Date   

Re: [Amel] "Popeye" & Questions

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Dave,

Thanks for the input. I have not yet got to the stove, but will probably
will have questions when I do.

Richard

On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 7:56 PM, Dave Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com>wrote:



Richard,

Congrats on your new boat. We own #29.
We put a LPG tank in the stern locker. It's in a container of sorts and I
still have room for the stern anchor and rode. We'll put an extra tank on
the rail when we leave for points south. I can give you a rundown on how the
hose and wires got run. If you still have the old Eno stove you will have to
work out a connection between the hose and the stove since it's an outdated
metric fitting. We sold the stove and put in a new one. Someone paid $400
for my 30 year old stove. I was amazed.

--- On Thu, 6/25/09, rfmolony <rfmolony@gmail.com <rfmolony%40gmail.com>>
wrote:

From: rfmolony <rfmolony@gmail.com <rfmolony%40gmail.com>>
Subject: [Amel] "Popeye" & Questions
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, June 25, 2009, 10:31 AM

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is
currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed
questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have removed
the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and twisting have
got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing rigging.
Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at the base
of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine compartment
but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast then goes, and
there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also, is there any
magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the wires in the
overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas cylinders
used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was
looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for
the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base
bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony

Maramu #91 "Popeye"















Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Barry & Robyn,

Thanks.

I'll look for the third screw.

As well as the standing rigging, most of the running rigging needs to be
replaced, there are two welds to do high up on the mast, and the masthead
wind indicator/anemometer needs repair or replacement. It just seems easier
to pull than to spend that much time trying to work at the masthead.
Leaving the mizzen in place might be an option.

I am very cautious about gas and am wary of a long run from the tank. I'll
work something out, however, as I suspect most owner have had to.

See my previous posting with regard to the LEDs and
http://ledshoponline.com/G4_LED_bulb.htm. Their service (as mentioned in a
post a long time back) has been excellent. I believe all new boats and
light fittings will be LED within a very short time.

Richard

On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 7:10 PM, seagasm <seagasm@gmail.com> wrote:



Hi Richard, in reply to your questions may I offer a couple of solutions?

Question 1, the light on mine has three screws, not two.

Question 2, it is not necessary to remove the masts to replace the rigging.
We had the rigging replaced with the masts in place while Tradewinds was
berthed. This is not difficult to achieve, it just required the correct
procedure to remove and replace the old rigging.

Question 3, we have three 4kg bottles secured in the port aft vented locker
in side the Lazarette.

Question 4, my question is "Who was your Australian supplier for the
LED's?" I have the round surface mounted lights with Halogen bulbs. While
they do provide excellent light, they do consume the amps.

Best Regards
Barry and Robyn Tradewinds III SM 171

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"rfmolony" <rfmolony@...> wrote:

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is
currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed
questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have
removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and
twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just
failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing
rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at
the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine
compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast
then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also,
is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the
wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas
cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was
looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for
the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base
bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"


Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Gary,

I have used the G4 adaptors from SailorsSolution and a combination of G4
6x5050SMD warm white for lower light areas and the G4 9x5050SMD cool white
from http://ledshoponline.com/G4_LED_bulb.htm for areas to be brightly lit.
The former is about or slightly brighter than the existing 15w bulbs and
very slightly whiter - the latter is bright white and much brighter than the
15w. I am very happy with the result. The white is somewhat stark, but the
soft white is not. Used in the existing cabin light fittings, the coverage
and spread is about the same as with the bulbs. Hope this helps. It is one
of the few things that I have completed and I am very happy with the
result. The power saving is significant. Now I need to change out the nav
and anchor lights if I can find the 22mm base LED festoons.

Richard

On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 4:23 PM, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>wrote:



Hi Ann-Sophie
Would you please comment on the characteristics of the light in your boat
since switching to LEDs.
- are the bulbs as bright?
- is the color of the light pleasing or stark
- is the light directional or flood like?
thanks , Gary

In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"ladyannila" <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

Hi Richard
and welcome to the Amel Group
your two first issiues I hope some one else can help you with. We have
also changed to LED almost every where in the boat. We bought ours from
www.sailorssolution.com I can realy recommend them, very service minded
and by now they know all about electricity on an Amel

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila #232


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"rfmolony" <rfmolony@> wrote:

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is
currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so
informed questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have
removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and
twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just
failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing
rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at
the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine
compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast
then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also,
is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the
wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas
cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was
looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for
the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base
bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"


Re: [Amel] "Popeye" & Questions

Dave_Benjamin
 

Richard,

Congrats on your new boat. We own #29.
We put a LPG tank in the stern locker. It's in a container of sorts and I still have room for the stern anchor and rode. We'll put an extra tank on the rail when we leave for points south. I can give you a rundown on how the hose and wires got run. If you still have the old Eno stove you will have to work out a connection between the hose and the stove since it's an outdated metric fitting. We sold the stove and put in a new one. Someone paid $400 for my 30 year old stove. I was amazed.

