Eric,

If you haven't found the web site, try: www.antiqueboat.com
The Striper is found by going to the tab for the boat store and
searching for "striper". By the way, the striper is now shown as
produced by "Marshalltown" not "Embee".

Stephan

S/V Delos (SM303)


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "eric freedman"
<kimberlite@...> wrote:

John,
i couldn't find that website.
Fair winds,
eric
sm 376 kimberlite


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali

Hai"

<annejohn@> wrote:

I have a 30amp plus a 50amp charger. They are It seems to me

programmed

sso that the 30 should be turned on first and the other after a

minute

od so to let the charge rate stabilise. The 50amp one does not

take the

volts up to 28.8 and indeed does nothing much once the volts

reach

about 27 whereas the 30amp one will take them up to 28.6.
At one time Amel told me that the output can be increased by

carefully

scraping the red locking varnish off the left hand trimmer in

the

middle and near the bottom of the board and turning it clockwise

to

increase the volts. I tried this and broke the trimmer...perhaps

I

should have asked a technician to replace the trimmer in the

first

place.
The chargers are standard models altered to meet Amel's spec. I

sent

mine back to the Reya's factory in the south of France and asked

them

to repair it and also to change it back to the standard spec.

which

they did and all has been well since. The contact is an Irish

girl

whose name is Lucy Kelly lucy.kelly at reya.com
Eric,
After spending a long time Googling I have found a supplier for

the

striper. contact louatantiqueboat.com and specify Embee Striper

Model

No 1100 for $29.99. There is a lot of help on painting the

stripes if

you enter words like false teak decks in the search box on this

site.

Would people please list the subject of their messages so that

the

search machine can do it's job.

Regards, Anne and John SM319

Mark,

My wife, two kids and I spent about a year (2004 to 2005) at the
Tauranga Bridge Marina, Tauranga, NZ, aboard our SM2000, "Delos". Our
friends, Chuck, Tab and Family were also there in their
SM2000, "Revelation". We had Delos hauled in the marina and had the
usual work done (bottom paint, minor gel coat repairs, hull polish,
etc.). As usual, I did the bow thruster, sail drive and propellor
servicing. While back in the water we took advantage of the time to
get some other work done: stainless steel work, new bimini, new
upholstery, new carpet, etc.

The Bridge Marina staff are friendly and welcoming and the marina
itself has the usual amenities. It is located close to town (walk,
bike, bus) and has a fine array of boat and support services
(chandleries, welding, rigging, sails, etc.). Since we were staying
for a year, we bought a car at auction for about $3000 US and sold it
a year later for about $2000 US. Used cars are imported from Japan by
the boat load and sold at auction in New Zealand. This is about the
cheapest way to acquire a car and the most convenient way to dispose
of one when you are done.

Tauranga is about two hours by car outside of Aukland and you can take
a puddle jumper from Tauranga airport to Aukland and connect on to the
US or take the shuttle bus. It is a day sail from Aukland to
Tauranga.

The marina is located on the river, near the mouth, and has
considerable tidal flow, which is only important when it is time to
dock. It is also the site of a large commercial port, so the entrance
marking is excellent.

Since our kids had been boat schooled for four years and were
interested in attending a "real" school for a change, we enrolled
them in the local schools, which we found to be not only friendly and
welcoming, but academically excellent.

All that said about Tauranga, there are many excellent marinas in New
Zealand, and we have heard good things about many of them.
Interestingly, while we stayed in Aukland itself and knew others who
did the same, no one we know stayed in Aukland long term. Like a lot
of big cities, the rates for the most convenient locations are high,
and the cheap marinas are distant from the very things that would
motivate you to stay in Aukland in the first place. If you want to
visit Aukland, I would recommend that you add it to your sailing
itinerary for a week or two, but plan to keep your boat somewhere else
long term.

Fair winds and following seas,

Stephan
S/V Delos (SM303)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "markmpitt" <mark_pitt@...>
wrote:

My wife and I are currently in Moorea and plan to bring "Sabbatical
III", our Super Maramu, to New Zealand in November. We will return

to

the States so that I can go back to work for 6 months. We will then
return to New Zealand in May 2008 to take Sabbatical III cruising
again. Can anyone suggest a good place to leave her in New Zealand
where there may be some past experience servicing Amels?

