Date   

Desalinator Shutdown

pellegrini1942 <afpellegrini@...>
 

I am having a problem with my desalinator shutting down, that is
tripping the circuit breaker on the 220v panel in the galley after
about 12 minutes of operation. I have tried it with nothing else
operating but it does not seem to have any effect.
I do not have a water leak and I think the problem is electrical. I see
on the "posts" that the circuit breaker may need to be reset. Can
anyone confirm this?
Please advise.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
SM2000 Voyageur #373


Lost Keel, insurance,and extent of damage.

Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hello Dan,
Very sorry to read about your accident, which I suspect will be the beginning of a long and frustrating process
To answer your questions may I first point out that you are not in a do it yourself situation and so there is little point in you hoping to reseal the leaks. To look inside a water tank remove the toe board at the base of the fridge, two screws, lift the floorboard under the door mat at the bottom of the steps, 4 screws, and then reach under the blue fibreglass floorboard to find a black knob similar to the ones on the flap to the gas locker. undo it and remove the board to see the top of the access plate for the middle water tank. It is not very big and the Amel technicians who repaired the leak on my keel brought two specially made tools with them. One was a cold chisel welded onto the end of a stainless tube about four or five feet long and the other was a similar tool with a socket spanner head to fit the nuts on the keel bolts after the chisel had removed all the special epoxy ? used to seal them in.
No to see all the keel bolts you will also have to remove the fridge under the seat at the table. The tanks are part of the GRP hull. The top of the keel bolts are visible in the three fresh water tanks and also in the grey water tank. See the plans in your documentation. There are fourteen bolts in all.
I am astonished that your keel was sheared off and I would be amazed if this happened without doing major damage to the remainder of the keel/hull. If the repairs are not done to the highest standard the boat will be unsafe and unseaworthy. and I suspect that if you then sold it and there was further trouble with the weakened structure that it would be a fruitful source for litigation.
I think you must expect to have a lot of aggravation over the next couple of years whilst it is all sorted out.
I had an Oyster 435 which was severely damaged by Hurricane Bob when we were in Newport Harbour, Rhode Island. I notified insurers in the UK who appointed a Boston loss adjuster who appointed a Newport yacht surveyor. He inspected the boat and drew up a spec which he sent to a dozen boat yards and got about ten quotes ranging from $55,000 to $ 212,000 to I will not quote unless I am paid upfront. I was unable to find a surveyor to act for me and produce a better spec and the matter dragged on for months. Being unable to cope or understand the US system I paid for the wreck to be shipped back to the UK where I appointed a well recommended Surveror who produced a spec which went to tender to three top yards and produced three prices ranging from 75,000 to 78,000 ($150,000 to $166,000. We then had a meeting with my insurance broker and the "good" surveyor who said that he could proceed no further acting for me in negotiations with insurers etc as his primary clients were the insurance companies. For my money he was a whore.
I then had the problem that we were cruising en route for the South Pacific in another Oyster that we had bought as it was clear that the damage etc would take a long time. My surveyor had deserted me and I had noone else to oversee the repairs. The result was that the works were done without proper supervision. The insurance company insisted that I signed a form saying that I accepted the settlement of 75,000 in full and final settlement and I stupidly agreed. When the works were being done they found that the engine was ruined and fitted a new one at my expense but in such a way that the watermaker had to be scrapped. This increased the cost by about 9,000 which I had to pay.
I assume that you are insured and so I strongly advise that you find a top surveyor to act on your behalf and that he consult with Amel on how to deal with the repair. I do not suppose that you are the first and only unfortunate to shear off a keel and they have all the expertise. If it were me I would fight tooth and nail to have my insurers pay for the repair to be done by Amel and if they will not agree to compromise by paying for the shipment back to Amel if indeed Amel are prepared to help out.
Sorry to be pessimistic but after my experiences as above I would hate you to be robbed as well.

Good luck, John SM319


New Member but Amel 'veteran'.

