Date   

[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water

drdavegoodman
 

Judy;
There is no toggle switch that I can see in front of the bowthruster
securing pin. I have a 1998 AM, #230. What year/# is yours?
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy" <sailingjudy@...> wrote:

Dave,

To answer your first question, there is no danger because to insert
the pin you have to turn off the toggle switch that is located in
front of the pin hole. With the toggle switch off the bow thruster
cannot be operated at the helm.

Regarding your second question, I am not sure. We were concerned that
we might not adjust it properly so when we were in Guadeloupe, we
asked Amel to adjust it. That is when Laurent at Amel-Guadeloupe said
it was adjusted properly and showed us how to pull on the wire cable
to move it the last 1/2".

Regarding a bilge pump for this area, we believe that it is designed
to remain dry. If you service the bow thruster and you secure it with
the locking pin, it will remain dry.

Best,

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@> wrote:

Hi Judy and Eric
Thanks for your responses.
Two questions:
1. Is there any danger of damaging the mechanism that lowers the
bowthruster if the pin has it fixed in the up position and you forget
to remove it while lowering the bowthruster?
2. When adjusting the bowthruster cable, I assume you do that when
the bowthruster is in the down position?
Dave


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Dave,

You are experiencing a common problem. The seals on the bow thruster will
eventually leak and cause the lower forward bilge to slowly fill with water
I mostly solved this by building up a rubber dam around the box where the
bow thruster tube goes through the hull. To do this I used a 5" to 4.5"
rubber pipe converter that I found in one of those 'have everything'
hardware stores in the US. I fitted polythene tubing to connecters on the
port and starboard sides of the dam (1 for each tack) and joined them via a
Y connector to a single pipe that I connected to the chain locker drain tube
via a brazed on barbed connector. This arrangement caught most of the
leakage and I was again able to use the under floor area as stowage.

Following a catastrophe with a SM 2000, Amel redesigned the whole of the bow
thruster enclosure on later boats. Apart from getting rid of the leather
curtain and enclosing the bow thruster behind a water tight access door,
they made the rear bow thruster bulkhead without the holes that drain into
the bilge area. They fitted a drain pipe to the bulkhead that also connected
to the chain drain pipe so that any water that leaks past the seals is
carried away to the engine room bilge.

This might be an easier option for you than my rubber dam solution. I can't
be sure as I now have the later design and I don't recall the exact details
of the earlier boat. It should not be too difficult to fibreglass in the
holes and fit a drain tube that connects to the valve assembly on the chain
locker pipe.

Good luck

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

-------Original Message-------

From: drdavegoodman
Date: 06/30/07 06:05:28
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@...> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of a liter
of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil coming into
the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the water. If
you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals that are
just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was another
spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the thruster
with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was next to
me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting arrangement. My
owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...> wrote:
Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of
pettit
ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3
spongy
inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3
seals
on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder
and
the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,
check
the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Slap Silencer

r.purdie@...
 

I am very interested in this product but on line they only seem available
from the States.
Has any owner found a European sailmaker marketing anything similar
to the Slap Silencer?

Rob. SM 'Accolade' (S.France)

From: rbenven44 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 2007/07/01 Sun AM 04:04:23 BST
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Slap Silencer

After 24 years of Amel ownership, we have finally found a solution
for the single biggest issue we had with the boats: the slapping noise
in the aft cabin. The Slap Silencer, a simple bridle one drapes over
the stern of the boat, eliminates 90% of the slapping noise, at anchor
or especially at a dock, when the wind comes from the stern.

We offer our stong endorsement of this product, mentioned in the
past on this web site. It is well designed, very well constructed, and
extremely easy to use. It takes me less than one minute to install,
single handed, and less than that to remove. It is easy to store, and
takes up little space in the aft locker. And it works!

Find information on the product and where to buy at SlapSilencer.com

Regards to all,

Roy on Excalibur, SM #195



-----------------------------------------
Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email
Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water

Judy Rouse
 

Dave,

To answer your first question, there is no danger because to insert
the pin you have to turn off the toggle switch that is located in
front of the pin hole. With the toggle switch off the bow thruster
cannot be operated at the helm.

Regarding your second question, I am not sure. We were concerned that
we might not adjust it properly so when we were in Guadeloupe, we
asked Amel to adjust it. That is when Laurent at Amel-Guadeloupe said
it was adjusted properly and showed us how to pull on the wire cable
to move it the last 1/2".

