Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hi Paul,

sorry to hear about all your problems. when you say that Amel said your high
pressure pump was leaking, I assume that they meant that compressed water
was leaking back past the pistons? I don't quite see how this would increase
the load on the genset. I would have thought that if the pump could not
create enough pressure, then the pistons would not be causing so much back
force against the motor?

Anyway, what Roy has suggested makes good sense. I did research last week at
the London Boat Show the possibility of fitting an AC ammeter in the galley
to monitor the genset load.

The easiest way to do this would be to get the type that uses a current
transformer which could be mounted at the genset, and simply run a pair of
light gauge wires to the instrument in the galley. Cost is about 50 Pounds
Sterling.

It is unfortunate that Amel do not mention the load that the 160 l/h water
maker creates in the list of loads in the user manual. Roy, can you please
tell us what current it draws from your meter? Onan told me that the 6.5 KW
(renamed 7KW after they were told they had used conservative measurement
methods), should trip at 30 Amps AC load.

I am also considering fitting a DC ammeter to the Sailor 24/12V converters
that run our 12V equipment. It's very easy to exceed the 6 amp rating on
these units as we add more and more goodies that mostly come as 12V input
only. I think I will run my second laptop from the one that feeds only the
VHF, as far as I can see.

One of todays projects is to get the Hydra to read the correct wind
direction! More later .... perhaps.

Incidentally, Hanna TDS1 salinity meters can be obtained new for just $22
from Ebay. I also noticed there that there is another manufacturer that
makes a panel mounted digital display tester for just $74. This is mounted
permanently in line with the water maker output and will display the TDS
reading at the push of a button. I have not yet checked, but I reckon it
could be mounted on the sink bulkhead, perhaps to the left of the sink.

Regards

Ian Shepherd #414 'Crusader'
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Watermaker salinity sensor - clarification

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

Alas, it seems my memory is weakening. I finally spoke this weekend
to the SM owner who first told me about the sensor issue. This is
the corrected version of what he told me several years ago:
This owner, "A", heard from another SM owner "B" that his salinity
sensor wasn't working. This was based on the constant two-minute
start-up delay and two tests: shorting the contacts didn't affect
the unit, and dipping them in a glass of salt water didn't either.
Owner "A" conducted the same tests and obtained the same results. At
the time, both owners speculated that the salinity sensor wasn't
connected, and assumed that it had been done on purpose. This is
when I learned about the issue.
Owner "B" then contacted Dessalator and was told that his unit
wasn't working properly, and that the solution was replacement of the
circuit board at a cost of several hundred dollars. (it was out of
warranty, of course). The alternative was to purchase a simple
salinity tester for about $50. This is what owner "A" eventually did.
I apologize for any misrepresentation of facts or events. In the
future, I will make sure of my facts before reporting hearsay.
Thanks, Ian, for researching the facts for all of us.
Regards, Roy


Monitoring of AC loads

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi,
I have been following the discussion about running the washing
machine and watermaker at the same time, with some owners reporting
overloading the genset.
A few years ago, I had Amel (in Hyeres) install an AC voltmeter and
ammeter so that I could monitor AC voltage and loads. This was
mostly related to low amperage typically available dockside in
Europe, and I wanted to know which appliances I could run without
tripping the circuit breakers dockside.
Since then, I have found these instruments to be among the most
useful on board. They tell me when I am close to overloading the
genset or shore power, and most importantly, tell me when an
appliance is consuming too much (or too little) power. It also is a
good check on shore power voltage. It's a useful diagnostic tool. In
the case of the 220V watermaker, it would warn of impending pump
failure.
Since I didn't do the installation myself, I can't provide How-to
help, except to say that the meters were mounted inside the
compartment over the galley sink, where the steering cables are
visible. I'm sure any good electrician (and many owners) could
install them.
I would highly recommend these meters.
BTW, the washing machine uses electricity mostly to heat water, not
to spin, so running at a cooler wash temperature reduces load.

Regards, Roy

PS I am still waiting to hear from the SM owner in Europe who told
me about the salinity sensor on the watermaker being disconnected on
installation... I will post any information received.


