We have an Amel Fango for sale. For those who don't know the
Fango it is a 10m Sloop with many of the facilities of the larger
Amels. It is configured as a 2 berth Ocean/ 6 person day sailer.
It was commissioned in 1989 and is called "Ebbrezza".

For any one interested I will forward more information.

Rob Kyle,
rob.molly@mac.com

The advice to me from Amel Guadeloupe was to
definitely NOT attempt the Riviere Salee; there simply
isn't enough water, full or empty tanks.
There is a very nice harbor in the Northwest of
Guadeloupe, Deshayes, which some boats heading to
Antigua ignore or suppose to be not very good. I
recommend it. It makes the sail north easy, and
usually gives a straight shot to Falmouth Harbour in
any case; if the wind is a little more East, Green
Island is possible.
Best.
Claude Roessiger

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com

April 27, 2003
Hello to all. I have enjoyed reading all the messages over the last
year or so. Many useful items of information. Our Super Maramu 2000
is currently in Marina Bas du Fort, Guadeloupe. We anticipate leaving
for Antigua in a few weeks. I have received varying opinions about
whether an amel with full water tanks and full fuel tanks and moderate
load of people and junk can navigate through the Riviere Salee. Has
anyone out there done it? How recently? Any words of advice?

Shortly after reading about the failure of the fresh water pressure
accumulator tank on another Amel, ours sprung a leak. It appeared to
be a failure at the the base of the 3/4 inch pipe fitting where it is
welded to the tank. There was corrosion and the tank metal in this
area coulbe be easily penetrated with a pencil. The boat is 21 months
old. This jetted fresh water onto the genset. After drying up the
engine compartment I partially disassembled all the panels on the
genset and was able to verify that no water damage was done. I'm not
sure why this failed but I believe it was a faulty weld. This sounds
like the exact same spot that the other member had a failure. Caution
to all. You might consider probing this area gently at the neck of
the fitting with a piece of sharpened wood to see if it is thin and
about to rupture.

On a more serious note, the same day, the desalinator low pressure
feed pump suffered a catastrophic seal failure. This happened while
we sailed between Grenada and Carriacou. As we sailed we made water
and at one point the bilge alarm went off. I immedicately opened the
engine hatch only to see water sloshing back and forth in the engine
room. I jumped below and a quick lick of the water confirmed it to be
sea water. I didn't see where it was coming from initially so I
turned off the main thru hull and then isolated it to the above noted
pump. The clean up of the engine room and Boeshielding everything took
a day. Disassembly of the pump in Tyrell Bay showed severe corrosion
on the shaft of the motor which caused the shaft seal to rupture. The
pump is un-repairable because the shaft was so badly corroded. Total
time on the desalinator is 95 hours. Laurent Colonna in Guadeloupe
says he has never seen this type of failure before. To Amel's
everlasting credit (and once again proving that they are a top notch
company) they are replacing the pump under warranty. I am concerned
though about this premature failure. I have always meticulously
flushed the system with fresh water after every use. I did have the
boat on the hard in Grenada for 5 months during the hurricaine season
and wondered if crevice corrosion occured under the seal from the
stagnant water. The other possibility is that the anchor wash-down
pump (that has leaked since new despite Laurents best efforts to seal
it)that sits next too the desalinator pump had allowed salt water onto
the exposed portion of the motor shaft thus causing the corrosion.
Has anyone else had this problem? When the boat will be inactive for
a period of time would it be better to completely empty the water
lines and pumps rather than just flusing them all with fresh water? I
would be interested in other peoples experience. Still the Amel is a
great boat and Chantiers Amel is a great company with great people.
Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona Hull # 335

Hi Daniel
You should be able to reach 2900 RPM at full throttle. I understand from your previous message that your engine seems not to have any problem to reach high reps in neutral gear. It probably means that your prop. is not very clean. With regards to the top speed you should be able to reach it at around 2700 RPM with a clean hull, in good weather condition. Clean hull means right after an antifouling treatment and not one or two months later.Talking about speed, check the GPS speed and the B&G information. If no current they should be the same.
Personally on long passages (several days) I run the engine at around 2200 which gives me a speed in the range of 7 - knots depending on the hull cleanness.