Regarding a bilge pump for this area, we believe that it is designed
to remain dry. If you service the bow thruster and you secure it with
the locking pin, it will remain dry.

Best,

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@...> wrote:

Hi Judy and Eric
Thanks for your responses.
Two questions:
1. Is there any danger of damaging the mechanism that lowers the
bowthruster if the pin has it fixed in the up position and you forget
to remove it while lowering the bowthruster?
2. When adjusting the bowthruster cable, I assume you do that when
the bowthruster is in the down position?
Dave


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water

Dimitris Krassopoulos <dkra@...>
 

Hi to all,



I had the same problem and I installed a small bilge pump in the bilge close
to the depth sounder through hull. The sea water goes to the same brass duct
as the water from the shower I had just made a new one with one more inlet
where I fixed the hose from the new bilge pump. The pump has also a small
control unit which I installed easily close to the towel drier similar to
the jabsco control of the wc but just lower. It looks fine and works very
well I think that Amel should have thought of that the total cost is around
150 Dollars. I can send photos if anyone is interested.



Dimitris



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 3:40 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water



Hi Judy and Eric
Thanks for your responses.
Two questions:
1. Is there any danger of damaging the mechanism that lowers the
bowthruster if the pin has it fixed in the up position and you forget
to remove it while lowering the bowthruster?
2. When adjusting the bowthruster cable, I assume you do that when
the bowthruster is in the down position?
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Judy,

I adjusted the cables and motor so that the hole lines up and that
the seals
are properly compressed. This prevents water ingress and makes life
a lot
easier when retracting the bow thruster.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Judy
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 7:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water



Dave,

We replaced the seals and still continued to get a small amount of
water while sailing especially sailing to weather. We had noticed
that the bow thruster did not appear to raise all the way up because
the holes for the locking pin did not align.

While we were in Guadeloupe we asked Laurent at Amel to adjust the bow
thruster height. He looked at it and said it was adjusted correctly
and told us we needed to manually raise the bow thruster the
additional 1/2" which would align the holes and allow the locking pin
to be inserted. He said that by raising it this last 1/2" and
inserting the locking pin water would be prevented from coming in
around the seals. He showed us how to raise the bow thruster and
insert the pin by pulling the "lifting wire" inward (toward me) which
raises it another 1/2" and aligns the holes. Since our visit at Amel
in Guadeloupe, we have had no water in the bilge.

Is there any possibility that you have done any sailing without having
the bowthruster locked (pinned)? If so, you would have probably
received a slight amount of water in the forward bilge as you have
described. If you have never sailed without having the bowthruster
pinned in the locked position, then you have the correct assumption
that it is time to replace the seals.

Judy & Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 # 387

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@> wrote:

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave






[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water

drdavegoodman
 

Hi Judy and Eric
Thanks for your responses.
Two questions:
1. Is there any danger of damaging the mechanism that lowers the
bowthruster if the pin has it fixed in the up position and you forget
to remove it while lowering the bowthruster?
2. When adjusting the bowthruster cable, I assume you do that when
the bowthruster is in the down position?
Dave


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Judy,

I adjusted the cables and motor so that the hole lines up and that
the seals
are properly compressed. This prevents water ingress and makes life
a lot
easier when retracting the bow thruster.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 7:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water



Dave,

We replaced the seals and still continued to get a small amount of
water while sailing especially sailing to weather. We had noticed
that the bow thruster did not appear to raise all the way up because
the holes for the locking pin did not align.

While we were in Guadeloupe we asked Laurent at Amel to adjust the bow
thruster height. He looked at it and said it was adjusted correctly
and told us we needed to manually raise the bow thruster the
additional 1/2" which would align the holes and allow the locking pin
to be inserted. He said that by raising it this last 1/2" and
inserting the locking pin water would be prevented from coming in
around the seals. He showed us how to raise the bow thruster and
insert the pin by pulling the "lifting wire" inward (toward me) which
raises it another 1/2" and aligns the holes. Since our visit at Amel
in Guadeloupe, we have had no water in the bilge.

Is there any possibility that you have done any sailing without having
the bowthruster locked (pinned)? If so, you would have probably
received a slight amount of water in the forward bilge as you have
described. If you have never sailed without having the bowthruster
pinned in the locked position, then you have the correct assumption
that it is time to replace the seals.