Re: Water Maker Info

Paul
 

Hey there....in response to you question on the watermaker and
washing machine...I too like to make water while doing the wash.
Until lately I have not had a problem running the both together. In
Dec I found that my high pressure pump was leaking...Amel indicated I
would need tho have the pump rebuilt. At the same time the genset had
a hard time starting the watermaker and would kick the breaker unless
I started the watermaker with no other load. In in the Virgins
waiting for my Raymarine GPS and autopilot to be repaired so I could
sail down to Martinque to get the pump rebuilt....well today when
atempting to make water...the pump now stalls the Genset...my bet
more $$$ than just a rebuild....of course only 3 months out of
warranty. One would think the think would last for more than 200
hrs... Paul Camp SM418 Lady H WDB5667@sailmail.com

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <g4ljf@c...>
wrote:
As promised, here is the word on Dessalator water makers. It comes
via their
UK agent who met with Patrick, the number two at Dessalator last
weekend. I
was hoping to forward an email from them, but to date it has not
arrived.

Firstly our water makers are designed, built and installed with the
salinity
probe functional. The diverter valve will only send the water to the
freshwater tank after the 2 minute timer has completed it's cycle
and the
salinity probe detects that there is a low enough salt content. The
reason
why my short circuit test of the probe did nothing is that in order
to
prevent erosion of salinity tester probes, the polarity in reversed
some 500
times per second. Short circuiting does not simulate salty water. I
guess
the only way to test it would be to cap the probe hole and dunk the
probe in
a cup full of salt water.

If at any time the salinity probe detects salt, the unit does not
shut down,
but diverts the water overboard. The green 'water good' LED will
also change
colour.

Patrick also said that membrane perforation is very unlikely, the
more
common problem being that the membranes clog up, causing reduced
output. It
is possible that an O seal will fail or that a membrane end cap
might split.
However, if this happens, the salinity probe will detect bad water
and
immediately operate the diverter valve to send the bad water over
the side.
The symptoms of a perforated membrane would be an increased flow
rate above
normal and a low pressure indication.

So in a nutshell, we have nothing to be concerned with. Our
Dessalator water
makers are perfectly safe and should a membrane failure occur, they
will
fail to a safe condition.

In our conversation, one interesting point was raised. I don't know
about
you, but when I am using the washing machine, I do try and use the
gen set
to advantage by also running the water maker to replace the water
used.
Unfortunately, I cannot run my 160 l/h unit at more than about 80
l/h, else
the gen set trips. Does anyone else find this happens? Maybe I have
a slack
circuit breaker on the Onan. It should trip at 30 amps AC.

Patrick says that to run the water maker out of the green range is
not good
practice. The reason is that the membranes are constructed by
rolling up the
material like a roll of wall paper. In order for the membranes to
achieve a
perfect seal, they need to be under pressure, else sea water can
work its
way from the centre of the roll to the outside, maybe at
concentrations just
below the salinity probe detecting unsafe water. It will be OK but
not taste
quite so good.

I hope this clears up once and for all any doubts about our
equipment, which
I have always found to be excellent. The latest models have an
automatic
back flush, which may be beneficial if you don't use your water
maker
regularly. M. Wagner says that it is only necessary to back flush
if you are
not using the system for a period of 10 days or so, but automatic
flushing
might improve the taste and prolong the membrane life if you forget.

I have an inquiry out to see if the modification to an automatic
back flush
is feasible on our circuit boards, and at what cost. I will post
the answer.

