Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@...

<

There was a lot of stuff about anchors in this site about a couple of
months ago. All anchors need to be deployed properly in uncompromising
bottoms and none is perfect in all conditions. However the CQR was a good
design 60 years ago but has passed its sell by date!
Regards. Anne and John Bali Hai, SM319

Thank you for your advice, surely I will get the Spade 30kg.Good luck in Chile.
Saludos,Luis "Aloysius"

Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Dear Luis, We have had excellent results from our 30 kg Spade, from Europe
to Chile.Having used a cqr, Bruce and Delta on a variety of boats I really
think that, weight for weight, this anchor is a significant breakthrough in
design and performance.Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302, Chile

From: "l_gonzalezvallejo" <l_gonzalezvallejo@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchors
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 10:42:16 -0000

Hello from Alicante,Spain,
I am looking for an anchor to replace the original CQR,I thank your
advice,type and recommended weight.
Regards
Luis





Yahoo! Groups Links

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of 56k? Get a FREE BT Broadband connection
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband



---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



---------------------------------

Antivirus #8226; Filtros antispam #8226; 6 MB gratis
¿Todavía no tienes un correo inteligente?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dear Luis, We have had excellent results from our 30 kg Spade, from Europe to Chile.Having used a cqr, Bruce and Delta on a variety of boats I really think that, weight for weight, this anchor is a significant breakthrough in design and performance.Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302, Chile

From: "l_gonzalezvallejo" <l_gonzalezvallejo@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchors
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 10:42:16 -0000

Hello from Alicante,Spain,
I am looking for an anchor to replace the original CQR,I thank your
advice,type and recommended weight.
Regards
Luis





Yahoo! Groups Links

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of 56k? Get a FREE BT Broadband connection http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

Thank you so much for your quick reply.
Luis
"Aloysius"

Randy Kilmon <drifter01us@...> wrote:
We replaced our CQR with a Spade (66 pounds). We
highly recommend it.
Randy Kilmon
"Drifter"



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



---------------------------------

Antivirus #8226; Filtros antispam #8226; 6 MB gratis
¿Todavía no tienes un correo inteligente?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We replaced our CQR with a Spade (66 pounds). We
highly recommend it.
Randy Kilmon
"Drifter"



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

Hello from Alicante,Spain,
I am looking for an anchor to replace the original CQR,I thank your
advice,type and recommended weight.
Regards
Luis

1985 Amel Maramu for sale in Ft Lauderdale by owner
Hull peeled and epoxied and awlgripped
Deck awlgripped 2 yrs ago
Masts awlgripped 2 yr ago
Mainsail and Jib new 3yr ago used lightly
Generator, Airconditioned
new refrigerator
new freezer
new raymarine radar
new gps
interior cushions reupholstered of white
loads of spare parts
lovingly maintained
$185,000.00 U.S.
Serious inquiries only please
email TC215@...

Thank you to you all for your replies regarding my request for information on spreader failures on Amel Super Maramu 2000's. It would seem that our manufacturer is not always generous with the truth. The real value of this site is that those of us who have parted with our hard earned cash can freely exchange information here and find out what is really going on with our boats. Let me tell you what has happened to mine.

Last October my 11 week old Super Maramu 2000 'Crusader' was dismasted off the coast of Newfoundland when the weld at the root of the mainmast portside lower spreader failed. Professional analysis of the failure by an independent company showed that the weld had not been prepared at all, had not penetrated the metal throughout the circumference of the spreader tube, was too thin, and was full of porosity due to insufficient argon being used during the process. The failure had started at the trailing edge and the crack had started some time before the spreader completely failed and the mast broke.

When I expressed concern to Amel's chairman about the fact that our spreaders consist of a simple aluminium butt weld of a 6 foot arm to a stamped bracket with no pinned insert like more conventional designs, his reply was "If you have no confidence in our design, then sell your boat!" Unbelievable words to someone who has had to buy two Super Maramu's in the past three years due to a design fault. There is no doubt in my mind now that the A in Amel stands for arrogance.

My first boat sank just 27 months old whilst moored to a dock in Granada whilst I visited my dying father. The retractable bow thruster fell out of the boat after the shaft tube broke in two following wear around the fixing bolts due to the back torque of the motor. The bow thruster was not in use at the time and no one was on board. The waves lapped up through the hole and filled the front cabin till she went down. More about that later.

