Gary,

As to the wash-down pump. I have had Amel replace mine twice under
warranty. I dissambled both pumps and found the failure to be the
same, the pump body cracks at the point where the outlet pipe screws
into the base. This is a plastic part and needs to be redimensioned
here or replaced with metal. One of the Amel LaRochelle people
confirmed that these pumps always fail at this point. When the time
comes to replace this pump at my cost, I will choose a different
brand.

Sorry, no insight on your low pressure pump for the water maker.

Stephan

Hi John & Ruth.

I would be interested in the parachute anchor and lines / bags.
I can offer you 400 euros. Where is this equipment now?

best rgds,

Amer (Synnefoula AM 153)

Sorry John,
my offer is for the Genoa sock.
Greetings from Switzerland
Hanspeter

Hello Hanspeter

Which item is your offer for ? Genoa sock or King size berth ?

Thanks
John

From: Hanspeter Bttig <hanspeter.baettig@bluewin.ch>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Misc Super Maramu equipment for sale
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 01:19:05 +0200

Hello John
my offer: 98 Euro
regards
Hanspeter
----- Original Message -----
From: John & Ruth Martin
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Cc: jjmartin24@hotmail.com
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 11:42 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Misc Super Maramu equipment for sale


We have some equipment we would like offer for sale:

Genoa "sock" for Super Maramu - new Nov 1998, used about one year(replaced
by UV cover on genoa), off-white color, absolutely like new in storage bag.
Make offer.

King size berth extension for Super Maramu aft cabin, new Nov 1998. Wood
platform, foam cushion, gold fabric cushion cover - hardly used, looks brand
new. Make offer.

Zodiac Fast Roller 11'2" dinghy, 1998, with inflatable bottom. Just had
factory servicing (new glue throughout). One-year warranty on the servicing.
$1400.

Parachute anchor - "Paratech" brand. 18 foot parachute with 400' of line,
trip line and storage bags. Excellent condition. $800.

Reply if interested to
"jjmartin24@hotmail.com"
or call John Martin
757-440-2424 home phone
757-286-5757 cell phone

Regards

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




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Hello John
my offer: 98 Euro
regards
Hanspeter

Hello all,

I refinished my propane locker door with Minwax "Helmsman" urethane semigloss from the spray can. It looks like the Amel original factory finish. I put 4 coats on, one after the other, no sanding between coats or waiting for drying time. The only difference between the Helmsman and their regular urethane is the Helmsman has UV protection in it. If I use it to refinish wood in the cabin I'll use the regular Minwax as the UV protection has a slightly darker tint.

If anyone needs an English version of the Eno propsane stove operational manual, it is not long and I'd be glad to mail it to you.

Regards
John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"



_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail

We have some equipment we would like offer for sale:

Genoa "sock" for Super Maramu - new Nov 1998, used about one year(replaced by UV cover on genoa), off-white color, absolutely like new in storage bag. Make offer.

King size berth extension for Super Maramu aft cabin, new Nov 1998. Wood platform, foam cushion, gold fabric cushion cover - hardly used, looks brand new. Make offer.

Zodiac Fast Roller 11'2" dinghy, 1998, with inflatable bottom. Just had factory servicing (new glue throughout). One-year warranty on the servicing. $1400.

Parachute anchor - "Paratech" brand. 18 foot parachute with 400' of line, trip line and storage bags. Excellent condition. $800.

Reply if interested to
"jjmartin24@hotmail.com"
or call John Martin
757-440-2424 home phone
757-286-5757 cell phone

Regards

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus

Very detailed description at http://users.starpower.net/jphjph

Can anyone advise what's the best option to buy European (Swedish?)
original rigging wire in either Europe or the Caribbean? I intend to
use Norseman fittings with this wire throughout the whole boat. My
rigging is now 22 years old.
Please reply to: alex.paquin@usa.net
Alejandro Paquin

Hello Arnold<
I Would also like to hear details of the yacht

Robert






On Wednesday, April 30, 2003, at 12:19 AM, jonathanmills00 wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, pagandaisy <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

I am thinking of selling my 1994 Super Maramu as now living in
California it is just too much of a hassle to get to the

Caribbean. 