Fair Winds

Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'
----------

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SM in Antarctica

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

For anyone interested in cruising Antarctica check out the website of SM Pure Magic. Irish flag, owned by Peter Skillen, launched last summer and now back in the Beagle channel after visiting Antarctica and about to set off for S Georgia and Cape Town. Web site www. getjealous.com/peter
On a different note, well done Ian for sorting out the position on the watermaker sensor.
And in connection with seals for the electric head do check that your spare parts kit actually contains a seal.Mine didnt, despite the fact that Jabsco boast that it is the only part you will have to watch out for. What Jabsco were doing producing a spare parts kit which ( by design) omitted the one spare part you need is beyond me. I can only assume that they owned shares in DHL.
Lastly, I too suffered from dezincification on my Onan heatexchanger.I brought this to the attention of Onan in the UK ( the branch that actually serves Amel) and they couldnt understand it. Wouldnt actually accept what is was. At that stage all that was happening was that the paint was crumbling off , not on the end plates as with John , but around the entry pipe. Onan told me that the anode was not needed and indeed when extracted it was in good condition. When I was next in La Rochelle, two years after launch, Amel knew exactly what I was concerned about and told me that the effect of the pipes was to insulate the heatexchanger from the rest of the engine and they put a metal strap onto the heat exchanger and connected it separately to the tray. One year later I had to fit a new exchanger, though to be fair to Amel the damage had probably already been done.Despite strapping the new exchanger, I see that there 18 months later there are fresh signs of crumbling paint...
Finally, taking off the water pump to change the impeller on the Onan is straightforward if you have a small ratchet set to access the the outboard bolt.( for which I am indebted to Kimberlite)
Fair winds, Ian and Judy, SM 302, Pen Azen, Chile


TECHNICAL INFO 1985 MARAMU 48' FURLING SYSTEMS

DENNIS STULLER <svcheechako@...>
 

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 1985 AMEL MARAMU 48' HULL#186
WHICH HAS PROBLEMS WITH THE MAIN FURLING SYSTEM.

APPARENTLY A BINDING BEARING AT THE TOP OF THE MAST
CAUSED THE MAIN DRIVE SHAFT TO TWIST OFF IN THE MAST.
AMEL ADVISES ME THAT THEY HAVE NEITHER PARTS NOR
TECHNICAL INFORMATION FOR MY BOAT AND ADVISED ME TO
TRY TO MANUFACTURE PARTS.

I AM HOPING THAT SOME OTHER OWNER OF A MARAMU OF MID
80S VINTAGE MIGHT SHARE THEIR TECHNICAL MANUALS AND
KNOWLEDGE. I WOULD HAPPILY PAY FOR ANY INFORMATION
WHICH WOULD ASSIST ME IN GETTING THIS BOAT SAILING.
THIS BOAT HAS ELECTRIC FURLING ON THE MAIN AND JIB AND
MANUAL FURLING ON THE MIZZEN.

I HAVE HAD MANY AMEL OWNERS BRAG TO ME ABOUT THEIR
LEVEL OF SATISFACTION WITH THEIR BOAT. HAS ANYONE ELSE
HAD THESE KINDS OF PROBLEMS.

THANKS, DENNIS AND KIKA STULLER S/Y DENALI




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RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal

Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
 

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<
Hello Gary,
What a brilliant solution to the impeller extraction problem, I am now
having the tool made up. The next problem is refitting the new impeller. My
solution is to coat it with silicon spray and then compress it with a nylon
cable tier so that bit fits easily onto the shaft making sure that it goes
on the right way round.
May I also remind one and all of the need to relpace the Onan heat
exchanger anode regularly, because , as I mentioned in a message long ago,
I did not and the outboard end plate, which is made of bronze, had been
dezincified and cracked from one side to the other. This could have become
a major problem but the rubber gasket had stopped the water from escaping.
The easiest way to replace the anode and clean out the remains of the old
one is to take the whole unit off complete with its fixing.
The drinks shelf suggested by others is interesting but I much prefer my
solution illstrated in Photoalbum SM319 as changing the big uncomfortable
seat with a chair on a gas filld strut pedestal and reusing the original
table on another fitting makes much better use of the cockpit when not
sailing to windward and especially at rest in harbour.

Regards, John


Water Maker Info

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

As promised, here is the word on Dessalator water makers. It comes via their
UK agent who met with Patrick, the number two at Dessalator last weekend. I
was hoping to forward an email from them, but to date it has not arrived.

