Date   

Re: Fw: Alternator smart charger

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hi,

Most of these need to bypass the internal regulator, so if your alternator does not have an external connection (someones have), then you need to rework the alternator to have it. Talking to a experienced installer, the best seems to be ADVERC Mk.IVa (189 pounds), and also very robust as you can install it in the engine room. I have bad feedback (from same installer) about the Sterling Universal Advanced Digital Alternator Regulator AR12VD model (79 pounds) that works the same way because of overheating failures. There is a Sterling Pro Digital Advanced Regulator (125 punds) that incorporates a fan, but I would not put it in the engine room either.

However, Sterling has a unit AB1290 (219 pounds) that does not need to bypass the internal regulator and that looks very interesting (at least to me), because it also works as a battery bank charge splitter. It is easier to install and to remove. I need to decide.

Check here for more options and links to manufacturers, this a english shop that has good pricing. http://www.jgtech.com/alternators.htm

Regards
Jose Luis
Jose_Luis

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Iv Pepe <iv_pepe@...> wrote:





----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Iv Pepe <iv_pepe@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, April 5, 2009 9:57:04 AM
Subject: Alternator smart charger


Hallo Everyone,
Pls, your opinion abb. alternator smart charger Xantrex, Sterling ,Adverc,  Beter charging  or dameging
atteries?  Acc. Adverc opinion ,the ratio Altern.--Batter. is 1 to 3 ?
Thank you,
Pepe SM 223





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Diesel leak

augusto.dominguez <agdominguezo@...>
 

Matt,

As per your suggestion I read what Mauro had posted some time ago in reference to the fuel leak on his Euros. I subsequently sent him an email asking him if he was able to remove the fuel tank without cutting it up. (from your response I see he was unable to do so). As of now I still have not heard back from him.

I still hope to be able to remove the tank in one piece and presumably remove the bottom plate(where I am assuming the leak is sourced) and then weld on a new bottom plate with a stainless steel plate of slightly greater thickness.

I will post progress.

Greetings,

Augusto

Kayola, Euros #247

P.D. Sorry to hear you've got the same problem, cutting into the fiber will debilitate the internal structural integrity which will need to be adequately corrected after solving the diesel leak, a task which is seemingly a tedious one!


Re: Diesel Leak

matt <russisland@...>
 

Augusto,
I'm afraid I have this problem too...yesterday I'd check port side locker near the fuel inlet...all wood saturated with diesel...looks like a 'chainsaw" job to find the truth:(
But hey out on the high seas we can sleep after this solved;)
Best Regards
Cptn. Magic
SV. Darien
Amel Euros 39 #88

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "augusto.dominguez" <agdominguezo@...> wrote:

To Amel members:

I have observed on my Euros, a diesel seepage into the bilge. After checking the diverse lines/ connections/ filters, etc., I've unfortunately ascertained that the source of the leak is emanating from the starboard fuel tank, through what I believe to be a drainage aperture in the event water gets into the compartment which holds the fuel tank.

I recall reading on this site some time ago ( 18 ~ 24 months?) someone posting this same problem and that the corrective procedures required cutting the fiber to access the fuel tank. I would appreciate anyone who recollects the posting or for that matter has experienced this problem to please let me know procedures/solutions/corrective measures taken.

At present "on the hard' in Higuerote, Venezuela.

Thank you in advance.

Augusto Dominguez,

Kayola, Euros # 247


Re: Rép. : [Amel] Maramu - Has anyone replumbed galley sink to drain fwd 2 head intake?

joseph mc donnell
 

Does'nt the drain from the forwardhead use gravity to drain into the bilge, will you use a pump to push fluid forward, what about the build up of grease and gunk. All the pipe work is accessable in the engine compartment for cleaning purposes, added to all that will you have to drill through every rib and forward bulkhead. Leave it, the system works
Regards Joe McDonnnell to --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...> wrote:


You certainly have a good idea.
 
This is how the gally sink on the Mango does drain and it is very convenient.
 
I would suggest you check with Amel for the reason they change this very efficient system, and possibly seek thei advice on reproducing sama on a SM!
 
