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Re: Puerto Williams
Mark Pitt
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Williams? fair winds,Eric: Club de Yates Micalvi (tel. 61/621020) Regards, Mark Pitt S/V Sabbatical III (ASM#419)
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Re: Puerto Williams
Mark Pitt
Eric:
Aweb search yields this: Club de Yates Micalvi (tel. 61/621020) Regards, Mark Pitt, ASM S/V Sabbatical III (#419) --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote: Williams? fair winds,
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Puerto Williams
eric freedman
Does anyone know of a way to contact the "yacht club" in Puerto Williams?
fair winds, eric
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Re: i still can't find the vents for the holding tank
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
The vents for the holding tanks on my SM (Hull # 335) are part of the
deck fitting for the holding tanks. If you look at the aft portion of the deck fitting you will see that is composed of a black plastic spacer and the metal threaded cap. Look at the aft side of the plastic spacer and you will see two holes drilled horizontally that face aft. This is the vent. The vent is at the top of the tank (literally). If you remove the cap labeled "WC" you will see that there is a standpipe welded to the inside of the metal cap assembly. This standpipe ends near the bottom of the holding tank. Thus when doing a pump out and suction is applied at the holding tank deck fitting it draws the black water from the bottom of the tank while air enters at the top of the tank through the vent openings. The vent opening also acts as an over- flow for the holding tanks. If you overfill your holding tanks the black water will come out of the vents and run down the deck. Don't ask me how I know this. Regards, Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull #335 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "eric freedman" <kimberlite@...> wrote:
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i still can't find the vents for the holding tank
eric freedman
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
though the upper part of the hull near the tank and will probably have ametal shield covering the outlet.Service. used cars online search now
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos
eric freedman
Gary,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thanks for the info. Where is your boat now? We are in St Martin. Fair Winds, Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 12:24 AM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote: 24 Feb 2006Eric: I purchased 3/8 inch quick connect fittings at Home Depot (white plastic, push together fitting that are good to 100 psi) and cut the blue 10 mm product water line. There is virtually no pressure on this line . The sensor for the EC system that I mentioned previously plumbs into a 1/2 in pipe thread fitting. I bought a 1/2 inch PVC pipe "T" fitting, and plumbed it with the quick connects. So the sensor is just immersed in the product water as it flows by. I'll post photos after my next trip. I took 220 volt 50 Hertz Power from the circuit breaker for the water maker. I have noticed that upon startup the EC briefly goes to somewhere above 2000 microsiemens but then within 30 seconds it comes down to about 350. If you run the watermaker below green range pressure the EC is actually higher than if run in the normal operating range. I don't quite understand that but it is consistent. I inquired of the Wafer Fire and Ice people that I bought my membranes from and they tell me that this is normal. They call it TDS creep. Evidently when the system is shut down the high TDS on the sea water side draws the product water back across the membrane by osmotic pressure. This then concentrates the solulte in the product water side as more and more water is drawn back across the membranes. The longer the system sits idle the more TDS creep there is. So the initial minute or two of product water will be high in TDS (EC). Perhaps that is why the Dessalator system had a timer. I have spent hours corresponding with Dessalator and they will not provide me with schematics or a logic diagram for the system. I plan to take detail digital photos of the circuit boards next month when I get on the boat and reverse engineer the electronics. It doesn't appear to be that complicated. Dessalator says that they do have spare logic circuit boards for sale and will install one if I ship my system to them but they at the same time make no guarantees that the system will behave as advertised even with a new board installed. This is about the goofiest company policy that I have ever run across. Regards, Gary Gary, Yahoo! Groups Links
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
