Date   

Re: [Amel] Fresh Water Loss

amelforme
 

Kent, I am going to beg you to get someone with Amel ownership
experience to get you off to a fair start. Your boat has been sitting
for a long time, I am sure there are deferred maintenance issues, and
you don’t need a cluster of challenges all at once with systems you
don’t have complete familiarity with in the middle of the oil platform
infested Gulf at night in a squall …I am heaping it on pretty heavy
but I can see the formation of a black cloud over your maiden voyage
that could cure you of cruising, or worse. If you can’t get help from
an Amel owner, think seriously of contacting Ray Eaton. Ray is our
Amel trained and recommended technical/repair guy and Ray does a lot
on the instruction on the three day course I give to all Amel clients
that are new to the boats they buy from us. Fir the record, I do not
make any $$$ from Ray’s activities, and he makes none from mine. We
are good friends and I trust him 100% to be fair and square in all his
dealings with Amel folks. He isn’t cheap but he is very good which is
the way things usually are if one is careful. You can reach Ray on 954
593 1011 here in Fort Lauderdale.

To address your immediate concerns, the bilge areas throughout the
entire interior accommodations area should always be absolutely bone
dry. Any water in these areas is cause for concern and immediate
rectification. The only “bilge” that should contain water is the
actual bilge sump which is in the engine room just in front of the
Amel Drive system. That is the only place water should accumulate. It
is served by an electrical pump that has a “bobber” type switch in a
grey PVC tube as well as a manual pump that is located, on your year
SM53, in/on the helm chair.

I would suggest you turn off the pressure pump for the water system at
the 24 volt panel. Wait and see if you still lose fresh water. If you
do, call a priest to have the boat exorcised… or call me and I’ll give
you some bad news.

I trust that you are measuring the loss of water at the “bobber” float
at the companionway?

Any modifications to the water system like an additional outside
shower/water spigot?

Pretty hard to troubleshoot the problem without having a good,
complete look at your boat.

Get someone that knows Amel boats stone cold to give you a gentle
point in the right direction. If you must pay for it, it will be the
best money you will spend and I am sure of that.

Be careful and good luck.



All the best,

Joel F. Potter



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

401 East Las Olas Boulevard, #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Fax: (954) 462-3923




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Fresh Water Loss

karkauai
 

Hi, Gang,
I'm on board at the dock finally. Trying to get things ready for the sail to the Bahamas. It's been a challenge but am getting to where I understand most of the systems now. My problem now is that I'm losing fresh water from the tank at an alarming rate of 400 liters a day. There don't seem to be any leaks at the faucets or showers and there's no water going into the bilge. I'm at a loss. Is there anywhere this water could be accumulating that doesn't go to the bilge?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Kent
"Kristy"
SM2 #243


Re: [Amel] Rubber companionway seal

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

The rubber seal that Amel uses is a Renault seal strip it is nothing very special.
Take out the "blocks on the companionway sliding door block it in place remove the screws that hold the striping in place and install the new one.
Richard On SM 209 in Corsica

--- On Fri, 3/6/09, sailw32@aol.com <sailw32@aol.com> wrote:

From: sailw32@aol.com <sailw32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Rubber companionway seal
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, March 6, 2009, 9:00 AM












John, I replaced mine a few months ago with a spare the previous owner had

bought from Amel. The teak threshold that the weather strip is attached to can

be unscrewed from the teak beneath it. Then its a simple matter of installing

the new strip.With shipping that strip from Amel is probably pricey, for

what it is. I am sure one could find alternate weather striping at a hardware

store. Pat SM #123





In a message dated 3/6/2009 8:45:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,

no_reply@yahoogroup s.com writes:



The rubber seal at the foot of the companionway seal is starting to break

down.



Does anybody know what is involved in replacing it. I do not want to start

the replacement job only to find that the whole sliding door has to be removed

in order to complete the job!



Thanks

John SM#391



************ **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy

steps!

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%3D62%26bcd% 3Dfebemailfooter NO62)



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Rubber companionway seal

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Great - thanks for your quick response.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, sailw32@... wrote:

John, I replaced mine a few months ago with a spare the previous owner had
bought from Amel. The teak threshold that the weather strip is attached to can
be unscrewed from the teak beneath it. Then its a simple matter of installing
the new strip.With shipping that strip from Amel is probably pricey, for
what it is. I am sure one could find alternate weather striping at a hardware
store. Pat SM #123


In a message dated 3/6/2009 8:45:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
no_reply@yahoogroups.com writes:




The rubber seal at the foot of the companionway seal is starting to break
down.

