Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] on the hard for a week....rudder won't move now.....any ideas????

WILLIAM KLEIN <sidecar1@...>
 

Have you checked in the space between the rudder and skeg for something wedged in between. I usually have a lot of barnacle growth in this area n my Maramu.

----- Original Message -----
From: Dave_Benjamin
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:59 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] on the hard for a week....rudder won't move now.....any ideas????


So we just tired to move the rudder and it appears firmly jammed. I
tried both directions and the resistance seemed equal. Any ideas?


on the hard for a week....rudder won't move now.....any ideas????

Dave_Benjamin
 

So we just tired to move the rudder and it appears firmly jammed. I
tried both directions and the resistance seemed equal. Any ideas?


Anchor windlass

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

Hello again Richard,
I can understand that it seemed impossible to remove the allen bolts
holding the side plate on the main casing. Fortunately my winch
problem was in Croatia where they have not yet progressed to the
throw away society standards. The engineer spent almost a whole day
either working on the winch or going back to his shop to get more
gear. He finally managed to get all the bolts out by working on each
one carefully with
what looked to me like an oxyacetylene blow torch and a very long
allen key. After he had finished I took each one out and replaced it
using anti seize ointment.This reminds me that I resolved to do the
same thing annually.
To deal with the new winch I believe that the up and down buttons on
the top of the casing are an Amel or Pochon le Cochon abortion and
much increase the risk of sea water penetration. Those on my winch
were badly fitted for two reasons, the top of the casing is rounded
and thus unsuited to fitting the switches without grinding off the
rounding and secondly the holes drilled in the casing were too big
and thus it was doubly difficult to get a good fixing. As I could not
get a replacement of the right type I fitted a foot switch in the
deck on the port side so that Anne can use her foot to lift the
anchor whilst she is leaning over the pulpit in relative comfort to
watch the anchor coming up. If I was fitting a new winch I would use
two deck switches instead of recreating the abortion.
When the casing is removed counter sensor can be removed by pushing
it forward with a small screwdriver through the aft hole and
disconnecting the joint in the wiring to get it out.Removing the
sensor will expose the heads of the two bolts which hold its mount on
the side of the casing so you can get it off. I suppose that the
mount can then be used as a guide for drilling holes in the new
casing.
If I understand the sensor details which Gary has posted in Files the
sensor is pretty sensitive and may be up to one or two centimetres
away from the knob on the winch drum However I guess you would be
happier with about a quarter of an inch or so.

Good luck, Anne and John, SM 319


Battened Mainsail

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

I had a main made for my last ketch by a Kiwi sailmaker called Mike
Relling. He used vertical battens about four or five feet long. They
were fibre glass rod although they could well have been made out of
normal wide batten material. He was fairly conservative in the extra
roach that he built in but even so it increased the sail area by seven
percent and was much better looking as it had a positive roach and it
worked very well without allowing the roach to fall away.
I do not know why this is not done as a norm. I suspect that people see
that the furled main nearly fills the mast at boom level and cannot
workout that a tall triangle leaves heaps of room further up the mast !!

Regards, Anne and John, SM319


What oil is needed for the prop shaft bearing?

Patrick McAneny
 

I just changed my prop shaft bearing for the first time. What type and
weight of oil do I need? I have not been able to find any reference to
this on this website.
Thanks,
Pat
Shenanigans SM123


Re: cutless bearing......size no longer in production????

Dave_Benjamin
 

Today we checked to see if a 1 3/8" bearing would fit over the 35mm
shaft. Turns out it does. Morse makes a 1 3/8x 1 7/8x 5 1/2 in
bearing. The outside diameter is 47.625mm. Since our opening is about
45mm we will have to shave 1.312 mm or roughly .052"

We'll know shortly.

Does anyone with an older Maramu know if the 35mm shaft was standard.
Our Maramu was repowered by a previous owner so I have no idea if it
is the same size.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "maramu48" <maramu48@...> wrote:

Dave,
When you find a cutlass bearing vendor, would you kindly post their
name, address, telephone number and cost?
Thanks, Don Henderson
s/v MINERVA


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin"
<dave_benjamin@> wrote:

Hi all,

I thought we were all set since our boat had a brand new cutless
bearing in the spares inventory. Unfortunately this bearing is too
small to work. The outer diameter of the bearing needs to be just shy
of 45mm. It looks like someone took a 35x47x140 bearing and machined
it to fit. Unfortunately they went too small. The existing bearing
which was shot after a short time was quite loose. It came out by
hand. Nothing was holding it place other than the set screws and screw
for the bonding strap. The 35x47x140 bearings are no longer made. It
is costing us a bloody fortune to be hauled out as we are paying both
yard laydays and a short term rental on shore.