She is currently at the dock in Tortola, ready to go.

Arnold Grubin

Hi Arnold

I would like to hear the details of your yacht

regards

Jonathan  jonathan.mills@ireland.com

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Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

Dear Gary, If you are talking about the river that runs through the
middle of Guardaloupe, we took our last boat, an Oyster 435, also 2mtr
draft, through it and do not recall any problems. However had we gone
aground at the end of the main runway which is only about 30 or 40 yards
from the river we would have had horrendous disasters as we saw when we
stopped some way back and watched a Jumbo run up to full power with the
brakes on prior to take-off.The awesome sight could only have been bettered
if Jumbos had afterburners !!
You do not say which pressure vessel failed but I am sure it must be the
one hidden behind the genset. The one on top of the pump set is stainless
whereas the second one is steel and failed,I think, not only because it is
steel but also because it is fitted with a copper elbow. The vessel is a
bog standard unit which I replaced with an identical one purchased from an
agricultural irrigation shop here in Malta.That size is only sold here in
mild steel but one can buy the small one fitted to the pumpset or a much
larger one in stainless.So I fitted the steel one but used plastic elbows
etc instead of copper. Whether this will solve the problem I do not
know,but has already been there longer than the original.
Just why two pressure vessels are used is beyond me, perhaps Amel felt that
the bigger stainless one was too large to put on the pumpset.
Your tale of the failed pump for the desalinater is a worry. I think I
should get a bit more warning of such a failure as I fitted a second bilge
alarm about 9" down on the aft side of the sump because the standard one is
higher up and I was having trouble with the electric bilge pump valves
which resulted in grey water getting all over the engine room floor. This
additional (electronic) alarm needed a metal shield over it to stop false
alarms from water spray when the washing machine discharged into the sump.

Best wishes, Anne and John Hollamby Bali Hai SM 2000 319

Hello fellow Amel owners,
We reluctantly have our 1983 Amel Mango up for sale. After having
it listed in Soundings and Northwest Yachting, and after having every
donation company, broker, and lowball buyer contact us to either give
it away or steal it, which given the economy might be understandable,
we thought of turning to other Amel owners for a hand. While we were
cruising we came across many people who were interested in the boat,
too bad we didn't want to sell then! So we thought if anyone knew of
someone who would be interested in an Amel, but didn't want a new
boat, and would consider a great boat at a fair price, we would sure
appreciate you passing this info on to them. The boat is located in
Portland, Oregon, USA and more info can be found at
http://groups.msn.com/amelmango
Thanks for your help and we hope you have a great spring sailing
season. Best regards,
Adam Nelson

To Antonio and Giovanna Stoppani

Dear Antonio and Giovanna,

Will contact you later today to put up some pictures etc today or
tomorrow.

Best Rgds,

Rob

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, pagandaisy <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

I am thinking of selling my 1994 Super Maramu as now living in
California it is just too much of a hassle to get to the

Caribbean.

She is currently at the dock in Tortola, ready to go.

Arnold Grubin

Hi Arnold

I would like to hear the details of your yacht

regards

Jonathan jonathan.mills@ireland.com

I would be pleased to receive more info on your "EBBREZZA" including status, location, price, accessories, pictures and whatever you feel important.
Many thanks
Antonio and Giovanna Stoppani from Roma-Italia

We have an Amel Fango for sale. For those who don't know the
Fango it is a 10m Sloop with many of the facilities of the larger
Amels. It is configured as a 2 berth Ocean/ 6 person day sailer.
It was commissioned in 1989 and is called "Ebbrezza".

For any one interested I will forward more information.

Rob Kyle,
rob.molly@mac.com

The advice to me from Amel Guadeloupe was to
definitely NOT attempt the Riviere Salee; there simply
isn't enough water, full or empty tanks.
There is a very nice harbor in the Northwest of
Guadeloupe, Deshayes, which some boats heading to
Antigua ignore or suppose to be not very good. I
recommend it. It makes the sail north easy, and
usually gives a straight shot to Falmouth Harbour in
any case; if the wind is a little more East, Green
Island is possible.
Best.
Claude Roessiger

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April 27, 2003
Hello to all. I have enjoyed reading all the messages over the last
year or so. Many useful items of information. Our Super Maramu 2000
is currently in Marina Bas du Fort, Guadeloupe. We anticipate leaving
for Antigua in a few weeks. I have received varying opinions about
whether an amel with full water tanks and full fuel tanks and moderate
load of people and junk can navigate through the Riviere Salee. Has
anyone out there done it? How recently? Any words of advice?

