dolores,
i would love to see a few photos especially the attachment point.
fair winds,
eric
s/v Kimberlite

kimberlt@optonline.net


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, stargazer41amel
<no_reply@y...> wrote:

Yep, I sewed a great canvas door with an oval window in it. I
attached the canvas to the fiberglass at the forward end of the
sliding hatch. I placed a sail batten inside the canvas at the

aft

end of the sliding hatch to hold the fabric up so the sliding

hatch

could also stay open. I also sewed in insulating material (winter
coat lining) to retain my heat & A/C inside the boat. It works
great! And all I have to do is lift the canvas out of the way.

Much

better than constantly sliding opening the hatch and the door a
hundred times a day! I even incorporated a zip-in no-see-um screen
for the days I don't need to worry about heat or A/C being on. If

you

need a pic, let me know!
Delores
s/v Stargazer
41' Sharki

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:

Has anyone figured out a way to close the companionway hatch

without

using the knobs.
when we are at a dock with the air conditioner on. it seems i am
opening and closing these knobs a lot while company comes and

goes.

aqny good ideas?
thanks
eric

Yep, I sewed a great canvas door with an oval window in it. I
attached the canvas to the fiberglass at the forward end of the
sliding hatch. I placed a sail batten inside the canvas at the aft
end of the sliding hatch to hold the fabric up so the sliding hatch
could also stay open. I also sewed in insulating material (winter
coat lining) to retain my heat & A/C inside the boat. It works
great! And all I have to do is lift the canvas out of the way. Much
better than constantly sliding opening the hatch and the door a
hundred times a day! I even incorporated a zip-in no-see-um screen
for the days I don't need to worry about heat or A/C being on. If you
need a pic, let me know!
Delores
s/v Stargazer
41' Sharki

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:

Has anyone figured out a way to close the companionway hatch

without

using the knobs.
when we are at a dock with the air conditioner on. it seems i am
opening and closing these knobs a lot while company comes and goes.
aqny good ideas?
thanks
eric

Has anyone figured out a way to close the companionway hatch without
using the knobs.
when we are at a dock with the air conditioner on. it seems i am
opening and closing these knobs a lot while company comes and goes.
aqny good ideas?
thanks
eric

Stephan, Ian et al
In my expierience we noticed some lateral cracking in
the surface rubber but nothing penetrating to the
fabric plies. In failure the belts simply disintegrate
and you are left with some string, a coating of rubber
dust and a bad smell.
Due to design deficiencies (underestimated need for
power) we were running these engines at wide open
throttle locked against the govenors for weeks at a
time in conditions that could only be labeled extreme
35C to -40C extremely dusty. The gensets were
contracted and the contractor ran a rigorous
maintenance programm including weekly inspections by
factory trained mechanics. We did not expect these
failures nor were they anticipated by the contractor.
I have no complaints about these motors though. As you
can see from the above description we had
unintentionally fallen into a torture test not
imagined by the contrator, manufacturer or ourselves.
After repairs and in 1 case replacement these motors
continue to serve but now in thier intended backup
capacity.
I do not feel that any amount of inspection short of
that by someone with massive amounts of equipment and
expierience would detect a failure in progress. This
is why I reccomend rigorously adhereing to the
manufacturers schedule of maintenance (they have the
time and equipment to do the testing/failure analasys)
By the way volkswagon diesels have exhibited the exact
same failure only with less damage (7 of 8 valves
bent) possibly Herr Diesel smiling on us. I believe
this to be a sudden onset failure which wont be caught
by routine inspections unless you get lucky.
On to injector pumps. These pumps are extremly
sensitive and should not be worked on outside of a
pump shop. The tolerences in these devices are in
millionths of an inch and they require special
handling. Pump Timing: in a diesel engine the pump is
timed the way a distributor is in a gasoline engine.
In some cases the Cam belt also runs the pump. in
order to ensure correct pump timing there will be a
procedure outlined in the maintenace manual to
reestablish this timing. Other than correctly setting
the timing when you reinstall the belt there is no
maintenace that can be performed on a pump on the
boat. Incorect timing in a diesel normal results in an
engine that simply will not run, however if you get
the timing off by 180 degrees some diesels will
happily run backwards. Detroit deisels are famous for
this among other things (runaways, wet stacks,
excessive blow by, rack adjustments etc) and Detroit
uses this technique (along with some rotationally
specific parts) to make left and right hand engines
for dual marine mountings.
Stephan
I believe from your decription that when you "lined up
the B on the fuel pump with the notch on the cover"
after installing the the timing pins you set the pump
timing. The operation is usually accomplished in such
a manner. On the larger engines the timing is done
with gears and you simply line up witness marks on the
gears (one reason Detroits are famous is that many of
them had both sets of marks on the gears, left and
right hand rotation, so if you were in a hurry of
course murphy stepped right in and you had a truck
with 16 reverse speeds and 4 forward, entertaining but
not very useful).
In summary I would religously follow all engine
manufacturers guidelines on belt replacement and other
services to include the procedures in the service
manual. I would also check for service bulletins from
time to time as they will contain the newest guidance
derived from continued testing and failure analisys.


