Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Pointing ability of Super Maramu

Claude Roessiger <nearlynothing@...>
 

Dear David,
Basically the SM doesn't do well closer than 45 wind
apparent. The sheeting angle is surely a major factor.
It is a hallmark of Amel boats; they are built to
cruise, for the open sea, where sailing close hauled
for any period of time isn't wonderful in any case.
This said, it is an issue, and one can only hope that
in a future boat Amel will improve upwind performance.
I have sometimes wondered if fitting an inboard track
and combining this with a smaller headsail might not
help, but I have concluded that it's more bother than
it's worth.
If you are really adamant about gaining another 5
degrees upwind, I suspect a headsail with a very
modern construction might achieve that. Maybe someone
has tried?
Basically, think in terms of idyllic reaches under the
stars of tropical skies....
Claude Roessiger

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Pointing ability of Super Maramu

David Crisp
 

Hi All,

How close hauled should a Super Maramu sail? The best I can do is
45deg apparent, which basically means going to windward is very slow
and frustrating. In calm seas I can pinch up to maybe 40deg
sometimes but speed suffers badly and I usually end up with an
accidental tack. Am suspecting (hoping) I have a problem. Having
raced a lot I believe I know how to trim sails and I have a new
genoa.

So is 45deg apprent normal? If not anyone ahve any suggestions as to
my problem?

Regards
David
Gallant of Fowey


Re: LOOKING FOR A NECO 692 AUTOPILOT CONTROL UNIT

Alejandro Paquin
 

I have posted a photo of the unit on the PHOTO section of the group.
Please have a look and tell me if you recognize the unit. There is
also a metal label on the back identifying the unit.
Alex Paquin



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
Hi do you have a picture of the unit that you are looking for?
i might have one.
eric
kimberlt@o...


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alejandro Paquin"
<alex.paquin@u...> wrote:
I'm looking for a 12 volt Control Unit for a NECO 692 autopilot
for
my 1981 Maramu. Does anyone on this list have a discarded unit in
good working condition available for sale?
These units were manufactured in the late 70's through mid 80's.


Re: LOOKING FOR A NECO 692 AUTOPILOT CONTROL UNIT

kimberlite1212 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi do you have a picture of the unit that you are looking for?
i might have one.
eric
kimberlt@optonline.net


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alejandro Paquin"
<alex.paquin@u...> wrote:
I'm looking for a 12 volt Control Unit for a NECO 692 autopilot
for
my 1981 Maramu. Does anyone on this list have a discarded unit in
good working condition available for sale?
These units were manufactured in the late 70's through mid 80's.


Re: Hotwater tank anode

kimberlite1212 <no_reply@...>
 

Dear Ian,
i think the annode is made of magnesium.
fair winds,
eric


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
Hi Ed, I got mine from Amel when I was last in La R. Its a pipe
of zinc
about 12 " long and .75" diameter with a screw attachment at one
end. Ian


From: "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@e...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:36:10 -0000

Hi Ian,
I am seriously contemplating the same task on SM331. Where did you
get your hot water heater anode? Is this something you can pick
up at
West Marine or another special order item?

Ed Steele
DoodleBug

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy
design..why
couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the
outside....the
good news however was that the existing anode was only about
half
used,
after three years and about 18 months aboard.I´ll look again in
2006!Ian


From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the
messiest
job I
have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much
water
as
you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point
a lot
of
water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of
water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all.
Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the
next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is
that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three
years
old
I am
about to replace the anode. The instructions that came
with the
boat are
actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that
the
anode
be
changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary
to
change so
often unless we had been using shore power all the time,
which
we
havent
been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the
fresh
water
from the
tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that
you
can
move the
tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base
whereupon
all will
be revealed, and that then it´s just a matter of undoing a
nut
in
the bottom
of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and
replacing
the
new one.(
I´m assuming that I will find that the anode has its own
access
hole into
the tank and that it´s not , for instance, part of the
heater
element
fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and
knows of
any
problems
or tips that you should look out for, I should be
interested to
hear.
Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Ed, I got mine from Amel when I was last in La R. Its a pipe of zinc about 12 " long and .75" diameter with a screw attachment at one end. Ian


From: "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:36:10 -0000

Hi Ian,
I am seriously contemplating the same task on SM331. Where did you
get your hot water heater anode? Is this something you can pick up at
West Marine or another special order item?

