Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watermaker filters
Ian Shepherd
Hi John & Anne,
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I am a bit confused as to your two sets of TDS readings. I have never seen anything as low as 100-200, but somewhere around 550 has been common in the past. I went to a seminar once in Georgetown Bahamas. The guest from from HRO water makers. He was asked the same question as you have. He said that anything up to 900 ppm was OK but if you were in the military, 1000 was allowed for limited periods. He said readings under 600 indicated that the system was functioning normally, though better could be expected when the membranes were new. Changing the subject John, I went to a chemist this morning in Larnaca to buy some medicine for my son in England. After being served, I stood at the counter for a while. The chemist looked up and said "Yes?" I said "I am waiting for my change". He told me that he had given me the change and sure enough it was in my pocket. I apologized and asked him if he sold pills for Altzheimers? He said "Yes, but the problem is that you have to remember to take the pills!" It creeps up on us John! Sorry I missed you in Turkey this summer. Regards Ian
-------Original Message-------
From: John and Anne on Bali Hai Date: 19/09/2007 15:33:12 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watermaker filters It may or may not be relevant but I replaced the saltwater filters recently using a 30 and a 3 micron filters. The 3 micron one was too much drag on flow and resulted in the reading on the top meter to fluctuate wildly from normal to very low and the sight tube was showing a continuous flow of bubbles which may perhaps have been air leaks past the end fittings or somewhere else. I changed the fine filter to a 5 micron one which solved the problem although my ppm meter now shows a reading of 580 instead of the previous figure of about 450. I do not know at what level one should worry. the 580 is about the same as tap water in Malta which is claimed to be safe. We have done a blind testing with bottled water and neither of us could tell which was which. When we collected the boat seven years ago Olivier told us not to bother with sterilising and so we never have without any untoward effects. The product water at 100 or 200ppm is so pure that it will not nourish pot plants and indeed we met a French boat in the South Pacific with a dozen people on board and it was their practice to add sea water to get some minerals into it. So we are not psychotic about ppms but wonder at which level bacteria can pass the membrane. Must go, time for a drink, regards, Anne and John SM319
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead
Ian Shepherd
Hi Gary,
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Thanks for your thoughts. I am careful with o-rings and do clean the groove thoroughly before smearing them with silicone grease. Amel say that Vaseline will do. Being petroleum based, I am not so sure. I certainly use silicone grease on all my diving seals. I know it's safer when in contact with high pressure air than grease. I would appreciate your thoughts on silicone versus Vaseline on 0-rings. What I have not previously done is to run a pick around under the seal. A good tip. I do however look at them carefully with a magnifying glass before pushing the bobbin back into the end cap. The latest failure had never been disturbed by me, being under the curved end cap bracket that carries the hose connection. There did appear to be some erosion of the lower seal in line with where the end cap material had been washed away. Whether this was from escaping water or a badly fitted seal is a matter of conjecture. I doubt if my HP gauge is poorly calibrated else the flow rate would be off the top of the sight tube. I adjust the pressure so that I achieve 160 l/h (in warm water). The needle is usually about one third up the green band on the HP gauge. Regards Ian
-------Original Message-------
From: amelliahona Date: 19/09/2007 04:28:14 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead Hi Ian: Thanks for your input. Regarding: "To be exact, yet another leaking end cap, this time at the hose connection end. Water had got pass the two 1.5mm x 9mm o-rings and eroded the nylon, creating a serious leak. This was my 5th end cap failure in just over 200 hours of operation! My end caps are white. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Amel say that it is very rare! I don't believe them." I am not sure why you are having such leakage problems. I have had no leaks from my end caps. My first set of end caps where white plastic (?nylon) (see photo's in the photo section where I am trying to remove the white end caps). They looked pristine when removed during the replacement of my membranes that failed at the 185 hour mark. I replaced the end caps anyway at the suggestion of Amel's Olivier Beatue at that time (185 hours). I ordered the end caps from Dessalator and received the black caps depicted in the photo's section. I currently only have about 240 hours on the water maker but I am still leak free. Just a thought. Could it be that you got a batch of poor guality o-rings? This might explain the recurrent leaks. The other possibility is that the o-rings aren't seating well when installed. Perhaps they have a twist in them? When I install aircraft o-rings I lube them with a silicone lube, then after meticulous cleaning of the o-ring groove, I roll the o-ring into the groove. I then use a plastic pic to to lift a point on the o-ring circumference and run the pic around the circumference a couple of times to insure there are no twists. Is it possible that your high pressure gauge is out of calibration and the system is being over pressurized? Not sure if any of these things are the actual cause but it certainly seems that you are suffering from a higher failure rate than I have experienced or heard about. Regards, Gary
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead
Ian Shepherd
Hi Bill & Judy,
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Thank you for your quick response. I did not believe for one moment that I was alone in experiencing this type of failure. Let's hope the black material is more resilient. My latest leak occurred from the end hose fitting bobbin, which is as you know, under the screw on curved bracket. That is an area that I have never had to disturb when changing membranes, so I am concerned at the design. Whilst seeking a replacement end cap in Marmaris last August, I looked at many other makes of designators. All of them had heavy duty machined end caps, and the interconnection was achieved through a reinforced hose with proper screw in fittings. I also believe that when I looked over the prototype Amel 54 last September, the water maker installed was also of a much more robust design. I am not certain, but it might well have been made by Dessalator. Quite why we ended up with what we have is a bit of a mystery. Were we early on in the evolution of the product, or was this a non standard design instigated by Amel's war on electrolysis perhaps? Maybe someone out there knows? Your TDS readings are lower than mine, as are John Hollanby's. This could be due to residual preservative chemicals from the new membranes even after 30 minutes washing, or a difference in the calibration of our TDS meters. The water passes the new boards specifications and I know that the new board is picky when it comes to allowing good water into the tank. Fair Winds Ian SM 414 Crusader
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From: Judy Date: 09/19/07 00:48:15 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead Ian, Our endcaps on our 160 liter watermaker failed at about 180 hours (almost 4 years). Your endcap failure sounds similar manner to ours. The o-rings on the high pressure fittings ('salt water in' and the 'interconnect bobbin')on the endcaps failed and water eroded the (white) nylon causing a leak. This was our only failure in less than 200 hours of operation. We bought replacement endcaps from Dessalator. The replacements are black. We now have 284 hours on the system. We have been getting between 130 and 200 TDS readings since the replacement of the membranes which came from AirWaterIce. The longer the system runs the less TDS. We should note that we have a manual diverter valve and we discard the first several minutes of product water until the TDS reading moves below 200. We always check the TDS before we shut the system down and usually have a reading of less than 140...in other words TDS does improve the longer the system runs. A TDS reading from our fresh water tank is usually about 135. Regards, Bill Rouse, sailing with captain Judy s/v BeBe, SM2 #387 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <sv_freespirit@...> wrote: minutes of high pressure operation. You will recall I said that I said thatthey built a two minute delay into the new board for commonality with the oldboard. The TDS reading of the water produced was 340 ppm which is marvelousIt dumped the water overboard as soon as it detected a problem with mymembranes and activated the bad water LED.end cap, this time at the hose connection end. Water had got pass the two1.5mm x 9mm o-rings and eroded the nylon, creating a serious leak. This was my5th end cap failure in just over 200 hours of operation! My end caps arewhite. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Amel say that it is very rare! Idon't believe them.
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Re: Watermaker Dead
drdavegoodman
Forgive my ignorance--What is a TDS reading, and how is it obtained.
