Date   

Anchors

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hi Ian,

I agree entirely with your remarks that the Spade is better that the Wasi
Bugel. When my Stainless Amel CQR came apart one night during a cold frontal
passagein the Bahamas, I replaced it with a 30 Kg Spade from West Marine.
The difference in holding was remarkable. Unfortunately I sold that anchor
with
my first boat.

The second boat came with a Wasi. It holds well, but the disadvantage is
that it seldom comes up to the bow roller the right way up! Have any seaweed
or mud on the crown, then forget it. You will have to make a trip to the bow
and twist the chain by hand which completely defeats the objective of being
able to handle the anchor from the cockpit. As you say, the tip weight on
the Spade is far superior to the Wasi, and I don't ever remember the Spade
arriving at the bow roller upside down.

I don't think that the swivel that is supplied with the Wasi helps the
situation either. I talked this over with three anchor suppliers at the
London Boat Show, and they all recommended removing the swivel. They all
thought that the swivel served little purpose and introduced a weak link in
the system. The wall thickness of most swivels where the pin goes through is
significantly weaker than a high quality shackle. Without the swivel, the
anchor stands a better chance of coming up the way it went down.

Speaking of anchors, does anyone agree that the primary bow roller has too
flat a profile? It only takes a small yaw for the chain to run off the side
of the roller which results in metal to metal contact and for the chain to
rub against the starboard side of the GRP chain gulley on the foredeck. A
deeper profiled roller would cure this problem. (This flat profile may be
peculiar to the latest boats produced. I don't remember the problem on the
first boat).

Incidentally, the price of the 30 Kg Spade at the show was significantly
cheaper than the West Marine price, though West may have lowered their price
from the $995 that I paid two years ago. However, with the Dollar going
south at the moment ..............

Regarding tack angles, you are spot on. Using Nobeltec software, I pre-plan
tacks at a 120 degree track angle and it usually it works out well. Yes you
will do better if the current is in your favour on one tack, but 120 degrees
is a good ball park figure.

I have Demi sails on my new boat. I have not yet made up my mind if they
are better or worse than the Gateff laminated sails that I had on the first
boat. Amel say that the new sails will allow you to point better, but I
really
have not noticed it. I have noticed a few strange looking wrinkles appearing
though which does cause me some concern over the long term.

Regards

Ian Shepherd
SM # 414 "Crusader"


Re: A Relay from Rob Brennan

koenvelleman <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Rob,

Here a few answers to Ur questions:

The Med is a big place and there are huge differences in quality and
prices of services, what will be Ur route ?

I never used any fuel additive, not in Europe nor in
the rest of the world.

As for antifouling I always used Micron by International paints,
its widely available and self polishing. Ofcourse all depend what
has been used previously.

The early SM had some problems:

1) The early Z-drive was changed to a much more stronger version.
There have been a lot of problems with this early drive. (broken
gears). As the unit is sealed it is not possible to repair.
The new drive solved all the problems. Replacing the old drive for
the new one is possible and best done at the Amel wharf.
Be prepaired for a salty invoice. Try to have a look at a recent SM
so that U can see the difference.
I had personaly no problems with this drive, but I know of several
boats who suffered damage. The people from Amel have warned me
that it was riscky to leave Europe with the early drive.
(I changed it)

2) The early headsail furling was CRAP. Most older SM have changed
this unit to a new version (there a several versions), but some
seldom used boats still have this old unit. Also the older
profile has only 2 sail tracks and a different
head, wich means that U can not roll the ballooner and genoa
together in a downwind squall...a big disadvantage. There a
a few ways around this problem but the best solution is to change
the alu profile and head. (3 tracks)

3) The mainsail electric drive had also its problems. The early drive
gearboxes are Italien industrial gearboxes with a mild steel shaft
wich is exposed. This shaft rusts and the sealing starts leaking.
Amel used normal grease and this grease doesn't like seawater and
becomes stone-hard.
It is important to strip these units before a big trip, replace
the sealings and pack with a grease that supports seawater.
(Locktite for ex has such grease, also Amel uses a similar
grease now.
The early angle reverser is of a very poor design, change it
to the new design or U risk of being unable to roll the main in..
(also not manually!) Got this problem personaly.

4) The original ZEISSE genset created a lot of problems.
Most SM changed to another brand. The main problem was cooling.
The seawaterpump is driven by a tiny belt wich slips and breaks.
I put this pump directly on the cranckshaft (as prepared by
Farymann diesel) and changed the cooling to fresh water cooling.
My unit is still working perfect under all sea conditions.