Jay
--- Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Dear Stephan, What a useful note. I was hoping to
change the belt myself
until I found out the price of the belt tension
guage ( somewhere in the
region of $6-800).Interestingly, my prophet on the
mountain in La R. , M.
Selo, has recently emailed me that 2,000 hours
before a change was OK,
whilst cautioning that an amateur attempt to change
should not be undertaken
lightly.I have noticed a few Volvo trucks on(and
off)the road in Ecuador so
I am now hunting down a knowledgeable Jose to lend
me his tools and ride
shotgun on my very cautious first change
Marine Express Parts recomend 1000 hours, which I
think is in the latest
handbook. They also say that in their experience
unless there is something
wrong with the fuel pump they would not check it
when changing the cam belt.
Ian

From: "Stephan Regulinski" <stephreg@yahoo.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo Turbos
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 17:53:01 -0000

Ian, Joel, Jay, etc.,

My copy of the Instruction Book ("Instruction Book

22 Series", Volvo-

Penta, 1998) page 28 says that the timing gear belt

(also called the

cam belt) should be inspected every 200 hours and

replaced every 2000

hours. This is twice the interval recommended by

Joel.

I have just replaced my belt at 2000 hours and

found no excessive

wear. I would like to know more about Jay's

experience, particularly

the maintenance findings on the last belt

inspection prior to

failure. It would be nice to know whether the 200

hour inspection is

capable of picking up premature belt wear in time

to replace the

belt. I am not surprised that he has to adopt a

more rigorous

maintenance program (he reports belt failure at

just over 1000 hours)

given he is operating under more extreme

conditions. The question is

whether this program is necessary for the rest of

us. A timing belt

change is neither cheap or fast.

For those interested in doing this job yourself,

you will need a new

belt ($40 in Gibraltar), a workshop manual or copy

of the relevant

pages, a belt tension guage, two locator pins and

two locator bolts.

I was able to borrow all of the above from a

cooperative Volvo shop.

The were made more cooperative by the fact that I

had just spent a

large sum of money repairing the rigging and we

were arguing about

the bill. I agreed to pay the bill in full and the

shop manager

agreed to loan me the manual, the tools, and a chat

with his Volvo

mechanic. Now we both think that the other is a

perfect gentleman.

The job took me five hours and would take an

experienced mechanic

half that (assuming an Amel were engine access is

good). Here are a

few hints:

(1) Have handy: a full set of sockets including

two wrenches, a

31/32 socket, a strap wrench to hold the water-pump

pulley while

loosening and tightening screws, and a crow bar or

equivalent to help

tighten alternator belts. An assistant wouldn't

hurt to hand tools

and read the manual.

(2) After removing the alternator belts and the

water-pump pulley,

the timing-belt cover can be removed with gentle

twisting.

(3) The maintenance manual calls for removing the

starter motor and

inserting an anti-rotation tool. My mechanic

advised me that this

was not necessary. I did not find it necessary.

(4) Fitting the timing pins into the camshaft and

into the flywheel

is a little tricky. Use a socket wrench with 31/32

socket to turn

the drive shaft, and listen for a little "click" on

the pin in the

camshaft hole. It took me six or seven revolutions

to convince

myself I had found it. Then kneel beside the

engine (next to the

genset) and hold the pin in the flywheel hole.

Wiggle the drive

shaft and see if the flywheel pin sets. It will do

so firmly and

fully. If not, rotate the drive shaft one half

turn (the camshaft

will turn one full turn) and the pin should set.

Beware of setting

the flywheel pin in a place where the camshaft pin

is not set. I

think there is a second hole, but couldn't swear to

it.

(5) Set the two bolts in the pulley of the fuel

injection pump. All

is well if the "B" on this pulley lines up with the

notch in the

housing.

(6) The manual says to remove the belt tensioner

pulley and the

idler pulley. I did and found that I had to put

them back before I

could get the new belt on. My mechanic later said

that he doesn't

remove them at all. However, check the bearing on

the idler pulley.

I am told that it can seize and that early evidence

is a failure to

turn smoothly.

(7) Replace the belt. Cut the old belt in two so

that it cannot be

reused and dispose.

(8) When tensioning the belt. My mechanic

suggested rotating the

tensioner pulley (actually it is a cam)

counter-clockwise to tension

so that the belt, which rotates clockwise, pulls

the pulley into

itself thereby increasing tension.

