The structural integrity is a valid point. When AMEL retro fit their tank to a Santorin they only use the after top section of the heads lockers (for’d), and do not remove the centre partition as I have done to fit a larger tank. My question to anyone who has had a reto fitted tank in a Santorin is “does AMEL fibreglass the face panel (the for and aft panel that covers the lockers) back in place?” If they do I don’t see how you can replace all the pipework. You can replace the outlet pipe easily enough but I don’t see how you get to the inlet pipe and, if ever necessary, the pump out pipe and if they don’t then they must feel that the strength generated is not absolutely necessary – can anybody explain?

A factor that worries me if the apparent lack of a ventilation pipe to the tank. All my reading, and advice from manufacturers states that you need air circulation in the tank to keep bacteria down and reduce smell. Does AMEL really not have a air vent pipe?

From experience I do like the simplicity of the straight through system where the heads can flush straight to sea and can be held in the holding tank in port by use of one valve. Only the heads pump to go wrong!

I’m a bit puzzled by the use of PVC pipe. We spend a great deal of money fitting odour proof piping so why doesn’t the odour penetrate the PVC, and if it doesn’t why do the builder fit expensive pipe?

Robin


Craig & Katherine <sangaris@aol.com> wrote: Ken -
A prior owner of our boat, "Sangaris" (Hull#68-1992), did an
installation similar to Robin's except the full wall panel was
removed so that after the tank was installed on the middle shelf and
the full original panel put back in place it kept the original
appearance. You can't get to the tank without some dissembly, but
not a problem so far.
Unfortunately, you loose storage space and destroy the monocoque
structure Amel intended by having the full panel bonded in place. I
think a better solution would be a Raritan Saniflush/holding tank
combo installed under the towel rack next to the toilet, with some
finish paneling over it for appearance sake. It would give you easy
maintenance access and avoid the downside of cutting out the panel.
Plus that space is only handy for hanging towels - you could stil
have a foot or so above the unit. You could also nudge it a bit under
the sink.
By the way, I replaced all the hose with PVC piping and flexible
rubber couplings to the thruhull, toilet, tank & Y-valve. It works
great, is easier to work with than hose and NEVER smells. I run
muriatic acid through it periodically to disolve salt buildup -
(which works with hose, too.)
Good luck,
Craig Briggs

- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
wrote:

When we purchased our boat (Santorin 004) we knew that we would

have to fit holding tanks as we were going to the U.S. A friend ...
had to cut the fibreglass tape holding the front panel on and then
cut away the centre partition before fitting the tanks. ....

Robin Cooter

oceanhobo1 <ken@...> wrote: We want to install holding tanks in

our 1998 Santorin....> Has anyone had this done?. We would
appreciate any information on how

and best place to fit them....
Regards

Ken on OceanHobo1

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ken -
A prior owner of our boat, "Sangaris" (Hull#68-1992), did an
installation similar to Robin's except the full wall panel was
removed so that after the tank was installed on the middle shelf and
the full original panel put back in place it kept the original
appearance. You can't get to the tank without some dissembly, but
not a problem so far.
Unfortunately, you loose storage space and destroy the monocoque
structure Amel intended by having the full panel bonded in place. I
think a better solution would be a Raritan Saniflush/holding tank
combo installed under the towel rack next to the toilet, with some
finish paneling over it for appearance sake. It would give you easy
maintenance access and avoid the downside of cutting out the panel.
Plus that space is only handy for hanging towels - you could stil
have a foot or so above the unit. You could also nudge it a bit under
the sink.
By the way, I replaced all the hose with PVC piping and flexible
rubber couplings to the thruhull, toilet, tank & Y-valve. It works
great, is easier to work with than hose and NEVER smells. I run
muriatic acid through it periodically to disolve salt buildup -
(which works with hose, too.)
Good luck,
Craig Briggs

- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
wrote:

When we purchased our boat (Santorin 004) we knew that we would

have to fit holding tanks as we were going to the U.S. A friend ...
had to cut the fibreglass tape holding the front panel on and then
cut away the centre partition before fitting the tanks. ....

Robin Cooter

oceanhobo1 <ken@...> wrote: We want to install holding tanks in

our 1998 Santorin....> Has anyone had this done?. We would
appreciate any information on how

and best place to fit them....
Regards

Ken on OceanHobo1

Hello Robin,
I do not know how old your Santorin is but I do know that the linear
drive that I bought about 14 or 15 years ago was made by a British
company called Klaxon in Luton (I guess they used to make car hooters
about 80 years ago). By 1997 or 8 when the brushes went
Raymarine/Autohelm had switched to another manufacturer...we were in
Fiji and Raymarine UK told me that they had switched but failed to
give me an address or fax no. You could try contacting Raymarine UK
giving them the serial no of your drive and ask them for all the
contact details. You should also open up the end of the drive to see
whether the gears are metal or plastic as the latter have a life of
about 12-15,000 miles and are a vital spare...they used to cost £12.50
for the plastic and £125.00 for the metal ones now used by Amel.
Let us know how you get on.

