Hi All!

The foam backed headliner/ wallcovering that Amel used
in 1979 on my Euros 41 is falling down/off as it seems
the foam has dissolved. I know that this is a common
problem.

How can you remove the foam from the ceiling or the sidewall?
I tries Aceton, it's working, but very slowly and messy.

Any better idea?

Cheers

Geza Szabo
http://www.rotorman.hu/0hajo/a_hajo.htm

I ordered directly from
http://www.ifmefector.com/ifmus/web/home.htm. Unfortunately I have
not the Part-No by hand. The Part-No is written on the chain counter.
Best regards
Hanspeter Wehrli SM #158


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Vicente Pereda"
<VPEREDA@t...> wrote:

Hallo everybody,
I am trying to replace the chain counter in the cockpit in my SM

sn 107.

Does anybody Know were to get one of those for chain of 10 mm.?
Thanks in advance.
Vicente

I got one from Pochon.

Jerry

"Vicente Pereda" <VPEREDA@telefonica.net> wrote:

Hallo everybody,
I am trying to replace the chain counter in the cockpit in my SM sn 107.
Does anybody Know were to get one of those for chain of 10 mm.?
Thanks in advance.
Vicente

Stephan,
You are the only person whom I have found, that has actually used a
Gale Sail. I posted a request for information some months ago at the
SSCA web-site on this subject and did not get a response from anyone
with first hand knowledge. I would like to ask you two questions.
First, what size sail did you buy for your SMM and do you still feel
you bought the optimum size?
Second, if conditions deteriorated to the point that you wanted to
take down the Gale Sail, do you think it would come down in a blow or
do you think you would need a downhaul line?
Thanks,
Ed Steele (SMM#331 DoodleBug)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Stephan Regulinski"
<stephreg@y...> wrote:

I bought a Gale Sail for my SMM (#303) and have used it a number of
times. It the most recent use, we used it to make modest progress

in

sailing through a 50, gusting 60 storm. The trick in raising this
sail is the same as for reefing: raise the sail when it first

occurs

to you that you might need it. If you wait, you'll be trying to
raise it while waves crash over you. (I have done this also and
suggest using harness and tether.) My second suggestion is that

the

genoa sheets by tied off securely well aft of the nav lights. I

tied

my sheets to the rail at the pulpet and lost the starboard deck-

level

nav light when waves pounded the coiled sheet into the light.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 wrote:

Thanks Richard<br><br>I have seen this product. I always wondered

what it would be like to raise this sail in a gale with a good sea.
Has anyone tried this.<br><br>Vito

what type of storm sails have been used on the sm and kind of drogue
or sae anchor?
has anyone flown a storm sail or used a drogue?
thanks
eric freedman
kimberlite

Many thanks for the advice.
Regards
Millie & Chris
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "closereach"
<closereach@y...> wrote:

Millie and Chris,
In the summer of 2001 I unstepped both masts and replaced all the
rigging. After restepping, the way I have tensioned the rig has

been

progressively to sail to stronger winds. While on one tack I'll
tighten up on the loose shrouds, tack, then do the same to the

other

side. All the time, of course, checking that the mast stays
perfectly in column. If not, I'll tighten a bit more on the

opposite

side that the top of the mast is bending off to. Do this first in
light winds, then 10 to 15 knots then 15 to 20 knots.
Concerning the headstay or backstay, I don't have any systematic

way

to go about that other than trying to minimize the sag in the
headstay foil (and of course keeping the mast in column!).

The welded 'tangs' on our Nirvana masts keep the spreaders at a
particular angle. Sounds like you have something different. The
angle does manner, as you want the spreaders to bisect the angle

the

shrouds make from the mast attachment tang to the chainplate. They
should never droop down.

We have a bit of gelcoat on the aft cabin top flake off over time

so

we sanded this area down and applied the nonskid material
Treadmaster SP. It's worked great--still non-skid but much much

more

human-friendly than the standard Treadmaster pattern.

Hope that helps.