(9) My mechanic advised that he did not adjusted

the timing of the

fuel pump as part of a belt replacement, despite

this being a step in

the maintenance procedure. I did not attempt this

operation.

(9) Follow the manual in all other circumstances.

(10) Finally, before starting the engine, remember

that prayer is an

important part of any good maintenance program.

Stephan G. Regulinski
Delos (SMM #303)


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F.

Potter"

<jfpottercys@a...> wrote:

Hello Ian,

Joel Potter here. The turbo boost pop-off valve

really needs A LOT

of

requested power to function. To check:

1. Go about 3-4 KTS in reverse
2. Gently go to neutral, then forward to

idle speed.

3. Wait 3 seconds then wide open throttle

in forward. WIDE

OPEN.

You will see the rod move ever so briefly. The

engine is governed

and you

will never get into the boost limit in cruise

power conditions.

Only when

asking for more than you should, like at

avoiding a crash. Hope

=== message truncated ===


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

That must have been another Bill Reed.


--- stargazer41amel <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Just curious ... I met a Bill Reed in the Panama Canal in 1993.
Might this be you? He was in the Army. If this is you, let me know.
Delores Carter

Ian and Judy,

Good grief! I didn't realize that the belt change tool kit was so
expensive! You may try ofering to "rent" the tools from your local
Volvo mechanic. This could work for both of you. Good luck on your
first change.

By the way, as to the question of 1000 versus 2000 hours, this is
usually settled on two pieces of data. First is the point at which a
significant number of failures begin to occur. When the engine is
first developed, it is estimated based on prior experience with
similar engines plus engineering "judgement". In time, this estimate
is updated using data from the actual engine.

"Significant" in this case is a function of the cost of repairing in
the event of running to failure as compared to the cost of replacing
the belt prior to failure. Since the engine overhaul is likely to
cost on the order of ten times the cost of a belt change,
a "signifcant" number of failures would be anything greater than ten
percent of the belts failing between 1000 and 2000 hours under normal
use.

The second piece of data is the effectiveness of inspection. If
inspections were perfectly effective in identifying belts that will
fail before the next inspection, than you would have no "hard time"
limit on the belt. Instead, you would inspect on the interval and
replace only when the belt failed inspection.

With things that slowly wear out and then catostrophically fail, we
mix the two ideas and inspect through the part of the life where
failure is unlikely and then as the probability of failure increases,
we replace the part and start over.

Stainless steel is a good example of substance that does not yield to
visual inspection. It is hard to observe minute cracks in stainless
and it fails quickly after the formation of small cracks. Belts,
however, seem to be of the other sort. Evidence of belt wear is easy
to observe and failure happens well after the first signs of belt
degradation.

I am inclined to believe that the original maintenance program is
correct. But remember it has two parts: Inspection and
replacement. Inspecting the belt requires that the inspection port
is opened and the belt is rotated through its entire circumference.
You are looking for "teeth wear and damage" and "cracks in the belt
and oil contamination" (from the maintenance manual). Oil degrades
the belt material and causes the fibers in the belt to begin to pull
apart.

Jay, who wrote in earlier (759 and 762) may shed some light on the
question of whether belt inspections are useful if he can tell us
what was observed when his belts were inspected prior to their
failure.

Stephan G. Regulinski


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

Dear Stephan, What a useful note. I was hoping to change the belt

myself

until I found out the price of the belt tension guage ( somewhere

in the

region of $6-800).Interestingly, my prophet on the mountain in La

R. , M.

Selo, has recently emailed me that 2,000 hours before a change was

OK,

whilst cautioning that an amateur attempt to change should not be

undertaken

lightly.I have noticed a few Volvo trucks on(and off)the road in

Ecuador so

I am now hunting down a knowledgeable Jose to lend me his tools and

ride

shotgun on my very cautious first change
Marine Express Parts recomend 1000 hours, which I think is in

the latest

handbook. They also say that in their experience unless there is

something

wrong with the fuel pump they would not check it when changing the

cam belt.

Ian

From: "Stephan Regulinski" <stephreg@y...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo Turbos
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 17:53:01 -0000

Ian, Joel, Jay, etc.,

My copy of the Instruction Book ("Instruction Book 22 Series",

Volvo-

Penta, 1998) page 28 says that the timing gear belt (also called

the

cam belt) should be inspected every 200 hours and replaced every

2000

hours. This is twice the interval recommended by Joel.

