Date   

Re: [Amel] Use of Micro with 220v 60 Hz?

eric freedman
 

I really do not understand what seems to be the problem with using a 50 amp
plug versus a European plug.

The European plug has a potential of 220 volts between the two hot legs
blue-brown. Since both plugs are alternating current there is NO return leg
on either plug as that only occurs on a DC installation.

I have been using my 50 amp plug as many other Amel users have for 7 years
without any problems or electrolysis.



If you use the Red and Black wires on a USA 50 amp socket you also get 220
volts. Both the USA and European plugs have a ground.

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jose
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 3:50 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Use of Micro with 220v 60 Hz?






Miles, I completly agree with your statement. In fact my boat has also an
alternative 110 V input that goes to a transformer to 220V and can be used
to run most of the house appliances.

The previous owner, and me up to now, have also been using the american 220
inlet in the form described by several people, that is witout a ground. I
will be changing things based on your suggestion.

Still, anybody has experience using the Micro, and two washers with 220V at
60Hz?

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Miles Bidwell" <mbidwell@...> wrote:

I have been following the discussion of wiring and I think that my
experience with this may be of interest to the group.

In Europe the three wires are one hot, one return, and one ground. The one
hot line carries the 240. In the US it is possible to get 220 by
connecting
two 110 wires and ignoring the ground and many (lucky?) people do this
without problems. When my boat was being built, I asked Amel about doing
this. Amel said that it should never be done because there would be no
ground wire. They even sent M. Carteau over to my boat to explain in great
detail why the US approach should never be attempted. As part of Carteau's
design, Amels have very sensitive ground fault sensors which depend on
having a ground wire.

To solve the current problem, Amel built my boat with two independent
electrical systems. The one for the US is 110 volts (with a ground wire)
that goes to a Hart charger and a 60 cycle 110 inverter. The European 220
50 cycle circuit with its ground wire has a separate charger. For the
appliances and European wall outlets, transformers convert 110 to 220 when
plugged in to US shore current. I know that this is much more complex than
simply connecting two hot wires in the US but the potential damage from a
fault and no ground wire could be even more complex to repair.



Miles Bidwell

SM 216 LADYBUG





Rép. : [Amel] Use of Micro with 220v 60 Hz?

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Jose,
 
I have used  my Siemens 220vac dishwasher on a 220vac 60Hz circuit generated by my transformer, as stated earlier, i only had a problem with the 220 avc 50Hz water pump, which i replaced with a 12vdc pump triggered by a 220 vac relay.
 
I used to operate my 110vac 60hz microwave oven connected to my transformer energized by either 220acv 50Hz or 60Hz, after 5 years it broke down and, as at the time i was in Spain, in 2007, i replaced it with a 220acv 50Hz which i have not yet used with a 110vac 60Hz shore supply. I did not check the cause of the old microwave brakedown because it originally cost less than 100$... and the new microwave is also a very usefull convection oven.

I intended to replace my 110acv 60Hz clothewasher with a new 220 acv 50hz machine, but this forum might change this intent.
 
Serge, Mango 51
 

Note: À VENDRE - FOR SALE
LAETITIA II
info: www.columbia37.com & www.laetitia-l.com

--- En date de : Mer, 25.11.09, Jose <jgvenegas@comcast.net> a écrit :


De: Jose <jgvenegas@comcast.net>
Objet: [Amel] Use of Micro with 220v 60 Hz?
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: mercredi 25 Novembre 2009, 15 h 50


 




Miles, I completly agree with your statement. In fact my boat has also an alternative 110 V input that goes to a transformer to 220V and can be used to run most of the house appliances.

The previous owner, and me up to now, have also been using the american 220 inlet in the form described by several people, that is witout a ground. I will be changing things based on your suggestion.

Still, anybody has experience using the Micro, and two washers with 220V at 60Hz?

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, "Miles Bidwell" <mbidwell@.. .> wrote:

I have been following the discussion of wiring and I think that my
experience with this may be of interest to the group.