If anyone knows where I can find a 35x47x140mm shaft bearing I'd
appreciate the help. If anyone has a spare we would be happy to wire
you enough money to have a replacement manufactured. We are told it
will take a week or two for Morse or Duramax to fabricate a bearing
for us.

I plan to call Amel in the morning to see if they have any bearings
they can FedEx to us. Our Maramu has been repowered so I don't know if
the 35mm shaft is the same size as original or not.

Cheers,
Dave and Jean
S/Y Exit Strategy
On the hard - Alameda, CA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster

Dimitris Krassopoulos <dkra@...>
 

You had the same as myself, there are two small inox vertical shafts that
were bend and the propeller turns only through the friction they have to be
again fitted I turned the system 90 degrees as the bend shaft had created a
vavity in the plastic part.



SM Alma Libre



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ian & Judy Jenkins
Sent: , 15 2008 2:25
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster




Oops! These things seem to come in threes. Just backing into our final berth
for the season when the bow thruster failed.The motor ran at high speed and
I assumed that the prop had come off. Used the Amel gadget to drop the leg
in the water and was surprised to find the prop in perfect condition. On
disassembling it, the prop turns the vertical shaft happily so the gear in
the lower hub looks fine. The cogs realign firmly when the leg is refitted,
but to no avail. It sounds to me as though the coupling between the electric
motor and the upper, female, shaft that connects to the leg has parted.I
have no drawings to suggest what that coupling might be or how to get at it.
Anyone had anything similar ?
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Crew's Inn ,Trinidad
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[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sonic Speed

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Ian wrote:
" I havent adjusted the knob you mention--(didnt know of its existence!). I assume the
box you refer to is the one in the saloon in the little locker to starboard by the door to
the forward section. Can you tell me what I should be looking for when adjusting the
knob?Will I get this info from the B&G manual that came with the boat? Many thanks as
always."

Hi Ian:
Yes on my Amel Super Maramu (Hull # 335) the sonic speed computer is in the starboard
side forward lower cupboard in the saloon, (i.e. just in front of the two big drawers under
the starboard seat). It is held to the bottom of the shelf with some bungee cord for easy
removal. On the back side is a plate. You remove a couple of very small phillips head
screws and remove the plate. You will see a black knob and next to it is a red LED. This
adjusts the distance between the two transducers and compensates for circuitry variation.
Indeed there is a cryptic explanation located in the box. It is conceivable to me that as
circuitry ages and components drift in tolerance that this needs to be periodically
calibrated. The procedure for setting this is in the materials supplied for the boat by B &
G, but basically you turn the knob very slowly until the light comes on, then you continue
until the light goes off and then you center the knob between those two positions such
that the red LED is on all the time. In actuality the light will not be on all the time but
that is ok as long as it is on most of the time. This knob is very sensitive and this will
take a light and careful touch. You can't hurt anything by tinkering with it. Basically
when the LED is lit this tells you that the sonic signal being sent is being received by the
receiver transducer. Any air bubbles or foreign material will disrupt the sonic beam and
cause the light to go out. Are you sure there isn't anything trailing from the hull causing
aeration between the two transducers?

There is a calibration function in the B & G multifunction display at the nav station that
allows you to calibrate the unit as well. This software calibration tells the computer how
many pulses equals a given distance. You probably do not need to do this calibration.
The calibration is described in the B & G books.

Good luck, I hope this fixes your problem. It is also good to know that the transducers
are merely slid into some tubes and can be replaced if needed.

Gary


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster

edmund_steele
 

Ian & Judy,
The coupling is a short (approx 6 cm.) steel sleeve that internally has splines. The bottom half is attached to the vertical drive shaft and held in place by a steel pin that is driven through both the fitting and the shaft. The top half of the fitting slides onto the splines on the motor shaft. Pretty simple really. If turning the prop turns the shaft and the fitting is intact at the top of the leg, you should be good to go. You can test the motor by running it briefly with the foot lowered to make sure that it's shaft is turning.
I recommended in an earlier posting that you add anti-seize compound to the motor spline / coupling spline to prevent future antics.
Ed
DoodleBug SM#331