Ed Steele
DoodleBug

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy
design..why
couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the
outside....the
good news however was that the existing anode was only about half
used,
after three years and about 18 months aboard.Ill look again in
2006!Ian


From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest
job I
have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water
as
you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot
of
water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years
old
I am
about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the
boat are
actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the
anode
be
changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to
change so
often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which
we
havent
been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh
water
from the
tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you
can
move the
tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base
whereupon
all will
be revealed, and that then its just a matter of undoing a
nut
in
the bottom
of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing
the
new one.(
Im assuming that I will find that the anode has its own
access
hole into
the tank and that its not , for instance, part of the heater
element
fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of
any
problems
or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to
hear.
Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
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today!
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger


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LOOKING FOR A NECO 692 AUTOPILOT CONTROL UNIT

Alejandro Paquin
 

I'm looking for a 12 volt Control Unit for a NECO 692 autopilot for
my 1981 Maramu. Does anyone on this list have a discarded unit in
good working condition available for sale?
These units were manufactured in the late 70's through mid 80's.


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode

edmund_steele
 

Hi Ian,
I am seriously contemplating the same task on SM331. Where did you
get your hot water heater anode? Is this something you can pick up at
West Marine or another special order item?

Ed Steele
DoodleBug

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy
design..why
couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the
outside....the
good news however was that the existing anode was only about half
used,
after three years and about 18 months aboard.I´ll look again in
2006!Ian


From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest
job I
have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water
as
you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot
of
water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years
old
I am
about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the
boat are
actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the
anode
be
changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to
change so
often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which
we
havent
been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh
water
from the
tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you
can
move the
tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base
whereupon
all will
be revealed, and that then it´s just a matter of undoing a
nut
in
the bottom
of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing
the
new one.(
I´m assuming that I will find that the anode has its own
access
hole into
the tank and that it´s not , for instance, part of the heater
element
fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of
any
problems
or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to
hear.
Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger
today!
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thanks Vito, you werent kidding about the mess!What a lousy design..why couldnt they just have the anode on its own screw in from the outside....the good news however was that the existing anode was only about half used, after three years and about 18 months aboard.Ill look again in 2006!Ian


From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hotwater tank anode
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:54:02 -0000

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest job I
have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water as
you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot of
water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years old
I am
about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the
boat are
actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the anode
be
changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to
change so
often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which we
havent
been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh water
from the
tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you can
move the
tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base whereupon
all will
be revealed, and that then its just a matter of undoing a nut in
the bottom
of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing the
new one.(
Im assuming that I will find that the anode has its own access
hole into
the tank and that its not , for instance, part of the heater
element
fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of any
problems
or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to
hear.
Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger
today!
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



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_________________________________________________________________
Sign-up for a FREE BT Broadband connection today! http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo agent

amelforme
 

Hello Ian,

It's my 50th Birthday and I'm assisting my mid life crisis by improving my
open wheel racing skills, what fun! I'm up at ROAD AMERICA in Wisconsin
for some formula car racing school at my favorite track.

The BEST Volvo diesel mechanic I have ever had experience has moved North
from Ft. Lauderdale to the Palm Beach area. He is KLAUSE of KLAUSE MARINE.
His phone # is 1 (561) 383-5055. He is as strident and opinionated as I am
which may rub some the wrong way but he knows what he is doing. If he can't
fix it...cant be fixed.

The local guy in Fort Lauderdale is John O'Hara of O'Hara Marine, 1 (954)
765-1960. I have not had occasion to try him yet.

