Date   

SM#266 For Sale

Ag Av8ter
 

It is with a sad heart that we offer WORLD CITIZEN seriously for
sale. Health and family issues have forced a halt to our cruising.
We would like to sell WORLD CITIZEN to a person(s) who will love her
and treat her as we have.
WORLD CITIZEN, Amel Super Maramu 2000 Millennium. Hull number 266
built late 1999. She has all the bells and whistles you would expect
and a few added extras. Huge spare parts inventory, entire tool crib
to go with the sale (including many Amel and engine "special tools").
She is located in Wilmington, NC at the present time, and can be
easily shown. If you are from Europe, we can make a travel
arrangement so you can see her at little cost to you. Delivery to
Europe is a possibility.
I don't want to use this site in an inappropriate manner, so if you
have an interest email me and I will send you all the data you want.
Email; agav8ter@yahoo.com (Please put Amel for sale on the subject
line, so your message does not get deleted.)
Thank you,
Tony Gray
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266


dessalator

Giovanni TESTA
 

hi to all,
I have a Dissalator HR 4 and I have to leave my SM2K for 5
monthes ,during the hurrican season, on the hard in Venezuela, Puerto
La Cruz. Wich the best treatment I can do to preserve its membranes ?
what I haven't to do ? My Dissalator has 100 hrs only.
Please any suggestions will be particularly appreciated.
Thanks to all,
Giovanni TESTA
s/v "EUTIKIA" SM2K n 428


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bad Salt Water Manifold

eric freedman
 

Patrick,

The manifold does have just straight fittings no hose barbs. It is easy to
remove. You must also remove the first pre filter for the 220-volt
watermaker to access the mounting screws.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of patrick.naegels
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 4:06 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bad Salt Water Manifold



If I remember well, price must be around 350 euros. But manifold
comes with tap and neck, ready to install.

Olivier Beauté said there is no difficulties to disconnect existing
hoses, because there are no notches on pipes.

We'll see ...

Patrick

°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Patrick,

I have a feeling that the bonding strap that is connected to the
keel bolt
in the bilge is rotten and no longer connected.

I will check it this week. I have already made plans to replace
the strap
as another member has already done. I also plan to connect the
bonding wire
on the A/C pump to the manifold directly.

I was just wondering -what was the cost of the manifold from Amel?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
patrick.naegels
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 2:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bad Salt Water Manifold



Hi Eric,

we have the same, but our salt-water manifold is still working. We
just see that black paint is rotted with small white points, and
water drops some time at main connection.

It's like that for 3 years, I really wonder why. As you I tough to
electrolysis effect, but this metal part is connected to earth wire.

So, for 3 years, we have on board a new manifold bought by Amel,
just
in case ...

But I decide to replace this part before our new blue water
crossing.

Patrick - Caramel - SM2000 # 329

°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°
--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "eric freedman"
<kimberlite@> wrote:

Has anyone had problems with the salt-water manifold rotting out?
This is the manifold that connects to the electric head pumps,
the
watermaker, the anchor wash, and the A/c pump via the sea
strainer.

Last week I noticed a small drip from the manifold. I touched it
and
my finger went right through the A/C tap on the manifold. When I
removed the manifold, the A/C tap looked like Swiss cheese. I had
to
saw off the tap and put a hose and clamps over it to temporarily
use
the manifold. When I tried to put the manifold back, it snapped
off.
It appears that the factory soldered a BRASS pipe nipple to the
end
of
the copper manifold.
This caused electrolysis and the manifold to fail at the junction
where it screws into the ball valve. I am having a new manifold
made
out of stainless in St Martin. Has anyone else seen such a
problem?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Bad Salt Water Manifold

patrick.naegels <patrick.naegels@...>
 

If I remember well, price must be around 350 euros. But manifold
comes with tap and neck, ready to install.

Olivier Beauté said there is no difficulties to disconnect existing
hoses, because there are no notches on pipes.

We'll see ...

Patrick


°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Patrick,

I have a feeling that the bonding strap that is connected to the
keel bolt
in the bilge is rotten and no longer connected.

