Date   

Re: Unable to access photos

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Dec 16 2005

John:
I have looked at your pics several times. I think they are a good resourse. I am not certain at
what resolution they are downloaded but perhaps many of us have uploaded bigger files than
are absolutely necessary.

I tried emailing Dessalator's UK agent Rod Boreham at the address you gave and it came back
as undeliverable. Any thoughts?

Regards, Gary

Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 s/v Liahona


Unable to access photos

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hi Richard,
I too cannot even access the photos section. It is frustrating that
Yahoo only permits 30mb and perhaps some of us have been downloading
pics at high definion megabytes instead of the much smaller Email
version. If I could get into the site I would delete many of the pics
of alterations to Bali Hai not least because I suspect noone looks at
them anyhow. My recollection of the site is that there are a good many
piocs which are long past their sell by date and could be deleted.
Perhaps others have views on this, for my part I have only been
contacted twice by people interested in my alterations.
Views please....it will make a change from worrying about our
membranes.

Regards, John SM 319


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

15 Dec 2005

Hi Ian:

Regarding the price of the end caps- I received mine from Dessalator. These are
machined from aluminum and anodized black, There are two without high pressure
fittings and two with high pressure fittings. Each end cap has two large diameter o-rings
and a single smaller o-ring on the internal bore. The two with high pressure fittings have
stainless steel threaded hose nipples welded to a curved piece of stainless flat stock and
they are held on to the circumference of the end cap with screws. I am uncertain what
forms the seal of the high pressure nipple to the end cap. As these parts are made from
machined aluminum I can see where the cost would be greatly increased over plastic ones.
Chantiers Amel quoted me within 20 Euros for the same items, so I think Amel's price is in
the ball park and it was nice to see that Amel wasn't marking these up a great deal. Amel
has always been very fair with me.

I asked about my failure and I can only guess that something was lost in the translation
because the answer I received was incomplete and didn't really answer the question.

Dessalator has been very good to promptly respond to each of my emails but the person
who responds is Rosyne Castino who signs the emails as Secretary. I am somewhat
concerned that I am not getting the full technical info. I am going to attempt to email the
UK representative and see if I can get an answer.

I have taken some pictures of the end caps and will post them as soon as the photo
section starts to work.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel2000 Hull # 335 Delivered July 1, 2001


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Unable to access Photos

eric freedman
 

Gary,
I tried yesterday and got a message that the site is over the 30mb quota.
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 3:09 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Unable to access Photos

Has anybody else been receiving "error messages" when trying to access the
photos section
of this site?

I was going to upload a picture of the watermaker membrane assembly but
can't even get the
photos area to come up.


Regards, Gary Silver








Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

Steve Constantine <maramu_49@...>
 

Gary,

I pulled this info from the Dow FILMTEC website on the storage life of new membranes.

It asks: "How long can you store a new, packaged FILMTEC element?

Answer: "Dry elements can be stored indefinitely. Wet elements can be stored up to one year, but replenish bisulphite as needed."

There's also a lot of other interesting info on the site. There's another section that goes into more detail on wet and dry storage. It also gives the temperature ranges for the storage of various products.

http://dow-answer.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/dow_answer.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=342&p_created=1043797236&p_sid=JQjqhWh&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9MTYmcF9wcm9kcz0yNTEsMjYzJnBfY2F0cz0yOTUmcF9wdj0yLjI2MyZwX2N2PTEuMjk1JnBfc2VhcmNoX3R5cGU9YW5zd2Vycy5zZWFyY2hfbmwmcF9wYWdlPTE*&p_li=&p_topview=1


Steve - SM #340



amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "markmpitt" <mark_pitt@b...> wrote:
11 Dec 2005
Hi Mark:

Thanks for your reply. I visited the www.airwaterice.com site and those do indeed seem to
to be the membranes that we need. What a relief to find them at that price. I will call
them tomorrow to verify. Our system uses 2 membranes only. The FilmTec SW30-2540
membranes are rated at 700 gpd (gallons per day) = which comes out to roughly 233
liters per hour, Given that, I am not sure why our systems only produce 120 liters per
hour. Perhaps it is just the inefficiencies of the system.