Presumably it has to do with water purity? -- David Goodman email: drdavegoodman@gmail.com cell: 608-772-0634 STT: 340-998-2169
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watermaker filters
John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
Perhaps my last message was not clear. It seems to me that if the high
pressure pump produces high pressures on the out side it will produce huge suction on the in side and if it cannot get water it will destruct something en route. It is a pity that the documentation does not suggest the size of filter and it may well be that 5 micron is also too small. Best wishes, Anne and John SM 319
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Watermaker filters
John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
It may or may not be relevant but I replaced the saltwater filters
recently using a 30 and a 3 micron filters. The 3 micron one was too much drag on flow and resulted in the reading on the top meter to fluctuate wildly from normal to very low and the sight tube was showing a continuous flow of bubbles which may perhaps have been air leaks past the end fittings or somewhere else. I changed the fine filter to a 5 micron one which solved the problem although my ppm meter now shows a reading of 580 instead of the previous figure of about 450. I do not know at what level one should worry. the 580 is about the same as tap water in Malta which is claimed to be safe. We have done a blind testing with bottled water and neither of us could tell which was which. When we collected the boat seven years ago Olivier told us not to bother with sterilising and so we never have without any untoward effects. The product water at 100 or 200ppm is so pure that it will not nourish pot plants and indeed we met a French boat in the South Pacific with a dozen people on board and it was their practice to add sea water to get some minerals into it. So we are not psychotic about ppms but wonder at which level bacteria can pass the membrane. Must go, time for a drink, regards, Anne and John SM319
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[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi Ian:
Thanks for your input. Regarding: "To be exact, yet another leaking end cap, this time at the hose connection end. Water had got pass the two 1.5mm x 9mm o-rings and eroded the nylon, creating a serious leak. This was my 5th end cap failure in just over 200 hours of operation! My end caps are white. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Amel say that it is very rare! I don't believe them." I am not sure why you are having such leakage problems. I have had no leaks from my end caps. My first set of end caps where white plastic (?nylon) (see photo's in the photo section where I am trying to remove the white end caps). They looked pristine when removed during the replacement of my membranes that failed at the 185 hour mark. I replaced the end caps anyway at the suggestion of Amel's Olivier Beatue at that time (185 hours). I ordered the end caps from Dessalator and received the black caps depicted in the photo's section. I currently only have about 240 hours on the water maker but I am still leak free. Just a thought. Could it be that you got a batch of poor guality o-rings? This might explain the recurrent leaks. The other possibility is that the o-rings aren't seating well when installed. Perhaps they have a twist in them? When I install aircraft o-rings I lube them with a silicone lube, then after meticulous cleaning of the o-ring groove, I roll the o-ring into the groove. I then use a plastic pic to to lift a point on the o-ring circumference and run the pic around the circumference a couple of times to insure there are no twists. Is it possible that your high pressure gauge is out of calibration and the system is being over pressurized? Not sure if any of these things are the actual cause but it certainly seems that you are suffering from a higher failure rate than I have experienced or heard about. Regards, Gary
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[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead
Ian,
Our endcaps on our 160 liter watermaker failed at about 180 hours (almost 4 years). Your endcap failure sounds similar manner to ours. The o-rings on the high pressure fittings ('salt water in' and the 'interconnect bobbin')on the endcaps failed and water eroded the (white) nylon causing a leak. This was our only failure in less than 200 hours of operation. We bought replacement endcaps from Dessalator. The replacements are black. We now have 284 hours on the system. We have been getting between 130 and 200 TDS readings since the replacement of the membranes which came from AirWaterIce. The longer the system runs the less TDS. We should note that we have a manual diverter valve and we discard the first several minutes of product water until the TDS reading moves below 200. We always check the TDS before we shut the system down and usually have a reading of less than 140...in other words TDS does improve the longer the system runs. A TDS reading from our fresh water tank is usually about 135. Regards, Bill Rouse, sailing with captain Judy s/v BeBe, SM2 #387 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <sv_freespirit@...> wrote: minutes of high pressure operation. You will recall I said that I said thatthey built a two minute delay into the new board for commonality with the oldboard. The TDS reading of the water produced was 340 ppm which is marvelousIt dumped the water overboard as soon as it detected a problem with mymembranes and activated the bad water LED.end cap, this time at the hose connection end. Water had got pass the two1.5mm x 9mm o-rings and eroded the nylon, creating a serious leak. This was my5th end cap failure in just over 200 hours of operation! My end caps arewhite. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Amel say that it is very rare! Idon't believe them.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead
Ian Shepherd
Hi Gary,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I managed to run the water maker fitted with the new control board today with a brand new set of membranes. The unit worked fine as far as the electronics were concerned, giving a green light after exactly 2 minutes of high pressure operation. You will recall I said that I said that they built a two minute delay into the new board for commonality with the old board. The TDS reading of the water produced was 340 ppm which is marvelous compared with an off scale reading on the failed membranes. So the board did previously do exactly what it was supposed to do. It dumped the water overboard as soon as it detected a problem with my membranes and activated the bad water LED. I did experience another problem. To be exact, yet another leaking end cap, this time at the hose connection end. Water had got pass the two 1.5mm x 9mm o-rings and eroded the nylon, creating a serious leak. This was my 5th end cap failure in just over 200 hours of operation! My end caps are white. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Amel say that it is very rare! I don't believe them. I have unfortunately now got to go to a funeral in Switzerland Gary, so I won't be able to photograph the new board till I get back at the end of the month, but I will do so as soon as I can. NOTE for John Abercrombie: John I have replied twice to your e-mail and it has got bounced. Do you have another address please? Regards Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader
-------Original Message-------
From: amelliahona Date: 10/09/2007 18:34:32 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead Hi Ian: Thanks for your reply. Wonderful to hear how well the new board is working. A couple of questions: "I am not sure if my new board does contain an automatic reverse flush or not I received no documentation. " Would it be possible to post a photo on this site of the new board? Feel free to put it in the Dessalitor Technical Folder. I have posted a wiring diagram in that file of the new board that was provided to me by Dessalator. Thanks for the description of your tests. Well done. " When I spoke with their sub contractor (an Englishman), " Could you please provide a phone number so that I could contact him? "Incidentally, the failed one(s) lasted only 13 months, even with meticulous back flushing." Any thoughts on why the seeming premature failure? Thanks again for your input. Gary
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: rating
brgdebakker
Hi Achim,
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The mentioned site was helpfull. Thanx! Bart.
----- Original Message -----
From: achimschroeder2005 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 11:36 PM Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: rating Hi Bart, there is a German Kirk which has an ORC Club rating. The values are not on hand but can be send if necessary. Otherwise look on the www.dsv.org for ORC Club ratings for GER 5858 "Yes". Greetings from Hamburg Achim --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "brgdebakker" <brgdebakker@...> wrote: > > Hello, > > I'm curious to know if anyone knows the IRC rating or any other race > rating for an Amel Kirk. I'm planning on joining a racing circuit in > the Netherlands. > > Kind regards, > > Bart de Bakker, Amel Kirk 146 Folie à Deux > -- Mijn Postvak In wordt beschermd door SPAMfighter. 489 spam-mails zijn er tot op heden geblokkeerd. Download de gratis SPAMfighter via deze link: http://www.spamfighter.com/lnl [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Maramu fuel tank
Jim Dernehl <jim.dernehl@...>
Richard
I am sorry that I have not yet sent you pictures but I am traveling and will not be back to my boat until November-----in any case, your adding dual filters is a great idea.I assume you put RACOR filters on the boat or something similar. I have dual RACOR filters on PAO-SAN and they work great. Even with the cleaning ports I have installed these filters still are a life saver. It is always in the rough seas that you need to change them----better them then having the engine stop. I can not answer your question regarding the exact position of the baffles----I can only assume that they are in a vertical position-----as the installed ports do allow access to the bottom of the tank. I have never been at the boat when cleaning has been done on the tank-----but no one has complained about access. I will send you pictures plus some measurement so you can get an idea of what seems to works. Jim Dernehl Pao-San # 88 ________________________________ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Piller Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 1:34 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Maramu fuel tank Jim, we did the job a bit different, We used a fuel polishing guy to pump the tank a number of times to clean things out. Once the tank was fully pumped we took off the fuel lines prior to the fist fuel filter and put some air pressue to the tank to blow out and grim still in the lines. It work very well no longer did we have an issue with bad fuel. We also added a dual filter system to keep from having prolbems underway should be a get a bad batch of fuel.. Good luck and fair winds Richard SM 209 --- Don Henderson <maramu48@yahoo.com <mailto:maramu48%40yahoo.com> > wrote: James,<mailto:jim.dernehl%40operatingtech.com> > wrote: Jochen<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jochen Hofmann<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Maramu fuel tank__________________________________________________________ Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/ <http://tv.yahoo.com/>