5) The electrical system of the early SM's is not fit for offshore
cruising. The boat is all electric, the charging and
batteries are completly unsufficient. As Amel tackled this
problem quite late, somewhere in the mid 90, U will see most SM
running their gensets for hours in offshore anchorages.
Some SM's have an alternator on the prop and this works
fantastic. We run radar, lights, fridge, freezer, laptop,
SSB, C-Sat, weatherfax, autopilot, breadmachine etc
without running the genset or engine when
sailing. The problems start when anchoring.
I dubbeled the batteries, replaced the 20amp charger with a 75amp
one (Mastervolt), put an extra 50 amp alternator on the main
engine. 40 min genset in the morning and evening will keeps my
batteries happy (in the tropics).

6) The early Autohelm 7000 had some mechanical problems.
A plastic gear in the drive breaks in heavy seas.
They changed this gear to a copper one. Its easy to
correct this problem.
As I had doubts about the Autohelm pilots (from previous exper.),
I changed the main pilot to B&G, with the added advantage that
it can talk to the B&G instruments.
I heard from early SM owners that they are quite happy with
their Autohelm 7000 (after changing the plastic gear).

7) The electric Lewmar winches on the early SM's had also sealing
problems. If this gets serious then water gets to the gearbox
and moter unit. This can be solved if their is no damage to the
gearbox.


The positive side is that the after-sale service of Amel is very
good and that none of the problems I had are structural.
The 1989 SM and the 2004 SM are basicly the same, wich is a proof
of the very well tought design. That Amel improves equipment and
details is normal. By following their important changes You can
improve Your boat to the new standards and that makes an Amel unique.

Fair Winds !

Koen
Flash IV
SM17

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <g4ljf@c...>
wrote:
To the Amel Network: Greetings!

I have been an observer member of your group for many yearning
years. And am about to graduate as an owner member. I'm excited and a
little daunted. The boat, Signore dei Mari is lying Antalya, and very
soon to become Australian owned. She has been Swiss owned (and very
loved since launch in 1989/90.

So hello SuperMaramu and Mediterrranean sailors. Can you help me
please with:

1. location of best slipway services and prices in the eastern Med

2. location of best marina prices

3. best underwriting of SuperMaramus at value for money prices

4. names and manufacturers of best antifouling paints available in
Europe/Turkey

5. do you treat diesel for fungi and bacteria in Europe

6. And I would welcome any and all advice and recommedations
relevant to my finalising my purchase. In anticipation - thank you
and best regards.





My direct contact is brennan@w...

Best regards from downunder,

Rob Brennan



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Opinionated remarks

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Dear John,

Loved your tip of fitting an anode to the anchor chain. How obvious, though I have never seen it done. I have a Spade, stainless, 30 kg, at whose altar I worship.50% of the weight in the tip as against 16% for the Bugel and a concave shape for ( I think) better resistance. I have yet to see an anchor test where the Spade hasnt come out ahead of all others in the test, though I have not seen anyone test the Spade and Bugel against each other.Has anyone ? The Spade is the only product to have featured in consecutive years in Practical Sailors top ten products. Damned expensive, but it is developing a following. Antyhing has to better than the slippery plough!
Gateff v. North....I beg to disagree! It sounds as though you had better luck with your Gateff genny than we did. Half furled, ours does a very passable imitation of my grandmothers bloomers on a washing line. Improved considerably with the addition of a foam luff, and not affected adversely when we , too, dumped the sock in favour of a UV strip. However, the switch to a North genny, 61 sqm against 64 for Gateff, cut higher, has proved really worthwhile--sets furled much better, greater visibility, less likelihood of catching a wave in the foot, and , not anticipated by me, it needs far less adjustment of the car than the Gateff. All now probably academic as Amel have a new sail maker( and have been talking to ...North.) At the end of the day, I would be interested to hear if anyone can better 120 degrees between tacks with a fully laden boat and last weeks swell competing with yesterdays waves and todays windshift.I also wonder what other cruising boats do any better than 105 between tacks?
Ian. Pen Azen. SM 302


From: Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Opinionated remarks
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 13:33:49 -0500

A future owner asked me for my comments on a few aspects. I set out my
comments below in case anyone wishes to comment.

