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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water
drdavegoodman
Hi Roger;
I do not have any water coming down the mast/mast compression post. There has been some major rain here in USVI, and no water has gotten into the forward bilge since I've inserted the bowthruster secure pin. Dave --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Roger Banks <roger.banks@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bilge water
drdavegoodman
Eric;
The water was not oily. The boat is a 1998 SM. Location is St. Thomas, USVI. Since I have placed the securing pin in the bowthruster, I've had no further water. However, I've not been out sailing since I discovered the water. Next time I go sailing, I will be using the bow thruster to exit and enter my dock area. After using it, I will again secure it with the pin, and will be checking for water in the forward bilge. The previous owner performed the Amel recommended modification to prevent the bowthruster from coming out of the boat, but to my knowlege has never changed the bowthruster seals. The main engine has about 900 hours, to give you an idea of how much its been used. Dave --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote: liter coming intoof oil.yahoogroups.com water. Ifthe bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal. that areyou boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster anotherjust removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster thrusterspongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the next towith point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil. <http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=12cst830c/M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=eg>me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting arrangement. My<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> s.com] com/SIG=12cst830c/M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1075093941/A=1945638/R=0/*http:/www.netflix. <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=egrou>com/Default?mqso=60178383&partid=4116732> click here yahoo.com/l?M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=egrou<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com>pmail/S=:HM/A=1945638/rand=468978337>yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/ unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comyahoo.com/info/terms/><mailto:amelyachtowners-<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com> Service.<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com>yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/ unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comyahoo.com/info/terms/><mailto:amelyachtowners-<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com> Service.
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Bow thruster for Maramu
David Wallace
We are considering having a bow thruster installed in our Maramu. If any Amel owners have had this done or know of one being done, I would appreciate any information regarding manufacturer, type (tunnel vs retracting), and position of installation.
Thanks in advance, Dave Wallace s/v Air Ops Maramu #104 _________________________________________________________________ http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=hmtextlinkjuly07
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RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Bolting Hull Deck Joint
Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
Dear John & Annie,
I just completed two years of sailing from continental France to the Caribean, where my Mango was set on the hard until the end of the hurricane season. In 2005 I sailed in pretty nasty 40 to 45kn weather off Ibiza for many hours. This year I experienced a very shaking crosssing of the Atlantic in March with crossed swell and waves for almost all of the 19 days. I broke the two short whisker pole or struts ("Tangonets" in French, that had been rebuilt in France in 2005) as well as one spinaker pole as the result of unexpected huge waves. The The boat rolled and pitched for weeks. When the mango was put ashore a few weeks ago, after taking the masts down, a thorought examination of the hull and deck revealed absolutely no dammage. Aside from the poles the only other dammage resulting from this rough crossing was a weakening baby stay on the main mast. Last week the hull was also examined by an independant surveyor, and the rigging by a professional rigger and declared in good condition. My conclusion is that the hull to deck joint on a Mango is pretty sturdy and I have never heard that it would benefit from any bolting! Serge Tremblay, V/ Opera, Mango#51 anniemno1 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> a écrit : We are continuing the endless process of rebuilding Annie M, Mango #1. We are now working on the hull to deck ("HTD") joint. According to David Gerr in his book, "The Elements of Boat Strength" the HTD joint should be through-bolted with bolts determined by calcualating ones scantling number. (LOA X Beam X Depth of Hull)/1000. Great, the number is about 8 for the Mango and calls for bolts every 11 inches or so. Our questions are: 1. why are there no bolts in our HTD joint? 2. Do any Amels have HTD bolts? 3. If not, why not? 4. Has anyone experienced opening of the HTD joint in heavy weather or separation of tabbing because of flexing? 5. How is the AMEL 54 HTD joint made? Best Regards, John and Annie Annie M Mango #1 --------------------------------- Le tout nouveau Yahoo! Courriel --------------------------------- Consultez vos fils RSS depuis votre boîte de réception. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: Bolting Hull Deck Joint
John and Annie,
Look in the photo section of this site for the photo folder entitled Amel-General. In there you'll see a posted photo "Construction Details". In the photo (scanned from a brochure describing the Sharki- Maramu-Mango boats) shows a cross-secion of the hull-deck joint-->a continuously bonded lamination. How can it be that you believe there's a need for thru bolting the DHJ? Richard Tate SM "Spice" and forum co-moderator
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Bolting Hull Deck Joint
anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
We are continuing the endless process of rebuilding Annie M, Mango #1.
