Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SULAJON SM #347 ENGINE WON'T RESTART WHEN HOT

svmalaika@...
 

I had a similar problem on MALAIKA II (SM #336) and it turned out to be a
defective "grounding" selenoid. As you may know, AMEL installs a second selenoid
that opens the engine grounding circuit when the engine is off so it is
completely electrically isolated. I replaced that selenoid and have not had a
problem since.

Charlie
MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Onan Generator smoking badly

svmalaika@...
 

With diesel engines black smoke means a rich mixture which is usually due to
restricted air flow (check and clean air intake). Blue/white smoke means a
lean mixture which is often due to restricted fuel flow (check & clean filters,
pump, etc.). Injectors may be the problem, but if the engine is running fairly
smoothly I'd check other causes first.

Charlie
MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN


SM Onan Generator smoking badly

Graham Boyd
 

The Onan on my SM is smoking badly when under load. Before I remove the
injecters for cleaning and servicing, has anyone else had this problem
and are there any hidden snags or good to know techniques in the
removal process(the onan instruction book gives no guidance)? Did
cleaning the injecters stop the smoke? My geny has 1600 hours on it and
the injecters don't look as though they have been removed before. I
look forward your comments, as it's still cold in Scotland at this time
of year and I need the fan heaters to work without fumigating those
anchored down wind!

Graham Boyd


Super Maramu for sale

PFM53 <pfm53@...>
 

Hi Joel,

We have a 1995 Super Maramu that we would like to put on the market. We
needed to know how you handle this. Please get in touch with us and let us
know what you need. We can bring her to Ft. Lauderdale, she is currently in
Trinidad.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Catherine Trimm


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Euros 41 happy new owner

Eduardo Conde <corposervices@...>
 

Estimado José Luis:
Tambien soy propietario desde hace 5 años de un Amel Euros 41, resido en Venezuela y durante estos ultimos años he venido restaurando y mejorando algunos aspectos de mi viejo y noble barco.
Me pongo a tu disposición para interncambiar información.

Saludos Cordiales
Eduardo Conde
M/v Samadhi

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@motorola.com> wrote:

Hello,

I have bought a month ago an Amel Euros 41 hull nr 212.
I am refitting it and I already have taken it to sea in Almeria, near
Gibraltar Strait.

Glad to hear from other Amel owners.
JL





---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



---------------------------------



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


"THE CAPTAIN"

amelforme
 

Dear Amel Owners,



I regret to inform you that Henri Amel, "THE CAPTAIN" to all of us
associated with Chantiers Amel passed away on Tuesday April 12 just 4 days
shy of his birthday.

Captain Amel would have been 92 years old tomorrow.



I was at the Shipyard in La Rochelle when he passed. The flags were dropped
to half staff, the workers were informed, and everyone paused to consider
the greatness of this man who was, truly, larger than life itself. Those of
you who knew him will fully understand that. Those of you who never had the
pleasure of meeting the Captain, let me just say that he was an extremely
strong willed person who continually made lemonade from all the lemons
tossed in his path throughout his life. He turned his blindness into a
vision that we all reap the rewards from today in the Amel boats we enjoy.
He butted heads with bureaucrats and naysayers who would have denied him the
beginnings of what is now Chantiers Amel.



Alternately (and some would say in equal measure) loved and feared by those
who worked for him, we are all united in our deep respect for the man and
all he created. We will miss his truly unique presence and his powerful
character.



God speed, Captain.



Joel F. Potter,

SM 400 "MARY BROWN"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Ballooner

Krassopoulos Dimitris <dkra@...>
 

Dear All,

I have recently purchased from Gateff an Assymetric Spi ( 140 sqr.m) for
Alma Libre. It works very well below the 90 apparent.
It totally changed the sailing performance of the boat. You can find details
in my web page www.almalibre.gr <http://www.almalibre.gr> .
I recommend it to all SM owners who want to increase the sail use in low
wind conditions going downwind( from 90-120) . The only problem you need
more crew if the wind conditions are not very calm and steady but it is fun.

