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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Hi Scott, I really can't say what I do is right, but here are a few things that seem to work for me so far. 1) I try to use more than half the tank before refueling to replace the old with fresh. That is dependent on having it available when you need it, but we are in the Caribbean. 2) we have avoided biodiesel. 3) I use StarTron treatment as that has been what was available when I have needed to replenish. 4) I leave the tank full during the off season to reduce condensation from air that enters thru the vent during the daily temperature cycles. 5) I have inspected my tank twice in 4 years when there was less than 200 liters in the tank (I could not see the bottom of the tank when there was more than 200 liters). The walls and floor we're shiny, but both times there were several small 50cm2 patches of slime on the floor. I attached a 2 meter length of small fuel hose to my fuel dipstick with a couple zip-ties and then stuck the end of the hose into the slime spot and sucked it up with a 5 liter vacuum fluid (oil)extractor. 6) I also shine a light thru the racor bowls regularly to monitor if any sludge is getting into them. The risk of running the fuel tank low is that rough seas will break loose and break up any accumulated sludge. Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sm #387, sv BeBe
On Sun, Feb 9, 2020, 9:28 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@... wrote: My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
There are only two ways to keep your fuel tank, when you store a boat:
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1) completely full, to the top 2) bone dry, empty. Chapter 1: The reason is that during the course of the day, air expands and contracts. If there is an air space in your fuel tank, air is constantly flowing into and out of the tank through the vent line, due to the normal expansion and contraction of air as the temperature rises and falls during the course of the day. The problem is that the fuel, a liquid, with a much higher specific heat (capacity to hold heat)remains at a more constant temperature. This heat sink of the fuel in the tank causes much of the water vapor in the air, to condense to liquid water in the tank. Only a little bit every day. A few months of this activity in a relatively humid (sea air) environment can produce a significant amount of liquid water, that settles to the bottom of your tank. Chapter 2: Diesel bug is an algae that has developed the ability to survive by eating diesel fuel, and using the water at the fuel water interface to get oxygen. So the bug lives, reproduces and dies in that fuel/water interface, producing the black gooey sludge. Having a partially empty tank exacerbates this problem. Storing your boat with completely full tanks eliminates the air space, so moist air does not get in and can’t condense its moisture in the fuel. An empty tank (difficult to do) doesn’t provide the heat sink to cause the water to condense so fast. It will to some extent, but not so rapidly. We’ve experienced this first hand. After cleaning our tank we were bug free for about 5 years, traveling through The Caribbean, storing the boat every hurricane season in the tropics. One season, we forgot to fill the tank, and had diesel bug the next cruising season. I also think using Biobor or equivalent, is a good thing. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Feb 9, 2020, at 9:28 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Hi Scott,
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Cleanliness is next to Godliness! So a certain amount of paranoia is a good thing. I did spend some time considering installing a fuel polishing system but in the end I decided to just keep a good eye on the primary fuel filters. Remember that when you run the engine or the generator most of the fuel is returned to the tank having been through the whole filter system. There is thus a good deal of self polishing from use. Nick S/Y Amelia AML 54 019 Kilada Greece
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Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?
Scott, When we received our 8 month and 800 sm old Amel 54 the bowthruster stopped to work because one cableshoe pressed on a very short cable on the motor was inside burned and produced its own electrical isolation . Greetings Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Hi Scott, The problem is ( in EU) Diesel contains 7 % Biodiesel which is hydrophil and this will bring water into the diesel and growth of bacteria = the dieselbug will follow. A good tested product in Germany is Grotamar , but you will find similar poducts in US. I use it since first filling. Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Porter McRoberts
Exactly all of what you do Scott. I also have about 20 2 micron racors and use the 2 micron as pre filters. I change more frequently too. Every 100 hrs or so. Id love to install a fuel polishing system. We use the biocide etc. On the BAJA we use the “Mr. Funnel system (amazon)” with two screens: it's very fast, as fast as I can pour from a Jerry can.
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And, of course as you suggest, lots of prayer. As you know we had lots of D3 issues. Even though our new “H” model runs beautifully, I would have gotten a Beta, had I been paying for it. Best of Luck Porter S/V IBIS A54-152
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Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Scott SV Tengah
My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.
I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there. Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels. What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help: 1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand. 2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel. One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter. 3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria. 4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard. Two micron in the Volvo, per spec. 5) Pray. What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bushing
Scott SV Tengah
Mike,
I have two aft seals facing out and fore seal facing in. "facing" to me indicates which way the spring is. I am about 650 hours on these seals and zero water ingress and zero drop in oil level. It was probably a bad installation but previously I did it "the Amel way" and had to haul out again at around 300 hours due to milky c drive oil. PS - where are you getting the work done in NZ? We will be there in November and will be due for a haul out then. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?
Scott SV Tengah
Our bow thruster was indeed wired through a switch, too.