Amel are refusing to honour their warranty and fix the new boat as they claim that I was misusing the boat at the time. I was sailing downwind with an apparent wind of 140 degrees to starboard at 14 knots. The genoa was poled out to port as there was insufficient wind to hold it steady in the sloppy seas. Amel claim that it is written in the users manual that the poles can only be used when the wind is exactly 180 degrees from the bow. I see no reference to that in my manual. Is it in yours?

The only reference that I can see is that when using both the genoa and ballooner, you can sail downwind in this configuration with the wind up to 20 degrees off the stern. The limitation is presumably due to the windward sail beginning to back, though I have found in practice that by easing the windward sheet, you can scratch a wind angle of 30 degrees off the stern in reasonably smooth sea conditions.

I see no reference at all to not using a single pole at any angle that will fill the genoa. Is anyone aware of any such limitation? If there is one, then I can only say 'what a terrible design', and I would certainly not have bought a yacht that does not allow you to pole out the headsail. I have sailed my two Amels over 29,000 nms in 30 months and have often poled out the genoa alone without mishap. I would appreciate your thoughts on Amel's interpretation.

Meanwhile, I would strongly urge you to inspect your spreaders for cracks, especially on recent boats as Amel have switched the fabrication of these critical components to a sub contractor in La Rochelle.

Regarding my bow thruster failure, many of you will have received an alert from Amel in late 2002 asking you to inspect your bow thruster where the 4 bolts went through the motor housing and into the tube. Although Amel never admitted that they got it wrong, they never the less radically altered the bow thruster design and the drainage out of the bow cabin into the bilge. They have done a good job in putting the problem right, though that is small compensation having lost my home and personal effects, as well as putting my cruising plans back to square one. Not now once, but twice.

Of course, like the situation of the spreaders, Amel will only say that I was the only one to have a problem. I know this now not to be true. What I would like to know is just what did you find when you inspected your bow thrusters? Were the holes through the tube elongated by the Alan bolts? Had the bronze ring inside the tube that is held by a single countersunk screw worked loose too? If you found that you were developing problems too, then please let me know at my private email address of g4ljf@... . Your replies will of course be treated with the strictest confidence as were the replies concerning the spreaders.

Enjoy your sailing whilst I endure another frustrating winter back in Europe. I wish you better luck than I have had with my Amels.

Fair Winds

Ian Shepherd

SM # 414 'Crusader'

Dear Mr. Duddy,

The sailmaker with the most experience by far making Amel sails here in the
U.S.A. is Peter Grimm Jr. He is partnered in the local Doyle loft here in
Fort Lauderdale, but can build private label sails that are, to my seasoned
and terminally thrifty eye, the best sails for the money available anywhere.
Peter ships sails to our clients world wide and to the best of my knowledge,
has yet to have an unresolved complaint. He's very good. You can trust
him. He will give you my discount, 20%. Can't beat it.

You can reach Peter at: peter@... or phone: 1(954) 462-3695.
Hope this helps.

Joel F. Potter
Super Maramu, Hull #400 "MARY BROWN"

Thank you for your input.

I just replaced my main with Airforce sails from Sailnet Charleston S.C. speak to Tom. They have Amel logo. 4 week service

kimberlt <kimberlt@...> wrote:TRY DOYLE SAILMAKERS- MARK WASHEIM HUNTINGTON NEW YORK.
ERIC

TRY DOYLE SAILMAKERS- MARK WASHEIM HUNTINGTON NEW YORK.
ERIC

Hello,

Is anyone familiar with sail makers who have made sails for a Sharki in the
New England (U.S.A.) area? I would like to contact them. Thanks for your
help.

Roy Duddy
Unwineding # 123
175 Route 101
Bedford, NH 03110
603-472-8500
603-472-7333 Fax
rduddy.duddylawoffices@...

Has anyone ever retro fitted a shaft generator to an SM with a Volvo?Any views on ease and price much appreciated. Ian and Judy, Pen Azen. SM 302

_________________________________________________________________
It's fast, it's easy and it's free. Get MSN Messenger today! http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

I just got the anode changed in the water heater on my S.M. Now the Volvo doesn't heat the water, and it seems to have too much coolant in spite of the spillage during reinstallation of the water heater. Obviously, I have a large amount of air in the circuit.
What is the easiest and most appropriate way to remove this air?
Thanks. Bill on S/V Lady Sadie
-------------------------------------------------
Do not push the "reply" button to respond to this
message if that includes the text of this original
message in your response. Messages are sent over a
very low-speed radio link.

