thanks,Eric. both oil level and colour are fine.Ian

From: eric <kimberlite@optonline.net>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Coolant loss in Volvo
Date: Sat, 09 Dec 2006 19:36:14 -0500

Ian,

Has your crank case oil level gone up?

If it hasn't I guess you did have an airlock (probably in the water heater-
heat exchanger)

Fair Winds,

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ian & Judy Jenkins
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [spam] [Amel Yacht Owners] Coolant loss in Volvo



We have just had a curious experience with our coolant levels. Our engine is

6 years old with about 2,000 hours. Very reliable. Last May I drained all
the coolant and filled up with fresh antifreeze, carefully following the
instructions to open the bleed nut till the coolant overflowed it etc.The
boat was then ashore till November. The coolant level remained the same.( In

my experience the coolant has never needed topping up ).
When we first used the boat this November I found thtat after about 12 hours

it needed almost a litre of coolant to be added to bring it up to the
correct level. As there was no evidence at all of a leak I surmised that
there might have been an airlock. However, this happened again about 12
hours later, though to a lesser extent ( maybe one third of a litre). Since
then we have run for about 20 hours ( mainly at low revs but also flat out
for about 30 minutes) and have suffered no losss at all.
A Volvo mechanic I spoke to in the UK told me that it was probably one of
the O rings that was`allowing the coolant to escape into the exhaust water,
hence no trace in the engine room.Try as I may to read the exploded diagram
in the parts manual and the workshop manual to fit his diagnosis I cant see
how a perished O ring would allow what he claims.From what I can see, if an
O ring went , either coolant or sea water would appear on or under the
engine, but they wouldnt mix.
My view is that the engine probably did have an airlock when I refilled
with fresh coolant and that this took a couple of goes to work its way out
of the system. My Nordahavn friend, who has a Lugger engine , tells me that
he has had a very similar experience, having to top up three times after a
change of coolant.
I would be interested to hear if anyone else has had a similar experience.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Mar del Plata, Argentina

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TDS meters can be sourced through the web sites in my message No 2254.
The cheap model which I bought needs a little care before fitting as
they are calibrated, if I understand the instructions correctly, with
the sensing probes pushed all the way in. The problem with this is
that the correct angle to the flow is shown by two dots, one on the
fitting and one on the sensor probe and when pushed all the way in
this dot vanishes.
The solution is to use a marker pen to put a line above the dot on the
probe and another on the fitting so that it is easy to get it right.

Good luck with it, John Hollamby, SM 319

Hi i am cpt Nick.
In st.Johns Antigua ther is a U.K. P@I club That probably can help you.
PHILLIPS ,PHILLIPS @ ARCHIBALD
PO Box546, st Marys street, st John's

tel : 1 268 4620077
email :awarchibald@hotmail.com

after hours : William Archibald tel .1 268 4613 604

rgds
cpt .Nick

Hallo I am Nick and owner of a kirk i am master mariner and sailing atanker at the moment in north sea ,I suggest what we use in the ships ,a heavy duty one as follows.
A good coating of a well known company is INTERNATIONAL : INTERLINE 850 (WHITE OR BUFF) PRODUCT CODE:TLA 850/A
Surface preperation :sand paper or grinding ,cleaning.
Dry film thikness (dft 125 microns about two coatings with roller),touch dry at 25deg C 5 hrs ,overcoating at same temp. min 8hrs max 30 days
Thinner GTA 420.
To avoid unpleasent odors in the water later let it dy well.

rgds
cpt.Nick

We bought the Film-Tec membranes from Air, Water & Ice in FL; think the
cost was about $179 each. TDS meter was about $40 but don't remember
name of company. I think Gary Silver made a posting on this group site
about the Film-Tec membranes. You could try searching for that.

BTW, the first few seconds of product water tests at TDS levels
exceeding 4,000, even with our new membranes. We discard the product
water until it tests about 150 before adding any to our tank. This can
take 5 to 10 minutes before acceptable water is produced.

