|
Re: Mizzen furler
James Alton
Pat,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I would try detaching/disengaging the mizzen furlers gearbox from the extrusion. This would allow you to determine where the binding is. I will leave the specifics of how to detach the extrusion to other SM owners since my boat is a Maramu and the process might be different. To your other question, yes there has to be a bearing at the top of the mast as well. Best, James SV Sueno Maramu #220
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Loose screws in portlight stainless trem
I have a few loose screws in the stainless steel trim for the portlights. I need to add something to make the screws tight. These are very short wood screws (only two or three threads).
Most of the articles discuss filling the hole with epoxy, then redrilling a pilot hole. I'm loath to do that since it would likely glue the stainless to the fiberglass. I'm thinking of using something like 3M 5200 that sets up fairly hard and then run the screw into that. Any thoughts or experiences out there? Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Mizzen furler
Patrick McAneny
When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Santorin Furling/Outhaul Solenoid Wiring Question
Olivier, Perfect answer...thanks for your reply! --
On Tue, Nov 26, 2019 at 12:34 PM Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io <atlanticyachtsurvey=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Bimini Twist Lock Fastener
Paul Stascavage
Thanks Craig. Much to Anna Marie's dismay, we have checked out Willie's, it was fun.
I'm still at a loss for finding these fasteners. Anyone else have any thoughts or suggestions? All the best, Paul Stascavage SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn Currently Exploring Brunswick, GA www.RitaKathryn.com
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Santorin Furling/Outhaul Solenoid Wiring Question
Beaute Olivier
Hello Bill and all early Santorins and SMs owners, the first mainsail furlers (in-mast and out-haul) on Santorins and SMs were made of a Bonfiglioli gear-box driven from a CIMA motor, 12V for Santorin, 24V for SM. These motors have 4 input wires (black, blue, brown, yellow/green). The blue is the negative (not attached to the solenoid). The three other ones supply positive for both in and out movements. The yellow/green wire is definitely NOT a ground wire. DON't connect it to the ground circuit! If you cannot get the solenoid as original, you can replace them (both) with the two wires solenoids (that equip the later AMEL boats), but the connection is different. I will try to get the wire arrangement to shift from the first version to the second one as soon when I'm back in France (end of next week). Cheers. Olivier
On Wednesday, November 27, 2019, 05:19:33 AM GMT+13, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Santorin Owners, We have a bit of a mystery and I am sure someone knows the answer. See the photo below. Notice the Yellow/Green (Bonding Wire?) attached to Solenoid #1 and #3 on the "East" (three o'clock) posts. This appears to be done by Amel. Does anyone know the purpose of this wire? Is it bonding? Note the Solenoid Array on a SM below. There is no yellow/green (bonding wire). --
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Anchor Wash Pump SM
Arlo
Thanks for the information. Very useful. So to date we use a hose with a spray nozzle from the freshwater valve under our cockpit seat. We have a 1985 Mango. The thinking was eventually to extend our freshwater plumbing in the forward head to the bow locker and put a valve up there so we dont need to drag a 50 foot hose the length of the boat to rinse down the anchor chain or take a fresh water shiwer on the forward deck. We like using freshwater instead of salt as it keeps the smell down when the chain is in the locker and keeps the salt corrosion down when the chain is stored in the locker. Has anyone else done this? Aside from the downside of using your freshwater supply (water maker will offset this), I couldnt bring myself to plumb in a saltwater washdown instead. Since we have a Mango no washdown was installed from Amel. Also it means 1 less pump to worry about...
Thoughts ?
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Santorin Furling/Outhaul Solenoid Wiring Question
Santorin Owners, We have a bit of a mystery and I am sure someone knows the answer. See the photo below. Notice the Yellow/Green (Bonding Wire?) attached to Solenoid #1 and #3 on the "East" (three o'clock) posts. This appears to be done by Amel. Does anyone know the purpose of this wire? Is it bonding? Note the Solenoid Array on a SM below. There is no yellow/green (bonding wire). --
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Later model 54 & possibly 55 Furling Motor Seal Question
We are attempting to change the upper lip seal on a later model 54 vertically mounted furling motor. If you have done this, how did you remove the seal. I assume that the seal is pulled from the outside, but would like to hear from others that have done this. --
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Lithium Ion Battery teardowns
Hi Bill,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Wow that does look interesting. A drop in replacement and no additional BMS. What is the catch? I am not yet in the market as my Lifeline AGM’s are only two years old and they get filled to 100 percent most of the time. Maybe in 5 years time... Nick Amelia Kilada Greece
On 25 Nov 2019, at 22:31, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Anchor Wash Pump SM
Randall
Since purchasing my 54 I have found myself looking at the anchor washdown with a reinvent in mind. The most important part of the whole washdown is blasting the chain clean before it disappears into the abyss we call the chain locker. We can always go up an wash the anchor when convenient. Randall A54-#56
On Mon, Nov 25, 2019 at 6:29 PM Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Santorin Furling Solenoid on Main Urgent
Eric Meury
Looks like the furling solenoid has given up.
There is not much conversation on this for santorin owners. But they are 12volt. They are marked Cima and no luck with the google machine. Any suggestions on possible replacement here in the United States.
