Date   

Re: Looks like Amel hit one out of the box.

Matt Salatino
 

Congrats!
See if the AMEL50 TECHGROUP Facebook Page will let you join. The boats are similar in technology and construction.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Jan 16, 2020, at 8:09 AM, Mark Dajani via Groups.Io <mdajani@...> wrote:

Great news for the Amel yard. My 60H3 just went into the water last week.  Super excited. Dealing with the Amel team has been a joy.  I look forward to sharing my experience.  

Mark 


Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

 

The following is my understanding: The pump controller (blue box in 54s) receives voltage input from each of the Danfoss compressor controllers. The "fan output" terminal on the Danfoss is the output terminal that connects to the pump controller. The Danfoss fan output is 12 volts, regardless of whether the refrigeration unit is 12 or 24 volts.

BTW, the blue box may no longer be available, unless old stock. Frigoboat replaced it with a relay for each refrigerator unit.

I hope this helps. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Wed, Jan 15, 2020, 7:42 PM Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote:
Scott, you have me really thinking about this thorn in my side. My boat is on the hard now, but I am going to check the voltage coming out of the pump controller. If it is really 12 volts, then I think I am "missing the boat" by using 24-volt pumps. I no longer have the original Amel installation, so I am at a loss as to what came with the boat. I do feel, though, that running a 24-volt pump at 12 volts is asking for the problems which I have experience multiple times. I will investigate and see what is going on - I am an electrical engineer but do not want to profess any sort of expertise at this time. My old boat used keel-cooled units and I never had any issues - no pump!!
I will find out in the spring here in the US.
Jamie
A54 Phantom.


Boat insurance Martinique

marty hameline
 

Bonjour Amelians,

First off I must state that I am totally impressed with the Amel owner user group - Merci Beacoup.

We are in final negotiations to buy our Amel and hopefully will be the new owners soon.  We need to arrange boat insurance and contacted Topsail; who was Unable to cover us....

Appreciate any recommendations here for insurance companies in the Caribbean.  The boat will be in Martinique until late April/May  when she will be sailed to Delaware and the NE US for the summer.  

Thanks and cheers,

Martin Hameline
SV/Marafiki
818-331-8999


Re: Looks like Amel hit one out of the box.

Mark Dajani
 

Great news for the Amel yard. My 60H3 just went into the water last week.  Super excited. Dealing with the Amel team has been a joy.  I look forward to sharing my experience.  

Mark 


Re: Skarki Headspace / Celing Height

MATTHIAS GRAWE
 

Thank you, cigale, these pdf habe a great resolution.


Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

Matt Salatino
 

My previous boat had a 12 volt system. The water circulation pumps for the fridge and freezer compressors ran at 5 volts, as the only needed low flow. I think you can safely run your pumps at 12 volts.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Jan 15, 2020, at 8:42 PM, Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote:

Scott, you have me really thinking about this thorn in my side. My boat is on the hard now, but I am going to check the voltage coming out of the pump controller. If it is really 12 volts, then I think I am "missing the boat" by using 24-volt pumps. I no longer have the original Amel installation, so I am at a loss as to what came with the boat. I do feel, though, that running a 24-volt pump at 12 volts is asking for the problems which I have experience multiple times. I will investigate and see what is going on - I am an electrical engineer but do not want to profess any sort of expertise at this time. My old boat used keel-cooled units and I never had any issues - no pump!!
I will find out in the spring here in the US.
Jamie
A54 Phantom.


Re: Looks like Amel hit one out of the box.

Jamie Wendell
 

Just thought I would chime in to Arno's comments about the Amel 54. To me it is the best of all possible designs - dated now I guess, but I cannot think of ANY other boat I would want. I really appreciate the quality and features on the new 50 and 60 (and the modern technology), but for me the 54 is the epitome of what Amel does right. I could go on and on but I truly like the layout and the ketch rig and am sorry to see it go. If the new boats keep the company going strong, go for it. I support that and welcome the newcomers. Maybe if I were 10 years younger...............
I suppose I am just adding my 2 cents here but I love my 54 and the Amel concepts.
Jamie
A54 Phantom


Re: Mango Bonding

Arlo
 

Hello Charles. I plan to try and get the drawing scanned to a electronic file and will then post online. If not I will take a pic and post


Re: A54 rudder removal

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Thanks Bill, I’ll give it a try. I was wondering if there may be anything else that needs to be checked rudder-wise hence the notion of removing it.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: 15 January 2020 21:17
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 rudder removal

 

You do not need to remove the rudder on the 54 to change the packing. You need to remove the top of the rudder post (the quadrant). Then remove the packing nut from the rudder post, remove the old packing, then insert new packing from Amel, and tighten the nut. In 90 days, you will likely need to tighten the nut again.