My TDS meter is about the same as yours. I see on eBay that Hana makes several EC
(Electrical conductivity)/TDS/pH meters for about $120 USD. I haven't searched up a
Chlorine meter yet.

I am not sure I would replace my membranes if all seemed well. I would monitor them
closely though. I haven't discussed with anyone if a set of spares could be purchased prior
to a long passage and if they would store well, or what their shelf life in storage is.

My flush water chlorine filter is just a single Pur Water Filter housing (almost identical to
the ones Dessalator used) that I mounted to the front of the exisiting two filter housing's
mounting bracket, and plumbed into the system. I brought the hose from the fresh water
line to the input side of the carbon filter housing, then a hose from the ouput side to the
input side of the flush valve that is mounted on the low pressure feed water pump. This
way all the fresh water going into that flush valve passes first thru the carbon block filter.
The carbon block filter was also purchased from West Marine.

As to the replacing of the membrane's, I just don't know. From other posts on this site it
appears that it is not a big job. I asked Dessalator for a parts diagram or membrane
replacement instructions and they said that they didn't have such items. They told me it
was really a straight forward job to replace the membranes.

Regards, Gary






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Water Maker Info

Horst Pause <horst@...>
 

With all the mail regarding the watermaker problems, has anyone made the jump and gone for a Spectra? From a friend, I have had the highest praise for the faultless operation of their systems; their after sales service was also second to none, they replaced his pump and filter element with an improved system f.o.c. even after the warranty had run out.

Horst
Maramu Puddleduck

________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Tue 13/12/2005 21:34
To: Amel Owners Group
Subject: Fw: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info


Apologies if you get this twice. I am resending as the original has not come
back to me, so I guess it may have been lost. Ian



Hi Gary,

your post makes disturbing reading. Like you, I rely heavily upon my water
maker for long passages. About a year ago on this site, the possibility that
Amel had instructed Dessalator to de-activate the bad water bypass feature,
was raised.

This seemed an absurd suggestion to me, and I tried to test the system, but
failed to do so as I had not realized that the potential across the probe
is in fact not a DC one, but an AC one of around 500 Hz. I then contacted
Dessalator's UK representitive Rod Boreham and he took up the matter and fed
back reassuring information that the probe had not been deactivated. This
made sense as I remember Olivier Beaute mentioning that I should regularly
keep an eye on the probe terminals and to clean them if they looked
contaminated.

However, your experience suggests that there may be a weakness in the design
of either the detection, or the diversion of bad water. I am sure that all
of us would be interested to learn of your findings when you install a
second probe and do the test. (I had planned by now to have removed the
probe and immerse it in a cup of sea water whilst blocking the probe hole
with a bung, but a serious paragliding accident has confined me to bed for
the past two months). PLEASE let us know how you get on.

As a matter of interest, the membranes on my first 60 l/h failed after
living aboard for almost two years. During that time, I sometimes took on
dock water through a carbon filter, and sometimes cleaned the membranes with
a product bought from West Marine. I also visited the Chesapeake and the Bra
d'Or Lakes in Nova Scotia. Having said that, a friend of mine ran his water
maker in the inner harbour of Rodney Bay for three years without any problem
I would not even put my foot in there!

My second water maker is a 160 l/h model. I have never taken on dock water
(no chlorine), only back flush if the system is not going to be used for 10
days or more, and have never used any chemicals. In addition, having
backflushed the water maker in October 2003, it remained untouched for seven
months whilst Crusader languished in Amel's yard. Upon re launching the boat
it has worked fine ever since. My TDS readings are around 365 also.