In Europe the three wires are one hot, one return, and one ground. The one
hot line carries the 240. In the US it is possible to get 220 by connecting
two 110 wires and ignoring the ground and many (lucky?) people do this
without problems. When my boat was being built, I asked Amel about doing
this. Amel said that it should never be done because there would be no
ground wire. They even sent M. Carteau over to my boat to explain in great
detail why the US approach should never be attempted. As part of Carteau's
design, Amels have very sensitive ground fault sensors which depend on
having a ground wire.

To solve the current problem, Amel built my boat with two independent
electrical systems. The one for the US is 110 volts (with a ground wire)
that goes to a Hart charger and a 60 cycle 110 inverter. The European 220
50 cycle circuit with its ground wire has a separate charger. For the
appliances and European wall outlets, transformers convert 110 to 220 when
plugged in to US shore current. I know that this is much more complex than
simply connecting two hot wires in the US but the potential damage from a
fault and no ground wire could be even more complex to repair.



Miles Bidwell

SM 216 LADYBUG



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








Découvrez les photos les plus intéressantes du jour.
http://www.flickr.com/explore/interesting/7days/


Rép. : [Amel] Re: 110v ac connection

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Mr Bidwell,
 
I do not understand what you mean when you write:
<...transformers convert 110 to 220>
 
How many transformers are installed?
 
Are the transformers connected to the 110 acv 60 Hz line from shore or-and to the 'Hart' charger-inverter?
 
Are the 110 to 220 transformers then connected to the vessel's circuit? If so how are the transformers prevented from being energised when the boat is plugged to 220 acv 50Hz?
 
Did Amel provide you with a diagram of your electrical installation, as they normally do. If so it would be very interesting to for those living in 110 vac 60 hz look at it and, it would be most helpfull if you could post same on this forum.
 
Otherwise, i agree that wether 220  50Hz or 110 60Hz, the ground nust be connected to the boat's circuit, but preferably through a galvanic isolator, sometimes refered to as zinc savers.
 
On the other hand,  as for the 220 acv  50Hz faulty ground sensor i have seen on Amels, it is placed immediately after the main switch for the entry of the 220 acv, therefore does not affect circuits energised after the sensor. A faulty ground sensor is also par of the generator set, and a faulty ground only disconnects and stops the genset. 
 
Serge D. T. Mango 51


--- En date de : Mer, 25.11.09, Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@attglobal.net> a écrit :


De: Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@attglobal.net>
Objet: [Amel] Re: SHOWER HOSE
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: mercredi 25 Novembre 2009, 15 h 15


 



I have been following the discussion of wiring and I think that my
experience with this may be of interest to the group.

In Europe the three wires are one hot, one return, and one ground. The one
hot line carries the 240. In the US it is possible to get 220 by connecting
two 110 wires and ignoring the ground and many (lucky?) people do this
without problems. When my boat was being built, I asked Amel about doing
this. Amel said that it should never be done because there would be no
ground wire. They even sent M. Carteau over to my boat to explain in great
detail why the US approach should never be attempted. As part of Carteau's
design, Amels have very sensitive ground fault sensors which depend on
having a ground wire.

To solve the current problem, Amel built my boat with two independent
electrical systems. The one for the US is 110 volts (with a ground wire)
that goes to a Hart charger and a 60 cycle 110 inverter. The European 220
50 cycle circuit with its ground wire has a separate charger. For the
appliances and European wall outlets, transformers convert 110 to 220 when
plugged in to US shore current. I know that this is much more complex than
simply connecting two hot wires in the US but the potential damage from a
fault and no ground wire could be even more complex to repair.

Miles Bidwell

SM 216 LADYBUG











Offrez un compte Flickr Pro à vos amis et à votre famille.
http://www.flickr.com/gift/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Use of Micro with 220v 60 Hz?

Jose <jgvenegas@...>
 

Miles, I completly agree with your statement. In fact my boat has also an alternative 110 V input that goes to a transformer to 220V and can be used to run most of the house appliances.

The previous owner, and me up to now, have also been using the american 220 inlet in the form described by several people, that is witout a ground. I will be changing things based on your suggestion.

