Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Cleats for Mango

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

We had a 1983 Amel and took off the hardware when we
painted her. The Deck Hardware was not in bad
condition. The bolts were frozen but the nuts came
free so when we re-installed the hardware we used new
washers on the backing plates and lots of T-9 spray.

When we sold it some years later they we still in good
shape.

best of luck...
Richard SM 209
--- anniemno1 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Does anyone know who the manufacturer was for the
cleats and warping
fairleads used on the early Mangos?

Have been advised that anodizing cast aluminum dack
hardware is not
recommended so we are trying to replace the cleats
and warping
fairleads on Annie M.

John and Anne on Annie M
Mango #1



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Re: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replaceing the anchor windlass

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

John, thanks for the note. We can get at the nuts on
in the port side locker they are not glassed in. It
looks like the prior owner had the windlass off and
serviced. The issue in rebuilding this on is the SS
screws are not willing to come out.... The bad
bearings have also egged the housing holes. There is
lots of rust on the motor and after all it's 10 years
old and been around once. It's time..
We are more concerned with setting up the chain
counter on the New Tigeress... Any one that has done
this we'd like info...
Thanks to all
Richard and Joan on Challenge sm 209

--- John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@melita.net.mt>
wrote:

Hello Richard,
If your winch is installed like mine you may wish
that you had the old one reconditioned in situ. As
you might find on the search box under anchor winch
I savaged mine in Croatia and had it repaired
locally. At that time I looked in the chain locker
and saw that the winch was fixed to the deck with
four bolts. The nut on the starboard aft one was
totally buried in resin and virtually inaccessible
so I felt that it would be better to replace parts
than to put a Leprachaun into the chainn locker to
chip off the resin.
Hopefully yours is not the same.

Regards, Anne and John, SM 319
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Piller
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:55 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Replaceing the windlass


Hi, we use the same plastic bag method for keeping
the
water out at sea. (ocean crossing and going to
windward)

We are about to replace the windlass as a whole.
The
bearing have gone and it sounds like the worm
gears
are gone as well. Has anyone replace the entire
windlass with a new Tigeress from Lofrans? Did you
have any problems/issues with the chain counter?

We found the best deal at Defender in CT. They
shipped to ST Thomas for us...

We'll post our replacement. Everyone may want to
check that there is no play in the windlass shaft
with
the chain off.

Richard and Joan on Challenge in the BVI
--- rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I know this is an old post, but I use a thin
white
> plastic "T-Shirt"
> bag, as is used in grocery and other shopping.
You
> can work it in
> around the chain and it forms a very tight seal.
It
> is also out of
> site. You can thread it through a chain link to
make
> sure it doesn't
> blow away if you forget to remove it, but we
never
> have.
>
> Bob,
> 93 Santorin Brittany de la Mer
>
> --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick
> MEJEAN" <maramu@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Eric
> > If you problem is to prevent the sea water to
come
> in I believe
> that the
> > small piece of rubber attached to the windlass
is
> more than enough
> as the
> > amount of water that may come inside is rather
> little. My personal
> view is
> > that any other system a bit more sophisticated
> will not last long
> as sooner
> > or later you will forget to remove it one day.
The
> good thing with
> the
> > rubber plate, is that even though you forget
to
> remove it, it will
> not be
> > damaged, at most torn a bit.
> > Regards
> > Erick
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: kimberlite1212
<no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
> > Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
> > To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass
> > Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 03:27:05 -0000
> >
> > Has anyone come up with a good way to plug the
> windlass hawspipe
> > during a passage?
> > fair winds,
> > eric
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

__________________________________________________________
> > MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2
> months FREE*
> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
> >
>
>
>


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.15/1426
- Release Date: 10/05/2008 11:12


[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]



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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Original sea valves

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Dave, You have to take the gate valves apart to get them out. Use a heat gun to take the hose off, take the valve apart and turn it. The base is fibreglased in so it won't turn. You will probally find that the valve is British pipe thread not easy to find in the U.S. I bought mine from Amel and found that they were cheaper but I had to pay the freight. If some fibreglass is around the valve itself, just take a knife and cut it away. You should replace all the gate valves. Do whatever it takes.