Bowthruster

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Oops! These things seem to come in threes. Just backing into our final berth for the season when the bow thruster failed.The motor ran at high speed and I assumed that the prop had come off. Used the Amel gadget to drop the leg in the water and was surprised to find the prop in perfect condition. On disassembling it, the prop turns the vertical shaft happily so the gear in the lower hub looks fine. The cogs realign firmly when the leg is refitted, but to no avail. It sounds to me as though the coupling between the electric motor and the upper, female, shaft that connects to the leg has parted.I have no drawings to suggest what that coupling might be or how to get at it. Anyone had anything similar ?
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Crew's Inn ,Trinidad
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sonic Speed

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Dear Ed, Gary and Bob, Thanks for your speedy replies.Looks as though I am in with a chance! Gary, as you have probably gathered I am pretty untechnical so I havent adjusted the knob you mention--(didnt know of its existence!). I assume the box you refer to is the one in the saloon in the little locker to starboard by the door to the forward section. Can you tell me what I should be looking for when adjusting the knob?Will I get this info from the B&G manual that came with the boat? Many thanks as always, Cheers Ian

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Re: cutless bearing......size no longer in production????

maramu48 <maramu48@...>
 

Dave,
When you find a cutlass bearing vendor, would you kindly post their
name, address, telephone number and cost?
Thanks, Don Henderson
s/v MINERVA


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin"
<dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

Hi all,

I thought we were all set since our boat had a brand new cutless
bearing in the spares inventory. Unfortunately this bearing is too
small to work. The outer diameter of the bearing needs to be just shy
of 45mm. It looks like someone took a 35x47x140 bearing and machined
it to fit. Unfortunately they went too small. The existing bearing
which was shot after a short time was quite loose. It came out by
hand. Nothing was holding it place other than the set screws and screw
for the bonding strap. The 35x47x140 bearings are no longer made. It
is costing us a bloody fortune to be hauled out as we are paying both
yard laydays and a short term rental on shore.

If anyone knows where I can find a 35x47x140mm shaft bearing I'd
appreciate the help. If anyone has a spare we would be happy to wire
you enough money to have a replacement manufactured. We are told it
will take a week or two for Morse or Duramax to fabricate a bearing
for us.

I plan to call Amel in the morning to see if they have any bearings
they can FedEx to us. Our Maramu has been repowered so I don't know if
the 35mm shaft is the same size as original or not.

Cheers,
Dave and Jean
S/Y Exit Strategy
On the hard - Alameda, CA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sonic Speed

edmund_steele
 

I have replaced the forward sonic sensor twice (long story and she has promised never to "help" to clean the hull again). The procedure was:

1) disconnect wires from B & G control box.
2) solder a 4 meter retrieval wire to the end of the sensor cable
3) remove the couch seat back from the forward bulkhead - it is velcroed on.
4) remove the heavy felt from the forward edge of the forward fridge / freezer - it is also velcroed on.

You now have exposed the wires from the speed sensor. You will need to cut the nylon cable ties in the B & G control unit locker (forward, bottom, starboard in main cabin on SM#331). The wiring then goes through the forward floor locker in the main cabin, next to the bilge shut off valve and you will need to cut nylon cable ties here also. You should be able to easily pull the wiring through to the fridge / freezer leading edge shelf. If not, you have missed a cable tie - so put your head back down inside the lockers.

5) With your vessel OUT of the water you will need a small drill and a self tapping screw. Drill a pilot hole into the old speed sensor and then insert the self tapper. With a pair of pliers it should slide out easily.
6) To re-install, the reverse procedure. Use silicone grease on the interior "O" ring of the sensor socket and a dab of glue (I used silicone sealant / glue) on the end with the rubber - just to seal it.
7) When the glue has dried, cut the rubber block flush with the hull using a very sharp razor blade.

No hull grinding required. I ordered the replacement sensors from Amel and they arrived from Ponchon. B & G said the sensors had not been manufactured for "a decade" (??!!!)

