Date   

[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Sorry Eric.

Let me try again. Please see the photo labeled Outhaul Drive Shaft #2 in the SM Outhaul
Service Folder in the photos section. The shaft is shown in the removed condition. When
assembled, the shaft is down thru the center of the gear assembly. Now imagine that you
are trying to PUSH the shaft out of the gear assembly. If you place the fingers of both your
hands on the top cover of the gear assembly (equivalent to the fingers of the puller) and
use both your thumbs to push the shaft out of the gear assembly (equivalent to the
threaded screw of the puller) you have an idea of what is accomplished. Because the
horizontal reach of the puller fingers couldn't reach past the edges of the mounting
bracket to engage the top of the gearbox cover, a piece of metal was placed across the top
of the gearbox cover which bore on the cover while the fingers engaged the cross piece.
I wish I had a picture because a picture would be worth a million words.
Let me know how we are doing in this explanation.

Gary

the the top of the . your --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric
<kimberlite@...> wrote:


Gary,

Sorry I don't quite get it.

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 11:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box



Eric: The link that I posted shows the puller with the jaws and puller bolt
pointed downward.
In the case of the shaft on the outhaul this was inverted so that the puller
bolt (in the center
of the puller) was impacting on the shaft from the bottom. He place a short
bolt in the
threaded hole in the bottom of the shaft (where the seal cover cup and bolt
was) to protect
the shaft and threads. The jaws of the puller were placed on a piece of
metal that passed
across the top of the gearbox in the window that is formed between the
bottom of the boom
and the top of the mounting bracket. Thus the pressure was on the shaft from
below and
the jaws were gripping on the top of the gearbox. I hope that makes sense.
In this case it
wasn't really a puller but rather a pusher or on the other hand you are
pulling the gearbox off
the shaft of the winch. I hope that helps.

Gary

Eric Asked:

" to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?"





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

eric freedman
 

Gary,

Sorry I don't quite get it.

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 11:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box



Eric: The link that I posted shows the puller with the jaws and puller bolt
pointed downward.
In the case of the shaft on the outhaul this was inverted so that the puller
bolt (in the center
of the puller) was impacting on the shaft from the bottom. He place a short
bolt in the
threaded hole in the bottom of the shaft (where the seal cover cup and bolt
was) to protect
the shaft and threads. The jaws of the puller were placed on a piece of
metal that passed
across the top of the gearbox in the window that is formed between the
bottom of the boom
and the top of the mounting bracket. Thus the pressure was on the shaft from
below and
the jaws were gripping on the top of the gearbox. I hope that makes sense.
In this case it
wasn't really a puller but rather a pusher or on the other hand you are
pulling the gearbox off
the shaft of the winch. I hope that helps.

Gary

Eric Asked:

" to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?"


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Jorge:

I have not removed the motor yet. I pulled the parts off the boom just as we were
preparing to put the boat on the hard for the hurricane season. I stowed the
disassembled parts below and left the boat. I won't get back to finish the disassembly
until December. I was told by the same machinist that aided in the removal that the
motor just dismounts when the four mounting bolts are released and the motor has a
keyway that insets into the shaft of the steel drive worm gear. I can't say for sure if that is
correct or not. I do know from Olivier Beaute at Amel that there is a thrust bearing on the
end of the drive worm gear (under the small cover on the side of the gearbox). That tidbit
of information has nothing to do with your question, I just pass it along because it came
from Olivier at Amel. It sure would be nice to have an exploded parts diagram for this
gearbox and motor. I am going to contact Olivier this coming week to see if he can
provide one, if so I will post it here.

Regards,
Gary

Hi Gary
Thanks for your prompt response..
One more question... Is there any trick in pulling the gear box from the motor shaft after
I take the retainer?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge


Re: Main sail furling gear box

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Eric: The link that I posted shows the puller with the jaws and puller bolt pointed downward.
In the case of the shaft on the outhaul this was inverted so that the puller bolt (in the center
of the puller) was impacting on the shaft from the bottom. He place a short bolt in the
threaded hole in the bottom of the shaft (where the seal cover cup and bolt was) to protect
the shaft and threads. The jaws of the puller were placed on a piece of metal that passed
across the top of the gearbox in the window that is formed between the bottom of the boom
and the top of the mounting bracket. Thus the pressure was on the shaft from below and
the jaws were gripping on the top of the gearbox. I hope that makes sense. In this case it
wasn't really a puller but rather a pusher or on the other hand you are pulling the gearbox off
the shaft of the winch. I hope that helps.