John "Moon Dog" SM 248


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.comFrom: dave_benjamin@yahoo.comDate: Sun, 11 May 2008 17:16:12 +0000Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Original sea valves




Greetings,We have hauled our new to us Maramu hull #29. Most of the original seavalves are still installed and with the exception of one sticky onethey are in good order. I'm not sure about the rest of the world buthere in the US having gate style valves is discouraged since you can'ttall visually which position the valve is in. Where the older valves are used there are no conventional style skinfittings with hose attached. Can anyone tell me how much work it is tochange these valves? Is there a glassed in pipe they are attached to?How are they attached? Is it possible to change the valve withoutadding a skin fitting? I have set up a photo album named Exit Strategy. In addition to apicture of the valves in question there is a picture of a plaque withthe original boat name - Maramu III. This Maramu was Henri Amel'spersonal boat for the first six years.






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: sails and ssb

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

to get the low down on battens call super sails in Fl.
they will make you a sail at the best prices...
Richard On Challenge SM 209
--- blowinahoudy <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, minaxi53
<no_reply@...> wrote:

Joe
I have asked several sailmakers about a battened
main, I seem to
get a
different answer every time as to whether this is
possible on an
Amel
furling mast. Can you give more details of yours.
Bob
Minaxi SM6

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
blowinahoudy <no_reply@>
wrote:

I would like to recommend two venders to the
group. We had a new
jib,
battened main, and battened mizzen made by Paul
Lockwood of Omar
Sailmakers in Beaufort,N.C. Found his prices
fair and his
workmanship
superb. Also he is a great guy to work with,even
drove me forty
miles
to a car rental and wouldn't let me buy him a
tank of gas. I'd
also
like to praise Steve Bowden and Pam (Brown?) of
Seatech Systems.
We
bought An Icom 802,Pactor 3, AIS package, DSC,
and wifi from
them. I
installed them myself and was in a little over
my head. Each time
I
called for advice I got help,either immediately
or soon
after. Sincerely, Joe
Metz, "Brown-Eyed
Girl
SM#87
Bob, The battens on a furling sail are short
multiple battens
located on the leach of the sail and they overlap.
While not as
effective as traditional battens,they do help. You
can contact Paul
Lockwood at 252-728-5598 with any questions. I'll be
out of contact
for a couple weeks; we're sailing from Fl. to Maine.
Joe




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] play in thruster prop

Dimitris Krassopoulos <dkra@...>
 

The problem could be much worse. I changed the seal and oil every year but I
found out a very serious problem. If you look at the exploded view of the
bow thruster there are two small metal shafts that keep the two gears
together. After a broblem with a line in the bow that destroyed the plastic
screws of the propeller I found out after one year that the two metal shafts
had sheared and only the friction turned the propeller which after one year
of no problem use stopped turning. I made two new holes and turned the
whole system by 90 degress and replace the two shafts.



So if you open the bowthruster check also the two shafts and the condition
of the gears. I believe that due to the non continous operation of the
bowthruster some sea water does not make a big harm.



Regards



Dimitris

Sm-2000 Alma Libre



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sailw32
Sent: Δευτέρα, 12 Μαΐου 2008 3:29 μμ
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] play in thruster prop




My bowthruster prop has some play in it between the shaft and the prop
is this normal or is my shaft or prop worn? The prop can be wiggled
back and forth approx. a 1/4 inch or so.In addition to replacing the
foam seals I found that the metric seal 30x42x7 behind the prop needed
to be replaced.This seal keeps the oil in and water out, it is a single
lip seal I will try to replace it with a double lip.I should be able to
find this seal locally.Since you can not check oil level or for water
in the thruster I will in future replace this seal when I replace the
foam ones,cheap insurance.Shenanigans/SM 123





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: sails and ssb

blowinahoudy <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, minaxi53 <no_reply@...> wrote:

Joe
I have asked several sailmakers about a battened main, I seem to
get a
different answer every time as to whether this is possible on an
Amel
furling mast. Can you give more details of yours.
Bob
Minaxi SM6

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, blowinahoudy <no_reply@>
wrote:

