Date   

Re: Annual Haul Out

Willem J. Kroes <w.kroes@...>
 

Hi Gary,

Your description of replacing the seals from the prop shaft bushing
is very clear. Thank you very much!

One question remains: how to place the seals. Do I have to place 2
seals in such a manner that these prevent water coming in and the
third seal turned so it will prevent oil leaking out?


Regards,

Willem J. Kroes

Santorin 69 "Kavanga"
---- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
Jan 24, 2004
Hi Stephan:

Sorry to be so slow to answer: I am a new (and first time boat
owner
although I am a FAA certified aircraft mechanic and am used to
turning a wrench or two). We have had our Amel SM Hull #335 since
July 2003. Our first haul out was at the 1 & 1/2 year mark, having
been in Caribbean waters for about 9 months. The bottom was in
good
shape but because I wasn't sure how long to expect it to stay that
way we did the bottom paint. Amel recommends a hard bottom paint
(thus I believe this is a non-ablative type paint that you must
scrub
periodically). In checking with multiple sources the concensis was
that if you sail alot then an ablative paint works well because the
motion stirs things up and provides exposure of new paint. If you
don't sail a great deal (me, only about 4 months a year) then the
hard paint is better but must be periodically scrubbed. I chose
Petit Trinidad SR (a hard Slime Retardant paint) based on
discussions
with various yards in the Caribbean. It took 5 gallons to put 2
coats on everything and a third coat at the water line down about
18
inches (This is reportedly what the Moorings boats do). The paint
was about $155 USD in Grenada where I had it done. All they did
was
scuff sand the existing paint to provide tooth adhesion and put the
new paint on with a roller. It has held up well for 14 months now
and I did one scrubbing using 3M pads and two scuba tanks of air
(about a 5 hour job). At our haul out for the hurricane season the
bottom looked great. It is evidently imparative not to put a hard
paint over an ablative paint. I am told that it will flake off.

I have replaced the zincs twice. We are only in marinas hooked to
shore power for brief periods and when the zincs are about 50% gone
I
replaced them. Joel tells me that they may go in a few months or
last a year or more based on where the boat is and various marina
power scenarios etc. I guess I am about average at 15 months per
set.

I just changed the seals and the bronze prop shaft bushing with
about
400 hrs on the engine. There was no evidence of oil leakage at the
prop shaft. The oil was clean and there was very little wear on the
bushing. I suspect they would have easily gone to 1000 hours.

The procedure for changing the seals and busing isn't documented
anywhere so I thought I might tell you about my experience. I
purchased new "O" rings based on the drawing from Amel but my boat
has the rope cutter insalled and the "O" rings on the drain plug
are
a different size than depicted on the plain drain plug drawing.
The
chandlery in Nanny Cay had the correct size "O" ring. I don't know
what size "O" ring I ended up with but it would be worth checking
with Amel for the correct size for you application. The "0" rings
on
the bushing were supplied on mine spare from Amel. Exactly 8.5
liters of very clean oil drained from the drive and I used a
syringe
to get all that I could out of the bottom of the drive as described
by Amel. I used some penetrant oil the night before on all the set
screws that hold the rope cutter in place and they all cam out
easily. The various spacers and cutter came off the shaft and the
bushing slid out very nicely. This left the three seals in place.
There may be various ways to remove the seals but what we did is
drilled two small holes on each side of the seal, screwed a sheet
metal screw into the two holes and used a slide hammer connected to
the screws to pull the seal out. Then we drilled two more holes in
the next seal and repeated this process two more times. The seals
came out easily using this method. Prying etc would have been a
bigger chore. Some people collapse the seals with a punch but I
was
afraid this might damage the prop shaft. The new seals slid in and
were tapped into place using an appropriately size piece of pipe
about 14 inches long. I will measure this next time I am on the
boat
and post the dimensions because the size must be quite exact to fit
the seal and it must be long enough to extend beyond the end of the
prop shaft. Anyone doing this job themselves might want to put
together a tool kit that included this pipe (seal driver). Once the
seals are in place the bushing was inserted and pushed in so that
its
most aft portion is flush with the drive housing. Then all the
other
stuff (cutter and spacers, prop etc) were re-assembled and the
drive
was filled with 8.5 liters of 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil. I used
Lanicote on the prop shaft becuase I understand it will prevent
dissimilar metal corrosion.