The most concise way to reply is to send a NEW message
to: WCZ4455@...
If you DO use your reply button, be sure to delete
the original message text and these instructions
from your reply.

Replies should not contain attachments and should be
less than 5 kBytes (2 text pages) in length.

This email was delivered by an HF private coast station
in the Maritime Mobile Radio Service, operated by the
SailMail Association, a non-profit association of yacht
owners. For more information on this service or on the
SailMail Association, please see the web site at:
http://www.sailmail.com

I have a complete set of sunbrella covers for a Mango I would like to
sell . They were sown years ago, are in new condition and have never been used.
They are located in Port Towsend Wa. They are for sale for $1000 plus
shipping. My family of 4 and I have just purchased Mango hull # 15 , the name is
S.V. Eshamy.

Dear Gary,
I met Jim woods at c&f and visited his marina. I did not realize that
Liahona was your boat. Kimberlite is in St Thomas now and we will be
down in mid FEB. and mid March. When in march will you be down?

The screws are visible when the boat is hauled and the rudder is turned.
You will see a screw that holds the rudder bearing in place. It is a
simple twist with a screwdriver.
Fair winds,
Eric

Jan 26, 2004

Hi Eric:

I am back in Utah but our boat (Liahona) is at the Woods Marina in
Sea Cow Bay, Tortola (about 2 miles south of Road Town along the
south eastern coast of Tortola). We will be back down there in
March. It is the next bay north of Nanny Cay. We had been on the
hard at Nanny Cay for the hurricane season but they didn't have any
slips available for us upon launching. Jim Woods is an exceptional
marina manager and very accomadating and it was signifcantly cheaper
than Nanny Cay to boot.

I have the fresh air ventilation system but I do not have the diesel
heater.

What do you need to check on the rudder screws that you mentioned?

Regards, Gary

Gary,
are you still in tortola? do you have the diesel heater option?
eric
kimberlite


--- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

Jan 24, 2004
Hi Stephan:

Sorry to be so slow to answer: I am a new (and first time boat

owner

although I am a FAA certified aircraft mechanic and am used to
turning a wrench or two). We have had our Amel SM Hull #335 since
July 2003. Our first haul out was at the 1 & 1/2 year mark,

having

been in Caribbean waters for about 9 months. The bottom was in

good

shape but because I wasn't sure how long to expect it to stay that
way we did the bottom paint. Amel recommends a hard bottom paint
(thus I believe this is a non-ablative type paint that you must

scrub

periodically). In checking with multiple sources the concensis

was

that if you sail alot then an ablative paint works well because

the

motion stirs things up and provides exposure of new paint. If you
don't sail a great deal (me, only about 4 months a year) then the
hard paint is better but must be periodically scrubbed. I chose
Petit Trinidad SR (a hard Slime Retardant paint) based on

discussions

with various yards in the Caribbean. It took 5 gallons to put 2
coats on everything and a third coat at the water line down about

18

inches (This is reportedly what the Moorings boats do). The paint
was about $155 USD in Grenada where I had it done. All they did

was

scuff sand the existing paint to provide tooth adhesion and put

the

new paint on with a roller. It has held up well for 14 months now
and I did one scrubbing using 3M pads and two scuba tanks of air
(about a 5 hour job). At our haul out for the hurricane season

the

bottom looked great. It is evidently imparative not to put a hard
paint over an ablative paint. I am told that it will flake off.

I have replaced the zincs twice. We are only in marinas hooked to
shore power for brief periods and when the zincs are about 50%

gone I

replaced them. Joel tells me that they may go in a few months or
last a year or more based on where the boat is and various marina
power scenarios etc. I guess I am about average at 15 months per
set.

I just changed the seals and the bronze prop shaft bushing with

about

400 hrs on the engine. There was no evidence of oil leakage at the
prop shaft. The oil was clean and there was very little wear on

the

bushing. I suspect they would have easily gone to 1000 hours.

The procedure for changing the seals and busing isn't documented
anywhere so I thought I might tell you about my experience. I
purchased new "O" rings based on the drawing from Amel but my boat
has the rope cutter insalled and the "O" rings on the drain plug

are

a different size than depicted on the plain drain plug drawing.