Firstly our water makers are designed, built and installed with the salinity
probe functional. The diverter valve will only send the water to the
freshwater tank after the 2 minute timer has completed it's cycle and the
salinity probe detects that there is a low enough salt content. The reason
why my short circuit test of the probe did nothing is that in order to
prevent erosion of salinity tester probes, the polarity in reversed some 500
times per second. Short circuiting does not simulate salty water. I guess
the only way to test it would be to cap the probe hole and dunk the probe in
a cup full of salt water.

If at any time the salinity probe detects salt, the unit does not shut down,
but diverts the water overboard. The green 'water good' LED will also change
colour.

Patrick also said that membrane perforation is very unlikely, the more
common problem being that the membranes clog up, causing reduced output. It
is possible that an O seal will fail or that a membrane end cap might split.
However, if this happens, the salinity probe will detect bad water and
immediately operate the diverter valve to send the bad water over the side.
The symptoms of a perforated membrane would be an increased flow rate above
normal and a low pressure indication.

So in a nutshell, we have nothing to be concerned with. Our Dessalator water
makers are perfectly safe and should a membrane failure occur, they will
fail to a safe condition.

In our conversation, one interesting point was raised. I don't know about
you, but when I am using the washing machine, I do try and use the gen set
to advantage by also running the water maker to replace the water used.
Unfortunately, I cannot run my 160 l/h unit at more than about 80 l/h, else
the gen set trips. Does anyone else find this happens? Maybe I have a slack
circuit breaker on the Onan. It should trip at 30 amps AC.

Patrick says that to run the water maker out of the green range is not good
practice. The reason is that the membranes are constructed by rolling up the
material like a roll of wall paper. In order for the membranes to achieve a
perfect seal, they need to be under pressure, else sea water can work its
way from the centre of the roll to the outside, maybe at concentrations just
below the salinity probe detecting unsafe water. It will be OK but not taste
quite so good.

I hope this clears up once and for all any doubts about our equipment, which
I have always found to be excellent. The latest models have an automatic
back flush, which may be beneficial if you don't use your water maker
regularly. M. Wagner says that it is only necessary to back flush if you are
not using the system for a period of 10 days or so, but automatic flushing
might improve the taste and prolong the membrane life if you forget.

I have an inquiry out to see if the modification to an automatic back flush
is feasible on our circuit boards, and at what cost. I will post the answer.

Fair Winds

Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'
----------

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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.0 - Release Date: 1/17/2005


RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal

Patrick Naegels <naegels@...>
 

Hi Graham,

I have no problem to pull out impeller. I use 2 corner pliers. That
comes rather easy, but I have to say that I inspect (moved out) or
replace this impeller every 200H. This makes probably everything easier,
moreover I put lithium grease everywhere.

I have to check impeller every 200 H because impellers don't live really
longer in my seawaterpump . Default ? Amel checked already body pump
inside but no defaults were found.

I agree that on Yanmar it's harder, and we have no more place to put a
"puller-extractor"

Patrick (Caramel SM#329)

-----Message d'origine-----
De : Graham Boyd [mailto:crwggb@yahoo.co.uk]
Envoyé : lundi 17 janvier 2005 18:28
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator raw water pump impeller
removal



I am having a night-mare time trying to change the raw water impeller
on my 6.5 KW Onan generator. The problem is there is no front access
to the pump due to the large gen-set bolted on to the kubota engine.
So far,round the corner pliars have proved useless and of course
there is absolutely no room to get a "puller" into the space between
the geny and the pump. Before I go to the trouble of removing the
pump from the engine, has anyone any suggestions or a source for
miniature pullers to get the impeller out?

Graham Boyd
SM140 Sula





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal

Patrick Naegels <naegels@...>
 

Hi Gary

I'm interrested in your tool.

Could you contact me on my direct e-mail for details.