When I removed the prop originally (which we did for the Autoprop
recall) we had a very difficult time. We had the Amel prop puller
and actually stretched the bolts to breaking once. All the tapping
and pulling we exerted didn't seem to help. Many folks gathered
around in the yard to offer a host of suggestions but finally what
work almost instantaneously was tapping around the circumference of
the prop hub on the forward aspect of the hub. There wasn't a spec
of corrosion or anything else holding the prop in place, just a
good
tight tapered shaft and Woodruff key.

I just had the fresh water pump fail. Fortunately I had a spare
and
promptly installed it. Upon disassembly of the original pump I
found
the pump housing, bronze impeller and motor shaft all pristine. A
plain steel Woodruff key was used by the manufacturer and it was
completely corroded away so that the impeller just spun on the
motor
shaft. I have tried un-successfully to find stainless steel or
bronze Woodruff Keys. I am going to manufature my own from
stainless
steel. Seems odd though that they would put a mild steel key in a
pump like this.

I have changed the finger zinc in the Onan genset once and it was
about 50% gone. I was able to obtain several more from my local
Onan
dealer here in the US.

I have ordered the water heater zincs from West Marine who had to
order them from Plastimo. It has been six weeks and I am still
waiting. West Marine/Plastimo wanted about $50.00 each for them.
I
didn't price them from Amel because the one I originally bought
from
Amel was the incorrect size. I only discovered that after the
messy
job of opening the water heater.

One other job that is important as far as preventive maintenance is
winch overhauls. I ordered the book from Lewmar and an overhaul
kit. Mostly you need the Lewmar grease, some plastic buckets to
use
to soak and scrub the various parts in some mineral spirits, a soft
bristled brush to help wash with and a few small brushes to apply
the
grease with. All of our winches were in great shape after 1.5
years,
including a trans-atlantic. Lewmar says they should be overhauled
3
times per season. If you did that with 11 winches you would spend
your entire season overhauling winches. It took me about 1 to 2
hours per winch to overhaul them based on the size of the winch.
It
is fairly straight forward (just remember for sure how you took
them
apart). The only winches that showed any signs of distress were
those on the main mast since they have so much greater sea water
exposure. I will plan to do them twice per year from now on. The
others will do nicely being done once a year based on my use.

I haven't yet tackled the bow thruster work. If there is anybody
out
there that could give details of the process it would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Sea Cow Bay, Tortola



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Stephan Regulinski"
<stephreg@y...> wrote:
We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can
anyone
advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is
best
done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change
the
seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am
I
missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)


Sail Tack & Clew Securing Lines

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

In discussions with Joel yesterday he revealed to me something that
I hadn't previously known that I would like to share.

I inquired about his recommendation for replacement intervals for
the topping lift lines and the clew and tack securing lines. He
indicated that he thought the topping lift lines (those for the two
booms) should be replaced every couple of years. This especially
made sense to me when the boat is located in the Caribbean where the
UV damage to lines is high.

As for the tack and clew securing lines he indicated that they
should be replaced with similar strength line since they are
selected from a material that should fail before something else
breaks. He indicated that Amel supplied some of this extra line to
owners when they took delivery. I did not receive any and I was
wondering if other owners did? It is not a big deal and I can
certainly order some from Amel (or at least find out the breaking
tensil strength specification from Amel), but inquiring minds want
to know. If this is a fail safe item it would also be important to
know how many turns of line Amel considers appropriate for each of
the tacks and clews. If you know the answers to these questions
please post
them.

Sincerely,
Gary Silver

s/v Liahona Hull #335 Providenciales, Turks & Caicos Islands


Amel Water Heater - Quick B45

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

I received another fax from Amel again stating that the electric
heating element is 600 watts. This despite the fact that I faxed
them the parts list from Quick showing that there IS NOT a 600 watt
element for this unit. I plan on calling them again on this but it
seems that confusion continues on this point.