Erick MEJEAN
Best regards







----Original Message Follows----
From: "dgoffaux" <dgoffaux@bhkmining.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPM on Volvo TMD22A, again...!
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 19:24:38 -0000

Hi Erick,

Thanks for the answer, you are right about the torque. Only, it still
seems strange to be so close to the maximum, as at maximum throttle, I
reach 2600 to 2700 rpm, and that gives a notch above 7 knots (not
exactly hull speed). Which means that I should cruise at 2000 to
2200, maximum, at maybe 6.5 knots. Does that sound right?

My previous boat had a Yanmar, somewhat faster reving, so this one
puzzles me.

Best regards,

Daniel Goffaux


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick MEJEAN" <maramu@h...>
wrote:

Hi Daniel

You must consider two things when you look at an engine performance.
Power output and torque. Each engine has its own power curve and torque
curve.
Both don't follow the same pattern and don't have the same meaning.
With regards to the TMD 22 it reach its peak power of 57.4 KW at

4500 RPM,

but it reach its peak torque of 162 Nm at 2400 RPM.
At 4500 RPM the torque is down to 125 Nm.
While motoring you are more interested by torque than power as

regardless of

the power you will never achieve a higher speed than the hull speed.
Running an engine at its best torque does not make it labouring the

sea as

it is the time when the engine has the more strength.
The calculation of the propeller pitch takes into account all these

factors.

Changing the propeller pitch would be a big mistake as it will make

your

prop no longer adapted to the engine,transmission and hull specs.
Propeller companies are using extremely sophysticated software to

calculate

the size and pitch of a propeller given a boat specs.
The power will only help you to maintain a higher speed while

motoring in

choppy water or against the wind but the overall efficiency of your

engine

will be lower.
You also need to consider the consumption. While running your engine

at 2500

RPM your consumption will be in the range of 7 L/h and you will

reach your

max hull speed. Running the engine at 3500 RPM will multiply your
consumption by almost two and your speed will remain the same. Which

means

basically a fuel autonomy divided by two........
What the engine does not like is to be run at the same RPM for

hours, which

never occur to a car engine. As such to prevent the turbo clogging

every

three hours you should push your engine to 3000 RPM for around 20

min to

eliminate the carbon residues. Eventhough you run your engine at

3500 RPM

for hours without changing the RPM sooner or later you may face this

turbo

clogging problem.
Hope this will answer your questions

With best regards

Erick MEJEAN







----Original Message Follows----
From: "dgoffaux" <dgoffaux@b...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPM on Volvo TMD22A, again...!
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 20:50:03 -0000

So happy to have found this site! And to be able to find out how
others have solved various problems (few, actually, in my case) with
their Super Maramu! I purchased SM #135 last year in France (this is a
1995 model) had a good revision on all systems and crossed over to Ft
Lauderdale last December. 17 days from Gran Canary to Guadeloupe,
whithout pushing, the fishing was too good!

One thing I noticed at purchase time was that the engine, in gear,
will not go over 2700 rpm. The Volvo manual indicates a max. speed of
over 4000 rpm for the turbo version. The engine runs nicely, without
smoking and has about 2000 h. now.

The Volvo dealer in Guadeloupe said that they knew about Amel habit to
reduce RPM with the adjustment of the Max prop, a procedure whith
which they totally disagree! They recommend, at next haulout, to
adjust the Max prop as to obtain about 3,400 rpm with the engine in
gear (in neutral there is no problem to rev up).

In France, I also had the turbo dismantled and cleaned, as it was
found full of soot.

So,
1. What is the normal max rpm for the Volvo, as per Amel, and/or as
per Volvo?
2. Presumably, if the pitch of the Max prop is to high, keeping the
engine "labouring", it will induce sooting and will clog the turbo,
especially if indeed it only starts to pump at 2500 rpm or there
about. This may explain why - as I just read on various notes on this
site- one needs to rev up to maximum revolution for a few minutes
every so often. Why not, instead, have the engine running at its
recommended speed?
3. Obviously, I can see why someone recommended to remove the turbo
and clean it every year. This does not seem right however. Nobody does
that on a car or industrial equipment for that matter.

Has anyone any suggestion? Should I leave my engine /Max-Prop as they
are, or should I make some adjustments?

One last question on the transmission: what sort of oil should we use,
it says on it ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) but what kind? There
are now 4 different Dextron type fluid oils, does it matter which one?

I would be gratefull if someone could shed some light on those issues.
Good sailing to all.