--- On Thu, 6/25/09, rfmolony <rfmolony@gmail.com> wrote:

From: rfmolony <rfmolony@gmail.com>
Subject: [Amel] "Popeye" & Questions
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 25, 2009, 10:31 AM

















Gentlemen, (and Ladies)



I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.



So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed questions. Any help would be appreciated.



1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just failed.



2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also, is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?



3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas cylinders used on the Maramu?



4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?



Respectfully,



Richard Molony

Maramu #91 "Popeye"


Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

eric freedman
 

Hi,

Did you purchase light bulbs or entire fixtures?

I did not see the bulbs on the website.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2009 4:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions








Hi Ann-Sophie
Would you please comment on the characteristics of the light in your boat
since switching to LEDs.
- are the bulbs as bright?
- is the color of the light pleasing or stark
- is the light directional or flood like?
thanks , Gary

In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "ladyannila" <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

Hi Richard
and welcome to the Amel Group
your two first issiues I hope some one else can help you with. We have
also changed to LED almost every where in the boat. We bought ours from
www.sailorssolution.com I can realy recommend them, very service minded and
by now they know all about electricity on an Amel

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila #232


--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "rfmolony" <rfmolony@> wrote:

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is
currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed
questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have
removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and
twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just
failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing
rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at
the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine
compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast
then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also,
is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the
wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas
cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was
looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for
the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base
bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"


Re: "Popeye" & Questions

seagasm <seagasm@...>
 

Hi Richard, in reply to your questions may I offer a couple of solutions?

Question 1, the light on mine has three screws, not two.

Question 2, it is not necessary to remove the masts to replace the rigging. We had the rigging replaced with the masts in place while Tradewinds was berthed. This is not difficult to achieve, it just required the correct procedure to remove and replace the old rigging.

Question 3, we have three 4kg bottles secured in the port aft vented locker in side the Lazarette.

Question 4, my question is "Who was your Australian supplier for the LED's?" I have the round surface mounted lights with Halogen bulbs. While they do provide excellent light, they do consume the amps.

Best Regards
Barry and Robyn Tradewinds III SM 171

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rfmolony" <rfmolony@...> wrote:

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also, is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"


Re: Trojan 200 vs Trojan 225 Batteries for Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary,

DC Battery in Miami http://www.dcbattery.com shipped 13 batteries to us while we were in Bonaire via AmCar Freight services. I am not sure if AmCar serves Antigua. The transit time was about a week and the pallet was delivered to the dock alongside our boat. The delivery driver even handed each battery over the rail to me. Total freight cost about $260.00.

We bought Fillriver Group31's from them. They fit well...modifications included shortening some of the copper straps and cutting 2 notches in the 2" deminsion piece of mahogony under the battery compartment lid. I had not planned on cutting this and you should consider this in your measurements.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2 #387
Mackay Australia

So far the 110 amp Fullriver Grp31's have performed well.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi everyone:
It has come time to replace my house batteries. I have no source for a Group 31 deep cycle battery with flush caps and a SS threaded stud placement that will allow me to utilize the copper tie bar between the positive and negative post for the series (24 volt) set up in my boat.

The AC Delco 1150 batteries originally fit measure 13 inches long x 6.825 inches wide x 9.5 inches tall to the top of the threaded stud and have a flush top that allows the 2x4 beam on the bottom of the bunk top to fit against the tops of the batteries:

Replacement options (i.e. available to me in Antigua) are:

1. Trojan SCS225 measuring 13.94 (almost 14 inches long) x 6.75 inches wide x 9.875 inches tall to the top of the stud

OR

2. Trojan SCS200 measuring 12.75 inches long x 6.75 inches wide x 9.75 inches tall to the top of the stud.

Neither layout of the studs will allow me to use the existing interconnect bars. I will have to have fabricated interconnect cables. Additionally I am concerned that the 2x4 hold down beam may not clear the filler caps on the top of the batteries.

