Date   

Climma aircon/electric heaters,Type 9EH and ventilation

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

Electric fan heaters have, or should have, a thermal cutout/fuse to
disconnect the power if the element is over heating. This is in
addition to the thermostat. I have a free standing fan heater on
which this fuse has blown. On my fan heater it looks like a small
resistor and is next to a bi-metal cutout.
The instructions for my onboard aircon/heaters make it clear that the
heater should not be used on the slow speed setting presumably to
avoid burning out the thermal cutout. I have not opened up the
heating element to look for this cut out as all is well with it.
I have had other problems with the unit in the saloon as it stopped
working. I opened up the black box to find five electrolytic
capacitors,one large,one medium and three smaller ones. The medium
one had blown (the filling had expanded and burst the plastic
casing). From memory it was 10microfarads 450 volt working. I found a
Climma agent in Salerno,Italy who wanted 63 euros for a replacement
so I suggested a few places where he could put it and bought a
replcement at an electronics shop for 3 euros. The compressor would
start but not the fan. Im Mallorca I had an independant aircon
engineer look at it and without hesitation he replaced one of the
small capacitors and all was well until he gave me his bill which
included 68 euros for the 2 euro capacitor! I said that it was a 2
euro item but he was adamant that it was a special Climma unit and
had to be imported etc. This was BS.
These electrolytic capacitors may be used in electronic circuits and
for that they may have leads marked plus and negative but when used
for starting electric motors the polarity is irrelevant.I made a note
of the size of all five capacitors so I could buy spares when I got
home to Malta at a total cost of about 20 euros but have lost the
note. The three small ones had built in wires for connecting but the
two larger one were connected with spade terminals. The engineer made
up a couple of leads with spade terminals to install the alledged
Climma unit.
It is recommended that the filters be washed but mine fell apart as
the element was unsupported. I bought three new ones from the Climma
man and these 30 euro units now have a supporting grill so that in
future I can easily relace the filter if necessary with filter
material from a hardware store.
As the capacitor on the watermaker pump also had to be replaced, I
intend to get spares for that and the freshwater pump next season.
Ventilation. We had a freelance shipwright fit a hatch in the aft
cabin and it is a huge improvement.It can be seen in the photos
section under "Bali Hai Changes".
Finallyif you have a problem put the item in this websites search box
as it is amazing what is already covered since this site started six
years ago.

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM319


Site changes underway

Zanareva
 

Hello everyone,

Yahoo has and continues to roll out a lot of enhancements that'll give
us even more flexibility and capability. Already you may have noticed
that that Photo section storage increased from 100MB to 100 GB as well
as the original size of the photos you upload are now saved for
viewing as well.

Coming soon will we'll have:

* A unique URL that will link directly to a photo within the site (so
that a member can show the link in their post that'll bring you
directly to the photo).

* The ability to upload new image formats, including GIFs, BMPs, and PNGs

* Additional Grouplets (as Yahoo calls them), such as a For Sale
feature and a Boat Locator feature. Links to these will be on the
lefthand-side menu bar. They exist today, but you'll have to go here
to access them:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/grouplets/subscriptions

If you have recommendations let me know and I'll pass them on to Yahoo.

Best regards,

Richard
SM#5 Spice


Re: [Amel] Re: ventilation

michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@...>
 

Gary and Mary Silver, I concure with your summary and wish to add the windscoop I am installing at anchrages and only need little rigging.

--- On Fri, 11/14/08, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: ventilation
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 14, 2008, 2:54 PM






Hello:

I have an Amel Super Maramu 2000 (hull # 335) and have been cruising it for the last 7
years in the Caribbean with one season along the mid-north coast of the USA as far north
as Baltimore Maryland.

I am extremely pleased with my boat but also realize boats, like airplanes, are a
combination of compromises. Here are my thoughts for what they are worth:

1. When in the tropics, ventilation in the SM is excellent everywhere except the aft cabin
and guarter-berth . When in France, Spain, Portugal (during the summer) we didn't have
much of a problem but when in the Caribbean there is seldom adequate ventilation in the
aft cabin and quater-berth even at anchor with a stiff breeze blowing. Ventilation in the
galley is also limited. I believe Amel realized these limitations as well since they installed
more hatches, especially in the aft cabin on, on their newest version.