Judy
S/V Security
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, michael grunstein
<mgrunstein2002@...> wrote:

The watermaker performance on my boat seems to be like
yours before you replaced the membranes. My watermaker
is the Dessalator D60, and I am interested to know
where you bought the membranes, the TDS meter and
their cost.
Thank you,

Michael Grunstein, S/V Yonita #345

Anybody know/can recommend a marine surveyor in Antigua, BWI? My boat has reached the
magic age off 5 years and the insurance company demands a survey.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
wrote:

We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)

A few years ago while in Martinique, I had my fuel tank ( on my other
boat) redone by a worker who was using as finishing coat, a white
epoxy finishing resin (it looks like gel coat, but it is air cured),
which he stated was also used to refinish repaired water tanks in
French charter catamarans which often have cracks after a Atlantic
crossing. I was advised this resin is commonly used to finish water
tanks in new boats. The epoxy finishing resins seems to be readily
available in Martinique from fiberglass and resin suppliers... If
necessary I could find the tel no of a friend (Dominique Rousselot)
who is a Marine Surveyor in Martinique, who possibly could give you
the name of the product. I am presently in Andalousia, Spain,
preparing for a crossing, i would have to look up for Dominique's tel
no.

Serge

Mango #51

We have just had a curious experience with our coolant levels. Our engine is 6 years old with about 2,000 hours. Very reliable. Last May I drained all the coolant and filled up with fresh antifreeze, carefully following the instructions to open the bleed nut till the coolant overflowed it etc.The boat was then ashore till November. The coolant level remained the same.( In my experience the coolant has never needed topping up ).
When we first used the boat this November I found thtat after about 12 hours it needed almost a litre of coolant to be added to bring it up to the correct level. As there was no evidence at all of a leak I surmised that there might have been an airlock. However, this happened again about 12 hours later, though to a lesser extent ( maybe one third of a litre). Since then we have run for about 20 hours ( mainly at low revs but also flat out for about 30 minutes) and have suffered no losss at all.
A Volvo mechanic I spoke to in the UK told me that it was probably one of the O rings that was`allowing the coolant to escape into the exhaust water, hence no trace in the engine room.Try as I may to read the exploded diagram in the parts manual and the workshop manual to fit his diagnosis I cant see how a perished O ring would allow what he claims.From what I can see, if an O ring went , either coolant or sea water would appear on or under the engine, but they wouldnt mix.
My view is that the engine probably did have an airlock when I refilled with fresh coolant and that this took a couple of goes to work its way out of the system. My Nordahavn friend, who has a Lugger engine , tells me that he has had a very similar experience, having to top up three times after a change of coolant.
I would be interested to hear if anyone else has had a similar experience.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Mar del Plata, Argentina

_________________________________________________________________
Find Singles In Your Area Now With Match.com! msnuk.match.com

Thanks to Mike and Judy for their comments.We are going to follow the the 1200 level that Mike suggests. Interestingly a neighbour here in Argentina on a Nordhavn 46 ( very smart ocean crossing motor boat) , a guy who is a boat builder himself, tells me that his water maker ( same membranes as Dessalator and everyone else) is designed to transfer to his tank any water under 1900 TDS, so it sems that the w/m manufacturers are undecided amongst themselves
I use a portable TDS meter and have the 60 lph w-maker with a tap on the panel in the galley.Having run the w/m a lot over the past week I am now struggling to get below 2000. I suspect that the membranes are shot but as a final attempt I am going to use the acid/detergent wash that is referred to in the dessalaotor handbook ( but without any details). My neighbour has all the necessary liquids so I am going to give it a go. I will report on progress.Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen,SM 302, Mar del Plata

From: "Judy" <sailingjudy@gmail.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TDS levels
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 21:01:38 -0000

When and where are you taking these TDS readings? Water with
readings that high are not considered safe for human consumption. I
may be wrong, but I believe that the WHO limit is 500 and the US
standard is 300. We were getting readings of 480-495 when we stopped
using the watermaker and went to bottled water until we could obtain
replacement membranes. After replacing the membranes we get TDS
readings ranging from 97 to 160, which is very good.

