http://www.boatus.com/boatgraphics/names/top10.asp



top ten boat names according to boat u.s. from 1991 to 2004

serenity seems to be a perenial favorite.

enjoy

I have an Amel 54 on order and my SM2000, "Silver Cloud" no 330,
launched May 2001 with Yanmar engine specification, is for sale. This
is a very lightly used French Med boat in excellent condition. For
sale direct at a very attractive price with free berthing in Antibes
till Apr 2006 if required. Please email if interested.
John McDougall

Today I replaced my teak passerelle steps with this plastic teak like
material. The material was 1x 4" worked perfectly. I had this material on
my last boat and it held up a lot better than teak. They cut grooves in the
material at the factory. Took less time to make the steps than refinishing
the teak material.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

www.plasteak.com&#92; <http://www.plasteak.com/>;

Today I replaced my teak passerelle steps with this plastic teak like
material. The material was 1x 4" worked perfectly. I had this material on
my last boat and it held up a lot better than teak. They cut grooves in the
material at the factory. Took less time to make the steps than refinishing
the teak material.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

www.plasteak.com&#92; <http://www.plasteak.com/>;

Hi Mike

You're reminding me now of some more detail. Our shipwright had to take
out the shower tray and renew the inner layer of the double skin
bulkhead from the shower tray downwards. At that stage we were
attributing the compression post rot to shower activity dampness
working its way down the side of the shower tray. Maybe it was a
combination of factors. I recommend you do some testing of the post and
bulkhead with a screwdriver blade without delay.

We did not have to take down the mast, however. A couple of acro-props
were used to bridge the load of the mast down to the hull while the
compression post and bulkhead were cut away. Whilst it all sounds
rather frightening, it proved to be a fairly straightforward job for a
competent shipwright and not too expensive, circa $2000 Australian.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

G,day Roger,

Thankyou for info, design under main mast sounds the same and I think water ingress from base of mast is most likely as was the case for your Mango. I have noticed water draining into the head by way of a special water trap as you described but this goes into the shower bay. The walls are lined with the usual Amel vinyl lining and I am wondering if somehow water could be moving down between the vinyl and wall proper? I think I may have to consider lifting the mast one day to resolve. Incidentally, I managed to mis spell the model name. Should be Maramu!

Thanks again,
Mike Gough


Roger Banks <roger.banks@mac.com> wrote:
Hi Mike

I've had the same problem with my Mango no. 28 (the direct precursor of
the SM). We had rot in the compression post under the main mast which
our surveyor did not find. The problem did not become clear at first
(i) because the forward well also houses the water speed transponder
which leaks a few cups of water each time the transponder is put in or
pulled out, and (ii) the plumbing to the basin in the forward head was
leaking when under pressure and needed pretty much all the clips
tightening (you may want to check this). However, water kept pooling in
that same place.

After some months of ownership and following the repairs, a guest
spotted, when it was raining, a small line of water coming down from
the mast, through the small hatch where (on the Mango at least) the
mast lighting switch box can be opened to reveal cables coming down the
mast, on down the compression post and into the forward well. I'm told
by the shipwright who made the repairs that water down the mast is a
fairly common problem and difficult to arrest, and he had applied a
good amount of glass around the base of the compression post to
waterproof it for that reason.

I've tried as follows. I found an inspection of the mast revealed few
obvious holes; any found may be sealed with a small amount of marine
Sikaflex. This made virtually no difference and I was left puzzling how
else water would enter the mast. I've recently put a fillet of Sikaflex
around the base of the mast where it sits on the step, because it looks
like some of the water running down the outside of the mast may find
its way through the coachroof via the step. This has reduced the flow
but I'm still looking. For the time being, I'm reluctant to block the
mast completely with a filler for obvious reasons of future access.

I have a similar issue with the mizzen, where we also had to repair
extensive rot in the compression box system which conveys the forces
through to the bulkhead. I notice water is still seeping through and
drips down at the aft end of the engine room, directly beneath the
mast. I cannot see yet how this is happening but I'm on the case.