Serge D T , Mango _ 51

--- En date de : Mer, 8.4.09, Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@...> a écrit :

De: Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@...>
Objet: [Amel] Maramu - Has anyone replumbed galley sink to drain fwd 2 head intake?
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: mercredi 8 Avril 2009, 12 h 26






Been thinking about creating a small manifold of sorts attached to the seacock for the forward head raw water intake. My thought was the galley sink might drain better going to thru-hull located on centerline.

















Découvrez les photos les plus intéressantes du jour.
http://www.flickr.com/explore/interesting/7days/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


detailed plan of the electric cables on santorin

sollbergerp <sollbergerp@...>
 

Hi,
can anybody help me. I'm lookng for detailed plan of the electric cable plans on the santorin. We want to change all electronic components to raymarine and now we are looking for detailed plans that we can design our new component cables and we need to know which cable can be taken out. We want to install a bus on which we can plug any component from raymarine now and in future. Maybe somebody has more detailed plans, which could be sent by email, if they are existing in an digital version.
Many thanks for your answers

Philipp Sollberger, santorin 104


Re: Diesel Leak

matt <russisland@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "augusto.dominguez" <agdominguezo@...> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "matt" <russisland@> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "augusto.dominguez" <agdominguezo@> wrote:

To Amel members:

I have observed on my Euros, a diesel seepage into the bilge. After checking the diverse lines/ connections/ filters, etc., I've unfortunately ascertained that the source of the leak is emanating from the starboard fuel tank, through what I believe to be a drainage aperture in the event water gets into the compartment which holds the fuel tank.

I recall reading on this site some time ago ( 18 ~ 24 months?) someone posting this same problem and that the corrective procedures required cutting the fiber to access the fuel tank. I would appreciate anyone who recollects the posting or for that matter has experienced this problem to please let me know procedures/solutions/corrective measures taken.

At present "on the hard' in Higuerote, Venezuela.

Thank you in advance.

Augusto Dominguez,

Kayola, Euros # 247
Augusto:)

Please try do general search on "euros fuel tank problem", I found couple of comments in this matter, I've also had direct advice from Mauro with his bad experience in this case but advice he gave me was clear and very specific as well as time consuming and after all he was very happy with the final result. I own Euros 39 and looks like this problem is very common, but I have much more on my plate right now and can't get there without removing motor first.
Keep it posting or email me direct-I have original plans for Euros 39/1972 but not sure if placement of the components is exact on every model?? So far restoration work going very slowly do to the weather factor but fingers cross one day sh'll see the water again.
I would like to take opportunity and ask all owners of Euros 39/41 for advice and feedback in regards original components, it replacement and overall improvements to this great design.
I'm yachtie on the very tight budget and wold love to hear from other crusing Euros owners:)

Best Regards to You ALL !

Magic
SV. Darien
Amel#88
Matt,
Thanks, I will look into previous postings to see what I can come up with.
I would suspect that there are certain differences between the Euros 39' & the 41', albeit no clue if this affects the fuel tanks placement/location/access. I do have the schematics for the 41'.
Did Mauro have the same fuel leak problem? On the starboard side?
I will keep posting progress on the issue at hand.
Good luck with your project with Darien.

Regards,
Augusto Dominguez
Kayola, Euros #247
Augusto :)

I'd try contact Mauro by no luck so far...I hope he will give you good advice about this matter, in this situation I can only include in this message few lines of advice from him: "...In my boat I found the stainless steel tanks corroded (on some welding) and leaking. Unfortunately they are fiberglassed inside the hull under the cockpit lockers. I had to cut the locker bottoms and cut piece by piece the tanks to extract them. Then clean the fiberglass (sanding and acetone several times) and, after refiberglassing the bottom in epoxy, rebuild them in wood and fiberglassing them in epoxy. This was a real nightmare! I really wish you don't have the same problem."
Unfortunately I think I have this problem too:( but hey after all this is great boat and knowing her from inside out will make your voyages more enjoyable and safe.

With THE Best Regards

Cptn. Magic
SV DARIEN
Amel Euros #88


Rép. : [Amel] Maramu - Has anyone replumbed galley sink to drain fwd 2 head intake?

