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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SNAP, CRACKEL, AND POP?
Dennis Woods <DENNISWOODS@...>
Peter, I too had the same experience in a marina in the med. I spent
virtually all night trying to trace an "electrical short" only to be told by a livaboard that it was fish scraping away the growth from the bottom of the hull. We moved away and it disappeared ! Happy sails Dennis Woods Il Flauto Magico SM 408 _____ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of pjppappas Sent: 09 October 2006 14:59 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SNAP, CRACKEL, AND POP? When below decks I hear a sound that most resembles the sound of rice crispies, or of someone popping very small bubble wrap, or sizzling grease. I am tied to a slip, the hull has recently been cleaned, the zincs are good, and I am plugged in to shore power. Thank you Peter Pappas "Callisto" SM 369
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SNAP, CRACKEL, AND POP?
Michael Glass <mglass@...>
Whe I was docked in Gran Canaria I heard the same sound for 4 days. I was told it was small shrimp (or some such sea life) munching on or around the bottom of the hull. The sound was most pronounced in the aft cabin if you put your ear to the deck. Hope this helps.
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-----Original Message-----
From: pjppappas [mailto:pjppappas@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 9:59 AM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SNAP, CRACKEL, AND POP? When below decks I hear a sound that most resembles the sound of rice crispies, or of someone popping very small bubble wrap, or sizzling grease. I am tied to a slip, the hull has recently been cleaned, the zincs are good, and I am plugged in to shore power. Thank you Peter Pappas "Callisto" SM 369
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SNAP, CRACKEL, AND POP?
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi Peter, Welcome to one of life's mysteries. I first heard this sound about 25 years ago and have heard it on various boats in various harbours. I have yet to hear a definitive explanation for it, though the one that seems most likely to me is that the hull picks up and magnifies the sounds of lots of little sea creatures of some sort, be they worms, mussels or whatever.
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Do let me know if you find the real answer! Ian Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302, Uruguay
From: "pjppappas" <pjppappas@yahoo.com>
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SNAP, CRACKEL, AND POP?
pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
When below decks I hear a sound that most resembles the sound of rice
crispies, or of someone popping very small bubble wrap, or sizzling grease. I am tied to a slip, the hull has recently been cleaned, the zincs are good, and I am plugged in to shore power. Thank you Peter Pappas "Callisto" SM 369
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New owner?
rob purdie <r.purdie@...>
Robin ,
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thank you very much for your detailed advice. This is all so helpful. Regards, ROB.
On 8 Oct 2006, at 16:09, Robin Cooter wrote:
Rob,
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SNAP, CRACKEL, AND POP?
svmalaika@...
Most likely source of the sound is small fish feeding on the inevitable
algae that collects on the hull. I've frequently heard similar sounds. Charlie MALAIKA II SM 336
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New owner?
Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
Rob,
Santorins are generally tough but, as with any boat, there can be problems. A certain amout does depend on age and number as updating does take place. We have an old Santorin and our experience is as follows - Do check the the genoa furling gear to make sure that the Manual/electric changeover leaver is not stuck in electric. Take a look at the base of the the foil and make sure that is solidly attached to the furling gear. Have a look at the furling gear on the mast and make sure the drive unit is well secured and there is no splitting of the metal on the mast where the unit is secured - it is not unknown, will it disengage? Check the anchor winch switches they can be a source of problems - see earlier correpondence. Amels are rather prone to paint blistering on the mast and boom. It can be rubbed down and touched up using a Renault colour car paint but careful inspection will reveal this! Find out if the headlinings are foam backed or felt backed. The older foam back really don't last more than 10 years in hot climates and replacing them are either expensive and, if you do it yourself, a long, messy job. Do check them carefully. In the engine room have a really good look at the right angle drive box on the shaft. If there is any sign of oil leakage be suspicious. If it is a seal on the shaft it can be replaced (means lifting the engine aft a few inches) but if it is a gasket it is a problem as they are no longer made and AMEL want to replace the whole unit at high cost. A sympathetic engineer can make you a replacement gasket but you need somebody who understands AMELs. Also have a good look at the belt driving the shaft charger alternator as if this is worn it means lifting the engine back a few inches