24 Feb 2006Eric: I purchased 3/8 inch quick connect fittings at Home Depot (white plastic, push together fitting that are good to 100 psi) and cut the blue 10 mm product water line. There is virtually no pressure on this line . The sensor for the EC system that I mentioned previously plumbs into a 1/2 in pipe thread fitting. I bought a 1/2 inch PVC pipe "T" fitting, and plumbed it with the quick connects. So the sensor is just immersed in the product water as it flows by. I'll post photos after my next trip. I took 220 volt 50 Hertz Power from the circuit breaker for the water maker. I have noticed that upon startup the EC briefly goes to somewhere above 2000 microsiemens but then within 30 seconds it comes down to about 350. If you run the watermaker below green range pressure the EC is actually higher than if run in the normal operating range. I don't quite understand that but it is consistent. I inquired of the Wafer Fire and Ice people that I bought my membranes from and they tell me that this is normal. They call it TDS creep. Evidently when the system is shut down the high TDS on the sea water side draws the product water back across the membrane by osmotic pressure. This then concentrates the solulte in the product water side as more and more water is drawn back across the membranes. The longer the system sits idle the more TDS creep there is. So the initial minute or two of product water will be high in TDS (EC). Perhaps that is why the Dessalator system had a timer. I have spent hours corresponding with Dessalator and they will not provide me with schematics or a logic diagram for the system. I plan to take detail digital photos of the circuit boards next month when I get on the boat and reverse engineer the electronics. It doesn't appear to be that complicated. Dessalator says that they do have spare logic circuit boards for sale and will install one if I ship my system to them but they at the same time make no guarantees that the system will behave as advertised even with a new board installed. This is about the goofiest company policy that I have ever run across. Regards, Gary Gary,
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Follow up to 28 volt replacement lamp
amelforme
AMEL Owners Group:
Further to my last posting regarding the 28 volt replacement lamp for the foredeck light and the mizzen mounted cockpit light, G. E. makes both a spot lamp (clear, non-fluted lens, more like a driving lamp on high beam) which is #4505 and a fluted/diffused lens type (spreads the light out more than a spot lamp) which is #4593. Additionally, WAGNER makes (more likely sells a lamp from another manufacturer) a 28 volt fluted lamp that is, confusingly, a #4505 in their catalog. I use the spot type on the main mast (more light to the actual deck area) and the diffused lamp for the cockpit. Seems to work well. Hope this helps. All the best, Joel F. Potter, AMEL 54 - HOLLIS, Hull #14
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos
eric freedman
Gary,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
How did you hook the salinity sensor into the watermaker output? Fair Winds, Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 6:20 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos 15 Feb 2006 Hi all: I just completed installation of new FilmTec SW30-2540 membranes ($177.00 each from Air, Water, and Ice, Inc.) in my water maker. Not a difficult job one accomplished. Hardest part was getting the end caps off. I have detailed the process in some Photos that I just uploaded. My end caps were all ok, the O-rings were all ok, there was some moderate corrosion of the stainless interconnect thimble, and a defect in the brine seal of one of the membranes. However, I believe the failure mode was the membrane material themselves. Output is good, my new Omega EC monitor (220 volt wired to the desalinator breaker) is working great. The Dessalator salinity sensor does not work at all despite testing it three ways from Sunday with various scenarios. I am still trying to get some answers from Rod Boreham and Dessalator. I have spent a couple of hours on the phone with Rod and a couple of calls to Dessalator plus about 20 emails back and forth. I will let you all know more when I know more. In the mean time, I would not run my Dessalator watermaker without backup continuous monitoring of the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) or EC (Electrical Conductivity). Until we know more there is just no guarantee that the Dessalator sensor will divert bad quality water during an operational cycle, thus filling your fresh water tank with salt water. Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 2000 Hull # 335 Yahoo! Groups Links
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Fuel filter question
PFM53 <pfm53@...>
Hi all
I know many of you have added Racor fuel filter systems to your Super Maramus, and I am wondering which models you have found to be a good fit for the Amel. Our SM is a 95, with the Perkins engine. Thanks for any input you may have. Jerry PFM (#133)
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Re: Kirk for Sale
Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
Hello,
Can you please send some photos and info? My mail address is jose.luis.isasi@motorola.com Thanks. JL --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "syhanaleism" <syhanaleism@...> wrote:
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Kirk for Sale
syhanaleism <syhanaleism@...>
Amel Kirk, Year 1978, No. 229, one Swiss owner, sailed on Lake of
Constance, Teak deck, many extras, EU 35'000.--; please ask for the documentation.