 

I have more detailed instructions, but considering your experience, the above will likely work for you.


--

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

   

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 6:24 PM Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:

Hi all,

 

I want to remove my rudder to change the stuffing and do a general inspection, but have no clue as to how this is done, so would very much appreciate a point in the right direction.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

Jamie Wendell
 

Scott, you have me really thinking about this thorn in my side. My boat is on the hard now, but I am going to check the voltage coming out of the pump controller. If it is really 12 volts, then I think I am "missing the boat" by using 24-volt pumps. I no longer have the original Amel installation, so I am at a loss as to what came with the boat. I do feel, though, that running a 24-volt pump at 12 volts is asking for the problems which I have experience multiple times. I will investigate and see what is going on - I am an electrical engineer but do not want to profess any sort of expertise at this time. My old boat used keel-cooled units and I never had any issues - no pump!!
I will find out in the spring here in the US.
Jamie
A54 Phantom.


Re: selling an Amel

Paul Brown
 

Thank you Bill,

I’m only thinking about it at this stage but that’s a great help, 

regards Paul



On 16 Jan 2020, at 12:12, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Paul,

Happy New Year!

Normally, you have two choices: when selling your Amel 
  1. Make a deal with a broker
  2. Sell it yourself
I caution you that selling yourself is difficult, very difficult.

In either case, I would create a web page or a blog with as much information about your boat as possible. The more photos, the better. Google Blogs is a good place to start. You might want to look at our circumnavigation blog at www.svbebe.com, and especially under The Boat tab. Once you have completed either 1 or 2 above, you should join the Yachts For Sale Subgroup and post the information on your boat. Then come back to the main group and announce your posting in the subgroup. Be sure to give readers several options to contact you or the broker.

Good luck.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar






Re: A54 rudder removal

 

You do not need to remove the rudder on the 54 to change the packing. You need to remove the top of the rudder post (the quadrant). Then remove the packing nut from the rudder post, remove the old packing, then insert new packing from Amel, and tighten the nut. In 90 days, you will likely need to tighten the nut again.

I have more detailed instructions, but considering your experience, the above will likely work for you.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 6:24 PM Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:

Hi all,

 

I want to remove my rudder to change the stuffing and do a general inspection, but have no clue as to how this is done, so would very much appreciate a point in the right direction.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: selling an Amel

 

Paul,

Happy New Year!

Normally, you have two choices: when selling your Amel 
  1. Make a deal with a broker
  2. Sell it yourself
I caution you that selling yourself is difficult, very difficult.

In either case, I would create a web page or a blog with as much information about your boat as possible. The more photos, the better. Google Blogs is a good place to start. You might want to look at our circumnavigation blog at www.svbebe.com, and especially under The Boat tab. Once you have completed either 1 or 2 above, you should join the Yachts For Sale Subgroup and post the information on your boat. Then come back to the main group and announce your posting in the subgroup. Be sure to give readers several options to contact you or the broker.

Good luck.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar



A54 rudder removal

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi all,

 

I want to remove my rudder to change the stuffing and do a general inspection, but have no clue as to how this is done, so would very much appreciate a point in the right direction.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: selling an Amel

Paul Brown
 

Good day Bill,

I hope this finds you well.

Is it possible for your advise and how to advertise my Amel 55 forsale on this forum, is it acceptable and if so what is the process?