John, I would really like to get your take on the replacement
procedure for the electric heating element.

Thanks,

Gary Silver


Quick B45 Water Heater Anodes & Heating Element

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

April 25, 2004 21:47 MST

Dear John:
Thank you for your reply and the information. I am guessing that M.
Selo's response, that it was a 600 watt element, was just a
typographical error.

I had the same problem with the anode supplied to me by Amel when I
took delivery. The anode they supplied was too small, had the
incorrect diameter mounting screw and just plain wouldn't work. I
ordered two of the correct anodes from West Marine, who got them
through Plastimo USA, who got them from QUICK. It took 9 weeks as I
recall. The QUICK part number is MMANMG450000. Quick or Plastimo
would not drop ship the item so after a backorder of 5 weeks it had
to be shipped to each individual vendor. Maddening. The price was
about $50.00 US each.

The anodes I received are indeed about 10 inches long, about 1/2
inch in diameter and had what I believe is a M10 bolt protruding
about 1/2 inch from the end. This bolt by the way is about 4 & 1/2
inches long and goes quite a distance into the anode. When I did
open the tank the original anode was completely gone (as in eroded
completely through) at the level of the threaded screw end, (i.e.
about 4 inches up from the end that screws into the tank lid). A
large segment of the anode was still intact but of no use since it
was sitting in the tank not attached to anything. I backed out the
threaded portion with Vice Grips and inserted the new one without
difficulty. Re-installing the tank lid was a real problem. Trying
to align the eight loose bolts in their slots and engage the tank
lid at the same time was atrocious. Bad design in my view. It
might work just fine with the tank in an upright position but in the
angled position in the engine room it was almost impossible. I
plan on using "O" rings and a thin nut to hold the eight bolts in
place in the future. There is a gap between the tank rim and the
tank lid that I believe will accommodate this approach.

I am half hoping that all that is wrong with my electric element is
that I did not push the "reset button" on the thermostat. I don't
recall being made aware of this button during the owner school and
the only piece of literature I had aboard was the data sheet and it
didn't mention it. I only learned about it after I was off the boat
and by downloading the QUICK User's Manual from the following
www.quickitaly.com web site (also includes the parts list).
Nevertheless I plan on getting an element to install if the button
reset doesn't work.

If it wouldn't be too much trouble to re-submit the details of the
procedure you used for replacing the electric element I know I would
find it useful and perhaps so would others on this web site. I take
it that the thermostat is a separate piece that somehow attaches to
the electric element. It isn't clear to me if the element screws out
with the oversized nut (about 3 inches across). Your experience
would be appreciated.

I believe that the engine heat exchanger doesn't work until the
engine thermostat opens up and when in the marina trying to heat
water with the engine took some time since I couldn't put the engine
under load very well.

Lastly, did you have some other difficulties with you unit other
than the anode?

Again thanks for your thoughts.

Sincerely Gary Silver s/v Liahona Hull # 335


Hot water heater.

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hi Gary,
The element is 500 watts. To replace it you will need a new plastic
seal and an anode.I know because my cylinder is sitting in my
cockpit awaiting spares from Quick through their local agency in
Malta who are anything but quick. I suggest you get two lots of
anodes and seals!!!
This is my second attempt to reply, the first one gave detailed
instructions on how to do it but got lost as I failed to do the
reply properly on this system. If you are going to do it yourself
let me know and I will draft a new set of hints.
The most important thing to remember is that when you or a tech
finally gets the thing open, it is essential to work fast at
descaling as the scale is like butter at first and soon like
concrete.
One or other part will be descaled first and the other should be
kept wet until dealt with.
Oh,by the way, the anode is a rod about 10 inches long with a female
thread in one end and bears no resemblance to the ones that M.Selo
sent me.