I will check it this week. I have already made plans to replace
the strap
as another member has already done. I also plan to connect the
bonding wire
on the A/C pump to the manifold directly.

I was just wondering -what was the cost of the manifold from Amel?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
patrick.naegels
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 2:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bad Salt Water Manifold



Hi Eric,

we have the same, but our salt-water manifold is still working. We
just see that black paint is rotted with small white points, and
water drops some time at main connection.

It's like that for 3 years, I really wonder why. As you I tough to
electrolysis effect, but this metal part is connected to earth wire.

So, for 3 years, we have on board a new manifold bought by Amel,
just
in case ...

But I decide to replace this part before our new blue water
crossing.

Patrick - Caramel - SM2000 # 329

°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°
--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "eric freedman"
<kimberlite@> wrote:

Has anyone had problems with the salt-water manifold rotting out?
This is the manifold that connects to the electric head pumps,
the
watermaker, the anchor wash, and the A/c pump via the sea
strainer.

Last week I noticed a small drip from the manifold. I touched it
and
my finger went right through the A/C tap on the manifold. When I
removed the manifold, the A/C tap looked like Swiss cheese. I had
to
saw off the tap and put a hose and clamps over it to temporarily
use
the manifold. When I tried to put the manifold back, it snapped
off.
It appears that the factory soldered a BRASS pipe nipple to the
end
of
the copper manifold.
This caused electrolysis and the manifold to fail at the junction
where it screws into the ball valve. I am having a new manifold
made
out of stainless in St Martin. Has anyone else seen such a
problem?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bad Salt Water Manifold

eric freedman
 

Hi Patrick,

I have a feeling that the bonding strap that is connected to the keel bolt
in the bilge is rotten and no longer connected.

I will check it this week. I have already made plans to replace the strap
as another member has already done. I also plan to connect the bonding wire
on the A/C pump to the manifold directly.

I was just wondering -what was the cost of the manifold from Amel?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of patrick.naegels
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 2:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bad Salt Water Manifold



Hi Eric,

we have the same, but our salt-water manifold is still working. We
just see that black paint is rotted with small white points, and
water drops some time at main connection.

It's like that for 3 years, I really wonder why. As you I tough to
electrolysis effect, but this metal part is connected to earth wire.

So, for 3 years, we have on board a new manifold bought by Amel, just
in case ...

But I decide to replace this part before our new blue water crossing.

Patrick - Caramel - SM2000 # 329

°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°
--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "eric freedman"
<kimberlite@...> wrote:

Has anyone had problems with the salt-water manifold rotting out?
This is the manifold that connects to the electric head pumps, the
watermaker, the anchor wash, and the A/c pump via the sea strainer.

Last week I noticed a small drip from the manifold. I touched it
and
my finger went right through the A/C tap on the manifold. When I
removed the manifold, the A/C tap looked like Swiss cheese. I had
to
saw off the tap and put a hose and clamps over it to temporarily
use
the manifold. When I tried to put the manifold back, it snapped
off.
It appears that the factory soldered a BRASS pipe nipple to the end
of
the copper manifold.
This caused electrolysis and the manifold to fail at the junction
where it screws into the ball valve. I am having a new manifold
made
out of stainless in St Martin. Has anyone else seen such a problem?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bad Salt Water Manifold

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hi,

To weld stainless steel you need to use an 'Argon' welder, it welds
in an atmosphere of argon. This gas is blowed by a pipe to the
welding area while it is being welded.

I suppose that a professional should have the skills and the tools to
do it.