Good luck and do keep in touch about it.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

On 07/10/2005, at 9:03 AM, Mike Gough wrote:

G,day all,

We own Maramou # 147, and I wish to warn owners who may face this
problem: after heavy rain we find fresh water in the hold under the
fwd head. (Still unable find where it leaks in). The consequence of
this leak can be disasterous. I found fresh water to have caused dry
rot to form at the base of the compression post and centre bulkhead.
It was a huge job to cut out affected areas and replace! If anyone has
an idea of where to look for the leak I would be appreciative.

Regards,
MIke Gough


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Mike

I've had the same problem with my Mango no. 28 (the direct precursor of
the SM). We had rot in the compression post under the main mast which
our surveyor did not find. The problem did not become clear at first
(i) because the forward well also houses the water speed transponder
which leaks a few cups of water each time the transponder is put in or
pulled out, and (ii) the plumbing to the basin in the forward head was
leaking when under pressure and needed pretty much all the clips
tightening (you may want to check this). However, water kept pooling in
that same place.

After some months of ownership and following the repairs, a guest
spotted, when it was raining, a small line of water coming down from
the mast, through the small hatch where (on the Mango at least) the
mast lighting switch box can be opened to reveal cables coming down the
mast, on down the compression post and into the forward well. I'm told
by the shipwright who made the repairs that water down the mast is a
fairly common problem and difficult to arrest, and he had applied a
good amount of glass around the base of the compression post to
waterproof it for that reason.

I've tried as follows. I found an inspection of the mast revealed few
obvious holes; any found may be sealed with a small amount of marine
Sikaflex. This made virtually no difference and I was left puzzling how
else water would enter the mast. I've recently put a fillet of Sikaflex
around the base of the mast where it sits on the step, because it looks
like some of the water running down the outside of the mast may find
its way through the coachroof via the step. This has reduced the flow
but I'm still looking. For the time being, I'm reluctant to block the
mast completely with a filler for obvious reasons of future access.

I have a similar issue with the mizzen, where we also had to repair
extensive rot in the compression box system which conveys the forces
through to the bulkhead. I notice water is still seeping through and
drips down at the aft end of the engine room, directly beneath the
mast. I cannot see yet how this is happening but I'm on the case.

Good luck and do keep in touch about it.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

On 07/10/2005, at 9:03 AM, Mike Gough wrote:

G,day all,

We own Maramou # 147, and I wish to warn owners who may face this
problem: after heavy rain we find fresh water in the hold under the
fwd head. (Still unable find where it leaks in). The consequence of
this leak can be disasterous. I found fresh water to have caused dry
rot to form at the base of the compression post and centre bulkhead.
It was a huge job to cut out affected areas and replace! If anyone has
an idea of where to look for the leak I would be appreciative.

Regards,
MIke Gough


           
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.





SPONSORED LINKS
Sailing
Sailing yacht
Amel
Boating sailing

YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

▪  Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web.
 
▪  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
 amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
 
▪  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The stay is attached through a T shaped that passes through a hole in the profile. the solent is on a profurl furler.

Wilfrid,

Thanks for the info. Sounds like a very good idea to me to increase options
of point of sail and to save wear on the genoa. Glad to hear it can be
easily rigged on this model boat.

Judy

How is the stay attached to the mast?

Fair winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wilfridamel
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 3:57 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 impressions/cutter rig



-I have added one on my own. The stay is attached to the central
vertical split grp panel with two stainless stell plates.
The solent is 25sqmeters (250 square feet?)
works fine and avoid destrying the genoa too fast.
Sailed upwind this summer in a 25-30knots wind, at 50° real wind, much
better than on a half furled genoa.


-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy Rouse" <judyrouse@h...>
wrote:

Did you also notice that it is now cutter rigged? Now I'm wondering

how

much trouble it would be to rig a solent stay on the SM2. Anyone

know if

Amel offers a chainplate kit for such, or has anyone added one on

their own?