Does anybody know what is involved in replacing it. I do not want to start
the replacement job only to find that the whole sliding door has to be removed
in order to complete the job!

Thanks
John SM#391





**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219957551x1201325337/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID
%3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Rubber companionway seal

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

The rubber seal at the foot of the companionway seal is starting to break down.

Does anybody know what is involved in replacing it. I do not want to start the replacement job only to find that the whole sliding door has to be removed in order to complete the job!

Thanks
John SM#391


Re: [Amel] Rubber companionway seal

Patrick McAneny
 

John, I replaced mine a few months ago with a spare the previous owner had
bought from Amel. The teak threshold that the weather strip is attached to can
be unscrewed from the teak beneath it. Then its a simple matter of installing
the new strip.With shipping that strip from Amel is probably pricey, for
what it is. I am sure one could find alternate weather striping at a hardware
store. Pat SM #123

In a message dated 3/6/2009 8:45:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
no_reply@yahoogroups.com writes:




The rubber seal at the foot of the companionway seal is starting to break
down.

Does anybody know what is involved in replacing it. I do not want to start
the replacement job only to find that the whole sliding door has to be removed
in order to complete the job!

Thanks
John SM#391





**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219957551x1201325337/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID
%3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary,

I know that some spray/water can get past the seal and the foam rings in
heavy seas with the bow thruster retracted. Also, when operating the
bow thruster I have seen the inside foam ring get wet. I assume that
lowering the bow thruster against a "wet sponge" is the major cause of
this problem. It had been almost three years (rather than 2) since I
removed and serviced the bow thruster. I do not think I will allow it
to go that long again.

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ - soon to be continuing for a full circle back to the
Caribbean


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Bill:

I notice from your photo that there is significant corrosion on the
bottom of
the motor and the spline shaft (similar to that found on mine, see the
photo
I posted).

Any thoughts about why there is so much corrosion in this area? There
wouldn't
seem to be any sea water exposure here, or am I wrong?

Gary s/v Liahona Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" yahoogroups@ wrote:

All,

I just added photos of the Bow Thruster "stuck" problem to the
Photos
section titled "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE"

You should be able to see them by following this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pi\;
c/list

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ - soon to be continuing for a full circle back to the
Caribbean


Sharki interior refitting

claudio.2008 <claudio.2008@...>
 

I would like to refit my Sharki interiors, coatings and textiles.
Is there anyone who can give me some tips and guidelines (how and
where) ? The boat is in Italy.
Good winds to all!


Re: [Amel] Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck

Malcolm Phillips <MPhillips@...>
 

Gary,



Cost of SKF bearings are 10 dollars each, not 25.



Malcolm



Bon Jovi of Clyde



S/M # 464



________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: 03 March 2009 05:13
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck



Bill:

I notice from your photo that there is significant corrosion on the
bottom of
the motor and the spline shaft (similar to that found on mine, see the
photo
I posted).

Any thoughts about why there is so much corrosion in this area? There
wouldn't
seem to be any sea water exposure here, or am I wrong?

Gary s/v Liahona Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:

All,

I just added photos of the Bow Thruster "stuck" problem to the Photos
section titled "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE"

You should be able to see them by following this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pi
c/list
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/p
ic/list>

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ - soon to be continuing for a full circle back to the
Caribbean


Re: [Amel] Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck

Malcolm Phillips <MPhillips@...>
 

Hi Gary,



Having recently overhauled my bowthruster following damage to the
lip seal from a nylon fishing line, my conclusion was that the
oil escaped through the damaged seal and sea water entered the
gearbox. If the boat is moving at any speed with the
bowthruster down, I believe that sea water could be forced up
the inside of the grp tube thus corroding the splined connection
to the motor.



For your information, the 3 ball races are ;- ( 2 off SKF
6006-2RS/ HRA and 1 off SKF 6006/HRA ) , the 2 on the
horizontal propshaft are sealed for life and the top one on
the vertical drive shaft is open to allow the oil through
when filling the gearbox. They cost around 25 Dollars each.