Gary

Eric Asked:

" to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

Udo <udo@...>
 

I put the whole part into a hydraulic press and with a pin smaller than
the shaft pushed it out. It did take quite some force but it came out
clean.



Udo



SM #50 Cloud Seven



________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of eric
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box



Gary,

to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?

thanks

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jorge Zlatar
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 11:43 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

Hi Gary
Thanks for your prompt response..
One more question... Is there any trick in pulling the gear box from the
motor shaft after I take the retainer?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge

--- On Thu, 7/17/08, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroup
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> s.com> wrote:
From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroup
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>
s.com>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, July 17, 2008, 12:41 PM

Hi Jorge:

I have recently removed the outhaul gearbox from the boom. I have posted
some pictures

of the gearbox in the photos section. This was a tough job but the boom
did
not need to

be removed. Look at the photos I have posted for parts identification in
the
photos

section of this web site. You need to remove the gearbox in order to
service
it but also you

have to remove it to lubricate the Anderson winch bearings.

To remove the gearbox:

1. Remove the bolt that holds the arm on the top of the Anderson winch.
This
releases

the drive shaft from the winch capstan.

2. Next remove the bolt on the bottom center of the gear box. This bolt
is
threaded into

the drive shaft and has has a small cup like cover that covers the lower
bearing seal.

3. Finally drive the shaft upward and out of the gear box and winch.
This is
the hard part.

Some on this site have had luck threading a 4 inch long non-stainless
steel
metric bolt

into the shaft where this lower bolt was just removed and pounding on
the
bolt to drive

the shaft upward. I did this, 2 hours of pounding with a two pound
sledge
hammer, until I

thought I would destroy the boom due to excess fatigue failure of the
aluminum bracket

that holds the gear box. The shaft didn't move even a fraction of a
centimeter (this even

after I soaked the shaft in penetrating oil for 24 hours). I next
consulted
a local machine

shop in Antigua Jolly Harbor and they used a straight jaw puller similar
to
this (

http://www.usatools inc.com/index. asp?PageAction= VIEWPROD&
ProdID=17071 )
note: if

this link doesn't work just use google and search for straight jaw
puller,
and they had the

shaft out within 15 minutes. The shaft runs up through the gearbox and
winch
in this

order (from bottom to top) lower seal, lower bearing, driven worm gear
(brass), upper

bearing, upper seal, Anderson winch bearings, Anderson winch head. There
was
no

corrosion holding my shaft in place, just lots of grease and
encrustations.
I intend to

purchase a straight jaw puller and remove my shaft every year or two for
lubrication.

Once the shaft is removed the gearbox can be removed from the boom by
removing the

four small mounting bolts that hold the box in place to the boom. The
gearbox covers do

not have any seals, just a press fit and perhaps a little sealant. Open
it
up both top and

bottom by gently inserting a broad blade putty knife into the parting
seams
and gently

working the covers off so as not to mar the parting surfaces. This will
give
access to the

internal parts. My original lubricant inside the gearbox was in good
condition after 7

years and 12,000 sea miles. My reason for removing the gearbox was to do
routine

preventative maintenance and to repaint the failed paint on the box. The
gearbox is cast

ferrous metal (not aluminum) and I suspect had poor quality paint. If
Amel
had painted it I

don't think it would have failed. My brass driven worm gear was worn and
needed to be

replaced. Olivier Beaute of Amel after sales has the brass gear
available
from the original

vendor as a special order item for 180 euros excluding VAT and a
complete
new gear box

for 541 euros exc VAT. Removal of the gearbox on the main sail furling I
believe will be

easier. I hope this helps.

Gary Silver SM 335

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Jorge Zlatar <jorge.zlatar@
...>
wrote:

Dear Members
I am considering replacing the two gear boxes of the main sail furling
system on a SM-

97 model. Does any body have any tips on this job? Amel told me that I
have
to take the

boom down. Are there any other alternatives?

Thanks in advance
Jorge
SM 195


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

eric freedman
 

Gary,

to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?

thanks

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jorge Zlatar
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 11:43 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box



Hi Gary
Thanks for your prompt response..
One more question... Is there any trick in pulling the gear box from the
motor shaft after I take the retainer?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge

--- On Thu, 7/17/08, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroup
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> s.com> wrote:
From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroup <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>
s.com>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, July 17, 2008, 12:41 PM

Hi Jorge:

I have recently removed the outhaul gearbox from the boom. I have posted
some pictures

of the gearbox in the photos section. This was a tough job but the boom did
not need to

be removed. Look at the photos I have posted for parts identification in the
photos

section of this web site. You need to remove the gearbox in order to service
it but also you

have to remove it to lubricate the Anderson winch bearings.