I would like to recommend two venders to the group. We had a new
jib,
battened main, and battened mizzen made by Paul Lockwood of Omar
Sailmakers in Beaufort,N.C. Found his prices fair and his
workmanship
superb. Also he is a great guy to work with,even drove me forty
miles
to a car rental and wouldn't let me buy him a tank of gas. I'd
also
like to praise Steve Bowden and Pam (Brown?) of Seatech Systems.
We
bought An Icom 802,Pactor 3, AIS package, DSC, and wifi from
them. I
installed them myself and was in a little over my head. Each time
I
called for advice I got help,either immediately or soon
after. Sincerely, Joe Metz, "Brown-Eyed
Girl
SM#87
Bob, The battens on a furling sail are short multiple battens
located on the leach of the sail and they overlap. While not as
effective as traditional battens,they do help. You can contact Paul
Lockwood at 252-728-5598 with any questions. I'll be out of contact
for a couple weeks; we're sailing from Fl. to Maine. Joe


play in thruster prop

Patrick McAneny
 

My bowthruster prop has some play in it between the shaft and the prop
is this normal or is my shaft or prop worn? The prop can be wiggled
back and forth approx. a 1/4 inch or so.In addition to replacing the
foam seals I found that the metric seal 30x42x7 behind the prop needed
to be replaced.This seal keeps the oil in and water out, it is a single
lip seal I will try to replace it with a double lip.I should be able to
find this seal locally.Since you can not check oil level or for water
in the thruster I will in future replace this seal when I replace the
foam ones,cheap insurance.Shenanigans/SM 123


Re: sails and ssb

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

Joe
I have asked several sailmakers about a battened main, I seem to get a
different answer every time as to whether this is possible on an Amel
furling mast. Can you give more details of yours.
Bob
Minaxi SM6

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, blowinahoudy <no_reply@...>
wrote:

I would like to recommend two venders to the group. We had a new jib,
battened main, and battened mizzen made by Paul Lockwood of Omar
Sailmakers in Beaufort,N.C. Found his prices fair and his workmanship
superb. Also he is a great guy to work with,even drove me forty miles
to a car rental and wouldn't let me buy him a tank of gas. I'd also
like to praise Steve Bowden and Pam (Brown?) of Seatech Systems. We
bought An Icom 802,Pactor 3, AIS package, DSC, and wifi from them. I
installed them myself and was in a little over my head. Each time I
called for advice I got help,either immediately or soon
after. Sincerely, Joe Metz, "Brown-Eyed Girl
SM#87


sails and ssb

blowinahoudy <no_reply@...>
 

I would like to recommend two venders to the group. We had a new jib,
battened main, and battened mizzen made by Paul Lockwood of Omar
Sailmakers in Beaufort,N.C. Found his prices fair and his workmanship
superb. Also he is a great guy to work with,even drove me forty miles
to a car rental and wouldn't let me buy him a tank of gas. I'd also
like to praise Steve Bowden and Pam (Brown?) of Seatech Systems. We
bought An Icom 802,Pactor 3, AIS package, DSC, and wifi from them. I
installed them myself and was in a little over my head. Each time I
called for advice I got help,either immediately or soon
after. Sincerely, Joe Metz, "Brown-Eyed Girl
SM#87


Re: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replaceing the anchor windlass

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hello Richard,
If your winch is installed like mine you may wish that you had the old one reconditioned in situ. As you might find on the search box under anchor winch I savaged mine in Croatia and had it repaired locally. At that time I looked in the chain locker and saw that the winch was fixed to the deck with four bolts. The nut on the starboard aft one was totally buried in resin and virtually inaccessible so I felt that it would be better to replace parts than to put a Leprachaun into the chainn locker to chip off the resin.
Hopefully yours is not the same.

Regards, Anne and John, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Piller
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:55 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replaceing the windlass


Hi, we use the same plastic bag method for keeping the
water out at sea. (ocean crossing and going to
windward)

We are about to replace the windlass as a whole. The
bearing have gone and it sounds like the worm gears
are gone as well. Has anyone replace the entire
windlass with a new Tigeress from Lofrans? Did you
have any problems/issues with the chain counter?

We found the best deal at Defender in CT. They
shipped to ST Thomas for us...

We'll post our replacement. Everyone may want to
check that there is no play in the windlass shaft with
the chain off.