I have just replaced my belt at 2000 hours and found no excessive
wear. I would like to know more about Jay's experience,

particularly

the maintenance findings on the last belt inspection prior to
failure. It would be nice to know whether the 200 hour inspection

is

capable of picking up premature belt wear in time to replace the
belt. I am not surprised that he has to adopt a more rigorous
maintenance program (he reports belt failure at just over 1000

hours)

given he is operating under more extreme conditions. The question

is

whether this program is necessary for the rest of us. A timing

belt

change is neither cheap or fast.

For those interested in doing this job yourself, you will need a

new

belt ($40 in Gibraltar), a workshop manual or copy of the relevant
pages, a belt tension guage, two locator pins and two locator

bolts.

I was able to borrow all of the above from a cooperative Volvo

shop.

The were made more cooperative by the fact that I had just spent a
large sum of money repairing the rigging and we were arguing about
the bill. I agreed to pay the bill in full and the shop manager
agreed to loan me the manual, the tools, and a chat with his Volvo
mechanic. Now we both think that the other is a perfect gentleman.

The job took me five hours and would take an experienced mechanic
half that (assuming an Amel were engine access is good). Here are

a

few hints:

(1) Have handy: a full set of sockets including two wrenches, a
31/32 socket, a strap wrench to hold the water-pump pulley while
loosening and tightening screws, and a crow bar or equivalent to

help

tighten alternator belts. An assistant wouldn't hurt to hand tools
and read the manual.

(2) After removing the alternator belts and the water-pump pulley,
the timing-belt cover can be removed with gentle twisting.

(3) The maintenance manual calls for removing the starter motor

and

inserting an anti-rotation tool. My mechanic advised me that this
was not necessary. I did not find it necessary.

(4) Fitting the timing pins into the camshaft and into the

flywheel

is a little tricky. Use a socket wrench with 31/32 socket to turn
the drive shaft, and listen for a little "click" on the pin in the
camshaft hole. It took me six or seven revolutions to convince
myself I had found it. Then kneel beside the engine (next to the
genset) and hold the pin in the flywheel hole. Wiggle the drive
shaft and see if the flywheel pin sets. It will do so firmly and
fully. If not, rotate the drive shaft one half turn (the camshaft
will turn one full turn) and the pin should set. Beware of setting
the flywheel pin in a place where the camshaft pin is not set. I
think there is a second hole, but couldn't swear to it.

(5) Set the two bolts in the pulley of the fuel injection pump.

All

is well if the "B" on this pulley lines up with the notch in the
housing.

(6) The manual says to remove the belt tensioner pulley and the
idler pulley. I did and found that I had to put them back before I
could get the new belt on. My mechanic later said that he doesn't
remove them at all. However, check the bearing on the idler

pulley.

I am told that it can seize and that early evidence is a failure to
turn smoothly.

(7) Replace the belt. Cut the old belt in two so that it cannot

be

reused and dispose.

(8) When tensioning the belt. My mechanic suggested rotating the
tensioner pulley (actually it is a cam) counter-clockwise to

tension

so that the belt, which rotates clockwise, pulls the pulley into
itself thereby increasing tension.

(9) My mechanic advised that he did not adjusted the timing of the
fuel pump as part of a belt replacement, despite this being a step

in

the maintenance procedure. I did not attempt this operation.

(9) Follow the manual in all other circumstances.

(10) Finally, before starting the engine, remember that prayer is

an

important part of any good maintenance program.

Stephan G. Regulinski
Delos (SMM #303)


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@a...> wrote:

Hello Ian,

Joel Potter here. The turbo boost pop-off valve really needs A

LOT

of

requested power to function. To check:

1. Go about 3-4 KTS in reverse
2. Gently go to neutral, then forward to idle speed.
3. Wait 3 seconds then wide open throttle in forward. WIDE

OPEN.

You will see the rod move ever so briefly. The engine is

governed

and you

will never get into the boost limit in cruise power conditions.

Only when

asking for more than you should, like at avoiding a crash. Hope

this helps.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter, Hull #400

P.S. Change your cam belt every 1000 hours. Trust me, this is

important.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins [mailto:ianjudyjenkins@h...]
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 1:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo Turbos




I have SM 302 with the Volvo/Perkins TMD22p. No complaints

after

800

hours,
other than replacing the key switch and the engine hour meter

and

rev

counter, both at crazy Volvo prices.Power output is fine and I

take care

to
open up the revs every few hours to ensure the Turbo is

properly

exercised.
When the revs are high and the turbo is really being used

there

is a

pressure control valve that opens up if the turbo pressure

gets

too

high.As
I understand it the rod attached to this valve moves back

against

the

resistance of a spring.I have been advised to move this rod

back

manually

from time to time ( with engine switched off) to ensure that

it

is free

moving and it has always been free when I have moved it.
However, when I use full revs there is no discernible