Judy

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_____

G,day all,

We own Maramou # 147, and I wish to warn owners who may face this problem: after heavy rain we find fresh water in the hold under the fwd head. (Still unable find where it leaks in). The consequence of this leak can be disasterous. I found fresh water to have caused dry rot to form at the base of the compression post and centre bulkhead. It was a huge job to cut out affected areas and replace! If anyone has an idea of where to look for the leak I would be appreciative.

Regards,
MIke Gough



---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.

-I have added one on my own. The stay is attached to the central
vertical split grp panel with two stainless stell plates.
The solent is 25sqmeters (250 square feet?)
works fine and avoid destrying the genoa too fast.
Sailed upwind this summer in a 25-30knots wind, at 50° real wind, much
better than on a half furled genoa.


-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy Rouse" <judyrouse@h...>
wrote:

Did you also notice that it is now cutter rigged? Now I'm wondering

how

much trouble it would be to rig a solent stay on the SM2. Anyone

know if

Amel offers a chainplate kit for such, or has anyone added one on

their own?

Judy

is there anyone out there who could help me with collecting data to the
whereabouts and ownerships of my recently bought amel maramu #89? i have
only very few data and would love to find out more about her.

regards, marc audeoud

amel maramu #89, s/y melmar y, www.melmar.ch
still on the dry in izola/slovenia

beeing new to the group, i don't know if the topic has been talked
through already...

i heard, that it is not good to wire / install certain sensor cables
from raymarine in paralell to the course computer of the autopilot
(ST6000 compass/flux gate) or the corresponding instruments (ST60 speed
/ depth / wind).

does anybody know something about it?

regards,
marc

amel maramu #89, s/y melmar y, www.melmar.ch
on the dry in izola/slovenia

No attachments received. Does this list strip out the attachments.

Judy

The responce from the Engineer that installed my Auto pilot to the B&G network system is attached. I had to send my Hydra back as it does not talk to Nema. The Network model does. Feel free to e mail larry if he can help you Good luck

Note: forwarded message attached.

Dear Richard, Gottschalk and John

Thanks to all of you for helping us, to connect NMEA of the B&G
Hydra 2 to the other instruments. Once you know how it works, it is
easy:

As a resume of all your infos: The NMEA FFD is used to connect the
Hydra 2 system to a NMEA device. To do this, the NMEA FFD has a 9
core cable of which brown, blue and violet are used for NMEA.

NMEA Input Signal - Brown
NMEA Input Return - Blue

NMEA Output Signal - Violet
NMEA Output Ground - Black

Safe sailing to all of you
und immer eine handbreit Wasser unter dem Kiel :-)

Hanspeter & Nathalie Wehrli
Sm #158 "NatHape"
http://nathape.sailingsite.org

I connected the ST7000 to the B&G in order to display true wind info
on the B&G using heading info from the Raytheon fluxgate compass.
This may not be want you want but see message 155 which contained
advice from B&G Technical Dept and was very
helpful.
John.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "hns154es" <hns154es@y...>
wrote:

Hello to all

Maybe somebody can help us. We've connected the NMEA 183 "out"

from the

Garmin GPS to the Autopilot ST 7000 "in". This works fine. Now, we

also

would like to connect the NMEA 183 "out" from B&G Hydra2 to the
Autopilot "in". It seams not to be as easy. Has someone done this
already? We'd appreciate if you could give us the correct advice

to do

that. It is easy on the autopilot side. The big question is the

B&G

Hydra2 side.

Thanks for helping us and
best regards

Hanspeter & Nathalie Wehrli
SM 158, SY "NatHape", Panama

Hallo Hanspeter,
die Formatierung der letzten mail hat nicht geklappt, daher diesmal die Belegung im Anhang!!

ist eigentlich kein Problem.
Ich bin leider nicht an bord und erinnere mich nicht genau.
Es gibt entweder beim FFD oder am "Computer" einen Ausgang mit NMEA
Ich glaube es war am FFD ?? ;-))
In der Betriebsanleitung ist das ersichtlich.
Ich habe alles (GPS, Radar, Autopilot Bedienteil, Autopilot Raytheon Computer, B&G und Notebook über einen Multiplexer vernetzt.
Das kann aber etwas Probleme machen und die Übertragungsrate wegen der vielen Daten ausbremsen.
Hier in der Anlage die Belegung des FFD. damit sollte eigentlich alles klar sein (im Anhang).