Regards

Dimitris


_____

From: kimberlite [mailto:kimberlite@optonline.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 7:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Ballooner


Vito,

Nice to hear from you!!

Make sure you have some spare rivets for the pole ends.

If you dip the pole, the end might come off and need to be riveted.

I find the down wind rig works best from about 160 degrees to dead astern.

I keep it up to about 15-20 knots apparent then furl. I find that my
gennaker gets a lot more use and is quicker to set up.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite



_____

From: asm283 [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 1:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Balloner




Hello Everyone.

In the next few weeks I will be starting a hopefully long downwind
run from Guadaloupe to the South Pacific via the Panama Canal.

I have a few questions on the use of the double pole system and the
balloner.

I have set the system up but never did any significant milage.

1- When do you start to reef and what is the proper procedure?

2- What wind angles are best?

3- Do you adjust the poles to be perpendicular to the wind or do you
leave the poles straight out?

4- What wind speed so you take the sytem down?

5- What sail combinations work best?

6-Would you use the mizzen staysail as well?

7- Any other suggestons would be helpfull.

Joel you are welcome to weigh in on this.

Thank you


Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
ASM#283








_____

Yahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/>

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> >
Terms of Service.







_____

Yahoo! Groups Links


* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/>


* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>


* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Ballooner

eric freedman
 

Vito,

Nice to hear from you!!

Make sure you have some spare rivets for the pole ends.

If you dip the pole, the end might come off and need to be riveted.

I find the down wind rig works best from about 160 degrees to dead astern.

I keep it up to about 15-20 knots apparent then furl. I find that my
gennaker gets a lot more use and is quicker to set up.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite



_____

From: asm283 [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 1:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Balloner




Hello Everyone.

In the next few weeks I will be starting a hopefully long downwind
run from Guadaloupe to the South Pacific via the Panama Canal.

I have a few questions on the use of the double pole system and the
balloner.

I have set the system up but never did any significant milage.

1- When do you start to reef and what is the proper procedure?

2- What wind angles are best?

3- Do you adjust the poles to be perpendicular to the wind or do you
leave the poles straight out?

4- What wind speed so you take the sytem down?

5- What sail combinations work best?

6-Would you use the mizzen staysail as well?

7- Any other suggestons would be helpfull.

Joel you are welcome to weigh in on this.

Thank you


Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
ASM#283








_____

Yahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Balloner

tom mcguffy <tmcguffy@...>
 

Dear Vito,
I just completed a transatlantic from Portugal to Trinidad and from there all the way up to Houston so I used the poles quite a bit.
1. I would begin to think about reefing when the wind reaches 15K apparent. I have had them up in 20K apparent.
2. Wind angle 150 to 150 apparent
3. Always leave the poles perpendicular
4. Same as 1.
5. I usually have the jib on the windward side and the ballooner on leeward side
6. If you use the staysail it will interfear with one of the downwind sails. I have used the ballooner w/o the pole and the staysail when the wind was further forward than 150.
7. I have modified my downwind system. I have a sock on the ballooner and always freefly it which makes hoisting and takedowns much easier. I have both starboard and port spinnaker halyards.
Hope this helps.
Tom McGuffy, SV Tempest

From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Balloner
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 17:48:02 -0000


Hello Everyone.

In the next few weeks I will be starting a hopefully long downwind
run from Guadaloupe to the South Pacific via the Panama Canal.

I have a few questions on the use of the double pole system and the
balloner.

I have set the system up but never did any significant milage.

1- When do you start to reef and what is the proper procedure?

2- What wind angles are best?

3- Do you adjust the poles to be perpendicular to the wind or do you
leave the poles straight out?

4- What wind speed so you take the sytem down?

5- What sail combinations work best?

6-Would you use the mizzen staysail as well?

7- Any other suggestons would be helpfull.

Joel you are welcome to weigh in on this.

Thank you


Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
ASM#283





Downwind sailind with Balloner

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Everyone.

In the next few weeks I will be starting a hopefully long downwind
run from Guadaloupe to the South Pacific via the Panama Canal.

