Hi Ian,
I am seriously contemplating the same task on SM331. Where did you
get your hot water heater anode? Is this something you can pick up at
West Marine or another special order item?

Ed Steele
DoodleBug

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy

design..why

couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the

outside....the

good news however was that the existing anode was only about half

used,

after three years and about 18 months aboard.I´ll look again in

2006!Ian

From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest

job I

have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water

as

you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot

of

water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years

old

I am

about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the

boat are

actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the

anode

be

changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to

change so

often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which

we

havent

been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh

water

from the

tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you

can

move the

tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base

whereupon

all will

be revealed, and that then it´s just a matter of undoing a

nut
in

the bottom

of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing

the

new one.(

I´m assuming that I will find that the anode has its own

access

hole into

the tank and that it´s not , for instance, part of the heater

element

fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of

any

problems

or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to

hear.

Thanks, Ian Jenkins

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Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy design..why couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the outside....the good news however was that the existing anode was only about half used, after three years and about 18 months aboard.Ill look again in 2006!Ian

From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest job I
have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water as
you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot of
water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years old

I am

about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the

boat are

actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the anode

be

changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to

change so

often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which we

havent

been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh water

from the

tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you can

move the

tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base whereupon

all will

be revealed, and that then its just a matter of undoing a nut in

the bottom

of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing the

new one.(

Im assuming that I will find that the anode has its own access

hole into

the tank and that its not , for instance, part of the heater

element

fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of any

problems

or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to

hear.

Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger

today!

http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

_________________________________________________________________
Sign-up for a FREE BT Broadband connection today! http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

Hello Ian,

It's my 50th Birthday and I'm assisting my mid life crisis by improving my
open wheel racing skills, what fun! I'm up at ROAD AMERICA in Wisconsin
for some formula car racing school at my favorite track.

The BEST Volvo diesel mechanic I have ever had experience has moved North
from Ft. Lauderdale to the Palm Beach area. He is KLAUSE of KLAUSE MARINE.
His phone # is 1 (561) 383-5055. He is as strident and opinionated as I am
which may rub some the wrong way but he knows what he is doing. If he can't
fix it...cant be fixed.

The local guy in Fort Lauderdale is John O'Hara of O'Hara Marine, 1 (954)
765-1960. I have not had occasion to try him yet.

Hope this helps.
All the best,
Joel F. Potter - Super Maramu #400

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest job I
have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water as
you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot of
water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years old

I am

about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the

boat are

actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the anode

be

changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to

change so

often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which we

havent

been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh water

from the

tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you can

move the

tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base whereupon

all will

be revealed, and that then it´s just a matter of undoing a nut in

the bottom

of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing the

new one.(

I´m assuming that I will find that the anode has its own access

hole into

the tank and that it´s not , for instance, part of the heater

element

fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of any

problems

or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to

hear.

Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger

today!

http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years old I am about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the boat are actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the anode be changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to change so often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which we havent been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh water from the tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you can move the tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base whereupon all will be revealed, and that then its just a matter of undoing a nut in the bottom of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing the new one.( Im assuming that I will find that the anode has its own access hole into the tank and that its not , for instance, part of the heater element fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of any problems or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to hear.
Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger today! http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

Dear Bill, Marty and Joel,
Thanks for all your replies. Im in Ecuador looking to get some spares shipped out ( theyve not heard of Volvo here) and between you I think Ive got all the info I need.
Happy birthday Joel! Life is about to begin! Best regards, Ian

_________________________________________________________________
Sign-up for a FREE BT Broadband connection today! http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

Dear Bob, We have SM#160, and our stripes faded, etc. At the
suggestion of friends, Glen and Julie Bradley on SM C'est Assez, we
painted our stripes. We love it as do all who have seen it: our boat
looks new.

The job looks bigger than it is. First we tried "free hand painting
as Julie and Glen did. But we were not steady enough and were not
getting a finished result we liked. We tried taping and doing free
hand again. The deck is not smooth and taping does not stop the
bleeding into the light brown. Again the end result was not good.
Finally we found the paint striper Joel referred to via the internet
from J.C. Whitney, auto parts wholesaler. Our striper was the one
they had at 1/16 of an inch. I now know that there are other sizes
but I do not know where to get them. The 1/16 inch worked fine you
must just go back and forth several times to fill in the whole
groove. The stiper cost about $10 and about the same to mail it to
us.