We are now working on the hull to deck ("HTD") joint. According to David Gerr in his book, "The Elements of Boat Strength" the HTD joint should be through-bolted with bolts determined by calcualating ones scantling number. (LOA X Beam X Depth of Hull)/1000. Great, the number is about 8 for the Mango and calls for bolts every 11 inches or so. Our questions are: 1. why are there no bolts in our HTD joint? 2. Do any Amels have HTD bolts? 3. If not, why not? 4. Has anyone experienced opening of the HTD joint in heavy weather or separation of tabbing because of flexing? 5. How is the AMEL 54 HTD joint made? Best Regards, John and Annie Annie M Mango #1
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Lost keel,insurance and extent of damage
Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@...>
Hi Dan,
A few more points. Years ago I was crewing on a Nicholson 55 which was a ketch similar in configuration to our SMs and we were hit midships in a port and starboard situation on the start line at Cowes. The damage was a triangular hole about a foot high starting just above the waterline. This was about half way along the centre cockpit on the port side and in a large sail locker. The boat was motored back to Campers yard where it was built and they cut back the fibreglass until they came to a point at which the material had not delaminated i.e. where the glass fibres were still part of the resin and not free. This enlarged the hole big enough to walk through without bending. They moulded a new section using the original mould and then made that part of the hull without any sign of the damage being visible. The port tack yacht belonged to the Royal Navy and the helmsman was the CinC Home Fleet and so the navy was very helpful in ferrying us (the crew) from Cowes to Gosport to collect the boat for the start of the Fastnet in 1971. The boat was not insured for that race as it takes about seven days for the repair to gain full strength! I had a port and starboard incident years ago when I was the guilty party crossing in front of another car which hit the rear wing of my car which had a fibre glass body. The damage appeared to be fairly insignificant and so I ignored the advice to have the whole rear quarter of the body replaced. Within a year the rear quarter was a mass of fine cracks as the GRP had delaminated. I have been thinking about the probable damage to your boat. It was built by moulding two halves of the hull and joining them together. I feel sure that the iron and the GRP keel are joined together before the complete keel unit is joined to the hull. The shock of the collision may well have caused delamination not only of the bottom of the watertank section but also of the hull at both ends of the keel/hull joint and this sort of thing must be thoroughly surveyed by a real expert who will be prepared to stand up to your insurers surveyors. When I had my problems I blamed the insurers but eventually I became convinced that it was the surveyor acting for insurers and the one acting for me were the problem. The one in Newport was incompetent possibly because he was rushed to deal with about 35 of the boats damaged in Hurricane Bob and my British one was not only incompetent in failing to check the engine but also dishonest in agreeing to act for me when he was not going to see the job through. Richard, thanks for your remarks which are much appreciated. Regards from Anne and John at anchor sitting out a gale in a bay in the Aegean. SM319
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Desalinator Shutdown
eric freedman
Tony.
I also have had the circuit breaker trip while sailing. I finally attributed it to being on starboard tack and not having enough water entering the system. Make sure the boat is flat or on port tack. Fair Winds, Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 12:31 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Desalinator Shutdown 12 July 2007 Tony: I suffered similar problems with my Dessalitor 220VAC 50 Hz water maker aboard our SM # 335. As you probably know these circuit breakers (CB) are thermally activated and since I was operating in the tropics with high ambient temperatures I attributed some of the problem to that. Also, if I recall correctly the original CB was 15 amps and this system under full operating conditions draws 13.5 amps or about 2560 watts (as measured with a digital clamp power/amp meter under operating conditions). I replaced my breaker with a 20 amp breaker (or maybe the original was a 20 amp and I went up to a 25 amp, can't remember for sure) but I have not had troubles since. The higher the ambient temperature the greater the chance of a "weak" breaker tripping off line. There is also a dedicated CB for the high pressure pump motor in the box on the back side of the control panel (see Photos section as noted below) that is specifically for that pump, but it doesn't sound like this is your problem. Just to make sure you don't have a true circuit problem with an over current situation I would encourage you to use a clamp amp meter (one that you clamp around the load wire to measure the actual load), prior to going to a next higher rated CB. Also verify that the voltage at the high pressure pump motor is 220 VAC. High resistence connections or corroded CB contacts can cause similar symptoms. High resistence causes increased thermal loading and then trips the CB. The CBs are available from Amel for a reasonable price. See the photos section (Dessalinator Service Info) for pic # 18 for a shot of my digital meter showing the Dessalinator running at load. One final caution, this is 220 volt circuity and IT CAN KILL YOU, please make sure that shore power is disconnected and the genset is off prior to working on any of it. Hope this helps. Gary Silver Liahona SM 2000 # 335 --- In --- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com, "pellegrini1942" <afpellegrini@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lost Keel, insurance,and extent of damage.
Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
Thanks for the detailed reply to Dan... It is an eye
opener for all of us when it comes to dealing with insurance companies. Richard SM 209 --- Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@melita.net.mt> wrote: Hello Dan, ____________________________________________________________________________________ Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing. http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php
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Re: Desalinator Shutdown
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
12 July 2007
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Tony: I suffered similar problems with my Dessalitor 220VAC 50 Hz water maker aboard our SM # 335. As you probably know these circuit breakers (CB) are thermally activated and since I was operating in the tropics with high ambient temperatures I attributed some of the problem to that. Also, if I recall correctly the original CB was 15 amps and this system under full operating conditions draws 13.5 amps or about 2560 watts (as measured with a digital clamp power/amp meter under operating conditions). I replaced my breaker with a 20 amp breaker (or maybe the original was a 20 amp and I went up to a 25 amp, can't remember for sure) but I have not had troubles since. The higher the ambient temperature the greater the chance of a "weak" breaker tripping off line. There is also a dedicated CB for the high pressure pump motor in the box on the back side of the control panel (see Photos section as noted below) that is specifically for that pump, but it doesn't sound like this is your problem. Just to make sure you don't have a true circuit problem with an over current situation I would encourage you to use a clamp amp meter (one that you clamp around the load wire to measure the actual load), prior to going to a next higher rated CB. Also verify that the voltage at the high pressure pump motor is 220 VAC. High resistence connections or corroded CB contacts can cause similar symptoms. High resistence causes increased thermal loading and then trips the CB. The CBs are available from Amel for a reasonable price. See the photos section (Dessalinator Service Info) for pic # 18 for a shot of my digital meter showing the Dessalinator running at load. One final caution, this is 220 volt circuity and IT CAN KILL YOU, please make sure that shore power is disconnected and the genset is off prior to working on any of it. Hope this helps. Gary Silver Liahona SM 2000 # 335 --- In
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pellegrini1942" <afpellegrini@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forestay size; furler type
Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
Can anyone please help me out with this recent enquiry?
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28
On 30/06/2007, at 6:59 PM, roger_h_banks wrote:
Would some kind owner presently onboard their Mango or SM please
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Re: Desalinator Shutdown
Tony,
I do not know if this helps, but we had to replace the circuit breaker because it broke the circuit with no apparent reason...that was 3 months ago...no problem since. Bill & Judy Rouse s/v BeBe SM2 #387 www.svBeBe.com --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pellegrini1942" <afpellegrini@...> wrote:
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Desalinator Shutdown
pellegrini1942 <afpellegrini@...>
I am having a problem with my desalinator shutting down, that is
tripping the circuit breaker on the 220v panel in the galley after about 12 minutes of operation. I have tried it with nothing else operating but it does not seem to have any effect. I do not have a water leak and I think the problem is electrical. I see on the "posts" that the circuit breaker may need to be reset. Can anyone confirm this? Please advise. Regards, Tony Pellegrini SM2000 Voyageur #373
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Lost Keel, insurance,and extent of damage.
Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@...>
Hello Dan,
Very sorry to read about your accident, which I suspect will be the beginning of a long and frustrating process To answer your questions may I first point out that you are not in a do it yourself situation and so there is little point in you hoping to reseal the leaks. To look inside a water tank remove the toe board at the base of the fridge, two screws, lift the floorboard under the door mat at the bottom of the steps, 4 screws, and then reach under the blue fibreglass floorboard to find a black knob similar to the ones on the flap to the gas locker. undo it and remove the board to see the top of the access plate for the middle water tank. It is not very big and the Amel technicians who repaired the leak on my keel brought two specially made tools with them. One was a cold chisel welded onto the end of a stainless tube about four or five feet long and the other was a similar tool with a socket spanner head to fit the nuts on the keel bolts after the chisel had removed all the special epoxy ? used to seal them in. No to see all the keel bolts you will also have to remove the fridge under the seat at the table. The tanks are part of the GRP hull. The top of the keel bolts are visible in the three fresh water tanks and also in the grey water tank. See the plans in your documentation. There are fourteen bolts in all. I am astonished that your keel was sheared off and I would be amazed if this happened without doing major damage to the remainder of the keel/hull. If the repairs are not done to the highest standard the boat will be unsafe and unseaworthy. and I suspect that if you then sold it and there was further trouble with the weakened structure that it would be a fruitful source for litigation. I think you must expect to have a lot of aggravation over the next couple of years whilst it is all sorted out. I