movement on

this rod

(
possibly 1/2 mm but it's difficult to guage when the engine is

flat

out).It
has been suggested to me that as Amel govern the output to

60hp

the turbo

pressure doesnt reach the point where the valve opens.( this

wouldn't

prevent the turbo from working ok as mine seems to be)
Has anyone any experience to suggest that the rod should or

should not be

seen to move at full revs, and if it does move is this a

momentary and

occasional movement or should the the valve be seen to stay

open

above

certain revs?
Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________

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_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail messages direct to your mobile phone

http://www.msn.co.uk/msnmobile

My name is Bill Reed and I am taking delivery of my Amel on December
15th in La Rochelle. I am sailing it to Guadaloupe and then on to
the states. I am in the process of preparing my packing list and
would appreciate any advice from those that have taken delivery in
La Rochelle and made the crossing. Specifically, I would be
interested in a packing list that breaks down what was procured
prior to departure for France and what was procured in La Rochelle.
Would appreciate any comments on the merits of U.S. documentation
vs. foreign documentation.

Thanks

Bill Reed
Amel SM 2000 "Gallatea"

Dear Stephan, What a useful note. I was hoping to change the belt myself until I found out the price of the belt tension guage ( somewhere in the region of $6-800).Interestingly, my prophet on the mountain in La R. , M. Selo, has recently emailed me that 2,000 hours before a change was OK, whilst cautioning that an amateur attempt to change should not be undertaken lightly.I have noticed a few Volvo trucks on(and off)the road in Ecuador so I am now hunting down a knowledgeable Jose to lend me his tools and ride shotgun on my very cautious first change
Marine Express Parts recomend 1000 hours, which I think is in the latest handbook. They also say that in their experience unless there is something wrong with the fuel pump they would not check it when changing the cam belt. Ian

From: "Stephan Regulinski" <stephreg@yahoo.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo Turbos
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 17:53:01 -0000

Ian, Joel, Jay, etc.,

My copy of the Instruction Book ("Instruction Book 22 Series", Volvo-
Penta, 1998) page 28 says that the timing gear belt (also called the
cam belt) should be inspected every 200 hours and replaced every 2000
hours. This is twice the interval recommended by Joel.

I have just replaced my belt at 2000 hours and found no excessive
wear. I would like to know more about Jay's experience, particularly
the maintenance findings on the last belt inspection prior to
failure. It would be nice to know whether the 200 hour inspection is
capable of picking up premature belt wear in time to replace the
belt. I am not surprised that he has to adopt a more rigorous
maintenance program (he reports belt failure at just over 1000 hours)
given he is operating under more extreme conditions. The question is
whether this program is necessary for the rest of us. A timing belt
change is neither cheap or fast.

For those interested in doing this job yourself, you will need a new
belt ($40 in Gibraltar), a workshop manual or copy of the relevant
pages, a belt tension guage, two locator pins and two locator bolts.
I was able to borrow all of the above from a cooperative Volvo shop.
The were made more cooperative by the fact that I had just spent a
large sum of money repairing the rigging and we were arguing about
the bill. I agreed to pay the bill in full and the shop manager
agreed to loan me the manual, the tools, and a chat with his Volvo
mechanic. Now we both think that the other is a perfect gentleman.

The job took me five hours and would take an experienced mechanic
half that (assuming an Amel were engine access is good). Here are a
few hints:

(1) Have handy: a full set of sockets including two wrenches, a
31/32 socket, a strap wrench to hold the water-pump pulley while
loosening and tightening screws, and a crow bar or equivalent to help
tighten alternator belts. An assistant wouldn't hurt to hand tools
and read the manual.

(2) After removing the alternator belts and the water-pump pulley,
the timing-belt cover can be removed with gentle twisting.

(3) The maintenance manual calls for removing the starter motor and
inserting an anti-rotation tool. My mechanic advised me that this
was not necessary. I did not find it necessary.

(4) Fitting the timing pins into the camshaft and into the flywheel
is a little tricky. Use a socket wrench with 31/32 socket to turn
the drive shaft, and listen for a little "click" on the pin in the
camshaft hole. It took me six or seven revolutions to convince
myself I had found it. Then kneel beside the engine (next to the
genset) and hold the pin in the flywheel hole. Wiggle the drive
shaft and see if the flywheel pin sets. It will do so firmly and
fully. If not, rotate the drive shaft one half turn (the camshaft
will turn one full turn) and the pin should set. Beware of setting
the flywheel pin in a place where the camshaft pin is not set. I
think there is a second hole, but couldn't swear to it.

(5) Set the two bolts in the pulley of the fuel injection pump. All
is well if the "B" on this pulley lines up with the notch in the
housing.