Good luck, John Bali Hai, SM319


Hot Water Heater Electric Element Question

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hello All:
I have the Amel installed Quick brand B45 (45 liter) hot water
heater on our hull # 335 Amel SM 2000. I have been corresponding
unsuccesfully with Amel for 2 weeks trying to determine the size
(wattage) of the electric heating element. I am not currently on the
boat yet I need to order the proper wattage element. The data sheet
for the water heater, that was included with all the other equipment
manuals, shows it to be a 1200 watt element, but the electric load
table in the Amel owners manual shows 500 watts. M. Selo emailed me
that they are 600 watts, yet the Quick parts manual supplied to me by
Plastimo USA shows there is not a 600 watt element (only 500 watt and
1200 watt). I phoned and faxed all this to Amel but have had no
response yet. If I fit a 1200 watt element and the circuit breaker
is sized only for 500 watts then it will pop the breaker. If I fit a
500 watt element when the 1200 watt is appropriate, the water will be
slow to heat.

Is anybody on their boat currently that has this same water heater
and could verify on the element itself what wattage it is? According
to Quick the data plate on the water heater should read as
follows: "B xx yy z" , where xx equals the size in liters (45 in
this case), yy equals the wattage of the electric element (00= none,
05 = 500 watts, 12 = 1200 watts) , and z equals S indicating that a
heat exchanger is present.

Optionally could anyone at least tell me what amperage the water
heater circuit breaker is?

I believe there is a small data plate on the end of the brown
thermostat housing on the water heater that might reveal the proper
wattage.

Or could someone use a clamp style amp meter to measure the AC amps
that their water heater draws while using 220 volt AC.

Thanks for any help.

Gary Silver, s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 #335 The boat is
currently in Providenciales (aka Provo), TCI (Turks and Caicos
Islands)


Re: Bowthruster 2nd part

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

I am glad to see that you have resolved your problem. However as a
general comment it is possible to get a motor rewound thus bringing
back to its original performance at a fraction of the cost of a new
motor.There are specialist companies to do this in most large towns
and harbours around the world. Although it is a bit late you might
consider getting the old motor rewound to have as a spare. Many
technicians will not tell you this but are not slow in keeping the
burnt out motor or alternater so they can get it rewound etc to
sell it on.
Having owned an Oyster ketch without a bow thruster I often called
up the marina in advance and asked them to provide a marinero in a
dinghy to act as a bow thruster and get me into the berth safely. On
the rare occasions when I had spare crew I put one member in the
dinghy to see me in. Similarly I have used my dinghy to help others
into their berths. It can be done by pushing the bow but the
professionals seem to prefer lashing their dinghy alongside and
using forward or astern to help you get in safely.

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai SM319

amelyachtowners@..., "dimitriskrassopoulos" <dkra@a...>
wrote:
Dear All.

As you remember I had over-used the bowthruster and I wish to
advise
you of my experience with that.

After the incident the bowthruster continued to work. I used it
five
times without problem 3hours after the incident the next day of
the
incident and 3days after the incident with an electrician while we
were trying to evaluate the extend of the damage. I left from the
marina for the Eastern vacation without any problem using the
thruster cautiously. When we arrived in Poros 30 nm away and with
strong side wind I lowered the thruster and it didn't work at all
without any warning. I was surprised ofcource and we left
immediatelly for the next harbor Porto-Heli 25 nm away where I
was
able by coincidence to moor the boat without the thruster. I
immediattely ordered the new motor in La Rochelle and they shipped
it same day by UPS to my adress in Athens. When we arrived back it
was practically impossible to moor the boot as the cross wind was
over 18 Knots and I put with great difficulty the boot with the
bow
in its moorafter 3 attempts. The boot is completly unmanouvarble
without the thruster, the combination of the folding propeller
with
the great distance between the prop wash and the rudder make it
impossible to steer back wards but also straight forward to put
the
boot in the moor.

I was extremeely happy to install the new motor in place exactly
the
same day of our arrival in Kalamaki. It took 3hours to remove the
old motor and put the new one in place. It can be done with the
help
of another sailor. I put immediattely the boat correctly in its
moor.

I want to express my regards to the excellent after sales service
in
La Rochelle and to warn everybody that if the thruster has a
problem
it is better not to approach a harbor that you know that is tight
and cross wind is expected.