The only problem I have experienced was the discovery of a split in in of
the nylon end caps in the area of the interconnecting tube that joins the
two membranes together. There had been a slow spray leak for some time, and
I only discovered it when a storage box that I keep under the water maker
was found to be full of sea water. The side effects of this leak were rust
on the 110/220V transformer casing, a failed fan in the 30 Amp battery
charger, and a degraded anchor wash motor, so it's worth keeping an eye on
the integrity of the end caps and fittings.

Amel quoted me "153.68 Euros ex Vat" for a pair of end caps, and so I am
staggered that you have been charged $640 for the caps direct from the
manufacturer. Of course we may have different models. Mine are made out of
white nylon and have two external and two internal seals each.

I attended a water maker symposium in Georgetown a few years back. When I
asked if all membranes were equal, the recommendation was Filmtec.

TSD meters are indeed readily available through Ebay at a great price. I
also bought one of those dual in line digital TDS meters for around $30. It
works fine when water is passed through it from a tap, but when I installed
it in the exit pipe from the membranes, it worked for a second or two, then
came up with 'error'. Why, I am not sure. Maybe the flow rate was too high
and turbulence might have had an effect? When I am back on my feet, I shall
try installing it in the pipe leading to the tank, possibly through a branch
off the main pipe. If you buy one of these, make sure you get the right John
Guest adaptors. The units normaly come with 1/4" connectors and my boat has
3/8" pipe. If I get it to work, it will be a convenient way of testing the
output regularly. I guess the ultimate water maker would have a digital
meter built into the control panel. One day I am sure.

Season Greetings to you all

Ian Shepherd SM 414 "Crusader"







________________________________

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Fw: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Apologies if you get this twice. I am resending as the original has not come
back to me, so I guess it may have been lost. Ian



Hi Gary,

your post makes disturbing reading. Like you, I rely heavily upon my water
maker for long passages. About a year ago on this site, the possibility that
Amel had instructed Dessalator to de-activate the bad water bypass feature,
was raised.

This seemed an absurd suggestion to me, and I tried to test the system, but
failed to do so as I had not realized that the potential across the probe
is in fact not a DC one, but an AC one of around 500 Hz. I then contacted
Dessalator's UK representitive Rod Boreham and he took up the matter and fed
back reassuring information that the probe had not been deactivated. This
made sense as I remember Olivier Beaute mentioning that I should regularly
keep an eye on the probe terminals and to clean them if they looked
contaminated.

However, your experience suggests that there may be a weakness in the design
of either the detection, or the diversion of bad water. I am sure that all
of us would be interested to learn of your findings when you install a
second probe and do the test. (I had planned by now to have removed the
probe and immerse it in a cup of sea water whilst blocking the probe hole
with a bung, but a serious paragliding accident has confined me to bed for
the past two months). PLEASE let us know how you get on.

As a matter of interest, the membranes on my first 60 l/h failed after
living aboard for almost two years. During that time, I sometimes took on
dock water through a carbon filter, and sometimes cleaned the membranes with
a product bought from West Marine. I also visited the Chesapeake and the Bra
d'Or Lakes in Nova Scotia. Having said that, a friend of mine ran his water
maker in the inner harbour of Rodney Bay for three years without any problem
I would not even put my foot in there!

My second water maker is a 160 l/h model. I have never taken on dock water
(no chlorine), only back flush if the system is not going to be used for 10
days or more, and have never used any chemicals. In addition, having
backflushed the water maker in October 2003, it remained untouched for seven
months whilst Crusader languished in Amel's yard. Upon re launching the boat
it has worked fine ever since. My TDS readings are around 365 also.

The only problem I have experienced was the discovery of a split in in of
the nylon end caps in the area of the interconnecting tube that joins the
two membranes together. There had been a slow spray leak for some time, and
I only discovered it when a storage box that I keep under the water maker
was found to be full of sea water. The side effects of this leak were rust
on the 110/220V transformer casing, a failed fan in the 30 Amp battery
charger, and a degraded anchor wash motor, so it's worth keeping an eye on
the integrity of the end caps and fittings.