Have a go! John Bali Hai, SM 319

"Instruments, I am inclined to agree with you about the mix of units. My
only complaint with the mix is that Amel does not make them all talk to
each other. This may be because Amel have a number of "funny" ideas about
safety possibly because some of their customers have no previous sailing
experience. For example they do not enable the tracking function on the
autopilot because they consider it dangerous. We had Pochon enable it which
was only a matter of a few button pushes. I am told that it is quite simple
to interface the B&G to enable the pilot to sail at a set angle to the
apparent wind and to get true wind speed and direction on the B&G using the
Raymarine Fluxgate compass but I have not yet done this.
The window in the bimini is essential if you have any interest in the set
of the sails! Our window is about 40cms wide centred over the wheel but it
should have been carried across to the same distance from the other side of
the cockpit. It is in the panel of vynil next to the hard top. We tried to
put a fabric sun shade on the underside using adhesive Velcro but this was
not a good solution as the adhesive melts in the strong sun and the
expansion rates are different. I think the solution is to make up a strip
of fabric to go on top being held at the front with fastenings to go on the
clips which hold the bimini cover in place when the bimini is closed and
with some other way of securing it to the back of the open
bimini....probably elastics with hooks to catch on the frame. (Han som gor
biminin gor ocksa ett solslydd men vi ville inte ha det da!)
The motor which moves the car securing the clew of the sail is very
powerful and I damaged the stop fitting on the front of the track on the
boom and also destroyed the line that moves the car by not releasing the
button before the car hits the stop. I then put two strips of adhesive tape
on the side of the boom so that I can see when to stop looking either
through the screen / window or over the top of the closed bimini. This
furling line incidentally is kevlar cored and not easily obtainable. We
tried prestretched halyard but it stretched a lot and slipped on the
driving sheave.
I eventually got some kevlar line in Turkey which does the job although it
is 2 mm thicker than the original. I intend to try Spectra of the right
size next summer. Getting the right length/tension was not easy and
involves using one of the halyard winches on the mast.
Our boat was supplied with a zip up canvas U/V screen cover for the genoa.
It was a real pain in the ass and we had U/V protection strips sewn on the
genoa so we could dump the zip up one (which was bulky,heavy and extremely
difficult to get down).
We bought a Southern Pacific 3.1mtr aluminium RIB in Auckland and shipped
it over.It is very light at 37 kilos and lies inverted across the top of
the aft cabin deflated on long passages without getting in the way of
anything and is not too bad when still inflated on short passages lashed
down with the fuel tank and spare cans underneath it. It cost less than
1000 and is very sea worthy and fast with our 15 HP motor.
There is a halyard through a sheave on the spreaders of the mizzen and
this has several uses. It is for the passuerelle and when placed through
the open ended sheave on the side of the mizzen boom it falls exactly above
the outboard mount on the rail, I wish that I had asked Amel to fit a
second dinghy mounting on the port side. We also use it to hoist the dinghy
by tying the end onto the painter and lowering the end of the dinghy on to
the cabin top. We have the davits suggested by Amel and we put this halyard
onto the davit taking the weight of the 15HP outboard to lift the fully
equipped dinghy for security at night. When doing this we put the halyard
on to the electric main sheet winch. The davits are good and bad as fitted
by the suppliers. They are hinged off two plates bolted on to the transom
and I took them off to fit reinforcing pieces of ply glassed in in the
lazarette. I should also have made the suppliers fit better fitting hinge
pins as there is too much play thus allowing the davits to swing too much
when carrying the dinghy.
Bali Hai was supplied with a stainless CQR anchor but I believe they now
fit a Bugel type anchor also in stainless. We are fans of the latter type
and purchased a 36 kg galvanised one last year in Turkey. If you have this
type you should paint the semi circular bow white so that in clearish water
you can see how well it has set. Either way if you have a stainless anchor
and galvanised chain you should fit a 28 or 30 mm shaft anode at the end of
the chain to prevent electrolysis rusting the chain. We did this after our
first season as the end 30 cms of the chain were rusting so we cut them off
and with the anode have had no further problems. We met another Amel owner
last summer who had gone the expensive route of replacing the chain with
stainless....he looked a bit surprised when I suggested that this might
perhaps move the electrolysis up to the winch.
We have an SSB connected to the whip aerial and a Ham set connected to the
port hand mizzen backstay. I think Amels use of the whip stems from the
belief that the backstays are too close together or more probably because
of the proximity of the wire topping lift on the mizzen boom. We only have
the SSB because we took it off our last boat. I prefer the ham radio
because our experience in the South Pacific was that contacts switch to
alternative frequencies when there is interference and by the time I had
retuned the SSB they had gone elsewhere. There seems to be no noticeable
difference in range etc. despite the difference in output. When I installed
the hamset in Malta I had a professional test it and in no time at all he
had made contact with a ham in Poland. Since then I have replaced the
topping lift with a rope one. I have no info on the actual virtues of
either set as I have not been able to find anyone to talk to in the Med(I
have not tried much). The advice of the US firm that makes the Aerial Tuner
for my ham set and also whip aerials is that the longer backstay is better
! Personally I dislike having the whip.
I was concerned about the diesel capacity but it is not a problem in the
Med. If I was doing a long passage I would probably put a lot of 30 ltr
cans in the huge locker outboard of the port side of the cockpit and
anticipate that this would be well placed for the long port tacks across
the oceans.
Our sails are by Gateff but I think Amel have switched to another loft. We
are perfectly happy with ours but there has been some comment on the
website from owners who have new ones made by North etc. I think it is all
bullshit as I think they are trying to make the boat sail closer to the
wind, something for which it is not designed. If it were then there would
be shorter spreaders and chainplates passing through the deck. Our Oyster
had those and they leaked whatever we tried. I suppose if it was an issue
for me I would look into getting a blade Jib to fit in the foretriangle
with new tracks to suit. Our experience on the often windward passage
between NZ and the islands was that we were better off with a smaller
flatter furling high cut genoa so that it did not turn into a bag when well
furled to cope with the strong winds.
We opted for the 160 ltr watermaker so that we could make enough water
easily whilst charging the batteries and have not taken on shore water for
over two years.
I wish I had specified the big Heart Interface American charger/inverter
as, although we have the 30 and the 50 amp French chargers fitted they have
no provision for putting in an equalisation charge to enhance battery life.
I also wish that I had asked for a spinnaker halyard to be fitted with the
fall inside the mast because the halyard for the balooner does not over
inspire me as a method of being taken up the mast.
I like to have a Windex at the masthead but the standard is to put two
antennae up there for the VHF and the FM radio. The aft one of these is the
FM one and is where I would have liked to have had a combined VHF and
Windex aerial.
We changed the arrangement for pulling down the main boom as original with
block and tackle as it involves going out on deck for sail adjustments and
gybing. We have a block which clips onto the same spot on the rail and the
original block on the boom. However it has only a 2 part line which is two
metres longer than the original so that it comes back to the aft cockpit
winch via a small block to improve the lead. This enables us to shape the
sail from the cockpit without having to move the main traveller so far and
most importantly permits a totally controlled gybe in any conditions.
I hope this all gives you something to think about ! If you need any
addresses in NZ for the dinghy or cockpit seat pedestal please let me
know."