Shortly after reading about the failure of the fresh water pressure
accumulator tank on another Amel, ours sprung a leak. It appeared to
be a failure at the the base of the 3/4 inch pipe fitting where it is
welded to the tank. There was corrosion and the tank metal in this
area coulbe be easily penetrated with a pencil. The boat is 21 months
old. This jetted fresh water onto the genset. After drying up the
engine compartment I partially disassembled all the panels on the
genset and was able to verify that no water damage was done. I'm not
sure why this failed but I believe it was a faulty weld. This sounds
like the exact same spot that the other member had a failure. Caution
to all. You might consider probing this area gently at the neck of
the fitting with a piece of sharpened wood to see if it is thin and
about to rupture.

On a more serious note, the same day, the desalinator low pressure
feed pump suffered a catastrophic seal failure. This happened while
we sailed between Grenada and Carriacou. As we sailed we made water
and at one point the bilge alarm went off. I immedicately opened the
engine hatch only to see water sloshing back and forth in the engine
room. I jumped below and a quick lick of the water confirmed it to be
sea water. I didn't see where it was coming from initially so I
turned off the main thru hull and then isolated it to the above noted
pump. The clean up of the engine room and Boeshielding everything took
a day. Disassembly of the pump in Tyrell Bay showed severe corrosion
on the shaft of the motor which caused the shaft seal to rupture. The
pump is un-repairable because the shaft was so badly corroded. Total
time on the desalinator is 95 hours. Laurent Colonna in Guadeloupe
says he has never seen this type of failure before. To Amel's
everlasting credit (and once again proving that they are a top notch
company) they are replacing the pump under warranty. I am concerned
though about this premature failure. I have always meticulously
flushed the system with fresh water after every use. I did have the
boat on the hard in Grenada for 5 months during the hurricaine season
and wondered if crevice corrosion occured under the seal from the
stagnant water. The other possibility is that the anchor wash-down
pump (that has leaked since new despite Laurents best efforts to seal
it)that sits next too the desalinator pump had allowed salt water onto
the exposed portion of the motor shaft thus causing the corrosion.
Has anyone else had this problem? When the boat will be inactive for
a period of time would it be better to completely empty the water
lines and pumps rather than just flusing them all with fresh water? I
would be interested in other peoples experience. Still the Amel is a
great boat and Chantiers Amel is a great company with great people.
Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona Hull # 335

Hi Daniel
You should be able to reach 2900 RPM at full throttle. I understand from your previous message that your engine seems not to have any problem to reach high reps in neutral gear. It probably means that your prop. is not very clean. With regards to the top speed you should be able to reach it at around 2700 RPM with a clean hull, in good weather condition. Clean hull means right after an antifouling treatment and not one or two months later.Talking about speed, check the GPS speed and the B&G information. If no current they should be the same.
Personally on long passages (several days) I run the engine at around 2200 which gives me a speed in the range of 7 - knots depending on the hull cleanness.

Erick MEJEAN
Best regards







----Original Message Follows----
From: "dgoffaux" <dgoffaux@bhkmining.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPM on Volvo TMD22A, again...!
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 19:24:38 -0000

Hi Erick,

Thanks for the answer, you are right about the torque. Only, it still
seems strange to be so close to the maximum, as at maximum throttle, I
reach 2600 to 2700 rpm, and that gives a notch above 7 knots (not
exactly hull speed). Which means that I should cruise at 2000 to
2200, maximum, at maybe 6.5 knots. Does that sound right?

My previous boat had a Yanmar, somewhat faster reving, so this one
puzzles me.