Amel quoted me "153.68 Euros ex Vat" for a pair of end caps, and so I am
staggered that you have been charged $640 for the caps direct from the
manufacturer. Of course we may have different models. Mine are made out of
white nylon and have two external and two internal seals each.

I attended a water maker symposium in Georgetown a few years back. When I
asked if all membranes were equal, the recommendation was Filmtec.

TSD meters are indeed readily available through Ebay at a great price. I
also bought one of those dual in line digital TDS meters for around $30. It
works fine when water is passed through it from a tap, but when I installed
it in the exit pipe from the membranes, it worked for a second or two, then
came up with 'error'. Why, I am not sure. Maybe the flow rate was too high
and turbulence might have had an effect? When I am back on my feet, I shall
try installing it in the pipe leading to the tank, possibly through a branch
off the main pipe. If you buy one of these, make sure you get the right John
Guest adaptors. The units normaly come with 1/4" connectors and my boat has
3/8" pipe. If I get it to work, it will be a convenient way of testing the
output regularly. I guess the ultimate water maker would have a digital
meter built into the control panel. One day I am sure.

Season Greetings to you all

Ian Shepherd SM 414 "Crusader"


Photo section upgrade coming

Zanareva
 

Yahoo says they are rolling out an improved photo section. They
started November 21, and say all Yahoo Group sites will be upgraded in
4 to 6 weeks. We should be getting more storage...so hang in there
until the upgrade takes place.

Richard


Re: Water Maker Info

Mark Pitt
 

Gary:
I do not know what kind of connectors are used on our water lines.
The "professional" verion of these in-line TFS meters comes equipped
with 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch John Guest Quick-Connect T-fittings.
(http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/water-tests.asp)
From the John Guest web site (http://www.johnguest.com/) it would
seem that they have connectors and adaptors for all size pipe and
hoses. You could then just splice the meter into the line. These
meters have tow sensors -- one for input water and one for output
water. I do not see any reason to even bother with the former. These
must have been designed for in-home RO systems where the quality of
the input water, perhaps from a well, is of more interest.

Regards, Mark

Mark Pitt ASM #419 Sabbatical III


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Hi Mark:

Do you know what type of connectors are used on the watermater
product water line of the
vintage our our SM's. I am referring to the gray plastic product
water line coming out of the
end of the stainless steel end caps and going to the control panel.
Do you know if these
connectors could be spliced into those lines?

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM2000 Hull # 335

Mark stated:

There are in-line TDS meters that attach to the water line
with John Guest quick connectors. The sensor connects to a small
LCD display. They run on batteries, one model on button cell
batteries and the other on 2 AAA. Battery life is 1000 hours.
The meters cost less than $50. I found them at
http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/water-tests.asp
and at
http://www.airwaterice.com


Re: Unable to access Photos

Zanareva
 

Gary,

This site was close to it's limit for the longest time......now, with
a couple of posted pictures that a member uploaded in the past few
days, we've exceeded our allotment of 30MB photo storage as set by
Yahoo.

Any suggestions folks on what to do?

Richard Tate

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

Has anybody else been receiving "error messages" when trying to
access the photos section
of this site?

I was going to upload a picture of the watermaker membrane assembly
but can't even get the
photos area to come up.


Regards, Gary Silver


Unable to access Photos

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Has anybody else been receiving "error messages" when trying to access the photos section
of this site?

I was going to upload a picture of the watermaker membrane assembly but can't even get the
photos area to come up.


Regards, Gary Silver


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Hi Gary,

The advice I received at a water maker symposium was not to buy membranes in
advance. Apparently they do not store well, or at least they did not do so
in 2002. It would though, be a comforting idea to have a spare set on board.
Maybe the storage fluid has improved these days?

I had no problem at all changing membranes. Once you get the end caps off,
they simply slide out. To remove the end caps, I purchased a set of curved
grips, similar to mole grips, but designed for large round tubes. Using a
cloth to protect the caps, they can be jiggled till they pop out.