had an Oyster 435 which was severely damaged by Hurricane Bob when we were in Newport Harbour, Rhode Island. I notified insurers in the UK who appointed a Boston loss adjuster who appointed a Newport yacht surveyor. He inspected the boat and drew up a spec which he sent to a dozen boat yards and got about ten quotes ranging from $55,000 to $ 212,000 to I will not quote unless I am paid upfront. I was unable to find a surveyor to act for me and produce a better spec and the matter dragged on for months. Being unable to cope or understand the US system I paid for the wreck to be shipped back to the UK where I appointed a well recommended Surveror who produced a spec which went to tender to three top yards and produced three prices ranging from 75,000 to 78,000 ($150,000 to $166,000. We then had a meeting with my insurance broker and the "good" surveyor who said that he could proceed no further acting for me in negotiations with insurers etc as his primary clients were the insurance companies. For my money he was a whore. I then had the problem that we were cruising en route for the South Pacific in another Oyster that we had bought as it was clear that the damage etc would take a long time. My surveyor had deserted me and I had noone else to oversee the repairs. The result was that the works were done without proper supervision. The insurance company insisted that I signed a form saying that I accepted the settlement of 75,000 in full and final settlement and I stupidly agreed. When the works were being done they found that the engine was ruined and fitted a new one at my expense but in such a way that the watermaker had to be scrapped. This increased the cost by about 9,000 which I had to pay. I assume that you are insured and so I strongly advise that you find a top surveyor to act on your behalf and that he consult with Amel on how to deal with the repair. I do not suppose that you are the first and only unfortunate to shear off a keel and they have all the expertise. If it were me I would fight tooth and nail to have my insurers pay for the repair to be done by Amel and if they will not agree to compromise by paying for the shipment back to Amel if indeed Amel are prepared to help out. Sorry to be pessimistic but after my experiences as above I would hate you to be robbed as well. Good luck, John SM319
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New Member but Amel 'veteran'.
Noel Ardis <noel.ardis@...>
A quick hello to all the owners I have met over the years while sailing
SM#72 'Accolade'. Sorry it has taken me so long to officially join this excellent forum. The significant news is that 'Accolade' has been sold, after many years of happy sailing and still looking great. The sadness of selling is, however, tempered by the eager anticipation of having ordered a new 54!
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi Peter, We lost the heater element on two of our clima units because when we didn't know that using the heater you should only do so in the High Fan setting. Medium or Low fan speed leads to burn out of the element.Was that the cause with you?
The element is easy to replace. Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Uruguay From: "dan_bergin" <captdan@sailpapa.com>_________________________________________________________________ Win tickets to the sold out Live Earth concert! http://liveearth.uk.msn.com
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)
Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
Dan, We are very sorry to hear of your lost keel. I
don't what we can do from hear other then listen. Were you able to salvage the keel? What will be used as a replacement? Did the stainless steel bolts show any signs of loss of metal either from the salt water or from being oxygen starved? Had she hit hard before? We sail in Maine and are always fearful of grounding on a big black rock ledge. Good luck and hope you are able to get it fixed before Canada runs out of beer. Best wishes Richard SM 209 --- dan_bergin <captdan@sailpapa.com> wrote: Peter, ____________________________________________________________________________________ Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/
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Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)
dan_bergin <captdan@...>
Peter,
FOR the CLIMA dealer in San Francisco call ANDERS ELECTRIC 510-234-9566 or on the east coast call Rob at 301-352-6962 I tried to order one a month ago in San Francisoc when I was there. ANDERS said it would be a month until they got one from Italy. Mayby they have some now. Dan Bergin "Keelless in Canada" sm#317 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote: need a replacement heating element for my clima model number c303
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Re: impellor for Laser generator
lbflyingfree <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "bobparry1947" <bob@...> wrote:
the the equivalent Jabsco impellor number as the Sole one is hard to comeBob, I have no idea of the equilalent Jabsco impeller. But I have the same genset and have replumbed the intake directly to the raw water pump instead of via the "heat sink" per the factory. The output of the raw water pump is re-routed to the "heat sink". This keeps the inpellor wet and i have not replaced the impellor in over 70 hours. I also installed a shut off valve in the sea water circuit to the genset to make servicing the impellor easier. Good Luck. Steve Anderson SM 57 Flying Free
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CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)
pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
greetings from supermaramu #369 CALLISTO - pt. vallarta mexico. i need
a replacement heating element for my clima model number c303 heater/airconditioner. part number m66360. Does anyone know from whom i can order one. Thank you Peter Pappas
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