Best regards,

Daniel Goffaux


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick MEJEAN" <maramu@h...>
wrote:

Hi Daniel

You must consider two things when you look at an engine performance.
Power output and torque. Each engine has its own power curve and torque
curve.
Both don't follow the same pattern and don't have the same meaning.
With regards to the TMD 22 it reach its peak power of 57.4 KW at

4500 RPM,

but it reach its peak torque of 162 Nm at 2400 RPM.
At 4500 RPM the torque is down to 125 Nm.
While motoring you are more interested by torque than power as

regardless of

the power you will never achieve a higher speed than the hull speed.
Running an engine at its best torque does not make it labouring the

sea as

it is the time when the engine has the more strength.
The calculation of the propeller pitch takes into account all these

factors.

Changing the propeller pitch would be a big mistake as it will make

your

prop no longer adapted to the engine,transmission and hull specs.
Propeller companies are using extremely sophysticated software to

calculate

the size and pitch of a propeller given a boat specs.
The power will only help you to maintain a higher speed while

motoring in

choppy water or against the wind but the overall efficiency of your

engine

will be lower.
You also need to consider the consumption. While running your engine

at 2500

RPM your consumption will be in the range of 7 L/h and you will

reach your

max hull speed. Running the engine at 3500 RPM will multiply your
consumption by almost two and your speed will remain the same. Which

means

basically a fuel autonomy divided by two........
What the engine does not like is to be run at the same RPM for

hours, which

never occur to a car engine. As such to prevent the turbo clogging

every

three hours you should push your engine to 3000 RPM for around 20

min to

eliminate the carbon residues. Eventhough you run your engine at

3500 RPM

for hours without changing the RPM sooner or later you may face this

turbo

clogging problem.
Hope this will answer your questions

With best regards

Erick MEJEAN







----Original Message Follows----
From: "dgoffaux" <dgoffaux@b...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPM on Volvo TMD22A, again...!
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 20:50:03 -0000

So happy to have found this site! And to be able to find out how
others have solved various problems (few, actually, in my case) with
their Super Maramu! I purchased SM #135 last year in France (this is a
1995 model) had a good revision on all systems and crossed over to Ft
Lauderdale last December. 17 days from Gran Canary to Guadeloupe,
whithout pushing, the fishing was too good!

One thing I noticed at purchase time was that the engine, in gear,
will not go over 2700 rpm. The Volvo manual indicates a max. speed of
over 4000 rpm for the turbo version. The engine runs nicely, without
smoking and has about 2000 h. now.

The Volvo dealer in Guadeloupe said that they knew about Amel habit to
reduce RPM with the adjustment of the Max prop, a procedure whith
which they totally disagree! They recommend, at next haulout, to
adjust the Max prop as to obtain about 3,400 rpm with the engine in
gear (in neutral there is no problem to rev up).

In France, I also had the turbo dismantled and cleaned, as it was
found full of soot.

So,
1. What is the normal max rpm for the Volvo, as per Amel, and/or as
per Volvo?
2. Presumably, if the pitch of the Max prop is to high, keeping the
engine "labouring", it will induce sooting and will clog the turbo,
especially if indeed it only starts to pump at 2500 rpm or there
about. This may explain why - as I just read on various notes on this
site- one needs to rev up to maximum revolution for a few minutes
every so often. Why not, instead, have the engine running at its
recommended speed?
3. Obviously, I can see why someone recommended to remove the turbo
and clean it every year. This does not seem right however. Nobody does
that on a car or industrial equipment for that matter.

Has anyone any suggestion? Should I leave my engine /Max-Prop as they
are, or should I make some adjustments?

One last question on the transmission: what sort of oil should we use,
it says on it ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) but what kind? There
are now 4 different Dextron type fluid oils, does it matter which one?

I would be gratefull if someone could shed some light on those issues.
Good sailing to all.

Daniel Goffaux
On "Passion"





_________________________________________________________________
Keep track of your Singapore stock prices. http://www.msn.com.sg/money/

_________________________________________________________________
Download Norah Jones, Eminem and more! http://www.msn.com.sg/ringtones/

Hi Erick,

Thanks for the answer, you are right about the torque. Only, it still
seems strange to be so close to the maximum, as at maximum throttle, I
reach 2600 to 2700 rpm, and that gives a notch above 7 knots (not
exactly hull speed). Which means that I should cruise at 2000 to
2200, maximum, at maybe 6.5 knots. Does that sound right?

