all for their feedback.
S/V Infinite Spirit
Hull #31 (Mango)

Hi Gary,

The job is done! The bronze unit came out with grooves on it. Probably
damage from a fishing line. Two seals came out after a lot of work with a
screwdriver (punching through the seal). Your suggestion of a sealdrive pipe
worked excellent.
We placed two seals in such a way to prevent water coming in and the first
seal to block the oil from leaking out.

Thanks for your help!

Kind Regards,

Willem J. Kroes
Santorin 69 "Kavanga"
home port: Zaandam, The Netherlands

I had the same problem due to a crack in the pump body. Through the
hairline crack the pump was leaking. Amel send me a spare part
immediatelly. You can find technical information in the internet at
following address: www.feitpompe.com.

Regards

Dimitris
S/M Alma Libre

I thought that my pump was leaking but it was not. The leak that we
had was caused by the out hose being wound up like a spring when the
pump is put into its place and the spring unwound itself unscrewing
the plastic spigot on the pump. Sea water then escapes but the
source of the leak is not obvious as it is so far out board.
After three goes I finally got it right!

Regards, John and Anne, Bali Hai, SM 319

I think that the advice is rubbish. These are normally secured on
most yachts with shackles. The lines do not seem to deteriorate with
UV at least not for a very long time. If they did then we would all
be scrapping every line on the boat together with the sails every
two years. Most of the lines on my last boat were still good after
10 years in the tropics although the genny sheets were very worn.
The thing that does have to be renewed every two years is the bungy
which takes up the slack on the topping lifts as it loses its
elasticity.
One thing you have to watch is that the lines securing the tacks are
not too long. About a couple of inches above the bottom of the
forestay is about right. If it is much higher the halyard will be
jammed up against the sheave box at the mast head when the tension
is cranked up to flatten the headsail as the wind strengthens.

Regards, Anne and John Bali Hai, SM 319

Hello Gary, Sorry about the delay, been moving house.
To replace the element or the thermostat you have to get the tank on
deck. To do this drain some of the coolant out of the main engine so
that when you remove the hoses from the engine to the tank the
coolant does not go all over the place. Remove the hoses from the
engine keeping your thumb over the end of one and put one end in the
tray under the engine and let all the coolant in the hose syphon out
before blowing down the hose to really get it all out. Repeat the
process with the two hoses connecting to the plumbing manifold
putting the cold hose under the engine to drain the tank. Release
the two s/s straps securing the tank and move it to a horizontal
position so you can get the end cover off to disconnect the wires
and then take the tank out on deck or ashore before removing the end
plate. This is held on by bolts and there is a plastic seal which
has silicone sealant on it so it is quite hard to prise the end
plate off using two screwdrivers on opposite sides of the end plate.
The plate and the tank are stove enamelled with a glass finish so be
careful. Have a helper handy when you open the tank so that both of
you can quickly scrape off the scale which is very soft but hardens
very quickly as it dries. Some of the scale is out of sight on the
heating coil and you really do have to get the tank out of the
engine room to empty all the scale/sludge out of it and to work on
the end plate etc.. I will post some photos of the fitting in the
SM319 Photo album, page 2. Click on the thumb nails to get large
scale pics.
Unscrewing the nut holding the heating element looks difficult.
There is no reset button but strangely there is a housing for a
separate therostat although the Quick element has its own stat with
no apparent way of bypassing it.
Refitting is ,I hope just a matter of reversing the process but I
won't know until I get the new anode and seals this week.
Good luck with it.

Regards, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319

Hello.

I wish to sell my Kirk.



It is in good condition: hull, engine, painting, sails, and electronics.

It has been used since 1996 two month a year in Greece by me and my family.

If you are interested ask for details and photographs to:

Philippe.lebegue@...

(0033) (0)321834663

Hi Gary,

as I am away from my boat till May 19th, I cannot tell you what size Isotemp
tank Amel fit. If no one can tell us before then, I will let you know once
I am back on board.