Richard
Xanareva, sharki #127

Hi Stephan.
The cheapest and probaly most efficient way in terms of output is to use a DC/DC converter from Targus ( http://www.targus.com ).
Input is between 8 to 16V and output will be according to your computer as long as you pick the right model.
You will get the 12V DC from the existing 12 v socket. This 12V comes from the DC/DC adaptor feeding the B&G Hydra centrale. This will spare you the use of a converter which will defenitely have a higher current consumption.
I used to use a converter but I swich to this Targus DC/DC adaptor and I find it much beter and convenient
Best regards
Erick MEJEAN





----Original Message Follows----
From: "Stephan Regulinski" <stephreg@yahoo.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Notebooks on board for SM electrical wireing
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 18:14:24 -0000

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Hanspeter Bttig
<hanspeter.baettig@b...> wrote:

Can anyone tell me how he installed his notebook in terms of the

electrical supply. I need to connect 2 notebooks; one in a drawer
under the radar and one in the foreward cabin for the children.

Is a e.g. 200 W converter (12V/220V the right choise. Were do you

connect the 12 V, maybe from the television panel? Is a converter
24V to 220V availabal on the market. I did not found one so far in
Switzerland.

Hanspeter Baettig
SM#16

Hans,

I had Amel install a 24v to 110v inverter in the hanging locker for
my US-purchased electronics. The same inverter can be purchased in
any combination of 12/24v DC to 110/220v AC. Check the West Marine
catalogue or westmarine.com online. It is a pure sine wave inverter
and works wonderfully for my printers as well. I bought a 1000W
inverter which is a little expensive, but powers everyting.

Stephan
SM2000 #303



_________________________________________________________________
Take a break! Find destinations on MSN Travel. http://www.msn.com.sg/travel/

Millie and Chris,
In the summer of 2001 I unstepped both masts and replaced all the
rigging. After restepping, the way I have tensioned the rig has been
progressively to sail to stronger winds. While on one tack I'll
tighten up on the loose shrouds, tack, then do the same to the other
side. All the time, of course, checking that the mast stays
perfectly in column. If not, I'll tighten a bit more on the opposite
side that the top of the mast is bending off to. Do this first in
light winds, then 10 to 15 knots then 15 to 20 knots.
Concerning the headstay or backstay, I don't have any systematic way
to go about that other than trying to minimize the sag in the
headstay foil (and of course keeping the mast in column!).

The welded 'tangs' on our Nirvana masts keep the spreaders at a
particular angle. Sounds like you have something different. The
angle does manner, as you want the spreaders to bisect the angle the
shrouds make from the mast attachment tang to the chainplate. They
should never droop down.

We have a bit of gelcoat on the aft cabin top flake off over time so
we sanded this area down and applied the nonskid material
Treadmaster SP. It's worked great--still non-skid but much much more
human-friendly than the standard Treadmaster pattern.

Hope that helps.

Richard
Xanareva, sharki #127

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

If you mean a wire antenna the simple solution is to put ceramic insulators
in the starboard mizzen backstay, the top one being about four or five feet
down from the top and the lower one being about five feet up from the deck
so you do not burn anyone who is using it as a hand hold whilst you are
transmitting. The insulators are easily secured to the backstay and totally
safe but a bit expensive. The alternative cheap route is to get two ceramic
"eggs" like the ones used in the stays of telegraph poles etc but this will
not be cheap by the time you have changed the existing rigging wire with a
flexible type. Bali Hai was supplied with ground plates and a good copper
ground strap already installed together with a wooden plate glassed in to
the hull just between the deck and the shelf in the lazarette. This is to
secure the antenna tuning unit in a spot where it is possible to connect
the copper strap directly and to take the live antenna wire,insulated but
not screened, by the shortest route up to the lower insulator to which it
should be secured with a tube clip and covered in silicone to try to
postpone corrosion of the lead wire. You will probably have to mount the
ATU horizontally because of space restrictions, in this event it is a good
idea to drill a small drain hole in the lowest part in case some water gets
in. There is often such a hole made by the manufacturers in the bottom
which is now the side and a blob of silicone would not come amiss.

Good luck with it, John Hollamby

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

The crash bar sounds good but you will need a ring welded on at each end to
take a webbing safety belt.
Bali Hai was suppllied fitted with securing points for a belt between the
peninsular unit just to port of the back of the washing machine and
opposite on the sink unit. A steel bar across the end might catch parts
even more sensitive than ribs.

Regards, John and Anne Hollamby

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

May I suggest that drilling or better punching a hole in the centre of the
upper outlet flap and using a small countersunk machine screw and nut to
secure a washer or two on top of the flap to weight it down. I would have
thought that a hacksaw blade would be too strong and be subject to severe
rusting.