Regards

Ian Shepherd "Crusader"

-------Original Message-------

From: amelliahona
Date: 12/11/05 23:12:44
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "markmpitt" <mark_pitt@b...> wrote:
11 Dec 2005
Hi Mark:

Thanks for your reply. I visited the www.airwaterice.com site and those do
indeed seem to
to be the membranes that we need. What a relief to find them at that price.
I will call
them tomorrow to verify. Our system uses 2 membranes only. The FilmTec
SW30-2540
membranes are rated at 700 gpd (gallons per day) = which comes out to
roughly 233
liters per hour, Given that, I am not sure why our systems only produce 120
liters per
hour. Perhaps it is just the inefficiencies of the system.

My TDS meter is about the same as yours. I see on eBay that Hana makes
several EC
(Electrical conductivity)/TDS/pH meters for about $120 USD. I haven't
searched up a
Chlorine meter yet.

I am not sure I would replace my membranes if all seemed well. I would
monitor them
closely though. I haven't discussed with anyone if a set of spares could be
purchased prior
to a long passage and if they would store well, or what their shelf life in
storage is.

My flush water chlorine filter is just a single Pur Water Filter housing
(almost identical to
the ones Dessalator used) that I mounted to the front of the exisiting two
filter housing's
mounting bracket, and plumbed into the system. I brought the hose from the
fresh water
line to the input side of the carbon filter housing, then a hose from the
ouput side to the
input side of the flush valve that is mounted on the low pressure feed water
pump. This
way all the fresh water going into that flush valve passes first thru the
carbon block filter.
The carbon block filter was also purchased from West Marine.

As to the replacing of the membrane's, I just don't know. From other posts
on this site it
appears that it is not a big job. I asked Dessalator for a parts diagram or
membrane
replacement instructions and they said that they didn't have such items.
They told me it
was really a straight forward job to replace the membranes.

Regards, Gary






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GPS Uploads

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Has anyone successfully managed to upload routes from their navigation
program to the Furuno GP-80 GPS?

I have managed to upload waypoints from both Nobeltec VNS and Maxsea to the
GP-80 by using the WPT selection on the GPS menu, but when WPT/RTE is
selected I get an invalid data error message after the transfer takes place.

If anyone knows a way to make this work, I would be grateful to hear, for it
would save a lot of time by not having to reconstruct the route within the
GPS. As those of you you have a GP-80, it's not the easiest of GPS's to
work!

Ian Shepherd SM2000 "Crusader"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Hi Gary,

your post makes disturbing reading. Like you, I rely heavily upon my water
maker for long passages. About a year ago on this site, the possibility that
Amel had instructed Dessalator to de-activate the bad water bypass feature,
was raised.

This seemed an absurd suggestion to me, and I tried to test the system, but
failed to do so as I had not realized that the potential across the probe
is in fact not a DC one, but an AC one of around 500 Hz. I then contacted
Dessalator's UK representitive Rod Boreham and he took up the matter and fed
back reassuring information that the probe had not been deactivated. This
made sense as I remember Olivier Beaute mentioning that I should regularly
keep an eye on the probe terminals and to clean them if they looked
contaminated.

However, your experience suggests that there may be a weakness in the design
of either the detection, or the diversion of bad water. I am sure that all
of us would be interested to learn of your findings when you install a
second probe and do the test. (I had planned by now to have removed the
probe and immerse it in a cup of sea water whilst blocking the probe hole
with a bung, but a serious paragliding accident has confined me to bed for
the past two months). PLEASE let us know how you get on.

As a matter of interest, the membranes on my first 60 l/h failed after
living aboard for almost two years. During that time, I sometimes took on
dock water through a carbon filter, and sometimes cleaned the membranes with
a product bought from West Marine. I also visited the Chesapeake and the Bra
d'Or Lakes in Nova Scotia. Having said that, a friend of mine ran his water
maker in the inner harbour of Rodney Bay for three years without any problem
I would not even put my foot in there!

