Re: Opening Portlight Seals
marklesparkle59
Thank you Gerhard, I have some ordered. Have you ordered from Amel? Ive made 2 enquiries without any answer via the website contact page. Mark Sent from my Samsung device
-------- Original message -------- From: "Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io" <carcode@...> Date: 12/02/2020 08:53 (GMT+00:00) To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Opening Portlight Seals Hello Mark I have bought this foam rubber, cut it to the length needed, clued the ends together with superglue and fixed it in the window groove with contact adhesive. For the different portlights I have used 10 mm or 8 mm diameter foam rubber. https://www.gummiprofile24.de/epages/64048014.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/64048014/Categories/Produkte/%22EPDM%20Moosgummi-Rundprofile%20schwarz%22 -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: 220 volt exhaust blower replacement
JOHN HAYES
Hi Mike
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I have 2 new 12 volt fans in my Santorin purchased in Wellington last year they were about nz$ 30 each and a common industrial type and performed well during 4 months in the pacific and are going well as we motor towards banks peninsula without any wind on our way to the Auckland islands On the Santorin one fan sucks air in the other pushes it out through the port cockpit coaming The 2 fans move a significant volume of air Best John Hayes Nga Waka Sn 41
On 13/02/2020, at 2:56 PM, Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
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Re: Holding power of Mooring Ball required for hurricanes
The best protection from a direct hurricane hit is 100 nm.
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Grenada was hit by Ivan in 2004. It damaged most of the boats there. Grenada has learned since, and has improved their yard storage. Grenada, though on the south edge of the “box”, has seen a dozen or more hurricanes in the past 70 years. If I were to spend the season aboard, Grenada would be my choice. Given all big storms in that region originate in Africa, you have at least 5 days notice to hop 80 miles to Trinidad. Trinidad is out of the box. 3 hurricanes in 100 years. Two dozen tropical storms. When we were in the eastern Carib, we chose to leave the boat, on the hard, in Trinidad. Do NOT leave a boat you value, long term, unattended on a mooring. No one your paying to “watch” it will renew the mooring pennants during a storm. Your lines will chafe. You’ll lose the boat. So, my recommendation. Trinidad to leave the boat. Grenada to live aboard for the summer. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Feb 12, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Eamonn Washington <eamonn.washington@...> wrote:
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Re: 220 volt exhaust blower replacement
Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
Hi Thomas, Bob and Suzanne, anyone else with advice here,
Did you find a suitable 220V fan that you are happy with? I need to install something to keep the engine room cool while generator, water maker, battery charger, etc. are running. Currently I leave the engine room cover open when I can, not a good set up. Thomas, I like your idea of a less expensive industrial type fan. Did you find one that works? Can you recommend a brand, model, CFM rating? I'm currently in New Zealand if anyone has any suggestions of where to look. Cheers, Mike Longcor SV Trilogy - SM23 Opua, NZ
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Re: Tef-Gel excellent price from National Supply
Duralac is special stuff, but has a shelf life, and it shortens above 20°C.
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~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Feb 12, 2020, at 8:12 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
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Holding power of Mooring Ball required for hurricanes
Eamonn Washington
Hi
A mooring ball is rated in terms of holding power but I don’t understand what that means. I also don’t know what holding power is required to hold a Super Maramu in a hurricane. Could someone please explain if a 5t holding power would be sufficient or inadequate? I am trying to figure out what is the best option, to leave the boat on the hard (chocked and tied down) or in a marina (spider web of lines) or on a mooring ball. We wish to leave our boat in Grenada during the hurricane season while we will be away the entire time. (We will have someone check it regularly.) Should the water tank be full or empty? I guess if storing on land more weight is better, and in water less weight is better, but I am guessing. Thanks Eamonn Washington Travel Bug Super Maramu #151 Currently in Grenada
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Re: Tef-Gel excellent price from National Supply
eric freedman
Hi , Did you ever try Duralac? I have built 2 boats using this stuff. It is amazing and I believe it is better than Tef Gel. In addition it is a cream and when it dries it is somewhat like locktite. For example, I use it on my spurs line cutter and the set screws (grub) on my propeller. After 2 years it is still there and is a bit stubborn to remove—not like epoxy but you know that he screw is not going to loosen.
