Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sonic Speed

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Gary,Your nose for where to look remains as sensitive as ever. When we tried to adjust the knob no light came on at all. Turns out that the transducers are fine ( thank goodness!) but there is a fault in the control box. Luckily I am going home to the UK next week so B&G can deal with it there.Cheers, Ian

http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/msnnkmgl0010000004ukm/direct/01/


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker fitting

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Eric, sorry to hear about your sail issues. Hope all
else is safe with the boat. As for the fittings when
we changed to manual system in St. Marrtin we simply
used a new high pressure hose. They are standard
fittings. If you have access to a hydraulic shop you
should be able to get fittings that will work.
Best wishes
Richard on Challenge SM 209
--- eric <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:

On our way home, the hose connected to the
watermaker membrane with the red
tape on it blew out of the connector. I was unable
to make a proper
connection again. How do I properly connect the hose
back to the connector
fitting?

We have the 160 liter per hour 220-volt watermaker.

Thank you.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: sails and ssb

Dave_Benjamin
 

Eric,

www.IslandPlanetSails.com

I can't say we're unbiased since we own the company but I know our sails hold together and we have clients with over 20K miles that are going strong.

D

--- On Sat, 5/24/08, eric <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:
From: eric <kimberlite@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: sails and ssb
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, May 24, 2008, 8:43 PM











I have had many problems with super sails.



last week their "guaranteed 50 knot" sail blew apart and tore in a number

of places.



this is the third time I have had problems with them and this one sail.



Fair Winds,



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Richard Piller

Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 5:14 PM

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: sails and ssb



to get the low down on battens call super sails in Fl.

they will make you a sail at the best prices...

Richard On Challenge SM 209

--- blowinahoudy <no_reply@yahoogrou p <mailto:no_reply% 40yahoogroups. com>

s.com> wrote:



--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
yahoogroups. com, minaxi53

<no_reply@.. .> wrote:
Joe
I have asked several sailmakers about a battened
main, I seem to
get a
different answer every time as to whether this is
possible on an
Amel
furling mast. Can you give more details of yours.
Bob
Minaxi SM6
--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
yahoogroups. com,

blowinahoudy <no_reply@>
wrote:
I would like to recommend two venders to the
group. We had a new
jib,
battened main, and battened mizzen made by Paul
Lockwood of Omar
Sailmakers in Beaufort,N.C. Found his prices
fair and his
workmanship
superb. Also he is a great guy to work with,even
drove me forty
miles
to a car rental and wouldn't let me buy him a
tank of gas. I'd
also
like to praise Steve Bowden and Pam (Brown?) of
Seatech Systems.
We
bought An Icom 802,Pactor 3, AIS package, DSC,
and wifi from
them. I
installed them myself and was in a little over
my head. Each time
I
called for advice I got help,either immediately
or soon
after. Sincerely, Joe
Metz, "Brown-Eyed
Girl
SM#87
Bob, The battens on a furling sail are short
multiple battens
located on the leach of the sail and they overlap.
While not as
effective as traditional battens,they do help. You
can contact Paul
Lockwood at 252-728-5598 with any questions. I'll be
out of contact
for a couple weeks; we're sailing from Fl. to Maine.
Joe


____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _

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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.

<http://mobile. yahoo.com/ ;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR 8HDtDypao8Wcj9tA cJ>

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watermaker fitting

eric freedman
 

On our way home, the hose connected to the watermaker membrane with the red
tape on it blew out of the connector. I was unable to make a proper
connection again. How do I properly connect the hose back to the connector
fitting?

We have the 160 liter per hour 220-volt watermaker.

Thank you.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: sails and ssb

eric freedman
 

I have had many problems with super sails.

last week their "guaranteed 50 knot" sail blew apart and tore in a number
of places.

this is the third time I have had problems with them and this one sail.

Fair Winds,



Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Piller
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 5:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: sails and ssb



to get the low down on battens call super sails in Fl.
they will make you a sail at the best prices...
Richard On Challenge SM 209
--- blowinahoudy <no_reply@yahoogroup <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>
s.com> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, minaxi53
<no_reply@...> wrote:

Joe
I have asked several sailmakers about a battened
main, I seem to
get a
different answer every time as to whether this is
possible on an
Amel
furling mast. Can you give more details of yours.
Bob
Minaxi SM6

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
blowinahoudy <no_reply@>
wrote:

I would like to recommend two venders to the
group. We had a new
jib,
battened main, and battened mizzen made by Paul
Lockwood of Omar
Sailmakers in Beaufort,N.C. Found his prices
fair and his
workmanship
superb. Also he is a great guy to work with,even
drove me forty
miles
to a car rental and wouldn't let me buy him a
tank of gas. I'd
also
like to praise Steve Bowden and Pam (Brown?) of
Seatech Systems.
We
bought An Icom 802,Pactor 3, AIS package, DSC,
and wifi from
them. I
installed them myself and was in a little over
my head. Each time
I
called for advice I got help,either immediately
or soon
after. Sincerely, Joe
Metz, "Brown-Eyed
Girl
SM#87
Bob, The battens on a furling sail are short
multiple battens
located on the leach of the sail and they overlap.
While not as
effective as traditional battens,they do help. You
can contact Paul
Lockwood at 252-728-5598 with any questions. I'll be
out of contact
for a couple weeks; we're sailing from Fl. to Maine.
Joe


__________________________________________________________
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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.
<http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ>
yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


Re: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replaceing the anchor windlass

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

John, we can get at all the nuts in the port side locker. The new windlass is going back as they sent 12 volts rather then 24.. We will use the counter that is on our old windlass. And add a hand held pendent to run it from the bow as well as from the cockpit. Our current plan is got this one replaced and a new one here before we sail for the Med in early June.

We'll install the new windlass when we get to the Med.
regards to all
Richard and Joan SM 209 in St Thomas bound for the Med.

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@melita.net.mt> wrote:
Hello Richard,
If your winch is installed like mine you may wish that you had the old one reconditioned in situ. As you might find on the search box under anchor winch I savaged mine in Croatia and had it repaired locally. At that time I looked in the chain locker and saw that the winch was fixed to the deck with four bolts. The nut on the starboard aft one was totally buried in resin and virtually inaccessible so I felt that it would be better to replace parts than to put a Leprachaun into the chainn locker to chip off the resin.
Hopefully yours is not the same.

Regards, Anne and John, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Piller
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:55 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replaceing the windlass

Hi, we use the same plastic bag method for keeping the
water out at sea. (ocean crossing and going to
windward)

We are about to replace the windlass as a whole. The
bearing have gone and it sounds like the worm gears
are gone as well. Has anyone replace the entire
windlass with a new Tigeress from Lofrans? Did you
have any problems/issues with the chain counter?

We found the best deal at Defender in CT. They
shipped to ST Thomas for us...

We'll post our replacement. Everyone may want to
check that there is no play in the windlass shaft with
the chain off.

Richard and Joan on Challenge in the BVI
--- rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@gmail.com> wrote:

I know this is an old post, but I use a thin white
plastic "T-Shirt"
bag, as is used in grocery and other shopping. You
can work it in
around the chain and it forms a very tight seal. It
is also out of
site. You can thread it through a chain link to make
sure it doesn't
blow away if you forget to remove it, but we never
have.

Bob,
93 Santorin Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick
MEJEAN" <maramu@...>
wrote:

Hi Eric
If you problem is to prevent the sea water to come
in I believe
that the
small piece of rubber attached to the windlass is
more than enough
as the
amount of water that may come inside is rather
little. My personal
view is
that any other system a bit more sophisticated
will not last long
as sooner
or later you will forget to remove it one day. The
good thing with
the
rubber plate, is that even though you forget to
remove it, it will
not be
damaged, at most torn a bit.
Regards
Erick






----Original Message Follows----
From: kimberlite1212 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 03:27:05 -0000

Has anyone come up with a good way to plug the
windlass hawspipe
during a passage?
fair winds,
eric




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Checking the turn buckels

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

To all Amel users:::
We just finished a few months in the Carib and saliling several thousand miles on SM 209. When I went long to check the rig I found that the turn buckels have worn from being up against the safety cable.. Please check your boats and be sure you are not cutting into the turn buckles.. Ring the rig...Remember Amels are tight rigs that should not go slack to leeward when going to windward.

Richard and Joan on SM 209 Challenge in St Thomas Crown Bay

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@melita.net.mt> wrote:
I had a main made for my last ketch by a Kiwi sailmaker called Mike
Relling. He used vertical battens about four or five feet long. They
were fibre glass rod although they could well have been made out of
normal wide batten material. He was fairly conservative in the extra
roach that he built in but even so it increased the sail area by seven
percent and was much better looking as it had a positive roach and it
worked very well without allowing the roach to fall away.
I do not know why this is not done as a norm. I suspect that people see
that the furled main nearly fills the mast at boom level and cannot
workout that a tall triangle leaves heaps of room further up the mast !!