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

You certainly have a good idea.
 
This is how the gally sink on the Mango does drain and it is very convenient.
 
I would suggest you check with Amel for the reason they change this very efficient system, and possibly seek thei advice on reproducing sama on a SM!
 
Serge D T , Mango _ 51

--- En date de : Mer, 8.4.09, Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com> a écrit :

De: Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com>
Objet: [Amel] Maramu - Has anyone replumbed galley sink to drain fwd 2 head intake?
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: mercredi 8 Avril 2009, 12 h 26






Been thinking about creating a small manifold of sorts attached to the seacock for the forward head raw water intake. My thought was the galley sink might drain better going to thru-hull located on centerline.

















Découvrez les photos les plus intéressantes du jour.
http://www.flickr.com/explore/interesting/7days/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: GROUND SIDE SELENOID - YANMAR 100HP

usrey_chuck
 

Hello

No, I do not know the part number but I thought mine was bad and it turned out to be a bad start battery. Amel told me that was the problem but I did not believe them because it would turn over the main engine when I bypassed the selenoid. The problem was that because of the small gauge of the wire going to the selenoid it cut down the current and would not activate it. I replaced my start battery and everything worked. Good luck

Chuck

S/v Helen Louise
ASM350

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:

Greetings, does anyone know the part number for the gound side selenoid that sits just aft of starter relay mounted on the port side of the yanmar 100hp diesel engine. Thank you Peter Papppas SM#369 - Gulf de Papagayo, Costa Rica


GROUND SIDE SELENOID - YANMAR 100HP

pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
 

Greetings, does anyone know the part number for the gound side selenoid that sits just aft of starter relay mounted on the port side of the yanmar 100hp diesel engine. Thank you Peter Papppas SM#369 - Gulf de Papagayo, Costa Rica


Re: Diesel Leak

augusto.dominguez <agdominguezo@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "matt" <russisland@...> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "augusto.dominguez" <agdominguezo@> wrote:

To Amel members:

I have observed on my Euros, a diesel seepage into the bilge. After checking the diverse lines/ connections/ filters, etc., I've unfortunately ascertained that the source of the leak is emanating from the starboard fuel tank, through what I believe to be a drainage aperture in the event water gets into the compartment which holds the fuel tank.

I recall reading on this site some time ago ( 18 ~ 24 months?) someone posting this same problem and that the corrective procedures required cutting the fiber to access the fuel tank. I would appreciate anyone who recollects the posting or for that matter has experienced this problem to please let me know procedures/solutions/corrective measures taken.

At present "on the hard' in Higuerote, Venezuela.

Thank you in advance.

Augusto Dominguez,

Kayola, Euros # 247
Augusto:)

Please try do general search on "euros fuel tank problem", I found couple of comments in this matter, I've also had direct advice from Mauro with his bad experience in this case but advice he gave me was clear and very specific as well as time consuming and after all he was very happy with the final result. I own Euros 39 and looks like this problem is very common, but I have much more on my plate right now and can't get there without removing motor first.
Keep it posting or email me direct-I have original plans for Euros 39/1972 but not sure if placement of the components is exact on every model?? So far restoration work going very slowly do to the weather factor but fingers cross one day sh'll see the water again.
I would like to take opportunity and ask all owners of Euros 39/41 for advice and feedback in regards original components, it replacement and overall improvements to this great design.
I'm yachtie on the very tight budget and wold love to hear from other crusing Euros owners:)

Best Regards to You ALL !

Magic
SV. Darien
Amel#88
Matt,
Thanks, I will look into previous postings to see what I can come up with.
I would suspect that there are certain differences between the Euros 39' & the 41', albeit no clue if this affects the fuel tanks placement/location/access. I do have the schematics for the 41'.
Did Mauro have the same fuel leak problem? On the starboard side?
I will keep posting progress on the issue at hand.
Good luck with your project with Darien.