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Re: Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement
John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
I had to replace the stop cock on the forward holding tank as the
old one seized up. The local chandlery sold replacements..in bronze as the original for about US$10 or in stainless for $50. It was difficult to cut the fibreglass around the bottom until I bought a couple of long Abrafiles from the local toolshop. These are made to be used in a hacksaw and are about three sixteenths of an inch in diameter and 10 inches long. Although not designed for this job they do bend enough to file through the fibreglass.I held the ends with bits of rag. I also replaced the plastic tubing with a new piece of Sanitary tubing. Good luck John SM 319 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "john martin" <symoondog@...> wrote: hard to turn off and on. The fiberglass around the valves on the holdingtanks seem to be more decorative then anything. Its above the water line soi'll just cut around the valve and take it out and put the new one in. If mywife says it looks ugly I'll wrap some wide white tape around it. If thefiberglass turns out to be structual and needs to be re- wraped I'll let youknow. John "Moondog" SM 248ReplacementFrom: "rossirossix4" <equinoxsolstice@...> beDate: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 19:15:40 -0000 itglassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like it's FREE!must_________________________________________________________________ http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement
john martin <symoondog@...>
Bob, I ordered new valves myself because the old ones are a little hard to turn off and on. The fiberglass around the valves on the holding tanks seem to be more decorative then anything. Its above the water line so i'll just cut around the valve and take it out and put the new one in. If my wife says it looks ugly I'll wrap some wide white tape around it. If the fiberglass turns out to be structual and needs to be re- wraped I'll let you know.
John "Moondog" SM 248 From: "rossirossix4" <equinoxsolstice@hotmail.com>_________________________________________________________________ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
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New Super Maramu Ballooner for sale
I have a spare brand new (hoisted a couple of times but not used)
Super Maramu Ballooner for sale. I'll sell for $1,200 plus actual UPS or Fedex shipping cost (only to US or Canada address, please). Condition 9.75 out of 10 scale. Check out close-up photo at: <a href="http://img52.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf10893lo.jpg"; target="_blank"><img src="http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9840/dscf10893lo.th.jpg"; border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a> or send me an email and I'll forward this high resolution photo to you, plus a couple more. Richard closereach@yahoo.com
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Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement
rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
Amel recommends replacing or rebuilding the "sea water valves" in
their maintenance schedule. In their owners manual they refer to these as "stop cocks". I obtained replacement stop cock valves for the engine sea water intake, fwd and aft head intake, and holding tank discharge from Amel and they sent the correct replacements which are 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" ball valves. However, I received no instructions for replacements and don't see this addressed anywhere. The engine and head intakes look fairly straight forward, but the holding tank discharge valve appears to be glassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like it must be cut or removed to replace the valve/ stop cock. These are for my 1993 Santorin, but should be similar or identical for the SMs during this period. Has anyone had experience with replacement of these valves? I would appreciate any advice you could give me. Also, is teflon tape or grease advisable in the replacement? Bob Rossi, "Brittany de la Mer" #86. Maint schedule is posted at http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EKT4QzUYDn- WiJLZppAxC9lqQ1hYSIwyk1hCYdOdB4hdjZEm2CkUB- _xcSDjtbz7RnSpGlGbYND4eH6VGCFc1SBwPg578N3Xnbg/maintenence% 20schedule.pdf
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Re: Water maker power draw
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:
Ed and others:I had similar trouble with my 160 l/hr watermater on SM # 335. This behavior began about 6 months after it was new (about the time we set off across the Atlantic). The 20 amp breaker would trip intermittently and periodically just as yours did. This problem continued intermittently until recently when it became more frequent. So I checked the current draw at the 220 volt breaker panel in the galley by using a clamp type AC ammeter and with the high pressure pump running under load. The draw was only 13.5 amps. The breaker is a 20 amp breaker. Normally inductive motor start up loads are high and you would expect the trip to occur with HP pump motor start, but this has not been my experience. The trip would happen seemingly randomly and unrelated to load or start. I didn't have a replacement breaker so I adjusted the existing breaker. This is done by turning the red painted "set" screw on the back of the breaker slightly. I turned mine each 1/8th turn. This tensions a spring inside the breaker and raises the tension that must be developed on the bi-metallic conductive strip in the breaker that causes a trip when load exceeds the "breaker size" limit. Of course I no longer know what the actual trip value of this breaker is. I intend to replace it with a 25 amp breaker as soon as possible. Note that 13.5 amps is probably not the total current draw for the desalinator. The circuit box on the back of the watermaker control panel has a 25 amp breaker labeled "HP" presumably for the HP pump, and also a 6 amp breaker labeled "BP" which I presume is the "Brine Pump" or low pressure feed pump. I will take some more measurements next time I am on the boat to verify this. I am trying to get a copy of the schematic and logic diagrams for the water maker from Dessalator. So far they have only offered to supplly an installation wiring diagram. I am prepared to reverse engineer this system to get to the bottom of these questions. Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona
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Battery Charger
Ag Av8ter
Hello fellow members,
We are the new owners of SM266. Question, I run the generator (we are on the hook in the BVI) and the green light comes on, on the 220V panel. I deperess the breaker to turn on the battery charger, but the charger does not charge the batteries. Is the another breaker that I am not finding? On the charger a Nemo 50 amp. the yellow light stays on and the green light flickers on and off. I have a multimeter, but am not very familar with electricity or trouble shooting.... so I am not sure where to "read" to see the chargers output. Any Ideas?? Thank you.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin
David Wallace
Joe,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Craig's advice is spot on, we follow the same approach. I use a relatively inexpensive (~$80) magnifying loupe to inspect the fittings -- you need somehting like that to be able to see a very small crack that might form, but don't need anything else. Last year I found one lower swage fitting with that type of crack and replaced that piece of rigging, but the rest was fine. Our rigging is 18 years old so I will probably replace the rest before we take off cruising again, but the rigger who inspected our boat two years ago did not advocate replacing the rigging just based on a timeline. Dave Wallace s/v Air Ops -- Maramu -- 1982
From: "Craig & Katherine" <sangaris@aol.com>
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[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin
Joe,
Robin's repy points out quite clearly the "mysticism" of rigging lifespan. Too many factors impinge - many years in the tropics - bad; many heavy weather sails - bad; a berth with a "jerky" chop - bad; and so on. So the insurance companies, as Robin suggests, sometimes step in with their own arbitrary criteria - no doubt very conservative. Or, for "peace of mind", as Robin says, we replace it anyway. My take is to inspect your rigging yourself every year - you'll spot any swage cracks or other problems quite easily and can take the appropriate action. You're always vulernable to what the product reliability folks call "infant mortality", where the brand new fitting fails, but that's quite unlikely (I used to calculate that stuff!). Before our transatlantic in 2004 I inspected our 1992 rigging and found it to be perfect. The "admiral" (my wife, Katherine) wanted a "second opinion" so we hired a well respected rigger to take a second look - a reasonably priced safety check - and he agreed it was fine. So 14 years works for us - I suspect we'll easily go 20. BUT - you're on your own on this one - there's no "magic" number. Best regards, Craig and Katherine Briggs s/v Sangaris - Santorin #68 - 1992 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...> wrote: rigging failure after 10 years unless it has been tested, others don't mind. For peace of mind we replaced ours after 14 years and it really looked in excellent condition. However you can have good looking stainless steel rigging which parts with no warning.... Robin Cooterrigging on a santorin. Thanks
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