Good luck, Anne and John, SM319

Would be very appreciative if you could let me have name and/or address, phone number and E-mail of the firm you got the brushes from

caramel02uk <pjn.mccallin@jerseymail.co.uk> wrote: whilst in Trinidad I went to the Raymarine agent and asked that he get
me a set of brushes for my Type 2 linier drive motor. I work on the
basis that if I have a spare the unit will never need it!!
Guess what Raymarine USA Michael.J.Warren@raymarine.com advised
brushes cannot be supplied, his alternative was to sell me a complete
new motor. I was under the impression supplies of spares had to be
offered for 10 years after withdralal of an item but I could be wrong
on this.
I tracked down the motor manufacturer who is based in GWYNEDD Wales and
for GBP18 I got 4 brushes sent to me.






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When we purchased our boat (Santorin 004) we knew that we would have to fit holding tanks as we were going to the U.S. A friend had one tank fitted to his Santorin by AMEL and I worked out that I could have two fitted for the price of his one! I measured up the space - quite difficult as the centre, athawtships, partitition was still in place. I ordered the tanks and took them out to St Raphael where a local shipwrite, very familiar with AMELs fitted them. He had to cut the fibreglass tape holding the front panel on and then cut away the centre partition before fitting the tanks. The size is not absoloutely perfect but it is not a bad fit. If I have an E-mail address I can sent you an attachment from my boat's information file with a couple of photos. In the first photo you can clearly see the fit of the forward tank. The sanitation hoses are clearly visible, the pumpout goes to the deck which shows the clearance between the top of the tank and the deck. There is also
a ventilation pipe that goes from the top to a "covered" hole at the top of the hull. This is important in order to slow down bacterial build op and the attendent smell. It also helps if you have guests who forget to empty the tank and try to overfill it as it acts as an emergency overflow! The information is on how to change the pipework. I like the system as you can use the toilet as a "straight through" system whilst at sea and as a holding tank in port and there are no pumps etc. It's worked o.k. for us for 6 years.

We are off abroad on Wednesday and would not be able to send you the infor for a coulpe of months so if it might be of any use please let me know ASAP.

Robin Cooter



oceanhobo1 <ken@xpress-services.co.uk> wrote: We want to install holding tanks in our 1998 Santorin, Amel inform us
that the tanks fitted to the SM will not fit the Santorin, and that we
have to have them specially made.

Has anyone had this done?. We would appreciate any information on how
and best place to fit them. We are berthed at present in Spain.



Regards

Ken on OceanHobo1





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On my 96 Santorin this has been done by Amel for the forward head.
The tank is fitted behind the panel, just below deck and forward of the
separation where the little cabinet is (the one with mirror doors). It
is true that it is a special tank. No more that a resin box that holds
about 10 gallons.
It has 3 hoses attached to it:
-One on top, coming from the head
-one on top going through the deck, for flushing and inspection, and
closed with a cap with vent.
-one at the bottom going to the valve then through the hull.
If you leave the vave open, it works as a regular head. If you close
the valve, you use the holding tank.
Georges, Santorin Greenlight

We want to install holding tanks in our 1998 Santorin, Amel inform us
that the tanks fitted to the SM will not fit the Santorin, and that we
have to have them specially made.

Has anyone had this done?. We would appreciate any information on how
and best place to fit them. We are berthed at present in Spain.



Regards

Ken on OceanHobo1

I need to order baterries for my 1995 SM, but I am not physically at the boat.
I need to know if anyone knows the standard size of the battery compartment
on the SM. If anyone has those dimensions, I would be very appreciative of
their input

Jerry
PFM #133

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, michael grunstein
<mgrunstein2002@...> wrote:

Hi Roy,

I am impressed with your painting job!
Did you use masking tape? and what do you mean by
"one-part Polyurethane"?
I am definitely going to do the same as the fading
paint is an eyesore.