Kind regards
Jose-Luis
XALOL (Euros)


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@...>
wrote:


Erick, Make sure the welder iknows how to weld stainless steel for
underwater use. I had one welded up, it looked beautiful. Lasted two
months. I took it to a boatyard the next time and they re-welded it.
It seems you have to blow air into the pipe at the same time as you
weld. This one has been on for two years. John "Moondog" SM248


To: amelyachtowners@...: kimberlite@...: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 04:26:33
+0000Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bad Salt Water Manifold




Has anyone had problems with the salt-water manifold rotting out?
This is the manifold that connects to the electric head pumps, the
watermaker, the anchor wash, and the A/c pump via the sea
strainer.Last week I noticed a small drip from the manifold. I
touched it and my finger went right through the A/C tap on the
manifold. When I removed the manifold, the A/C tap looked like Swiss
cheese. I had to saw off the tap and put a hose and clamps over it to
temporarily use the manifold. When I tried to put the manifold back,
it snapped off. It appears that the factory soldered a BRASS pipe
nipple to the end of the copper manifold. This caused electrolysis
and the manifold to fail at the junction where it screws into the
ball valve. I am having a new manifold made out of stainless in St
Martin. Has anyone else seen such a problem?Fair Winds,EricAmel Super
Maramu #376 Kimberlite






_________________________________________________________________
Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live
Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?
ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_messenger_video_042008



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bad Salt Water Manifold

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Erick, Make sure the welder iknows how to weld stainless steel for underwater use. I had one welded up, it looked beautiful. Lasted two months. I took it to a boatyard the next time and they re-welded it. It seems you have to blow air into the pipe at the same time as you weld. This one has been on for two years. John "Moondog" SM248


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.comFrom: kimberlite@optonline.netDate: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 04:26:33 +0000Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bad Salt Water Manifold




Has anyone had problems with the salt-water manifold rotting out?This is the manifold that connects to the electric head pumps, the watermaker, the anchor wash, and the A/c pump via the sea strainer.Last week I noticed a small drip from the manifold. I touched it and my finger went right through the A/C tap on the manifold. When I removed the manifold, the A/C tap looked like Swiss cheese. I had to saw off the tap and put a hose and clamps over it to temporarily use the manifold. When I tried to put the manifold back, it snapped off. It appears that the factory soldered a BRASS pipe nipple to the end of the copper manifold. This caused electrolysis and the manifold to fail at the junction where it screws into the ball valve. I am having a new manifold made out of stainless in St Martin. Has anyone else seen such a problem?Fair Winds,EricAmel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite






_________________________________________________________________
Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_messenger_video_042008


Re: Bad Salt Water Manifold

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

We had to remove our Salt Water Manifold Super Maramu in October to
clean the nasty Cartagena mussels that were packed into the
mainforld...we did not notice any electrolysis or corrosion. I just
cleaned and repainted it.

I placed a photo in a new album named "Salt Water Manifold Super
Maramu." If you have a chance to give me all of the dimensions I will
update the photo...be sure to include the size of the nipple (both
ends) and the o/s diameter of each output tube.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "eric freedman"
<kimberlite@...> wrote:

Has anyone had problems with the salt-water manifold rotting out?
This is the manifold that connects to the electric head pumps, the
watermaker, the anchor wash, and the A/c pump via the sea strainer.

Last week I noticed a small drip from the manifold. I touched it and
my finger went right through the A/C tap on the manifold. When I
removed the manifold, the A/C tap looked like Swiss cheese. I had to
saw off the tap and put a hose and clamps over it to temporarily use
the manifold. When I tried to put the manifold back, it snapped off.
It appears that the factory soldered a BRASS pipe nipple to the end of
the copper manifold.
This caused electrolysis and the manifold to fail at the junction
where it screws into the ball valve. I am having a new manifold made
out of stainless in St Martin. Has anyone else seen such a problem?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: Bad Salt Water Manifold

patrick.naegels <patrick.naegels@...>
 

Hi Eric,

we have the same, but our salt-water manifold is still working. We
just see that black paint is rotted with small white points, and
water drops some time at main connection.

It's like that for 3 years, I really wonder why. As you I tough to
electrolysis effect, but this metal part is connected to earth wire.

So, for 3 years, we have on board a new manifold bought by Amel, just
in case ...

But I decide to replace this part before our new blue water crossing.

Patrick - Caramel - SM2000 # 329


°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "eric freedman"
<kimberlite@...> wrote:

Has anyone had problems with the salt-water manifold rotting out?
This is the manifold that connects to the electric head pumps, the
watermaker, the anchor wash, and the A/c pump via the sea strainer.