Daniel Goffaux
On "Passion"





_________________________________________________________________
Keep track of your Singapore stock prices. http://www.msn.com.sg/money/

_________________________________________________________________
Download Norah Jones, Eminem and more! http://www.msn.com.sg/ringtones/

Hi Erick,

Thanks for the answer, you are right about the torque. Only, it still
seems strange to be so close to the maximum, as at maximum throttle, I
reach 2600 to 2700 rpm, and that gives a notch above 7 knots (not
exactly hull speed). Which means that I should cruise at 2000 to
2200, maximum, at maybe 6.5 knots. Does that sound right?

My previous boat had a Yanmar, somewhat faster reving, so this one
puzzles me.

Best regards,

Daniel Goffaux


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick MEJEAN" <maramu@h...>
wrote:

Hi Daniel

You must consider two things when you look at an engine performance.
Power output and torque. Each engine has its own power curve and torque
curve.
Both don't follow the same pattern and don't have the same meaning.
With regards to the TMD 22 it reach its peak power of 57.4 KW at

4500 RPM,

but it reach its peak torque of 162 Nm at 2400 RPM.
At 4500 RPM the torque is down to 125 Nm.
While motoring you are more interested by torque than power as

regardless of

the power you will never achieve a higher speed than the hull speed.
Running an engine at its best torque does not make it labouring the

sea as

it is the time when the engine has the more strength.
The calculation of the propeller pitch takes into account all these

factors.

Changing the propeller pitch would be a big mistake as it will make

your

prop no longer adapted to the engine,transmission and hull specs.
Propeller companies are using extremely sophysticated software to

calculate

the size and pitch of a propeller given a boat specs.
The power will only help you to maintain a higher speed while

motoring in

choppy water or against the wind but the overall efficiency of your

engine

will be lower.
You also need to consider the consumption. While running your engine

at 2500

RPM your consumption will be in the range of 7 L/h and you will

reach your

max hull speed. Running the engine at 3500 RPM will multiply your
consumption by almost two and your speed will remain the same. Which

means

basically a fuel autonomy divided by two........
What the engine does not like is to be run at the same RPM for

hours, which

never occur to a car engine. As such to prevent the turbo clogging

every

three hours you should push your engine to 3000 RPM for around 20

min to

eliminate the carbon residues. Eventhough you run your engine at

3500 RPM

for hours without changing the RPM sooner or later you may face this

turbo

clogging problem.
Hope this will answer your questions

With best regards

Erick MEJEAN







----Original Message Follows----
From: "dgoffaux" <dgoffaux@b...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPM on Volvo TMD22A, again...!
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 20:50:03 -0000

So happy to have found this site! And to be able to find out how
others have solved various problems (few, actually, in my case) with
their Super Maramu! I purchased SM #135 last year in France (this is a
1995 model) had a good revision on all systems and crossed over to Ft
Lauderdale last December. 17 days from Gran Canary to Guadeloupe,
whithout pushing, the fishing was too good!

One thing I noticed at purchase time was that the engine, in gear,
will not go over 2700 rpm. The Volvo manual indicates a max. speed of
over 4000 rpm for the turbo version. The engine runs nicely, without
smoking and has about 2000 h. now.

The Volvo dealer in Guadeloupe said that they knew about Amel habit to
reduce RPM with the adjustment of the Max prop, a procedure whith
which they totally disagree! They recommend, at next haulout, to
adjust the Max prop as to obtain about 3,400 rpm with the engine in
gear (in neutral there is no problem to rev up).

In France, I also had the turbo dismantled and cleaned, as it was
found full of soot.

So,
1. What is the normal max rpm for the Volvo, as per Amel, and/or as
per Volvo?
2. Presumably, if the pitch of the Max prop is to high, keeping the
engine "labouring", it will induce sooting and will clog the turbo,
especially if indeed it only starts to pump at 2500 rpm or there
about. This may explain why - as I just read on various notes on this
site- one needs to rev up to maximum revolution for a few minutes
every so often. Why not, instead, have the engine running at its
recommended speed?
3. Obviously, I can see why someone recommended to remove the turbo
and clean it every year. This does not seem right however. Nobody does
that on a car or industrial equipment for that matter.

Has anyone any suggestion? Should I leave my engine /Max-Prop as they
are, or should I make some adjustments?

One last question on the transmission: what sort of oil should we use,
it says on it ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) but what kind? There
are now 4 different Dextron type fluid oils, does it matter which one?