Regards

Dimitris Krassopoulos
SM Alma Libre


Bowthruster 2nd part

dimitriskrassopoulos <dkra@...>
 

Dear All.

As you remember I had over-used the bowthruster and I wish to advise
you of my experience with that.

After the incident the bowthruster continued to work. I used it five
times without problem 3hours after the incident the next day of the
incident and 3days after the incident with an electrician while we
were trying to evaluate the extend of the damage. I left from the
marina for the Eastern vacation without any problem using the
thruster cautiously. When we arrived in Poros 30 nm away and with
strong side wind I lowered the thruster and it didn't work at all
without any warning. I was surprised ofcource and we left
immediatelly for the next harbor Porto-Heli 25 nm away where I was
able by coincidence to moor the boat without the thruster. I
immediattely ordered the new motor in La Rochelle and they shipped
it same day by UPS to my adress in Athens. When we arrived back it
was practically impossible to moor the boot as the cross wind was
over 18 Knots and I put with great difficulty the boot with the bow
in its moorafter 3 attempts. The boot is completly unmanouvarble
without the thruster, the combination of the folding propeller with
the great distance between the prop wash and the rudder make it
impossible to steer back wards but also straight forward to put the
boot in the moor.

I was extremeely happy to install the new motor in place exactly the
same day of our arrival in Kalamaki. It took 3hours to remove the
old motor and put the new one in place. It can be done with the help
of another sailor. I put immediattely the boat correctly in its moor.

I want to express my regards to the excellent after sales service in
La Rochelle and to warn everybody that if the thruster has a problem
it is better not to approach a harbor that you know that is tight
and cross wind is expected.

Regards

Dimitris Krassopoulos
SM Alma Libre


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] crew needed - maybe

KIMBERLITE <kimberlt@...>
 

www.sailopo.com <http://www.sailopo.com/> provides crew for free. You
would have to join for $200- us.
They can also provide a captain.
Mention my name Eric Freedman
Sm 376 kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: Jochen Hofmann [mailto:jochen@...]
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: AW: [Amel Yacht Owners] crew needed - maybe

Hi Christina,



would love to do the transfer for you myself but I am in the middle of a
ham
licence course and thus will probably not be available for the time you
mentioned.

However I might be able to give you a very good recommendation: A German
company specializing in Yacht deliveries. They have their own skippers
and
normally get the crew through ads in German yachting magazines. This is
usually either free of charge for the owner or very reasonably priced.



I did lots of crewing for them (including a transfer of an SM from La
Rochelle to the Baltic Sea in March ! ) before we bought our own Amel
Maramu
# 143.



What model / hull # are you looking for in FLA ?



Kind regards,



Jochen Hofmann

S/Y Blue Song







_____

Von: cjcolclough [mailto:cjcolclough@...]
Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2004 00:04
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: [Amel Yacht Owners] crew needed - maybe



Dear all

We are thinking about buying an Amel in Ft Lauderdale. Since we live
in Europe, we are looking for somebody who can sail her to us. Can
anybody recommend a company or private people/ a crew who can do this?

Unfortunately our jobs make it impossible for us take part in the
crossing, so we are looking for a good and trustworthy solution.

Any and all advice would be much appreciated.

Best regards to you all

christina colclough

p.s. we hope to set sail from Ft Lauderdale in May/June 2004.








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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] crew needed - maybe

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hi Christina,



would love to do the transfer for you myself but I am in the middle of a ham
licence course and thus will probably not be available for the time you
mentioned.

However I might be able to give you a very good recommendation: A German
company specializing in Yacht deliveries. They have their own skippers and
normally get the crew through ads in German yachting magazines. This is
usually either free of charge for the owner or very reasonably priced.



I did lots of crewing for them (including a transfer of an SM from La
Rochelle to the Baltic Sea in March ! ) before we bought our own Amel Maramu
# 143.



What model / hull # are you looking for in FLA ?



Kind regards,



Jochen Hofmann

S/Y Blue Song







_____

Von: cjcolclough [mailto:cjcolclough@...]
Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2004 00:04
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: [Amel Yacht Owners] crew needed - maybe



Dear all

We are thinking about buying an Amel in Ft Lauderdale. Since we live
in Europe, we are looking for somebody who can sail her to us. Can
anybody recommend a company or private people/ a crew who can do this?