I've worked with Sleipner to try to isolate the intermittent functioning problem to no avail. It runs full speed and then stops momentarily and then will start again. No slowdown to indicate drop in voltage. The Amel joystick has been cleaned and tested and shows nearly zero ohms on activation. Every switch and thermal protection within the Sidepower thruster has been "jumpered" and it still doesn't work. I was hoping the problem was the main battery switch but I moved the positive bow thruster supply wire from the secondary side of the switch directly to the battery side. The only thing left is the motor itself but the brushes and commutator look perfect. The annoying bit is that this motor is only a year old and Sleipner wants me to ship it back to them from Panama at my cost, wait for them to test it, get warranty approval, ship it back (at my cost) and pay customs duty. I might as well buy a new motor! With a canal appointment, I clearly don't want to do this. Anyone have any other ideas on what I should check? I haven't tested voltage at the BT during operation because I don't have alligator clips, but the fact that the BT either runs full speed or not at all, without any slowdown indicates to me that it's not an issue with enough voltage getting to the BT. --Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bushing
Hi Mike,
I suspect there is nothing new on this nor any particular consensus - it may well have migrated from engineering to philosophy ;-) If yours is fine you may want to follow the adage of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Or change it and in a couple of years add to the anecdotal evidence being accumulated. Cheers, Craig
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Re: rub rail insert
He Steve
i am intrested by the video too Best Elja SM Balu #222 Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Re: rub rail insert
Patrick McAneny
Steve, I would like to see the video,we are only six boats apart as I am #123. You could send it direct if you like , to sailw32@... ,or post it,others may be interested.
Thanks,
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Bode <Whatsup@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Sat, Feb 8, 2020 10:24 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert We did this job on Intention. It was not tricky...once we did it. Two man job, 45 min.
I can send you the video. -- Steve Bode Capt. SV Intention Amel SM #117 (1994) +1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco svintention.com
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Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
Herbert Lackner
Woody, search for "alignment" in the forum and you will find a lot of information, also what kind of mounts you need
a summary with info from Olivier: in order to re-align your engine with the C-drive, you need a fixed coupling as on the pictures and drawing. You don't need to install the shaft alternator pulley while checking alignment.
Before touching the tools, make pictures and take notes (measurements of all the fittings, position of the nuts on the rubber mounts, position of the engine on the steel cradle, position of the shaft brake disc, etc...). Start with disconnecting the hoses that could prevent you from moving the engine backwards on its cradle. Then undo the coupling bolts and the engine steel supports' bolts (attaching the engine on the steel cradle). Then move the engine backwards enough to remove the coupling bolts. Then comes the alignment process. AMEL uses a tool which is a steel coupling machined so that its aft side "enters" the gear-box flange (see pictures and drawing). You can also pre-install the new coupling and adjust the position of the mounts. First bring the engine forward and make sure the coupling is centered with the gear-box flange, and can enter the gap in the flange. Then move the engine a little bit backwards and check that the gap between the flange and the aft side of the coupler is even all around the circumference. To adjust this, you need "thickness wedges" (used in the automotive industry) and play with the rubber mounts nuts to make the gap even. Then bring the engine forward and tighten the bolts on the cradle and on the mounts.
The advantage of using the tool AMEL uses is that it is easier to install while checking the gaps. If you need to make one, here's a drawing of the alignment tool for a YANMAR 4JH3-HTE. The inside diameter (C-drive input shaft) is 35 mm. The outside diameter is 100 mm. The diameter of the part that enters the gear-box flange cylindric gap is 62.8 mm, thickness 3 mm.
You should use a VETUS fixed coupling for 35mm shafts, then have it machined to make the 62.8mm "plug" and drilled for the four bolts that should match the flange holes.
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Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
Herbert Lackner
attached you find the fotos of the alignment tool with the shaft alternator. it works, - but if I would build the tool again I would make it longer.
fair winds, herbert
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Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
eric freedman
Hi Herbert, Being that the disk brake has a long hub on it , I believe the normal alignment tool will work. The length of the hub on the brake disk compensates for the pulley on the alternator. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Herbert Lackner
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2020 11:43 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
Woody,
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Re: vetus coupling removal
eric freedman
Hi Michelle, Thank you for the excellent write-up of the work on your C drive. Do you happen to have a version in English? I could not open it to cut out portions to translate. Thanks Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of MICHELE LUCCIOLA
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2020 12:26 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] vetus coupling removal
Hi Herbert,
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An easy way to decouple the C drive.
eric freedman
The first photo is how I disassembled the C drive apparatus. The Disk brake hub and the C drive are exactly the same diameter—almost a pres fit.Yours is different.
When you have it apart take the part that connects to a machine shop and have them remove a few thousands from the inside diameter. Being that you do not have a disk brake the tool might or might not need modification. It also might be easier to disconnect the C drive from the attached mechanisms.
The alignment device is a copy of the more intricate one used by Amel. It was not my design. With the disk brake the bolts holding the disk to the coupling could not be removed. I cut them off and replaced them with a piece of threaded rod and nylocks to keep the assembly tight. I just check the nuts every year , so far they are as tight as installed. If you have any more questions please do not hesitate to contact me as I Will be changing out my engine in April and will have even more info. The PDF was from Olivier—
The disk is quite ugly and rusted. When I change out my engine , I am going to have one made of stainless steel. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Herbert Lackner
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2020 11:43 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
Woody,
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Re: Plastic part holding most spotlights &
Nicolas Klene
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Re: Measure
Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
Hi Stefano,
Maybe this helps you? The tape measure is in inches. Mike Longcor SV Trilogy - SM23 Opua, NZ
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Re: New Wheel Leather
Steve Bode
Wait, here's a better shot.
-- Steve Bode Capt. SV Intention Amel SM #117 (1994) +1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco svintention.com
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