Thanks, Michael Grunstein (#345)



Hi Michael,

Thanks for the compliment. The best description of the process
was posted by Ann Harsh of Harmonie on Sept 6 2003, under subject:
Deck Grooves. Do a search on this site to find that posting.
We used the Embee Striper, a small brass wheel (roller) with a 1
oz. glass paint bottle attached. We used the 3/16 in. width brass
wheel, which required just two passes on the grooves to fill them
with paint. No masking tape is needed -- the groove is sufficiently
depressed from the deck to keep the brass wheel and the paint
contained. Use the edge of the groove to guide the roller. Do a
Google search on "Embee paint striper" and you will find suppliers --
typically art supply stores. We bought the kit with 8 different
brass wheels, but only used one. You will also need a small brush
for the corners and other hard-to reach places like under cleats.
The paint we used was Pettit EasyPoxy One-part Polyurethane
Enamel. Interlux sells a similar paint: Brightside One-part
polyurethane enamel. One-part means you don't have to mix two
components and hope they don't "set" before you finish painting. As
the painting takes time, this type of paint just makes it harder.
You'll have a hard time finding a brown color to match Amel's
original gelcoat color. Use black -- it looks great! Get a quart of
the proper paint thinner, as you'll need it to clean up spots where
the paint goes over the edge of the groove. Use a clean cloth and a
fingernail. Finally, get a 10-oz.(or so) plastic squeeze bottle with
a small spout to refill the 1-oz. glass bottle -- nothing else works.
Thanks again to Ann Harsh who showed us the way.

Roy on Excalibur SM#195

Hi Roy,

I am impressed with your painting job!
Did you use masking tape? and what do you mean by
"one-part Polyurethane"?
I am definitely going to do the same as the fading
paint is an eyesore.

Thanks, Michael Grunstein (#345)



--- rbenven44 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi Eric,
We bought the Polytrol at Acastillages Diffusion
(AD), a shipchandler
in Hyeres, France. They have a web site. I don't
know if the
product is available in US, but probably in
Caribbean (St. Martin or
Martinique).
Roy

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric
<kimberlite@o...> wrote:

Roy,
Where did you get polytrol?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf

Of rbenven44

Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 7:01 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Painting deck stripes

- pictures

Hi,
Following the advice posted here by Harmonie a

couple of years
ago,

we painted the deck stripes on Excalibur last

November. Excalibur
is 8

years old, and in need of deck attention (we

probably scrub the
decks

too much!!)
I have posted some pictures on this web site

for those who want
to

see what it looks like, (before and after). We

are very pleased
with

the results. We used the Embee striper, as

recommended, and one-
part

polyurethane paint (50% brown, 50% black). It

took 6 days at 3
hours

per day for the decks, and 2 days for the cockpit.

After letting
the

paint dry for a few days, we coated all the

surfaces with Polytrol,
a

French product recommended by Mr. Selo at Amel.

The decks look
like

new. The picture of the re-painted forward deck

areas show before-
and-

after of applying Polytrol.
Any questions on how to do this, please contact

me.

Regards, Roy on Excalibur SM#195







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AMEL produce half models for the Santorin so I would be fairly sure they produce one for the Super Maramu. Might be worth asking them for a price.

Robin Cooter

closereach <closereach@yahoo.com> wrote:
We're thinking of having a half hull model built to mount on the main
bulkhead in the saloon. Here's what we've found out:

A traditional half hull model from www.halfhulls.com is US$445 plus
S&H. Halfhull is 18" (45 cm) long mounted on a solid mahogany
backboard 24" (61 cm) long. The price includes color matching the hull,
bootstripe, cove stripe, and nonfouling bottom paint. One month to
build.
To add the cockpit and cabin, the price is US$990 plus S&H. Two months
to build.
For a full 2 foot long model with rigging (with custom display case)
price is around US$8,000, and it'll take six to twelve months to build.
If you're interested, contact: Jim Fraley (jimfraley@halfhulls.com).

All the best to everyone,

Richard Tate
SM #5 Spice






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We're thinking of having a half hull model built to mount on the main
bulkhead in the saloon. Here's what we've found out:

A traditional half hull model from www.halfhulls.com is US$445 plus
S&H. Halfhull is 18" (45 cm) long mounted on a solid mahogany
backboard 24" (61 cm) long. The price includes color matching the hull,
bootstripe, cove stripe, and nonfouling bottom paint. One month to
build.
To add the cockpit and cabin, the price is US$990 plus S&H. Two months
to build.
For a full 2 foot long model with rigging (with custom display case)
price is around US$8,000, and it'll take six to twelve months to build.
If you're interested, contact: Jim Fraley (jimfraley@halfhulls.com).