(6) The manual says to remove the belt tensioner pulley and the
idler pulley. I did and found that I had to put them back before I
could get the new belt on. My mechanic later said that he doesn't
remove them at all. However, check the bearing on the idler pulley.
I am told that it can seize and that early evidence is a failure to
turn smoothly.

(7) Replace the belt. Cut the old belt in two so that it cannot be
reused and dispose.

(8) When tensioning the belt. My mechanic suggested rotating the
tensioner pulley (actually it is a cam) counter-clockwise to tension
so that the belt, which rotates clockwise, pulls the pulley into
itself thereby increasing tension.

(9) My mechanic advised that he did not adjusted the timing of the
fuel pump as part of a belt replacement, despite this being a step in
the maintenance procedure. I did not attempt this operation.

(9) Follow the manual in all other circumstances.

(10) Finally, before starting the engine, remember that prayer is an
important part of any good maintenance program.

Stephan G. Regulinski
Delos (SMM #303)


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@a...> wrote:

Hello Ian,

Joel Potter here. The turbo boost pop-off valve really needs A LOT

of

requested power to function. To check:

1. Go about 3-4 KTS in reverse
2. Gently go to neutral, then forward to idle speed.
3. Wait 3 seconds then wide open throttle in forward. WIDE

OPEN.

You will see the rod move ever so briefly. The engine is governed

and you

will never get into the boost limit in cruise power conditions.

Only when

asking for more than you should, like at avoiding a crash. Hope

this helps.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter, Hull #400

P.S. Change your cam belt every 1000 hours. Trust me, this is

important.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins [mailto:ianjudyjenkins@h...]
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 1:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo Turbos




I have SM 302 with the Volvo/Perkins TMD22p. No complaints after

800

hours,
other than replacing the key switch and the engine hour meter and

rev

counter, both at crazy Volvo prices.Power output is fine and I

take care

to
open up the revs every few hours to ensure the Turbo is properly
exercised.
When the revs are high and the turbo is really being used there

is a

pressure control valve that opens up if the turbo pressure gets

too

high.As
I understand it the rod attached to this valve moves back against

the

resistance of a spring.I have been advised to move this rod back

manually

from time to time ( with engine switched off) to ensure that it

is free

moving and it has always been free when I have moved it.
However, when I use full revs there is no discernible movement on

this rod

(
possibly 1/2 mm but it's difficult to guage when the engine is

flat

out).It
has been suggested to me that as Amel govern the output to 60hp

the turbo

pressure doesnt reach the point where the valve opens.( this

wouldn't

prevent the turbo from working ok as mine seems to be)
Has anyone any experience to suggest that the rod should or

should not be

seen to move at full revs, and if it does move is this a

momentary and

occasional movement or should the the valve be seen to stay open

above

certain revs?
Ian Jenkins

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Ian, Joel, Jay, etc.,

My copy of the Instruction Book ("Instruction Book 22 Series", Volvo-
Penta, 1998) page 28 says that the timing gear belt (also called the
cam belt) should be inspected every 200 hours and replaced every 2000
hours. This is twice the interval recommended by Joel.

I have just replaced my belt at 2000 hours and found no excessive
wear. I would like to know more about Jay's experience, particularly
the maintenance findings on the last belt inspection prior to
failure. It would be nice to know whether the 200 hour inspection is
capable of picking up premature belt wear in time to replace the
belt. I am not surprised that he has to adopt a more rigorous
maintenance program (he reports belt failure at just over 1000 hours)
given he is operating under more extreme conditions. The question is
whether this program is necessary for the rest of us. A timing belt
change is neither cheap or fast.

For those interested in doing this job yourself, you will need a new
belt ($40 in Gibraltar), a workshop manual or copy of the relevant
pages, a belt tension guage, two locator pins and two locator bolts.
I was able to borrow all of the above from a cooperative Volvo shop.
The were made more cooperative by the fact that I had just spent a
large sum of money repairing the rigging and we were arguing about
the bill. I agreed to pay the bill in full and the shop manager
agreed to loan me the manual, the tools, and a chat with his Volvo
mechanic. Now we both think that the other is a perfect gentleman.

The job took me five hours and would take an experienced mechanic
half that (assuming an Amel were engine access is good). Here are a
few hints:

(1) Have handy: a full set of sockets including two wrenches, a
31/32 socket, a strap wrench to hold the water-pump pulley while
loosening and tightening screws, and a crow bar or equivalent to help
tighten alternator belts. An assistant wouldn't hurt to hand tools
and read the manual.

(2) After removing the alternator belts and the water-pump pulley,
the timing-belt cover can be removed with gentle twisting.

(3) The maintenance manual calls for removing the starter motor and
inserting an anti-rotation tool. My mechanic advised me that this
was not necessary. I did not find it necessary.