Mark Pitt
"Sabbatical III" ASM #419

Hello all, one other part of this is to grease the
bushing/bearing that allows the shaft of rotate That
is more then likely the source of the noise. I
noticed that when I took mine apart the bushing was
dry.
Good luck and fairwinds
Richard SM 209


--- rbenven44 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Gary, just a couple of observations from my
experiences with the
outhaul gearbox. Last year, it started making lots
of noise, so I
tried several remedies: penetrating oil,
disassembly, etc. I was not
able to remove the shaft (because I used a stainless
bolt to try to
punch it up). I eventually removed the motor and
opened up the gearbox
(in place on the boom), removed as much grease as I
could, and
inspected the gears, which looked quite good. I
added clean grease,
closed it up, and concentrated on the shaft, which I
think is the
source of the noise and binding. After much
lubricating and
penetrating oil, I was able to reduce the noise by
70%, and the shaft
rotated freely.
This year, the noise has increased a bit, and I will
try Eric's
approach to remove the shaft (using a steel bolt,
not a stainless
one). I hope the problem is a rusted shaft, and not
a corroded
gearbox, but we shall see.
We'll be interested in your findings.

Roy on Excalibur, SM #195

____________________________________________________________________________________
Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7

Richard, Roy, & Eric:

Thanks for your responses related to servicing the outhaul gearbox and
drive.

I am beginning to get a picture in my mind of the process and structure
of the assembly. I will take more photo's and post more once I have
accomplished the project.

Regards, Gary

Gary, just a couple of observations from my experiences with the
outhaul gearbox. Last year, it started making lots of noise, so I
tried several remedies: penetrating oil, disassembly, etc. I was not
able to remove the shaft (because I used a stainless bolt to try to
punch it up). I eventually removed the motor and opened up the gearbox
(in place on the boom), removed as much grease as I could, and
inspected the gears, which looked quite good. I added clean grease,
closed it up, and concentrated on the shaft, which I think is the
source of the noise and binding. After much lubricating and
penetrating oil, I was able to reduce the noise by 70%, and the shaft
rotated freely.
This year, the noise has increased a bit, and I will try Eric's
approach to remove the shaft (using a steel bolt, not a stainless
one). I hope the problem is a rusted shaft, and not a corroded
gearbox, but we shall see.
We'll be interested in your findings.

Roy on Excalibur, SM #195

_____

From: sailamel [mailto:sailamel@optonline.net]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 8:39 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: FW: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings



Hi,

I do not recall the thread size. It is metric. Stainless bolts are too soft
to use to drive out the shaft. this is a VERY simple project.

I don't think you can use penetrating oil.

I did not take the gearbox apart.

I do not know if there is a bearing below the winch, I guess not.

you will need some metric grommets if you remove the motor mounts.

I also wire brushed the gearbox primed it and used epoxy white to repaint.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 6:14 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings



Thanks for the clarification Eric.

I have updated and posted a third picture to the photo folder
related to Outhaul Service. If I understand correctly, the bolt
depicted on the bottom of the gearbox in photo number 3 is
the one you remove, then install a long steel bolt in its place to
drive the shaft vertically upwards. A couple of questions:

1. Do you know the bolt size (thread size)? I presume it is metric.

2. Is it possible to drip some penetrating oil down the shaft and
have it enter the keyway area to help loosen up the rust?

3. Have you dis-assembled the gearbox and overhauled the
internal items? If so can you describe your findings and that
process.

4. Is there a bearing pressed into the main boom beneath the
Anderson Winch?

Thanks again for your thoughts.

Gary

Graham,



Last month I took delivery of a set on new sails from Voiles Gateff in
Toulon, France. The sails do not have battens, but the improved boat
performance is remarkable. The sails are considerably larger than the
original Amel sails which were also made by Gateff. The new sails are made
of Hydra-net, a new woven spectra material that is replacing laminates.
(see the internet for more information on the material). The sails are all
tri-radial and the shapes are beautiful. As Gateff promised, the boat is
faster in light winds and tacks in a smaller angle.



The sails are not cheap, but the shear increased fun in sailing the boat
makes them worthwhile. I suggest looking into these sails when you do your
evaluation of alternatives.



Happy sailing,



Miles Bidwell

Aboard LADYBUG

SM 216

Eric, your memory is correct. The biggest problem we
had is that the bolt in the top of the winch was
stripped and had to be tapped again. As there is no
load in the "up-down tenision" direction this should
not be and issue... Getting motor parts can be
depending on the year of the motor.
Richard SM 209


--- kimberlite <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:

Hi,

Let me explain and redefine some of my previous
comments.

The vertical shaft that turns the Anderson outhaul
winch is what I refer to
as the motor shaft.