I have a few questions on the use of the double pole system and the
balloner.

I have set the system up but never did any significant milage.

1- When do you start to reef and what is the proper procedure?

2- What wind angles are best?

3- Do you adjust the poles to be perpendicular to the wind or do you
leave the poles straight out?

4- What wind speed so you take the sytem down?

5- What sail combinations work best?

6-Would you use the mizzen staysail as well?

7- Any other suggestons would be helpfull.

Joel you are welcome to weigh in on this.

Thank you


Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
ASM#283


Sagging Roof Liners

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

So, having read in the past of various older SM's having the roof
liner fall down, I find that Minaxi's did just that during the Winter
layover.
Joel's notes about how to scrape of all the toxic stuff really put me
off, so I went for the second option. I can really say this was far
easier and suggest anyone who has same problem should do same.
I bought a piece of Mahogany and cut strips 2" x 1/2" to fit all the
areas. After 3 coats of varnish they look just like the Amel strips.
It takes 2 people to put them up, one to hold and one to screw. It is
a lot easier on the areas that had not peeled away altogether, so do
it soon if you have to.
I have posted a picture showing one of the 3 cabins done. It looks as
if it was always like that.
Bob


Re: hull sanding

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

I include my conversation with Joachim for the benefit of all.

Hello Jose_Luis,

regarding the deck there are different ideas to consider. My final
decision was:

I am going to put the anti-slip material treadmaster
(http://www.tiflex.co.uk/marine/marine.html) on the side walks but
not on the cabin roofs. This was mainly due to optical reasons. The
website has also a spanish version.



The pictures are taken from KIRK # 233 which is owned by my best
friend. He put the treadmaster on in 1989. Pictures where taken this
year.

I did grind the original anti slip approximately 2/3 down. These
areas will be painted and an anti slip additive ( sand ! ) will be
added to the first layer of 2 component paint. The 2nd layer of
paint will partly cover the sand, that takes out the "bite of the
sand" when you sit on it.. On www.yachtpaint.com you will find a lot
of information probably also in Spanish. VC 17 is a antifouling
paint which creates a very thin layer of paint and dries in a very
short time.

I completed the first sanding with 60 grid last wekend and will do a
final sanding with 180 grid to all the original anti slip areas. The
other areas wil get a final sanding with 320 grid. Right now the
temperatures are on their way down in northern Germany so it will
take probably another 4 weeks before we get proper outside
conditions.

In case you have any question please let me - or the forum- know. I
own own my KIRK now for 2 years but my best friend owns # 233 now
for 18 years so we have a pretty good knowledge about the older AMEL
boats.

Next whe will have to replace the old wall coverings hanging down
from the roof also a favorite AMEL item for a replacement.

Enjoy your new boat, the boats might not be good looking but
usability is very high.

Best regards from Hamburg

Joachim

----- Original Message -----
From: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
To: "Hans-Joachim Schröder"
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding


Hello Joachim,



Thank you for your prompt answer, I was afraid you were not using
anymore this email address.

I am glad you are starting with the deck, because I will have to do
it as well sooner or later.

I was wondering how to paint the deck without killing the antislip.

Could you elaborate on how are you going to do it?

I am not familiar with terms like treadmaster and 2k paint, or VC 17
products. I will check the web link you mention.

This my first owned boat and I think I have a lot to learn.



Vielen Dank

Jose_Luis



-----Original Message-----
From: "Hans-Joachim Schröder" [mailto:achimschro@web.de]
Sent: sábado, 02 de abril de 2005 10:48
To: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
Subject: FW: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding



"Hans-Joachim Schröder" <achimschro@web.de> schrieb am 02.04.05
10:43:43:



Hello Jose_Luis,

congratulations to the new Amel boat. I hope you will enjoy it as
much we do enjoy the smaller version KIRK # 81 built in 1972.
Welcome to the forum for amel owners.

Sorry for writing in German. . Because I thought this message was
for a german owner I referred to German products. Those are
available in Spain check www.festool.es.

