Hi Joel,

Thanks for the feedback. I was at the Southampton boatshow
yesterday and the Amel rep talked of 35deg or even less as being
normal with the La Rochelle demo boat he sails. When I apply your
comments to his claim it now makes sense - an empty boat, new
sails. Darn it I had hopes of going to windward better!!

I think 45deg is the reality for most of us in cruising mode.
I don't believe we have a particularly heavily loaded boat (famous
last words with all that storage maybe I deceive myself?!) and I
have always been very careful to keep weight out of the bows - most
lockers empty or light stuff. That said I have maybe sacrificed
that weight consciousness with 100' extra chain.

My genoa is a brand new Doyle 115% which I had made specifically for
the Caribbean trades. From day one we were still stuck in the 43-
45deg range (fully unfurled). Being technically minded what puzzles
me is how weight effects pointing ability. I had always assumed the
problem was fundementally the wide sheeting angle.

As they always say boats are about compromises and the Amel is a
very very good one. That said I'll be sad to sell Gallant when we
return to the UK, but for sailing around Europe in our variable
winds one needs good windward ability.

Again thanks for your usual precise advice. I will take a hard
look at our weight when we get back aboard and definately have a
campaign to shift things aft. Maybe keeping the water tanks half
empty will also help - 500l water is a lot of weight.

Best regards
David

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@w...> wrote:

Hello David,

Flat water, 34-36 degrees apparent is achievable with

concentration and 40

degrees is easy. 45 degrees can be counted on in all but the worse
wind/wave conditions with an unfurled jib. If your sails are

original, I'll

bet they have deteriorated more than you imagine. Weight plays an

important

part of the equation as most Amels are too front heavy when loaded

for

cruising. Get weight out of the bow. A clean bottom and an

undamaged

leading edge to the keel are obvious further considerations.

My new boat with new sails and relatively empty will go to 33

degrees in

flat water and 38 degrees is easy enough for the pilot to manage

when

steering to the wind instrument. Watch the weight! It's easy to

accumulate

lotsa stuff!

Hope this helps.

Joel F. Potter, Super Maramu Millennium # 400 ( MARY BROWN)

Hello David,

Flat water, 34-36 degrees apparent is achievable with concentration and 40
degrees is easy. 45 degrees can be counted on in all but the worse
wind/wave conditions with an unfurled jib. If your sails are original, I'll
bet they have deteriorated more than you imagine. Weight plays an important
part of the equation as most Amels are too front heavy when loaded for
cruising. Get weight out of the bow. A clean bottom and an undamaged
leading edge to the keel are obvious further considerations.

My new boat with new sails and relatively empty will go to 33 degrees in
flat water and 38 degrees is easy enough for the pilot to manage when
steering to the wind instrument. Watch the weight! It's easy to accumulate
lotsa stuff!

Hope this helps.

Joel F. Potter, Super Maramu Millennium # 400 ( MARY BROWN)

Dear David,
Basically the SM doesn't do well closer than 45 wind
apparent. The sheeting angle is surely a major factor.
It is a hallmark of Amel boats; they are built to
cruise, for the open sea, where sailing close hauled
for any period of time isn't wonderful in any case.
This said, it is an issue, and one can only hope that
in a future boat Amel will improve upwind performance.
I have sometimes wondered if fitting an inboard track
and combining this with a smaller headsail might not
help, but I have concluded that it's more bother than
it's worth.
If you are really adamant about gaining another 5
degrees upwind, I suspect a headsail with a very
modern construction might achieve that. Maybe someone
has tried?
Basically, think in terms of idyllic reaches under the
stars of tropical skies....
Claude Roessiger

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
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http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

Hi All,

How close hauled should a Super Maramu sail? The best I can do is
45deg apparent, which basically means going to windward is very slow
and frustrating. In calm seas I can pinch up to maybe 40deg
sometimes but speed suffers badly and I usually end up with an
accidental tack. Am suspecting (hoping) I have a problem. Having
raced a lot I believe I know how to trim sails and I have a new
genoa.

So is 45deg apprent normal? If not anyone ahve any suggestions as to
my problem?

Regards
David
Gallant of Fowey

I have posted a photo of the unit on the PHOTO section of the group.
Please have a look and tell me if you recognize the unit. There is
also a metal label on the back identifying the unit.
Alex Paquin



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:

Hi do you have a picture of the unit that you are looking for?
i might have one.
eric
kimberlt@o...


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alejandro Paquin"
<alex.paquin@u...> wrote:

I'm looking for a 12 volt Control Unit for a NECO 692 autopilot

for

my 1981 Maramu. Does anyone on this list have a discarded unit in
good working condition available for sale?
These units were manufactured in the late 70's through mid 80's.

Hi do you have a picture of the unit that you are looking for?
i might have one.
eric
kimberlt@optonline.net


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alejandro Paquin"
<alex.paquin@u...> wrote:

I'm looking for a 12 volt Control Unit for a NECO 692 autopilot

for

my 1981 Maramu. Does anyone on this list have a discarded unit in
good working condition available for sale?
These units were manufactured in the late 70's through mid 80's.