Has anybody out there fitted either of these batteries to an Amel SM2000 of approximately my vintage (delivered July 2001, Hull # 335) and can tell me about their experience.

Thanks to all, Gary


Re: Trojan 200 vs Trojan 225 Batteries for Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

HI Gary

I have SM#283 I replaced my batteries with the SC 225. They fit fine but I had to have new interconect leads made. But otherwise no problems and I got a few extra amp hours.

Vito

ASM 283

Bay of Islands NZ

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi everyone:
It has come time to replace my house batteries. I have no source for a Group 31 deep cycle battery with flush caps and a SS threaded stud placement that will allow me to utilize the copper tie bar between the positive and negative post for the series (24 volt) set up in my boat.

The AC Delco 1150 batteries originally fit measure 13 inches long x 6.825 inches wide x 9.5 inches tall to the top of the threaded stud and have a flush top that allows the 2x4 beam on the bottom of the bunk top to fit against the tops of the batteries:

Replacement options (i.e. available to me in Antigua) are:

1. Trojan SCS225 measuring 13.94 (almost 14 inches long) x 6.75 inches wide x 9.875 inches tall to the top of the stud

OR

2. Trojan SCS200 measuring 12.75 inches long x 6.75 inches wide x 9.75 inches tall to the top of the stud.

Neither layout of the studs will allow me to use the existing interconnect bars. I will have to have fabricated interconnect cables. Additionally I am concerned that the 2x4 hold down beam may not clear the filler caps on the top of the batteries.

Has anybody out there fitted either of these batteries to an Amel SM2000 of approximately my vintage (delivered July 2001, Hull # 335) and can tell me about their experience.

Thanks to all, Gary


Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

amelforme
 

Hi Richard, Popeye has been well owned and you will find that boat to be
less problematic than similarly aged vessels.
I can't remember where the wire parting section for the mizzen is exactly
other than to tell you if you follow the wires from the base of the mizzen
mast you will discover the place where they are joined. I have taken the
masts off several Maramus and can't remember the mizzen details other than
to say that it is not mysterious. I am sure that a Maramu owner will come up
on the site here with the info.
Maramus were originally equipped with Campgaz/Butagaz cylinders containing
butane, not propane. You can use an individual 5lbs. U.S.A. standard steel
vertical cylinder in that tiny locker just outboard of the galley if you cut
a small V-shaped notch in the top of the carry handle that is integral to
the tank. Don't worry, just precisely where to cut the notch will be very
obvious when you try to put the cylinder in the locker. A better solution is
to employ the locker on the aft deck or to install a container on the stern
rails to carry larger aluminum alloy tanks which are worth the hefty premium
to purchase them as they last nearly forever unlike the short lived steel
cylinders. The standard warning about a perfect installation as propane is
heavier than air and will take you and the boat to smithereens if propane
escapes and accumulates in the interior. Be careful to be sure of the
absolute integrity of the entire system.
Did Peter Grimm take good care of your sail updates?

All the best,
Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126
Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301
Phone: (954) 462-5869 Fax: (954) 462-3923
Email: jfpottercys@att.net


Re: "Popeye" & Questions

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ann-Sophie
Would you please comment on the characteristics of the light in your boat since switching to LEDs.
- are the bulbs as bright?
- is the color of the light pleasing or stark
- is the light directional or flood like?
thanks , Gary


In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "ladyannila" <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

Hi Richard
and welcome to the Amel Group
your two first issiues I hope some one else can help you with. We have also changed to LED almost every where in the boat. We bought ours from www.sailorssolution.com I can realy recommend them, very service minded and by now they know all about electricity on an Amel

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila #232


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rfmolony" <rfmolony@> wrote:

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also, is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"


Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Anne-Sofie,

Thank you for the information and the welcome. I will follow up with
Sailors Solution as you suggest.