Noel Ardis <noel.ardis@...>
 

A quick hello to all the owners I have met over the years while sailing
SM#72 'Accolade'. Sorry it has taken me so long to officially join this
excellent forum.
The significant news is that 'Accolade' has been sold, after many years
of happy sailing and still looking great. The sadness of selling is,
however, tempered by the eager anticipation of having ordered a new 54!


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Peter, We lost the heater element on two of our clima units because when we didn't know that using the heater you should only do so in the High Fan setting. Medium or Low fan speed leads to burn out of the element.Was that the cause with you?
The element is easy to replace.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Uruguay


From: "dan_bergin" <captdan@sailpapa.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2007 18:26:20 -0000

Peter,
FOR the CLIMA dealer in San Francisco call ANDERS ELECTRIC 510-234-9566
or on the east coast call Rob at 301-352-6962
I tried to order one a month ago in San Francisoc when I was there.
ANDERS said it would be a month until they got one from Italy. Mayby
they have some now.
Dan Bergin
"Keelless in Canada"
sm#317

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...>
wrote:

greetings from supermaramu #369 CALLISTO - pt. vallarta mexico. i
need
a replacement heating element for my clima model number c303
heater/airconditioner. part number m66360. Does anyone know from whom
i can order one. Thank you Peter Pappas




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Dan, We are very sorry to hear of your lost keel. I
don't what we can do from hear other then listen.
Were you able to salvage the keel? What will be used
as a replacement? Did the stainless steel bolts show
any signs of loss of metal either from the salt water
or from being oxygen starved? Had she hit hard
before? We sail in Maine and are always fearful of
grounding on a big black rock ledge.
Good luck and hope you are able to get it fixed
before Canada runs out of beer.
Best wishes
Richard SM 209


--- dan_bergin <captdan@sailpapa.com> wrote:

Peter,
FOR the CLIMA dealer in San Francisco call ANDERS
ELECTRIC 510-234-9566
or on the east coast call Rob at 301-352-6962
I tried to order one a month ago in San Francisoc
when I was there.
ANDERS said it would be a month until they got one
from Italy. Mayby
they have some now.
Dan Bergin
"Keelless in Canada"
sm#317

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas"
<pjppappas@...>
wrote:

greetings from supermaramu #369 CALLISTO - pt.
vallarta mexico. i
need
a replacement heating element for my clima model
number c303
heater/airconditioner. part number m66360. Does
anyone know from whom
i can order one. Thank you Peter Pappas



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Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)

dan_bergin <captdan@...>
 

Peter,
FOR the CLIMA dealer in San Francisco call ANDERS ELECTRIC 510-234-9566
or on the east coast call Rob at 301-352-6962
I tried to order one a month ago in San Francisoc when I was there.
ANDERS said it would be a month until they got one from Italy. Mayby
they have some now.
Dan Bergin
"Keelless in Canada"
sm#317

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...>
wrote:

greetings from supermaramu #369 CALLISTO - pt. vallarta mexico. i
need
a replacement heating element for my clima model number c303
heater/airconditioner. part number m66360. Does anyone know from whom
i can order one. Thank you Peter Pappas


Re: impellor for Laser generator

lbflyingfree <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "bobparry1947" <bob@...> wrote:

We have a Laser generator circ 1990. Could someone please advise of
the
the equivalent Jabsco impellor number as the Sole one is hard to come
by. Bob Parry
Bob,
I have no idea of the equilalent Jabsco impeller. But I have the same
genset and have replumbed the intake directly to the raw water pump
instead of via the "heat sink" per the factory. The output of the raw
water pump is re-routed to the "heat sink". This keeps the inpellor
wet and i have not replaced the impellor in over 70 hours. I also
installed a shut off valve in the sea water circuit to the genset to
make servicing the impellor easier.
Good Luck.
Steve Anderson
SM 57 Flying Free


CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)

pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
 

greetings from supermaramu #369 CALLISTO - pt. vallarta mexico. i need
a replacement heating element for my clima model number c303
heater/airconditioner. part number m66360. Does anyone know from whom
i can order one. Thank you Peter Pappas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar starting problems

