On 19 Nov 2019, at 10:46, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

As I mentioned in an earlier post, a large bulging crack emerged from under the black collar on my inner down wind pole. My welder confirmed that the inner end sleeves are corroded and burst through the aluminum tube. I've contacted Maud to see if the ends are in stock or where they came from. Any sourcing suggestions would be appreciated, as the welder says he can't make a long term fix given the situation. If I can salvage the ends or source them, not sure where to source the tube...

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K 422

On Nov 17, 2019, at 5:37 PM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hello Amelians

I’m going to attempt to redo my bilge bonding strap connection as part of this winters growing list
Thanks to this forum for excellent tips and tricks on this project so far.

In terms of the wider problem though. . .

On my boat I can’t really tell where/how the bonding cable used to run aft from the engine room to a rudder / anode connectio

so a few questions that would be amazing for this groups insight on:


What items are bonded ?
I assume: keel bolt and rudder are originally bonded. Would be grateful to hear if other items were also originally bonded. Through hulls for example ?

Also I’m a bit confused about the original cable run. Bonding vs. The Grounding plate for ssb

Be great to know how your bonding cables run from the engine room / keel bolt, aft to the rudder aft.


On the transom there is a copper strip /plate that runs down from the aft interior transom locker. I presume this is to do with the ssb ground not bonding ?

Many thanks in advance

Miles
Maramu 162

Hi,

I installed an ACP 400 with hydraulic ram directly on the bell crank of the rudder.

Far smoother than the electric one which is still on tthe he helm.

In the event of a major steering failure, I can steer the boat through. The AP controls after disconnecting the offending rack and pinion... without resorting to hand steering for days on end.  

System is like Paul on Kerpa.

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, NZ

On 17 Nov 2019, at 08:00, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:



We installed the kit you referring to about 18 month ago, I still have my old Autohelm installed, Installed a switch for swapping between them. I am not totally sold on the new Raymarine had expect it to perform better. Very good up wind, but as soon as you get the wind aft of the beam it start to swing from side to side, after some tweaking and upgrade of software it is now better but fare from excellent.

Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259

Hello Santorin Owners,

I just bought a Santorin (Hull # 027) and playing with the Idea of having a folding prop instead of the fixed one - does anyone having experience with this. 

Volker
SY Aquamarine
Santorin 027

Hi Aldo,

After some new periods of heaving to, I thought I would share my experiences with the group and repeat the stories that I have told to you—please be patient, it is not all old.

The first time was in Hurricane Mitch which had crossed Florida back into the Atlantic, become a hurricane again, and was moving a 30 mph.   I had about two hours warning on my SSB (no satellite connections back then).  I prepared two drogues at the stern and a huge sea anchor at the bow.  The sea anchor was attached with 100 meters of big line, 20 meters of heavy chain, and another 100 meters of line.  I had the drogues and the sea anchor in the cockpit ready to be deployed.

When the storm arrived, I didn’t use the drogues because some of the waves were breaking and turning around didn’t seem to be a good idea; and before deploying the sea anchor, I wanted to see how long I could heave to.  I had about half the main out and a very small amount of jib, backed.  I have a big eye bolt about 2 feet under the engine controls for tying the wheel.  I used a heavy bungee that lets the wheel move some with the forces.  I tied the wheel so that the boat would head into the wind somewhat until a big wave landed on it and pushed it more sideways, after which it would head up for the next wave.  I had backed the jib because I was afraid the boat would tack through the wind.  It never came close.  The wind increased into the 60s and then the 70s.  The boat just kept doing the same thing and never felt in danger.  At some speed, the sails would have to have come down.  I was amazed that I didn’t feel this with the winds in the 70s.  The worst part was the noise.  Ear plugs would have helped.

Since then I have hove to in much less wind using just the main.  I have used this for repairs or for just a nice meal.   I find it remarkable how the sea appears to be more calm and the motion decreased when hove to. 

I had occasion to do a serious heaving to two weeks ago, on the way from Newport to Bermuda, I tried to race a storm across the Gulf Stream.  The storm won.  I hove to when the wind was in the thirties.  The wind increased into the forties and sometimes into the fifties.  I hove to under about half the main and the wheel tied with a very heavy bungee so that the boat would head up at about 2+ knots to about 40 degrees and then fall off to about 60-70 degrees and then head up again.  We averaged about 2 k forward speed.  As soon as I hove to, the commotion, the crashing into and off waves, and the waves washing over the boat simply stopped. Nothing landed in the cockpit.  The wind direction slowly changed and after 4-5 hours, I was able to add a little jib and sail out of the GS.  I think that the forereaching protects the rudder.  If the boat were to be thrown backwards by a wave, the forces on the rudder would be very great.

That is my experience. There is no “right way” to heave to.  I strongly recommend that everyone contemplating going off shore spend some time experimenting with different amounts of sail and rudder angles.  There will be some combination that feels best to you and to the boat. 

 

Regards,

Miles

s/y Ladybug, sm 216, resting at the dock at Le Marin, Martinique