Hope this helps.
All the best,
Joel F. Potter - Super Maramu #400

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins [mailto:ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:01 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo agent


Can anyone send me the email address of a good Volvo agent in Florida--
maybe the one who Joel Potter uses--he is away until 12 Sept. Thanks. Ian
Jenkins SM 302

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Re: Hotwater tank anode

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ian

Replacing the anode in the hot water tank has been the messiest job I
have done so far on My SM # 283. Basically drain out as much water as
you can. Unmount the tank, unscrew the element at this point a lot of
water and rust will come out. You can controll the amount of water
that comes out and be able to capture much but not all. Remove the
element clean it, replace the zinc and reasemble. Spend the next 2
hours cleaning your engine compartment. The good thing is that your
heater will work like never before.

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years old
I am
about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the
boat are
actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the anode
be
changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to
change so
often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which we
havent
been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh water
from the
tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you can
move the
tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base whereupon
all will
be revealed, and that then it´s just a matter of undoing a nut in
the bottom
of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing the
new one.(
I´m assuming that I will find that the anode has its own access
hole into
the tank and that it´s not , for instance, part of the heater
element
fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of any
problems
or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to
hear.
Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger
today!
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger


Hotwater tank anode

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

I have a Nautic 45 hotwater tank on my SM 302.Now three years old I am about to replace the anode. The instructions that came with the boat are actually for a different Nautic model but recommend that the anode be changed annually. Amel told me it wasnt strictly necessary to change so often unless we had been using shore power all the time, which we havent been .
I assume that to change the anode you drain down the fresh water from the tank, slacken off the two stainless fixing bands so that you can move the tank sufficiently to remove the plastic cover on the base whereupon all will be revealed, and that then its just a matter of undoing a nut in the bottom of the tank , removing the stub of the old anode and replacing the new one.( Im assuming that I will find that the anode has its own access hole into the tank and that its not , for instance, part of the heater element fixing)
If anyone has already carried out this operation and knows of any problems or tips that you should look out for, I should be interested to hear.
Thanks, Ian Jenkins

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger today! http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger


Volvo agent

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Dear Bill, Marty and Joel,
Thanks for all your replies. Im in Ecuador looking to get some spares shipped out ( theyve not heard of Volvo here) and between you I think Ive got all the info I need.
Happy birthday Joel! Life is about to begin! Best regards, Ian

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Re: Deck Grooves

M. Ann Harsh <syharmonie@...>
 

Dear Bob, We have SM#160, and our stripes faded, etc. At the
suggestion of friends, Glen and Julie Bradley on SM C'est Assez, we
painted our stripes. We love it as do all who have seen it: our boat
looks new.

The job looks bigger than it is. First we tried "free hand painting
as Julie and Glen did. But we were not steady enough and were not
getting a finished result we liked. We tried taping and doing free
hand again. The deck is not smooth and taping does not stop the
bleeding into the light brown. Again the end result was not good.
Finally we found the paint striper Joel referred to via the internet
from J.C. Whitney, auto parts wholesaler. Our striper was the one
they had at 1/16 of an inch. I now know that there are other sizes
but I do not know where to get them. The 1/16 inch worked fine you
must just go back and forth several times to fill in the whole
groove. The stiper cost about $10 and about the same to mail it to
us.

Instead of the two part polyurethane paint, we used one part. In
discussions with the paint experts we expect this to last around 10
years. It is now 1 year old and looks like new. We painted our
stripes black. Talking to another SM owner who saw our decks, he has
found (or had made a dark brown). It is not a standard color that is
available in the quantity (qt) we wanted. And we think the black
truly makes our decks look like teak. We poured the paint into a
plastic squeeze bottle so I could readily refill the striper as I
painted. Paint etc. cost us about $40.

Now for the work effort. My husband, Ralph, preped sections of the
deck for my painting(about 1 hr. each day I painted). This consisted
of washing, lightly sanding the grooves (he used an edge (pink pearl
eraser) the size of the grooves and then wiping with a sovent to
again clean grooves. These instructions as per the polyurethane can.
I then painted with the striper and used the solvent on a rag around
my finger to take off any stray paint. I also used a fine brush at
times for corners, bends, etc. I was on my hands and knees while
painting and a good knee pad is essential. It took me 9 days to do
the entire deck and I worked no more than 4 hrs a day. I got better
as I went and I waited until we had reasonable weather, not too much
heat. It took another 5 or 6 days to do the cockpit. About 50 hours
in total. The end result is well worth it. By the way, you will be
amazed at the different look (lighter) of the "teak" boards with the
increased contrast.