All the best to everyone,

Richard Tate
SM #5 Spice

In a message dated 01/02/2006 14:06:48 GMT Standard Time,
closereach@yahoo.com writes:

A traditional half hull model from www.halfhulls.com is US$445 plus
S&H. Halfhull is 18" (45 cm) long mounted on a solid mahogany
backboard 24" (61 cm) long. The price includes color matching the hull,
bootstripe, cove stripe, and nonfouling bottom paint. One month to
build.
To add the cockpit and cabin, the price is US$990 plus S&H. Two months
to build.
For a full 2 foot long model with rigging (with custom display case)
price is around US$8,000, and it'll take six to twelve months to build.
If you're interested, contact: Jim Fraley (jimfraley@halfhulls.com).

All the best to everyone,

Richard Tate
SM #5 Spice






GULP that sounds expensive cant you get the lines and make one yourself OR
Does Amel not have half hull models?

regards

David

Since Yahoo strips out the email addresses in these posts, would you
please send Olivier Beaute's email address to me at:
judyrouse "at" houston.rr.com

Thanks,

Judy

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd"
<ocean53@s...> wrote:

Hi Judy,

Welcome to the Amel fraternity. If you want parts, contact Olivier

Beaute in

La Rochelle via email amel@a... (or by phone or fax). Olivier

speaks

excellent English and is most helpful. Delivery is normally by DHL

or, if

you prefer by post .

I have enclosed my details on Amel below.

Happy Sailing

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

Chantiers AMEL
16, rue Joseph Cugnot
BP 15 17 182
PERIGNY Cedex
France

Tél. : +33.546.55.17.31

Fax. : +33.546.45.43.03




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Judy,

Welcome to the Amel fraternity. If you want parts, contact Olivier Beaute in
La Rochelle via email amel@amel.fr (or by phone or fax). Olivier speaks
excellent English and is most helpful. Delivery is normally by DHL or, if
you prefer by post .

I have enclosed my details on Amel below.

Happy Sailing

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

Chantiers AMEL
16, rue Joseph Cugnot
BP 15 17 182
PERIGNY Cedex
France

Tél. : +33.546.55.17.31

Fax. : +33.546.45.43.03

Judy,

Mr BEAUTE has all the spares you will ever need.

He is extremely knowledgeable about our boats and was an instructor for new
boat deliveries.

He is very charming and helpful. Due to the volume of business, it might
take a few days for an answer from him.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





Chantiers AMEL
16, rue Joseph Cugnot
17 182 PERIGNY CEDEX
FRANCE



Tél.: 00 33 (0) 5 46 55 17 31
Fax : 00 33 (0) 5 46 45 43 03



www.amel.fr



amel@amel.fr



Olivier BEAUTE
After-sales dept.

We recently purchased SM2 #387 and have renamed her S/Y Security.
There are several things that we would like to obtain from Amel. I
have heard that Amel maintains some sort of owner database and that we
should contact Amel and register as the new owners.

Does anyone have the contact info for Amel for either this database
registration or for ordering spare parts?

Thanks in advance.

Judy
S/Y Security
SM2 #387

John,
I'm surprised that you were even able to get a quote from Pantaenius
to keep the boat in Texas gulf coast year round. Last summer the
Pantaenius US branch told us that they would not even write a policy
covering a boat that would be within the hurricane box during season.

I obtained quotes from several companies for 400k & 430k hull values.
All of them actually were writing the same policy -- from Great Lakes
Reins (UK)PLC, except for IMIS Al Golden. IMIS writes the Jackline
Policy, which is the only insurance company that is US and would be
under the jurisdiction of US legal system. The Great Lakes policy
does not fall within the jurisdiction of US legal system should you
ever have a serious problem with them.

American Marine Insurance Services $6290 for 400k hull and 500k
liability; no coverage if within hurricane box during season. This
was also the same Great Lakes reinsurance policy. That policy has
huge (20%) depreciation clauses, so read it carefully if you go that
route.

C.A. Hansen in Ft. Lauderdale $6315 for 400k hull and 1M liability;
same Great Lakes policy.

Bluewater Ins would not quote that high a hull value; they limited to
350k.

I obtained several other quotes, but those are on my computer and are
not accessible at this time for me to share with you. (I am using a
friend's laptop to write this message) But all the quotes were within
the same price range.

We wrote with Al Golden at IMIS with the Jackline Policy. $5521 for
400k hull and 1M liability with the tender deductible reduced to 1k
deductible. Windstorm is not covered if we are within hurricane box
during season, but all other coverage still applies even if we are in
hurricane zone. No other policy offered this.

Judy
S/Y Security
SM2 #387



johnabo2003 <no_reply@y...> wrote:

As a potential Amel Super Maramu owner I was horrified by the quote

I

received from Pantaenius to keep an Amel with a hull value of

$420,000

in the Texas Gulf coast.