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hello, Given what you have done I would suggest that
you check the battery connections in the battery box
and all the way to the starter. It sounds like you
have connection issue not a relay issue. I'd also
check the connectors at the ends of the cables if the
wires are green you may want to change them and grease
the new ones.
Good luck.
Richard SM 209
--- ivarmylde <mylde@online.no> wrote:

Hello,
Can anybody help me with following:
My Yanmar 100hk engine is abt 5 years - 500 hrs. Two
years ago I had
starting problems and a mechanic installed a relay
which helped. Now
I hve same problems and a few weeks ago I cud not
start at all and
the relay was changed for a new one. Now again it do
not always start
before I try several times.
The battery is Ok, but the starter motor do not
connect - only the
engine fan - after a few times trying with the
ignition key it
starts. I believe it is a electronic problem, or
maybe the starter
motor must be serviced. The starter motor is very
difficult to come
to. Grateful yr adv.
Rgds Ivar Mylde
# SM53 Silfrania




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] PAPA has a BAD day

Peps <dji314@...>
 

SM 317, is that the famous ex-Lady Divina ?



dan_bergin wrote:


Well the bow thruster prop repair is way down on the list today.
Yesterday PAPA struck a rock HARD at 8 knots in Canada and LOST HER
KEEL. She floated free after it got ripped off in about 10 minutes
of twisting and rolling with the surging currents. I was able to
motor slowly away to deeper water and dive over to see the keel was
GONE. At high RPM's there was severe vibrations so I took the FREE
(CANADA COAST GUARD IS AWESOME) tow to Port Hardy, BC where I will be
spending some time exploring the construction of the AMELS...

Once out of the water you can see all the stainless keel bolts were
cut clean off. The transmission housing is sagging down 4 inches
(but the prop turns fine and was able to motor slowly into the
haulout slip.) There is fresh water leaking out from the bottom of
what is left of the keel, so I will be drinking large quanities of
good Canadian Beer.

If anyone has any experience with reattaching a keel, water tank
repair or transmission issues, I am all ears.

Capt Dan
s/v PAPA II
SM #317
801-556-7858
captdan@sailpapa.com <mailto:captdan%40sailpapa.com>


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PAPA has a BAD day

dan_bergin <captdan@...>
 

Well the bow thruster prop repair is way down on the list today.
Yesterday PAPA struck a rock HARD at 8 knots in Canada and LOST HER
KEEL. She floated free after it got ripped off in about 10 minutes
of twisting and rolling with the surging currents. I was able to
motor slowly away to deeper water and dive over to see the keel was
GONE. At high RPM's there was severe vibrations so I took the FREE
(CANADA COAST GUARD IS AWESOME) tow to Port Hardy, BC where I will be
spending some time exploring the construction of the AMELS...

Once out of the water you can see all the stainless keel bolts were
cut clean off. The transmission housing is sagging down 4 inches
(but the prop turns fine and was able to motor slowly into the
haulout slip.) There is fresh water leaking out from the bottom of
what is left of the keel, so I will be drinking large quanities of
good Canadian Beer.

If anyone has any experience with reattaching a keel, water tank
repair or transmission issues, I am all ears.

Capt Dan
s/v PAPA II
SM #317
801-556-7858
captdan@sailpapa.com


Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] BOW THRUSTER PROP

Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hi Dan,
The prop and its boss are a very close fit and almost impossible to sand down to make it easier and it is also difficult to line up the holes for the screws. The answer is simple, get three stainless machine screws a bit longer than the nylon ones and use these to line up the holes and to draw the prop on far enough for the screws to be replaced with the nylon ones. Obviously you must turn each screw a little at a time so that the prop goes on straight.
You must have done something different to break the blades off your old prop. I have neever had that problem because my props vanish into the deep after I manage to foul a ground line.
An even more difficult trick is to get the pick-up line of someones mooring around the fibre glass part of the bow thruster as the vee of the hull section acts as a barb to keep the line in place. I know because I managed it when I was alone. I was there until a kind soul came along in a dinghy and released me.