Kind regards, Paul Brown Amel 55 #17


On 20 Sep 2019, at 00:32, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

<image.png>

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Thu, Sep 19, 2019 at 2:56 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Pat 
You’re absolutely right. It’s not a good Idea. 
I tried have done it also with flex bungee cables. In some place it works well. Not much shock on the cables. Sometimes I had it too loose so the rudder was moving. 
Thanks Danny and Paul for your advice. 
Best regards
Ruedi 
WASABI A54-55

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 18. September 2019 um 20:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Ruedi, I would advise against securing the quadrant ,in the event of an emergency a boat should be ready to move immediately . Having to leave the cockpit and go down to the aft stateroom ,lift the bed and untie the quadrant sounds like a bad idea.
I have a small stainless hook secured to the bulkhead about six inches below the wheel ,I use a black rubber bungee with hooks on the ends , I put those hooks over two of  the spokes on the wheel and the bungee under the hook. This allows a very little bit of play, but 99 % a the time no movement at all and we live on a mooring. I can unsecure the wheel in one second if need be.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigan


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Sep 18, 2019 2:03 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Hi Ruedi, if the wheel is tied tight and there is clonking it is possible your steering cables need adjustment. Easy to do where they are mounted by the quadrant. Just like adjusting cables on a bicycle.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 19 September 2019 at 00:19 "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote: 

Hi Ruedi,
The best is to fix it, but if you fix it it MUST be without any gap (possibility that the rude can move) ... else do not fix it ...
JLMERTZ
CottonBay


Le 18/09/2019 à 11:52, Rudolf Waldispuehl a écrit : 
Dear Amel'ias

I’m curious about experience with tie on the steering wheel and maybe someone has a proven technical answer. 
When I’m on Anchor or in a Marina I always fix/tie the steering wheel in the cockpit with a rope. After this summer in many anchorages with some swell I was not sure anymore if these is the right solution. 
 
Always when small waves hitting the rudder the wheel tried to turn in one or other direction and there is a noticeable noise (little dong) on the cables. 
When I was loosing the rope then the noise was notable under the aft bed because the Autopilot linear drive gear is moving and made noise.   
I’m now quite unsecure which option is the better, -  fix the wheel or let it move around?  Both ways are working on either AP Linear drive and/or steering cables. 
 
Would be the best option to make a fix/tie on the rudder quadrant to stop moving? Has someone done it? 
What is your experience and long-term observations? 
 
Thanks for your thought and best regards
Ruedi
SY-WASABI 
AMEL 54#55

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com

 

 




Re: Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

James Cromie
 

Correction:  I like to use “waxless”... not “way less” gelcoat!

Color matching is not difficult if you have patience.  The texturing might be best accomplished by someone being paid $75//hr.   
I agree with removing the life raft personally - For reasons mentioned.  
I prefer to keep my life raft in the cockpit port lazarette.  This is the most protected place to remove it, though requires a bit of strength for raising it out which is the main drawback... but for my wife or myself,  it is not an issue.  Having it out on the life rail or deck leaves it exposed to tons of water washing over your boat, and exposes crew to the greater risk of being swept off.   Also, I imagine  the lifespan of the life raft is likely to be longer in a place protected from the elements.   

I think having the deck as clear as possible improves overall safety and security.  

James
Sv Soteria 


On Jan 15, 2020, at 6:11 PM, James Cromie via Groups.Io <jamescromie@...> wrote:

Congratulations Elise and Kevin. Looks like a nice boat you’ve got yourselves!  For the reason you’ve described, I strive to avoid putting any new holes in the boat because of the risk of eventual water intrusion.  Amels are incredibly dry yachts in their original design.  
I had a solar arch made to replace smaller davits already in place on the stern.  These left holes in the stern that communicated with the stern lazarette.  To fill the holes, I redrilled them and chamfered inside and outside.  After carefully cleaning with acetone, I filled the holes with West System epoxy, using the UV and water protectant high density filler.  This filler allows you to achieve a peanut butter consistency.  Using a syringe, it can be inserted into the holes which have already been masked with tape.  The epoxy is easily workable and a putty knife is used to trim away any excess.  Before fully curing, remove tape.  
Lightly sand when fully cured and re apply gel coat to the areas.  I like to use way less gelcoat so that I can apply multiple coats to count our it better. You can feather it and color match by trial and error and it works out well.   Getting the same surface texture is difficult and I don’t have any tricks on that yet!    I would not keep hardware in place because it will eventually leak and corrosion will eventually set in.  