I would be gratefull if someone could shed some light on those issues.
Good sailing to all.

Daniel Goffaux
On "Passion"





_________________________________________________________________
Keep track of your Singapore stock prices. http://www.msn.com.sg/money/

Hi Daniel

You must consider two things when you look at an engine performance.
Power output and torque. Each engine has its own power curve and torque curve.
Both don't follow the same pattern and don't have the same meaning.
With regards to the TMD 22 it reach its peak power of 57.4 KW at 4500 RPM, but it reach its peak torque of 162 Nm at 2400 RPM.
At 4500 RPM the torque is down to 125 Nm.
While motoring you are more interested by torque than power as regardless of the power you will never achieve a higher speed than the hull speed.
Running an engine at its best torque does not make it labouring the sea as it is the time when the engine has the more strength.
The calculation of the propeller pitch takes into account all these factors. Changing the propeller pitch would be a big mistake as it will make your prop no longer adapted to the engine,transmission and hull specs.
Propeller companies are using extremely sophysticated software to calculate the size and pitch of a propeller given a boat specs.
The power will only help you to maintain a higher speed while motoring in choppy water or against the wind but the overall efficiency of your engine will be lower.
You also need to consider the consumption. While running your engine at 2500 RPM your consumption will be in the range of 7 L/h and you will reach your max hull speed. Running the engine at 3500 RPM will multiply your consumption by almost two and your speed will remain the same. Which means basically a fuel autonomy divided by two........
What the engine does not like is to be run at the same RPM for hours, which never occur to a car engine. As such to prevent the turbo clogging every three hours you should push your engine to 3000 RPM for around 20 min to eliminate the carbon residues. Eventhough you run your engine at 3500 RPM for hours without changing the RPM sooner or later you may face this turbo clogging problem.
Hope this will answer your questions

With best regards

Erick MEJEAN







----Original Message Follows----
From: "dgoffaux" <dgoffaux@bhkmining.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPM on Volvo TMD22A, again...!
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 20:50:03 -0000

So happy to have found this site! And to be able to find out how
others have solved various problems (few, actually, in my case) with
their Super Maramu! I purchased SM #135 last year in France (this is a
1995 model) had a good revision on all systems and crossed over to Ft
Lauderdale last December. 17 days from Gran Canary to Guadeloupe,
whithout pushing, the fishing was too good!

One thing I noticed at purchase time was that the engine, in gear,
will not go over 2700 rpm. The Volvo manual indicates a max. speed of
over 4000 rpm for the turbo version. The engine runs nicely, without
smoking and has about 2000 h. now.

The Volvo dealer in Guadeloupe said that they knew about Amel habit to
reduce RPM with the adjustment of the Max prop, a procedure whith
which they totally disagree! They recommend, at next haulout, to
adjust the Max prop as to obtain about 3,400 rpm with the engine in
gear (in neutral there is no problem to rev up).

In France, I also had the turbo dismantled and cleaned, as it was
found full of soot.

So,
1. What is the normal max rpm for the Volvo, as per Amel, and/or as
per Volvo?
2. Presumably, if the pitch of the Max prop is to high, keeping the
engine "labouring", it will induce sooting and will clog the turbo,
especially if indeed it only starts to pump at 2500 rpm or there
about. This may explain why - as I just read on various notes on this
site- one needs to rev up to maximum revolution for a few minutes
every so often. Why not, instead, have the engine running at its
recommended speed?
3. Obviously, I can see why someone recommended to remove the turbo
and clean it every year. This does not seem right however. Nobody does
that on a car or industrial equipment for that matter.

Has anyone any suggestion? Should I leave my engine /Max-Prop as they
are, or should I make some adjustments?

One last question on the transmission: what sort of oil should we use,
it says on it ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) but what kind? There
are now 4 different Dextron type fluid oils, does it matter which one?

I would be gratefull if someone could shed some light on those issues.
Good sailing to all.

Daniel Goffaux
On "Passion"





_________________________________________________________________
Keep track of your Singapore stock prices. http://www.msn.com.sg/money/

So happy to have found this site! And to be able to find out how
others have solved various problems (few, actually, in my case) with
their Super Maramu! I purchased SM #135 last year in France (this is a
1995 model) had a good revision on all systems and crossed over to Ft
Lauderdale last December. 17 days from Gran Canary to Guadeloupe,
whithout pushing, the fishing was too good!