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

kimberlt <kimberlt@...>
 

Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of pettit
ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3 spongy
inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3 seals
on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder and
the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also, check
the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephan Regulinski [mailto:stephreg@...]
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 3:30 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can anyone
advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is best
done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change the
seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am I
missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)


_____

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Annual Haul Out

Stephan Regulinski
 

We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can anyone
advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is best
done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change the
seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am I
missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fuel capacity

Michael Glass <mglass@...>
 

ff-----Original Message-----
[Michael Glass]

Take extra fuel. As much as possible. Although it depends on sea state and a multitude of other factors, I usually figure a range of about 700-800 miles to be conservative on a tank travelling at 2000-2001 rpm with the Volvo Penta diesel.


From: Anne and John Hollamby [mailto:hollamby@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 1:34 PM
To: amelyachtowners
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fuel capacity



Can anyone comment on the adequacy of the 600ltr fuel tank for long range
sailing, say for transoceanic trips lasting 2-4 weeks?

John and Anne Bali Hai SM 2000


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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fuel capacity

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hi John & Anne,

unless you are going to motor for days on end, you should have no worries about the fuel capacity. I have made two Atlantic crossings in SM2000's, one in the Trades and the other across the N.Atlantic and probably only used 1/8th of the capacity on the first and less than that on the second, when I had a wind generator and solar panels fitted. I no longer carry any spare cans of fuel. I can put the space saved to better use, though for more remote parts of the world, cans will be useful where you cannot get fuel that easily or even at a dock. You could work on about 1 imperial gallon per hour when motoring at 7 knots. It seems to work out that way for me.

Always best to fill it up of course in case you get dismasted or blow the sails out! It can happen.

Good Luck

Ian Shepherd

SM # 414 Crusader


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fuel capacity

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Dear John and Anne, Apart from the fact that you can never carry enough fuel...we have transatalnticed ( 17 days) when we only motored for 7 hours but, more to the point, have motored long distances on the S American west coast where, Panama to Arica and even further south, light airs are the order of the day.We monitor fuel consumption prety carefully ( the standard 78 hp Volvo of old, with about 1000 hours on it) and in calmish seas with a fully laden boat we get 6.75 knots at 1900 revs and about 4.3 lph. Considerably less consumption if you are content to go slower, much greater for that extra half knot and huge increase if you cruise above 2300 or so. We carry 6 jerry cans giving about 130 more litres. Doesnt do a lot for trim when stowed in the lazarette , but comforting to have. I think I can honestly say that we have never had to rely on the extra fuel, but that is really a choice of route. Also the jerries have been invaluable on this coast where often the only fuel available is from a garage.( though yesterday a truck came to the marina near Valparaiso and delivered via the longest hose you can imagine 300l of City diesel--a first for us. I gather is gives 5% less power but less pollution. 27p per litre....)
Needless to say, after all the warnings posted on this site, we open up the engine to full revs every 8 hours or so for about ten minutes to decoke the turbo.
I think an SM should really have a fuel tank of 1000l to do justice to its long legs, but I think also that you would be unlucky to be caught short as it is.
Incidentally, do you find that the last 10l on your dipstick are somewhat optimistic? I keep overflowing when I add much more than 5 litres above 590. Ian and Judy

_________________________________________________________________


Opinionated remarks

Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
 

A future owner asked me for my comments on a few aspects. I set out my
comments below in case anyone wishes to comment.