(4) Fitting the timing pins into the camshaft and into the flywheel
is a little tricky. Use a socket wrench with 31/32 socket to turn
the drive shaft, and listen for a little "click" on the pin in the
camshaft hole. It took me six or seven revolutions to convince
myself I had found it. Then kneel beside the engine (next to the
genset) and hold the pin in the flywheel hole. Wiggle the drive
shaft and see if the flywheel pin sets. It will do so firmly and
fully. If not, rotate the drive shaft one half turn (the camshaft
will turn one full turn) and the pin should set. Beware of setting
the flywheel pin in a place where the camshaft pin is not set. I
think there is a second hole, but couldn't swear to it.

(5) Set the two bolts in the pulley of the fuel injection pump. All
is well if the "B" on this pulley lines up with the notch in the
housing.

(6) The manual says to remove the belt tensioner pulley and the
idler pulley. I did and found that I had to put them back before I
could get the new belt on. My mechanic later said that he doesn't
remove them at all. However, check the bearing on the idler pulley.
I am told that it can seize and that early evidence is a failure to
turn smoothly.

(7) Replace the belt. Cut the old belt in two so that it cannot be
reused and dispose.

(8) When tensioning the belt. My mechanic suggested rotating the
tensioner pulley (actually it is a cam) counter-clockwise to tension
so that the belt, which rotates clockwise, pulls the pulley into
itself thereby increasing tension.

(9) My mechanic advised that he did not adjusted the timing of the
fuel pump as part of a belt replacement, despite this being a step in
the maintenance procedure. I did not attempt this operation.

(9) Follow the manual in all other circumstances.

(10) Finally, before starting the engine, remember that prayer is an
important part of any good maintenance program.

Stephan G. Regulinski
Delos (SMM #303)


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@a...> wrote:

Hello Ian,

Joel Potter here. The turbo boost pop-off valve really needs A LOT

of

requested power to function. To check:

1. Go about 3-4 KTS in reverse
2. Gently go to neutral, then forward to idle speed.
3. Wait 3 seconds then wide open throttle in forward. WIDE

OPEN.

You will see the rod move ever so briefly. The engine is governed

and you

will never get into the boost limit in cruise power conditions.

Only when

asking for more than you should, like at avoiding a crash. Hope

this helps.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter, Hull #400

P.S. Change your cam belt every 1000 hours. Trust me, this is

important.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins [mailto:ianjudyjenkins@h...]
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 1:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo Turbos




I have SM 302 with the Volvo/Perkins TMD22p. No complaints after

800

hours,
other than replacing the key switch and the engine hour meter and

rev

counter, both at crazy Volvo prices.Power output is fine and I

take care

to
open up the revs every few hours to ensure the Turbo is properly
exercised.
When the revs are high and the turbo is really being used there

is a

pressure control valve that opens up if the turbo pressure gets

too

high.As
I understand it the rod attached to this valve moves back against

the

resistance of a spring.I have been advised to move this rod back

manually

from time to time ( with engine switched off) to ensure that it

is free

moving and it has always been free when I have moved it.
However, when I use full revs there is no discernible movement on

this rod

(
possibly 1/2 mm but it's difficult to guage when the engine is

flat

out).It
has been suggested to me that as Amel govern the output to 60hp

the turbo

pressure doesnt reach the point where the valve opens.( this

wouldn't

prevent the turbo from working ok as mine seems to be)
Has anyone any experience to suggest that the rod should or

should not be

seen to move at full revs, and if it does move is this a

momentary and

occasional movement or should the the valve be seen to stay open

above

certain revs?
Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch with absent friends - get MSN Messenger
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger


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ADVERTISEMENT




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Koen,

Thanks. Yes the foam is a bit oily. This info really helps!

Richard

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, koenvelleman <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

Hi Richard,

The water "sensor" in the Zeisse capsule is a simple double wire

with

a screw connector at the end. The foam in the container can get a

bit

oily and wet and the screw connector rusts away. This connector

must

be drifting somewhere under the genset, just try to find it, put a
new screw connector on and things should be OK.
The other main problem with the Zeisse is the sea water pump,

driven

by a small belt wich slips easely. Normaly Farryman puts the pump
directly on the cranckshaft, this works fine.
I also changed the thermostat to an 85°C and changed the cooling

to

fresh water cooling and the Genset runs very smooth now.
Good Luck !
Koen
Flash IV
S/M 17


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "closereach"
<closereach@y...> wrote:

I have a Zeise installed in my Super Maramu. The control panel

has

an indicator light notifying me that there's water in

the 'capsule'.