Instead of the two part polyurethane paint, we used one part. In
discussions with the paint experts we expect this to last around 10
years. It is now 1 year old and looks like new. We painted our
stripes black. Talking to another SM owner who saw our decks, he has
found (or had made a dark brown). It is not a standard color that is
available in the quantity (qt) we wanted. And we think the black
truly makes our decks look like teak. We poured the paint into a
plastic squeeze bottle so I could readily refill the striper as I
painted. Paint etc. cost us about $40.

Now for the work effort. My husband, Ralph, preped sections of the
deck for my painting(about 1 hr. each day I painted). This consisted
of washing, lightly sanding the grooves (he used an edge (pink pearl
eraser) the size of the grooves and then wiping with a sovent to
again clean grooves. These instructions as per the polyurethane can.
I then painted with the striper and used the solvent on a rag around
my finger to take off any stray paint. I also used a fine brush at
times for corners, bends, etc. I was on my hands and knees while
painting and a good knee pad is essential. It took me 9 days to do
the entire deck and I worked no more than 4 hrs a day. I got better
as I went and I waited until we had reasonable weather, not too much
heat. It took another 5 or 6 days to do the cockpit. About 50 hours
in total. The end result is well worth it. By the way, you will be
amazed at the different look (lighter) of the "teak" boards with the
increased contrast.

Good striping!!

Ann and Ralph on SM#160 Harmonie



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rossirossix4"
<equinoxsolstice@h...> wrote:

Does anyone have any good techniques for darkening the faded dark
grooves in the faux teak decks. I'm OK with the faded "teak"
boards, but want to darken the gooves which have faded and
disappeared in places.

Bob Rossi, Santorin "Hanalei"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

Can anyone send me the email address of a good Volvo agent in

Florida--

maybe the one who Joel Potter uses--he is away until 12 Sept.

Thanks. Ian

Jenkins SM 302

I had great success with getting Volvo and Onan parts by mail from
J.D.Neeson at Marine Parts Express. He went to great effort for an
initially very small order. Phone number is toll-free 877-621-2628
and the e-mail is inquiry@marinepartsexpress.com
Bill on Lady Sadie

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of 56k? Get a FREE BT Broadband connection
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

I have a Zeise installed in my Super Maramu. The control panel has
an indicator light notifying me that there's water in the 'capsule'.
Does anyone know where or what this 'capsule' is, and how to remove
the water? The manual is no help to me on this matter!
Thanks
Richard

Can anyone send me the email address of a good Volvo agent in Florida--
maybe the one who Joel Potter uses--he is away until 12 Sept. Thanks. Ian Jenkins SM 302

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of 56k? Get a FREE BT Broadband connection http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

Joel,
how are the new stainless rub rails fitted to the new red stripe
amels?
can these be retrofitted to Kimberlite?
thanks
eric

please say hi to vela.

Hello Joel,
what uv inhibitor do you use on your boat?
thanks
eric


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@w...> wrote:

Hello Mr. Rossi,

The problem with the dark brown deck stripes is that they are made

of gel

coat. The darker the gel coat, the faster it oxidizes and fades

away. You

can preserve new gel coat with judicious applications of proper

ultra violet

inhibitors. It is nearly impossible to restore faded/missing dark

brown gel

coat. When you polish or clean it, you are removing it.

The fix is tedious and time consuming if you do it yourself or

rather

expensive ($1500) if you hire it out. In twenty five years of

preparing

used Amels for the resale market, the only real solution is to

paint these

stripes on with two part polyurethane paint after scrupulous

preparation of

the surface as directed by the instructions on the paint can.

READ THE

INSTRUCTIONS! It will save a lot of grief.

Some automotive paint supply stores (wholesale level) sell very

nice narrow

gauge paint rollers with a self contained paint reservoir. I have

used

these to good effect. Otherwise, mask and use artist camel hair

brushes.

The results will please you if you carefully prepare and mask the

surface

and if you READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.

Good luck.

Joel F. Potter SMM # 400

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rossirossix4"
<equinoxsolstice@h...> wrote:

Does anyone have any good techniques for darkening the faded dark
grooves in the faux teak decks. I'm OK with the faded "teak"
boards, but want to darken the gooves which have faded and
disappeared in places.