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Maramu fuel tank
Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
Jim, we did the job a bit different, We used a fuel
polishing guy to pump the tank a number of times to clean things out. Once the tank was fully pumped we took off the fuel lines prior to the fist fuel filter and put some air pressue to the tank to blow out and grim still in the lines. It work very well no longer did we have an issue with bad fuel. We also added a dual filter system to keep from having prolbems underway should be a get a bad batch of fuel.. Good luck and fair winds Richard SM 209 --- Don Henderson <maramu48@yahoo.com> wrote: James, ____________________________________________________________________________________ Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Maramu fuel tank
Don Henderson <maramu48@...>
James,
Thanks for your comments. Can you describe the size and positions of the baffles? Are they welded to the sides and bottom? Are there limber holes at the bottom corners, or is there a space between the bottom edge of a baffle and the bottom of the tank? thanks Jim Dernehl <jim.dernehl@operatingtech.com> wrote: Jochen You are correct, that the lack of access ports in these well made stainless steel tanks must be addressed at some point on every boat. Diesel will shed crud---living and dead---that must be removed. I addressed this issue on my Amel by having a series of access ports cut in the lower part of the tanks between each baffle----about 4-5 ports were cut. Each port is large enough to reach through with a brush and vacuum hose. The fellow who did the work for me claimed to pull from the tank about 12 gallons of crud accumulated over a 9 year period. Next time I am at the boat, I will take some pictures and send them on with dimensions. It is very important to seal these ports with gasket and solid sections of stainless steel that will take the normal strain of sailing with out leaking. James Dernehl Maramu # 88 PAO-SAN ________________________________ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jochen Hofmann Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 6:48 AM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Maramu fuel tank To the best of my knowledge this is one of the flaws in the Maramu design - there isn't any. We have the same issue on our Blue Song - so far fortunately it hasn't become an issue ! Has anyone had an inspection opening made for the Maramu fuel tank ? Any advice would be greatly appreciated ! Fair Winds, Jochen Hofmann Maramu # 143 Blue Song --------------------------------- Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead
Ian Shepherd
Hi Gary,
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I will try and take a photo next week. I am rather busy this weekend as a gliding instructor, and hopefully a quick visit to Doodlebug in Limassol. I hope that a photo taken in it's housing box will be sufficient? I have a good camera that will take close ups. I only had e-mail correspondence with a Mr Peter Wolstenholme, who works for Dessalator's sub contractor. If I pass on his e-mail address to you, I would prefer to outside of this forum. You can e-mail me at crusader53 AT gmail com or sv_freespirit AT yahoo.co.UK I really don't know why the membranes failed so early. I thought it may have been an o-seal failure, but changing all of them had no effect. I have also had two failures of the end caps. It would seem that high pressure water has been getting past the seals on the cross connector tube and eroding the nylon material to such an extent that a serious leak occurred on both occasions. My third set of end caps are made of a new black material. I hope that these will be more resilient. I may consider relocating the membrane assembly to overhead the Gen-set. Their present location in the far left corner makes for difficult access, especially as I have a 110/220V transformer there that restricts access further. I looked at the diagram you posted. Looks really professional Gary. Well done. Cheers Ian SM 424 Crusader
-------Original Message-------
From: amelliahona Date: 09/10/07 18:34:32 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead Hi Ian: Thanks for your reply. Wonderful to hear how well the new board is working. A couple of questions: "I am not sure if my new board does contain an automatic reverse flush or not I received no documentation. " Would it be possible to post a photo on this site of the new board? Feel free to put it in the Dessalitor Technical Folder. I have posted a wiring diagram in that file of the new board that was provided to me by Dessalator. Thanks for the description of your tests. Well done. " When I spoke with their sub contractor (an Englishman), " Could you please provide a phone number so that I could contact him? "Incidentally, the failed one(s) lasted only 13 months, even with meticulous back flushing." Any thoughts on why the seeming premature failure? Thanks again for your input. Gary
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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
amelyachtowners@...