Can anybody recommend an insurer that provides reasonable rates for
fair coverage - or a broker who provides good service?

Regards
John Abercrombie

In a message dated 31/01/2006 20:19:41 GMT Standard Time,
judyrouse@houston.rr.com writes:

We wrote with Al Golden at IMIS with the Jackline Policy. $5521 for
400k hull and 1M liability with the tender deductible reduced to 1k
deductible. Windstorm is not covered if we are within hurricane box
during season, but all other coverage still applies even if we are in
hurricane zone. No other policy offered this.

Judy
S/Y Security
SM2 #387



i did advise IMIS and Al Judy as i was sure that was where you got your best
quote from -
are you still in the VI's or home in TX?

regards

David

We spent five years in the South Pacific 1995/2000. Luckily this
period saw the start of the GPS era which made a huge difference to
safety. I have just read the Ocean Navigator article which Richard
has posted and would agree that currents are a big danger for the
unwary.
The prevailing winds and currents make it very difficult to
backtrack eastwards and can and do cause boats to be wrecked
especially at night whilst waiting for daylight to enter an atoll or
whilst anchored insecurely. During our time out there we heard of
several yachts had broken anchor winches as a result of anchoring in
atolls without realising that the bottom has many mushroom shaped
pillars of coral which the Aussies call bommies.
A boat is anchored facing the prevailing trade wind and current.
However at night the wind and/or current may drop or change
direction which causes the boat to drift around which may wind the
chain around one of these. After a few days this may take up all the
slack in the chain and thus if the wind and waves build up the winch
is damaged or perhaps a cleat is ripped out of the deck. This
happened to us but luckily we realised it and avoided damage by
letting out more chain and then putting out another anchor so that
we could let out more chain and then scubad down about 60 feet and
unwound the chain which was twice around a bommy. Many years ago
mariners used to bouy their chain with bamboo logs so that rose more
or less vertically and was in a series of loops between logs to
avoid this problem. We used fenders from then on. Perhaps a stern
anchor would also work.
We had an Echopilot forward looking echosounder which was good and
bad. It worked very well for motoring very slowly around coral areas
but was pretty well useless with flat bottoms, especially soft ones.
This was because the echos were not reflected. I suspect that the
other make would suffer th same effects. One thing that we did with
it occasionally was to turn the transducer around slowly after
anchoring to see whether there were any nasties on either side. The
defects in the Echopilot were that the LCD is polarised at 90degrees
to polarised sunglasses and thus the screen appears black until you
put your eyes at 90 degrees to the vertical!Also the screen goes
blank if subjected to direct sunlight/heat.
If we were doing the trip again we would carry extra fuel pobably in
plastic containers stored in the locker in the deck on the port side
which would put weight in the right place for the prevailing trades.
We had a spare Whale Gulper elctric pump which we used to move fuel
from the two 100 litre containers which were lashed to the mast and
granny bars on our boat which was an Oyster 435.
We enjoyed great hospitality from the Polynesians where ever we went
and in retrospect we should have taken gifts such as masks and fins
and other things for these people who cannot buy them locally even
if they had the money. Some places have so called yacht clubs that
we were invited to join....we should have done so as it is a
comfortable way of giving them money. Also most places have a dire
shortage of fresh water and if you have a good water maker I am sure
some water would be appreciated by these gentle folk.
There is a great website being produced by a young American couple
recording their experiences cruising the
Pacific...www.sailwhisper.com A free and easy to use site is
available from www.getjealous.com This site was set up by George
who is a friend of the young couple who bought my Oyster and you can
see their voyage at www.jasonandfiona.com They got as far as
Panama from the UK when Jason developed a brain tumour and had to
fly back to the UK for treatment oover a year ago.They had a
delivery crew bring the boat back and they are now living on it in
Poplar Docks in East London whilst, I imagine, he is still under
treatment.
If you only have one rudder drive I highly recommend taking a set of
spare brushes and gears for it. Such thing are not available before
getting to NZ or OZ and possibly not even there as
Raymarine/Autohelm change the motor suppliers from time to time and
stop stocking spares. In Fiji my drive stopped working reporting no
power on the control.When I opened up the motor it was full of
carbon dust from the badly worn brushes.None were available from
Aussie agents and Raymarine UK told me they had none as they had
switched suppliers not even giving me a contact for the previous
suppliers. Luckily the previous owner had left a set in the stores
otherwise I suppose one would have to make some from larger brushes
if found!
Any questions?

Regards, Anne and John SM 319