Judy & Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 # 387

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@> wrote:

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Slap Silencer

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

After 24 years of Amel ownership, we have finally found a solution
for the single biggest issue we had with the boats: the slapping noise
in the aft cabin. The Slap Silencer, a simple bridle one drapes over
the stern of the boat, eliminates 90% of the slapping noise, at anchor
or especially at a dock, when the wind comes from the stern.

We offer our stong endorsement of this product, mentioned in the
past on this web site. It is well designed, very well constructed, and
extremely easy to use. It takes me less than one minute to install,
single handed, and less than that to remove. It is easy to store, and
takes up little space in the aft locker. And it works!

Find information on the product and where to buy at SlapSilencer.com

Regards to all,

Roy on Excalibur, SM #195


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water

eric freedman
 

Judy,

I adjusted the cables and motor so that the hole lines up and that the seals
are properly compressed. This prevents water ingress and makes life a lot
easier when retracting the bow thruster.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 7:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water



Dave,

We replaced the seals and still continued to get a small amount of
water while sailing especially sailing to weather. We had noticed
that the bow thruster did not appear to raise all the way up because
the holes for the locking pin did not align.

While we were in Guadeloupe we asked Laurent at Amel to adjust the bow
thruster height. He looked at it and said it was adjusted correctly
and told us we needed to manually raise the bow thruster the
additional 1/2" which would align the holes and allow the locking pin
to be inserted. He said that by raising it this last 1/2" and
inserting the locking pin water would be prevented from coming in
around the seals. He showed us how to raise the bow thruster and
insert the pin by pulling the "lifting wire" inward (toward me) which
raises it another 1/2" and aligns the holes. Since our visit at Amel
in Guadeloupe, we have had no water in the bilge.

Is there any possibility that you have done any sailing without having
the bowthruster locked (pinned)? If so, you would have probably
received a slight amount of water in the forward bilge as you have
described. If you have never sailed without having the bowthruster
pinned in the locked position, then you have the correct assumption
that it is time to replace the seals.

Judy & Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 # 387

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@...> wrote:


Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave


Re: Forward bildge water

Judy Rouse
 

Dave,

We replaced the seals and still continued to get a small amount of
water while sailing especially sailing to weather. We had noticed
that the bow thruster did not appear to raise all the way up because
the holes for the locking pin did not align.

While we were in Guadeloupe we asked Laurent at Amel to adjust the bow
thruster height. He looked at it and said it was adjusted correctly
and told us we needed to manually raise the bow thruster the
additional 1/2" which would align the holes and allow the locking pin
to be inserted. He said that by raising it this last 1/2" and
inserting the locking pin water would be prevented from coming in
around the seals. He showed us how to raise the bow thruster and
insert the pin by pulling the "lifting wire" inward (toward me) which
raises it another 1/2" and aligns the holes. Since our visit at Amel
in Guadeloupe, we have had no water in the bilge.

Is there any possibility that you have done any sailing without having
the bowthruster locked (pinned)? If so, you would have probably
received a slight amount of water in the forward bilge as you have
described. If you have never sailed without having the bowthruster
pinned in the locked position, then you have the correct assumption
that it is time to replace the seals.

Judy & Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 # 387



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@...> wrote:

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave


Forestay size; furler type

roger_h_banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Would some kind owner presently onboard their Mango or SM please put a vernier caliper on
the forestay and let me know the size. Mine is 10mm but I'm being told that may be under-
rigged. Second, does anyone have experience of replacing the genoa furling system with a
Profurl C430 or C480?

Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water

Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Hi Dave

I think I've reported before that I get water in the same place
forward, but it's from rainwater coming down the mast. I've tried all
sorts to stop it, so far without luck. You should find a trail of
water either from the bowthruster or down the mast compression post
(even perhaps behind the trim, which is nasty for rot).

Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28


On 30/06/2007, at 4:05 PM, drdavegoodman wrote:

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@...> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of
a liter
of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil
coming into
the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the
water. If
you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip
seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals
that are
just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two
screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was
another
spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the
thruster
with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was
next to
me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting
arrangement. My
owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...>
wrote:
Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of
pettit
ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3
spongy
inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3
seals
on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder
and
the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,
check
the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bilge water

eric freedman
 

Dave,

Is the water oily that is in the bilge?

What is the year of your boat?

Is it a super Maramu?

The owners’ manual will not help you to change the bow thruster seals.