to repace -(more expence!) Does it have a spare fitted ready to replace a broken belt? Other AMEL "specialities" that need to be looked at carefully (or find a surveyor who knows about AMELS) is the bow thruster - see it work, look for wear in the lifting wire, look at the prop, some are really chewed up, when was the oil last changed etc.; Have a good look at the stearing gear for wear, chain tightness, quadrant in the after cabin; when its out of the water look for oil leakage around the prop and from the drain cock (port side just forward of the prop.), when were the seals last changed? Those are some of the main points for the Santorin and from there on it's usual type checking the boat before you pay for a survey. However I'm sure that other owners will come back with comments! Regards, Robin. rob purdie <r.purdie@ntlworld.com> wrote: I intent to change from a Rival 41 to an Amel Santorin and have just joined the group. Can any member give me good advice on general survey issues which might not be obvious to a newcomer to the design? --------------------------------- All new Yahoo! Mail "The new Interface is stunning in its simplicity and ease of use." - PC Magazine
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SM chain counter and anchor windlass
John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
Hi Ian,
We have just got back to Malta and seen your posting.My chain counter has always been hopeless at measuring outgoing chain possibly because it runs out so fast. It is useful when up anchoring if we zero the meter and know how much chain is out because it is accurate at the relatively slow speed counting up. The two holes that you mention are there to insert securing bolts to hold the counter mounting nascelle on the side of the winch motor casing.I had to remove this casing when the rubber boot on the up switch needed changing. The switches on the casing are an Amel feature for which holes were drilled about 26mm in diameter to take switches of 22mm diameter on a curved surface. The Turkish agent for Lofrans naturally had no spares but he sent me two smaller push switches plus a gasket for the casing for 50 euros. The chandlery changed the switches for 22mm ones but these had a different fine thread to the Amel ones which also have a locating flange on the securing nuts so I merely used the new boots on the original switches and like Amel used a lot of silicone to seal them in place. When the casing is off it exposes the wiring feeding the motor(three wires) plus three wires from the switches to the solenoids and the wiring from the chain counter which is connected to the wiring harness in the space in the motor housing. We have never been very happy with the placement of the anchor up switch as Anne likes to lean over the pulpit to watch the chain coming up etc and the switch is very badly placed for watching someone being hoisted up the mast on the windlass rope drum. So I bought a deck mounting foot switch made by Quick, the other Italian winch maker for 15euros and mounted it forward on the deck, portside, just ahead of the builtin conduit for the port nav light and connected it to the wiring harness. The wires to the switches are two in a pale yellow colour and one in a pale orange and the connections have to made in the port foredeck locker because the wiring out of the windlass and into the solenoids etc in the forward cabin is thoroughly waterproofed with large quantities of silicone sealant. Best wishes to you, Anne and John, SM319
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Re: regular service for the 220V high pressure watermaker pump?
asm283 <no_reply@...>
Hi Mark
Yes the pump oilneeds to be changed every 500 hours or every few years. It is quite a simple procedure. make sure you use the proper CAT oil for the pump. I understand its some kind of soy/vegetable oil that will not contaminate the water in case of a leak. Vito ASM 283 Wanderer --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "markmpitt" <mark_pitt@...> wrote: Does the 220V high-pressure pump require some kind of regular service? I
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM chain counter
Dr. Seidel <mseidel@...>
Re:chain counter-Sundance, sm349 has the same problem.ie. counts up in seconds. Will tackle this winter and post it if we can solve it. Murray Seidel, Wilmington, N.C.
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@spidernet.com.cy> To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 4:09 AM Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM chain counter Hello Mike,
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regular service for the 220V high pressure watermaker pump?
Mark Pitt
I have a Super Maramu with the 150 liter per hour watermaker. Does
the 220V high-pressure pump require some kind of regular service? I do not have any documentation recommending any maintenance but I want to be certain before I head out to sea. It is the "Cat Pump" with the blue oil reservoir and the faucet drain. Do I need to change oil or seals? The pump works fine. Mark "Sabbatical III" ASM #419
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New owner?
rob purdie <r.purdie@...>
I intent to change from a Rival 41 to an Amel Santorin
and have just joined the group. Can any member give me good advice on general survey issues which might not be obvious to a newcomer to the design?
