Hello to all,

I do not believe that you can remove easily the pin with scuba tanks. I had
a similar problem in Greece and the pin was badly bend and it was impossible
to be removed without taking out the bow with the Amel kit which I recommend
to all Amel sailors. It is not easy to be used but it is a safety device in
case you are in trouble. You need about 3 hour work to remove and reinstall
the bow but it works.

By the way I heard that the new Amel boat has double props in a tunnel that
is lowered in the water with a similar systems like the SM so this weak
point has got much better.

Regards

Dimitris
SM Alma Libre
www.almalibre.gr

_____

From: John and Anne on Bali Hai [mailto:hollamby@compuserve.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 11:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster prop replacement


Hello Bob,
It is a doddle. I assume you have a spare prop which comes with the
boss which fits onto the drive shaft. Look at the boss and you will
see that has a hole through which there is a stainless pin which will
take the drive from the shaft. Your old prop has gone missing and so
on the drive shaft there is the old boss and pin or perhaps the old
pin has dropped out and the boss has also vanished.
You do not need to haul out or have the special kit if you can get a
scuba diver to remove the old boss and pin and fit the the new boss
and pin and then fit the prop and screw in the nylon screws. (If you
are unlucky the diver may need to use a similar size pin to drive out
the old one). At a pinch it could be done with a snorkel, I suspect.
Bingo! all is well. Just make sure that you always have a couple of
spare props for the next time. When you pay for them you will become
more careful about stray lines etc..
You do not say your hull no, Mine is 319 and I lost three in the first
couple of years but I have got better!

All the best, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319




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Hello Bob,
It is a doddle. I assume you have a spare prop which comes with the
boss which fits onto the drive shaft. Look at the boss and you will
see that has a hole through which there is a stainless pin which will
take the drive from the shaft. Your old prop has gone missing and so
on the drive shaft there is the old boss and pin or perhaps the old
pin has dropped out and the boss has also vanished.
You do not need to haul out or have the special kit if you can get a
scuba diver to remove the old boss and pin and fit the the new boss
and pin and then fit the prop and screw in the nylon screws. (If you
are unlucky the diver may need to use a similar size pin to drive out
the old one). At a pinch it could be done with a snorkel, I suspect.
Bingo! all is well. Just make sure that you always have a couple of
spare props for the next time. When you pay for them you will become
more careful about stray lines etc..
You do not say your hull no, Mine is 319 and I lost three in the first
couple of years but I have got better!

All the best, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319

I've lost my bow thruster prop. Does anyone have experience in
removing the bow thruster foot or replacing the prop without taking
the boat out of the water? I see that amel sells a kit for doing
this. Is it worth getting (vs paying for a haul). I read a comment
somewhere that it was hard to do. I'm trying to decide if I should
haul it (I just put it in) or wait for the special device from Amel.

Also, can someone give me detailed instructions on replacing the
prop? Seems like removing the screws, if they have sheared off, could
be a problem.

Thanks.

Bob

Hi, I had reported on this forum,that last year, several times, my
yanmar did not start. i have installed a " bridge" between the +
and -on the starter, so i could easy bridg the contact. Neverless,
amel has changed the solonoid on the negativ, ( the one you
described), but only a few weeks later the problem accuerd again.
Now, Amel has changed as well the other solonoid ( little black
beside the other, above mentionned). Now the problem is over. It
seems,that the loss on curency is sometimes to much ( maybe when
humide ). The Yanmar- Technician in Hyeres knows the problem, and it
seems, that Yanmar has allready given a Worknotice in this respect.
Get the circuit checked, if the solonoid keeps the 12V or it drops
immediatly after turning the key. In case of loss, you have the same
problem as I had.

Rudy
SAMANTHA


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jfolino901"
<jfolino901@y...> wrote:

I HAVE REPORTED IN THIS FORUM A RECURRING PROBLEM WITH MY YANMAR.

IF

I
HAVE MOTORED FOR A WHILE AT SPEED, SHUT THE ENGINE OFF AND
IMMEDIATELY
TRY TO RESTART, IT IS LIKE THE BATERRY IS TOTALLY DEAD!
THAT IS THE STARTER MOTOR DOESN'T ENGAGE, IN FACT THERE ISN'T ANY
SOLENOID CLICK WHATSOEVER. AFTER A LONG PERIOD OF TIME THE ENGINE
WILL
RESTART AS IF NOTHING HAPPENED.
THIS FIRST HAPPENED WHILE I WAS IN GUADELOUPE AND LAURENT CHANGED

THE

SOLENOID TO ONE THAT HAS AN OVERRIDE BUTTON ON IT. NOW I MUST HAVE

2

PEOPLE ABOARD. ONE TO PRESS THIS BUTTON, THE OTHER TO TURN THE

START

KEY.
HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND GOT TO THE ROOT OF THE PROBLEM?
MIGHT IT BE DUE TO A SAFETY FEATURE THAT WON'T LET THE ENGINE

RESTART

IF IT AS TO HOT?
MY YANMAR SERIAL # IS E11660, MODEL # IS 4JH3-TE

SM #347 SULAJON
JOHN FOLINO

Has anyone replaced the shroud covers, 1/2 in. ID on the main shrouds
in the US? Where did you get them.