Regards,
Augusto Dominguez
Kayola, Euros #247


Re: Diesel Leak

matt <russisland@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "augusto.dominguez" <agdominguezo@...> wrote:

To Amel members:

I have observed on my Euros, a diesel seepage into the bilge. After checking the diverse lines/ connections/ filters, etc., I've unfortunately ascertained that the source of the leak is emanating from the starboard fuel tank, through what I believe to be a drainage aperture in the event water gets into the compartment which holds the fuel tank.

I recall reading on this site some time ago ( 18 ~ 24 months?) someone posting this same problem and that the corrective procedures required cutting the fiber to access the fuel tank. I would appreciate anyone who recollects the posting or for that matter has experienced this problem to please let me know procedures/solutions/corrective measures taken.

At present "on the hard' in Higuerote, Venezuela.

Thank you in advance.

Augusto Dominguez,

Kayola, Euros # 247
Augusto:)

Please try do general search on "euros fuel tank problem", I found couple of comments in this matter, I've also had direct advice from Mauro with his bad experience in this case but advice he gave me was clear and very specific as well as time consuming and after all he was very happy with the final result. I own Euros 39 and looks like this problem is very common, but I have much more on my plate right now and can't get there without removing motor first.
Keep it posting or email me direct-I have original plans for Euros 39/1972 but not sure if placement of the components is exact on every model?? So far restoration work going very slowly do to the weather factor but fingers cross one day sh'll see the water again.
I would like to take opportunity and ask all owners of Euros 39/41 for advice and feedback in regards original components, it replacement and overall improvements to this great design.
I'm yachtie on the very tight budget and wold love to hear from other crusing Euros owners:)

Best Regards to You ALL !

Magic
SV. Darien
Amel#88


Re: [Amel] Servo-assisted auxiliary windvane

Dave_Benjamin
 

Saw a HydroVane on a Mason 44. That looked pretty good.

--- On Tue, 4/7/09, Mr D <dshkipin@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Mr D <dshkipin@gmail.com>
Subject: [Amel] Servo-assisted auxiliary windvane
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 8:33 PM












Does anyone have South Atlantic servo-assisted auxiliary rudder gear windvane installed? It looks like a viable option to purchasing a more expensive Windpilot.




























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Maramu - Has anyone replumbed galley sink to drain fwd 2 head intake?

Dave_Benjamin
 

Been thinking about creating a small manifold of sorts attached to the seacock for the forward head raw water intake. My thought was the galley sink might drain better going to thru-hull located on centerline.


Servo-assisted auxiliary windvane

Mr D
 

Does anyone have South Atlantic servo-assisted auxiliary rudder gear windvane installed? It looks like a viable option to purchasing a more expensive Windpilot.


Diesel Leak

augusto.dominguez <agdominguezo@...>
 

To Amel members:

I have observed on my Euros, a diesel seepage into the bilge. After checking the diverse lines/ connections/ filters, etc., I've unfortunately ascertained that the source of the leak is emanating from the starboard fuel tank, through what I believe to be a drainage aperture in the event water gets into the compartment which holds the fuel tank.

I recall reading on this site some time ago ( 18 ~ 24 months?) someone posting this same problem and that the corrective procedures required cutting the fiber to access the fuel tank. I would appreciate anyone who recollects the posting or for that matter has experienced this problem to please let me know procedures/solutions/corrective measures taken.

At present "on the hard' in Higuerote, Venezuela.

Thank you in advance.

Augusto Dominguez,

Kayola, Euros # 247


MARAMU MIZZEN SAIL MEASUREMENTS NON FURLING VERSION

Alejandro Paquin
 

Does anyone have the detailed mizzen sail measurements for a 1981 Maramu. Ours is a non furling system. Also what hardware is required and original sail reefing data.

Regards,

A.Paquin
s/v SIMPATICO
MARAMU 1981


Re: 4154 Perkins - Maramu - Temperature sensors

Alejandro Paquin
 

Dear Barry & Robyn:
Many thanks for responding to my question. Although we own a Maramu, I will look at your diagram to see if the SM solution could apply as well.
All the best
A.Paquin

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Bernard PERIN <perin-bernard@...> wrote:

Hi,

Thank's a lot for your information, I was looking for a solution to get the water temperature and the oil pressure.