Don't worry about the sensor leaking; the tube it is installed inside has the upper end above the water line. Sorry I can't help on the rear sensor but I seem to remember that it looked easier.
Ed
DoodleBug SM#331

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 9:01 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sonic Speed



Hi , me again. We have the B & G sonic speed on our SM. Worked perfectly for 30,000 miles but this season either worked perfectly or showed between 0.2 and 0.3 k. The log and Apparent/True wind speed followed suit. All three displays, one analog and two digital, worked in sync, so its not a display unit problem
The local B & G man here in Trini thinks we may have moisture in one of the sensors. He is going to test it to see ( there is some resistance measurement you can carry out but he needs to get the figures from B & G HQ).
If his diagnosis is correct he says that replacing the sensors is a difficult job, involving a certain amout of grinding back on the hull. If this is so, I will wait to have it done by Pochon in Guadeloupe.
My question is: Has anyone else suffered this fault or had to replace their Sonic Speed sensors and if so what was the procedure? I have also asked Olivier for his comments and will post them.
Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Crew's Inn ,Trinidad
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Re: Sonic Speed

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ian:

Regarding your sonic speed failure:
Did you already adjust the knob in the sonic speed control box to obtain a steady
illuminated red LED?

Gary

-


cutless bearing......size no longer in production????

Dave_Benjamin
 

Hi all,

I thought we were all set since our boat had a brand new cutless
bearing in the spares inventory. Unfortunately this bearing is too
small to work. The outer diameter of the bearing needs to be just shy
of 45mm. It looks like someone took a 35x47x140 bearing and machined
it to fit. Unfortunately they went too small. The existing bearing
which was shot after a short time was quite loose. It came out by
hand. Nothing was holding it place other than the set screws and screw
for the bonding strap. The 35x47x140 bearings are no longer made. It
is costing us a bloody fortune to be hauled out as we are paying both
yard laydays and a short term rental on shore.

If anyone knows where I can find a 35x47x140mm shaft bearing I'd
appreciate the help. If anyone has a spare we would be happy to wire
you enough money to have a replacement manufactured. We are told it
will take a week or two for Morse or Duramax to fabricate a bearing
for us.

I plan to call Amel in the morning to see if they have any bearings
they can FedEx to us. Our Maramu has been repowered so I don't know if
the 35mm shaft is the same size as original or not.

Cheers,
Dave and Jean
S/Y Exit Strategy
On the hard - Alameda, CA


Re: Sonic Speed

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

I had the same problem 2 years ago and never got it resolved. I had a
B&G tech work on it, he sent the 'black box' for the sonic back to
B&G to test, it was fine, so the fault is in the sensors. He also
told of the very difficult and costly test and repair including
grinding the hull. I never bothered, instead ordered a regular paddle
wheel from B&G that they assured me could be just hooked up to
the "brains", they even gave me all the wire numbers. The
installation and wiring was easy, guess what, it never worked!
I am still trying to figure out the best solution. Another Techie is
going to try and get the paddle wheel working this month. If not I am
thinking of just ripping out the whole B&G system and replacing it.
If you have better luck please let me know your solution.

Bob
Minaxi SM6



-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ian & Judy Jenkins
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:


Hi , me again. We have the B & G sonic speed on our SM. Worked
perfectly for 30,000 miles but this season either worked perfectly
or showed between 0.2 and 0.3 k. The log and Apparent/True wind speed
followed suit. All three displays, one analog and two digital, worked
in sync, so its not a display unit problem
The local B & G man here in Trini thinks we may have moisture in
one of the sensors. He is going to test it to see ( there is some
resistance measurement you can carry out but he needs to get the
figures from B & G HQ).
If his diagnosis is correct he says that replacing the sensors is
a difficult job, involving a certain amout of grinding back on the
hull. If this is so, I will wait to have it done by Pochon in
Guadeloupe.
My question is: Has anyone else suffered this fault or had to
replace their Sonic Speed sensors and if so what was the procedure? I
have also asked Olivier for his comments and will post them.
Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Crew's Inn ,Trinidad
_________________________________________________________________

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Sonic Speed

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi , me again. We have the B & G sonic speed on our SM. Worked perfectly for 30,000 miles but this season either worked perfectly or showed between 0.2 and 0.3 k. The log and Apparent/True wind speed followed suit. All three displays, one analog and two digital, worked in sync, so its not a display unit problem
The local B & G man here in Trini thinks we may have moisture in one of the sensors. He is going to test it to see ( there is some resistance measurement you can carry out but he needs to get the figures from B & G HQ).
If his diagnosis is correct he says that replacing the sensors is a difficult job, involving a certain amout of grinding back on the hull. If this is so, I will wait to have it done by Pochon in Guadeloupe.
My question is: Has anyone else suffered this fault or had to replace their Sonic Speed sensors and if so what was the procedure? I have also asked Olivier for his comments and will post them.
Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Crew's Inn ,Trinidad
_________________________________________________________________