Richard and Joan on Challenge in the BVI
--- rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@gmail.com> wrote:

> I know this is an old post, but I use a thin white
> plastic "T-Shirt"
> bag, as is used in grocery and other shopping. You
> can work it in
> around the chain and it forms a very tight seal. It
> is also out of
> site. You can thread it through a chain link to make
> sure it doesn't
> blow away if you forget to remove it, but we never
> have.
>
> Bob,
> 93 Santorin Brittany de la Mer
>
> --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick
> MEJEAN" <maramu@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Eric
> > If you problem is to prevent the sea water to come
> in I believe
> that the
> > small piece of rubber attached to the windlass is
> more than enough
> as the
> > amount of water that may come inside is rather
> little. My personal
> view is
> > that any other system a bit more sophisticated
> will not last long
> as sooner
> > or later you will forget to remove it one day. The
> good thing with
> the
> > rubber plate, is that even though you forget to
> remove it, it will
> not be
> > damaged, at most torn a bit.
> > Regards
> > Erick
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: kimberlite1212 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
> > Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
> > To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass
> > Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 03:27:05 -0000
> >
> > Has anyone come up with a good way to plug the
> windlass hawspipe
> > during a passage?
> > fair winds,
> > eric
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
__________________________________________________________
> > MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2
> months FREE*
> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
> >
>
>
>

__________________________________________________________
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.15/1426 - Release Date: 10/05/2008 11:12


Original sea valves

Dave_Benjamin
 

Greetings,

We have hauled our new to us Maramu hull #29. Most of the original sea
valves are still installed and with the exception of one sticky one
they are in good order. I'm not sure about the rest of the world but
here in the US having gate style valves is discouraged since you can't
tall visually which position the valve is in.

Where the older valves are used there are no conventional style skin
fittings with hose attached. Can anyone tell me how much work it is to
change these valves? Is there a glassed in pipe they are attached to?
How are they attached? Is it possible to change the valve without
adding a skin fitting?

I have set up a photo album named Exit Strategy. In addition to a
picture of the valves in question there is a picture of a plaque with
the original boat name - Maramu III. This Maramu was Henri Amel's
personal boat for the first six years.


Replacement Cleats for Mango

anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
 

Does anyone know who the manufacturer was for the cleats and warping
fairleads used on the early Mangos?

Have been advised that anodizing cast aluminum dack hardware is not
recommended so we are trying to replace the cleats and warping
fairleads on Annie M.

John and Anne on Annie M
Mango #1


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replaceing the windlass

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi, we use the same plastic bag method for keeping the
water out at sea. (ocean crossing and going to
windward)

We are about to replace the windlass as a whole. The
bearing have gone and it sounds like the worm gears
are gone as well. Has anyone replace the entire
windlass with a new Tigeress from Lofrans? Did you
have any problems/issues with the chain counter?

We found the best deal at Defender in CT. They
shipped to ST Thomas for us...

We'll post our replacement. Everyone may want to
check that there is no play in the windlass shaft with
the chain off.

Richard and Joan on Challenge in the BVI
--- rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@gmail.com> wrote:

I know this is an old post, but I use a thin white
plastic "T-Shirt"
bag, as is used in grocery and other shopping. You
can work it in
around the chain and it forms a very tight seal. It
is also out of
site. You can thread it through a chain link to make
sure it doesn't
blow away if you forget to remove it, but we never
have.

Bob,
93 Santorin Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick
MEJEAN" <maramu@...>
wrote:

Hi Eric
If you problem is to prevent the sea water to come
in I believe
that the
small piece of rubber attached to the windlass is
more than enough
as the
amount of water that may come inside is rather
little. My personal
view is
that any other system a bit more sophisticated
will not last long
as sooner
or later you will forget to remove it one day. The
good thing with
the
rubber plate, is that even though you forget to
remove it, it will
not be
damaged, at most torn a bit.
Regards
Erick






----Original Message Follows----
From: kimberlite1212 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 03:27:05 -0000

Has anyone come up with a good way to plug the
windlass hawspipe
during a passage?
fair winds,
eric




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2
months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus



____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass

rossirossix4
 

I know this is an old post, but I use a thin white plastic "T-Shirt"
bag, as is used in grocery and other shopping. You can work it in
around the chain and it forms a very tight seal. It is also out of
site. You can thread it through a chain link to make sure it doesn't
blow away if you forget to remove it, but we never have.