Have a go! John Bali Hai, SM 319

"Instruments, I am inclined to agree with you about the mix of units. My
only complaint with the mix is that Amel does not make them all talk to
each other. This may be because Amel have a number of "funny" ideas about
safety possibly because some of their customers have no previous sailing
experience. For example they do not enable the tracking function on the
autopilot because they consider it dangerous. We had Pochon enable it which
was only a matter of a few button pushes. I am told that it is quite simple
to interface the B&G to enable the pilot to sail at a set angle to the
apparent wind and to get true wind speed and direction on the B&G using the
Raymarine Fluxgate compass but I have not yet done this.
The window in the bimini is essential if you have any interest in the set
of the sails! Our window is about 40cms wide centred over the wheel but it
should have been carried across to the same distance from the other side of
the cockpit. It is in the panel of vynil next to the hard top. We tried to
put a fabric sun shade on the underside using adhesive Velcro but this was
not a good solution as the adhesive melts in the strong sun and the
expansion rates are different. I think the solution is to make up a strip
of fabric to go on top being held at the front with fastenings to go on the
clips which hold the bimini cover in place when the bimini is closed and
with some other way of securing it to the back of the open
bimini....probably elastics with hooks to catch on the frame. (Han som gor
biminin gor ocksa ett solslydd men vi ville inte ha det da!)
The motor which moves the car securing the clew of the sail is very
powerful and I damaged the stop fitting on the front of the track on the
boom and also destroyed the line that moves the car by not releasing the
button before the car hits the stop. I then put two strips of adhesive tape
on the side of the boom so that I can see when to stop looking either
through the screen / window or over the top of the closed bimini. This
furling line incidentally is kevlar cored and not easily obtainable. We
tried prestretched halyard but it stretched a lot and slipped on the
driving sheave.
I eventually got some kevlar line in Turkey which does the job although it
is 2 mm thicker than the original. I intend to try Spectra of the right
size next summer. Getting the right length/tension was not easy and
involves using one of the halyard winches on the mast.
Our boat was supplied with a zip up canvas U/V screen cover for the genoa.
It was a real pain in the ass and we had U/V protection strips sewn on the
genoa so we could dump the zip up one (which was bulky,heavy and extremely
difficult to get down).
We bought a Southern Pacific 3.1mtr aluminium RIB in Auckland and shipped
it over.It is very light at 37 kilos and lies inverted across the top of
the aft cabin deflated on long passages without getting in the way of
anything and is not too bad when still inflated on short passages lashed
down with the fuel tank and spare cans underneath it. It cost less than
£1000 and is very sea worthy and fast with our 15 HP motor.
There is a halyard through a sheave on the spreaders of the mizzen and
this has several uses. It is for the passuerelle and when placed through
the open ended sheave on the side of the mizzen boom it falls exactly above
the outboard mount on the rail, I wish that I had asked Amel to fit a
second dinghy mounting on the port side. We also use it to hoist the dinghy
by tying the end onto the painter and lowering the end of the dinghy on to
the cabin top. We have the davits suggested by Amel and we put this halyard
onto the davit taking the weight of the 15HP outboard to lift the fully
equipped dinghy for security at night. When doing this we put the halyard
on to the electric main sheet winch. The davits are good and bad as fitted
by the suppliers. They are hinged off two plates bolted on to the transom
and I took them off to fit reinforcing pieces of ply glassed in in the
lazarette. I should also have made the suppliers fit better fitting hinge
pins as there is too much play thus allowing the davits to swing too much
when carrying the dinghy.
Bali Hai was supplied with a stainless CQR anchor but I believe they now
fit a Bugel type anchor also in stainless. We are fans of the latter type
and purchased a 36 kg galvanised one last year in Turkey. If you have this
type you should paint the semi circular bow white so that in clearish water
you can see how well it has set. Either way if you have a stainless anchor
and galvanised chain you should fit a 28 or 30 mm shaft anode at the end of
the chain to prevent electrolysis rusting the chain. We did this after our
first season as the end 30 cms of the chain were rusting so we cut them off
and with the anode have had no further problems. We met another Amel owner
last summer who had gone the expensive route of replacing the chain with
stainless....he looked a bit surprised when I suggested that this might
perhaps move the electrolysis up to the winch.
We have an SSB connected to the whip aerial and a Ham set connected to the
port hand mizzen backstay. I think Amels use of the whip stems from the
belief that the backstays are too close together or more probably because
of the proximity of the wire topping lift on the mizzen boom. We only have
the SSB because we took it off our last boat. I prefer the ham radio
because our experience in the South Pacific was that contacts switch to
alternative frequencies when there is interference and by the time I had
retuned the SSB they had gone elsewhere. There seems to be no noticeable
difference in range etc. despite the difference in output. When I installed
the hamset in Malta I had a professional test it and in no time at all he
had made contact with a ham in Poland. Since then I have replaced the
topping lift with a rope one. I have no info on the actual virtues of
either set as I have not been able to find anyone to talk to in the Med(I
have not tried much). The advice of the US firm that makes the Aerial Tuner
for my ham set and also whip aerials is that the longer backstay is better
! Personally I dislike having the whip.
I was concerned about the diesel capacity but it is not a problem in the
Med. If I was doing a long passage I would probably put a lot of 30 ltr
cans in the huge locker outboard of the port side of the cockpit and
anticipate that this would be well placed for the long port tacks across
the oceans.
Our sails are by Gateff but I think Amel have switched to another loft. We
are perfectly happy with ours but there has been some comment on the
website from owners who have new ones made by North etc. I think it is all
bullshit as I think they are trying to make the boat sail closer to the
wind, something for which it is not designed. If it were then there would
be shorter spreaders and chainplates passing through the deck. Our Oyster
had those and they leaked whatever we tried. I suppose if it was an issue
for me I would look into getting a blade Jib to fit in the foretriangle
with new tracks to suit. Our experience on the often windward passage
between NZ and the islands was that we were better off with a smaller
flatter furling high cut genoa so that it did not turn into a bag when well
furled to cope with the strong winds.
We opted for the 160 ltr watermaker so that we could make enough water
easily whilst charging the batteries and have not taken on shore water for
over two years.
I wish I had specified the big Heart Interface American charger/inverter
as, although we have the 30 and the 50 amp French chargers fitted they have
no provision for putting in an equalisation charge to enhance battery life.
I also wish that I had asked for a spinnaker halyard to be fitted with the
fall inside the mast because the halyard for the balooner does not over
inspire me as a method of being taken up the mast.
I like to have a Windex at the masthead but the standard is to put two
antennae up there for the VHF and the FM radio. The aft one of these is the
FM one and is where I would have liked to have had a combined VHF and
Windex aerial.
We changed the arrangement for pulling down the main boom as original with
block and tackle as it involves going out on deck for sail adjustments and
gybing. We have a block which clips onto the same spot on the rail and the
original block on the boom. However it has only a 2 part line which is two
metres longer than the original so that it comes back to the aft cockpit
winch via a small block to improve the lead. This enables us to shape the
sail from the cockpit without having to move the main traveller so far and
most importantly permits a totally controlled gybe in any conditions.
I hope this all gives you something to think about ! If you need any
addresses in NZ for the dinghy or cockpit seat pedestal please let me
know."