Unfortunately our jobs make it impossible for us take part in the
crossing, so we are looking for a good and trustworthy solution.

Any and all advice would be much appreciated.

Best regards to you all

christina colclough

p.s. we hope to set sail from Ft Lauderdale in May/June 2004.








Yahoo! Groups Sponsor



ADVERTISEMENT

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tflix.com/Default?mqso=60178432&partid=4786521> click here



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* To visit your group on the web, go to:
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* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>

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crew needed - maybe

cjcolclough <cjcolclough@...>
 

Dear all

We are thinking about buying an Amel in Ft Lauderdale. Since we live
in Europe, we are looking for somebody who can sail her to us. Can
anybody recommend a company or private people/ a crew who can do this?

Unfortunately our jobs make it impossible for us take part in the
crossing, so we are looking for a good and trustworthy solution.

Any and all advice would be much appreciated.

Best regards to you all

christina colclough

p.s. we hope to set sail from Ft Lauderdale in May/June 2004.


Chile

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Slightly off the subject, but if any Amel is thinking of heading to Chile there is a wonderful new pilot out by the owners of Suadade III, an Amel Sharki which has cruised Patagonia for the last 8 years.The pilot is called Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego and written by Mariolina Rolfo and Gioirgio Ardrizzi. ISBN 888598634 X. 719 pages. Over 400 anchorages beautifully desribed and charted, lots of excellent colour prints and background information. The authors set out to find a safe anchorage every 5 miles from the entry to Chilean waters in the South all the way to Valdivia and have largely succeded. I think this will rank amongst the best pilot books ever written. Even if you dont intend to sail to Chile it makes great reading. But, beware.....read it and you will want to come! Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302, Puerto Montt, Chile.

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo


Main boom dopwnhaul/preventer

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hello again Giovanni,
We have now taken some pics to show the arrangement described in my
message No 1076.
The pics are now posted at the end of the album.Click on Photos and
then click on SM319 This will open the album which has 18 pics
showing some of the stuff described in my message No 897 and Pic Nos
19,20 & 21 show the preventer.
Note that the traveller is still in the centre as we shape the sail
by adjusting the main sheet and the preventer.
When we gybe the boat we first centre the boom and after gybing ease
the boom out using the preventer which, by then, is on the windward
side of the boat.
We then take up the tension on the leeward preventer to shape the
sail and avoid the possibility of an accidental crash gybe.
Perhaps we may meet as we will be in Croatia this summer

Regards, Anne & John Bali Hai, SM319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ITT Jabsco Industries - Rule Pump Recall

Roy A. Duddy, Esq. <rduddy.duddylawoffices@...>
 

Eric,

They are the live well pumps. I tried to attach the info in the event anyone
uses them.

Roy

-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@...]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 2:17 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ITT Jabsco Industries - Rule Pump
Recall


Aren't these the bait ( livewell) pumps used on fishing boats ?

Thanks

Eric





_____

From: Alejandro Paquin [mailto:alex.paquin@...]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 2:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ITT Jabsco Industries - Rule Pump Recall



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Roy A. Duddy, Esq."
<rduddy.duddylawoffices@v...> wrote:
>
>
> FYI,
>
> Roy
>
>

Which pump?






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster Problem

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hi Achim,

thanks for doing the test. Looks like my recollections were wrong about the
160 amps then. My apologies, and good news for Dimitris. Thank you also for
the info on the fuses. I am not sure that I would like to fit one as the
startup load might trip the fuse just when you really need the bowthruster.
As Dimitris said, it's better to save the boat than the bowthruster.

I have had the mainsail furling motor circuit breaker trip a few times on my
second boat. This never happened with the previous boat. Maybe it is a
combination of the new sails and wetness causing more drag than the Gateff
laminated sails? It only seems to happen in rain. Has anyone else had the
breaker trip when trying to furl the main?