Best wishes, John

----- Original Message -----
From: dan_bergin
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 4:47 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] BOW THRUSTER PROP


Having trouble with reinstalling my Bow Thruster Prop. The old one
shattered it's blades and I was successful at removing the old prop
while the boat is still in the water. Maybe I am missing something but
removing the 6 nylon screws was not enough to get the old prop off. It
took lots of force and prying with a screw driver. No damage to the
nylon hub noted. I have both a new nylon hub and prop but cannot get
the new prop to slip on. Does anyone have a good way to reinstall a
prop???
Dan Bergin
SM #317
in port Vancouver, BC


Water tank float and starter solenoid

Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hello Joe and Dan,
The solenoid is a French one made by Valeo and I am looking at the one that
was replaced on my Yanmar last year. The info on it is......CEY 14
12v J99. It is a perfectly normal 12 volt solenoid as used on every motor
car etc. so if I were you I would get one at my local garage. On the Yanmar
it is very hard to get at but the mechanic took off the main heat exchanger
to service it and this made access to the solenoid, water pump etc much much
easier. I should add that to get it off he had to force the flexible exhaust
pipe forward to make enough space.
What puzzles me is the fact that a number of owners have had this problem.
Over the last 60 years I have never had solenoid problems with any motor
car. The one they removed appears to be as good as new, no signs of arcing
on the contacts and tests OK with a voltmeter. I meant to have it tested
last winter to confirm my suspicions but forgot. I suspect that the wiring
is a more likely cause for the failures.

When my SM2000 was nearly new I had a problem with fresh water leaking out of
the bottom of the tanks via the keel bolts which became obvious when the
boat was hauled out. Amel sent two technicians to deal with this under
warranty and I was amazed how quickly they disconnected the upright fridge
and the washing machine which they moved forwards out of the way.The hatch
on the aft tank is under the fridge and the fridge cannot be removed until the
washing machine is out of the way
I could then see the float which was much bigger than I imagined. If the construction
of your boat is similar you should be able to refix the float although the inspection hatch is not very big.
Let us know how you get on especially with the solenoid/wiring.

Best wishes from somewhere in the Adriatic, Anne and John
SM319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water

Judy Rouse
 

Ian,

Your solution would certainly work. We chose a different option. If
the bow thruster seals start to leak, we want to know it to that we
can replace them. So we installed a very loud water-intrusion alarm
in the forward bilge area. Since we started pinning the bowthruster
in the up position when sailing to weather, there has been no water
intrusion. But if the seals start to leak then we will know about it
immediately so that we can attend to the appropriate routine
maintenance of replacing the seals.

Judy
S/V BeBe
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd"
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Dave,

You are experiencing a common problem. The seals on the bow thruster
will
eventually leak and cause the lower forward bilge to slowly fill
with water
I mostly solved this by building up a rubber dam around the box
where the
bow thruster tube goes through the hull. To do this I used a 5" to 4.5"
rubber pipe converter that I found in one of those 'have everything'
hardware stores in the US. I fitted polythene tubing to connecters
on the
port and starboard sides of the dam (1 for each tack) and joined
them via a
Y connector to a single pipe that I connected to the chain locker
drain tube
via a brazed on barbed connector. This arrangement caught most of the
leakage and I was again able to use the under floor area as stowage.

Following a catastrophe with a SM 2000, Amel redesigned the whole of
the bow
thruster enclosure on later boats. Apart from getting rid of the
leather
curtain and enclosing the bow thruster behind a water tight access door,
they made the rear bow thruster bulkhead without the holes that
drain into
the bilge area. They fitted a drain pipe to the bulkhead that also
connected
to the chain drain pipe so that any water that leaks past the seals is
carried away to the engine room bilge.