Yes I would like to have the wiring diagram, could you send it to me.

Best regards.

Bernard PERIN
SM 100





Message du 06/04/09 09:43
De : "seagasm"
A : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Copie à :
Objet : [Amel] Re: 4154 Perkins - Maramu - Temperature sensors

I am not sure whether you received information about this but I have been through the exercise myself after a bit of a scare the cooling intake became blocked. I decided to add analogue gauges so I could monitor the water temperature and the oil pressure. The Volvo character here steered me in the wrong direction and it was only due to some research myself I was able to work this out.
There are two water temperature sensors, one is a switch the other is a temperature sender. both have wires connected to them as part of the installation of the engine but the temperature sender is not terminated behind the dash, only the switch which is activated with the alarm when the temperature exceeds a number, by then it is probably too late. By installing a VDO temperature gauge (Perkins and Volvo use), to the blanked off wires from the sender off the engine that are behind the dash you can achieve your temperature reading.

Likewise with the oil pressure/switch on the engine, there are three wires. Two are connected to the oil pressure light, the third is blanked off. Get a VDO gauge and connect to the third wire behind the dash and bingo, we have an oil pressure reading.

I do have the wiring diagram if anyone wants it.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn Tradewinds III SM171

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alex Paquin" ...> wrote:

We have a Perkins 4154 engine on our 1981 Maramu. Ther seems to be two
temperature sensors at the top of the engine near the thermostat. One
is threaded right on the engine block. The second one in is on a T
connection right above it (hoses going to the fresh water heater).
Does anyone know what the finction of these are? I guess the one on
the engine block goes to the temperature gauge on the engine panel in
the cockpit and the second one is the temperature alarm actuator? The
second on has a 1/2 diameter thread. Does any one know where I can buy
this part new?

Alex Paquin
Simpatico
Amel Maramu #94

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: 4154 Perkins - Maramu - Temperature sensors

seagasm <seagasm@...>
 

I have uploaded the wiring diagram to the files folder. The numbered boxes in the component sketch represent the plug connection pins found behind the panel. The corresponding numbers in wiring circuit can be found on the bar of either the standard circuit (without gauges) or the De Luxe circuit (with gauges). All wiring is standard colour coded.

All the best
Barry & Robyn Tradewinds III SM #171

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, sailw32@... wrote:

Barry, I would appreciate the wiring diagram I have been wanting to add
gauges to my boat. Thanks,Pat SM123


In a message dated 4/6/2009 3:43:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
seagasm@... writes:




I am not sure whether you received information about this but I have been
through the exercise myself after a bit of a scare the cooling intake became
blocked. I decided to add analogue gauges so I could monitor the water
temperature and the oil pressure. The Volvo character here steered me in the wrong
direction and it was only due to some research myself I was able to work this
out.

There are two water temperature sensors, one is a switch the other is a
temperature sender. both have wires connected to them as part of the installation
of the engine but the temperature sender is not terminated behind the dash,
only the switch which is activated with the alarm when the temperature
exceeds a number, by then it is probably too late. By installing a VDO temperature
gauge (Perkins and Volvo use), to the blanked off wires from the sender off
the engine that are behind the dash you can achieve your temperature reading.

Likewise with the oil pressure/switch on the engine, there are three wires.
Two are connected to the oil pressure light, the third is blanked off. Get a
VDO gauge and connect to the third wire behind the dash and bingo, we have an
oil pressure reading.

I do have the wiring diagram if anyone wants it.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn Tradewinds III SM171

--- In _amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com) , "Alex Paquin" <alex.paquin@ale> wrote:

We have a Perkins 4154 engine on our 1981 Maramu. Ther seems to be two
temperature sensors at the top of the engine near the thermostat. One
is threaded right on the engine block. The second one in is on a T
connection right above it (hoses going to the fresh water heater).
Does anyone know what the finction of these are? I guess the one on
the engine block goes to the temperature gauge on the engine panel in
the cockpit and the second one is the temperature alarm actuator? The
second on has a 1/2 diameter thread. Does any one know where I can buy
this part new?