Dear Ian,
i think the annode is made of magnesium.
fair winds,
eric


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

Hi Ed, I got mine from Amel when I was last in La R. Its a pipe

of zinc

about 12 " long and .75" diameter with a screw attachment at one

end. Ian

From: "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@e...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:36:10 -0000

Hi Ian,
I am seriously contemplating the same task on SM331. Where did you
get your hot water heater anode? Is this something you can pick

up at

West Marine or another special order item?

Ed Steele
DoodleBug

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy

design..why

couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the

outside....the

good news however was that the existing anode was only about

half

used,

after three years and about 18 months aboard.I´ll look again in

2006!Ian

From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the

messiest

job I

have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much

water

as

you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point

a lot

of

water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of

water

that comes out and be able to capture much but not all.

Remove the

element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the

next 2

hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is

that your

heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three

years

old

I am

about to replace the anode. The instructions that came

with the

boat are

actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that

the

anode

be

changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary

to

change so

often unless we had been using shore power all the time,

which

we

havent

been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the

fresh

water

from the

tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that

you

can

move the

tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base

whereupon

all will

be revealed, and that then it´s just a matter of undoing a

nut
in

the bottom

of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and

replacing

the

new one.(

I´m assuming that I will find that the anode has its own

access

hole into

the tank and that it´s not , for instance, part of the

heater

element

fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and

knows of

any

problems

or tips that you should look out for, I should be

interested to

hear.

Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________

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Messenger

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Hi Ed, I got mine from Amel when I was last in La R. Its a pipe of zinc about 12 " long and .75" diameter with a screw attachment at one end. Ian

From: "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:36:10 -0000

Hi Ian,
I am seriously contemplating the same task on SM331. Where did you
get your hot water heater anode? Is this something you can pick up at
West Marine or another special order item?

Ed Steele
DoodleBug

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy

design..why

couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the

outside....the

good news however was that the existing anode was only about half

used,

after three years and about 18 months aboard.Ill look again in

2006!Ian

From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest

job I

have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water

as

you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot

of

water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years

old

I am

about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the

boat are

actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the

anode

be

changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to

change so

often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which

we

havent

been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh

water

from the

tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you

can

move the

tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base

whereupon

all will

be revealed, and that then its just a matter of undoing a

nut
in

the bottom

of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing

the

new one.(

Im assuming that I will find that the anode has its own

access

hole into

the tank and that its not , for instance, part of the heater

element

fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of

any

problems

or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to

hear.

Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________

Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger

today!

http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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_________________________________________________________________
Sign-up for a FREE BT Broadband connection today!
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

_________________________________________________________________
Get Hotmail on your mobile phone http://www.msn.co.uk/msnmobile

I'm looking for a 12 volt Control Unit for a NECO 692 autopilot for
my 1981 Maramu. Does anyone on this list have a discarded unit in
good working condition available for sale?
These units were manufactured in the late 70's through mid 80's.

Hi Ian,
I am seriously contemplating the same task on SM331. Where did you
get your hot water heater anode? Is this something you can pick up at
West Marine or another special order item?

Ed Steele
DoodleBug

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy

design..why

couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the

outside....the

good news however was that the existing anode was only about half

used,

after three years and about 18 months aboard.I´ll look again in

2006!Ian

From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest

job I

have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water

as

you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot

of

water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years

old

I am

about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the

boat are

actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the

anode

be

changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to

change so

often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which

we

havent

been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh

water

from the

tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you

can

move the

tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base

whereupon

all will

be revealed, and that then it´s just a matter of undoing a

nut
in

the bottom

of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing

the

new one.(

I´m assuming that I will find that the anode has its own

access

hole into

the tank and that it´s not , for instance, part of the heater

element

fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of

any

problems

or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to

hear.

Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________

Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger

today!

http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

_________________________________________________________________
Sign-up for a FREE BT Broadband connection today!
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy design..why couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the outside....the good news however was that the existing anode was only about half used, after three years and about 18 months aboard.Ill look again in 2006!Ian

From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest job I
have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water as
you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot of
water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years old

I am

about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the

boat are

actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the anode

be

changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to

change so

often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which we

havent

been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh water

from the

tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you can

move the

tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base whereupon

all will

be revealed, and that then its just a matter of undoing a nut in

the bottom

of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing the

new one.(

Im assuming that I will find that the anode has its own access

hole into

the tank and that its not , for instance, part of the heater

element

fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of any

problems

or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to

hear.

Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger

today!

http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

_________________________________________________________________
Sign-up for a FREE BT Broadband connection today! http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

Hello Ian,

It's my 50th Birthday and I'm assisting my mid life crisis by improving my
open wheel racing skills, what fun! I'm up at ROAD AMERICA in Wisconsin
for some formula car racing school at my favorite track.

The BEST Volvo diesel mechanic I have ever had experience has moved North
from Ft. Lauderdale to the Palm Beach area. He is KLAUSE of KLAUSE MARINE.
His phone # is 1 (561) 383-5055. He is as strident and opinionated as I am
which may rub some the wrong way but he knows what he is doing. If he can't
fix it...cant be fixed.