Still, anybody has experience using the Micro, and two washers with 220V at 60Hz?

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Miles Bidwell" <mbidwell@...> wrote:

I have been following the discussion of wiring and I think that my
experience with this may be of interest to the group.

In Europe the three wires are one hot, one return, and one ground. The one
hot line carries the 240. In the US it is possible to get 220 by connecting
two 110 wires and ignoring the ground and many (lucky?) people do this
without problems. When my boat was being built, I asked Amel about doing
this. Amel said that it should never be done because there would be no
ground wire. They even sent M. Carteau over to my boat to explain in great
detail why the US approach should never be attempted. As part of Carteau's
design, Amels have very sensitive ground fault sensors which depend on
having a ground wire.

To solve the current problem, Amel built my boat with two independent
electrical systems. The one for the US is 110 volts (with a ground wire)
that goes to a Hart charger and a 60 cycle 110 inverter. The European 220
50 cycle circuit with its ground wire has a separate charger. For the
appliances and European wall outlets, transformers convert 110 to 220 when
plugged in to US shore current. I know that this is much more complex than
simply connecting two hot wires in the US but the potential damage from a
fault and no ground wire could be even more complex to repair.



Miles Bidwell

SM 216 LADYBUG





Re: Trojan SCS225 Batteries - Will They Fit the Amel SM2000 Battery Box

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Gary

The Trojan 225 batteries should fit the SM 2000 just fine. I installed these batteries on my boat in Trinidad. The only modifications that I needed to make is the rmoval of the carrying straps on some of the batteries.

Vito
Wanderer
ASM 283
Bay of Islands NZ

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Can anyone verify that Trojan SCS225 batteries (with non-flush cell covers) fit the Amel SM2000 battery box. The overall dimensions are the same as the AC Delco 1150 batteries that Ray Eaton fitted as replacements for the original Amel installed batteries (i.e. Group 31 dimensions) but, I am concerned that the rail that is mounted to the bottom of the lid to the battery box may not fit BETWEEN the two sets of cell caps on this model of battery.

The SCS225 battery is the only one available to me in Antigua that is a group 31 battery. If anyone has experience with this specific battery your knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Alternatively, could someone aboard their boat with a hull number near mine, measure the width of the rail for me. Much appreciated.

Regards, Gary Silver Amel SM2000 Hull # 335 , On the hard in Antigua


Re: SHOWER HOSE

Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

I have been following the discussion of wiring and I think that my
experience with this may be of interest to the group.

In Europe the three wires are one hot, one return, and one ground. The one
hot line carries the 240. In the US it is possible to get 220 by connecting
two 110 wires and ignoring the ground and many (lucky?) people do this
without problems. When my boat was being built, I asked Amel about doing
this. Amel said that it should never be done because there would be no
ground wire. They even sent M. Carteau over to my boat to explain in great
detail why the US approach should never be attempted. As part of Carteau's
design, Amels have very sensitive ground fault sensors which depend on
having a ground wire.

To solve the current problem, Amel built my boat with two independent
electrical systems. The one for the US is 110 volts (with a ground wire)
that goes to a Hart charger and a 60 cycle 110 inverter. The European 220
50 cycle circuit with its ground wire has a separate charger. For the
appliances and European wall outlets, transformers convert 110 to 220 when
plugged in to US shore current. I know that this is much more complex than
simply connecting two hot wires in the US but the potential damage from a
fault and no ground wire could be even more complex to repair.



Miles Bidwell

SM 216 LADYBUG


Trojan SCS225 Batteries - Will They Fit the Amel SM2000 Battery Box

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Can anyone verify that Trojan SCS225 batteries (with non-flush cell covers) fit the Amel SM2000 battery box. The overall dimensions are the same as the AC Delco 1150 batteries that Ray Eaton fitted as replacements for the original Amel installed batteries (i.e. Group 31 dimensions) but, I am concerned that the rail that is mounted to the bottom of the lid to the battery box may not fit BETWEEN the two sets of cell caps on this model of battery.