Maybe I can help you.

where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 2:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water



Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@...> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of a liter
of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil coming into
the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the water. If
you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals that are
just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was another
spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the thruster
with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was next to
me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting arrangement. My
owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroup
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> s.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...> wrote:
Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of
pettit
ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3
spongy
inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3
seals
on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder
and
the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,
check
the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite





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Forward bildge water

drdavegoodman
 

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@...> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of a liter
of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil coming into
the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the water. If
you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals that are
just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was another
spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the thruster
with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was next to
me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting arrangement. My
owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...> wrote:
Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of
pettit
ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3
spongy
inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3
seals
on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder
and
the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,
check
the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite





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ADVERTISEMENT

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Insurance valuations

ardrizzi\@libero\.it <ardrizzi@...>
 

Dear Judy and Ian,
if you want 350,000 Euros for Pen Azen .....here we are! We would like to do a big bargain, as you suggested.
How are you? All is ok with us. We had very hot weather and no wind at all during our 7 days sailing in Croazia.
Where are you now?
Kisses
Mariolina and Giorgio

---------- Initial Header -----------

From : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Cc :
Date : Fri, 29 Jun 2007 12:59:51 +0000
Subject : [Amel Yacht Owners] Insurance valuations








Second hand S M s remain an extraordinary bargain. I have just heard of
of a 2000 launched SM in reasonable shape in the Med. changing hands for
Euros 350,000. With nearly 500 built there will inevitably be about 50 on
the market in any year. Nice if you want to buy! Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen
Azen, SM 302

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------------------------------
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http://i-mode.wind.it/


Re: freshwater toilet flush

Ag Av8ter
 

-Hello Dave,

We are aboard SM #266 and have salt water flushing and Jabsco Quiet
Flush heads. We are pleased with the performance and ease of
maintanence. On our boat (factory installation) the salt water is
supplied by two Jabsco Par4 pumps (no pressure vessel required).
They get their make up water from the strainer/sea chest. One for
the fwd. head and one for the aft head. I have had to change out one
of the Par4 pumps and found it on Ebay for about $90.00 (don't
remember the exact amount), rebuilt the old one as a spare. We have
also had to change out the macerator pumps at the head itself, and
carry two spares.

The only negative we have found with salt water, is an occasional
odor if the head is not used for a few days. Of course if you are in
a nasty ol' harbor, the make up water is foul to begin with. We are
seldom in harbors, so this is not a problem for us.

Good Sailing (and flushing!)

Tony Gray
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266



-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@...> wrote:

Greetings all;
I am installing Jabsco electric quiet flush heads on a 1998 SM and
researching freshwater vs salt water flush. I have received
conflicting info on this topic and hope that someone has some
experience they can share. Amel recommended I use the 24v Jabsco
electric quite flush connected to saltwater. These require a
pressurized water intake system, minimum 3.5 GPM. If I use the
existing sea water connection, I must install a pressure pump for
each
head. If I tap into the freshwater system going to the sinks and
showers, this is already pressurized, and I do not need to install
an
additional pump. There are many advantages to using freshwater vs
seawater. However there are 2 main concerns that I can see (1)
depleting your freshwater with flushing and (2) freshwater system
contamination. The first concern is answered by the fact that our
boat has a watermaker that can easily keep up with demand, and the
boat carries 1000 liters (about 250 gallons?) of water. The second
concern is answered by use of the electric solenoid valve in the
freshwater intake line (placed near the toilet, about 6 inches above
the toilet intake)which eliminates the possibility of
back-contamination. Any advise in this matter would be greatly
appreciated.
Dave on Bel Ami


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John & Ruth Martin"
<jjmartin24@> wrote:

Hello All

Has anyone with an SM connected their toilets to the ship's fresh
water
supply ? I have studied the plumbing and it seems it would be
easy. I
would cut the salt water intake hose for the toilets and insert a
valve.
Then I would cut the fresh water hose (before it goes to the pump)
and place
a valve there with a hose teed to the salt water intake. I would
then cut
off the salt water and open the fresh water. This would make the
toilets
smell fresher and be less corrosive to the toilet components than
salt
water. If berthed at a marina with abundant fresh water, it
seems
like
this would be a good idea, especially if in a dirty harbor. When
going
cruising, I could easily convert back to the salt water flush. I
would
welcome any comments.