Address is naegelsATtvcablenet.be (replace AT by @ - to avoid spam)

Thank you

Patrick (Caramel SM#329)

-----Message d'origine-----
De : amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Envoyé : mardi 18 janvier 2005 9:18
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Onan generator raw water pump impeller
removal



I had similar problems removing my impellers. After skinning my
knuckles and destroying a serviceable impeller I did what I always do
in such situations, I fabricated a tool. I purchased a
small "ViceGrip" brand set of locking pliers, and then I welded two
pieces of 1.5 inch long stainless steel at right angles to the tip of
the pliers. I filed serrations into the "grabbers". It is hard to
describe but I will post a picture here tomorrow. You simply insert
the grabbers onto the impeller adjust the locking mechanism of the
ViceGrips so that they grasp the impeller and then using the handles
of the ViceGrips remove it. This requires only about 2.5 inches of
clearance and works equally well on the Yanmar impeller. It does
absolutely no damage to the impellers and works on various size
impellers. I now remove the impellers every 50 hours of operation to
inspect for missing pieces or wear.

If you wanted me to fabricate one of these items for you I could do
that. It would cost about US $35.00 including purchase of the
ViceGrips and the labor etc. I have loaned these to various fellow
boaters over the last year or two and they have all found them very
handy.

Regards, Gary Silver Liahona # 335






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heaving to etc

Mike Johnson
 

Hi Ian,







Hope all is going well with you. I'm still struggling on with BA for the
last 6 months and then I'm not sure where I will go, just need to get enough
together for a new Amel.







Would you please remind me what the build number of your original Amel was?







Thanks







Mike


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Kirk

Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004 <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hello,

This is all that I have, apart from some fotos.
Hope it can help.

Regards
JL

-----Original Message-----
From: rfc2012 [mailto:rfc000@katamail.com]
Sent: martes, 18 de enero de 2005 11:08
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Kirk



I am the owner of Kirk #97 and very much interested on information
on this boat. Is there any Amel Yacht Owner group member which has
information on the Kirk which is possible to share?

Thank you very much.

Rosario







Yahoo! Groups Links


Amel Kirk

rfc2012 <rfc000@...>
 

I am the owner of Kirk #97 and very much interested on information
on this boat. Is there any Amel Yacht Owner group member which has
information on the Kirk which is possible to share?

Thank you very much.

Rosario


Re: Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

I had similar problems removing my impellers. After skinning my
knuckles and destroying a serviceable impeller I did what I always do
in such situations, I fabricated a tool. I purchased a
small "ViceGrip" brand set of locking pliers, and then I welded two
pieces of 1.5 inch long stainless steel at right angles to the tip of
the pliers. I filed serrations into the "grabbers". It is hard to
describe but I will post a picture here tomorrow. You simply insert
the grabbers onto the impeller adjust the locking mechanism of the
ViceGrips so that they grasp the impeller and then using the handles
of the ViceGrips remove it. This requires only about 2.5 inches of
clearance and works equally well on the Yanmar impeller. It does
absolutely no damage to the impellers and works on various size
impellers. I now remove the impellers every 50 hours of operation to
inspect for missing pieces or wear.

If you wanted me to fabricate one of these items for you I could do
that. It would cost about US $35.00 including purchase of the
ViceGrips and the labor etc. I have loaned these to various fellow
boaters over the last year or two and they have all found them very
handy.

Regards, Gary Silver Liahona # 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal

Steve Leeds
 

Dear Graham,

Try using two screw drivers, one top and one bottom, to wedge out the impeller. You don't have to get the tips behind it, just dig them into the rubber. Before putting in the new impeller, clean the shaft and coat it with Lanocoat (or plain anhydrous lanolin if you can't get Lanocoat) and the impeller will come out with much less effort next time! It is a bit of a hassle getting the new impeller in from that awkward angle.

Cheers,

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki 121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service
Hollywood, Florida



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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hi Graham,

I know what you mean! I have found it best to remove the entire pump to do
the job. As I am in London and Crusader is in Larnaca, I can only go from
memory.

I do remember that one of the pump attachment bolts is awkward to get at,
but with the right shaped ring spanner, it can be done.

I place this lousy design, as far as maintenance is concerned, on a par to
the horizontal oil filter on the Yanmar!

Good luck.

Ian Shepherd SM 414

-------Original Message-------

From: Graham Boyd
Date: 01/17/05 17:28:32
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal


I am having a night-mare time trying to change the raw water impeller
on my 6.5 KW Onan generator. The problem is there is no front access
to the pump due to the large gen-set bolted on to the kubota engine.
So far,round the corner pliars have proved useless and of course
there is absolutely no room to get a "puller" into the space between
the geny and the pump. Before I go to the trouble of removing the
pump from the engine, has anyone any suggestions or a source for
miniature pullers to get the impeller out?