The SCS225 battery is the only one available to me in Antigua that is a group 31 battery. If anyone has experience with this specific battery your knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Alternatively, could someone aboard their boat with a hull number near mine, measure the width of the rail for me. Much appreciated.

Regards, Gary Silver Amel SM2000 Hull # 335 , On the hard in Antigua


Re: [Amel] Re: SHOWER HOSE

Horst Pause <horst.puddleduck@...>
 

Thanks for that. Hoowever, it appears to me that the arrangement on an SM is different to that on the older Maramu. One end of the hose is the standard size, the other (the shower head end) is a smaller thread (that needs to fit/go through the hole in the wash basin.

Horst




________________________________
From: Jose Venegas <jgvenegas@comcast.net>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 24 November, 2009 19:42:30
Subject: [Amel] Re: SHOWER HOSE


Hi, I just changed our shower head for one bought at HomeDepot (a few bucks
for a fancy one) and it fitted perfectly the original shower hose. It must,
therefore be a standard thread.

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K 278
Hibernating at Constitution Marina, Boston







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Rép. : [Amel] Re: ac power

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

My 220 acv 50 Hz dishwasher runs well (after the correction indicated in a previous message) on 220 acv 60 Hz.
 
My experience is that at the same voltage, 50 Hz motors run a little faster on 60 Hz, they do get cooler, its the contrary for 60 Hz motors. I did have a problem with one 220 acv 50 Hz motor on a water pump.
 
The ferro resonant 220 vac 50 Hz battery charger on my Amel runs well on 220 vac 60 Hz  generated by a 220-110 ac transformer, but on my other boat (a Columbia) a110-220vac electronic charger purchased from Defender Industries in the US runs well either on 110 acv 60 Hz or 220 acv 50 Hz, requiring only to set up the voltage selector. On the Columbia, the battery charger is the only equipment plugged to 220 acv, in 220v 50 Hz countries,110 acv hand tools run thru a 12vdc-110 acv inverter.
 
A Amel owner visiting shortly a 110 acv 60 Hz area may find that purchasing a 15 to 30 amp 110 vac 60 Hz charger with an inexpensive electrical extension is the most economical, practical and safe way to plug into shore power.
 
Serge D. T. Mango 51
 
 
  

Note: À VENDRE - FOR SALE
LAETITIA II
info: www.columbia37.com & www.laetitia-l.com

--- En date de : Mar, 24.11.09, kimberlite@optonline.net <kimberlite@optonline.net> a écrit :


De: kimberlite@optonline.net <kimberlite@optonline.net>
Objet: [Amel] Re: ac power
À: kimberlite@optonline.net
Cc: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: mardi 24 Novembre 2009, 17 h 20


 



A ps. to my note.
The 50 amp outlets on US docks are single phase. I believe only the 440 volt outlets are three phase. You are correct about the microwave, washer dryer, and Dishwasher. 50 cycles only.
You should be using a 50 amp plug and not a 30 Amp plug , The neutral should NOT be used.
To prevent stray Current from damaging the boat I installed a galvanic Isolator on Kimberlite,
Eric

----- Original Message -----
From:
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 5:12 pm
Subject: ac power
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com,

There is no neutral on european power just two hot legs.
That is why you get 220 volts between the hot legs and the
ground as the ground and neutral are at the same potential.
When you hook up to US shore power you do not connect the
white(neutral to the boat)
On the 50 amp plug you hook the blue and brown to the red and
black and the green to the ground.
The white neutral is not used.
Fair winds
Eriv
SM 376 Kimberlite.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









Découvrez les photos les plus intéressantes du jour.
http://www.flickr.com/explore/interesting/7days/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ac power

eric freedman
 

A ps. to my note.
The 50 amp outlets on US docks are single phase. I believe only the 440 volt outlets are three phase. You are correct about the microwave, washer dryer, and Dishwasher. 50 cycles only.
You should be using a 50 amp plug and not a 30 Amp plug , The neutral should NOT be used.
To prevent stray Current from damaging the boat I installed a galvanic Isolator on Kimberlite,
Eric