To remove the gearbox:

1. Remove the bolt that holds the arm on the top of the Anderson winch. This
releases

the drive shaft from the winch capstan.

2. Next remove the bolt on the bottom center of the gear box. This bolt is
threaded into

the drive shaft and has has a small cup like cover that covers the lower
bearing seal.

3. Finally drive the shaft upward and out of the gear box and winch. This is
the hard part.

Some on this site have had luck threading a 4 inch long non-stainless steel
metric bolt

into the shaft where this lower bolt was just removed and pounding on the
bolt to drive

the shaft upward. I did this, 2 hours of pounding with a two pound sledge
hammer, until I

thought I would destroy the boom due to excess fatigue failure of the
aluminum bracket

that holds the gear box. The shaft didn't move even a fraction of a
centimeter (this even

after I soaked the shaft in penetrating oil for 24 hours). I next consulted
a local machine

shop in Antigua Jolly Harbor and they used a straight jaw puller similar to
this (

http://www.usatools inc.com/index. asp?PageAction= VIEWPROD& ProdID=17071 )
note: if

this link doesn't work just use google and search for straight jaw puller,
and they had the

shaft out within 15 minutes. The shaft runs up through the gearbox and winch
in this

order (from bottom to top) lower seal, lower bearing, driven worm gear
(brass), upper

bearing, upper seal, Anderson winch bearings, Anderson winch head. There was
no

corrosion holding my shaft in place, just lots of grease and encrustations.
I intend to

purchase a straight jaw puller and remove my shaft every year or two for
lubrication.

Once the shaft is removed the gearbox can be removed from the boom by
removing the

four small mounting bolts that hold the box in place to the boom. The
gearbox covers do

not have any seals, just a press fit and perhaps a little sealant. Open it
up both top and

bottom by gently inserting a broad blade putty knife into the parting seams
and gently

working the covers off so as not to mar the parting surfaces. This will give
access to the

internal parts. My original lubricant inside the gearbox was in good
condition after 7

years and 12,000 sea miles. My reason for removing the gearbox was to do
routine

preventative maintenance and to repaint the failed paint on the box. The
gearbox is cast

ferrous metal (not aluminum) and I suspect had poor quality paint. If Amel
had painted it I

don't think it would have failed. My brass driven worm gear was worn and
needed to be

replaced. Olivier Beaute of Amel after sales has the brass gear available
from the original

vendor as a special order item for 180 euros excluding VAT and a complete
new gear box

for 541 euros exc VAT. Removal of the gearbox on the main sail furling I
believe will be

easier. I hope this helps.

Gary Silver SM 335

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Jorge Zlatar <jorge.zlatar@ ...>
wrote:

Dear Members
I am considering replacing the two gear boxes of the main sail furling
system on a SM-

97 model. Does any body have any tips on this job? Amel told me that I have
to take the

boom down. Are there any other alternatives?

Thanks in advance
Jorge
SM 195


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

Jorge Zlatar <jorge.zlatar@...>
 

Hi Gary
Thanks for your prompt response..
One more question... Is there any trick in pulling the gear box from the motor shaft after I take the retainer?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge

--- On Thu, 7/17/08, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, July 17, 2008, 12:41 PM











Hi Jorge:



I have recently removed the outhaul gearbox from the boom. I have posted some pictures

of the gearbox in the photos section. This was a tough job but the boom did not need to

be removed. Look at the photos I have posted for parts identification in the photos

section of this web site. You need to remove the gearbox in order to service it but also you

have to remove it to lubricate the Anderson winch bearings.

To remove the gearbox:

1. Remove the bolt that holds the arm on the top of the Anderson winch. This releases

the drive shaft from the winch capstan.

2. Next remove the bolt on the bottom center of the gear box. This bolt is threaded into

the drive shaft and has has a small cup like cover that covers the lower bearing seal.