Good striping!!

Ann and Ralph on SM#160 Harmonie



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rossirossix4"
<equinoxsolstice@h...> wrote:
Does anyone have any good techniques for darkening the faded dark
grooves in the faux teak decks. I'm OK with the faded "teak"
boards, but want to darken the gooves which have faded and
disappeared in places.

Bob Rossi, Santorin "Hanalei"


Re: Volvo agent

Bill & Sara Atz <WCZ4455@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote:
Can anyone send me the email address of a good Volvo agent in
Florida--
maybe the one who Joel Potter uses--he is away until 12 Sept.
Thanks. Ian
Jenkins SM 302
I had great success with getting Volvo and Onan parts by mail from
J.D.Neeson at Marine Parts Express. He went to great effort for an
initially very small order. Phone number is toll-free 877-621-2628
and the e-mail is inquiry@marinepartsexpress.com
Bill on Lady Sadie
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Zeise diesel generator

Zanareva
 

I have a Zeise installed in my Super Maramu. The control panel has
an indicator light notifying me that there's water in the 'capsule'.
Does anyone know where or what this 'capsule' is, and how to remove
the water? The manual is no help to me on this matter!
Thanks
Richard


Volvo agent

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Can anyone send me the email address of a good Volvo agent in Florida--
maybe the one who Joel Potter uses--he is away until 12 Sept. Thanks. Ian Jenkins SM 302

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of 56k? Get a FREE BT Broadband connection http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband


stainless rub rail

kimberlite1212 <no_reply@...>
 

Joel,
how are the new stainless rub rails fitted to the new red stripe
amels?
can these be retrofitted to Kimberlite?
thanks
eric

please say hi to vela.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Deck Grooves

kimberlite1212 <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Joel,
what uv inhibitor do you use on your boat?
thanks
eric


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@w...> wrote:
Hello Mr. Rossi,

The problem with the dark brown deck stripes is that they are made
of gel
coat. The darker the gel coat, the faster it oxidizes and fades
away. You
can preserve new gel coat with judicious applications of proper
ultra violet
inhibitors. It is nearly impossible to restore faded/missing dark
brown gel
coat. When you polish or clean it, you are removing it.

The fix is tedious and time consuming if you do it yourself or
rather
expensive ($1500) if you hire it out. In twenty five years of
preparing
used Amels for the resale market, the only real solution is to
paint these
stripes on with two part polyurethane paint after scrupulous
preparation of
the surface as directed by the instructions on the paint can.
READ THE
INSTRUCTIONS! It will save a lot of grief.

Some automotive paint supply stores (wholesale level) sell very
nice narrow
gauge paint rollers with a self contained paint reservoir. I have
used
these to good effect. Otherwise, mask and use artist camel hair
brushes.
The results will please you if you carefully prepare and mask the
surface
and if you READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.

Good luck.

Joel F. Potter SMM # 400



Re: Deck Grooves

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rossirossix4"
<equinoxsolstice@h...> wrote:
Does anyone have any good techniques for darkening the faded dark
grooves in the faux teak decks. I'm OK with the faded "teak"
boards, but want to darken the gooves which have faded and
disappeared in places.

Bob Rossi, Santorin "Hanalei"
Bob

I have SM6 which obviously is one of the first SM's made. The whole
boat is well maintained and looks good for her age. The decks however
are totally faded. My response? Leave it alone, the longer it ages
and fades the more realistic the "Faux" looks. I have had many people
ask why my SM has real teak and others have fake. That's how real it
looks when it gets really faded. Stick with it, it will look good
later and save you a lot of money/work. That's why Henri hates wood
on deck.
Regards
Bob Linley
SM6 "Minaxi"