2. The size of the air conditioners are adequate for the aft cabin and forward cabin but
the AC for the saloon isn't adequate for the tropics. We solved this by installing a 4th AC
unit that really cools the galley and the quarter-berth well. (see the photos section for
pictures of the installation) . Even with the stove and oven going full blast this unit keeps
my wife cool when cooking and, as you can imagine, when the wife is happy everything
else is great.

3. Ventilation when it is raining is a bit of a problem unless the AC is running. Canvas
rain shields fashioned to widely cover the hatches when open, do work to some degree but
in the Caribbean sometimes the rain comes down horizontally and can even defeat those.
The Amel optional fresh air ventilation system is better than dorades but still leaves a lot
to be desired in the tropics. In addition we have purchased some Breeze Boosters (self
erecting wind boosters for the various hatches) and these are well made and work nicely
but are a bit bulky to store.

4. We have used the AC underway on transits while taking the opportunity to charge the
batteries at the same time. In fact our battery charging schedule is almost more related to
the need for AC than to the state of the batteries. Thus we probably put more hours on
the genset than most, but comfort counts.

Finally, I think the ventilation would be adequate almost anywhere except the tropics. The
centerline placement of hatches, I believe, was for safety at sea reasons and it is hard to
argue with that. The heat from the reverse cycle AC units has always been plenty
adequate and we haven't found the need for additional heating, but then we haven't done
any high latitude cruising.

We also have 2 Hella fans in each cabin, I mounted one in each head, and we have one at
the nav station, one in the galley, and 2 in the salon, (that is a total of 11) and the more
the better for the tropics.

Hope this helps. Nothing said here should be construed to be critical of Amel as I couldn't
be more pleased with my boat or Amel as a company. Kudos to Joel, Olivier, Jean-Jaques
and the rest of the Amel staff for there ongoing support.

Gary & Mary Silver Jolly Harbor, Antigua, West Indies


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heaters

MERTZ <jlmertz@...>
 

I forgot to give you the value of the temperature regulation of the
bi-metal,
I have calculate it but results are on my boat .. and I go on it only in
December, sorrry...

Other important point : if ventilation in minimum speed is very slow
bi-metal works to match,
I have increase this sped on 2 of 3 heaters by adding a capacitor of 1uF
in parallel in the regulation box (3 big capacitors on for each speed)

jluc

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jlmertz@..." <jlmertz@...>
wrote:

*1* If the main break had tripped it is NOT a problem with the
thermostat,
look before changing it the heating resistance or if you have an
insulation pb.


*2* It had the same problem on the 3 heaters,
After analyzing the pb I found that the bi-metal that make the
temperature regulation is too small,
so I decide _no to_ replace this with the same part (1EUR) but
I put a BIG bi-metal regulator (very expensive 5EUR..)

After more than 1 year (1,5 winter) no problem

Her you can have some photos :

* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P3.JPG
* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P2.JPG
* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P1.JPG
* nota : user=forum AND password=amel

JLMERTZ
COTTONBAY
"tout est possible dans un monde infini"
------------------------------------------------------------------------



José Gabriel Venegas a écrit :

I am the new owner of SM 278 and preparing her for a maden cruise
from
Savannah Ga to
the Bahamas this December returning to Charleston at the end of
January.

Last week I noted to problems with two heaters.

1) When I turned the water heater the main 220 circuit breaker
tripped.
I imagine the heating element or the thermostat went bad and are in
short circuit.

2) The heating element of the air conditioning/heater on the central
cabine is not working.
The airconditioning unit and the fan work fine but the heater does
not
heat.

Since winter is rapidly upon us, I need take care of these problems
because it can get pretty
cold in Savannah, particularly at night.

Any body knows of a distributor in the US were I can get spares for
both heaters.

Looking forward to seeing you out there

Jose Gabriel
IPANEMA SM 278



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Boat Considerations...

airbus4russ <russ.roberts.va@...>
 

Hi!