The local guy in Fort Lauderdale is John O'Hara of O'Hara Marine, 1 (954)
765-1960. I have not had occasion to try him yet.

Hope this helps.
All the best,
Joel F. Potter - Super Maramu #400

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest job I
have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water as
you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot of
water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years old

I am

about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the

boat are

actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the anode

be

changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to

change so

often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which we

havent

been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh water

from the

tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you can

move the

tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base whereupon

all will

be revealed, and that then it´s just a matter of undoing a nut in

the bottom

of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing the

new one.(

I´m assuming that I will find that the anode has its own access

hole into

the tank and that it´s not , for instance, part of the heater

element

fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of any

problems

or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to

hear.

Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger

today!

http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years old I am about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the boat are actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the anode be changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to change so often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which we havent been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh water from the tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you can move the tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base whereupon all will be revealed, and that then its just a matter of undoing a nut in the bottom of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing the new one.( Im assuming that I will find that the anode has its own access hole into the tank and that its not , for instance, part of the heater element fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of any problems or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to hear.
Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger today! http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

Dear Bill, Marty and Joel,
Thanks for all your replies. Im in Ecuador looking to get some spares shipped out ( theyve not heard of Volvo here) and between you I think Ive got all the info I need.
Happy birthday Joel! Life is about to begin! Best regards, Ian

_________________________________________________________________
Sign-up for a FREE BT Broadband connection today! http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

Dear Bob, We have SM#160, and our stripes faded, etc. At the
suggestion of friends, Glen and Julie Bradley on SM C'est Assez, we
painted our stripes. We love it as do all who have seen it: our boat
looks new.

The job looks bigger than it is. First we tried "free hand painting
as Julie and Glen did. But we were not steady enough and were not
getting a finished result we liked. We tried taping and doing free
hand again. The deck is not smooth and taping does not stop the
bleeding into the light brown. Again the end result was not good.
Finally we found the paint striper Joel referred to via the internet
from J.C. Whitney, auto parts wholesaler. Our striper was the one
they had at 1/16 of an inch. I now know that there are other sizes
but I do not know where to get them. The 1/16 inch worked fine you
must just go back and forth several times to fill in the whole
groove. The stiper cost about $10 and about the same to mail it to
us.

Instead of the two part polyurethane paint, we used one part. In
discussions with the paint experts we expect this to last around 10
years. It is now 1 year old and looks like new. We painted our
stripes black. Talking to another SM owner who saw our decks, he has
found (or had made a dark brown). It is not a standard color that is
available in the quantity (qt) we wanted. And we think the black
truly makes our decks look like teak. We poured the paint into a
plastic squeeze bottle so I could readily refill the striper as I
painted. Paint etc. cost us about $40.

Now for the work effort. My husband, Ralph, preped sections of the
deck for my painting(about 1 hr. each day I painted). This consisted
of washing, lightly sanding the grooves (he used an edge (pink pearl
eraser) the size of the grooves and then wiping with a sovent to
again clean grooves. These instructions as per the polyurethane can.
I then painted with the striper and used the solvent on a rag around
my finger to take off any stray paint. I also used a fine brush at
times for corners, bends, etc. I was on my hands and knees while
painting and a good knee pad is essential. It took me 9 days to do
the entire deck and I worked no more than 4 hrs a day. I got better
as I went and I waited until we had reasonable weather, not too much
heat. It took another 5 or 6 days to do the cockpit. About 50 hours
in total. The end result is well worth it. By the way, you will be
amazed at the different look (lighter) of the "teak" boards with the
increased contrast.

Good striping!!

Ann and Ralph on SM#160 Harmonie



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rossirossix4"
<equinoxsolstice@h...> wrote:

Does anyone have any good techniques for darkening the faded dark
grooves in the faux teak decks. I'm OK with the faded "teak"
boards, but want to darken the gooves which have faded and
disappeared in places.

Bob Rossi, Santorin "Hanalei"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:

Can anyone send me the email address of a good Volvo agent in

Florida--

maybe the one who Joel Potter uses--he is away until 12 Sept.

Thanks. Ian

Jenkins SM 302

I had great success with getting Volvo and Onan parts by mail from
J.D.Neeson at Marine Parts Express. He went to great effort for an
initially very small order. Phone number is toll-free 877-621-2628
and the e-mail is inquiry@marinepartsexpress.com
Bill on Lady Sadie

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of 56k? Get a FREE BT Broadband connection
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

I have a Zeise installed in my Super Maramu. The control panel has
an indicator light notifying me that there's water in the 'capsule'.
Does anyone know where or what this 'capsule' is, and how to remove
the water? The manual is no help to me on this matter!
Thanks
Richard

Can anyone send me the email address of a good Volvo agent in Florida--
maybe the one who Joel Potter uses--he is away until 12 Sept. Thanks. Ian Jenkins SM 302

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of 56k? Get a FREE BT Broadband connection http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband

Joel,
how are the new stainless rub rails fitted to the new red stripe
amels?
can these be retrofitted to Kimberlite?
thanks
eric

please say hi to vela.