Best,
James
Sv Soteria #347
Las perlas, Panama 


On Jan 14, 2020, at 5:11 PM, Kevin Fox via Groups.Io <foxkm@...> wrote:

Greetings All.  My family and I are excited to be the new owners of Rascal.  I've been following this forum for over a year and am impressed by, and appreciative of, all the knowledge that Amel owners are willing to share.  I hope to get up to speed quickly and do my part to help others.

Rascal has a life raft mounted in a rack on the cabin trunk immediately aft of the mizzen mast. We’re not big fans of this location and plan to move it. One of the issues is that there are leaks around some of the bolts. There are twelve total, in groups of three. We can see the screw heads in the aft head and in the passageway just outside the aft head.
 
If we remove the rack we’ll need to fill the holes. I’ve seen information on how to clean out holes in fiberglass decks, including trying to remove some of the coring around the hole if wet, in preparation for filling them with thickened epoxy. Are there any tricks or special procedures for this type of repair on an Amel?
 
I don’t think we’ll be able to access the bottom of the fiberglass from inside the boat, so I’m guessing that we’ll need to use high viscosity (well-thickened) epoxy. Am I correct that there is space between the cabin ceiling and the fiberglass?
 
Another approach might be to put new, low-profile bolts in these holes and re-bed them well. Replacement bolts might also solve the issue of what to do with the holes left in the cabin ceiling. 
 
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!

<IMG_3549.JPG>

<IMG_3550.JPG>

<IMG_1190.jpg>

----
Kevin and Elise Fox
SM2k #404 Rascal
Charleston, SC


Re: Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

James Cromie
 

Congratulations Elise and Kevin. Looks like a nice boat you’ve got yourselves!  For the reason you’ve described, I strive to avoid putting any new holes in the boat because of the risk of eventual water intrusion.  Amels are incredibly dry yachts in their original design.  
I had a solar arch made to replace smaller davits already in place on the stern.  These left holes in the stern that communicated with the stern lazarette.  To fill the holes, I redrilled them and chamfered inside and outside.  After carefully cleaning with acetone, I filled the holes with West System epoxy, using the UV and water protectant high density filler.  This filler allows you to achieve a peanut butter consistency.  Using a syringe, it can be inserted into the holes which have already been masked with tape.  The epoxy is easily workable and a putty knife is used to trim away any excess.  Before fully curing, remove tape.  
Lightly sand when fully cured and re apply gel coat to the areas.  I like to use way less gelcoat so that I can apply multiple coats to count our it better. You can feather it and color match by trial and error and it works out well.   Getting the same surface texture is difficult and I don’t have any tricks on that yet!    I would not keep hardware in place because it will eventually leak and corrosion will eventually set in.  

Best,
James
Sv Soteria #347
Las perlas, Panama 


On Jan 14, 2020, at 5:11 PM, Kevin Fox via Groups.Io <foxkm@...> wrote:

Greetings All.  My family and I are excited to be the new owners of Rascal.  I've been following this forum for over a year and am impressed by, and appreciative of, all the knowledge that Amel owners are willing to share.  I hope to get up to speed quickly and do my part to help others.

Rascal has a life raft mounted in a rack on the cabin trunk immediately aft of the mizzen mast. We’re not big fans of this location and plan to move it. One of the issues is that there are leaks around some of the bolts. There are twelve total, in groups of three. We can see the screw heads in the aft head and in the passageway just outside the aft head.
 
If we remove the rack we’ll need to fill the holes. I’ve seen information on how to clean out holes in fiberglass decks, including trying to remove some of the coring around the hole if wet, in preparation for filling them with thickened epoxy. Are there any tricks or special procedures for this type of repair on an Amel?
 
I don’t think we’ll be able to access the bottom of the fiberglass from inside the boat, so I’m guessing that we’ll need to use high viscosity (well-thickened) epoxy. Am I correct that there is space between the cabin ceiling and the fiberglass?
 
Another approach might be to put new, low-profile bolts in these holes and re-bed them well. Replacement bolts might also solve the issue of what to do with the holes left in the cabin ceiling. 
 