I am purchasing a 1970 Euros. It needs a lot of work. The result
should be well worth it, however. If there is anything you can tell me
about the Euros, anything to look for, your experience or etc. I would
appreciate it.

Gracias!

Russ


Re: [Amel] FORESTAY BOLT

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi, when trying to change the head stay or the bolt you need to do the following;
1- back off on the back stays at the Mizzen
2- back off on the back stay for the main mast that is in the cockpit
3- back off the aft lowers
4- back off the head stay itself

Now don't pick a day with winds when you do this as the mast becomes less then stable.
Use the balloner halyard to support the mast coming forward and pull it with the windlass using the rope wheel so you don't pull to hard.

that should do it.
best of luck
Richard on SM 209 in Corsica

--- On Fri, 11/14/08, btleonore <leonorebt@earthlink.net> wrote:

From: btleonore <leonorebt@earthlink.net>
Subject: [Amel] FORESTAY BOLT
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 14, 2008, 4:33 PM
Hello, I am trying to replace the forestay 3/4" SS
bolt with a new
one and can not get the forestay loose enough to remove the
old bolt.
I have unwound the lower toggle about 2 inches and applied
a stretch
with my balloner halyard to pull main mast forward after
releasing the
mizzen backstays to no avail. I do not want to unwind the
toggle to
the point of detachment for fear of not being able to
reattach it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Bill Rahmig on Leonore of Sark, SM72


Re: [Amel] Re: Chain Counter Sensor

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Ian, I used a small steel pin to drive if it will not come out easy. Remove the counter (2 small screws) and the wires keeping a note of the colored connections. Now with a 2 pair of channel locks big pliers, turn in opposite directions. The inner counter is heald by a light weight sealers and should move unless someone has be at it. NOTE: that the counter most likely started working due the the fact that it got a " is what you need to adjust it to. Then use a sealer (not 5200) to make it fast.
While you are at it, check the that the windlass shaft does not have any play. If it does you need new bearings and seals. Not a big cost item unless you get sea water in the gears for a long time.

good luck
Richard on SM 209

--- On Fri, 11/14/08, Ed Steele <edmundsteele@earthlink.net> wrote:

From: Ed Steele <edmundsteele@earthlink.net>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Chain Counter Sensor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 14, 2008, 10:32 AM
Ian,
I tried to drive the sensor out with a ball point pen
plastic body as a "drift" and a large rubber
mallet. I beat the shit out of the thing and it wouldn't
budge. In the course of beating on it with the mallet, the
chain counter started working again - go figure! I ordered a
spare sensor from Amel (horrendously expensive) because the
next time I beat on it, I will be using a steel drift and
don't expect the sensor to survive this treatment.
Friction fitting? Sealer? More like epoxy on mine!
Ed
DoodleBug SM#331


FORESTAY BOLT

btleonore <leonorebt@...>
 

Hello, I am trying to replace the forestay 3/4" SS bolt with a new
one and can not get the forestay loose enough to remove the old bolt.
I have unwound the lower toggle about 2 inches and applied a stretch
with my balloner halyard to pull main mast forward after releasing the
mizzen backstays to no avail. I do not want to unwind the toggle to
the point of detachment for fear of not being able to reattach it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Bill Rahmig on Leonore of Sark, SM72


Re: ventilation

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hello:

I have an Amel Super Maramu 2000 (hull # 335) and have been cruising it for the last 7
years in the Caribbean with one season along the mid-north coast of the USA as far north
as Baltimore Maryland.

I am extremely pleased with my boat but also realize boats, like airplanes, are a
combination of compromises. Here are my thoughts for what they are worth:

1. When in the tropics, ventilation in the SM is excellent everywhere except the aft cabin
and guarter-berth . When in France, Spain, Portugal (during the summer) we didn't have
much of a problem but when in the Caribbean there is seldom adequate ventilation in the
aft cabin and quater-berth even at anchor with a stiff breeze blowing. Ventilation in the
galley is also limited. I believe Amel realized these limitations as well since they installed
more hatches, especially in the aft cabin on, on their newest version.