Last week I noticed a small drip from the manifold. I touched it
and
my finger went right through the A/C tap on the manifold. When I
removed the manifold, the A/C tap looked like Swiss cheese. I had
to
saw off the tap and put a hose and clamps over it to temporarily
use
the manifold. When I tried to put the manifold back, it snapped
off.
It appears that the factory soldered a BRASS pipe nipple to the end
of
the copper manifold.
This caused electrolysis and the manifold to fail at the junction
where it screws into the ball valve. I am having a new manifold
made
out of stainless in St Martin. Has anyone else seen such a problem?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck

edmund_steele
 

I did follow David's directions for disassembling the bowthruster and removed the motor with the drive shaft attached. The machine shop here used a 100 ton hydraulic press to remove the splined fitting from the end of the drive shaft where the fitting was just held by corrosion. No amount of tugging was going to work! The drive shaft is ordinary steel and although the bulk of it is immersed in oil, the upper couple of inches are exposed to both air and splashed sea water that makes it's way past the foam rubber seals. I would recommend using anti-seize compound on this joint when performing the regular two year service of the bowthruster.
Ed


Bad Salt Water Manifold

eric freedman
 

Has anyone had problems with the salt-water manifold rotting out?
This is the manifold that connects to the electric head pumps, the
watermaker, the anchor wash, and the A/c pump via the sea strainer.

Last week I noticed a small drip from the manifold. I touched it and
my finger went right through the A/C tap on the manifold. When I
removed the manifold, the A/C tap looked like Swiss cheese. I had to
saw off the tap and put a hose and clamps over it to temporarily use
the manifold. When I tried to put the manifold back, it snapped off.
It appears that the factory soldered a BRASS pipe nipple to the end of
the copper manifold.
This caused electrolysis and the manifold to fail at the junction
where it screws into the ball valve. I am having a new manifold made
out of stainless in St Martin. Has anyone else seen such a problem?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM2000 Bilge Pump

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

For whatever it is worth Vitus makes a simlar pump
that looks like a replacement. You might want to
check that out.
Keep on pump"in.... Richard SM 209 Challenge in
Antigua
--- agav8ter <agav8ter@yahoo.com> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Steele"
<edmundsteele@...> wrote:

Tony,
Hello Ed,

Thanks for the reply. Yes it is the power pump.
The motor is fine
and it is making the diaphram "stroke". I have
already pulled the
suction hose and cleaned it. The check valve in the
"foot" holds
water with just a small, small drip. I feel
confident that it is
fine. I do think that the trouble is with the two
check valves and
the fix you described was appreciated, and that is
my next step. I
am fortunate in that I have a brand new motor and
pump complete in my
spares locker, but I would prefer to keep it new and
repair the
existing. Again thanks for your reply.

Tony



I assume that you mean the power bilge pump. First
see if the motor
is running. If so, see if the pump diaphragm is
being depressed in a
reciprocal manner by the motor. I have had a pump
where the nylon
gears broke and although there was nothing wrong
with the motor, the
Italian manufacturer did not offer a component
replacement for the
reciprocal gearbox. Bummer! I had to buy the whole
unit.



If the motor is running but the pump is not
working, remove the
pump cover (left side). If you do not have
replacement rubbers for
the two valves, you can either turn the existing
rubbers upside down
and reinstall them, or simply cut new rubbers from a
blank sheet
using the old rubbers as a template. You can usually
get to the
bottom valve flap easily using a jeweler's Phillips
headed
screwdriver. The top one is tougher and I have had
to resort to a
Phillips screwdriver bit in a " socket. It is
usually the bottom
rubber that gives the problem because it holds the
weight of a
column of water and develops a "curl" after a while.
If the valve
replacement does not work, pull out the hose from
the sump and
replace the one-way valve in the "strum box". These
are usually easy
to find at any marine supplier in the USA. Messy but
it is
only "grey" water.