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners group. File : /Dessalator Technical Info/Schematic-Dessalator Board.pdf Uploaded by : amelliahona Description : Dessalator Logic Circuit Board Power/Interconnect Schematic, Revision 4, 14 Sept 2007 You can access this file at the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Dessalator%20Technical%20Info/Schematic-Dessalator%20Board.pdf To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files Regards, amelliahona
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Re: Watermaker Dead
edmund_steele
Hi Gary,
The wire from Pin 4, Plug 1 is paralleled to the wire from Pin 5, about an inch and half from the plug. The joint was buried right under the first cable tie and well hidden. Thank you for the kind offer of mailing spares. We are in cruising mode and will be stopping at ports of entry and anchorages for just a few days at most. We plan to winter in Marmaris, Turkey and fix all then. Best Regards, Ed --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:
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Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dolphin Reya 30 amp charger
Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@...>
Hello John 391,
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I do not know, I asked them to do it as I fail to see why a model sold in thousands could be improved by Amel who do not seem the best at electronics, vide watermaker, uninterfaced B&G with Raymarine and the bank of resistors under the chart table to reduce 24 volts to 12 instead of using an electronic convertor. Incidentally I omitted to add that the D1 model has 5 LEDs in a line and the D2 6 in a semi circle. Regards from John319
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From: johnabo2003 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:46 AM Subject: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dolphin Reya 30 amp charger Thanks for the info. I will e-mail Lucy tomorrow. I have been told by the Reya support office in the US, that the unit can be reset by disconnecting and reconnecting the 24v and 220v cables. This seems a bit strange to me but I will give it a try. First I will recheck the fuses. If I send it back to the factory for repair, what was the alteration that you had done to make it standard? Regards John SM391 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Anne & John Hollamby" <annejohn@...> wrote: > > There are several versions of the Dolphin chargers. Mine,which are Dolphin 1 (2000/2001). Dolphin 2 was brought in around 2002 or 3 and I think there is a later version. There is or was an Irish girl at Reya's,who, if you will excuse the expression, speaks and writes perfect English. I found her very helpful. Her address lucy.kellyatreya.com. I had my 50amp Mk 1 repaired at the factory and also altered so that it is a standard unit like the thousands they sell to other people. I removed the board from the casing and sent back by ordinary post to France and got it back in the UK. > So far as I recall they did not charge for the repair possibly because there was a two year warranty. > The fuses were not welded in on my unit, they came out after a little juggling with pliers. They are normal European automobile type and he actual fuse wire can be seen without removing them as it is a wire at the top. > The instructions for the latest type are available on the Reya website. I have a copy of the Dolphin 2 version but not the one for my earlier one. The D2 has six LEDs and has an equalisation stage. It seems that it also has an 8 position switch so that it can be altered to give the correct charge to 8 types of batteries. > I will post the D2 gen in the files section in about a months time when I am back on broadband and not being robbed by Vodaphone for my cell phone connection, assuming that noone else has done so in the meantime. > > Best wishes, John SM319 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: johnabo2003 > To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 5:57 PM > Subject: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dolphin Reya 30 amp charger > > > Hi Patrick, > > Thanks for the info, I am glad I did not force the fuses out now. I > now have the address for a US dealer, so I will contact them about > what support is offered. > > Unfortunately my charger is out of warranty, and I am not sure if a > repair will end up costing more than a straight replacement. > > Regards > John > > --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Naegels Patrick" > <naegels@> wrote: > > > > Hi John, > > > > I had same problem on my 50 Amps Dolphyn charger, just after 18 > > month. I was not able to replace main fuses because they > > were "welded" on. > > > > Amel decided to replace charger under warranty. So unfortunately, I > > have not suggestion, but this problem is known. > > > > Patrick - Caramel - SM2000#329 > > > > °°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°° > > --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, johnabo2003 <no_reply@> > > wrote: > > > > > > I have the 30 amp shore power charger fitted on the 2003 Amel SM. > > > Yesterday it stopped producing a charge to the batteries. The 100 > > amp > > > charger is still functioning correctly. > > > > > > The LED