2. The size of the air conditioners are adequate for the aft cabin and forward cabin but
the AC for the saloon isn't adequate for the tropics. We solved this by installing a 4th AC
unit that really cools the galley and the quarter-berth well. (see the photos section for
pictures of the installation). Even with the stove and oven going full blast this unit keeps
my wife cool when cooking and, as you can imagine, when the wife is happy everything
else is great.

3. Ventilation when it is raining is a bit of a problem unless the AC is running. Canvas
rain shields fashioned to widely cover the hatches when open, do work to some degree but
in the Caribbean sometimes the rain comes down horizontally and can even defeat those.
The Amel optional fresh air ventilation system is better than dorades but still leaves a lot
to be desired in the tropics. In addition we have purchased some Breeze Boosters (self
erecting wind boosters for the various hatches) and these are well made and work nicely
but are a bit bulky to store.

4. We have used the AC underway on transits while taking the opportunity to charge the
batteries at the same time. In fact our battery charging schedule is almost more related to
the need for AC than to the state of the batteries. Thus we probably put more hours on
the genset than most, but comfort counts.

Finally, I think the ventilation would be adequate almost anywhere except the tropics. The
centerline placement of hatches, I believe, was for safety at sea reasons and it is hard to
argue with that. The heat from the reverse cycle AC units has always been plenty
adequate and we haven't found the need for additional heating, but then we haven't done
any high latitude cruising.

We also have 2 Hella fans in each cabin, I mounted one in each head, and we have one at
the nav station, one in the galley, and 2 in the salon, (that is a total of 11) and the more
the better for the tropics.

Hope this helps. Nothing said here should be construed to be critical of Amel as I couldn't
be more pleased with my boat or Amel as a company. Kudos to Joel, Olivier, Jean-Jaques
and the rest of the Amel staff for there ongoing support.

Gary & Mary Silver Jolly Harbor, Antigua, West Indies


Stoves

airbus4russ <russ.roberts.va@...>
 

What kind (make, model, # of burners) of propane stove did Amel install
as standard equipment in the 1970's?


Re: Heaters

José Gabriel Venegas <jgvenegas@...>
 

Merci beaucoup monsieru Mertz.

1) I agree that the thermostat is probably not the culprate and am planning to check the
heating element and the cables leading to it.

2) Good point about the bi-metal temp regulator. I will see if I can get an "expensive"
one in the USA.

Jose Gabriel
IPANEMA SM278

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "MERTZ" <jlmertz@...> wrote:

1
If the main break had tripped it is NOT a problem with the thermostat,
look before changing it the heating resistance or if you have an
insulation pb.


2
It had the same problem on the 3 heaters,
After analyzing the pb I found that the bi-metal that make the
temperature regulation is too small,
so I decide no to replace this with the same part (1€) but
I put a BIG bi-metal regulator (very expensive 5€..)

After more than 1 year (1,5 winter) no problem

Her you can have some photos :

* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P3.JPG
* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P2.JPG
* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P1.JPG
* nota : user=forum AND password=amel

JLMERTZ
COTTONBAY
"tout est possible dans un monde infini

"--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, José Gabriel Venegas
<jgvenegas@> wrote:

I am the new owner of SM 278 and preparing her for a maden cruise
from Savannah Ga to
the Bahamas this December returning to Charleston at the end of
January.

Last week I noted to problems with two heaters.

1) When I turned the water heater the main 220 circuit breaker tripped.
I imagine the heating element or the thermostat went bad and are in
short circuit.

2) The heating element of the air conditioning/heater on the central
cabine is not working.
The airconditioning unit and the fan work fine but the heater does
not heat.

Since winter is rapidly upon us, I need take care of these problems
because it can get pretty
cold in Savannah, particularly at night.

Any body knows of a distributor in the US were I can get spares for
both heaters.

Looking forward to seeing you out there

Jose Gabriel
IPANEMA SM 278


Re: Heaters

MERTZ <jlmertz@...>
 

1
If the main break had tripped it is NOT a problem with the thermostat,
look before changing it the heating resistance or if you have an
insulation pb.


2
It had the same problem on the 3 heaters,
After analyzing the pb I found that the bi-metal that make the
temperature regulation is too small,
so I decide no to replace this with the same part (1€) but
I put a BIG bi-metal regulator (very expensive 5€..)