Fair Winds



Ed Steele

SV DoodleBug SM #331


[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]



____________________________________________________________________________________
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM2000 Bilge Pump

Ag Av8ter
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Steele"
<edmundsteele@...> wrote:

Tony,
Hello Ed,

Thanks for the reply. Yes it is the power pump. The motor is fine
and it is making the diaphram "stroke". I have already pulled the
suction hose and cleaned it. The check valve in the "foot" holds
water with just a small, small drip. I feel confident that it is
fine. I do think that the trouble is with the two check valves and
the fix you described was appreciated, and that is my next step. I
am fortunate in that I have a brand new motor and pump complete in my
spares locker, but I would prefer to keep it new and repair the
existing. Again thanks for your reply.

Tony



I assume that you mean the power bilge pump. First see if the motor
is running. If so, see if the pump diaphragm is being depressed in a
reciprocal manner by the motor. I have had a pump where the nylon
gears broke and although there was nothing wrong with the motor, the
Italian manufacturer did not offer a component replacement for the
reciprocal gearbox. Bummer! I had to buy the whole unit.



If the motor is running but the pump is not working, remove the
pump cover (left side). If you do not have replacement rubbers for
the two valves, you can either turn the existing rubbers upside down
and reinstall them, or simply cut new rubbers from a blank sheet
using the old rubbers as a template. You can usually get to the
bottom valve flap easily using a jeweler's Phillips headed
screwdriver. The top one is tougher and I have had to resort to a
Phillips screwdriver bit in a ¼" socket. It is usually the bottom
rubber that gives the problem because it holds the weight of a
column of water and develops a "curl" after a while. If the valve
replacement does not work, pull out the hose from the sump and
replace the one-way valve in the "strum box". These are usually easy
to find at any marine supplier in the USA. Messy but it is
only "grey" water.

Fair Winds



Ed Steele

SV DoodleBug SM #331


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM2000 Bilge Pump

edmund_steele
 

Tony,

I assume that you mean the power bilge pump. First see if the motor is running. If so, see if the pump diaphragm is being depressed in a reciprocal manner by the motor. I have had a pump where the nylon gears broke and although there was nothing wrong with the motor, the Italian manufacturer did not offer a component replacement for the reciprocal gearbox. Bummer! I had to buy the whole unit.



If the motor is running but the pump is not working, remove the pump cover (left side). If you do not have replacement rubbers for the two valves, you can either turn the existing rubbers upside down and reinstall them, or simply cut new rubbers from a blank sheet using the old rubbers as a template. You can usually get to the bottom valve flap easily using a jeweler's Phillips headed screwdriver. The top one is tougher and I have had to resort to a Phillips screwdriver bit in a ¼" socket. It is usually the bottom rubber that gives the problem because it holds the weight of a column of water and develops a "curl" after a while. If the valve replacement does not work, pull out the hose from the sump and replace the one-way valve in the "strum box". These are usually easy to find at any marine supplier in the USA. Messy but it is only "grey" water.

Fair Winds



Ed Steele

SV DoodleBug SM #331


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


SM2000 Bilge Pump

Ag Av8ter
 

Hello all,

I checked the "seach feature" and did mnot come up with an answer. My
bilge pump just stopped pumping (SM#266). Does anyone know where I can
purchase an overhaul kit for the pump in the US? Thanks for your help.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM#266


New SSB Antenna

David Miller <windmillerii@...>
 

Is any one familiar with the Split Lead Antenna
http://www.gamelectronicsinc.com/ssb.htm
Would like to install this on my Amel 54
Thanks
David


---------------------------------
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Thruster stuck

edmund_steele
 

David and Craig,

Thank you so much for your prompt responses. I would love to go with Craig's treatment but unfortunately I can see through the bolt holes with a flashlight and observe that the plastic tube already turns slightly in the motor housing under just hand pressure. It seems that I have the David version of the problem, that is the fusing of the inner metal drive shaft to the motor shaft. I will probably need to attempt the lower gearbox disassembly as David details. Thanks again both of you and wish me luck.