Richard

On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 2:41 PM, ladyannila <kanalmamman@hotmail.com> wrote:



Hi Richard
and welcome to the Amel Group
your two first issiues I hope some one else can help you with. We have also
changed to LED almost every where in the boat. We bought ours from
www.sailorssolution.com I can realy recommend them, very service minded
and by now they know all about electricity on an Amel.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila #232

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"rfmolony" <rfmolony@...> wrote:

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is
currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed
questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have
removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and
twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just
failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing
rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at
the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine
compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast
then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also,
is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the
wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas
cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was
looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for
the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base
bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"


Re: "Popeye" & Questions

ladyannila <kanalmamman@...>
 

Hi Richard
and welcome to the Amel Group
your two first issiues I hope some one else can help you with. We have also changed to LED almost every where in the boat. We bought ours from www.sailorssolution.com I can realy recommend them, very service minded and by now they know all about electricity on an Amel.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila #232

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rfmolony" <rfmolony@...> wrote:

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also, is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"


Trojan 200 vs Trojan 225 Batteries for Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi everyone:
It has come time to replace my house batteries. I have no source for a Group 31 deep cycle battery with flush caps and a SS threaded stud placement that will allow me to utilize the copper tie bar between the positive and negative post for the series (24 volt) set up in my boat.

The AC Delco 1150 batteries originally fit measure 13 inches long x 6.825 inches wide x 9.5 inches tall to the top of the threaded stud and have a flush top that allows the 2x4 beam on the bottom of the bunk top to fit against the tops of the batteries:

Replacement options (i.e. available to me in Antigua) are:

1. Trojan SCS225 measuring 13.94 (almost 14 inches long) x 6.75 inches wide x 9.875 inches tall to the top of the stud

OR

2. Trojan SCS200 measuring 12.75 inches long x 6.75 inches wide x 9.75 inches tall to the top of the stud.

Neither layout of the studs will allow me to use the existing interconnect bars. I will have to have fabricated interconnect cables. Additionally I am concerned that the 2x4 hold down beam may not clear the filler caps on the top of the batteries.

Has anybody out there fitted either of these batteries to an Amel SM2000 of approximately my vintage (delivered July 2001, Hull # 335) and can tell me about their experience.

Thanks to all, Gary


"Popeye" & Questions

rfmolony <rfmolony@...>
 

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also, is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"


Re: Dolphin Charger Model Numbers

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary,

BeBe #387 - 30 amp charger is: Model DOL2430/3 Serial # 02F0113

Photos of each including Model/Serial Plate uploaded at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2110622584/pic/list

Hope this helps you.

Best,

Bill
s/v Bebe #387
Mackay, Australia
www.svbebe.com


Re: Dolphin Charger Model Numbers

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary,

BeBe #387 - 100 amp charger is: Model DOL24100/1C Serial # 02E0010

Photo uploaded at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2110622584/pic/list

More later.

Best,

Bill
s/v Bebe #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Can someone aboard their boat tell me the model numbers of the small and larger Dolphin battery chargers originally fitted by Amel for SM 2000 approximate hull number 335 (vintage July 2001 manufactured),