After more than 1 year (1,5 winter) no problem

Her you can have some photos :

* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P3.JPG
* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P2.JPG
* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P1.JPG
* nota : user=forum AND password=amel

JLMERTZ
COTTONBAY
"tout est possible dans un monde infini

"--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, José Gabriel Venegas
<jgvenegas@...> wrote:

I am the new owner of SM 278 and preparing her for a maden cruise
from Savannah Ga to
the Bahamas this December returning to Charleston at the end of
January.

Last week I noted to problems with two heaters.

1) When I turned the water heater the main 220 circuit breaker tripped.
I imagine the heating element or the thermostat went bad and are in
short circuit.

2) The heating element of the air conditioning/heater on the central
cabine is not working.
The airconditioning unit and the fan work fine but the heater does
not heat.

Since winter is rapidly upon us, I need take care of these problems
because it can get pretty
cold in Savannah, particularly at night.

Any body knows of a distributor in the US were I can get spares for
both heaters.

Looking forward to seeing you out there

Jose Gabriel
IPANEMA SM 278


Hauling by the chain plates

Craig Briggs
 

I've always been somewhat annoyed by yards leaving the area under the
lifting straps unwashed and then, on launching, putting the straps on my
fresh bottom paint (yes, sometimes they use plastic to prevent smooshing
the paint, with more of less success.) So when we hauled a few weeks
ago in Siracusa, I had the yard use the factory lifting rings.

I posted a picture where you can see the arrangement. The yard used
8000kg synthetic lifting cables (an item I'd not seen before) doubled on
each of the four attachment points, fastened with appropriate shackles.
The cables were attached to a 4M by 4M "X" shaped separation frame and
all was lifted by a 30T crane. (One could certainly use a travel lift
instead of a crane - I did have to remove the backstay and boom lift.)

All went perfectly well. The boat did take a very slight bow down
attitude (I did have about 400#'s of stuff stored forward that's not
normally there - I'll move it aft when we relaunch in the spring and see
if it makes a difference.)

Craig & Katherine - Santorin #68 "SANGARIS", on the hard in Siracusa
while we winter in FL.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in Amel Drive

ronnie_shapiro <ronnie_shapiro@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Steele"
<edmundsteele@...> wrote:

This is a low speed bearing and I was assured by Amel that there
was little chance of damage when it happened to me on route between
Galapagos and Marquesas. Had the seal replaced several thousand miles
later in Raiatea and no visible damage. You should expect to replace
this seal every couple of years when you haulout.
Fair Winds,
Ed Steele
DoodleBug SM#331



Hi Ed,
Nice to hear from you & thanks for confirming the advice I had from
Amel on the phone this morning, it sure is reassuring.

Just to remind you, we have met before, we even visited you on
Doodlebug in Limassol Marina in the Autumn of 2007. We arrived in
Limassol on our old boat Carmelit from Herzlia. That was just a
couple of months before we took delivery of our Amel in Singapore
last year.
We have implemented some of the house-keeping tips you gave us when
we met and all is working well.

Each time we replace the aircon and shower drain filters we think
well of you...
Hope things are good with you too.

Regards,

Ronnie


Re: Chain Counter Sensor

edmund_steele
 

Ian,
I tried to drive the sensor out with a ball point pen plastic body as a "drift" and a large rubber mallet. I beat the shit out of the thing and it wouldn't budge. In the course of beating on it with the mallet, the chain counter started working again - go figure! I ordered a spare sensor from Amel (horrendously expensive) because the next time I beat on it, I will be using a steel drift and don't expect the sensor to survive this treatment. Friction fitting? Sealer? More like epoxy on mine!
Ed
DoodleBug SM#331


Furler Rivets

Craig Briggs
 

David's point of using aluminum rivets to avoid corrosion with the
aluminum extrusion is certainly sensible.

Another factor arguing for aluminum is that Amel may well have
engineered the assembly so that the rivets will shear before something
else breaks. (When, for example, one forgets to remove the ballooner
halyard before furling, as I've done a couple of times. The anti-roll
bars bent right over allowing the furler to rotate and come up tight on
the halyard and then the rivets sheared - much like a shear pin on an
outboard propellor.)