Alex Paquin
Simpatico
Amel Maramu #94




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Re: Onan Model 7 MDKVA starting problems

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Thanks Bill for your reply. I did just as you advised but without any luck.

I purchased a fuel shut off solenoid (as it contains a contact that is necessary for the start circuitry, I purchased K4 Relay, K1 Relay (that is good for all the other relays, a starter contacter etc. All this I hauled to the boat in the Caribbean along with the schematics that I had posted on this site and the service manual. I set about trouble shooting my system and everything that the book said to check was ok but the genset would not crank. I checked every continuity and all was ok, but still no start. I then began swapping out parts with new ones and still no cranking. I finally applied 24 volt power directly to the starter and it did not crank, so I assumed (incorrectly) that the starter was dead. (That is the one part I did not buy). The starter from the USA was going to be $570.00 USD (outrageous) so I tracked down a shop in Road Town Tortola, Al's Marine Service (I can high recommend them). The tested the starter and it worked fine. Just to be sure we disassembled it, inspected everything, found everything in practically new condition including brushes etc, lubed it and reassembled it. Back on the boat the thing would not start. While re-installing the starter I spied the ground side heavy duty solenoid that sits directly below the starter (part of the ground isolation option for the marine gensets). I tested across this and found that the coil was open. The engine case ground goes through this solenoid to the battery ground cable. Only the glow plugs and the starter are grounded to the engine block and then via the solenoid to the battery ground cable. All the other genset electronic's grounds go to a ground bus and then to the battery ground cable. If this ground side solenoid doesn't close during the start cycle then there is no ground path for the starter and the starter won't crank. The service manual does not mention trouble shooting this and all my previous, non-marine, mechanical electrical experience was with non-isolated grounds. Nigel Calder in his book gives an excellent summary of why this important on boats and if I had read that first then I would have saved some time and grief. At any rate I was able to get my genset running by using a screw and nut to bind all the grounds together and bypass the faulty solenoid. I did this at the risk of some galvanic corrosion occuring during the time that the genset runs as this effectively ties the electronics of the genset to the engine block. It will be short term until I can get a new solenoid.

So, moral to the story, on all things marine consider the ground side of the equation when trouble shooting electrical circuits as well as the hot side.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 Onan Model 7 MDKVA Specification B

PS When ordering parts for the Onan Genset they require you to know the Spec. (this is posted on the engine decals and is not part of the serial number or part number.)

-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Gary,

You were recently researching Onan starter problems as I did about a
year ago. I did not find information specific to my situation, but I
solved the problem. Unfortunately, I did not share this with the Group.

I had starting problems where the there was some clicking and fuel
pumping, but no starter engage. The Genset would go no error with an
indication that there was excessive cranking when in fact there was no
cranking.

Solution:
All of the sensor wire terminals (temp, exhaust temp, fuel pressure,
water flow, etc) and the Positive & Negative starter solenoid
connections were loosened, cleaned then reattached...I assume that one
or more of the terminals needed cleaning...no more problem.

I hope this helps you and/or someone else.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ


Re: Bowthruster and main propellor seals

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Brian,

The 80 x 60 x 12 seal is the seal for the bow thruster tube. This seal is under the upper foam seal on top of the Thruster Trunk. There are 3 foam seals...one upper two under the "Thruster Trunk" which is the rectangular shaft, fiber-glassed into the hull of the boat, in which the bow thruster foot assembly rides up and down.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Opua, New Zealand

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "briantrautman@..." <briant@...> wrote:

Hello,

We're located in Seattle, WA and preparing to head south this summer! We're hauling the boat ou next week and I had a question regarding the seals required for servicing the bow thruster.

In this thread I saw a mention of two different seals required:

one 80 x 60 x 12
one 42 x 30 x 7

I have 3 of the the 42 x 30 x 7 seal which appears to be a typical shaft&#92;oil seal.

Is the 80 x 60 x 12 seal the foam ring that the unit rests on or is this another shaft seal that I need to purchase? If it's the foam ring does anyone know of a good source to purchase spares or any ideas for making them yourself?

Regards,
Brian Trautman
SM#303 Delos