Also, in reading up on the SM, I've found a little known problem
regarding
the proper lifting points (when using straps, not hooking to the
lifting
eyes) for the boat. It appears that the proper place for the aft
lifting
straps is exactly where the aft lifting eye is located; but the
proper place
for the forward lifting strap is aligned with the hatch of the
forward head,
not aligned with the forward lifting eye. If you position the
forward strap
at the forward eye, you can easily damage the speedo unit, which
is
aligned
with the forward eye. Some SM owners have mysteriously developed
leaks
around their speedos and this may be the reason.

Lastly, a pointer I just discovered using naval jelly. I've had
amazing
results using naval jelly to clean up stainless and chrome items
like
fishing reels, diving equipment, turnbuckles, etc. I apply the
naval jelly,
scrub with a toothbrush, let sit for 10 minutes, and the pieces
turn
out
like brand new !

Happy New Year to all,

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus


Insurance valuations

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Second hand S M s remain an extraordinary bargain. I have just heard of of a 2000 launched SM in reasonable shape in the Med. changing hands for Euros 350,000. With nearly 500 built there will inevitably be about 50 on the market in any year. Nice if you want to buy! Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302

_________________________________________________________________
The next generation of Hotmail is here! http://www.newhotmail.co.uk


Yanmar starting problems

ivarmylde <mylde@...>
 

Hello,
Can anybody help me with following:
My Yanmar 100hk engine is abt 5 years - 500 hrs. Two years ago I had
starting problems and a mechanic installed a relay which helped. Now
I hve same problems and a few weeks ago I cud not start at all and
the relay was changed for a new one. Now again it do not always start
before I try several times.
The battery is Ok, but the starter motor do not connect - only the
engine fan - after a few times trying with the ignition key it
starts. I believe it is a electronic problem, or maybe the starter
motor must be serviced. The starter motor is very difficult to come
to. Grateful yr adv.
Rgds Ivar Mylde
# SM53 Silfrania


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar starting problems

svmalaika@...
 

To electrically isolate the engine AMEL installs a second selonoid in the
ground side of the started motor circuit. If this selonoid does not activate
properly the engine will not start. Your problem sounds like a problem with
this selonoid. It is probably caused by either a fault in the selonoid or a poor
connection in the selonoid activation circuit.

The standard selonoid has a black rubber button at one end. If you hold this
button in while someone turns the starter key the engine should start. If it
starts you know the problem is as suggested above. Otherwise, it is possible,
although unlikely, that there is an intermittent fault somewhere else in the
starting circuits.
Since the starter does not turn, and when it does the engine starts, there
appears to be no problem with the engine, just with the power to the starter
motor or perhaps the brushes in the starter.

Good luck,

Charlie
MALAIKA II, SM #336
Barcelona, SPAIN



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] freshwater toilet flush

drdavegoodman
 

Thanks Eric. I've decided to hook into the original seawater supply.
While it may be harder on the equipment, I think it will be more
seaworthy in case of failures. I don't want to have to worry about
flushing away my freshwater supply in the event of a watermaker
failure, which is a bigger concern to me.
Thanks for your response.
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Dave,

There is an electric anti siphon valve that comes with the electric
flush
toilet for fresh water. All you have to do is to install the valve
in the
engine room and hook it up to the fresh water supply.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 5:48 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] freshwater toilet flush



Greetings all;
I am installing Jabsco electric quiet flush heads on a 1998 SM and
researching freshwater vs salt water flush. I have received
conflicting info on this topic and hope that someone has some
experience they can share. Amel recommended I use the 24v Jabsco
electric quite flush connected to saltwater. These require a
pressurized water intake system, minimum 3.5 GPM. If I use the
existing sea water connection, I must install a pressure pump for each
head. If I tap into the freshwater system going to the sinks and
showers, this is already pressurized, and I do not need to install an
additional pump. There are many advantages to using freshwater vs
seawater. However there are 2 main concerns that I can see (1)
depleting your freshwater with flushing and (2) freshwater system
contamination. The first concern is answered by the fact that our
boat has a watermaker that can easily keep up with demand, and the
boat carries 1000 liters (about 250 gallons?) of water. The second
concern is answered by use of the electric solenoid valve in the
freshwater intake line (placed near the toilet, about 6 inches above
the toilet intake)which eliminates the possibility of
back-contamination. Any advise in this matter would be greatly
appreciated.
Dave on Bel Ami

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "John & Ruth Martin"
<jjmartin24@> wrote:

Hello All

Has anyone with an SM connected their toilets to the ship's fresh
water
supply ? I have studied the plumbing and it seems it would be easy. I
would cut the salt water intake hose for the toilets and insert a
valve.
Then I would cut the fresh water hose (before it goes to the pump)
and place
a valve there with a hose teed to the salt water intake. I would
then cut
off the salt water and open the fresh water. This would make the
toilets
smell fresher and be less corrosive to the toilet components than
salt
water. If berthed at a marina with abundant fresh water, it seems
like
this would be a good idea, especially if in a dirty harbor. When
going
cruising, I could easily convert back to the salt water flush. I
would
welcome any comments.