Bob Rossi, Santorin "Hanalei"

Bob

I have SM6 which obviously is one of the first SM's made. The whole
boat is well maintained and looks good for her age. The decks however
are totally faded. My response? Leave it alone, the longer it ages
and fades the more realistic the "Faux" looks. I have had many people
ask why my SM has real teak and others have fake. That's how real it
looks when it gets really faded. Stick with it, it will look good
later and save you a lot of money/work. That's why Henri hates wood
on deck.
Regards
Bob Linley
SM6 "Minaxi"

Hello Mr. Rossi,

The problem with the dark brown deck stripes is that they are made of gel
coat. The darker the gel coat, the faster it oxidizes and fades away. You
can preserve new gel coat with judicious applications of proper ultra violet
inhibitors. It is nearly impossible to restore faded/missing dark brown gel
coat. When you polish or clean it, you are removing it.

The fix is tedious and time consuming if you do it yourself or rather
expensive ($1500) if you hire it out. In twenty five years of preparing
used Amels for the resale market, the only real solution is to paint these
stripes on with two part polyurethane paint after scrupulous preparation of
the surface as directed by the instructions on the paint can. READ THE
INSTRUCTIONS! It will save a lot of grief.

Some automotive paint supply stores (wholesale level) sell very nice narrow
gauge paint rollers with a self contained paint reservoir. I have used
these to good effect. Otherwise, mask and use artist camel hair brushes.
The results will please you if you carefully prepare and mask the surface
and if you READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.

Good luck.

Joel F. Potter SMM # 400

Dear Eric,

Could you give answers (small) online in the way to be seen by other
members ?
Many thanks
Fred


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:

Vito,
i have both.
give me a call 631-423-2000.
eric
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 <no_reply@y...>

wrote:

Hi

I purchased the crash bar to install on my SM #283. I am not

exactly

sure of the best location to install it. Some of you have this
feature on your boats. It would be great if you can desribe to me

the

location and installation done by Amel. Better yet post a picture.

On another subject, I want to install the Bose speaker system on

my

boat. Does anyone know if I need to install an amplifier or will

the

standard radio work by itself.

Thank You

Vito Ciaravino

ASM 283

Wanderer

Does anyone have any good techniques for darkening the faded dark
grooves in the faux teak decks. I'm OK with the faded "teak"
boards, but want to darken the gooves which have faded and
disappeared in places.

Bob Rossi, Santorin "Hanalei"

Vito,
i have both.
give me a call 631-423-2000.
eric
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Hi

I purchased the crash bar to install on my SM #283. I am not

exactly

sure of the best location to install it. Some of you have this
feature on your boats. It would be great if you can desribe to me

the

location and installation done by Amel. Better yet post a picture.

On another subject, I want to install the Bose speaker system on

my

boat. Does anyone know if I need to install an amplifier or will

the

standard radio work by itself.

Thank You

Vito Ciaravino

ASM 283

Wanderer

Hi

I purchased the crash bar to install on my SM #283. I am not exactly
sure of the best location to install it. Some of you have this
feature on your boats. It would be great if you can desribe to me the
location and installation done by Amel. Better yet post a picture.

On another subject, I want to install the Bose speaker system on my
boat. Does anyone know if I need to install an amplifier or will the
standard radio work by itself.

Thank You

Vito Ciaravino

ASM 283

Wanderer

Paul,
I upgraded my boat SM331 to the Raymarine electronics. The
chartplotter / radar display uses CMAP NT (or NT+) cartridges. In
order to make my laptop software compatible, so I could plan
routes "offline" so to speak, I bought the Raytech Navigator program
from Raymarine, plus a USB port reader for the cartridges. You can
also buy an NMEA to SEATALK converter box so that you can hook your
laptop into your nav system. The documentation for the Raytech
navigator program is amazingly poor but the interface is fairly
intuitive and the on-line help is OK. I bought the software and
cartridge reader from www.landfallnav.com.
Ed Steele
DoodleBug #SM331

I will be taking delivery of hull 418 late next month. I have the
new Raymarine electrontics package and MaxSea software on my
laptop. Any suggestions as to which charts...cartridge or CD.. is
there a chartridge reader available which would allow me to download
off the computer to the plotter?? Don't want to duplicate the
charts and $$$ Paul Camp Lady "H"