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!

<IMG_3549.JPG>

<IMG_3550.JPG>

<IMG_1190.jpg>

----
Kevin and Elise Fox
SM2k #404 Rascal
Charleston, SC


Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

Scott SV Tengah
 

On Frigoboat systems with multiple compressors, the pump interface is used. This also divides 24v to 12v to power the fridges. It has been explained to me that Frigoboat sells you a 24v pump and runs it at 12v. Theoretically it should be continuous duty at that point as it's running slower and cooler. This is not the case for the vast majority of us, it seems. It would be better if it coordinated compressor run times, but alas that's not the case.

Soraya - I purchased the Marco pump as my FIFTH one onboard. I still have 3 total Frigoboat pumps remaining so I will use all of those and then switch over to the Marco. Is the noise annoying? As noted, mine runs 80% duty cycle or so.

Stefan wrote on another post (https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/topic/pump/69698758?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,69698758) that he's used a magnetic pump that lasted a really long time. I looked at the PDF and it seems Y-1638-MM would work great if you set it to run about 4-6 liters per minute.
https://www.speck.de/fileadmin/user_upload/files/data_sheets/en/my-3-mm.pdf
It seems to draw very little power at that level and it appears to have a large head capacity. Someone smarter than me needs to figure out if that means it can self prime and push water through the circuit connecting all 3 compressors? It's 24v, which would mean you'd probably have to either just run it on the 12v that comes out of the Frigoboat pump interface or install a relay into the system and run it on 24v. Any engineer want to give an opinion on this solution?

FYI Frigoboat specifically states the water hoses should run parallel from the pump to the individual compressors and our A54 has them run sequentially. That probably just means after the first fridge, each subsequent fridge is getting slightly warmer water.

I believe the new Amels have keel cooled fridges. I believe that's a better solution but I try not to intentionally put more holes in the hull, so I won't be retrofitting in the middle of our circumnavigation!

Finally, my A54 is plumbed to use fresh water to cool the fridges. We have no growth issues and pumps still last 6 months. So that won't solve the short pump life problem. I tend to agree that the insulation is crap. On the under settee freezer, the items that are far from the evaporator "cage" often thaw out, even with the freezer on max. I have added supplemental sealing on the lid, which helps, but the problem still exists.

The FW water tank temp never gets noticeably warmer but we also never drop below 150 liters. As you know, it's in the keel, but GRP is not a fantastic thermal conductor, so there is some the temp will always be a bit higher than surrounding water, imo. There has been some discussion of lead solder on the copper piping. I am not sure if this is true or not, but to be safe we only cook and drink water from the  Seagull filter. I have used their portable version while backcountry camping and once found myself at a lake full of cow poop. We had no choice but to use the water and I am still alive today. In any event, most brass and copper fittings in homes have lead in them. 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

Brian Gifford
 

Hi Kevin, 
If you decide to remove the rack from the boat and need someone to do the gelcoat in the Charleston area I would recommend to get in touch with Luke at Carolina Custom Restorations. I have seen a bunch of his work and he does top notch stuff and her is a really nice guy too. 
I like your idea of using low profile bolts to fill the holes, I would say to use butyl tape to seal the heads to the deck since the stuff is so effective. Just be sure not to let the heads move if you use the butyl, movement of the head will break the seal. 


Re: Looks like Amel hit one out of the box.

Arno Luijten
 

It is good to hear Amel chose the right way forward for evolving their yachts. Just saw the Yachting World Youtube about the Amel 60, it seems again a very well put together boat and I’m sure it will outsell the 64.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say. So if people on this forum think Amel is going into the wrong direction with their designs, from their point of view they are right. The success of Amel is important to all of us, as it also enables them to provide after-sales service to their older boats. With the complexity of our boats this is very important. So I really hope the waiting-list for the 60 will be just als long as for the 50 and we can happily keep ordering spare parts!
For me I’m really happy with the design of our trusty 54 and stil gets me more exited then the design of the 50. But I’m not a potential buyer for a new 50-60 foot yacht so even if Amel’s choices are not the one I would like to see, reality is they make better choices then I would in their place.

Just my 2 cents....

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121