This might be an easier option for you than my rubber dam solution.
I can't
be sure as I now have the later design and I don't recall the exact
details
of the earlier boat. It should not be too difficult to fibreglass in the
holes and fit a drain tube that connects to the valve assembly on
the chain
locker pipe.

Good luck

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE:[Amel Keel

amelforme
 

Whoops! Regarding the keel coating instructions, there's a typo. Of
Course 1' X 3" should be 1' X 3' or 30 cm X 91 cm. Sorry.

In response to Bob on Brittany de la Mer, the metal parts securing the
rudder to the skeg are stainless steel. Be sure to add some
texture/roughen up the surface before coating. There is a bronze
"DYNA-PLATE" on the actual skeg itself which should never be
painted. Usually a good pressure washing when hauled, followed by
using a bronze bristled hand brush will restore the "DYNA PLATE"
to it's original condition. This is the ground plate for SSB/HAM
radio and it won't work if it is painted.

Good Luck
Joel F. Potter, AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS


Re: BOW THRUSTER PROP

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

There are some good posts on repacing your prop in the water (without
the special Amel in-water replacement gadget (which I know own).

Helpful advice was posted by John and Amy on a June 1, 2005 Posting.
Below is their advice and my ultimate response back with some further
suggestions:

"It is a doddle. I assume you have a spare prop which comes with the
boss which fits onto the drive shaft. Look at the boss and you will
see that has a hole through which there is a stainless pin which will
take the drive from the shaft. Your old prop has gone missing and so
on the drive shaft there is the old boss and pin or perhaps the old
pin has dropped out and the boss has also vanished.
You do not need to haul out or have the special kit if you can get a
scuba diver to remove the old boss and pin and fit the the new boss
and pin and then fit the prop and screw in the nylon screws. (If you
are unlucky the diver may need to use a similar size pin to drive out
the old one). At a pinch it could be done with a snorkel, I suspect.
Bingo! all is well. Just make sure that you always have a couple of
spare props for the next time. When you pay for them you will become
more careful about stray lines etc..
You do not say your hull no, Mine is 319 and I lost three in the first
couple of years but I have got better!"

My additions after sucessfully replacing it while floating in the water
wearing a life preserver and doing most of it by feel:

"Thanks everyone, for your advice and ideas on bow-thruster
replacement without short hauling the boat--I did replace it in the
water.

Everyone's advice was valid, but I thought I would share my
experience and ideas.

I was able to drive the old pin out, using a correctly sized
Craftsman punch with small taps from a hammer and grabing the end
with a Vice-Grip and twist/pulling it out the other end. Believe it
or not, I was able to do this hanging off my dingy with my son
holding the dingy into the boat. However, a better way, and one I
had to resort to to attach the prop--was simply floating next to the
bowthruster while wearing a PFD and reaching down with both hands to
work on it. I started out with a snorkle and mask but found (perhaps
due to the opacity of Chesapeake Bay water) that floating with the
head above water was easier.

First I hauled the thruster up about 2" to make it more accessable
under water--you only need access to the hub and this helps a little.
Next, I lightly sanded the inside edge of the prop that pushes onto
the collar and lubed the inside of this area of the prop with
Lanocoat. This helped it slide on easier and allowed me to rotate
it on the hub to line-up the six holes. I tied a keeper line around
one blade of the prop. Because it tapers out larger, this secures
the pricey little guy! I also had used a small nylon string to do
the same thing with the white collar by going through one of the
threaded holes. Working with both hands, I think that the best way
to push the prop on is to grab around the thruster with the fingers
of both hands and push the prop on simultaneously with both thumbs.
Lining up the six holes in the prop with the white collar was the
toughest task for me. I found that I had to back the prop off the
hub about half way and line up the holes with the punch and then ush
it on completly. Otherwise the prop and drive rotate together and I
could not line up the holes. Because the punch was smaller than the
holes I had to work it around in a circular motion to line up one of
the holes correctly. A better guide, like a plastic pen body might
be better. Lining up the holes was by far the most difficult task--
if you are in clear water, a snorkle and mask might let you do it
visually, but not in the Chesapeake! I had my son stand above me on
the deck and lower parts down with a bucket (including the nylon
screws--one at a time.