One tube will last many years. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/saddington-consultants-plus-duralac-anti-corrosion-jointing-compound USA
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of John Clark via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2020 6:38 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Tef-Gel excellent price from National Supply
Hi All,
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Tef-Gel excellent price from National Supply
John Clark
Hi All,
My boat-local West Marine ran out of Tef-Gel so I went online to order some and found a supplier that is much less costly than WestMarine...well that isn't saying anything novel is it? It is cheaper than Amazon too! By a lot. Tef-Gel is the goop that you use when connecting two dissimilar metals, like bolting the furling gears to the boom or mast, solar panels to the SS arch, and for external electrical connections. I have no connections to National Supply ...except being the guy who just bought five tubes. https://www.nationalsupplydirect.com/tef-gel-anti-seize-1oz-syringe.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA4Y7yBRB8EiwADV1haUAszB0IwwMVTbDn226XmhNVQNbSdhioXqw0OjQQgA06rlfjCv8UBhoC1d8QAvD_BwE John Clark SV Annie SM37 Brunswick GA
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Re: Howes fuel treatment
Hi Dan, in Europe you only get diesel with organic additives everywhere. In addition, the EU has passed a law on the use of effective additives for environmental reasons. Only professional users have access to such additives. In the meantime, various manufacturers are trying to find an effective replacement and have so far already had new products on the market. Grotamar, I think the best additive is no longer being manufactured. It is particularly important that the tank is full to keep the amount of oxygen as small as possible. I do not know which products are available to you. Liqui Moly and ERC are the alternatives I know currently in Europe. In countries such as Colombia (Cartagena), the problem should be known and additives should also be available. I hope it helps you in your decision, air and water are the biggest enemy of biodiesel as well as the time of storage because it is organic. Best Arnold SY Zephyr SM203 Am 12.02.2020 um 19:45 schrieb Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...>: Thanks Arnold, it would be helpful to know if you were refueling with bio-diesel? And if you were in a hot tropical location? I have the dilema of being in Cartagena where they sell bio-diesel. I currently have 475 liters and need to decide if I top up before heading out or wait until I can reach a country with better fuel, but risk running the tank to less than 1/3. Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, sm #387. On Tue, Feb 11, 2020, 8:08 PM Arnold Mente via Groups.Io <Arnold.mente=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
Arnold Mente Urbaniweg 12 -- Arnold SY Zephyr SM203
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Re: Howes fuel treatment
Thanks Arnold, it would be helpful to know if you were refueling with bio-diesel? And if you were in a hot tropical location? I have the dilema of being in Cartagena where they sell bio-diesel. I currently have 475 liters and need to decide if I top up before heading out or wait until I can reach a country with better fuel, but risk running the tank to less than 1/3. Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, sm #387.
On Tue, Feb 11, 2020, 8:08 PM Arnold Mente via Groups.Io <Arnold.mente=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
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SPAM - one got through
You haven't seen any email SPAM until this morning. I apologize for that. I made a mistake and accidentally approved the SPAM email. I deleted it a few minutes ago. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: Opening Portlight Seals
Gerhard Mueller
Hello Mark
I have bought this foam rubber, cut it to the length needed, clued the ends together with superglue and fixed it in the window groove with contact adhesive. For the different portlights I have used 10 mm or 8 mm diameter foam rubber. https://www.gummiprofile24.de/epages/64048014.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/64048014/Categories/Produkte/%22EPDM%20Moosgummi-Rundprofile%20schwarz%22 -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Opening Portlight Seals
marklesparkle59
Good morning, can anyone share their experience of buying and fitting seals for the opening portlights, the photographs are from a 1983 Sharki.
If Maud is the answer how is she contacted? Thank you. Mark Porter Sea Hobo Sharki #96
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Re: turning direction of prop and thread pitch - Santorin
Volker Hasenauer <volker.hasenauer@...>
Hi Olivier, I am quite certain that I have the aluminum casing - so that would mean I have the RH version. What does RH standing for....probably "right...."? Would you know the pitch of the thread? Its a M 20 thread...but no pitch has been mentioned and my boat is in the water..... Many thanks, Volker
On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 10:27 AM Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io <atlanticyachtsurvey=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: turning direction of prop and thread pitch - Santorin
Beaute Olivier
Hi Volker,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Originally, this Santorin has an aluminum casing C-drive, labelled CATEP, with a RH pitch propeller. Since 1990, the drive may have been replaced with a cast iron casing one, and if so, the prop is a LH. Check the casing with a magnet, or send a picture of the drive top unit. Olivier Envoyé de mon iPhone
Le 11 févr. 2020 à 01:37, Volker Hasenauer <volker.hasenauer@...> a écrit :
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Re: Howes fuel treatment
