Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
Thanks perfect
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On Jan 5, 2020, at 8:17 AM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Thomas Peacock
Hi Andre,
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Not sure about dimensions on the Mango, it worked well on my SM. Check your holes and clearance above the sink. I used "Comllen Commercial Stainless Steel Single Handle Pull Out Kitchen Faucet, Single Lever Pull Down Brushed Nickel Kitchen Faucets Without Deck Plate”, available at Amazon for $47. Installation was pretty straightforward. I may have had to widen the hole for the hoses on the back of the sink a little bit with a rasp. The plumbing connections, if my memory is correct (always suspect) were plug-and-play. If not, then an adapter was readily available at the local hardware store. My only regret is that I had not done it years before. Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Martinique
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
These pictures should explain:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Kaplan,Andre
Tom
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Can you share the type and model of the new faucet you installed and where you sourced it?
Thank you
Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71,1988
Westbrook, CT
On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
JOSE PRIETO
Hello Michael, Thank you for the idea.
I'll leave in line for another possible solution.
I checked the two hoses on the outside of the boiler and both are very hot - that means hot water is all over the water system and on the way back to the boiler it reheats. I am thinking of installing a checkvalve on the boiler cold water inlet hose imagining that the problem may be inside the boiler and not the taps. Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
You can install a thermo mixing valve on the outlet of the water heater. This will limit the temperature to 50 to 60 Celsius in the hot side.
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Hello guys,
Thanks for the feedback again, Following Newington's reasoning, I think installing the check valve could solve the consequence, but not the cause of the problem. I'll probably do it if nothing else works.
Changing the tap as Thomas Peacock suggested, I will no doubt have a better system, but I haven't solved the source of the problem either.
I did some tests yesterday, removing the core from the galley faucet, and cleaning up the calcium buildup in the water mixing chamber, where through the oring could be running hot water from side to side. I reassembled the system with silicone grease, and the same problem happened again.
I considered swapping the core of the bathroom sink faucets for Galey's and testing it again.
I need to figure out how to lower the boiler water temperature, because I live in the marina and leave very little to navigate using the engine.
Good puzzle I got for myself. Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323
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Re: removing the rudder on a SM2K
Jean-Pierre Massicotte
Hello Olaf, I have a Santorin, the built is very similar, I would send the pictures to SAV Amel for comments. In my case I had similar cracks along the rudder shaft and after consulting Amel was told not to worry and repair those cracks with epoxy pastes since that part was not structural! Remember those rudder are hollow construction. The back end are essentially fairing. Since then I have done over 35 000 NM without problems. Hopefully the repair was done correctly using Amel technic. Best regards JP
On Sat., Jan. 4, 2020, 20:35 Olaf Bauer, <olaf.bauer@...> wrote: Hello AMELians,
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removing the rudder on a SM2K
Hello AMELians,
does anyone have experiences with removing the rudder on a SM2K and could provide the steps (a how to) and what I have to consider while de-installing the rudder? It seems that the previous owner hit something with the result that the rudder was broken out to the direction starboard. It also seemed that the PO repaired it but unfortunately not all, in a bad way or it got the cracks afterwards on the portside (see attached pic). The crack is on port side and highlighted in yellow in one of the attached pic. Thanks so much in advance. Fair winds Olaf
S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392 currently in Trinidad
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
Arno
could you be more clear about the stanchion I am not sure where it is
thanks
Courtney
sv Trippin
54 #101
-----Original Message-----
From: Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Fri, Jan 3, 2020 11:21 am Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54) Dear forum,
I discovered some water ingress in the rear locker of the boat and traced it back to failing sealant under the foot of the removable stanchion. So I removed the foot to discover a bit of sloppy work from Amel. The hole goes trough the sandwich-deck leaving the balsa core exposed. The protection with caulking is insufficient as the three bolts that hold the foot cannot hold the foot completely in place as the sandwich flexes around the hole (compression of the balsa) ever so slightly. After some years this will cause the caulking to loose its seal and water will get to the balsa core. On the long run this will have very bad consequences for the deck. To remedy this I remove all caulking and removed the balsa core as far as I could between the two glass-fiber layers (about 3 or 4 cm deep). This also clears the three bolt-holes. Next I made sure it dried out completely, Impregnated the cavity as best I could with thin epoxy. After the epoxy set I filled the cavity completely with thickened epoxy. After this epoxy was set I re-drilled the boltholes. Finally I replaced the stanchion-foot with some Sikaflex. Because the boltholes are now in massive material you can properly tighten them, making the foot more stable and making the life for the caulking easier. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: New companionway lock source
Karen Smith
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Re: Propshaft alternator on 1985 Mango
Kaplan,Andre
Thanks for those insights
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Andre
On Jan 4, 2020, at 4:31 AM, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Thomas Peacock
One last idea, regardless:
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If you have the original Amel faucet mechanism (which I assume is similar to that on our boat), I would replace it no matter what the problem turns out to be. Our faucet was very simple, a hot/cold mixing control, and the rigid faucet. I replaced it with a more modern faucet, which has two extra features: a switch to select either regular flow or spray, and an inner hose extension which allows the faucet to be pulled out of its base. Both of these features greatly enhance dish washing, and reduce water usage. Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Martinique
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
I suggest you install check valves (one way valve) on the cold side before the mixer tap. This will prevent hot water working it’s way into the cold side.
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It is a common problem especially when motoring as the hot water gets up to 80 degrees Celsius and will be at a slightly higher pressure than the cold. Nick S/Y Amelia AML 54 Greece
On 4 Jan 2020, at 09:58, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Guys,
Thanks for your advices. I'm living on board the boat in Alicante - Spain. Cheers Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323
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Re: Propshaft alternator on 1985 Mango
Gerhard Mueller
-- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: Propshaft alternator on 1985 Mango
Gerhard Mueller
On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 11:42 PM, Kaplan,Andre wrote:
As a Mango owner, I’m interested to know how you engage the alternator? Do you put the gearshift into forward or reverse while sailing? I understand there may be a difference depending on Model and year of the boatMy Sharki from 1982 has a sticker near the gear shift level saying not to have the level in forward position and engine off while sailing. Using the propshaft alternator the level must be in neutral position. I have an instrument panel for the propshaft alternator with a switch key, an indicator lamp and an amp meter above the corridor to the aft cabine. Depending the state of the battery the amp meter shows during sailing with about 6 knots 8 to 10 amps. The propshaft alternator is a 40 Amps 12V Bosch type. Rebuilding such an alternator does any good car repair shop for electric equippment. The regulator is a cheap part you can buy at every car shop. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: New companionway lock source
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi JP. You will need to take your key to mobile locksmith kaitaia. Regards Danny
On 04 January 2020 at 17:58 Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Richard Colebatch
Hi Brent, How did your last Amel trip go? I think I am right aren't I? Rgds Richard
On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 4:34 PM Brent Cameron <brentcameron61@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
I had a very similar situation to that one time in my house…. I woke up one morning to find that the water in the toilet bowl was steaming! Thankfully, I realized it before splashing myself. It turned out to be the mixing valve in the shower that allowed hot water to go back around to the cold side - they need to have very nearly equal pressure on both sides or they can act up apparently. Anyway, I couldn’t change the valve without destroying the tile so installed check valves in the supply lines to them which solved the problem. It’s been working fine for 22 years since then with no more unintentionally sterilized toilet bowls.
On Jan 3, 2020, 6:21 PM -0500, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...>, wrote:
This sounds like a brain-teaser offered up by a radio show. --
Brent Cameron Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada
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