3. Finally drive the shaft upward and out of the gear box and winch. This is the hard part.

Some on this site have had luck threading a 4 inch long non-stainless steel metric bolt

into the shaft where this lower bolt was just removed and pounding on the bolt to drive

the shaft upward. I did this, 2 hours of pounding with a two pound sledge hammer, until I

thought I would destroy the boom due to excess fatigue failure of the aluminum bracket

that holds the gear box. The shaft didn't move even a fraction of a centimeter (this even

after I soaked the shaft in penetrating oil for 24 hours). I next consulted a local machine

shop in Antigua Jolly Harbor and they used a straight jaw puller similar to this (

http://www.usatools inc.com/index. asp?PageAction= VIEWPROD& ProdID=17071 ) note: if

this link doesn't work just use google and search for straight jaw puller, and they had the

shaft out within 15 minutes. The shaft runs up through the gearbox and winch in this

order (from bottom to top) lower seal, lower bearing, driven worm gear (brass), upper

bearing, upper seal, Anderson winch bearings, Anderson winch head. There was no

corrosion holding my shaft in place, just lots of grease and encrustations. I intend to

purchase a straight jaw puller and remove my shaft every year or two for lubrication.

Once the shaft is removed the gearbox can be removed from the boom by removing the

four small mounting bolts that hold the box in place to the boom. The gearbox covers do

not have any seals, just a press fit and perhaps a little sealant. Open it up both top and

bottom by gently inserting a broad blade putty knife into the parting seams and gently

working the covers off so as not to mar the parting surfaces. This will give access to the

internal parts. My original lubricant inside the gearbox was in good condition after 7

years and 12,000 sea miles. My reason for removing the gearbox was to do routine

preventative maintenance and to repaint the failed paint on the box. The gearbox is cast

ferrous metal (not aluminum) and I suspect had poor quality paint. If Amel had painted it I

don't think it would have failed. My brass driven worm gear was worn and needed to be

replaced. Olivier Beaute of Amel after sales has the brass gear available from the original

vendor as a special order item for 180 euros excluding VAT and a complete new gear box

for 541 euros exc VAT. Removal of the gearbox on the main sail furling I believe will be

easier. I hope this helps.



Gary Silver SM 335



--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Jorge Zlatar <jorge.zlatar@ ...> wrote:

Dear Members
I am considering replacing the two gear boxes of the main sail furling system on a SM-
97 model. Does any body have any tips on this job? Amel told me that I have to take the

boom down. Are there any other alternatives?

Thanks in advance
Jorge
SM 195


Re: Main sail furling gear box

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Jorge:

I have recently removed the outhaul gearbox from the boom. I have posted some pictures
of the gearbox in the photos section. This was a tough job but the boom did not need to
be removed. Look at the photos I have posted for parts identification in the photos
section of this web site. You need to remove the gearbox in order to service it but also you
have to remove it to lubricate the Anderson winch bearings.
To remove the gearbox:
1. Remove the bolt that holds the arm on the top of the Anderson winch. This releases
the drive shaft from the winch capstan.
2. Next remove the bolt on the bottom center of the gear box. This bolt is threaded into
the drive shaft and has has a small cup like cover that covers the lower bearing seal.
3. Finally drive the shaft upward and out of the gear box and winch. This is the hard part.
Some on this site have had luck threading a 4 inch long non-stainless steel metric bolt
into the shaft where this lower bolt was just removed and pounding on the bolt to drive
the shaft upward. I did this, 2 hours of pounding with a two pound sledge hammer, until I
thought I would destroy the boom due to excess fatigue failure of the aluminum bracket
that holds the gear box. The shaft didn't move even a fraction of a centimeter (this even
after I soaked the shaft in penetrating oil for 24 hours). I next consulted a local machine
shop in Antigua Jolly Harbor and they used a straight jaw puller similar to this (
http://www.usatoolsinc.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=17071 ) note: if
this link doesn't work just use google and search for straight jaw puller, and they had the
shaft out within 15 minutes. The shaft runs up through the gearbox and winch in this
order (from bottom to top) lower seal, lower bearing, driven worm gear (brass), upper
bearing, upper seal, Anderson winch bearings, Anderson winch head. There was no
corrosion holding my shaft in place, just lots of grease and encrustations. I intend to
purchase a straight jaw puller and remove my shaft every year or two for lubrication.
Once the shaft is removed the gearbox can be removed from the boom by removing the
four small mounting bolts that hold the box in place to the boom. The gearbox covers do
not have any seals, just a press fit and perhaps a little sealant. Open it up both top and
bottom by gently inserting a broad blade putty knife into the parting seams and gently
working the covers off so as not to mar the parting surfaces. This will give access to the
internal parts. My original lubricant inside the gearbox was in good condition after 7
years and 12,000 sea miles. My reason for removing the gearbox was to do routine
preventative maintenance and to repaint the failed paint on the box. The gearbox is cast
ferrous metal (not aluminum) and I suspect had poor quality paint. If Amel had painted it I
don't think it would have failed. My brass driven worm gear was worn and needed to be
replaced. Olivier Beaute of Amel after sales has the brass gear available from the original
vendor as a special order item for 180 euros excluding VAT and a complete new gear box
for 541 euros exc VAT. Removal of the gearbox on the main sail furling I believe will be
easier. I hope this helps.