Regards from John Hollamby Bali Hai SM319

Hello postmaster,

i wonder why my e-mail adress shows completely, while the ones from
all the others is partially hidden.

thanks for keeping this group up.

so long

tom

When installing the halogen bulbs, you MUST clean the bulb first with
alcohol and then not touch it with your fingers. This is true even
if you remove the bulb from the package without touching it. These
bulbs are exceptionally sensitive to contamination. I keep a small
bottle of alcohol in the same tupperware box as the spare halogen
bulbs. My bulb life is up dramatically.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "the Lundstroms"
<linneasail@h...> wrote:

Untitled DocumentWe have had "Linnea" fore about 9 months (hull

#366). We have to change our interior light bulbs all the time
(particular the small halogen ones). Even though we try to not have
all the lights on, we end up switching out about 2-3 light bulbs per
week.

When we talked to Amel about it a while back, they explained that

the problem is with the "Smart Charger" (an option we bought) because
it pushes the voltage up to 28V frequently (when you are on shore
power) which is to much for the halogen light bulbs. This makes lots
of sense, but it's still frustrating to switch out light bulbs all
the time.

Does anybody else have the same problem?


S/Y Linnea
Walter Lundstrom

This is correct. When you start the engine the brake is released when you
stop the engine the brake is engaged. On "Alma Libre" I have installed the
system in order to load the batteries from the propeller rotating with the
engine stopped. It is a switch with a solenoid that do not allow the brake
to engage when you stop the engine.

Best Regards


Dimitris Krassopoulos




Mobile GSM: +306944302318
Email: dkra@almalibre.gr <mailto:dkra@almalibre.gr>
Web: www.almalibre.gr <http://www.almalibre.gr/>

MY SM #347 HAS A YANMAR ENGINE AND ZF HURTH TRANSMISSION WITH
HYDRAULIC PROP BRAKE. WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, THE PROP DOES
NOT TURN. HOWEVER IF I AM RUNING THE ENGINE IN NEUTRAL WHILE SAILING
THE PROP DOES TURN. I SUSPECT ONCE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AND DEVELOPS
HYDRAULIC POWER, THIS RELEASES THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE. COMMENTS, PLEASE.
JOHN FOLINO

Hello all:
I am presently the owner of a Valiant 32, a stout, wonderful cruising sailboat, but a bit small for my needs. We are thinking of moving up, and are considering a Sharki. I would appreciate any information, good or bad, on this model: those of you sailing one, have you been happy with her? Have there been any common problems with an older Sharki (like blisters with some of the early Valiants)? I would also like to know how many have been built, whether the factory is still building them, etc.
I know this asks for what may be a lot of information. So, thanks very much in advance for any information or for sources.
Fair winds, Richard Solomon; s/v Klarissa; Santa Barbara, California

Hello members,

does anybody in this group has further experience with this engine
type and the Borg Warner hydraulic gear box.

My questions are:

1. Does the propeller shaft need to be fixed during sailing or may
the prop turn as in the conventional mechanical gear boxes?

2. What type of oil for this gearbox ?

3. Any idea whom to contacht for service in Germany ?

Best regards

Joachim
Kirk # 81 -Assis-

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Knipping-Werbung@t... wrote:

Dear colleagues,

we are going to repaint the surface of our ship's (Euros 41 from
1975) hull below and above the water line. So first of all the
fouling has to be removed. What kind of machine and sanding paper

or

device is best to do this? Then: What kind of tool or machine is

the

best for sanding and preparing the surface above the water line
without damaging the gelcoat or removing intact layers of paint.
There are too many kinds and grain types of sanding papers, nets,
brushes etc. I just cannot decide what to buy. One problem being

that

I am in Germany and have to buy things here while the ship stays in
Greece.
--
With best regards, Martin

Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant- nehmen. Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80% der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf oberhalb der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim

I bought a Gale Sail for my SMM (#303) and have used it a number of
times. It the most recent use, we used it to make modest progress in
sailing through a 50, gusting 60 storm. The trick in raising this
sail is the same as for reefing: raise the sail when it first occurs
to you that you might need it. If you wait, you'll be trying to
raise it while waves crash over you. (I have done this also and
suggest using harness and tether.) My second suggestion is that the
genoa sheets by tied off securely well aft of the nav lights. I tied
my sheets to the rail at the pulpet and lost the starboard deck-level
nav light when waves pounded the coiled sheet into the light.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 wrote:

Thanks Richard<br><br>I have seen this product. I always wondered

what it would be like to raise this sail in a gale with a good sea.
Has anyone tried this.<br><br>Vito