Does anyone know where or what this 'capsule' is, and how to

remove

the water? The manual is no help to me on this matter!
Thanks
Richard

Hi Robert,

Flash IV is Belgium registred. She is a Super Maramu built in 1990.
I have updated her with all the important changes that Amel has done
trough the years. She has the new propulsing sytem fitted by Amel.
Also fitted by Amel is the new triple groove furling system, new
mainsail and gib furling gearbox and moters. I changed the Autohelm
pilot to a Brookes@Gatehouse pilot. Kept the Autohelm as back-up.
I also updated the electrical charging and battery system to the new
standards. Renewed the ceiling lining, wich was foam backed and came
loose (a major problem with the Amels ) with the new felt backed
stuff)
The Genoa is 3 years old and the main has been renewed this year.
She has full Brookes@Gatehouse instruments with 2 extra repeaters.
Apart from the standard equipment she has an extra small gimballed
watch radar, a 700W full sine-wave 220V converter for the breadmaker,
SSB, davids, musk. screens, inmarsat-C, extra forward looking depth
sounder, electric front toilet, new italian cooking stove with
electric oven, new fridge and water cooled freezer system (no more R-
12 gas), airco in the aft cabin.
She has an alternator fitted to the propeller wich gives all the
needed electricity while cruising even for the breadmaker.
She got a 50l/h watermaker. The genset has been overhauled and fitted
with a fresh water cooling system 3 yrs ago.
I always did an agressive preventive maintenance and all the sytems
are working and are in good condition.
Price: 300.000 Euro




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Vivian, Robert & Aron Lewin"
<lewin@b...> wrote:

Hello... Pls let me have some details ...Age ...equipment Etc.. I

am in

Sydney on 02 93371150
Robert.



On Sunday, September 21, 2003, at 12:26 AM, koenvelleman wrote:

My Super Maramu Flash IV is now for sale
She is on the hardstand in Bundaberg QLD and in perfect condition.

<image.tiff>

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Service.

Has anyone attempted to varnish over or repair the original factory
applied varnish? I understand from the Amel factory that the varnish
is a sprayed 2 part polyurethane finish. It is very hard finish and
has held up well for the 16 year old vessel we have. But there are
areas that need repairing and I am really concerned how difficult it
is to deal with the existing finish. I was able to refinish the
floors, exterior trims and interior steps beautifully but they had a
different varnish finish. Any knowledgable help in this area will be
greatly appreciated. Delores Carter

Hello... Pls let me have some details ...Age ...equipment Etc.. I am in
Sydney on 02 93371150
Robert.



On Sunday, September 21, 2003, at 12:26 AM, koenvelleman wrote:

My Super Maramu Flash IV is now for sale
She is on the hardstand in Bundaberg QLD and in perfect condition.

<image.tiff>

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

My Super Maramu Flash IV is now for sale
She is on the hardstand in Bundaberg QLD and in perfect condition.

Hi Richard,

The water "sensor" in the Zeisse capsule is a simple double wire with
a screw connector at the end. The foam in the container can get a bit
oily and wet and the screw connector rusts away. This connector must
be drifting somewhere under the genset, just try to find it, put a
new screw connector on and things should be OK.
The other main problem with the Zeisse is the sea water pump, driven
by a small belt wich slips easely. Normaly Farryman puts the pump
directly on the cranckshaft, this works fine.
I also changed the thermostat to an 85°C and changed the cooling to
fresh water cooling and the Genset runs very smooth now.
Good Luck !
Koen
Flash IV
S/M 17


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "closereach"
<closereach@y...> wrote:

I have a Zeise installed in my Super Maramu. The control panel has
an indicator light notifying me that there's water in

the 'capsule'.

Does anyone know where or what this 'capsule' is, and how to remove
the water? The manual is no help to me on this matter!
Thanks
Richard

Hi Vito,

I NEVER advocated a loose rig. It's dangerous to have loose rigging on an
AMEL. Most riggers/yards loosen the rigging because most boats are tuned
loose because they flex. Amels are tuned very tight because they don't
flex. You shouldn't have much sag in the headstay and very little, if any,
real slop in the lazy side shourds.

TIGHT IS RIGHT. NEVER LOOSE.

Hope this helps.
Joel SUPER MARAMU MILLENNIUM #400 "MARY BROWN"

Occasionally we arrive before daylight after a long passage. I
asked Amel a few years ago how to "heave to" in the Super Maramu,
and they said to point just slightly off the wind and then run the
engine at low rpm. Is there a better way, without the engine?
Bill on Lady Sadie

Hi Joel,

Does this apply also to the backstays of the mizen mast? Mine was quite
loose and as far as I understand there are screws that prevent the rig to
get loose.

Regards


Dimitris Krassopoulos




Mobile GSM: +306944302318
Email: dkra@almalibre.gr <mailto:dkra@almalibre.gr>
Web: www.almalibre.gr <http://www.almalibre.gr/>