Gary Silver SM 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Jorge Zlatar <jorge.zlatar@...> wrote:

Dear Members
I am considering replacing the two gear boxes of the main sail furling system on a SM-
97 model. Does any body have any tips on this job? Amel told me that I have to take the
boom down. Are there any other alternatives?
Thanks in advance
Jorge
SM 195


Main sail furling gear box

Jorge Zlatar <jorge.zlatar@...>
 

Dear Members
I am considering replacing the two gear boxes of the main sail furling system on a SM-97 model. Does any body have any tips on this job? Amel told me that I have to take the boom down. Are there any other alternatives?
Thanks in advance
Jorge
SM 195


Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Deck Locker Gaskets

anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
 

Richard,

That is a great suggestion and solution. We have been very frustrated
in our attempts to obtain the original equipment.

On another matter, could someone please give us the length of the gas
struts used for the engine room hatch?

Best Regards,

John and Anne
Annie M
Mango #1


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "richard03801"
<richard03801@...> wrote:

Hi, we have used the same rubber as used in "wet suits" and built
it up to the same
approx. thickness. We also used it seal the bow thruster, double
seals on the outside of
the shaft to keep the water out. It takes a bit of work but it
works.
Richard on SM 209 in the Med. GIB


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Dave Benjamin
<dave_benjamin@> wrote:

I've found some hard to find seals at various industrial seal
suppliers.

--- On Tue, 6/3/08, John and Anne Hollamby annejohn@ wrote:

From: John and Anne Hollamby annejohn@
Subject: Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Deck Locker Gaskets
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, June 3, 2008, 1:38 AM






Hello Anne and John,
If you are very rich order it from Amel (shipping costs will be
huge).
If you are not so rich look at adverts in classic car magazines
for suppliers of seals and
trims for cars or boats. A UK site is www.sealsplusdirect .co.uk.
There must also be
suppliers listed in Yellow Pages.

Happy hunting, Anne and John SM319
----- Original Message -----
From: anniemno1
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 7:18 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Deck Locker Gaskets

Does anyone know where to purchase the one-inch half round sponge
gaskets used on the engine compartment and locker hatches?

Regards,

Anne and John
Annie M
Mango #1
Kemah, TX

------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.5/1479 - Release Date:
02/06/2008 19:02

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


chain counter display

Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

Hello All,

My chain counter has stopped working—again. Last winter I replaced the
sensor and doing this solved the problem. Now the display just shows
00 and does not count. The sensor and the counter appear to be
working. Does anyone know anything about the display, or maybe have a
schematic of it?

Miles Bidwell
Sm 216 LADYBUG


Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Deck Locker Gaskets

richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi, we have used the same rubber as used in "wet suits" and built it up to the same
approx. thickness. We also used it seal the bow thruster, double seals on the outside of
the shaft to keep the water out. It takes a bit of work but it works.
Richard on SM 209 in the Med. GIB


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Dave Benjamin <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

I've found some hard to find seals at various industrial seal suppliers.

--- On Tue, 6/3/08, John and Anne Hollamby annejohn@... wrote:

From: John and Anne Hollamby annejohn@...
Subject: Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Deck Locker Gaskets
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, June 3, 2008, 1:38 AM






Hello Anne and John,
If you are very rich order it from Amel (shipping costs will be huge).
If you are not so rich look at adverts in classic car magazines for suppliers of seals and
trims for cars or boats. A UK site is www.sealsplusdirect .co.uk. There must also be
suppliers listed in Yellow Pages.

Happy hunting, Anne and John SM319
----- Original Message -----
From: anniemno1
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 7:18 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Deck Locker Gaskets

Does anyone know where to purchase the one-inch half round sponge
gaskets used on the engine compartment and locker hatches?

Regards,

Anne and John
Annie M
Mango #1
Kemah, TX

------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.5/1479 - Release Date: 02/06/2008 19:02

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Second Auto Helm Drive unit under aft bunk

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hello Jim,
I think you ill find a pic showing the drive unit in the photos section in the " changes to Bali Hai" album but it is probably not good enough for your purposes.