Malcolm.

BON JOVI SM # 464



________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: 03 March 2009 05:13
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck



Bill:

I notice from your photo that there is significant corrosion on the
bottom of
the motor and the spline shaft (similar to that found on mine, see the
photo
I posted).

Any thoughts about why there is so much corrosion in this area? There
wouldn't
seem to be any sea water exposure here, or am I wrong?

Gary s/v Liahona Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:

All,

I just added photos of the Bow Thruster "stuck" problem to the Photos
section titled "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE"

You should be able to see them by following this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pi
c/list
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/p
ic/list>

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ - soon to be continuing for a full circle back to the
Caribbean


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Bill:

I notice from your photo that there is significant corrosion on the bottom of
the motor and the spline shaft (similar to that found on mine, see the photo
I posted).

Any thoughts about why there is so much corrosion in this area? There wouldn't
seem to be any sea water exposure here, or am I wrong?

Gary s/v Liahona Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

All,

I just added photos of the Bow Thruster "stuck" problem to the Photos
section titled "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE"

You should be able to see them by following this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/list

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ - soon to be continuing for a full circle back to the
Caribbean


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

All,

I just added photos of the Bow Thruster "stuck" problem to the Photos
section titled "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE"

You should be able to see them by following this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/list

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ - soon to be continuing for a full circle back to the
Caribbean

What did work was the "drop thing" that Amel suggested. I disconnected
the end points of both the up & the down cables. I went outside to the
bow thruster and lifted it and pulled it down hard about 10 times when
it broke free. I should state that this was tried after about 2 hours
of everything else tried or suggested in this thread and possibly my
success was the sum of everything.

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ - soon to be continuing for a full circle back to the
Caribbean


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

David, Ed and All,

I had the same problem with the bow thruster tube/shaft stuck to the
motor.

David said, "Amel told me to disconnect the motor from the cables and
drop it. Good Luck ! I did this many times with no success."

While on the hard, I tried everything that Ed et al tried with
penetrating solution. I also placed a "C" clamp around the thruster
shaft just before the bow thruster enclosure gets larger. Then with
some wooden blocks between the "C" clamp and the hull, I used the
lifting motor to attempt separate the tube from the motor while beating
with a hammer where the shaft joins the bottom of the motor. This did
not seem to work.

What did work was the "drop thing" that Amel suggested. I disconnected
the end points of both the up & the down cables. I went outside to the
bow thruster and lifted it and pulled it down hard about 10 times when
it broke free. I should state that this was tried after about 2 hours
of everything else tried or suggested in this thread and possibly my
success was the sum of everything.

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ - soon to be continuing for a full circle back to the
Caribbean



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, David Miller <windmillerii@...>
wrote:

I had SM # 325 and had the exact same problem !
I now have an Amel 54 Windmiller II.
I will be sailing in the Med Red Ralley departing 1st May from
Finike.
Now to your BIG Problem
Before I did what you may have to do. Amel told me to disconnect the
motor from the cables and drop it. Good Luck ! I did this many times
with no success.
This is Probably what you should do:
You will have to separate the plastic shaft tube from the motor and
metal shaft. This you will acheive by going into the gear box behind the
propellor. You will have to take apart all the gear mechanizem &
propellor.
Unscrew the metal shaft from the gear mechanizem. This will separate
the motor and metal shaft from the plastic shaft tube.
Once you have this separation you can take the electric motor and
metal shaft up and out the forward hatch.
Take to a workshop and disasseble motor to bear minimum.
With two burners, heat up the female part of the connection between
shaft and motor, after much hammering it will come loose. While doing
this I put the coil in bucket of water so that coils of motor want get
damaged from the heat and the shaft was held in a vise.
This is going to be a good oppertunity to change all the bearings
and seals, inspect gear mechanisem.
After I found water in the bottom of the motor casing, I drilled
four holes in the bottom of the motor casing to allow water to exit. (I
thought it was good idea but not sure)

If you have any questions, I'm in Israel +972 544 700313

Good Luck
David Miller

Ed Steele edmundsteele@... wrote:
I have just returned to SV DoodleBug SM #331 which is
currently "on the
hard" at Marmaris, Turkey. I attempted to perform a routine 24 month
service
on the bow-thruster in order to replace the seals and oil. I removed
the
band that prevents the retaining screws from being removed and then
removed
all four of the 6mm Allen headed retaining bolts. The bow thruster leg
will
not drop from the drive motor. By looking through the retaining bolt
holes,
I can see that the shaft body has dropped several mm. from the motor
housing
and is now stuck. I have sprayed WD40 oil through the bolt holes but I
believe that the "foot" drive shaft is stuck to the motor drive shaft
-
probably by corrosion. I have tried lowering the unit and running the
propeller in both directions and have also tried placing a block of
wood
inside the propeller housing and then raising the unit. So far nothing
has
worked.