Great web site for free

Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
 

If anyone wants to set up an excellent web site to fascinate, interest or
bore friends and family have a look at jasonandfiona.com and if you like
it contact George Burrows, details below.
It is definitely worth a look. Anne and
John Bali Hai, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: George Burrows
To: Anne and John Hollamby
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 11:34 PM
Subject: RE: Charges


Hi John,

It is nice to hear from you. Trenelly (S'Mines name under Jason and Fiona)
is a really beautiful yacht. I've spent a few weeks aboard her in the
Mediteranean and Caribbean and have always had the most wonderful time.

GetJealous.com is free for anyone who wants to write about their travels.
This membership allows its users to write diary entries, have a message
board, an interactive map charting their progress and room for 40 photos.
If this space gets filled, then it costs 15GBP to upgrade to a premium
membership which has space for 300 photos.

I hope this helps, and thanks for getting in touch.

Kind regards,

George Burrows

-----Original Message-----
From: Anne and John Hollamby
To: helpdesk@...
Subject: Charges
I sold my last yacht to Jason and Fiona and very much enjoy watching
their progress.
As a matter of interest I would like to know about the costs because if
they are reasonable I will pass the info on to people who are likely to be
interested.

Congratulations on the site, Regards,
John Hollamby


Fuel capacity

Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
 

Can anyone comment on the adequacy of the 600ltr fuel tank for long range
sailing, say for transoceanic trips lasting 2-4 weeks?

John and Anne Bali Hai SM 2000


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A Relay from Rob Brennan

Shann, Mark V <shannmv@...>
 

Ian, not in East Med, but I am expat resident working in Cairo and have cruised my Maramu for the last year in the Gulf of Suez and Red Sea, Egypt. Ace winter sailing conditions at the moment, just back from Sudan / Egypt Ras Banas area over Xmas/New Year.

If you (or other Amel owners), every want to venture inot the Red Sea / Gulf of Suez, drop me a note, lots of scoop on marinas, routes, key folk to contact etc.

best regards, Mark Shann (direct email: shannmv@..., Mobile +20 12 2706137)
Synnefoula - Maramu 1986.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Shepherd [mailto:g4ljf@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 9:38 AM
To: Amel Owners Group
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] A Relay from Rob Brennan


To the Amel Network: Greetings!

I have been an observer member of your group for many yearning years. And am about to graduate as an owner member. I'm excited and a little daunted. The boat, Signore dei Mari is lying Antalya, and very soon to become Australian owned. She has been Swiss owned (and very loved since launch in 1989/90.