My second water maker is a 160 l/h model. I have never taken on dock water
(no chlorine), only back flush if the system is not going to be used for 10
days or more, and have never used any chemicals. In addition, having
backflushed the water maker in October 2003, it remained untouched for seven
months whilst Crusader languished in Amel's yard. Upon re launching the boat
it has worked fine ever since. My TDS readings are around 365 also.

The only problem I have experienced was the discovery of a split in in of
the nylon end caps in the area of the interconnecting tube that joins the
two membranes together. There had been a slow spray leak for some time, and
I only discovered it when a storage box that I keep under the water maker
was found to be full of sea water. The side effects of this leak were rust
on the 110/220V transformer casing, a failed fan in the 30 Amp battery
charger, and a degraded anchor wash motor, so it's worth keeping an eye on
the integrity of the end caps and fittings.

Amel quoted me "153.68 Euros ex Vat" for a pair of end caps, and so I am
staggered that you have been charged $640 for the caps direct from the
manufacturer. Of course we may have different models, but mine are made out
of white nylon and have two external and two internal seals each.

I attended a water maker symposium in Georgetown a few years back. When I
asked if all membranes were equal, the recommendation was Filmtec.

TSD meters are indeed readily available through Ebay at a great price. I
also bought one of those dual in line digital TDS meters for around $30. It
works fine when water is passed through it from a tap, but when I installed
it in the exit pipe from the membranes, it worked for a second or two, then
came up with 'error'. Why, I am not sure. Maybe the flow rate was too high
and turbulence might have had an effect? When I am back on my feet, I shall
try installing it in the pipe leading to the tank, possibly through a branch
off the main pipe. If you buy one of these, make sure you get the right John
Guest adaptors. The units normaly come with 1/4" connectors and my boat has
3/8" pipe. If I get it to work, it will be a convenient way of testing the
output regularly. I guess the ultimate water maker would have a digital
meter built into the control panel. One day I am sure.

Season Greetings to you all

Ian Shepherd SM 414 "Crusader"


Re: Water Maker Info

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Our system uses 2 membranes only. The FilmTec SW30-2540
I have posted a picture of the water maker membranes in the photos section.

Gary


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Mark:

Do you know what type of connectors are used on the watermater product water line of the
vintage our our SM's. I am referring to the gray plastic product water line coming out of the
end of the stainless steel end caps and going to the control panel. Do you know if these
connectors could be spliced into those lines?

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM2000 Hull # 335

Mark stated:

There are in-line TDS meters that attach to the water line
with John Guest quick connectors. The sensor connects to a small
LCD display. They run on batteries, one model on button cell
batteries and the other on 2 AAA. Battery life is 1000 hours.
The meters cost less than $50. I found them at
http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/water-tests.asp
and at
http://www.airwaterice.com


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

Mark Pitt
 

Hi all:

There are in-line TDS meters that attach to the water line
with John Guest quick connectors. The sensor connects to a small
LCD display. They run on batteries, one model on button cell
batteries and the other on 2 AAA. Battery life is 1000 hours.
The meters cost less than $50. I found them at
http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/water-tests.asp
and at
http://www.airwaterice.com/category/tdsmeters/
and a few other places on the web. They seem to be
all of the same manufacture. I am not sure how they
might fare in the marine environment, but for $50
and no installation hassles, they might be worth a try.

Mark Pitt ASM #419 Sabbatical III


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@o...> wrote:

Gary,
My thought was to add a sensor and monitor the water output on a
continuous
basis from the water maker panel. What do you think? I have to take
a closer
look at the wiring/plumbing diagram of the watermaker to figure out
what to
do.

I just heard from my friend who has an amel a year older than mine and
pickles his watermaker fro the southern hurricane season and when
away from
the boat. He has had no problems with his unit and it is now 4 years
old.
They are big time live aboards.