Your boat may or may not have come equipped with an easily accessible
test faucet; ours did not. We installed a separate faucet at the
galley sink and diversion valves that allow us to divert the product
water into the sink until it tests and TASTES good. Then we turn the
valve and fill the water tank. We also installed another water
filter between the tank and the new faucet. We use that faucet for
our drinking water when not making water. See our photos on this
website.

Judy Rouse
S/V Security
Amel SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Old subject, new info sought. I have the 60 lph watermaker which

over 6

years has delivered over 70,000 litres.( Getting on for 1500 hours)

However,

armed with my new portable TDS meter I see that the water it is

now

producing has a TDS reading of 1270. You can just distinguish the

taste

against bottled water.
For comparison, the Dessalator manual says that sea water

typically has

36,000 TDS and that the watermaker should turn out water at 500

TDS. ( it

talks of filtering the water to 2%, although strictly 2% would be

closer to

720 TDS) .Our shore tap water is about 112, same as bottled water.
We cannot change our membranes until the end of the season ( we

are

cruising in Argentina and Southern Chile again) so these questions

arise:

Assuming we continue to get a reading of about 1270 ( ie about 3.6%

residue

rather than 2%)
1. What are the safe levels for drinking the water by itself? (It

tastes

ok at the moment and I ususlly mix it 50-50 with fruit juice)
2. Should there be any doubts that for all other purposes this

level is

OK? I have no reason to think that for cooking and showering this

level is

easily refined enough and I would be surprised if it was at all

troubling to

the washing machine or dishwasher. However, I would be interested

in anyone

elses view.
3. Assuming that there are no problems at the present level of

1270 TDS,

what level would be a cause of concern for drinking?
Thankfully where we are going the heavens deliver ample supplies

of water

so we have no real concerns in the short term. I am sure I can

remember how

to rig up a water catchment system.
As always,any views on the subject would be most welcome.
Fair winds and lotsa rain, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM

302,

Argentina

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The watermaker performance on my boat seems to be like
yours before you replaced the membranes. My watermaker
is the Dessalator D60, and I am interested to know
where you bought the membranes, the TDS meter and
their cost.
Thank you,

Michael Grunstein, S/V Yonita #345



--- Judy <sailingjudy@gmail.com> wrote:

When and where are you taking these TDS readings?
Water with
readings that high are not considered safe for human
consumption. I
may be wrong, but I believe that the WHO limit is
500 and the US
standard is 300. We were getting readings of
480-495 when we stopped
using the watermaker and went to bottled water until
we could obtain
replacement membranes. After replacing the
membranes we get TDS
readings ranging from 97 to 160, which is very good.

Your boat may or may not have come equipped with an
easily accessible
test faucet; ours did not. We installed a separate
faucet at the
galley sink and diversion valves that allow us to
divert the product
water into the sink until it tests and TASTES good.
Then we turn the
valve and fill the water tank. We also installed
another water
filter between the tank and the new faucet. We use
that faucet for
our drinking water when not making water. See our
photos on this
website.

Judy Rouse
S/V Security
Amel SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy
Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Old subject, new info sought. I have the 60 lph

watermaker which
over 6

years has delivered over 70,000 litres.( Getting

on for 1500 hours)
However,

armed with my new portable TDS meter I see that

the water it is
now

producing has a TDS reading of 1270. You can just

distinguish the
taste

against bottled water.
For comparison, the Dessalator manual says that

sea water
typically has

36,000 TDS and that the watermaker should turn out

water at 500
TDS. ( it

talks of filtering the water to 2%, although

strictly 2% would be
closer to

720 TDS) .Our shore tap water is about 112, same

as bottled water.

We cannot change our membranes until the end of

the season ( we
are

cruising in Argentina and Southern Chile again) so

these questions
arise:

Assuming we continue to get a reading of about

1270 ( ie about 3.6%
residue

rather than 2%)
1. What are the safe levels for drinking the

water by itself? (It
tastes

ok at the moment and I ususlly mix it 50-50 with

fruit juice)

2. Should there be any doubts that for all other

purposes this
level is

OK? I have no reason to think that for cooking and

showering this
level is

easily refined enough and I would be surprised if

it was at all
troubling to

the washing machine or dishwasher. However, I

would be interested
in anyone

elses view.
3. Assuming that there are no problems at the

present level of
1270 TDS,

what level would be a cause of concern for

drinking?