Regards, Anne and John, SM319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor windlass

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

John, thanks for the heads up on windlass. We are still awaiting it's arrival here in St. Thomas. Seems US Customs has it and loves it... Maybe we'll be getting it Tuesday...

We will take your advice and use a different system to lower and raise the hook. I think we may go with a hand held unit that we can store in a water tight box in port forward locker.

We'll post the results..
Richard and Joan on SM 209 in St Thomas Crown Bay

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@melita.net.mt> wrote:
Hello again Richard,
I can understand that it seemed impossible to remove the allen bolts
holding the side plate on the main casing. Fortunately my winch
problem was in Croatia where they have not yet progressed to the
throw away society standards. The engineer spent almost a whole day
either working on the winch or going back to his shop to get more
gear. He finally managed to get all the bolts out by working on each
one carefully with
what looked to me like an oxyacetylene blow torch and a very long
allen key. After he had finished I took each one out and replaced it
using anti seize ointment.This reminds me that I resolved to do the
same thing annually.
To deal with the new winch I believe that the up and down buttons on
the top of the casing are an Amel or Pochon le Cochon abortion and
much increase the risk of sea water penetration. Those on my winch
were badly fitted for two reasons, the top of the casing is rounded
and thus unsuited to fitting the switches without grinding off the
rounding and secondly the holes drilled in the casing were too big
and thus it was doubly difficult to get a good fixing. As I could not
get a replacement of the right type I fitted a foot switch in the
deck on the port side so that Anne can use her foot to lift the
anchor whilst she is leaning over the pulpit in relative comfort to
watch the anchor coming up. If I was fitting a new winch I would use
two deck switches instead of recreating the abortion.
When the casing is removed counter sensor can be removed by pushing
it forward with a small screwdriver through the aft hole and
disconnecting the joint in the wiring to get it out.Removing the
sensor will expose the heads of the two bolts which hold its mount on
the side of the casing so you can get it off. I suppose that the
mount can then be used as a guide for drilling holes in the new
casing.
If I understand the sensor details which Gary has posted in Files the
sensor is pretty sensitive and may be up to one or two centimetres
away from the knob on the winch drum However I guess you would be
happier with about a quarter of an inch or so.

Good luck, Anne and John, SM 319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What oil is needed for the prop shaft bearing?

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Pat, if you check in the manual you will find that it takes 2 gallons of 10-40w motor oil.
The bow thruster take gear lube. (out board motor lower unit lube is 90 W.) One tube of lube will do the trick.
Good luck let us know how you are doing..

Richard Piller and Joan in St Thomas SM 209

sailw32 <sailw32@aol.com> wrote:
I just changed my prop shaft bearing for the first time. What type and
weight of oil do I need? I have not been able to find any reference to
this on this website.
Thanks,
Pat
Shenanigans SM123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: cutless bearing......size no longer in production????

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Dave, when we did the one on our old Maramu we had a bearing truned and a new shaft made. Your shaft is most likely got some wear on it around the cutless bearing area anyway. It is also a good chance to change the alternator belt and put on a spare.
Richard Piller M-135

Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com> wrote:
Today we checked to see if a 1 3/8" bearing would fit over the 35mm
shaft. Turns out it does. Morse makes a 1 3/8x 1 7/8x 5 1/2 in
bearing. The outside diameter is 47.625mm. Since our opening is about
45mm we will have to shave 1.312 mm or roughly .052"

We'll know shortly.

Does anyone with an older Maramu know if the 35mm shaft was standard.
Our Maramu was repowered by a previous owner so I have no idea if it
is the same size.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "maramu48" <maramu48@...> wrote:

Dave,
When you find a cutlass bearing vendor, would you kindly post their
name, address, telephone number and cost?
Thanks, Don Henderson
s/v MINERVA


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin"
<dave_benjamin@> wrote:

Hi all,

I thought we were all set since our boat had a brand new cutless
bearing in the spares inventory. Unfortunately this bearing is too
small to work. The outer diameter of the bearing needs to be just shy
of 45mm. It looks like someone took a 35x47x140 bearing and machined
it to fit. Unfortunately they went too small. The existing bearing
which was shot after a short time was quite loose. It came out by
hand. Nothing was holding it place other than the set screws and screw
for the bonding strap. The 35x47x140 bearings are no longer made. It
is costing us a bloody fortune to be hauled out as we are paying both
yard laydays and a short term rental on shore.

If anyone knows where I can find a 35x47x140mm shaft bearing I'd
appreciate the help. If anyone has a spare we would be happy to wire
you enough money to have a replacement manufactured. We are told it
will take a week or two for Morse or Duramax to fabricate a bearing
for us.