I think the thing they dragged across sea cow bay last time to
dredge it was
Kimberlite. We dragged and got stuck so many times I gave up.
Keep me posted Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 10:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@o...> wrote:
11 Dec 2005
Eric:
I was thinking of just paralleling the spare sensor with the two
wires that
go to the current
sensor and interposing a double pole double throw switch so that I could
place the
"testing"" sensor into a small container of sea water, throw the
switch and
see if it shuts
the system down. I am wondering if the two minute timer works on
both ends
of the cycle
so that a momentary bump or hysteresis in the EC (electrical
conductivity)
would not trip
the system off line. I would plan on testing this theory next time I am
aboard towards the
end of Jan 2006.

Sea Cow Bay is indeed shallow. We wait for high tide, try to enter with
empty water tanks
and place the crew in the dinghy before running that final channel area.
They have not
dredged the channel but they dragged something back and forth thru
it and I
believe it is
somewhat deeper as we didn't run aground the last two times in
there. Once,
two years
ago we ran so firmly aground that we had to kedge off. Once in the
Eastern
portion of the
marina there is plenty of water. Jim is surely a nice person and
knowledgable about
Amels, so it is comforting to leave the boat with him. And the price is
half of what it is in
Nanny Cay.

Regards, Gary

Gary,
How do you plan to add a second water sensor? Will you hook this
into some
kind of alarm? I was in sea cow bay last year and found the
entrance too
shallow for me. Have they dredged the channel?
Please say hi to Jim woods for me.
Thanks
Eric






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Aft cabin hatch and watermakers

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hi Gary,
I am sure that a starboard hatch will give you a huge improvement in
ventilation whenever there is any sort of breeze. My hatch is just a
bog standard one in a grey polycarbonate. If anyone wants to do a bit
of perving good luck to them ! We shall at any event fit a curtain to
eliminate the sun whilst we are not on board.
I have Emailed Rod Boreham, the UK Agent for Dassalter suggesting that
he took a look at our web site. He has replied saying that there a
number of misunderstandings and is going to send me his opinion so
that I can post it here.

Regards, John SM319


Perkins Prima M80T manuals

Zanareva
 

Hi everyone,

Does anyone have the service manual and parts manual for the Perkins
Prima M80T BB30143? Can I get a photocopy of these, at my cost? This
is the 80 hp four cylinder turbo that was factory installed in my 1989
Super Maramu. My only alternative is to order from the Perkins
distributor at the cost of over $110.

Thanks
Richard Tate
SM #5 "Spice"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

eric freedman
 

Gary,
What about this unit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HANNA-Grochek-pH-EC-TDS-CONDUCTIVITY-TESTER-Meter_W0
QQitemZ4425127508QQcategoryZ42291QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting


Did I mention my addition of volt/frequency meters and the engine exhaust
Temp monitor?
Fair Winds,
Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 9:54 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water Maker Info

Eric:

I believe the model you want is 98129 . The one you note below is model
981230, and its
range of conductivity is in miliSiemens. Dessalator says the system should
shut down at
1,000 microSiemens and will run normally in the 300-400 microSiemens range,
so I think
the one we want is the one calibrated in microSiemens.

I mis-spoke in my last post regarding the filter I put in place. I
purchased the parts from
West Marine as follows: SKU 1196377 Shurflo carbon block filter $36.99,
SKU 1234251
Shurflo mounting bracket kit $12.99, SKU 1194166 Shurflo Filter Housing
$47.99. The
only other thing I needed was some hose barb fittings, stainless worm
clamps, and the
1/2 ID hose.

Regards, Gary s/v Liahona
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@o...> wrote:

Hi,
Is this the meter you are using?


http://cgi.ebay.com/HANNA-DIGITAL-pH-HI-EC-TDS-CONDUCTIVITY-TESTER-
METER_W0Q
QitemZ4426000413QQcategoryZ42291QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







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