Thankfully where we are going the heavens

deliver ample supplies
of water

so we have no real concerns in the short term. I

am sure I can
remember how

to rig up a water catchment system.
As always,any views on the subject would be

most welcome.

Fair winds and lotsa rain, Ian and Judy,

Pen Azen, SM
302,

Argentina

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Congratulations Peter:

I saw Joel's 54 at the Annapolis Boat Show. It is a beautiful boat and Amel/Joel
have done an excellent job of improving the boat over the 53, which I think we
all agree is a spectacular boat.

Just one suggestion. Get a watermaker made by someone other than Dessalator
if possible. My understanding is that the current version of the Dessalator
watermaker still doesn't have a functional salinity testing system except for a
tap to taste the water manually. Thus, if your membranes fail half way through
a 2 hour water making session you will put an hours worth off sea water into
your fresh water tank EVEN if you took the precaution of tasting the water at
the start of production.

Now, short of the non-forthrightness of Dessalator on this issue, another way
you can tackle this problem is to install an electronic-in-line-continuous salinity
meter with and audio/visual alarm so that the minute salt water starts going
into you tanks you will know it and be able to preserve your fresh water supply.

If you wonder how I know this see my previous many posts on this issue as I
tried to uncover the deceit that Dessalator practiced on Amel and those of
us who purchased Amels by installing a sham salinity testing circuit.

Regards,

Gary Silver Amel SM 335

We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)

Ian,

Has your crank case oil level gone up?

If it hasn't I guess you did have an airlock (probably in the water heater-
heat exchanger)

Fair Winds,

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ian & Judy Jenkins
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [spam] [Amel Yacht Owners] Coolant loss in Volvo



We have just had a curious experience with our coolant levels. Our engine is

6 years old with about 2,000 hours. Very reliable. Last May I drained all
the coolant and filled up with fresh antifreeze, carefully following the
instructions to open the bleed nut till the coolant overflowed it etc.The
boat was then ashore till November. The coolant level remained the same.( In

my experience the coolant has never needed topping up ).
When we first used the boat this November I found thtat after about 12 hours

it needed almost a litre of coolant to be added to bring it up to the
correct level. As there was no evidence at all of a leak I surmised that
there might have been an airlock. However, this happened again about 12
hours later, though to a lesser extent ( maybe one third of a litre). Since
then we have run for about 20 hours ( mainly at low revs but also flat out
for about 30 minutes) and have suffered no losss at all.
A Volvo mechanic I spoke to in the UK told me that it was probably one of
the O rings that was`allowing the coolant to escape into the exhaust water,
hence no trace in the engine room.Try as I may to read the exploded diagram
in the parts manual and the workshop manual to fit his diagnosis I cant see
how a perished O ring would allow what he claims.From what I can see, if an
O ring went , either coolant or sea water would appear on or under the
engine, but they wouldnt mix.
My view is that the engine probably did have an airlock when I refilled
with fresh coolant and that this took a couple of goes to work its way out
of the system. My Nordahavn friend, who has a Lugger engine , tells me that
he has had a very similar experience, having to top up three times after a
change of coolant.
I would be interested to hear if anyone else has had a similar experience.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Mar del Plata, Argentina

__________________________________________________________
Find Singles In Your Area Now With Match.com! msnuk.match.com

FROM: LADY DIVINA, SM317

DOES ANYONE HAVE THEIR SUPER MARAMU, YEAR 2000 - 2004, DOCKED IN SAN
FRANCISCO or LOS ANGELES?? LADY DIVINA, SM 317, WOULD GREATLY
APPRECIATE HELP WITH A TECHNICAL MEASUREMENT PROBLEM.
THANKS, LADY DIVINA, SM 317, CRUIZING THE SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN

Hi,

I'm looking for a windvane on my Amel Kirk, but don't know which type
is suitable. So far I've seen a Kirk with a Pacific windvane, but
there must be others out there. Any report or experience is much
appreciated.

Kind regards, Bart.