----- Original Message -----
From:
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 5:12 pm
Subject: ac power
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,

There is no neutral on european power just two hot legs.
That is why you get 220 volts between the hot legs and the
ground as the ground and neutral are at the same potential.
When you hook up to US shore power you do not connect the
white(neutral to the boat)
On the 50 amp plug you hook the blue and brown to the red and
black and the green to the ground.
The white neutral is not used.
Fair winds
Eriv
SM 376 Kimberlite.


ac power

eric freedman
 

There is no neutral on european power just two hot legs.
That is why you get 220 volts between the hot legs and the ground as the ground and neutral are at the same potential.
When you hook up to US shore power you do not connect the white(neutral to the boat)
On the 50 amp plug you hook the blue and brown to the red and black and the green to the ground.
The white neutral is not used.
Fair winds
Eriv
SM 376 Kimberlite.


Shore power supplies - 220v and 110v

Jose Venegas <jgvenegas@...>
 

I have not tested it but I have been told that the Microwave, the Dish
Washer or the cloth washing drier SHOULD NOT be connected to shore power at
60 Hz even if it is 220V. The pervious owner told me his Microwave was
fried when a guest started it when connected to shore power!

All the rest, water heater, AC, and battery chargers work fine at 60 Hz.

Now, I am still puzzled about one detail that someone in this forum may have
an answer.
The european 240V and the power produced by the generator on board have 3
cables: one live, one neutral and one ground. When you measure the voltages
between them you have Live-neutral and Life to ground =240V, and
neutral-ground =0 volts.
In contrast, when connected to 220V us shore power, the readings from the
same terminals are: Live-neutral:220V, Life to ground 110V and neutral to
ground= 110V. This is because in the US we take the 220V shore power from a
3-phase AC supply where both Live and neutral have voltage relative to
ground.
My question is: does this difference and the fact that one does not have a
true neutral affect stray currents and electrolysis on the boat.

Jose

Ipanema SM2K 278
Hybernating at Constitution Marina
Charles Town, Massachusetts


Re: SHOWER HOSE

Jose Venegas <jgvenegas@...>
 

Hi, I just changed our shower head for one bought at HomeDepot (a few bucks
for a fancy one) and it fitted perfectly the original shower hose. It must,
therefore be a standard thread.

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K 278
Hibernating at Constitution Marina, Boston


Amel Santorin: misunderstanding in Hyeres for sandblasting and antifouling

Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...>
 

Hi everybody, this is my experience in doing maintenance works in Hyeres. I attch some photos separately (Album Sisila in this group).
I bought my Santorin last Winter in Cote d'Azur, the boat was idle in water since a couple of years.
I thought that for the first general revision it could be better to go to Hyeres (Amel Med), in spite of the advice of the broker (waste of money...).
All works done directly by Amel were of "first class": Amel labor force are of very high quality, even if, in spite of my request,  the manager said that davits for Santorin simply does not exist: after few months I informed him of the existence of  http://www.secteurblanc.com/en/(they are called "Boomerang", and they are the same used for Supermaramu -- but probably the stern transom must be reinforced and they are expensive, some 3.5kEuros).
But the simplest thing to be done was hull care: the survey revealed  in fact a state of abandon since several years, photos in Sisila Album (fig. 1 to 4).
After works in Hyeres (hull care was sub-contracted end of May 2009, fig. 5), we brought the boat to Genova, and then to Cagliari, Sardinia, during summer cruise.
When lifted in Cagliari, on November 2009 (after less than 6 months), the state of the hull was worse than in May, before Hyeres care (fig. 6 to 9).
After my complains with Hyeres (Amel Med), the answer  was:
........ every 5/7 years, it is normal to remove all of them and apply an epoxy coating and then a new antifouling.......
This is the difference between theory and practice! This was the reason why I went to Hyeres: to have the hull properly cared, and they did not.
Even if I did not specify it  in writing to the sub-contractor (I specified it to Amel in a email on 25/02/2009, but the order apparently did not pass),  good professionals should have suggested it, isn't it?
Maybe in Hyeres they are too busy, so the less, the better. Do not go there for your works on the boat, unless they are very Amel-specific.
Attilio&Maria
Amel Santorin #84 "Sisila"


[Amel] +Re:Safe Removal

Renos <trick2010@...>
 

Eric,
the little hole under your keyboard is for a key which you can use to open your safe, in case of a keyboard failure.