Ian Shepherd

SM 414 Crusader

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans-Joachim Schröder" <Achimschro@...>
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster Problem


Hello,

I just read your message regarding the non availability of a fuse. " the
Link 10 instrument is
reading more than 300 Amperes when I moved the joystick of the
thruster."

There are fuses for 300 and 355 amps on the market. The price in Germany is
about 34.- € for the holding device and 8.- € for the fuse itself. This is
just from a normal yacht equipment dealer.

Hope that helps and happy easter to you too.

Achim Schroeder
Kirk # 81







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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster Problem

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hi Dimitris,

yes you are right. You don't need expensive equipment to read the current
taken by the bow thruster motor. The Link 10 will show the discharge current
for free.

I may have been mistaken about the 160 amps that I thought the motor
normally draws. It's been several years since I measured it. As I have been
deprived of my boat since last October, I cannot do a test at the moment and
see what it should be, but I am sure that there are others out there who
could operated the joystick and see what current the Link 10 is showing? It
would be a good comparison for you. If they are also showing around 300
amps, then you are probably OK. This seems to fit the calculation. I hope to
be back on board Crusader mid May, and I will do a similar test and let you
know.

As I have to sail to Malta to complete VAT paid formalities, I may well be
in your area after a visit to Croatia. Time for an ouzo or two? Do you have
on board email and SSB?

Fair winds

Yasu

Ian Shepherd (Larnaca Cyprus)

----- Original Message -----
From: "dimitriskrassopoulos" <dkra@...>
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 10:31 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster Problem



Thanks to all for the support. I really know now more than before.
It is excellent that we have a forum for our boats. So in reply to
Ian I think that Kimberlitt is right the Link 10 instrument is
reading more than 300 Amperes when I moved the joystick of the
thruster.

I know that you have to use the thruster only for small bursts but
it is better to save the boat than the thruster. However I also
thought that there is a fuse to stop the thruster as it is one for
the anchor but there is not any and Amel replied to me that there is
not possible to find a fuse that can withstand all these amperes. So
be beware that you can damage the thruster and run into a fire
disaster if you use it for longer period.

Now I will think my next step. I will use the thruster cautiously
over the Easter vacations and then remove it from the boat for a
closer look by an electrician and decide if I need to buy a new
motor.

Happy Easter to all

Dimitris Krassopoulos
Alma Libre
Hull 370







Yahoo! Groups Links




Rule "F" Series pumps

Roy A. Duddy, Esq. <rduddy.duddylawoffices@...>
 

Listmates,

Sorry about the post. Apparently, I cannot send photos/or copies of complete
pages. The website is: http://www.rule-industries.com/

Roy
Sharki #123
Unwineding
Portsmouth, NH, USA

Duddy Law Offices
175 Route 101
Bedford, NH 03110
603-472-8500
603-472-7333 Fax
rduddy.duddylawoffices@...


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ITT Jabsco Industries - Rule Pump Recall

kimberlt <kimberlt@...>
 

Aren't these the bait ( livewell) pumps used on fishing boats ?

Thanks

Eric





_____

From: Alejandro Paquin [mailto:alex.paquin@...]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 2:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ITT Jabsco Industries - Rule Pump Recall



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Roy A. Duddy, Esq."
<rduddy.duddylawoffices@v...> wrote:


FYI,

Roy

Which pump?






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Re: ITT Jabsco Industries - Rule Pump Recall

Alejandro Paquin
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Roy A. Duddy, Esq."
<rduddy.duddylawoffices@v...> wrote:


FYI,

Roy

Which pump?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ITT Jabsco Industries - Rule Pump Recall

kimberlt <kimberlt@...>
 

The balance of this e-mail was not received- please send again-

Fair winds,

Eric'





_____

From: Roy A. Duddy, Esq. [mailto:rduddy.duddylawoffices@...]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 12:48 PM
To: AMEL YACHT OWNERS (E-mail); Chet Dunn (E-mail); Gary Wennberg (E-mail);
Scott Gordon (E-mail); Sgordon (E-mail); Steve White (E-mail)
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ITT Jabsco Industries - Rule Pump Recall





FYI,

Roy








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