Thanks,

Jim Wiggin ANTARES SM 2000

It happened before I owned the boat but most of the instruments were fried and those that sirvived needed repair.
Tom, Tempest Mango #44

It is my understanding that the copper terminals are the RF ground and connect the copper mesh in the hull and the two dyna plates on the skeg. My HF radio worked very well grounded to these terminals. There is no lighting protection as far as I know. My mango was hit twice.
Tom McGuffy

For my 1982 Mango I'm trying to establish a clear set of groundings for AC, DC, RF and
lightening, following an excellent primer on the subject at SailMail. Can anyone please
advise what is the copper terminal which is located between the transom and the deeper
aft storage space in the aft cabin, or just to starboard of the lazarette? Nothing is
connected to it in my boat and it disappears into the fibreglass of the hull. I'm wondering
if might be the access to an RF ground laid into the original fibreglass layers. Also, I can't
see a lightening ground system. Can anyone help? Regards

Tom
What happened when you were struck? Were you damaged, lose your
electronics?
SV Eshamy Mango #15

I am not now an Amel owner but am possibly interested in the Sharki,
Hallelujah. Some members may know the boat. She was dismasted in a
roll off the coast of Colombia in late 2000 (I believe). I believe
the owner affected repairs himself in Panama and continued on the
voyage. The boat is for sale in Annapolis, and I am trying to learn
whether anyone knows of the quality of the repairs - masts, rigging,
hard dodger, etc. - that were made and of the overall integrity of the
boat. Thusfar, I am unable to gain any information on the boat
through the listing brokerage. Additionally, the owners are in Canada
and apparently unavailable for assistance.

Michael,

I have posted three pics showing how the vented loop has been
installed on my Perkins in my Super Maramu. Look for them in
the "Super Maramu - interior" photos folder on this site.

I recommend Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical
Manual". He has a good write up on pages 258-259 (with drawings) on
siphon breaks for engine installations both above- and below- the
waterline.

All the best,

Richard Tate
SM#5 "Spice"

Hi Randy,

I confirm it's 90 weight oil for the bow thruster. The regular engine oil
goes in the transmission keel box and the water maker high pressure pump.

Glad to hear that you still have your great boat! All is well here and
itching to get going again. Many improvements have been done over the winter


Regards to Alex.

Ian SM 414 Crusader (still in Cyprus)

Hi Randy,

oil be te used is 90 type

Patrick
Caramel (SM 2000 #329)

I am in the process of changing the oil in the bow
thruster of my SM 2000, #240. However, since
performing this maintenance a couple of years ago, I
have forgottgen whether to use 90 weight gear oil, or
plain old 30 or 40 weight motor oil. (I think it's the
latter.)
Can anyone advise me?
Many thanks,
Randy Kilmon
"Drifter"

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Hi. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Mango? Mine is a 1982 and
I'm having some trouble understanding some of the bits & pieces.

Regards, Roger
Message from Roger Banks
Mobile: 0407 91 4601
Home: +61 2 6291 4601

I have a Mango with a M-92 Perkins installed. I am looking for ideas on the
correct way to install an anti siphon valve or loop. The old engine had a
valve installed between the seacock and a refrigeration condenser which was part
of the raw water system. I am not sure if this is OK though the boat
travelled 1000s of miles in this manner.
SV Eshamy Mango#15 Michael P. McCarthy

Alex,
I have a 1985 Sharki with a Scheiber CJ 400 C charger which charges 30 amp hour max to charge our 450 amp hours of batteries. We had an electrical short in the wiring to the charger a few days after we purchased MACCABEE in 1990 which melted all the wires to the charger from the batteries (we were saved from a fire by a 400 amp smart charger shunt melting as the charger had no fuse at that time!) My electrician had the charger open to inspect and test and rewire. The charger was unhurt and has been working well 20 years now. It is a pretty basic unit and I believe if you want to keep it, it should be fairly easy to repair -- no high tech electronics.

While I know the newer models can do all sorts of tricks such as equalizing and can be safely left on all the time, we have been happy with the old Scheiber. The 110/220 option has been a big help on our circumnavigation and we appreciate the reliability of the old unit. I have noticed a lot of repairs and replacements with some of the newer models! I would strongly suggest installing an in-line fuse with whatever option you decide on.

Good luck either way!

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki 121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service
Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Alejandro Paquin <alex.paquin@usa.net> wrote:
Simpatico is a 1981 Maramu hull no. 94. The original Scheiber
S.A.charger/transformer (type C1400A) stopped working over the weekend.
I have four acid lead deep cycle batteries with aprox 780 amp/h
capacity.
The unit is 400VA and runs on 100/220V to charge 12V/24 DC. The serial
number is 1/7/81.
Does anyone have any experience servicing this unit and understand how
the wiring is set up? It is still the original arrangement and has
never been modified.
i would appreciate any feedback regarding repairs or replacement
options.
I do not have a diesel generator onboard.

Alex Paquin
s/v SIMPATICO




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Steve what a great suggestion!

We've just, or just in the process ,of finalising the purchase of our Super
Maramu, and believe me that in itself is an adventure.

Might I suggest that a list of Recommendations for SM Owners is also
developed, so that we might all share in the benefits of the 'pain of
learning' .

Best Wishes

Rob and Glen - 'Serena Azul' (our new baby!)

Simpatico is a 1981 Maramu hull no. 94. The original Scheiber
S.A.charger/transformer (type C1400A) stopped working over the weekend.
I have four acid lead deep cycle batteries with aprox 780 amp/h
capacity.
The unit is 400VA and runs on 100/220V to charge 12V/24 DC. The serial
number is 1/7/81.
Does anyone have any experience servicing this unit and understand how
the wiring is set up? It is still the original arrangement and has
never been modified.
i would appreciate any feedback regarding repairs or replacement
options.
I do not have a diesel generator onboard.

Alex Paquin
s/v SIMPATICO

SM #158 = http://nathape.sailingsite.org :-))


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "bearvision2000"
<CaptMunro@c...> wrote:

Is there anywhere in the Yahoo groups where we can see where the Amel
owners websites are if they have public websites? I think it would

be

fun to read their adventures.

Steve