If I remember correctly it is welded to the arm that
is on top of the
Anderson winch and attaches to the winch with the
one visible stainless
screw. This holds the top of the shaft in place. The
bottom of the shaft is
held in by a bolt on the other end of this shaft. In
the middle of the shaft
( not visible) is a key which locks into the motor
gearbox key way. It is
usually rusted in place. To remove the shaft,

Remove the screw on the Anderson winch ,

Remove the bolt on the other end of the shaft.

Insert a long steel ( not stainless) and drive it up
with a small sledge
hammer ( lump hammer).

As soon as the keyway clears the gearbox the shaft
comes out easily. When
re installing use an anti seize compound.

Fair winds

Eric sm 376 kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 1:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul
Gearbox & Bearins



Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the
outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the
Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the
outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in
place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw
it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and
out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled
"Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I
have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some
clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom
panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws
from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel on
the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'.
The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here
threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to
the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch
head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through
which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The
paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some aluminum
aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing
this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335





[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]

____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469

Thanks for the clarification Eric.

I have updated and posted a third picture to the photo folder
related to Outhaul Service. If I understand correctly, the bolt
depicted on the bottom of the gearbox in photo number 3 is
the one you remove, then install a long steel bolt in its place to
drive the shaft vertically upwards. A couple of questions:

1. Do you know the bolt size (thread size)? I presume it is metric.

2. Is it possible to drip some penetrating oil down the shaft and
have it enter the keyway area to help loosen up the rust?

3. Have you dis-assembled the gearbox and overhauled the
internal items? If so can you describe your findings and that
process.

4. Is there a bearing pressed into the main boom beneath the
Anderson Winch?

Thanks again for your thoughts.

Gary

Hi,

Let me explain and redefine some of my previous comments.

The vertical shaft that turns the Anderson outhaul winch is what I refer to
as the motor shaft.

If I remember correctly it is welded to the arm that is on top of the
Anderson winch and attaches to the winch with the one visible stainless
screw. This holds the top of the shaft in place. The bottom of the shaft is
held in by a bolt on the other end of this shaft. In the middle of the shaft
( not visible) is a key which locks into the motor gearbox key way. It is
usually rusted in place. To remove the shaft,

Remove the screw on the Anderson winch ,

Remove the bolt on the other end of the shaft.

Insert a long steel ( not stainless) bolt and drive it up with a small
sledge
hammer ( lump hammer).

As soon as the keyway clears the gearbox the shaft comes out easily. When
re installing use an anti seize compound.

Fair winds

Eric sm 376 kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 1:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearins

Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled "Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel on the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'. The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some aluminum aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335

Hi,

Let me explain and redefine some of my previous comments.

The vertical shaft that turns the Anderson outhaul winch is what I refer to
as the motor shaft.

If I remember correctly it is welded to the arm that is on top of the
Anderson winch and attaches to the winch with the one visible stainless
screw. This holds the top of the shaft in place. The bottom of the shaft is
held in by a bolt on the other end of this shaft. In the middle of the shaft
( not visible) is a key which locks into the motor gearbox key way. It is
usually rusted in place. To remove the shaft,

Remove the screw on the Anderson winch ,

Remove the bolt on the other end of the shaft.

Insert a long steel ( not stainless) and drive it up with a small sledge
hammer ( lump hammer).

As soon as the keyway clears the gearbox the shaft comes out easily. When
re installing use an anti seize compound.

Fair winds

Eric sm 376 kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 1:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearins



Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled "Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel on the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'. The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some aluminum aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335

We have also had the out haul motor fail due to a
brush welding itself to the housing. We could find no
24 volt brushes so we have ordered a new motor from a
shop here in NH. Once we install and test it we will
share the results. The price is about $450 with the
remachineing of the housing as the Leroy Somers motor
is no longer made?
Eric is right on about taking the motor off. As far
as paint goes we wire brushed the housing washed it
with white vinigar and applied deck paint to it. We
shall see.

best to all.
Richard SM 209
--- amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the
outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the
Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the
outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in
place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw
it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and
out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled
"Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I
have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some
clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom
panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws
from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel
on the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'.
The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here
threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to
the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch
head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through
which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The
paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some
aluminum aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing
this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335

____________________________________________________________________________________
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow

Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled "Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel on the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'. The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some aluminum aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335

Hi,

The blue seas voltmeter and frequency meter is shown on kimberlites photos.

Also a photo of my muffler meltdown. I had a muffler shop make me a metal
one, but I still installed the Borel high temp exhaust alarm.