Thanks, Gary Silver


Re: URGENT Help Needed - RPM Issues

karkauai
 

Hi, again, my friends. I thought I'd update you on the work-up and diagnosis of the Volvo TMD22 rpm problem I've had on "Kristy" SM243. Thanks again to all of you who responded.
The engine was tested on Lake Texoma during the survey, and was deemed to be working satisfactorily. Unfortunately, there is no mention of how high the rpms got during the sea trial or under no-load. The Auto-prop was clean and the blades spun freely on the hub. Since she had been sitting for 6 years with only an occasional run on the lake, I had the fuel polished before leaving Galveston, but noted that the fuel was drawn from the fuel line going from the tank to the engine, and that no effort was made to check the bottom of the tank or clean it. I was told that only a small amount of sediment was recovered during the "polishing". Not knowing any better, I thought I was in good shape. The tachometer/hour meter was replaced due to the hour meter not working. I was told that the engine had only ~2000 hours after four years of cruising the Med, Caribbean, and northern S.America ???. The Onan had only 800 hours on its meter. The Volvo was clean and looked nearly new. The oil was changed and new Racors and secondary filter were fitted.
On the way to Ft. Lauderdale we noted that the engine purred like a kitten up to 1600 rpm, but started smoking a little from 1600 to 1800 rpm and wouldn't go any faster than that. At 1600 rpm the boat made a comfortable 6-6.5 kts. It started without problems. In Ft. Lauderdale, I left her in the hands of Ray Eaton, who checked the throttle linkage, changed the Racors and secondary filter again, removed the turbo and had it refurbished. He said that the turbo people told him that "the part that opens" wasn't working properly and had been repaired (?wastegate?). When he replaced the turbo, he was convinced that would solve the problem but didn't do a sea trial. When I moved Kristy from where she was docked to the city marina, I found that she still wouldn't get up over 1850rpm. Ray called in a favor from his best diesel mechanic, and at last minute notice he came out to look at the boat while Ray was there. He noted a significant exhaust leak where the turbo was attached to the engine and acquired new gaskets. He also felt that the engine was running faster than the tach indicated, and checked with his hand-held tach. Yep, the tach hadn't been calibrated. The paperwork for the new tach wasn't on the boat and it took him considerable time to run down the calibration technique. He came back the next day, the turbo was reinstalled using some high-heat sealant on the gaskets, the tach was calibrated and we sea trialed her only to find that she was actually topping out at 2400 rpm. The speedometer was reading 6.5 kts, but the gps was reading 8 kts in both directions (up and down stream at nearly slack tide). He felt the engine was working fine and that it was a problem with the prop. We dove on the Auto-Prop and it had only a couple small barnacles on each blade, the blades spun freely on the hub. The barnacles were cleaned off and the hull was noted to be free of any growth. Another sea trial and no difference was noted in performance.
We went on to the Bahamas for two weeks, motored for a total of 44 hours in light winds, and had no new problems. Downwind on the run from Abaco to Charleston there was a fairly strong exhaust odor noted. When we got to Charleston the port side from the exhaust outlet aft was significantly soot-stained. I waited in Charleston for a week for a storm to pass and couldn't get Superior Diesel (the local Volvo dealer) to return my calls, much less send a technician out to have a look. I finally got another mechanic (Aaron "Oil in a Day's Work") to take a look the next week. He found another smaller exhaust leak at the turbo/engine connection. He removed the turbo, cleaned the waste-gate (but noted significant pitting at the waste-gate seal), and replaced it with new gaskets. He checked to make sure that the injectors were all getting fuel. No change. Next he removed the turbo and took it to the Volvo people who told him it was "shot" and not repairable due to the pitting at the wastegate seal. New turbo installed. No change except that now there was no smoke at all when throttled up to 2400…now thinking a fuel problem. He brought another diesel mechanic friend of his to the boat the next weekend (I'm now commuting to and from Charleston every weekend trying to get this figured out). He checked the injector pump and found it "like new". This guy honed in immediately on the gauge at the Racors reading -11 cm pressure. I'm a dunce (but learning), but it's amazing to me that not one of the other 3 mechanics who looked at her noticed that. We changed the Racors again, there was no debris in the trap, and the secondary filter, and the pressure dropped to 0. She revved up to 4000+ rpms under no load, but when we sea-trialed again the max was now 2600 rpm. Damn!
Next weekend I met Aaron and a diving buddy of his (very professional ex-Navy diver who just retired and is starting his business in Charleston…Eric of "The Dive, LLC"). He was knowledgeable about the AutoProp and had an underwater camera that he used to show me what he found…very cool. I was amazed to see only a few small barnacles on each blade and on the shaft that he said would make a significant difference in performance. We sea-trialed again and this time got 3200 rpm under load, but by the time we got out where we could run her hard, the gauge at the Racors was reading -5 cm again.
I'm having the tank cleaned now, all lines from tank to engine checked, fuel polished (again), and am convinced I have the problem solved!
In summary: Turbo shot (not recognized in Ft. Lauderdale), fuel dirty (in spite of having it "polished" in Galveston, and neither of the mechanics in Ft. Lauderdale recognizing the high vacuum at the Racors), and AutoProp fouled (despite my checking and cleaning it up in the Bahamas…albeit obviously not adequately). Multiple problems all combining to cause the same symptom of inadequate rpm under load. Total bill: $3950!!!
So you see…almost all of you were correct in telling me what to look for. Thanks again.
Lesson learned: Take a marine diesel course, get my hands dirty, take your advice, only call a diesel mechanic after I've done what you tell me to do. These guys charge from $75-100 an hour and are so busy they don't act like they care if they get your business or not. Aaron of "Oil in a Day's Work" is an exception to that rule. He's a couple of years into his own business after learning in the Navy and working for Superior Diesel for a few years. He really took an interest in my boat and my problem and found the people to help him figure it all out.
Kent
"Kristy" SM243


Sale of Super Maramu

ivarmylde <mylde@...>
 

After more than 30 years of sailing we hve decided to sell our Amel SM 1991 model.
Fully equipped. Yanmar 100hk engine from 2002,approx 600 hrs, Onan generator from 2002, approx 500 hrs, most sails from 2001 ( little used )watermaker, SSB, Sat phone etc, etc, boat in very good condition, laying Corfu, Greece.
Cud take property ( house/flat ) as payment.
Price , Euro 225.000
Ivar Mylde