I think that I will re-install my arrangement of valves thant I had on the
previous boat to allow the coolant water from the genset to also heat the
hot water tank. It was quite a job to make up a manifold for the Onan, but
once done, the water is heated far quicker than by the immersion heater
element, and it does make good use of otherwise wasted energy.

Regards

Ian Shepherd Crusader

May 1, 2004

Hi Ian:
Thanks for your post. I recently attended the Sail Expo West in
Oakland California, and there researched various hot water heaters.
I concluded that the Iso Temp all stainless steel one would be the
one I purchase as soon as I get Liahona to Ft. Lauderdale in June.
Which size does Amel install as the current equipment; the model 6401
10.5 gallon or the model 6501 13.2 gallon?

All of my discussion about the Quick water heater is just to get me
operational until I get the replacement.

Regards, Gary Silver Liahona

I have been reading the discussions regarding water tank anode replacement
with some concern as when I took delivery of boat # 414 I was told that
there was not an anode in the tank when I tried to order some spares.

However, having just made a visit to the yard, I have confirmed that this is
correct for the new model of tank now fitted made by Isotemp. It is all
stainless steel with a glass lining and so there should be no more red water
problem (originating from the copper heating coil disolving when the anode
has gone), and no more of that dreadfully messy job of replacing the anode
at frequent intervals. I think I had to do it around every six months on the
previous boat.

I guess that time will tell if the Isotemp tank does indeed live up to
expectations, but it might be worthwhile considering upgrading from the
Quick to the Isotemp?

Just a thought

Regards

Ian Shepherd 'Crusader'

May 1, 2004

The anchor wash down pump on our hull # 335 SM 2000 leaked from day
one. Amel rebuilt it under warranty twice (Laurent in Guadeloupe)
but it leaked sea water still. Last year Laurent replaced the pump
(again under warranty) with the higher voltage rated pump (I think 32
volts). I believe that the theory here was that the high voltage
pump would run slower on the available 24-28 volts and therefore be
less likely to generate as much pressure and be less likely to leak.
Nevertheless, the new pump leaks at the same parting seal despite
never having been turned on. I believe now that the surging
pressures in the sea chest (called "housing" by Amel) and the
associated plumbing may put too much pressure on this style of pump
seals. I have wondered about putting an accumulator tank in line here
to dampen pressure surges. I would be interested in the experience of
others.

I have purchased a Graco bronze vane pump with pressure switch. I am
anticipating replacing the Amel anchor wash down pump with this one
and in the process doing away with the sea water feed. I want to
plumb fresh water to this pump and hence to the anchor washdown. I
am also anticipating putting a valve and a hose bib in the forward
port locker to accomodate a deck wash down system using this newly
plumbed fresh water system. Has anybody else out there done this?
Any potential drawbacks to this? The only things I have worried
about are:
1. The size of the fresh water plumbing coming from the fresh water
tank, is it too small? Will the vane pump cavitate or not hold prime?
2. The pressure rating on the plastic tubing that runs from the
anchor washdown pump to the bow of the boat. I don't want to blow a
hole in this tubing.
Any thoughts on either of these two items.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Gary Silver

Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

May 1, 2004

Hi Willem:

As regards the orientation of the three seals on the Amel prop shaft
bushing and seals, I am now uncertain how I oriented them. I do
remember that the drawing that Amel included with the manuals and
other documentation showed them oriented differently than how I found
them when I removed them on my boat. I believe that we decided it
was more important to keep the sea water out than to keep the oil in
so I think that we placed the inner two facing out and the outer one
facing in, (but again I can't remember for sure). I know we had a
discussion with the technician helping me, but he was not an Amel
person. It might be worth an Email to Amel to get their official
take on this (including the reasoning for their stance).

I will tell you that wherever the oil got on the bottom paint it
later peeled off in large sheets. I used aluminum foil to create a
scupper to drain the oil. Nevertheless some of the oil got around
the scupper and ran down onto the structures below. I will be much
more careful in the future to tape a larger aluminum foil scupper in
place below the drain plug to prevent any residual oil from getting
on the bottom paint.

Hope this helps,

Gary Silver

Liahona