There is a high water alarm switch already mounted on the sole of my engine
room to the starboard of my a/c raw water pump. It was stock with the boat.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 11:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electronics Needs



Frank Newton
Boat # 321

RE: Electronics suggestions:

I would recommend installing a bilge pump run-on-alarm (alarms if the bilge
pump runs
for more than a programmed time limit, I use two minutes) and exhaust
temperature
alarms. Both are available from http://www.borelmfg
<http://www.borelmfg.com/index.html> .com/index.html ( www dot
borelmfg dot com).

I don't see the run on alarm on Borel's current web site, but if you call
them I am sure they
can provide it.

The temp sensors may save you from a meltdown of the water muffler or hose/
or both if
the injector nozel becomes blocked and the run on alarm will give early
warning that the
bilge is filling with water, (sooner than after the bilge pump has been
running for an hour
trying to keep up), and finally falls behind.

Additional suggestions are: Electronic salinity sensor for the water maker
as the
Dessalator salinity sensor DOES NOT WORK. and the Blue Sea's Digital
Multimeter on the
220 volt panel so you always know your power consumption, frequency, and
voltage.

Pictures of both of the last items are in the photo section under watermaker
as I recall.

Regards, Gary

Thanks Ann and John,
this is my thinking too,
Michael #345


--- Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@melita.net.mt>
wrote:

Hello Michael,
The seals are easily bought from a shop dealing in
bearings and seals. The bronze wearing fitting is
also easily made by any competent machinist
especialy as the measurements are not super critical
since one side is the new lip seals and the other an
O ring. Have a couple made up so you are ready for
the next time.

____________________________________________________________________________________
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting

Reason for exhaust temp sensor:

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/view/21f0?b=1

Gary

The Blue Sea Multimeter:

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/view/c79f?b=18

The Electronic Salinity Sensor:

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/view/c79f?b=13

Gary

Frank Newton
Boat # 321

RE: Electronics suggestions:

I would recommend installing a bilge pump run-on-alarm (alarms if the bilge pump runs
for more than a programmed time limit, I use two minutes) and exhaust temperature
alarms. Both are available from http://www.borelmfg.com/index.html ( www dot
borelmfg dot com).

I don't see the run on alarm on Borel's current web site, but if you call them I am sure they
can provide it.

The temp sensors may save you from a meltdown of the water muffler or hose/ or both if
the injector nozel becomes blocked and the run on alarm will give early warning that the
bilge is filling with water, (sooner than after the bilge pump has been running for an hour
trying to keep up), and finally falls behind.

Additional suggestions are: Electronic salinity sensor for the water maker as the
Dessalator salinity sensor DOES NOT WORK. and the Blue Sea's Digital Multimeter on the
220 volt panel so you always know your power consumption, frequency, and voltage.

Pictures of both of the last items are in the photo section under watermaker as I recall.

Regards, Gary

F/wd Frank Newton
Boat # 321
inquired regarding recommendations for:

" .... echopilot - through hull sonar...."

Frank: I had Amel install a Twinscope system on my SM 2000 Hull # 335 in 2001. It is
the monochrome system and even though I installed the TWINScope Display head, Amel
declined to install the larger transducer that it required. They indicated that they hadn't
done the Twinscope previously and were concerned that turbulance from the larger
transducer might interfere with the B & G sonic speed transducer system. The Twinscope
can utilize a sincel larger transducer or two smaller transducers. So Amel installed only the
vertical forward scanning transducer. I subsequently installed the second transducer (the
horizontal scanning transducer), forward of the one amel installed. It had to be further
forward on the bow to be out of the way of the 1st transducer. Joel correctly pointed out
that the risk of doing this, besides the increased drag, is the doubling of the potential risk
of tearing a hole in the boat if you stike somethin in the water.

I have found the horizontal scanning mode rather difficult to interpret. On the other hand
the vertical forward scanning mode has saved me from grounding several times. Would I
do it again?, I honestly don't know. I believe Twinscope has a color unit available now and
if I was sailing where there were more coral heads then I think I would opt for the
Twinscope, but so far I haven't found much use for the horizontal scanning mode in the
Caribbean, Western Europe, or the East coast of the US.

Hope this helps. Gary Silver

Call doyle in Ft. Lauderdale. Please see my e- mailk to you. There are problems doing it, but sm349 Sundance has them, Do not get the short horizontal to vertical. They do not work and the strings controlling the are a mess. You have to use long thin rods and highly reinforced ends. The first try on Sundance ripped out at the leach on Trip in late Jan., 2005 from Ft. L. to Wilm, NC. Paul Lockwood at Omar sails in Beaufort NC fixed them correctly. They have to be put on a specifis side of the sail. Murray Seidel 910-470-1225