I plan to call Amel in the morning to see if they have any bearings
they can FedEx to us. Our Maramu has been repowered so I don't know if
the 35mm shaft is the same size as original or not.

Cheers,
Dave and Jean
S/Y Exit Strategy
On the hard - Alameda, CA


bowthruster

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Sorry to have posted two blank messages. Not sure why. Hope this comes through. Just wanted to say thanks to those who had answered my queries. Should be simple to fix. Will report again. Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Trinidad
_________________________________________________________________

http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/msnnkmgl0010000007ukm/direct/01/


Re: {Disarmed} RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 


1980 Sharki #30 available

north
 

Hello All,
I have been a very quiet member of this group now for several years . I am posting now to let everyone know that my Sharki is up for sale in the San Francisco Bay of California, USA.
She needs someone who can invest in her refit as I am unable. As she sits, I sailed her from Florida to California exploring every country in Central America for 2 seasons, so she is by no means unfit, simply due for some TLC.

Yacht World Add: http://tinyurl.com/4cmm93

-North Pitney
510 703 8069
northp@mac.com
SV BetaLab
Amel Sharki #30
663676


Re: on the hard for a week....rudder won't move now.....any ideas????

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Dave:

What model and year of boat do you have?
You just need to break this problem into logical steps and follow a step wise
diagnostic course.
My suggestion:
Dissconnect the push pull cables and any auto pilot actuators
at the rudder control arms and see if the the rudder moves.
1. If the rudder still doesn't move search for rudder causes, such as bent rudder
stock, seized rudder bearing, something jamming the rudder to the skeg, etc.
2. If the rudder moves with the cables and actuator disconnected then trouble
shoot the helm and push pull cables for such items as jammed or unraveling
push pull cables, jammed jack screw at the helm.

Good Luck, Gary

. Als--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...>
wrote:


So we just tired to move the rudder and it appears firmly jammed. I
tried both directions and the resistance seemed equal. Any ideas?


Re: {Disarmed} RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hello Ian,
I don't know what you said in these messages but it has been censored !

Try again, John SM 319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sonic Speed

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] on the hard for a week....rudder won't move now.....any ideas????

WILLIAM KLEIN <sidecar1@...>
 

Have you checked in the space between the rudder and skeg for something wedged in between. I usually have a lot of barnacle growth in this area n my Maramu.

----- Original Message -----
From: Dave_Benjamin
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:59 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] on the hard for a week....rudder won't move now.....any ideas????


So we just tired to move the rudder and it appears firmly jammed. I
tried both directions and the resistance seemed equal. Any ideas?


on the hard for a week....rudder won't move now.....any ideas????

Dave_Benjamin
 

So we just tired to move the rudder and it appears firmly jammed. I
tried both directions and the resistance seemed equal. Any ideas?


Anchor windlass

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

Hello again Richard,
I can understand that it seemed impossible to remove the allen bolts
holding the side plate on the main casing. Fortunately my winch
problem was in Croatia where they have not yet progressed to the
throw away society standards. The engineer spent almost a whole day
either working on the winch or going back to his shop to get more
gear. He finally managed to get all the bolts out by working on each
one carefully with
what looked to me like an oxyacetylene blow torch and a very long
allen key. After he had finished I took each one out and replaced it
using anti seize ointment.This reminds me that I resolved to do the
same thing annually.
To deal with the new winch I believe that the up and down buttons on
the top of the casing are an Amel or Pochon le Cochon abortion and
much increase the risk of sea water penetration. Those on my winch
were badly fitted for two reasons, the top of the casing is rounded
and thus unsuited to fitting the switches without grinding off the
rounding and secondly the holes drilled in the casing were too big
and thus it was doubly difficult to get a good fixing. As I could not
get a replacement of the right type I fitted a foot switch in the
deck on the port side so that Anne can use her foot to lift the
anchor whilst she is leaning over the pulpit in relative comfort to
watch the anchor coming up. If I was fitting a new winch I would use
two deck switches instead of recreating the abortion.
When the casing is removed counter sensor can be removed by pushing
it forward with a small screwdriver through the aft hole and
disconnecting the joint in the wiring to get it out.Removing the
sensor will expose the heads of the two bolts which hold its mount on
the side of the casing so you can get it off. I suppose that the
mount can then be used as a guide for drilling holes in the new
casing.
If I understand the sensor details which Gary has posted in Files the
sensor is pretty sensitive and may be up to one or two centimetres
away from the knob on the winch drum However I guess you would be
happier with about a quarter of an inch or so.

Good luck, Anne and John, SM 319