Bob,
93 Santorin Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick MEJEAN" <maramu@...>
wrote:

Hi Eric
If you problem is to prevent the sea water to come in I believe
that the
small piece of rubber attached to the windlass is more than enough
as the
amount of water that may come inside is rather little. My personal
view is
that any other system a bit more sophisticated will not last long
as sooner
or later you will forget to remove it one day. The good thing with
the
rubber plate, is that even though you forget to remove it, it will
not be
damaged, at most torn a bit.
Regards
Erick






----Original Message Follows----
From: kimberlite1212 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 03:27:05 -0000

Has anyone come up with a good way to plug the windlass hawspipe
during a passage?
fair winds,
eric




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus


Re: Anchor chain counter

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

John and everyone else:

I just uploaded the data sheet and some other info on the IFM
electronics sensor for the chain counter to the files section in a folder
entitled Chain Counter Information.
Thanks again for your research on this.

Gary


Re: Anchor chain counter

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

John wrote; "The unit comes with 2 metres of cable but this was cut off so
that a conection could be made in the winch !?!"

Hi John: Thanks for the info. on the chain counter electronics. I haven't
had any trouble with my chain counter but it is probably only a matter
of time. Are there other connections between the sensor and the display
unit? It is just a thought, but before replacing expensive electronic parts,
take a look at all the connections from the sensor to the indicator
looking for corrosion.

My deck level running lights quit working and I found the sockets terribly
corroded due to salt spray working its way into the AO lamps fixtures. I
bought new sockets for about $35 US each and cleaned up the wiring and
installed the sockets. They still didn't work. I checked voltage at the
bow sockets and had no voltage so I traced the wires to a junction box
in the port bow locker. I had infinite resistance when checking for
continuity. I cut the wire back thinking that I only had some
corrosion at the connectors but no matter how far I cut back I found more
corrosion. Salt water had wicked along the stranded wire all the way from
the lamp fixture on the bow pulpit clear down to the junction box in the
port locker. I had to replace the wire.

Perhaps something similar has happened with the chain counter connections.
It does live in a very hostile environment. Just a thought.

Regards, Gary
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335


Anchor chain counter

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

Hi Ed,
I now have the details of the sensor on the side of the anchor winch.It
is made by a German company called IFM Electronics which has offices
all round the world. It is an inductive sensor, part no IB5076.
The website is www.ifm.info. If you click on products and enter the
part no in the search box you will get the specification and then you
can carry on to get a data sheet in language of choice.
I have done all this but it is beyond my comprehension.
However the sensor is warranted for five years and in use in
production lines and robotic controland and is ,I imagine bullet
proof. The unit comes with 2 metres of cable but this was cut off so
that a conection could be made in the winch !?!
It seems to me that your problem is perhaps in this connection or in
the display unit.

Good luck, John SM319


Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Chain counter woes

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hi Ed,
I had the winch cover off last week to replace one of the switches and had a go at the counter sensor. It came out very easily by putting a small screw driver in the hole on the port side of the casing and with a little gentle levering.
It is a German device and I made a note of the makers etc but left it on the boat so I annot tell you the details.
I replaced it and put some sealant round the end and pushed it in and left it to set with a piece of card between it and the thing on the winch which triggers it.
You do not say what the problem is with your counter and I suppose that it is total failure rather than my problem which is the counter miss reads because, I suspect, the chain jumps on the gypsy as the chain runs out and thus underreads. This is because the chain is only on the gypsy for a quarter of a turn which is not enough at high speed run out without jumping or at high stress whilst under big strain as in running over the set anchor at some speed.
I have no idea how the electronics do their job and I was thinking of putting the sensor details on this site in the hope that someone might be more clued up.

Happy fiddling, Anne and John, SM319


Chain counter woes

edmund_steele
 

I am having the intermittent chain counter failure woes. Does anyone
know how to remove the sensor from the housing on the port side of the
Lofrans windlass? Anyone with an idea on how to test the functionality
of this part? I have checked the continuity of the wiring from the
control to th sensor and it is fine. I am down to the sensor and it
seems to be held in place by silcone sealant. Mallet and a ballpoint
pen as a drift??
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug SM 331


Re: take of the list

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Done. I have deleted you.

Regards
JL



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Lundstrom" <linneasail@...>
wrote:

Hi,



We sold our Amel a couple of years ago, and our next boat will be a
catamaran, so I would like to be taken off this list. How do I go
about?



Thanks,



Walter Lundstrom









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