It wasn't too bad, but I will be buying the special tool. It sounds
like it is very useful if there are any complications, and of-course
could allow you to replace a seal or chack/change the 90wt oil.
Joel told me by phone that he has the process down to about 30
minutes."

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "dan_bergin" <captdan@...>
wrote:

Having trouble with reinstalling my Bow Thruster Prop. The old one
shattered it's blades and I was successful at removing the old prop
while the boat is still in the water. Maybe I am missing something
but
removing the 6 nylon screws was not enough to get the old prop off.
It
took lots of force and prying with a screw driver. No damage to the
nylon hub noted. I have both a new nylon hub and prop but cannot get
the new prop to slip on. Does anyone have a good way to reinstall a
prop???
Dan Bergin
SM #317
in port Vancouver, BC


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE:[Amel Keel

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

Skeg question--(thanks for the detailed information, Joel)--Is the
skeg the same? I have a similar problem with some exposed metal on
the skeg of my 1993 Santorin. Do the same recommendations apply?

Bob
Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@...> wrote:

This comes from Joel Potter the boat owner not Joel Potter in any
capacity regarding my
professional work with my colleagues at AMEL. Sorry, my lawyer
insists on this.

Sorry for the delay on this post. Clients intervened and I
misplaced it. Just today I
was reminded by a patiently waiting friend that I had yet to post
it.

The most important thing to consider when repairing/replacing the
keel coatings are as
follows:

Select a well known and respected brand name for all the component
elements and DON'T MIX
any part with components from another manufacturer. This is
particularly important when
employing solvents/cleaners, thinners, bulking material,
catylizers, and fairing
compounds. To do so is almost always a recipe for disaster. Use
epoxy materials. Do not
use polyester.

Read the instructions. Read them again. And again…Instructions
are there for a reason
and each brand has it's own quirks. Be sure to understand the
entire process completely
from start to finish before you begin. Just good common sense
here. Sorry…

When considering to repair or entirely replace the coatings on the
external iron ballast,
consider age as well as condition. Ten to fifteen years, on the
average, seems to be the
life span for the epoxy coatings in warm Caribbean water. Colder
water is not as harsh an
environment so you can count on a few more years generally.

Buy a small amount of epoxy and solvent of the brand of your
choice. Sand a well attached
area of the present keel coating to remove the bottom
paint/antifouling only. Heavily
saturate a shop towel with the chosen solvent and secure it firmly
to the exposed keel
coatings. Keep an eye on it for spontaneous combustion in
hot/humid areas (ask me how I
know this!) Mix a small batch of epoxy and spread it on the
present keel coatings (after
sanding off the anti-fouling) fairly thick about 3"x 3" x ¼". Have
a beer. Have another
one. After the solvent has evaporated and the epoxy hardened, look
for bubbling or
lifting around the edges. Go home for the evening.

Next day, scrape firmly on the solvent soaked area and the new
epoxy "patch". Are the
original coatings solid? Any evidence of loss of adhesion or
bubbling? If so you have
two choices. Try the same process with another brand of
replacement materials or remove
ALL the coatings on the iron keel before replacing it all. If your
coatings are near the
end of their life expectancy, this last suggestion is usually for
the best overall
solution.

However you remove the original keel coatings remember, ALL THIS
STUFF IS POISON. IT WILL
MAKE YOU WISH YOU HAD DIED IF IT DOESN'T KILL YOU. Wear a plastic
toxic exposure suit,
and an appropriate respirator, eye protection and foam ear plugs.
Gloves are essential.

All of the epoxy coatings that have proven to work effectively have
two things in common
in the preparation phase of the iron keel. These are:

1. The keel should be sanded/grinded/soda or sand blasted until
ONLY
BRIGHT SHINY iron is exposed. No residual coatings or
corrosion
is to be tolerated. The iron should look like silver.