Torsten

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

The little hole under my keyboard I believe is for an dc power supply to
plug the safe in if the batteries are dead.

Fair Winds

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Rapp
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 12:05 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] +Re:Safe Removal





I have a German safe manufactured by Hartmann Tresore Model HS 605-3. My
electronic keyboard also failed recently. I have written to the manufacturer
inquiring about obtaining a new keyboard, or, failing that, there appears to
be a little keyhole under the keyboard, but I don't have the key. I have not
heard anything back from the manufacturer. Does anyone know anything about
this?
Thanks in advance
Jeffrey Rapp
s/v Antares
SM2k378

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Rép. : [Amel] Re: SHOWER HOSE & deck stripes

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Replaced both hoses ( about 1.5m between the faucets exit and the shower handle). The first one was purchased from Amel in Hyère, France, the second, after visiting a few hardware stores, from Leroy, Merlin, one of a european  large hardware store chain, in Alicante, Spain.
 
Normally water plumbing material thread from France is  similar to North America pipe thread, but i had to return the first hose purchased from the spanish hardware store and, on the spot, find one that had the same thread as the original hose.
I did not attempt to accurately establish the thread size.
 
There was not a notable difference between the price of the hose from Amel and Leroy. Merlin, but when i called Amel, the delivery service they insisted on using made it very expensive. I am sure that if a friend had purchased the hose for me from Amel and then mailed it as standard snail mail, it would have been, time wise, even more economical than finding the right one in a local store.
 
As for the deck stripes, in 2008, a friend purchased for me 250 ml of the stripe colored resin and 500 ml of ivory (Renault beige) colored resin for the deck from Amel in Larochelle France and transported it to the Caribean. The stripe color has withstood the caribean sun for one year but the deck ivory resin, which originally correctly matched the deck a day after application, has become darker and, unless i repaint the whole deck, my only hope for curing this cosmetic problem, is that the sun will fade the patches.
 
I was told i could purchase the colored resin from th Amel base in Guadeloupe, but never received an answer to two e-mails enquiries.
 
When i visited Amel's storage space in Hyère in 2005 in order to purchase a panel of standard varnished veneer, i saw small colored resin containers on the shelves. I guess, if Amel stands on using the most expensive (but not always most reliable) delivery service,  the problem a group like ours, with boat all over the world, should be able to solve is to find a reasonably priced French Freight Forwarder, if it exist! Some of us do not need express service or would be ready to pick up their Amel material from a freight wharehouse or a postal office.
 
Serge, Mango 51

 

De: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Objet: [Amel] Re: SHOWER HOSE
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: lundi 23 Novembre 2009, 22 h 18


 



Forgive me, but it is unclear to me from the posts which part of the shower hose
failed. Was it the hand set with the shower head, the hose portion, the head
mounting bracket/holder or a combination of these?

My hose section failed after several years and I was able to purchase a replacement
hose only at my local plumbing store for about $7.00 US. The fittings were standard
US threads (I think) as everything went together without effort.

My mounting bracket/holder failed at the plastic screws holes that held the
unit to the wall. I repaired this by potting some washers in structural adhesive
in the remaining bracket/holder.

Fortunately my head portion has not failed. I suspect that any hand held shower
head and hose will attache to the outlet of the mixing valve on the wall and will
be a direct replacement.

Regards, Gary Silver Amel SM2000 Hull # 335 "Liahona" Antigua









Devenez un meilleur amigo grâce à Yahoo! Courriel
http://cf.promos.yahoo.com/courriel/visiteguidee2/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: SHOWER HOSE

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Forgive me, but it is unclear to me from the posts which part of the shower hose
failed. Was it the hand set with the shower head, the hose portion, the head
mounting bracket/holder or a combination of these?