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Lithium Ion Battery teardowns
I found 2 YouTube videos on Lithium Ion batteries that I really like. The batteries were disassembled by Will Prowse: https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html. --
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Anchor Wash Pump SM
Thomas Peacock
I always felt the anchor wash on the SM did not do a great job. After a minor collision at the bow, it became even less useful. Finally, the pump developed a major leak, not fixable. I have put in a new pump, Jabsco Hot Shot wash-down, 24 volts, 24 liters per minute, US$185. It develops 70 PSI of pressure, with a pressure cut-off switch. It fits in easily where the old pump was. In the forward port-side deck locker, I disconnected the hose leading to the anchor roller, and instead hooked up a garden hose with a spray nozzle. Tom Peacock
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install
Doe anyone have a photo or two from installing an external regulator on their Leece-Neville 175amp alternator? I have the wiring diagrams from a previous post but was wondering if someone had an actual photo of the wire that needs to be snipped? And any additional tips or caveats?
I will be installing the WakeSpeed WS500 regulator. The wiring to the alternator for the WS500 looks very similar to the Balmar 624. Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on SM#387, sv BeBe
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
Hi James,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Since you plan to pull the shaft and check it at a machine shop you should also check that the prop is true. Many years ago (1991) I had a similar problem, it was on my first boat a 35’ gaff cutter. In Venezuela I installed a new engine, but the whole drive train was never checked. By the time I arrived in New Zealand I had only put on 200 hours as there was obviously a problem. Anchored off Russel in the Bay of Islands I pulled the prop and shaft, bunging the hole from inside and out. The machine shop right there checked the shaft, and it was bent. He checked the prop and it was true but completely the wrong prop for the type of boat. At very reasonable cost he supplied me with a second hand shaft and a second hand prop. I then went to town on the alignment and got it spot on. From that moment on engaging gear was a silky smooth transition and gradually powering up and loading the engine was a joy. The point being that the whole power train from engine to prop is critical. I suggest in addition to checking the shaft, you have the prop checked for balance. As James on Sueno says, the cutlass bearing might need “bedding in”. It should not be tight. It should be only bearing on the bottom due to the weight of the shaft with a very slight gap above and around. So there is a tiny bit of wiggle and you should be able to turn it by hand easily. The alignment: I see the shaft alternator and coupling arrangement from your photos. I suggest that initially you slide on the temporary nylon bearing down the shaft so that it sits in the stern tube and the shaft is then supported for and aft with minimal wiggle. Then gently slide the shaft forward so that it kisses the coupling. If it slides perfectly into the coupling slot without pushing it up or down or to one side then the alignment is already pretty good. I would then using feeler gauges check the alignment on the coupling to the transmission whilst rotating it. I am not sure that you actually need to remove the alternator pulley. If you want to, then the shaft should reach with the prop removed. I have said that the alignment is critical. However given the fact that there is no bearing forward, only a piece of exhaust hose and a lip seal that can move about quite freely, and given that the cutlass bearing must be at least three or four feet aft of the engine and the cutlass bearing is maybe five inches long. Also given the fact that the engine is mounted flexibly. I would say that the alignment needs to be such that the shaft slides without force into its coupling would be good enough. In my story above the engine was solidly mounted on hardwood blocks and there was a grease gland bearing at the forward end of the shaft. Alignment was very very critical. In your case it will not be so critical. I still think however that the technique to centre the shaft with a temporary nylon bearing is a great way to get the proper datum from which to work. Regarding the squeak being between 1500-1800 rpm. It would not surprise me if either the prop or the shaft, or indeed alignment is the problem, or even all three. Nick Amelia AML 54-019 Kilada Greece
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
James Alton
James,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I thought of one more thing that possibly could be causing the noise. I installed a cutlass bearing once that was a bit on the tight side, apparently a manufacturing issue. The Cutlass bearing made what I would call a “chirping” noise for while as it wore in. Might be worth spinning the prop before you launch and listen for noise from the new cutlass bearing. Best of luck in solving the mystery squeak, let us know what it turned out to be. Best, James SV Sueno Maramu #220
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
James Lochhead
Hi Dennis,
Yep tried that. I need to do a rebuild on the alternator anyway. Did you have any issues sourcing the bearings? -- James Maramu #147 (1984)
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
James Lochhead
Thanks James, I used your easier method last time. Might try the "fancy" method now as it did not solve the issue. Then if it continues at least I know it is not that.
-- James Maramu #147 (1984)
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||
|
Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
James Lochhead
-- Thanks Nick. Your description is perfect. I will have another go at the alignment. Due to location and with no assistance around at the time I did it myself with only advice from other cruisers. It is out of the water currently so I will try your proposal of the temporary bearing while out first when I get back to the boat and then check again once I get back in the water. Will also get the prop shaft checked. I have one other question if you could help. Due to the prop shaft generator the belt pulley sits between the vetus coupling and the transmission. I have attached some photos from another post that shows the arrangement. from memory the 4 bolts shown on the photo "vetus coupler" bolt through the coupling and the pulley holding it all in place. When measuring the the alignment access to the back of the transmission is limited due to the generator pulley. I am not sure if there is enough length in the shaft to pull it forward without the pulley in place. Do you have any thoughts on this? Also it is only at certain revs that the squeak was occurring. Very low revs and then between 1500-1800. James Maramu #147 (1984)
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