Graham Boyd
SM140 Sula






Yahoo! Groups Links

To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.6.13 - Release Date: 1/16/2005


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Graham, I had the same proplem, I just bought a new pump and it was an easy job to replace the whole thing. Two bolts is all that holds it on. I now have a rebuilt pump ready to go. My way is a little more expensive, but it sure gives me piece of mind. If you insist on replacing just the impella you really have to take the whole pump off.
John "moondog" sm244
From: "Graham Boyd" <crwggb@yahoo.co.uk>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 17:28:28 -0000


I am having a night-mare time trying to change the raw water impeller
on my 6.5 KW Onan generator. The problem is there is no front access
to the pump due to the large gen-set bolted on to the kubota engine.
So far,round the corner pliars have proved useless and of course
there is absolutely no room to get a "puller" into the space between
the geny and the pump. Before I go to the trouble of removing the
pump from the engine, has anyone any suggestions or a source for
miniature pullers to get the impeller out?

Graham Boyd
SM140 Sula


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Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal

Graham Boyd
 

I am having a night-mare time trying to change the raw water impeller
on my 6.5 KW Onan generator. The problem is there is no front access
to the pump due to the large gen-set bolted on to the kubota engine.
So far,round the corner pliars have proved useless and of course
there is absolutely no room to get a "puller" into the space between
the geny and the pump. Before I go to the trouble of removing the
pump from the engine, has anyone any suggestions or a source for
miniature pullers to get the impeller out?

Graham Boyd
SM140 Sula


Re: RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Apero - Table in the Cockpit

r.zurkirchen
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Patrick Naegels"
<naegels@t...> wrote:
Hi Rudy,

Could you transfer me a good picture of your "mini bar". I would
like to
post it on French Amel User Forum

Thank you

Patrick

-----Message d'origine-----
De : rzurkirchen2003 [mailto:r.zurkirchen@v...]
Envoyé : lundi 17 janvier 2005 17:19
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] Apero - Table in the Cockpit

Hi Patrick, I just have put the pictures in the Albums " Apero
Table"

it is all what I have right now.
By
Rudy

What a wonderful Extra

I was missing on my SM2000 a little place in the cockpit, where
I
could put some cups and bottles, when arrived in the port or for
the ankerdrink. I did not like to use the big table, as the
sitting
is not comfortable. Now I have it !
It is a small wooden plate, set with clips on the top of the
drivers-
seat. Simple but comfortable.
I made the table in such a way, that I can defold it and then get
double size ( approx. 60 x 40 cm ) , as an additional shelf to the
cockpit table. It is very useful to put pans and plates , and
still
having enough place on the cockpit table.
I put some pictures forward, to illustrate this little wonderful
Extra.

Rudy of SAMANTHA SM2000#407






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RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Apero - Table in the Cockpit

Patrick Naegels <naegels@...>
 

Hi Rudy,

Could you transfer me a good picture of your "mini bar". I would like to
post it on French Amel User Forum

Thank you

Patrick

-----Message d'origine-----
De : rzurkirchen2003 [mailto:r.zurkirchen@vtx.ch]
Envoyé : lundi 17 janvier 2005 17:19
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] Apero - Table in the Cockpit



What a wonderful Extra

I was missing on my SM2000 a little place in the cockpit, where I
could put some cups and bottles, when arrived in the port or for
the ankerdrink. I did not like to use the big table, as the sitting
is not comfortable. Now I have it !
It is a small wooden plate, set with clips on the top of the drivers-
seat. Simple but comfortable.
I made the table in such a way, that I can defold it and then get
double size ( approx. 60 x 40 cm ) , as an additional shelf to the
cockpit table. It is very useful to put pans and plates , and still
having enough place on the cockpit table.
I put some pictures forward, to illustrate this little wonderful
Extra.

Rudy of SAMANTHA SM2000#407






_____

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