Fair Winds,

Ed


Re: Bow Thruster stuck

Craig Briggs
 

Ed,
Before you go to a lot of possibly unnecessary trouble - don't give up!
Keep on with the WD40 soaking and rather than trying to "jerk" things
loose by running the thruster or banging the electric motor, try this.
Put a strap wrench around the electic motor, either a chain wrench or a
rubber strap one. Then put a lengh of pipe over the strap wrench
handle for added leverage. Then carefully torque this up, trying to
turn the motor just a few degrees either right or left. Do this with
the thruster retracted: the lower housing will act to resist your
turning of the motor. Be patient, turn it right, then left, then right,
etc. Be patient and sooner or later it will break free just a bit -
then keep nudging it back and forth. At first you may only be able to
go a few degrees at a time, but it will break loose after a while.
Don't give up!

Cheers, Craig


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster stuck

David Miller <windmillerii@...>
 

I had SM # 325 and had the exact same problem !
I now have an Amel 54 Windmiller II.
I will be sailing in the Med Red Ralley departing 1st May from Finike.
Now to your BIG Problem
Before I did what you may have to do. Amel told me to disconnect the motor from the cables and drop it. Good Luck ! I did this many times with no success.
This is Probably what you should do:
You will have to separate the plastic shaft tube from the motor and metal shaft. This you will acheive by going into the gear box behind the propellor. You will have to take apart all the gear mechanizem & propellor.
Unscrew the metal shaft from the gear mechanizem. This will separate the motor and metal shaft from the plastic shaft tube.
Once you have this separation you can take the electric motor and metal shaft up and out the forward hatch.
Take to a workshop and disasseble motor to bear minimum.
With two burners, heat up the female part of the connection between shaft and motor, after much hammering it will come loose. While doing this I put the coil in bucket of water so that coils of motor want get damaged from the heat and the shaft was held in a vise.
This is going to be a good oppertunity to change all the bearings and seals, inspect gear mechanisem.
After I found water in the bottom of the motor casing, I drilled four holes in the bottom of the motor casing to allow water to exit. (I thought it was good idea but not sure)

If you have any questions, I'm in Israel +972 544 700313

Good Luck
David Miller

Ed Steele <edmundsteele@earthlink.net> wrote:
I have just returned to SV DoodleBug SM #331 which is currently "on the
hard" at Marmaris, Turkey. I attempted to perform a routine 24 month service
on the bow-thruster in order to replace the seals and oil. I removed the
band that prevents the retaining screws from being removed and then removed
all four of the 6mm Allen headed retaining bolts. The bow thruster leg will
not drop from the drive motor. By looking through the retaining bolt holes,
I can see that the shaft body has dropped several mm. from the motor housing
and is now stuck. I have sprayed WD40 oil through the bolt holes but I
believe that the "foot" drive shaft is stuck to the motor drive shaft -
probably by corrosion. I have tried lowering the unit and running the
propeller in both directions and have also tried placing a block of wood
inside the propeller housing and then raising the unit. So far nothing has
worked.

My questions are:
1) Is there anything I have forgotten to unbolt that is holding the
bowthruster foot to the motor?
2) If not, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can separate these
units so that I can complete the service?

Ed Steele

edmundsteele@earthlink.net
doodlebug@gmn-usa.com






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Bow Thruster stuck

edmund_steele
 

I have just returned to SV DoodleBug SM #331 which is currently "on the
hard" at Marmaris, Turkey. I attempted to perform a routine 24 month service
on the bow-thruster in order to replace the seals and oil. I removed the
band that prevents the retaining screws from being removed and then removed
all four of the 6mm Allen headed retaining bolts. The bow thruster leg will
not drop from the drive motor. By looking through the retaining bolt holes,
I can see that the shaft body has dropped several mm. from the motor housing
and is now stuck. I have sprayed WD40 oil through the bolt holes but I
believe that the "foot" drive shaft is stuck to the motor drive shaft -
probably by corrosion. I have tried lowering the unit and running the
propeller in both directions and have also tried placing a block of wood
inside the propeller housing and then raising the unit. So far nothing has
worked.

My questions are:
1) Is there anything I have forgotten to unbolt that is holding the
bowthruster foot to the motor?
2) If not, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can separate these
units so that I can complete the service?

Ed Steele

edmundsteele@earthlink.net
doodlebug@gmn-usa.com