Regards, Anne and John SM319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Second Auto Helm Drive unit under aft bunk

tonic102004 <aebersoldp@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Dernehl"
<jim.dernehl@...> wrote:

Dear Members

I am considering the installation of a second DRIVE UNIT for my auto
helm---to be located under the aft bunk. I believe this has been done on
some of the Amel Super Maramu boats . It would be very helpful if I
could get a photo from some member showing how this second drive is
positioned under the bunk and attached to the steering shaft.
Thanks in advance.
Jim Dernehl
PAO-SAN #88



Hello Jim,
I am in the same situation as you. Patrick has installed on his
"Caramel" a 2nd motor in the cupboard above the pantry. I think, I
will have Raymarine doing a same installation. Here is the link to his
website with a photo: http://www.amelcaramel.net/techpilote.php

Brgs
Paul Aebersold
SM 227


Re: Staysail for SM

Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

Hi Eric,



I do have pictures, but they are on a disk somewhere on the boat. I will
send them when I find them if you can not get them from the sail maker--
"Sails GATEFF" jpgateff@gateffsails.com The sail is roller furling on a
permanent internal stay of high modulus line. The halyard goes through a
leather covered block that is attached at the upper spreaders by a rope
loop. The other attachment is a rope loop that fits around the big forward
cleat. The sheets go to the smaller cockpit winch and the furling line from
the continuous drum at the base of the sail is on a long elastic tensioner
at the aft big cleat so that the line can be looped around the main powered
winch for furling. In the Mediterranean, I often left the sail raised and
furled so that it would be ready if a surprise gale appeared. So far I have
not used the sail in a real storm as the wind has dropped each time I have
unfurled the sail. I am told that the lower center of effort and inboard
position allows the boat to sail better to windward in a strong wind and I
expect that this is the case.



Miles Bidwell s/y LADYBUG



SM 216


Re: Staysail for SM

iv_pepe <iv_pepe@...>
 

Dear Miles,

I get a neu set of Gateff sails incl. Staysail, he convens me to order
it, with the argument : this is a sail after 20 kn. I hope it work well.
Thank you fod comments.Best regards,

Iv Pepe s/y Fortuna SM 223
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Miles Bidwell" <mbidwell@...>
wrote:

I have one of these sails and I am happy that I do. It is a true storm
sail
and needs a lot of wind, but when the wind is too much for a reefed
geni, it
does very well. I understand that Gateff has made about 70 of these
sails
for Super Maramus.



Miles Bidwell (s/y LADYBUG)

Sm 216





Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] TMD 22 how to cleaned the heat exchanger

jlucmertz <jlmertz@...>
 

Merci,
I will try this,
JLuc
CottonBay
sm 316
____________________________

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne Hollamby"
<annejohn@...> wrote:

Bon Jour Jluc,
I would put it in a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid which
should be strong enough to dissolve all the lime deposits after a few
hours. If you suspect leaks you would have to get it tested and
repaired by a specialist, any marine engine mechanic should be able to
recomend a good one.

Bon chance, Anne and John, SM319



Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] TMD 22 how to cleaned the heat exchanger

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Bon Jour Jluc,
I would put it in a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid which should be strong enough to dissolve all the lime deposits after a few hours. If you suspect leaks you would have to get it tested and repaired by a specialist, any marine engine mechanic should be able to recomend a good one.

Bon chance, Anne and John, SM319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Staysail for SM

eric freedman
 

hi<
could you give us more info about the sail and the attachment points etc. do you have a drawing or
photos? have you flown it in a storm?
thanks
eric
sm 376 kiberlite

----- Original Message -----
From: Miles Bidwell
Date: Sunday, July 6, 2008 8:14 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Staysail for SM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

I have one of these sails and I am happy that I do. It is a
true storm sail
and needs a lot of wind, but when the wind is too much for a
reefed geni, it
does very well. I understand that Gateff has made about 70 of
these sails
for Super Maramus.



Miles Bidwell (s/y LADYBUG)

Sm 216






Re: Staysail for SM

Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

I have one of these sails and I am happy that I do. It is a true storm sail
and needs a lot of wind, but when the wind is too much for a reefed geni, it
does very well. I understand that Gateff has made about 70 of these sails
for Super Maramus.



Miles Bidwell (s/y LADYBUG)

Sm 216