If that was part of the design, then SS set screws may be too strong.

Craig - Santorin #68 on the hard in Siracusa


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Chain Counter Sensor

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Ian, before you replace the counter check the distance between the chain and the tip of the sensor. it should be about 1/2" 12 mm. Set the new one the same. to get out the old one; take off the tail section of the windlass, not the wire colors, the old sensor is held in the housing by friction and perhaps some sealer/glue, take an ice pic and pry it out don't be rough with it as you'll put the housing off the case. It is not a hard job.
best of luck.
Richard on SM 209

--- On Thu, 11/13/08, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

From: Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Chain Counter Sensor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 13, 2008, 6:17 PM
I have bought a replacement chain counter sensor from Pochon
for my Super Maramu. It is the orange cylindrical type that
fits into a black round housing on the port side of the
Lofrans Tigres windlass. Olivier Beaute tells me that it is
easy to replace as the orange insert simply pushes out of
the back housing. However how this is achieved is not
immediately obvious. Can this be done by leaving the housing
in place and removing the rope side of the windlass? Does
anything have to be undone first and how do you actually
push the sensor out?

Any tips would be appreciated. I hope that the new sensor
cures the long standing problem!

Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'



E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.11121
http://www.pctools.com/uk/spyware-doctor-antivirus/



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in Amel Drive

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Ed. You will also find that if you have the boat in the Carib or anyplace that grows a lot of hard marine things like coral those growths will eat the seals. We have been told that if we put lanolin on the shaft and prop we get no grownth. That seems to be working for now in the Med.
good luck
Richard and Joan on Corsica SM 209

--- On Fri, 11/14/08, Ed Steele <edmundsteele@earthlink.net> wrote:

From: Ed Steele <edmundsteele@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in Amel Drive
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 14, 2008, 5:05 AM
This is a low speed bearing and I was assured by Amel that
there was little chance of damage when it happened to me on
route between Galapagos and Marquesas. Had the seal replaced
several thousand miles later in Raiatea and no visible
damage. You should expect to replace this seal every couple
of years when you haulout.
Fair Winds,
Ed Steele
DoodleBug SM#331


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heaters

jlmertz@free.fr <jlmertz@...>
 

*1* If the main break had tripped it is NOT a problem with the thermostat,
look before changing it the heating resistance or if you have an
insulation pb.


*2* It had the same problem on the 3 heaters,
After analyzing the pb I found that the bi-metal that make the
temperature regulation is too small,
so I decide _no to_ replace this with the same part (1EUR) but
I put a BIG bi-metal regulator (very expensive 5EUR..)

After more than 1 year (1,5 winter) no problem

Her you can have some photos :

* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P3.JPG
* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P2.JPG
* http://cottonbay.free.fr/forumamel/photos/P1.JPG
* nota : user=forum AND password=amel

JLMERTZ
COTTONBAY
"tout est possible dans un monde infini"
------------------------------------------------------------------------



José Gabriel Venegas a écrit :

I am the new owner of SM 278 and preparing her for a maden cruise from
Savannah Ga to
the Bahamas this December returning to Charleston at the end of January.

Last week I noted to problems with two heaters.

1) When I turned the water heater the main 220 circuit breaker tripped.
I imagine the heating element or the thermostat went bad and are in
short circuit.

2) The heating element of the air conditioning/heater on the central
cabine is not working.
The airconditioning unit and the fan work fine but the heater does not
heat.

Since winter is rapidly upon us, I need take care of these problems
because it can get pretty
cold in Savannah, particularly at night.

Any body knows of a distributor in the US were I can get spares for
both heaters.

Looking forward to seeing you out there

Jose Gabriel
IPANEMA SM 278



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in Amel Drive

edmund_steele
 

This is a low speed bearing and I was assured by Amel that there was little chance of damage when it happened to me on route between Galapagos and Marquesas. Had the seal replaced several thousand miles later in Raiatea and no visible damage. You should expect to replace this seal every couple of years when you haulout.
Fair Winds,
Ed Steele
DoodleBug SM#331