My questions are:
1) Is there anything I have forgotten to unbolt that is holding the
bowthruster foot to the motor?
2) If not, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can separate
these
units so that I can complete the service?

Ed Steele

edmundsteele@...
doodlebug@...






---------------------------------
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of
Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.



Re: [Amel] CLIMA Heating/cooling

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi, according to Clima when using the "heat" cycle run the fan setting on high or the lack of air moving over the coils will burn them out..
Good luck.
Richard and Joan on Challenge in Corsica SM 209

--- On Sat, 2/28/09, MERTZ <jlmertz@free.fr> wrote:

From: MERTZ <jlmertz@free.fr>
Subject: [Amel] CLIMA Heating/cooling
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, February 28, 2009, 6:11 AM












I just make somme preparation on CottonBay and I tested the value of

the condensators in the CLIMA unit (those wo regulate the fan speed).



<B> !! ALL capacitors are out of specification !!</B>



Donot forget to verifey this if the spead of the fan is to low the

theating termostat works more and he rapeadly faille ....































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


CLIMA Heating/cooling

MERTZ <jlmertz@...>
 

I just make somme preparation on CottonBay and I tested the value of
the condensators in the CLIMA unit (those wo regulate the fan speed).

<B> !! ALL capacitors are out of specification !!</B>

Donot forget to verifey this if the spead of the fan is to low the
theating termostat works more and he rapeadly faille ....


VOLVO MD22 WATER PUMP CHANGE

perinbernard <perin-bernard@...>
 

Hello,
On my VOLVO MD22 I have a leak on the water pump (probably the seal on
the shaft).
To change the water pump it is a big job : it needs to remove the touth
belt, the 2 gear pulley and the timing gear casing.
I have already bought the special tools to do that.
If somebody did this job before thanks for advises.
Regards
Bernard PERIN
MARY BIRD VII
SM#100


Re: Servicing the Onan MDKVA Heat Exchanger

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Great post Bill,

Gary SM 2000 Hull # 335


Servicing the Onan MDKVA Heat Exchanger

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Hi,

FYI, I uploaded my service log on the Onan MDKVA Heat Exchanger to the
Photos section of this site.

It is titled "Servicing the Onan MDKVA Heat Exchanger"

I think this link will take you directly to it:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pi\;
c/list

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
Auckland, NZ for the Pacific Cyclone Season, then on our way around


Amel Euros 39 Repairs

matt <russisland@...>
 

Hi All:)
Please check my new photos in album 'SV.Darien'-this is example of the
bad repairs from the past...Hull area shows lots of osmosis 'patched'
with all sorts of materials eg. epoxy, polyester, vinylester..and the
car bog??!
The plan is to let the hull dry for aprox. 3 months until the moisture
level reach 2-3%.
Then fill up the bad areas and previously repaired spots with
cabosil/vinylester putty. After sending smooth will go 2 layers of
450g. biaxial cloth with vinyl ester following 2 layers of 6oz. cloth
with epoxy. This 2 last layers will go over/under the steel keel shoe which should give peace of mind about keel bolts condition(just can't
locate them).
All underwater area will be then smooth with microballoons/epoxy.
This should make this hull strong and problem free.
Can anyone add any comments or suggestion to this plan?
Best Regards to All.
Fair Winds
Magic
S.V.Darien
Amel Euros #88


Color of Boot Stripe?

Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
 

I want to re-paint the boot stripe on my Sharki #123 and am wondering
whether anyone might know a source for the "original" orange paint? TIA.



Roy Duddy

Duddy Law Offices, PLLC

175 Route 101

Bedford, NH 03110



603-472-8500

603-472-7333 Fax