The

chandlery in Nanny Cay had the correct size "O" ring. I don't

know

what size "O" ring I ended up with but it would be worth checking
with Amel for the correct size for you application. The "0" rings

on

the bushing were supplied on mine spare from Amel. Exactly 8.5
liters of very clean oil drained from the drive and I used a

syringe

to get all that I could out of the bottom of the drive as

described

by Amel. I used some penetrant oil the night before on all the

set

screws that hold the rope cutter in place and they all cam out
easily. The various spacers and cutter came off the shaft and the
bushing slid out very nicely. This left the three seals in

place.

There may be various ways to remove the seals but what we did is
drilled two small holes on each side of the seal, screwed a sheet
metal screw into the two holes and used a slide hammer connected

to

the screws to pull the seal out. Then we drilled two more holes

in

the next seal and repeated this process two more times. The seals
came out easily using this method. Prying etc would have been a
bigger chore. Some people collapse the seals with a punch but I

was

afraid this might damage the prop shaft. The new seals slid in

and

were tapped into place using an appropriately size piece of pipe
about 14 inches long. I will measure this next time I am on the

boat

and post the dimensions because the size must be quite exact to

fit

the seal and it must be long enough to extend beyond the end of

the

prop shaft. Anyone doing this job themselves might want to put
together a tool kit that included this pipe (seal driver). Once

the

seals are in place the bushing was inserted and pushed in so that

its

most aft portion is flush with the drive housing. Then all the

other

stuff (cutter and spacers, prop etc) were re-assembled and the

drive

was filled with 8.5 liters of 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil. I used
Lanicote on the prop shaft becuase I understand it will prevent
dissimilar metal corrosion.

When I removed the prop originally (which we did for the Autoprop
recall) we had a very difficult time. We had the Amel prop puller
and actually stretched the bolts to breaking once. All the

tapping

and pulling we exerted didn't seem to help. Many folks gathered
around in the yard to offer a host of suggestions but finally what
work almost instantaneously was tapping around the circumference

of

the prop hub on the forward aspect of the hub. There wasn't a

spec

of corrosion or anything else holding the prop in place, just a

good

tight tapered shaft and Woodruff key.

I just had the fresh water pump fail. Fortunately I had a spare

and

promptly installed it. Upon disassembly of the original pump I

found

the pump housing, bronze impeller and motor shaft all pristine. A
plain steel Woodruff key was used by the manufacturer and it was
completely corroded away so that the impeller just spun on the

motor

shaft. I have tried un-successfully to find stainless steel or
bronze Woodruff Keys. I am going to manufature my own from

stainless

steel. Seems odd though that they would put a mild steel key in a
pump like this.

I have changed the finger zinc in the Onan genset once and it was
about 50% gone. I was able to obtain several more from my local

Onan

dealer here in the US.

I have ordered the water heater zincs from West Marine who had to
order them from Plastimo. It has been six weeks and I am still
waiting. West Marine/Plastimo wanted about $50.00 each for them.

I

didn't price them from Amel because the one I originally bought

from

Amel was the incorrect size. I only discovered that after the

messy

job of opening the water heater.

One other job that is important as far as preventive maintenance

is

winch overhauls. I ordered the book from Lewmar and an overhaul
kit. Mostly you need the Lewmar grease, some plastic buckets to

use

to soak and scrub the various parts in some mineral spirits, a

soft

bristled brush to help wash with and a few small brushes to apply

the

grease with. All of our winches were in great shape after 1.5

years,

including a trans-atlantic. Lewmar says they should be overhauled

3

times per season. If you did that with 11 winches you would spend
your entire season overhauling winches. It took me about 1 to 2
hours per winch to overhaul them based on the size of the winch.

It

is fairly straight forward (just remember for sure how you took

them

apart). The only winches that showed any signs of distress were
those on the main mast since they have so much greater sea water
exposure. I will plan to do them twice per year from now on. The
others will do nicely being done once a year based on my use.

I haven't yet tackled the bow thruster work. If there is anybody

out

there that could give details of the process it would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Sea Cow Bay, Tortola



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Stephan Regulinski"
<stephreg@y...> wrote:

We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can

anyone

advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is

best

done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change

the

seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am

I

missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)

Hi,
i am thinking of adding a diesel heater to my existing forced air
system.
Is there anyone either near new york or in the virgin islands that
has this option that i may take a look at?
fair winds,
eric
sm 376 Kimberlite