I did a complete renovation of a boat which had osmosis . For
sanding down the hull I used a FESTO ROTEX sander which a very
professional tool and fortunately comparatively heavy. In the last I
had to sand down the underwater area of my Kirk I used 40 grid
sandpaper and the rotating mode of the machine. I removed the
complete gelcoat and checked the laminate. I should be almost free
of "White Llines" this is where the old polyester doesn't stick to
the glass mat and is therefore o good start for osmosis in the
future.

I my posting i stated that for sanding the bottom you might need
good sanding paper with 120, 180 and 240 for the finish. We have a
very smooth bottom area where we use VC 17 products. This is because
we do some club racing and are succesfull with this "old ship". For
the deck area you can start with 120 grid and then 240 and 320.
Please keep in mind that preparation incl. sanding, fairing and
stripping off the equipment will take almost 90 % of the total time.
But after that you should be save for another 15 years.

This year I am renovating the deck area. Because this is the first
time after 33 years. This needs a lot of sanding of the antislip
deck areas. I am planning to cover the walking areas with
treadmaster and paint the upper deck areas with 2k paint. But this
willtake another month because I live in northern Germany where the
current outside temparature is now at 6 degrees with a chance of
frost overnight.

If you need any further information please do not hesitate to
contact me. Your German is by far better than my non-exisiting
spanish.

Good luck and fair winds

Joachim





--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:

Hello Joachim,

Could you please translate into English for me?
I am very interested in your answer aber mein deutsch ist nicht so
gut.

Vielen dank
Jose_Luis (Spain)


Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex
raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm
Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant- nehmen.
Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum
Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80% der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf
oberhalb
der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je
nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim


Re: hull sanding

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hello Joachim,

Could you please translate into English for me?
I am very interested in your answer aber mein deutsch ist nicht so
gut.

Vielen dank
Jose_Luis (Spain)


Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm
Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant- nehmen.
Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum
Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80% der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf oberhalb
der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim


Amel Euros 41 happy new owner

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hello,

I have bought a month ago an Amel Euros 41 hull nr 212.
I am refitting it and I already have taken it to sea in Almeria, near
Gibraltar Strait.

Glad to hear from other Amel owners.
JL


NEW AMEL ?

Dimitris <dkra@...>
 

It seems that a new boat is comming out of La Rochelle. I read about
that in the french forum. I hope that we learn more about that soon.

Dimitris
SM Alma Libre


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A Fond Farewell

amelforme
 

Hi Mike,



No apology needed and I thank you for what you wrote on the owners group.



Dinner. We owe you a dinner when you and Maureen come to South Florida.
Please, keep us on your dance card.



Wait until you see what's next.



All the best,

Joel (Vela too)





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Phone: 1 (954) 462-5869 Fax: 1 (954) 462-3923



Not proofed by JFP


A Fond Farewell

mcgosprey <mglass@...>
 

I recently completed the sale of my SM 2000 and, I trust, she is
already taking her owners on new adventures. I just wanted to take
this opportunity to thank the members of this chat room for all the
invaluable help they gave to me (even when they didn't know it) over
the last several years. Countless times I discovered solutions to
problems from other members and headed off problems others had
written about. The forum is a great resource.
I decided to use Joel Potter as my broker for the sale. He sold me
the boat new and no one knows more about the Amel this side of the
Atlantic. I thought he did a terrrific job and always acted with
integrity and fairness. (And yes, unless you have an awful lot of
free time and a high tolerance for aggravation, use a broker) If the
sad day comes when you decide to sell your own Amel, keep in mind
that the process will likely take several months and that there is a
fairly well established range of value the boats sell for based on
their age. Joel can give you a pretty good idea of the resale value.
Thanks again and safe and happy passages to all of you. Michael
Glass/ex-Second Call


Chain Counter

mcymabm@voila.fr <mcymabm@...>
 

The chain meter counter of my Super Maramu2000 is again out of order.
It is the second one which fails: altogether, this equipment worked less than two years out of the four and an half I had the boat.
I am presently far from France (Panama) and would like to try to get it fixed here.
Does anybody have got the drawings of the display unit? Who could send it to me by e.mail at mcymabm@voila.fr ; the professionals need it to eventually fix the problem.
Did anybody replaced this equipment, failing continuously, by a really efficient product? If yes, which one??
I know that I am far from being the only one to have troubles with this equipment, I even know personally some of them.