My hose section failed after several years and I was able to purchase a replacement
hose only at my local plumbing store for about $7.00 US. The fittings were standard
US threads (I think) as everything went together without effort.

My mounting bracket/holder failed at the plastic screws holes that held the
unit to the wall. I repaired this by potting some washers in structural adhesive
in the remaining bracket/holder.

Fortunately my head portion has not failed. I suspect that any hand held shower
head and hose will attache to the outlet of the mixing valve on the wall and will
be a direct replacement.

Regards, Gary Silver Amel SM2000 Hull # 335 "Liahona" Antigua


Re: Deck Striping update

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill:
You are correct in that this is not your problem. I was the one who originally
came up with and posted the bright idea of mixing the colors to give
the nice Hershey Chocolate color. My paint did the same thing but it took about
2 years and went through several stages. It first turned black then took on a
black green sheen. My Polytrol also failed within a year. It first turned somewhat
clear white, then looked like a fleece or someone's bad sunburn peeling off. It
eventually complete flaked off leaving the deck and stripes none the worse for
wear and tear. It sure did look nice for 6 months or so.

I am sorry that my idea and posting led you down this path. I thought I posted
something on the color change but I don't recall for sure. I know that red
pigments oxidize more quickly than other colors and I suspect the red
colored paint is the culprit. I am wondering about using colored gelcoat next
time I do my stripes.

I am currently just living with my black/green stripes and will be back on the boat
in about a week after being absent for the last 6 months. I will let you know
what color the stripes are now.

Best, Gary Silver Amel SM2000 Hull 335 "Liahona" Antigua

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

All,

We used Interlux Brightside single part polyurethane paint to re-stripe our deck. We bought a quart of red, a quart of green, and a quart of white. We mixed the colors until we had an exact match to the chocolate and applied the paint with a striping wheel. The paint dried and looked great for about 2 months in New Zealand sun. After several months, the paint began to turn from chocolate to green. It is now green!

We are not sure what went wrong, but wanted to let you know that we regret NOT getting the color professionally color-matched.

THE PROBLEM
I do not believe it was the paint: Interlux Brightside
I do not believe it was the mixer: me
And I am absolutely sure it was not the striper: Judy

I guess for the time being we will blame it on the Kiwi's!

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
currently Malaysia


Jabsco Mascerator Pump

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

All,

I recently posted a Web Site Enquiry at http://www.jabscoshop.com/feedback/

I complained that the last two Mascerator Pump replacements lasted less than one year and failed. The failure occurred because of some sort of reaction between the stainless blade, retaining nut and stainless motor shaft that deteriorated the threads on the motor shaft. This caused the nut to loosen.

I suspect the nut is not stainless where the other two parts are stainless. I uploaded a photo of the shaft and nut in the "Head Service" folder in the photo section of this site. You should be able to view it at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1980087538/pic/list

In the feedback form I asked for 2 replacements. Jabsco responded promptly and asked for the failed pumps' serial numbers. I had the serial numbers and also sent them a copy of the purchase receipt for the two failed pumps and a photo of the failed threads and suspect nut.

Jabsco shipped two new pumps at no charge and freight free.

I was pleasantly surprised.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
currently Malaysia


Deck Striping update

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

All,

We used Interlux Brightside single part polyurethane paint to re-stripe our deck. We bought a quart of red, a quart of green, and a quart of white. We mixed the colors until we had an exact match to the chocolate and applied the paint with a striping wheel. The paint dried and looked great for about 2 months in New Zealand sun. After several months, the paint began to turn from chocolate to green. It is now green!

We are not sure what went wrong, but wanted to let you know that we regret NOT getting the color professionally color-matched.

THE PROBLEM
I do not believe it was the paint: Interlux Brightside
I do not believe it was the mixer: me
And I am absolutely sure it was not the striper: Judy

I guess for the time being we will blame it on the Kiwi's!

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
currently Malaysia