2. From the time the iron keel is prepared to it's bright shiny
state, you
have at best a matter of a very few minutes to get the
primer/sealer coat
on the bright metal. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENT
OF THIS REPAIR. If you wait more than a couple of minutes,
rust
begins at a microscopic level where you can't see it, but it is
there. This
will cause the spread of this rust/oxidation once the iron is
coated and
anti-fouled and will greatly reduce the life of the repair. I
had one
unfortunate acquaintance who sand blasted his keel in the
afternoon
and coated it the next morning. It was good material from
International
and it all, and I mean ALL came unattached in three weeks
time. I
always prepare and coat an area of about 1' X 3" before moving
on to
the next section of keel.

I digress here but this is important. Your AMEL keel is IRON. Not
STEEL. There is quite
a difference.

I try to use all materials, including bottom paint/anti-fouling
from one manufacturer.
It's easier to get a satisfactory resolution to any eventual
problem when all fingers
point in one direction.

Good luck. Don't forget the respirator…

Joel Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: BOW THRUSTER PROP

Judy Rouse
 

Dan,

The nylon prop screws hold the prop on the prop hub which has a
stainless pin that goes through the prop shaft. After you remove the
(old) screws and the prop, you should press the pin out and remove the
(old) prop hub.

If I remember correctly, the replacement prop comes comes screwed to
the hub. You will have to remove the (new)prop from the hub to be
able to mount the hub on the shaft with its stainless pin. Once this
is done, you can screw the (new) prop on...This may sound confusing,
but once you have done it, you will see it is fairly straight forward.

Best,

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "dan_bergin" <captdan@...> wrote:

Having trouble with reinstalling my Bow Thruster Prop. The old one
shattered it's blades and I was successful at removing the old prop
while the boat is still in the water. Maybe I am missing something but
removing the 6 nylon screws was not enough to get the old prop off. It
took lots of force and prying with a screw driver. No damage to the
nylon hub noted. I have both a new nylon hub and prop but cannot get
the new prop to slip on. Does anyone have a good way to reinstall a
prop???
Dan Bergin
SM #317
in port Vancouver, BC


[Amel Yacht Owners] RE:[Amel Keel

amelforme
 

This comes from Joel Potter the boat owner not Joel Potter in any capacity regarding my
professional work with my colleagues at AMEL. Sorry, my lawyer insists on this.

Sorry for the delay on this post. Clients intervened and I misplaced it. Just today I
was reminded by a patiently waiting friend that I had yet to post it.

The most important thing to consider when repairing/replacing the keel coatings are as
follows:

Select a well known and respected brand name for all the component elements and DON'T MIX
any part with components from another manufacturer. This is particularly important when
employing solvents/cleaners, thinners, bulking material, catylizers, and fairing
compounds. To do so is almost always a recipe for disaster. Use epoxy materials. Do not
use polyester.

Read the instructions. Read them again. And again…Instructions are there for a reason
and each brand has it's own quirks. Be sure to understand the entire process completely
from start to finish before you begin. Just good common sense here. Sorry…

When considering to repair or entirely replace the coatings on the external iron ballast,
consider age as well as condition. Ten to fifteen years, on the average, seems to be the
life span for the epoxy coatings in warm Caribbean water. Colder water is not as harsh an
environment so you can count on a few more years generally.

Buy a small amount of epoxy and solvent of the brand of your choice. Sand a well attached
area of the present keel coating to remove the bottom paint/antifouling only. Heavily
saturate a shop towel with the chosen solvent and secure it firmly to the exposed keel
coatings. Keep an eye on it for spontaneous combustion in hot/humid areas (ask me how I
know this!) Mix a small batch of epoxy and spread it on the present keel coatings (after
sanding off the anti-fouling) fairly thick about 3"x 3" x ¼". Have a beer. Have another
one. After the solvent has evaporated and the epoxy hardened, look for bubbling or
lifting around the edges. Go home for the evening.