One thing I noticed at purchase time was that the engine, in gear,
will not go over 2700 rpm. The Volvo manual indicates a max. speed of
over 4000 rpm for the turbo version. The engine runs nicely, without
smoking and has about 2000 h. now.

The Volvo dealer in Guadeloupe said that they knew about Amel habit to
reduce RPM with the adjustment of the Max prop, a procedure whith
which they totally disagree! They recommend, at next haulout, to
adjust the Max prop as to obtain about 3,400 rpm with the engine in
gear (in neutral there is no problem to rev up).

In France, I also had the turbo dismantled and cleaned, as it was
found full of soot.

So,
1. What is the normal max rpm for the Volvo, as per Amel, and/or as
per Volvo?
2. Presumably, if the pitch of the Max prop is to high, keeping the
engine "labouring", it will induce sooting and will clog the turbo,
especially if indeed it only starts to pump at 2500 rpm or there
about. This may explain why - as I just read on various notes on this
site- one needs to rev up to maximum revolution for a few minutes
every so often. Why not, instead, have the engine running at its
recommended speed?
3. Obviously, I can see why someone recommended to remove the turbo
and clean it every year. This does not seem right however. Nobody does
that on a car or industrial equipment for that matter.

Has anyone any suggestion? Should I leave my engine /Max-Prop as they
are, or should I make some adjustments?

One last question on the transmission: what sort of oil should we use,
it says on it ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) but what kind? There
are now 4 different Dextron type fluid oils, does it matter which one?

I would be gratefull if someone could shed some light on those issues.
Good sailing to all.

Daniel Goffaux
On "Passion"

Hi,

I have SM #135 and recently changed the original 50 amp charger for a
Mastervolt 100 amp, with smart regulation. And I began to burn all my
halogen bulbs because the charger goes to 28.5 V. The solution was to
switch to 28V bulbs, as recommended by Mastervolt. I have had no
problem since, but cannot tell yet how long they will last.

Good Luck.

Daniel Goffaux
on "Passion"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Stephan Regulinski"
<stephreg@y...> wrote:

When installing the halogen bulbs, you MUST clean the bulb first

with

alcohol and then not touch it with your fingers. This is true even
if you remove the bulb from the package without touching it. These
bulbs are exceptionally sensitive to contamination. I keep a small
bottle of alcohol in the same tupperware box as the spare halogen
bulbs. My bulb life is up dramatically.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "the Lundstroms"
<linneasail@h...> wrote:

Untitled DocumentWe have had "Linnea" fore about 9 months (hull

#366). We have to change our interior light bulbs all the time
(particular the small halogen ones). Even though we try to not have
all the lights on, we end up switching out about 2-3 light bulbs

per

week.

When we talked to Amel about it a while back, they explained that

the problem is with the "Smart Charger" (an option we bought)

because

it pushes the voltage up to 28V frequently (when you are on shore
power) which is to much for the halogen light bulbs. This makes

lots

of sense, but it's still frustrating to switch out light bulbs all
the time.

Does anybody else have the same problem?


S/Y Linnea
Walter Lundstrom

Hi,
I have not seen an answer to this request, but I have exactly the
same need, for the same program; I had contacted Amel, who said they
did not have the polars (?!), so I am wondering if someone took the
time to build one?

Thanks,
Daniel Goffaux,
on Passion (SM135)

I have just bought a Super Mistral Sport, number 177. Where can I
find additional information about this ship ?

Thanks,
Erik Windmeijer
The Netherlands

Dear Amel Owners,

While it is true that I am Amel's only associate for North and South
American sales, I offer the following strictly as an Amel owner. (hull # 400
of the SUPER MARAMU). This does not, necessarily, reflect the views of my
associates in La Rochelle.

For years I have recommended the ATN GALE SAIL to my Amel clients. I have
some personal experience with this storm sail and it works as represented by
ATN. As with any piece of gear, I highly recommend you play with it before
you absolutely positively have to use it.