Hello Peter,
Lucky you. I have no idea what the options are but when I went down to
check my boat Bali Hai today I found the a 54 Amadou has just been
moored on the same pontoon and I noticed that the gangplank was
designed to swing around and vanish into a "letterbox". However
because the rope handrail and folding stanchions were not folded the
gangplank could not close the last thirty degrees which looked a bit
unseamanlike.
The reason for this is that the stanchions etc are mounted on the
portside of the plank whereas it would appear that if they were on the
starboard side the plank would vanish.
I suppose there is some reason why the transom still only has a
moveable centre stanchion instead of half the gap being with fixed
stachion and lifelines so that there is space to mount a cradle for
the liferaft?

Just a thought in envy, John SM319

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:

In reference to the antirotation arms on the swivel at the head of the
jib. Should those arms point forward or aft? Thanks Peter
Pappas "Callisto" sm369

Hello Peter,
They should point aft and it is very important that the ballooner
halyard is in their V because otherwise it will have a foul lead and
will chafe/break causing the balooner or you, if you are using it to
go up the mast, to come down the very quick way.

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319

In reference to the antirotation arms on the swivel at the head of the
jib. Should those arms point forward or aft? Thanks Peter
Pappas "Callisto" sm369

Hi, I am the owner of a SM 2000 No 403 "Asolare", and I have been
absolutly delighted with her for the 3 1/2 years I have owned her.
I have a new Amel 54 being delivered in June 2007 when I will sell my
SM. My question is to Amel 54 owners as I would very much like to have
thier recommendations as to the selection of the miriad of options
available. I know this is a very "open" question but I would like to
know of options that owners have found very useful, those that are not
on the options list (bearing mind that Amel, of course, make the
perfect yacht!) and perhaps those that have not lived up to
expectations!
Thank you in anticipation of your kind comments,
Peter Turner

When and where are you taking these TDS readings? Water with
readings that high are not considered safe for human consumption. I
may be wrong, but I believe that the WHO limit is 500 and the US
standard is 300. We were getting readings of 480-495 when we stopped
using the watermaker and went to bottled water until we could obtain
replacement membranes. After replacing the membranes we get TDS
readings ranging from 97 to 160, which is very good.

Your boat may or may not have come equipped with an easily accessible
test faucet; ours did not. We installed a separate faucet at the
galley sink and diversion valves that allow us to divert the product
water into the sink until it tests and TASTES good. Then we turn the
valve and fill the water tank. We also installed another water
filter between the tank and the new faucet. We use that faucet for
our drinking water when not making water. See our photos on this
website.

Judy Rouse
S/V Security
Amel SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Old subject, new info sought. I have the 60 lph watermaker which

over 6

years has delivered over 70,000 litres.( Getting on for 1500 hours)

However,

armed with my new portable TDS meter I see that the water it is

now

producing has a TDS reading of 1270. You can just distinguish the

taste

against bottled water.
For comparison, the Dessalator manual says that sea water

typically has

36,000 TDS and that the watermaker should turn out water at 500

TDS. ( it

talks of filtering the water to 2%, although strictly 2% would be

closer to

720 TDS) .Our shore tap water is about 112, same as bottled water.
We cannot change our membranes until the end of the season ( we

are

cruising in Argentina and Southern Chile again) so these questions

arise:

Assuming we continue to get a reading of about 1270 ( ie about 3.6%

residue

rather than 2%)
1. What are the safe levels for drinking the water by itself? (It

tastes

ok at the moment and I ususlly mix it 50-50 with fruit juice)
2. Should there be any doubts that for all other purposes this

level is

OK? I have no reason to think that for cooking and showering this

level is

easily refined enough and I would be surprised if it was at all

troubling to

the washing machine or dishwasher. However, I would be interested

in anyone

elses view.
3. Assuming that there are no problems at the present level of

1270 TDS,

what level would be a cause of concern for drinking?
Thankfully where we are going the heavens deliver ample supplies

of water

so we have no real concerns in the short term. I am sure I can

remember how

to rig up a water catchment system.
As always,any views on the subject would be most welcome.
Fair winds and lotsa rain, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM

302,

Argentina

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live™ Messenger has arrived. Click here to download it for

free!

http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/?locale=en-gb