Hi I just want to get to the heart of this long discussion. I have 30 years of positive experience with a full tank and an additive for diesel. There was never water in the tank and organic pollution. Last year I was so smart not to do this because lack of wind had covered a distance of 1500 SM under motor and had refueled several times. The result after 2 months in the port with a 1/4 full tank and without Grotamar (additiv) in the diesel was a complete algae infestation of the tank and lines before the winter break and the refilling of the tank. I can highly recommend filling the tank completely with the addition of a good additiv at every opportunity and before any longer standstill. There was a great deal of effort in cleaning the tank and completely replacing the lines and the filter system. Best Arnold SY Zephyr SM203 Am 12.02.2020 um 01:45 schrieb Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...>: There is a third reason to keep the tank reasonably full. As the tank gets closer to empty the sloshing of the remaining fuel at lower levels will begin to stir up that sludge cocktail at the bottom and it will begin to enter your fuel system. You can see it in the Racor bowls, if may increase your vacuum gauge if you have it in the Racor and it can clog your fuel line. Last season another boater (non Amel) had engine trouble and changed his fuel filter. He then experienced air seeping into his fuel lines around the Racor connections. In the end it turned out that was because his fuel line was so clogged. He borrowed my suction fluid extractor and sucked about 20 liters of crud and fuel off the bottom of his tank before he had it clean enough to proceed. When they were stopped they were not in a location with easy access to fuel polishing services. He believes what broke it all loose was a very rough passage with low fuel levels. Regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, sm # 387, currently in Cartagena
On Tue, Feb 11, 2020, 5:41 PM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
-- Arnold SY Zephyr SM203
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Re: Howes fuel treatment
There is a third reason to keep the tank reasonably full. As the tank gets closer to empty the sloshing of the remaining fuel at lower levels will begin to stir up that sludge cocktail at the bottom and it will begin to enter your fuel system. You can see it in the Racor bowls, if may increase your vacuum gauge if you have it in the Racor and it can clog your fuel line. Last season another boater (non Amel) had engine trouble and changed his fuel filter. He then experienced air seeping into his fuel lines around the Racor connections. In the end it turned out that was because his fuel line was so clogged. He borrowed my suction fluid extractor and sucked about 20 liters of crud and fuel off the bottom of his tank before he had it clean enough to proceed. When they were stopped they were not in a location with easy access to fuel polishing services. He believes what broke it all loose was a very rough passage with low fuel levels. Regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, sm # 387, currently in Cartagena
On Tue, Feb 11, 2020, 5:41 PM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
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Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
eric freedman
Woody, You adjust the engine mounts with the tool against the transmission output flange. Once the tool is centered on the flange you then continue to adjust the mounts until there is a plus or minus .002 clearance between the flange and tool all the way around.. That means the shafts are perfectly aligned. You then remove the tool and drop the engine back on to the mounts and tighten the engine mounts—USE new nylocks. You can then reassemble the drive chain. I don’t know if you have to cut the connecting bolts to disassemble the assembly. If you do you can use threaded rod and nylocks to replace the cutoff bolts. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan "Woody" Wood
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2020 11:51 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
That’s all really helpfull, thanks for that Herbert. So you slide the tool back and forth on the shaft to get the alignment right before bringing the engine and shaft back together after the jobs are done? Unfortunately i’ll Still have to remove the shaft alternator to get to the leak on the flywheel bell housing I think :/ but certainly feel more comfortable abor starting the job now.
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Re: Howes fuel treatment
John Clark
Hi Bernd, When I purchased SM37 in 2016 the previous owner stressed to me to always keep the tank full and to always use the Baja filter. He said in the 16 years he had her no one drop of fuel went into the tank other than through the Baja. He did two circumnavigations and claims to never have had an issue. I followed his advice. A year into my ownership, I performed maintenance changing out the Racor filter and the Volvo engine filter. Both were clean. I intentionally ran the diesel tank dry and used a boroscope to inspect the tank and found it also spotless. I continued to use the Baja filter and also add a Biocide each time I fill up. There are two reasons to keep the tank full, one is it prevents condensation from forming in the tank as temperature changes. Gas expands and contracts with temperature and draws in moisture. In a climate with daily temperature changes the cycle can pull in a notable amount of moisture after a period. The moisture aids in the growth of bio-organisms that feed on diesel. Second reason at least for me in the Atlantic and Caribbean, is to have the ability to run from a hurricane at a moments notice. Amels have large tanks which give them excellent range in a pinch I like to have that capability. Regards, John John Clark SV Annie SM 37 Brunswick GA
On Mon, Feb 10, 2020 at 10:13 AM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
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Re: Howes fuel treatment
Herbert Lackner
Bernd,
the SN tank (I assume that SN119 is exact the same as SN120) has about 5l fuel (or a cocktail of fuel and water...) at the bottom of the tank that will stay there if you run it empty. I know it because we pumped out all fuel when we had water in the fuel last spring. The original Volvo water seperator is not enough, we installed a Racor filter with water separator after the volvo water separator and water startet to collect there that just ran through the (almost empty) Volvo water separator. When the Volvo alarm lamp turned on the Racor was already full with water, and some water was already in the fuel filter installed at the engine. Without the additional Racor we would have been in serious troubles on our way to hawaii. it is a must to install one on the SN if it is not there. If you have water in your tank (and it is more likely to get water in your tank in the carribean than in the med) it will be a bigger problem if you do not have a good filled tank, the less fuel you have with some nice waves the more the water at the bottom will be mixed with the diesel. I did underestimate this effect. Simply adding fuel from the jerry cans and filling up the tank made a big difference in the hourly amount of water we had in the water separator. We used a vacuum pump that can be used for the oil change (with a very thin flexible but stiff hose) to reach the bottom of the tank , not beeing hindered by the baffle-plates. keeping you tank full is a wise decision herbert, SN120, Pacific Mexico
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