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Santorin Owners Manual
john.stonier@btinternet.com <john.stonier@...>
I just purchased Santorin #143 Allegra, the second to last built. The
previous owner is French, and only has the French owners manual. I sent an e-mail to Amel 2 weeks ago and have had no response. Can anyone help me get a copy of this. I also understand Amel produce a CDROM for the Super Maramu. Would it make sense to purchase this from Amel as many of the systems are the same ? thanks john stonier
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head pump
georges pellegrini <dji314@...>
Yes, I have it on my Santorin. Installed by the factory.
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Georges Pellegrini. Santorin #132
On Sep 19, 2006, at 6:43 PM, joemac4sail wrote:
Hi AllHas anyone retrofitted in a Satorin, a simiar designed holdingsimplicity of the design with the tank sitting over the outlet >valve.
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Re: Fresh Water Pressure
milesbidwell <mbidwell@...>
The problem is most likely caused by blockage between the pump and
the pressure sensor. To fix this, remove the pyramid shaped connector between the pump and the adjustment box by removing the many small screws attaching it to the pump. Inside you will see a small hole that allows water to push against a membrane in the control box. Cleaning out the hole will probably fix the problem. --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote: of which has much effect. My problem is with the low setting at whichthe pump should turn on.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Head pump
milesbidwell <mbidwell@...>
I have found that two liters of pickling strength vinegar and fresh
water pumped through the toilet into the holding tank once a month makes the jocker valves last much long and largly stops any backflow. When ever I see any sign of backflow, I change the jocker valve. This usually fixes the problem for at least two or three months. --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Udo J. Reich" <udo@...> wrote: solutions. One is a one way valve as Gary has suggested. The other one would be torefit the tank so that the inflow from the bowl goes into the tank towardsthe top of the tank. Let me know if you come up with any solutionscheck valvesBesides being unpleasant at anchor, this can be a mess under sail."have changed the joker valve several times, but it makes littledifference." originally thought it was water siphoning from the fill pump side but I shutoff the sea water supply valve while under sail and the toilet bowlfilled with foul water anyway. It was only to a certain level and neverwould overflow the bowl so I think it was just the back flow through theso I don't think it is related to the mode of entry of the outflow pipepipe and thus would have a higher head of pressure. Perhaps installing a
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solar panels
john martin <symoondog@...>
I've just installed 2 130 watt solar panels on my SM .I put them on the top of the aft cabin, attached to the hand rails,with stainless steel tubing and clamps. The only hole I drilled in the boat was a small hole in the back of the missen mast to run the wire. I used the new solar boaster, and it seems to work great. I should be able to leave the boat at anchor or on the hard for a few days and keep the fridge and freezer going. I posted a few pictures of it under moondogs file if any ones interested. John 'Moondog' Sm248
_________________________________________________________________ Try the new Live Search today! http://imagine-windowslive.com/minisites/searchlaunch/?locale=en-us&;FORM=WLMTAG
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(No subject)
Robert C. Lavigne <rcl@...>
At risk of repeating someone's suffering .....I came across this the other day
http://www.cooperss.com/assetdetail.php?show=marine&;ID=24043&P=A
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Rio Dulce - draft limitations of bar entrance
We're planning on heading toward Mexico, Belize and beyond this
winter. Rio Dulce also sounds tempting to visit. One of the SSCA members had this to say about maximum draft when I asked him today. Steve Pavlidis of S/V IV Play wrote: A 6' can cross the bar at most times, a 7' draft must wait for a high tide, and tides there run only about 1'-1.5' at times, but it is doable. I've seen 7 1/2' drafts come in, and one 8' draft that had to be hauled over the bar. Just make sure you get a good read on the tides at the mouth of the river, most tide programs will handle this. I've just sounded the bar again for the 12th time and the results will be out in my new guide. If you put the sea buoy on your stern and steer 225 for the center of the canyon mouth you won't have less than six feet at MLW. But you MUST watch out for the tide here that when on the flood will push you to the south and on the ebb to the north where the shallower water lies. Then, when you're over the bar, continue until you're past the Texaco fuel dock before turning to starboard to anchor, most folks turn too soon and run aground. Steve publishes cruising guides. Check out www.islandhopping.com Best regards Richard Tate SM "Spice"
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Re: Head pump
joseph mc donnell
Hi All Has anyone retrofitted in a Satorin, a simiar designed holdingsimplicity of the design with the tank sitting over the outlet >valve. Joe McDonnell, Khamsin B --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Willem J. Kroes" <willem.j.kroes@...> wrote:
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