If you contact ATN here in Fort Lauderdale at: Phone: (800) 874-3671,
(954) 523-3034
or Email sail@atninc.com and tell him that "Joel sent me", he will give
you my discounted price from retail on this essential piece of equipment.
You can view his web site at www.atninc.com

All the best
Joel F. Potter

cc: ATN

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Anne and John Hollamby
<hollamby@c...> wrote:

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

May I suggest that drilling or better punching a hole in the

centre of the

upper outlet flap and using a small countersunk machine screw and

nut to

secure a washer or two on top of the flap to weight it down. I

would have

thought that a hacksaw blade would be too strong and be subject to

severe

rusting.

Regards from John Hollamby Bali Hai SM319

Good thinking. Scratch the hacksaw blade, add the washers. So far,
however, my piece of plastic (cut from a wire tie) continues to hold
up nicely and the pump has now worked flawlessly for several weeks.
Apparently, it only needs a little extra "umph" to get it to close
properly.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:

what type of storm sails have been used on the sm and kind of

drogue

or sae anchor?
has anyone flown a storm sail or used a drogue?
thanks
eric freedman
kimberlite

Eric,

I have a ATN Gale Sail for my SMM (#303). It wraps around the genoa
and is hoisted by the spare halyard. I have used it several times,
most recently in a storm (winds gusting north of 50, where the speed
indicator tops out) in route from Portugal to the Canaries. We flew
this sail for about a day and a half, till the storm played out. I
am very happy with the performance and recommend the sail to those
who plan to do more than coastal cruising.

Since you must go forward to the forstay to raise this sail, you
must think about using it as you do reefing: raise the sail when it
first occurs to you that you might need it. Also, since the genoa
sheets must be removed from the car and turning block, tie these
sheets securelly down well aft of the bow so they don't get tossed
into something important. The Gail Sale has its own sheets. (I
tied mine at the bow once and the hanked sheet took out the
starboard running light.)

I won a Drogue, but have never used it.

Stephan

Arnold, goodmorning

We'd be very interested to hear more about your SuperMaramu.

Please contact us via - brennan@webone.com.au

Many thanks Rob and Glen Brennan


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, pagandaisy <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

I am thinking of selling my 1994 Super Maramu as now living in
California it is just too much of a hassle to get to the

Caribbean.

She is currently at the dock in Tortola, ready to go.

Arnold Grubin

Dear ArnoldWe have been in contact before about your boat.I would be very interested in selling the boat for you as we have a number of clients looking for Supermaramu's.What price are you looking at for the boat?I am a broker with Bollman Yachts in Ft Lauderdale and have a Maramu in my listings at present.Email me at derek@bollmanyachts.comCheers Derek

pagandaisy <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:I am thinking of selling my 1994 Super Maramu as now living in
California it is just too much of a hassle to get to the Caribbean.
She is currently at the dock in Tortola, ready to go.

Arnold Grubin



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Hello

I am about to undertake the installation of an Icom 802 on my Super
Maramu. It seems a straightforward installation. I have several
questions.

1- The SM comes prewired for an SSB. There are 3 wires behind the
removable pannel by the nav station marked BLU 24v. It looks to me as
this is a 24v positive, negative and also a ground. The wires are of
sufficient gage that they can take the voltage. Is this part of the
prewire and is this where the SSB tranmsmitter should be grounded.

2- The antena tuner that is installed in the lazarette. Is there a
ground plate installed in the SM. Is there a grounding point in the
lazarette or should I run the antena ground back to the same point as
the tuner.

3- Is there anything that I should do to help the performance of the
SSB.

Thank You in advance.

Vito

ASM#283

Hi

Does anyone have performance polars for the Super maramu. I have
purchased the Max Sea program and its routing function needs polars
in order to work. Does Amel have this information.

You can E-mail the file to me or better upload it on this site.

Vciaravino@galaxyprint.com

Thank you

Vito Ciaravino
ASM#283

I am thinking of selling my 1994 Super Maramu as now living in
California it is just too much of a hassle to get to the Caribbean.
She is currently at the dock in Tortola, ready to go.

Arnold Grubin

Szabo we did the same on our Euros Beryl Grey and it was simply hard
work by hand finished with sand paper and then resprayed and the lining
renewed. It was a good idea about sharing info on the Euros models.
Roger Osborne (U.K.)

Hi Geza,

I have recently purchased an 1984 Maramu, which had all the head linings
replaced last year, for exactly that reason.
I believe they did use acetone, but beware the fumes.

Apparently it took a long time, and was a really tough job (especially as
all the fittings had to come out and then go back).
But now it does look great.

all the best < Amer (Synnefoula 84 Maramu).