Also, in reading up on the SM, I've found a little known problem
regarding
the proper lifting points (when using straps, not hooking to the
lifting
eyes) for the boat. It appears that the proper place for the aft
lifting
straps is exactly where the aft lifting eye is located; but the
proper place
for the forward lifting strap is aligned with the hatch of the
forward head,
not aligned with the forward lifting eye. If you position the
forward strap
at the forward eye, you can easily damage the speedo unit, which is
aligned
with the forward eye. Some SM owners have mysteriously developed
leaks
around their speedos and this may be the reason.

Lastly, a pointer I just discovered using naval jelly. I've had
amazing
results using naval jelly to clean up stainless and chrome items like
fishing reels, diving equipment, turnbuckles, etc. I apply the
naval jelly,
scrub with a toothbrush, let sit for 10 minutes, and the pieces turn
out
like brand new !

Happy New Year to all,

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




__________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join. <http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus>
msn.com/?page=features/virus






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] freshwater toilet flush

eric freedman
 

Dave,

There is an electric anti siphon valve that comes with the electric flush
toilet for fresh water. All you have to do is to install the valve in the
engine room and hook it up to the fresh water supply.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 5:48 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] freshwater toilet flush



Greetings all;
I am installing Jabsco electric quiet flush heads on a 1998 SM and
researching freshwater vs salt water flush. I have received
conflicting info on this topic and hope that someone has some
experience they can share. Amel recommended I use the 24v Jabsco
electric quite flush connected to saltwater. These require a
pressurized water intake system, minimum 3.5 GPM. If I use the
existing sea water connection, I must install a pressure pump for each
head. If I tap into the freshwater system going to the sinks and
showers, this is already pressurized, and I do not need to install an
additional pump. There are many advantages to using freshwater vs
seawater. However there are 2 main concerns that I can see (1)
depleting your freshwater with flushing and (2) freshwater system
contamination. The first concern is answered by the fact that our
boat has a watermaker that can easily keep up with demand, and the
boat carries 1000 liters (about 250 gallons?) of water. The second
concern is answered by use of the electric solenoid valve in the
freshwater intake line (placed near the toilet, about 6 inches above
the toilet intake)which eliminates the possibility of
back-contamination. Any advise in this matter would be greatly
appreciated.
Dave on Bel Ami

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "John & Ruth Martin"
<jjmartin24@...> wrote:

Hello All

Has anyone with an SM connected their toilets to the ship's fresh water
supply ? I have studied the plumbing and it seems it would be easy. I
would cut the salt water intake hose for the toilets and insert a
valve.
Then I would cut the fresh water hose (before it goes to the pump)
and place
a valve there with a hose teed to the salt water intake. I would
then cut
off the salt water and open the fresh water. This would make the
toilets
smell fresher and be less corrosive to the toilet components than salt
water. If berthed at a marina with abundant fresh water, it seems
like
this would be a good idea, especially if in a dirty harbor. When going
cruising, I could easily convert back to the salt water flush. I would
welcome any comments.

Also, in reading up on the SM, I've found a little known problem
regarding
the proper lifting points (when using straps, not hooking to the
lifting
eyes) for the boat. It appears that the proper place for the aft
lifting
straps is exactly where the aft lifting eye is located; but the
proper place
for the forward lifting strap is aligned with the hatch of the
forward head,
not aligned with the forward lifting eye. If you position the
forward strap
at the forward eye, you can easily damage the speedo unit, which is
aligned
with the forward eye. Some SM owners have mysteriously developed leaks
around their speedos and this may be the reason.

Lastly, a pointer I just discovered using naval jelly. I've had
amazing
results using naval jelly to clean up stainless and chrome items like
fishing reels, diving equipment, turnbuckles, etc. I apply the
naval jelly,
scrub with a toothbrush, let sit for 10 minutes, and the pieces turn
out
like brand new !

Happy New Year to all,

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




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