Next day, scrape firmly on the solvent soaked area and the new epoxy "patch". Are the
original coatings solid? Any evidence of loss of adhesion or bubbling? If so you have
two choices. Try the same process with another brand of replacement materials or remove
ALL the coatings on the iron keel before replacing it all. If your coatings are near the
end of their life expectancy, this last suggestion is usually for the best overall
solution.

However you remove the original keel coatings remember, ALL THIS STUFF IS POISON. IT WILL
MAKE YOU WISH YOU HAD DIED IF IT DOESN'T KILL YOU. Wear a plastic toxic exposure suit,
and an appropriate respirator, eye protection and foam ear plugs. Gloves are essential.

All of the epoxy coatings that have proven to work effectively have two things in common
in the preparation phase of the iron keel. These are:

1. The keel should be sanded/grinded/soda or sand blasted until ONLY
BRIGHT SHINY iron is exposed. No residual coatings or corrosion
is to be tolerated. The iron should look like silver.

2. From the time the iron keel is prepared to it's bright shiny state, you
have at best a matter of a very few minutes to get the primer/sealer coat
on the bright metal. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENT
OF THIS REPAIR. If you wait more than a couple of minutes, rust
begins at a microscopic level where you can't see it, but it is there. This
will cause the spread of this rust/oxidation once the iron is coated and
anti-fouled and will greatly reduce the life of the repair. I had one
unfortunate acquaintance who sand blasted his keel in the afternoon
and coated it the next morning. It was good material from International
and it all, and I mean ALL came unattached in three weeks time. I
always prepare and coat an area of about 1' X 3" before moving on to
the next section of keel.

I digress here but this is important. Your AMEL keel is IRON. Not STEEL. There is quite
a difference.

I try to use all materials, including bottom paint/anti-fouling from one manufacturer.
It's easier to get a satisfactory resolution to any eventual problem when all fingers
point in one direction.

Good luck. Don't forget the respirator…

Joel Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water

drdavegoodman
 

Thanks, Ian;
Since putting in the bowthruster pin I've noticed no more water. But
I've just been at dock. We'll see what happens next time I go
sailing. I also plan to change the bowthruster seals soon. I imagine
Amel has those seals? Who do I contact at Amel for these kinds of
parts. Olivier? Please advise.
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd"
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Dave,

You are experiencing a common problem. The seals on the bow thruster
will
eventually leak and cause the lower forward bilge to slowly fill
with water
I mostly solved this by building up a rubber dam around the box
where the
bow thruster tube goes through the hull. To do this I used a 5" to 4.5"
rubber pipe converter that I found in one of those 'have everything'
hardware stores in the US. I fitted polythene tubing to connecters
on the
port and starboard sides of the dam (1 for each tack) and joined
them via a
Y connector to a single pipe that I connected to the chain locker
drain tube
via a brazed on barbed connector. This arrangement caught most of the
leakage and I was again able to use the under floor area as stowage.

Following a catastrophe with a SM 2000, Amel redesigned the whole of
the bow
thruster enclosure on later boats. Apart from getting rid of the
leather
curtain and enclosing the bow thruster behind a water tight access door,
they made the rear bow thruster bulkhead without the holes that
drain into
the bilge area. They fitted a drain pipe to the bulkhead that also
connected
to the chain drain pipe so that any water that leaks past the seals is
carried away to the engine room bilge.

This might be an easier option for you than my rubber dam solution.
I can't
be sure as I now have the later design and I don't recall the exact
details
of the earlier boat. It should not be too difficult to fibreglass in the
holes and fit a drain tube that connects to the valve assembly on
the chain
locker pipe.

Good luck

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

-------Original Message-------

From: drdavegoodman
Date: 06/30/07 06:05:28
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of a
liter
of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil
coming into
the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the
water. If
you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals
that are
just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was
another
spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the
thruster
with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was
next to
me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting arrangement. My
owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...> wrote:
Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of
pettit
ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3
spongy
inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3
seals
on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder
and
the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,
check
the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite





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