Dolphin Charger Model Numbers

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Can someone aboard their boat tell me the model numbers of the small and larger Dolphin battery chargers originally fitted by Amel for SM 2000 approximate hull number 335 (vintage July 2001 manufactured),

Thanks, Gary Silver


Re: [Amel] Re: Downwind System

Ivan Campbell <i-campbell@...>
 

Thanks Bill



The boat is in Alcudiamar Marina in Mallorca and we go out on 1st July to
sail east. I will try the system then. You have been very helpful



Regards



Ivan



Ocean Hobo

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: 22 June 2009 00:18
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Downwind System








Ivan,

I was describing poling-out the genoa to the Port side. However, you do
not use the sheet cars when either foresail is poled out.

The Ballooner is rigged to Starboard. You can remove the starboard
genoa sheet and use it; or, we use the sheet supplied by Amel for the
mizzen ballooner. Always rig the Port side genoa before rigging the
starboard ballooner.

Setting the Ballooner to Starboard
1. Point the boat with the wind coming from the Starboard quarter
2. Set the starboard pole like I described in setting the port pole
including the ballooner sheet set through the block at the end of the pole
and not through the car.
3. Take a turn with the sheet on the sheet winch near the end of the
sheet.locking it so that you do not lose the bitter end
4. Engage the end loop the ballooner halyard in the ballooner guide slot and
set the other end of the ballooner halyard (the end with a small piece of
line and shackle) through the same end loop. This creates a "continuous-loop
halyard" and allows you to pull the end loop free of the ballooner guide
after the ballooner guide has "clicked" into position on the swivel.
5. Turn the furler so that the starboard groove is facing the main mast
6. Place the ballooner bolt rope in the outside (starboard) groove on the
furler.
7. One crew guides the bolt rope while the other hoists the ballooner.
8. Hoist until you hear the ballooner guide "click" into position on the
swivel. We sometimes have to take a turn on a winch to get the ballooner
guide to "click" or lock on the swivel and we rarely hear the click. You
will know it is locked when it will not come down
9. Secure the ballooner's tack by tying it to the block on top of the furler
(the block you would use if the furler motor failed.painted gray on our
boat)
10. Slacken the ballooner halyard.if it is "clicked" onto the swivel, it
will not come down.
11. Now pull down on the ballooner halyard removing it from the ballooner
guide and secure the halyard.this is important.if you try to furl the head
sails with this still attached, you will have some serious problems.
12. Point the boat with the wind coming directly astern and set the
ballooner sheet to about 1 meter from the end of the pole.
Recovering the Ballooner:
1. Point the boat with the wind just behind the starboard beam (about 115
degrees) and let out about 5 meters of starboard sheet. Note: This
point-of-sail causes the ballooner to fall against the port-side genoa as it
falls down rather than falling into the water.
2. Untie the tack.
3. One crew member stands in the starboard sail locker to retrieve the
ballooner.he must be prepared for the ballooner to come down very fast
4. Another crew member hoists the ballooner de-hooker mouse in the center
track using a "continuous-loop halyard" to "un-click" or disconnect the
ballooner guide from the swivel. You will probably have to take a turn on
the winch and use a winch handle to un-click it
5. The "sail locker" crew member grabs the falling sail as fast as possible
while stuffing it into the locker. You will be surprised how fast it comes
down!
6. If you have three crew members, the third person could control the speed
of decent by holding the bolt rope near the furler groove and slowing
decent.
7. Do not forget to secure the ballooner halyard and ballooner de-hooker
mouse or you will have serious problems if you try to furl the genoa.

Notes: You can furl both head sails together by slacking both sheet winches
and furling.
You can also tack one sail into the other, assuming your sheets are long
enough. I would not recommend running with sails tacked into one another for
a long period as I assume there would be some chafing. Amel says to douse
this double downwind rig when winds exceed 20kts True.

Sheet should be 21 meters of 16mm, unless you would want the ability to tack
the starboard ballooner inside of the port genoa. If so, use 24m.

Best,

Bill
s/v Bebe, SM2, #387
Currently Mackay Australia

The
sheet you mention removing from the sheetcar is this the genoa sheet or is
a
different sheet rigged for the ballooner? If it is a different sheet can
someone let me know the approx. length since there isn't one on my
Santorin.