My previous boat had a Yanmar, somewhat faster reving, so this one
puzzles me.

Best regards,

Daniel Goffaux


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick MEJEAN" <maramu@h...>
wrote:

Hi Daniel

You must consider two things when you look at an engine performance.
Power output and torque. Each engine has its own power curve and torque
curve.
Both don't follow the same pattern and don't have the same meaning.
With regards to the TMD 22 it reach its peak power of 57.4 KW at

4500 RPM,

but it reach its peak torque of 162 Nm at 2400 RPM.
At 4500 RPM the torque is down to 125 Nm.
While motoring you are more interested by torque than power as

regardless of

the power you will never achieve a higher speed than the hull speed.
Running an engine at its best torque does not make it labouring the

sea as

it is the time when the engine has the more strength.
The calculation of the propeller pitch takes into account all these

factors.

Changing the propeller pitch would be a big mistake as it will make

your

prop no longer adapted to the engine,transmission and hull specs.
Propeller companies are using extremely sophysticated software to

calculate

the size and pitch of a propeller given a boat specs.
The power will only help you to maintain a higher speed while

motoring in

choppy water or against the wind but the overall efficiency of your

engine

will be lower.
You also need to consider the consumption. While running your engine

at 2500

RPM your consumption will be in the range of 7 L/h and you will

reach your

max hull speed. Running the engine at 3500 RPM will multiply your
consumption by almost two and your speed will remain the same. Which

means

basically a fuel autonomy divided by two........
What the engine does not like is to be run at the same RPM for

hours, which

never occur to a car engine. As such to prevent the turbo clogging

every

three hours you should push your engine to 3000 RPM for around 20

min to

eliminate the carbon residues. Eventhough you run your engine at

3500 RPM

for hours without changing the RPM sooner or later you may face this

turbo

clogging problem.
Hope this will answer your questions

With best regards

Erick MEJEAN







----Original Message Follows----
From: "dgoffaux" <dgoffaux@b...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPM on Volvo TMD22A, again...!
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 20:50:03 -0000

So happy to have found this site! And to be able to find out how
others have solved various problems (few, actually, in my case) with
their Super Maramu! I purchased SM #135 last year in France (this is a
1995 model) had a good revision on all systems and crossed over to Ft
Lauderdale last December. 17 days from Gran Canary to Guadeloupe,
whithout pushing, the fishing was too good!

One thing I noticed at purchase time was that the engine, in gear,
will not go over 2700 rpm. The Volvo manual indicates a max. speed of
over 4000 rpm for the turbo version. The engine runs nicely, without
smoking and has about 2000 h. now.

The Volvo dealer in Guadeloupe said that they knew about Amel habit to
reduce RPM with the adjustment of the Max prop, a procedure whith
which they totally disagree! They recommend, at next haulout, to
adjust the Max prop as to obtain about 3,400 rpm with the engine in
gear (in neutral there is no problem to rev up).

In France, I also had the turbo dismantled and cleaned, as it was
found full of soot.

So,
1. What is the normal max rpm for the Volvo, as per Amel, and/or as
per Volvo?
2. Presumably, if the pitch of the Max prop is to high, keeping the
engine "labouring", it will induce sooting and will clog the turbo,
especially if indeed it only starts to pump at 2500 rpm or there
about. This may explain why - as I just read on various notes on this
site- one needs to rev up to maximum revolution for a few minutes
every so often. Why not, instead, have the engine running at its
recommended speed?
3. Obviously, I can see why someone recommended to remove the turbo
and clean it every year. This does not seem right however. Nobody does
that on a car or industrial equipment for that matter.

Has anyone any suggestion? Should I leave my engine /Max-Prop as they
are, or should I make some adjustments?

One last question on the transmission: what sort of oil should we use,
it says on it ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) but what kind? There
are now 4 different Dextron type fluid oils, does it matter which one?

I would be gratefull if someone could shed some light on those issues.
Good sailing to all.

Daniel Goffaux
On "Passion"





_________________________________________________________________
Keep track of your Singapore stock prices. http://www.msn.com.sg/money/