So hello SuperMaramu and Mediterrranean sailors. Can you help me please with:

1. location of best slipway services and prices in the eastern Med

2. location of best marina prices

3. best underwriting of SuperMaramus at value for money prices

4. names and manufacturers of best antifouling paints available in Europe/Turkey

5. do you treat diesel for fungi and bacteria in Europe

6. And I would welcome any and all advice and recommedations relevant to my finalising my purchase. In anticipation - thank you and best regards.





My direct contact is brennan@...

Best regards from downunder,

Rob Brennan


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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A Relay from Rob Brennan

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

To the Amel Network: Greetings!

I have been an observer member of your group for many yearning years. And am about to graduate as an owner member. I'm excited and a little daunted. The boat, Signore dei Mari is lying Antalya, and very soon to become Australian owned. She has been Swiss owned (and very loved since launch in 1989/90.

So hello SuperMaramu and Mediterrranean sailors. Can you help me please with:

1. location of best slipway services and prices in the eastern Med

2. location of best marina prices

3. best underwriting of SuperMaramus at value for money prices

4. names and manufacturers of best antifouling paints available in Europe/Turkey

5. do you treat diesel for fungi and bacteria in Europe

6. And I would welcome any and all advice and recommedations relevant to my finalising my purchase. In anticipation - thank you and best regards.





My direct contact is brennan@...

Best regards from downunder,

Rob Brennan


FW: Fw: USS Cole Transport]

Roy A. Duddy, Esq. <rduddy.duddylawoffices@...>
 

K[Roy Duddy] knowing our common interest in the sea, I am forwarding the
following to you...very amazing!

Roy Duddy
Unwineding
Sharki 123







Subject: FW: USS Cole Transport





Did you ever wonder how they loaded the Cole on that Norwegian
transporter? Quite an innovative engineering solution!


http://www.pianoladynancy.com/recovery_usscole.htm
< http://www.pianoladynancy.com/recovery_usscole.htm >


Engine room fans

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

M. Selo tells me that the reason the genset has its own fan is that there is a legislative requirement ( presumably United States of Europe law....oops! there speaks an Englishman...) that the engine must have independent ventilation , so that to link the genset to the engine room fans is verboten. However he goes on to say that even if the genset fan doesnt work , the genset does get enough air to function, something I can certainly vouch for.
Still, maybe it would still be simpler just to double up on the engine room fans? Ian . Pen Azen
PS On Volvo exhaust stain, apparently Chile is only self suficient as to 20 % of its oil. The rest it imports...from Venezuela. Can`t really figure it out , unless the Venezuelans only send the clean stuff to Chile and the dirty stuff to the Eastern Caribbean.Either way, I am pleased to say it continues to behave quite differently here with virtually no exhaust stain. However, our days of long distance motoring are probably now behind us for a while.The quiet stuff extends from Panama down to about 30 S. We are now in Valparaiso with about 400 miles to go to get to the area S of Puerto Montt which we want to cruise for a couple of seasons. but the navtext is forecasting 30-40 knot Southerlies about 100 miles from here and a boat that left two days ago had 50 knots. And this is their summer!There must be something that needs doing on the boat that will keep us in port for a while longer, though I am pleased to say that I can`t think of anything right now.

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo


A good VAT Deal

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hi,

for those of you that have not yet paid the European VAT, you might be interested to know that Malta have agreed a special deal with the EU commissioners that is valid until the end of March this year. If you pay before then, you will only ever pay 5% of the surveyed value. This is a really good deal and I am going ahead with it on my new SM2000.

I enclose the copy of an email from S & D Yachts who are handling my application to pay. You may wish to contact Mr. Rowland Darmanin Kissaun on +356-213-20577 to discuss your particular case. You may also care to mention that I passed this on to you. It may help if you are not Malta flagged. I am.

Good luck!

Ian Shepherd

SM2000 "Crusader"


From: S&D Yachts
To: g4ljf@...
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 5:09 PM
Subject: Fw: EU vat in Malta



Dear Ian,

Please note that it has been definitely established that the special concession for payment of vat is valid until the end of march 2004 at a special reduced rate of 5%.

What is obviously required for this purpose is the following:

a-The attached authority is to be signed by the owner of each yacht and sent back to us in its original form.
b-a photograph of each yacht showing her name and as much of the yacht as possible.
c-a certified copy of the certificate of registration of each yacht
d- if privately owned a copy of the passport of the owner and if company owned a copy of the memorandum and articles of association of the company.
e- confirmation where each yacht is lying and whether each owner can sail here before the end of march for us to make an official valuation of the craft or alternatively we will send somebody to inspect for valuation purposes.

It is preferable if the yacht is registered under the Malta Flag.

Thanks and regards;

Yours sincerely


Mufida
Secretary
F/Roland Darmanin Kissaun
S&D Yachts Ltd-Malta


Spa Failures

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

If anyone has knowlege of failures of spreaders or masts on Super Maramu or Super Maramu 2000 yachts, will they please let me know at g4ljf@... as soon as possible.