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steering cables

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi y'all. Pen Azen is now in Trinidad about to join the hordes going ashore at Peake's. We had a great 2000m sail from Fernado de Noronha , averaging over 7k, though we did develop a knocking noise from a steering cable when the wheel went to Port. This noise is a single knock which can be felt if you hold both cables just short of the quadrant. You cannot hear anything in the galley or feel anything at the wheel but one of the cables will allow you to feel the knock.
In this way you can see which cable has a problem.We discovered this about 200 m into our passage but as luck would have it we had suffered a broken cable in 1989 on our Amel Sharki, so, freak event though this is ( what are the odds of it happening twice?) we knew straight away what the position was and we also knew that we didn't have a problem. The Amel cables are both push/pull, so a break in one only affects its pulling power. The other can push and pull on its own and the broken one can still push. If the worst were to happen I think we could have disconnected both cables and sailed on using just the linear drive Autohelm.
We will sail onto Guadeloupe in November and have Amel fit new cables ( the old ones have done us 8 years and over 30,000 miles).
I mention all this in case it crops up with anyone else.Just another example of the impressive redundancy designed into an Amel.
Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Crew's Inn, Trinidad
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: sails and ssb

Dr. Seidel <mseidel@...>
 

I put long thin tubular battens vertically on Sunbdances main which has a larger roach than the standard main. Paul Lockwood at Omar sails in Beaufort has repaired the top of the pocket at the leach end which originally w as done by U-K in the carib. ripped out on passage from Ft. Lauderdale to Wilmington in late November.Paul can help you with this. He does my sailwork also. I have no problems with my vertical battens now.. Obviously the best solution would be a larger slot in the mast. That would be a huge project and increase the wind noise from the mast slot. Murray Seidel. SM349 Sundance. 910-470-1225. cell----- Original Message -----
From: blowinahoudy
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:20 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: sails and ssb


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, minaxi53 <no_reply@...> wrote:
>
> Joe
> I have asked several sailmakers about a battened main, I seem to
get a
> different answer every time as to whether this is possible on an
Amel
> furling mast. Can you give more details of yours.
> Bob
> Minaxi SM6
>
> --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, blowinahoudy <no_reply@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I would like to recommend two venders to the group. We had a new
jib,
> > battened main, and battened mizzen made by Paul Lockwood of Omar
> > Sailmakers in Beaufort,N.C. Found his prices fair and his
workmanship
> > superb. Also he is a great guy to work with,even drove me forty
miles
> > to a car rental and wouldn't let me buy him a tank of gas. I'd
also
> > like to praise Steve Bowden and Pam (Brown?) of Seatech Systems.
We
> > bought An Icom 802,Pactor 3, AIS package, DSC, and wifi from
them. I
> > installed them myself and was in a little over my head. Each time
I
> > called for advice I got help,either immediately or soon
> > after. Sincerely, Joe Metz, "Brown-Eyed
Girl
> > SM#87
> >
> Bob, The battens on a furling sail are short multiple battens
located on the leach of the sail and they overlap. While not as
effective as traditional battens,they do help. You can contact Paul
Lockwood at 252-728-5598 with any questions. I'll be out of contact
for a couple weeks; we're sailing from Fl. to Maine. Joe


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] play in thruster prop

Dr. Seidel <mseidel@...>
 

Sundance sm349 recently hauled out at Bennett Bros. Wilmington, N.C. Tony Gray was also there. My bowthruster seal leaked severely on a trip to Bermuda and back. We took out the thruster and totally took it apart. Replaced all the plastic seals and the foam seals. The lube in the gears and tube with the shaft in it was full of sea water and VERY thinned out lube. We took digital photos of the process. Bennett Bros. yard manager Brial has a disc and I do. Will try to post the disc and pictures of my repaired, formally bent 90 degree anchor. Thruster now water tight.Total time including painting it was 6-7 hours. Part was a learning process for both of us. Murray Seidel , Wilmington, N.C. 910-470-1225

----- Original Message -----
From: sailw32
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 8:29 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] play in thruster prop



My bowthruster prop has some play in it between the shaft and the prop
is this normal or is my shaft or prop worn? The prop can be wiggled
back and forth approx. a 1/4 inch or so.In addition to replacing the
foam seals I found that the metric seal 30x42x7 behind the prop needed
to be replaced.This seal keeps the oil in and water out, it is a single
lip seal I will try to replace it with a double lip.I should be able to
find this seal locally.Since you can not check oil level or for water
in the thruster I will in future replace this seal when I replace the
foam ones,cheap insurance.Shenanigans/SM 123