warning lights of the outside panel are not indicating > any > > > errors. The green on/off light remains on and bright. > > > > > > After opening the front panel I think I have identified 2 fuses > for > > > the DC output on the lower right hand corner of the board. > However > > > the fuses are hard to access and seem to be a tight fit. > > > > > > I do not want to damage anything by attempting to replace what I > am > > > not 100% sure are fuses. > > > > > > Has anybody experienced these symptoms and corrected them by > > > replacing the fuses, even though the fuse warning light is not on. > > > > > > If this is not the problem, does anybody know of a service/repair > > > center in the US? > > > > > > Regards > > > John Abercrombie SM391 > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: Watermaker Dead
edmund_steele
Hi Gary,
We have been at sea and just got to an internet connection again (Limassol, Cyprus). I did try to physically track both wires from pins 4 and 5 without success. I will try again really HARD and let you know. BTW, the manual override of the control board works fine. Ed --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dolphin Reya 30 amp charger
Ian Shepherd
Sorry John,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
That should have been lucy.Kelly@reya.com In case this gets stripped, it's lucy.kellyATreya.com Ian
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From: Ian Shepherd Date: 09/13/07 06:31:47 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dolphin Reya 30 amp charger Hi John, Sounds like it is not a fan problem and overheat shutdown on your charger. You can by the way hear the fan running when the charger is switched on and it is hot. I got support through e-mail. As I recall, they passed the problem to their own technical support who advised me of the identity of the failed component. I dealt with Lucy Kelly at Reya. Her e-mail is lucy kelly@reya.com Good luck with the repair. I hope that it is not too expensive! Regards Ian - Crusader -------Original Message------- From: johnabo2003 Date: 09/10/07 20:17:41 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dolphin Reya 30 amp charger Hi Ian, Thanks for the suggestion. We keep our boat at Corpus Christi, Texas, so it does get very hot in the summer. I did switch the charger off for 24 hours before attempting to restart it with no luck. I left the boat unattended for 2 weeks with the charger switched on. Upon my return I noticed quite quickly that it was no longer generating a charge. I have found the following dealer in the US www.skandvik.com. One of their tech's is supposed to call tomorrow. They also do bench repairs. Did you get your support from Reya by phone or e-mail? Regards John --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <sv_freespirit@...> wrote: causing the overheat sensor to shut it off. If you are in a hot climate,have you allowed it to cool down and se if it starts up for a minute or so?The device above pin 14 of IC1 was the culprit. The markings had beenerased but I did get some support from Reya. I believe the device was amosfet. I replaced it myself and the charger has worked fine ever since. Ofcourse it could have failed for many other reasons, but it would be worthchecking the fan operation first.amp charger is still functioning correctly.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dolphin Reya 30 amp charger
Ian Shepherd
Hi John,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Sounds like it is not a fan problem and overheat shutdown on your charger. You can by the way hear the fan running when the charger is switched on and it is hot. I got support through e-mail. As I recall, they passed the problem to their own technical support who advised me of the identity of the failed component. I dealt with Lucy Kelly at Reya. Her e-mail is lucy kelly@reya.com Good luck with the repair. I hope that it is not too expensive! Regards Ian - Crusader
-------Original Message-------
From: johnabo2003 Date: 09/10/07 20:17:41 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dolphin Reya 30 amp charger Hi Ian, Thanks for the suggestion. We keep our boat at Corpus Christi, Texas, so it does get very hot in the summer. I did switch the charger off for 24 hours before attempting to restart it with no luck. I left the boat unattended for 2 weeks with the charger switched on. Upon my return I noticed quite quickly that it was no longer generating a charge. I have found the following dealer in the US www.skandvik.com. One of their tech's is supposed to call tomorrow. They also do bench repairs. Did you get your support from Reya by phone or e-mail? Regards John --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <sv_freespirit@...> wrote: causing the overheat sensor to shut it off. If you are in a hot climate,have you allowed it to cool down and se if it starts up for a minute or so?The device above pin 14 of IC1 was the culprit. The markings had beenerased but I did get some support from Reya. I believe the device was amosfet. I replaced it myself and the charger has worked fine ever since. Ofcourse it could have failed for many other reasons, but it would be worthchecking the fan operation first.amp charger is still functioning correctly.
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