With thanks

Ian

SM2000 #414 "Crusader"


Re: Light Bulb Replacement

Geoffrey Tyers <geoffrey_tyers@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Geoffrey Tyers"
<geoffrey_tyers@y...> wrote:
--- In amelyachtowners@..., sv_alchemy wrote:
I am seeking replacement light bulbs for the
brass cabin light in the main saloon of my Sharki. The
lamp is made by Poinsard. The bulb is a 12v 25w
bayonet type with two contact points. The base is
approximately .875" (22mm) and the bulb is approximately 1.25"
(32mm)diameter. It is about 2 5/8" high overall. Writing on the
bulb is: SPLENDOR 12V 25W AUSTRIA J4. I haven't been
able to locate such a bulb locally and would
appreciate any help. Thanks!
Did anyone get an answer to this request. I have the same need.
I also am missing the Port side main cabin aft light fitting .
Advice as to a source for one would be welcome.
I also am missing the port side main cabin light fixture. I have E
Mailed Amel in France for the supplier but have not yet heard from
them. Geoffrey Tyers


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Pacific

Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@...>
 

Mike
My name is Derek Jarvis and I'm a broker over in Ft lauderdale these days but cruised extensively in that area a number of years ago.
I have done the route you are planning,but not as far north as you want to go.I went from Queensland to Samarai then to the Trobriands,up to Madang then the Hermits,Philippines and Hong Kong.On the way back I hit the Philippines again,then Palau,the Ninigoes,Madang again,then the Louisiades,Gizo in the Solomons and back to Oz.
The usual route is thru PNG to Palau(now Belau)Yap and up to Guam then Saipan,Okinawa to southern Japan.From there its follow the Westerlies to Dutch Harbor,along the chain of the Aleutian islands.
I came back across from Queensland via the Solomons,Tarawa,Majuro,Wake Island,Honolulu to Vancouver.
Enjoy your sail its a great part of the world!If I can be of help email me at derek@...
Cheers Derek

Mike Gough <mahili_au@...> wrote:
Greetings and happy new year to all,

My name is Mike Gough, I am preparing a Maramu, 1984, #147 for a Pacific crossing. I am considering clockwise from Australia, Louisiades, Micronesia, Japan, Alaska then West coast till Panama and join the trade wind route back to Aust. Has anyone any experience or info on this route please?



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5% VAT Opportunity

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

For those of you that have not paid VAT in Europe, you might be interested to know that Malta are offering a special 5% rate of VAT till the end of March this year. Here is an article that I found on the net:

Opposition leader Dr Alfred Sant has attacked the government for reducing the VAT payable on super yachts from 15 to five per cent. Sant said the decrease was unfair and socially unacceptable given that other sectors will have to face a higher tax on their purchases with the increase of VAT from 15 to 18 percent.
The Malta Financial and Business Times is informed that the change aims to attract more business in what is being seen as a niche opportunity prior to EU entry. Speaking to the owner of a yacht supplies business, The Malta Financial and Business Times was told that the idea of the VAT decrease is aimed at attracting foreigners to buy yachts and motor boats in Malta prior to EU entry.
According to the source, Malta will have to pay its VAT on such yachts and motor boats to the EU after membership on 1 May 2004 and the government saw the opportunity to try to attract purchasers to Malta before that time.
According to the legal notice LN 384 of 2003, the rate of VAT on certain seafaring vessels will be 5 percent from 1 December to 31 March. The vessels affected are: yachts and other vessels for pleasure or sport including rowing boats and canoes that are sailboats, with or without motors; sail boats and motor boats of a length exceeding 7.5 metres.
The Malta Financial and Business Times contacted the Malta Maritime Authority, which was not able to provide further information on the matter, and attempted to contact Finance Minister John Dalli for his reaction, but the minister was not available for comment.

End

I have checked this out with my Maltese registration company, and they have confirmed that this offer is in effect and genuine. Here is their response:

Dear Ian;

Please note that it has been definitely established that the special concession for payment of vat is valid until the end of march 2004 at a special reduced rate of 5%.

What is obviously required for this purpose is the following:

a-The attached authority is to be signed by the owner of each yacht and sent back to us in its original form.
b-a photograph of each yacht showing her name and as much of the yacht as possible.
c-a certified copy of the certificate of registration of each yacht
d- if privately owned a copy of the passport of the owner and if company owned a copy of the memorandum and articles of association of the company.
e- confirmation where each yacht is lying and whether each owner can sail here before the end of march for us to make an official valuation of the craft or alternatively we will send somebody to inspect for valuation purposes.

It is preferable if the yacht is registered under the Malta Flag.

So, a good opportunity if it suits you.

Fair Winds

Ian Shepherd SM2000 "Crusader"