Thanks for your precious help.

Yves MARTIN d'AIGUEPERSE
S.M.2000 ‘’Blue Marine’’



mcymabm@voila.fr
------------------------------------------

Faites un voeu et puis Voila ! www.voila.fr



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Water maker

mcymabm@voila.fr <mcymabm@...>
 

I wrote the following some time ago, but, since I was at sea, I was not able to send it earlier.
Good reading

Dear Anne and John, on BALI HAI,
Dear Jim, on ANTARES,

I think you are not confused at all: The situation is such that, even with no desalted water being produced (valve opened, anticlockwise) , the indicator, chronologically after 2 minutes, turns to “Good quality” …of what???

Even if the production is not good, a salinity which was so high that immeasurable with normal manual gauge in my case, the good quality remains green indefinitely.

The salinity monitor is not connected, so that it does not analyse the produced water, and does not send salted water, if any, back to sea. (Easy to control there is no voltage on wires connecting to the monitor)

In my case, the osmotic filters being out of order after only 500 hours, or less, the equipment produced salted water and sent it in my tanks for months. Since I do not drink it, and since I was relying on the monitor, it probably lasted quite long.

Although in French, I could never get from Dessalator proper and clear answers to my numerous letters ( always turning around) until September 20th 2004 …, when P. WAGNER, MD of Dessalator admitted that it was a deliberate choice made by him and AMEL to send salted water in my / your tanks.

I find this answer indecent:
I simply bought a watermaker to make good water and not salted one. The rest is my concern.

On top of that, all the documents we received when commissioning the boat are pure lies and so are the explanations given; and worse, driving to a possible misuse of the equipment.

The last letter of P. WAGNER, posted to me and French Forum, is only to turn into derision and ridicule my comments, make philosophy and vindication on salted water…and give absolutely no response, neither to technical questions nor to how to solve the problem; its not his concern.

The consequences of this deliberate choice are, or can be, very serious.
I actually got problems with:

The contactor (pressure switch) of the sanitary water pump.
The expansion tank , the one which is not in stainless steel.
The washing machine, completely corroded from inside by salt and its other consequence: electrolyse (I can provide pictures).
Ceramic filter installation at outgoing of tanks completely corroded.

What is the state of the boiler? I have not looked inside yet.
The same applies to dishwashing machine, faucets and their fragile thermostats, pipes…


I consider we, all Dessalator customers, are facing a very serious and intolerable problem and hope I have been clear enough, although in my English.

I, of course, remain at your disposal for any complement, comment or support .

Cordially,

Yves MARTIN d'AIGUEPERSE
On” BLUE MARINE” (SM 311)





mcymabm@voila.fr
------------------------------------------

Faites un voeu et puis Voila ! www.voila.fr


Water Maker

mcymabm@voila.fr <mcymabm@...>
 

amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

I think it is important to advise you, who have got a DESSALATOR watermaker, that I nearly had fire in by boat.
The 220 V. motor, having no electrical protection, burned.
Somebody said, on this forum, that the line circuit breaker was not big enough and was contemplating to replace it by a bigger one; I would suggest not to do that. If a breaker trips it is probably because the motor is faulty and takes too much power when starting or blocking. It is a good thing that it tripped; mine didn’t. Anyway the breaker in the switchboard is there to protect the line / cable and not the motor which should have, like all other appliances (charger, air conditioning, fans…), a specific protection adapted to its way of working. DESSALATOR water makers have none.
Be careful !!

Yves MARTIN d'AIGUEPERSE
‘’BLUE MARINE’’
SM N° 311





mcymabm@voila.fr
------------------------------------------

Faites un voeu et puis Voila ! www.voila.fr



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]