Es macht natürlich keinen Sinn die Daten eines Gerätes, die im Multiplexer mit anderen zusammengefügt werden wieder an das Ausgangsgerät zu schicken!!
Da muß man ev. am Multiplexer die Daten-Eingänge und Ausgänge umprogrammieren, so daß nur die richtigen Daten zum jeweiligen Gerät kommen.
Oder man nimmt eine direkte Verbindung vom sendenden Gerät zum empfangenden unter Umgehung des Multiplexers. An einem Datenausgang können sicher zwei bis drei Geräte angeschlossen werden.

Gruß Gottschalk

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hallo Hanspeter,
ist eigentlich kein Problem.
Ich bin leider nicht an bord und erinnere mich nicht genau.
Es gibt entweder beim FFD oder am "Computer" einen Ausgang mit NMEA
Ich glaube es war am FFD ?? ;-))
In der Betriebsanleitung ist das ersichtlich.
Ich habe alles (GPS, Radar, Autopilot Bedienteil, Autopilot Raytheon Computer, B&G und Notebook über einen Multiplexer vernetzt.
Das kann aber etwas Probleme machenm und die Übertragungsrate wegen der vielen Daten ausbremsen.
Hier in der Anlage die Belegung des FFD. damit sollte eigentlich alles klar sein

NMEA- Full-Funktion-Anzeige (NMEA-FFD) -elektrischer Installationsplan
Kabel des NMEA-FFD

(Funktion)
FFD-Kabel

Aderfarben
System-

Datenbus
NMEA-

Eingang
NMEA-

Ausgang
Fernbedien

taste

Network-Daten -ve

Network-Daten+ve

Abschirmung

Masse

Spannung +ve

NMEA-Eingang (Signal)

NMEA-Eingang(Return)

NMEA-Ausgang (Signal)

Fernbedientaster
grün

weiss

Schirmung

schwarz

rot

braun

blau

violett

gelb
grün

weiss

Schirmun

schwarz

rot










rot

blau







Schirmun
blau







rot







blau









braun


Achtung (zur Installation):

a.. Ein NMEA-FFD kann an jedem Punkt des System-Network-Datenbus angeschlossen werden. Sinnvoller Weise montiert man dieses jedoch immer in der Nähe des über NMEA zu verbindenden Gerätes (GPS), um die Kabelwege der NMEA-Datenleitung zu minimieren.
a.. Es können mehrere NMEA-FFD"s in einem System betrieben werden; dieses bietet dann die Möglichkeit, verschiedene weitere NMEA-fähige Geräte einzuspielen (Decca, Loran usw.).
a.. NMEA-FFD's können in der Kombination mit allen anderen Anzeigentypen betrieben werden (Standard FFD, Jumboanzeigen, Halcyon-Display, Pilot-FFD).
Abgeschirmte Kabel:

a.. Es werden abgeschirmte Kabel bei den Geräten benutzt, um ungewollte Einstörungen in das System zu verhindern (EMC Vorschrift) und diese müssen nach diesen Anleitungen auch installiert werden!
a.. Die Abschirmungen von NMEA-Kabeln müssen auf der "sendenden"-Seite aufgelegt werden!
a.. Die Abschirmung des NMEA-Ausgangskabels sollte in der Anschlussbox mit den anderen Abschirmungen verbunden werden.
Abschlusswiderstand (Network-Terminator):

Sollte das NMEA-FFD das letzte in der Datenbus-Leitung installierte Display sein, so ist hier der Abschlusswiderstand zwischen die weisse und die grüne Ader zu setzen! Nur zwei Widerstände pro System werden benötigt!

Ich habe das auf deutsch geschrieben ist vielleicht für beide leichter.

Gruß Gottschalk