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Brent Cameron
I use a small knot in the end of a rope that will go through the hole in the centre fairly easily and then I put a hosek on it and it blows the knot through in about 2 seconds flat. (Assumes the noodles have a hole up the centre, all the ones I’ve seen do.
On Jul 5, 2020, 4:41 PM -0400, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...>, wrote:
Hi Marc
I like the idea with the swimming noodles. I would like to test it, but I don’t have an idea how to move a line through them?
Can you give me a hint how you managed?
Thanks and best regards
Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl
"SY WASABI"
Amel 54. #55
On the way from Sicily to Apulia
Or, you can accomplish the same result using a couple of swimming noodles with a line through them and tied under the stern of the boat.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
Hi Jamie,
We have used this over the past 5 years. We were for 2 years in Port Corbieres, Marseille and then wintered 3 years in Marina de Ragusa, Sicily. The Slap Silencer has 4 simple cords for easy attachment to the stern side upright rails, does get growth of algae which cleans off easily.This is available online. US product “www.slapsilencer.com”
I would recommend this if you are in a marina for a week or more.
We pack it away after fresh water wash and dry in supplied bag under our master bunk.
You will see that the Slap Silencer is more than a piece of canvas.
We have not needed it whilst we have been at anchor here for the past few months as we are always pointing into the breeze and small waves coming off shore.
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
Barry, I was reading this thread and saw your comment about the "Slap Silencer." You noted it was online, but where?
I have this problem with my 54, but mostly have become numb to the slapping in the aft cabin. The boat came with a very heavy canvas in a bag, and I suspect that is what it is for, but I have never tried it.
Can you provide more details about your solution? Is my bag carrying the right thing, and if so how do I use it?
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44
-- Brent Cameron
Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator
Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada
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Rudolf Waldispuehl
Hi Marc I like the idea with the swimming noodles. I would like to test it, but I don’t have an idea how to move a line through them? Can you give me a hint how you managed? Thanks and best regards Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl "SY WASABI" Amel 54. #55 On the way from Sicily to Apulia
Or, you can accomplish the same result using a couple of
swimming noodles with a line through them and tied under the stern of the boat.
With best
regards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently
cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us Hi Jamie, We have used this over the past 5 years. We were for 2 years
in Port Corbieres, Marseille and then wintered 3 years in Marina de
Ragusa, Sicily. The Slap Silencer has 4 simple cords for easy attachment to the
stern side upright rails, does get growth of algae which cleans off easily.This
is available online. US product “www.slapsilencer.com” I would recommend this if you are in a marina for a week or
more. We pack it away after fresh water wash and dry in supplied
bag under our master bunk. You will see that the Slap Silencer is more than a piece of
canvas. We have not needed it whilst we have been at anchor here for
the past few months as we are always pointing into the breeze and small waves
coming off shore. Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
On Jul 4, 2020, at 09:19, Jamie
Wendell < mysticshadow54@...> wrote: Barry,
I was reading this thread and saw your comment about the "Slap
Silencer." You noted it was online, but where?
I have this problem with my 54, but mostly have become numb to the slapping in
the aft cabin. The boat came with a very heavy canvas in a bag, and I suspect
that is what it is for, but I have never tried it.
Can you provide more details about your solution? Is my bag carrying the right
thing, and if so how do I use it?
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44
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Re: Boar speed om Amel SM200
There is not a simple answer to your question, but there are answers. There are 3 general choices and several more that will work:
1.) Replace the sonic speed SOW sensors. Several owners have indeed bought new sensors recently 2.) Add a B&G-compatible paddlewheel through-hull transducer for speed (SOW) 3. Add a SOG to SOW NEMA 0183 converter and everything works fine, except you cannot calculate "set & drift," but unless you plan to rac your SM, you will not need to know these.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 2:33 PM Slavko Despotovi < slavko@...> wrote: Hello,
I just become the owner of SM 2000 hull nr. 279. Name Bonne Anse. Boat speed is not working. Surveyer Oliver said that problem is in sensor. Any experince if I would change with sensor for depth, temperature and speed sensor?
Thank you,
Slavko
SM 2000 279
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Slavko Despotovic
Hello,
I just become the owner of SM 2000 hull nr. 279. Name Bonne Anse. Boat speed is not working. Surveyer Oliver said that problem is in sensor. Any experince if I would change with sensor for depth, temperature and speed sensor?
Thank you,
Slavko
SM 2000 279
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Did your mechanic Isolate the 12-volt negative?
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Hi Marco, Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine? If yes, did you have it modified in any way?
Thanks, Kent SM 243 Kristy
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karkauai
Hi Marco, Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine? If yes, did you have it modified in any way?
Thanks, Kent SM 243 Kristy
On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote: dears,
the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably never reached in our 20 years of SM more than 2500 2600 rpm , The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv, the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and 2.8 of the yanmar 100 ) that is the new version of the well known Yanmar 100 cv installed by Amel after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5 at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime) and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . cheers and good wind . marco mancini SM 304
Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock < peacock8491@...> ha scritto:
This is question without a definitive answer. We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that. Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged.
Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Chesapeake Bay with its tiny keyboard Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
Any suggestion?
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain
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dears,
the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably never reached in our 20 years of SM more than 2500 2600 rpm , The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv, the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and 2.8 of the yanmar 100 ) that is the new version of the well known Yanmar 100 cv installed by Amel after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5 at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime) and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . cheers and good wind . marco mancini SM 304
Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock < peacock8491@...> ha scritto:
This is question without a definitive answer. We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that. Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged.
Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Chesapeake Bay with its tiny keyboard Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
Any suggestion?
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Dean Gillies
Scott/Jamie,
I wonder if you could please do me a huge favour, and measure the voltages at pins 1 through 8 on the blue E51385 pump controller with the pump operating and also when the pump is not operating (you may have to temporarily turn up the temps on your fridges to make the compressors turn the pump off). So that's 16 DC voltage measurements in total, 8 with pump operating and 8 with pump not operating.
Fix the black multimeter probe on pin 9 (Negative) and measure the other 8 pins with the red probe.
(note pins are numbered Left to right on the blue box).
I need this data to confirm my understanding of the circuit operation.
many thanks
Dean Gillies
SY Stella
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Re: Isolated ground solenoid
Sorry Tom= Mark--
I have been sending all this to Marks attention--
One step at a time however the black solenoid to the left of the valeo is a Yanmar oem starter solenoid is also in this circuit.
This could also be the problem. But, lets check out the voltage to the Valeo first.
Fair Winds,
Good Night.
Eric
Sm376 Kimberlite
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
STOP LEAVER
On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit
On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery
On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376
Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.
On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Tom,
In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid
To,
Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.
Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?
If you are able to start the engine then try the following.
Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.
If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.
The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.
Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.
It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.
That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x.
I would love to know what you find.
The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.
If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.
It could be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have.
The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.
The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button
Where are you located?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.
somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite.
On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.
Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai
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Re: Isolated ground solenoid
STOP LEAVER
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit
On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery
On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376
Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.
On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Tom,
In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid
To,
Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.
Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?
If you are able to start the engine then try the following.
Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.
If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.
The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.
Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.
It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.
That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x.
I would love to know what you find.
The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.
If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.
It could be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have.
The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.
The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button
Where are you located?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.
somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite.
On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.
Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai
|
|
|
Re: Isolated ground solenoid
You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery
On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376
Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.
On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Tom,
In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid
To,
Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.
Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?
If you are able to start the engine then try the following.
Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.
If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.
The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.
Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.
It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.
That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x.
I would love to know what you find.
The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.
If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.
It could be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have.
The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.
The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button
Where are you located?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.
somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite.
On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.
Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai
|
|
|
The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery
On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376
Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.
On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Tom, In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue. With best regards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid To, Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests. Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine? If you are able to start the engine then try the following. Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid. If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram. The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire. Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires. It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine. That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. I would love to know what you find. The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button. If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding. It could be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have. The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin. The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button Where are you located? Fair Winds, Eric SM 376 Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements. somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.
Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai
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Re: Isolated ground solenoid
Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376
Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Tom,
In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid
To,
Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.
Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?
If you are able to start the engine then try the following.
Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.
If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.
The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.
Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.
It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.
That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x.
I would love to know what you find.
The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.
If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.
It could be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have.
The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.
The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button
Where are you located?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.
somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite.
On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.
Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai
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Ralf
You are welcome. I am at place A14 in the Marina Kalamata.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: Isolated ground solenoid
Mark Erdos
Tom,
In addition to
the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This
is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.
With best
regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently
cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
[mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid
To,
Before
you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.
Does the
engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the
engine?
If you
are able to start the engine then try the following.
Measure
the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and
the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5
volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar
black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.
If you
do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the
panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.
The red
wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire
is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.
Remove
the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining
the 2 wires.
It is
about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that
connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both
closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.
That
wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard
side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the
3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x.
I would
love to know what you find.
The
valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What
makes it different is the back actuator button.
If you
have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If
the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not
isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.
It could
be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have.
The 24
volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side
forward cabin.
The
Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot
of money for a rubber button
Where
are you located?
Fair
Winds,
Eric
SM 376
Ps do
you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the
engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm.
If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least
send me a photo with measurements.
somehow
the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite.
On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman
<lorient422@...> wrote:
So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid,
cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but
need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my
spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt
solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the
"s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative
to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ?
Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to
do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.
Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai
|
|
|
Re: Isolated ground solenoid
To, Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests. Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine? If you are able to start the engine then try the following. Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.
If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.
The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire. Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires. It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.
That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x.
I would love to know what you find. The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.
If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding. It could be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have.
The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin. The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button Where are you located? Fair Winds, Eric SM 376
Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements. somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite.
On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.
Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai
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Re: Isolated ground solenoid
Oops. Should have mentioned that. 4JH3-HTE.
100 HP yanmar
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Dean Gillies
Jamie,
Great news, it seems to be operating as designed.
The 24V indicator led is lit up by the 24V power supply from the compressors. This shows that the system is operating from a 24V supply. It can also operate from 12V, in which case the 12V LED will be illuminated.
The drop from 24V to 12V of the pump supply under load is the expected operation. There are various circuit incarnations which could be inside the E51385, but it is not unusual to see this behaviour in a 24-12V conversion circuit.
I'm planning to write up a detailed description of the intended operation of the system as originally delivered and post it in the files.
Good luck with the brushless motor experiment.
Best regards
Dean
SY Stella
Sent from my iPhone X
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Re: Isolated ground solenoid
Mark Erdos
Tom,
What engine is
this on? I am unfamiliar with a button on the solenoid.
With best
regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently
cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
[mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 11:47 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid
So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x
in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by
pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the
years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole
Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to
the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid
relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any
thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not
confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.
Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai
|
|
|
So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.
Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai
|
|
|
