Date   

Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

ngtnewington Newington
 

Arno there are two models. The 250 GPH and the 500GPH. I think the 500 will do 24000 BTU

Nick

On 15 Sep 2020, at 17:46, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Actually they claim only 12000 BTU (see website). Forget about the 35 lpm capacity. The resistance in the circuit is substantial. My guess would be more close to 10 lpm.

Arno


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Arno Luijten
 

Actually they claim only 12000 BTU (see website). Forget about the 35 lpm capacity. The resistance in the circuit is substantial. My guess would be more close to 10 lpm.

Arno


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Arno,

Yes I am inclined to agree with you especially in terms of  BTU I have two 8000 and one 10000 which comes to 26000BTU. Which is more than the 24000 the pump claims as it’s capacity.

However on the sticker placed on the units they all require 9 litres per hour. When actually they will get 31-35 litres per hour but the last aircon in the circuit will have warmer water as the coolers are one circuit in series.

I was wondering if anyone had tried this pump out, as although not expensive and maybe worth a try it could be a bit of a waste of time..

Nick

Amelia (stores ashore in Leros)

 AML 54-019


On 15 Sep 2020, at 16:23, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Interesting find. This is their website http://www.seaflo.com/en-us/product/detail/3160.html
Seems happy with both 50 and 60 Hertz and is even submersible.

However the specs seem to pose a problem for most Amels (see first line below):

- For use with AC system up to 12,000 BTU.
- More than 10,000 hours lifetime.
- 8.5GPM seawater circulation pump.
- Run dry safe for normal workloads.
- Continuous duty.
- Replace any brand marine air conditioning pump.

Amels typically have around 30k BTU (about 9kW of cooling power)  aircon (three units combined).
The flow rate suggests that the output resistance may be the problem. Output resistance can be seen a the height (head) the water needs to be elevated after the pump.

Looking at details you can see the Seaflow does approx. 36 lpm at zero head and 4 lpm at 6 meter head.
Calpeda does 80 lpm at 9 meter head and 25 lpm at 12 meter head
The latter also uses twice the electrical power.

So my guess is that the pump lacks the power to push enough water trough the pipes. I did the same exercise some time ago with March pumps and found the same problem.

Kind regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: main sail furler gear box maramu 1986

James Alton
 

Philippe,

   My boat is a 1987 model Maramu.  Removal of the electric powered gearbox at the bottom is simple.  Just remove the four lower bolts.  I was unable to remove the manual gearbox on my boat after removing all of the rest of the fasteners for apparently the same reason you stated.  While there is some vertical play in the extrusion it is not enough to slide it up enough to clear the shaft sticking out of the top of the manual gearbox that extend into the extrusion.  Removing the bolts holding the manual gearbox allows the box to drop some but the movement is limited since the long shaft for the winch handle goes through the front of the mast so again not enough clearance to free the extrusion.  Inspecting the top of my mast there is  a top plate that the extrusion is attached to and serves as a top bearing.  When the extrusion is lifted it is this plate that the extrusion is hitting.  I believe if that plate were removed that the extrusion could be lifted to disengage at the bottom from the shaft on the manual gearbox.  I have not yet tried this since my mast is up, time was limited and this would be a bit of a project working from the top of the mast.  It would be great if someone knows of a more simple way to remove the manual gearbox as I would like to service mine.  I did clean and regrease my main swivel without removing it as you can see from the photos.  Replacement of the seals and or bearings is impossible without removal of the swivel from the extrusion.   I am glad that you asked this question.  If anyone knows how to disengage the main furler extrusion from the top of the manual gearbox please let us know.

Best,
James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220





On Sep 15, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Philippe Belloir <pbelloir@...> wrote:

precision. i found this photo see attachement
at the step 2, impossible to go up enough to liberate the swivel.
The slot on the furling tube in the mast is just in front (i take the sail out)
any advise, solution,
thank yyou
Philippe <Steps to remove mainsail swivel gearbox on Maramu.jpeg>


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Arno Luijten
 

Interesting find. This is their website http://www.seaflo.com/en-us/product/detail/3160.html
Seems happy with both 50 and 60 Hertz and is even submersible.

However the specs seem to pose a problem for most Amels (see first line below):

- For use with AC system up to 12,000 BTU.
- More than 10,000 hours lifetime.
- 8.5GPM seawater circulation pump.

- Run dry safe for normal workloads.

- Continuous duty.
- Replace any brand marine air conditioning pump.

Amels typically have around 30k BTU (about 9kW of cooling power)  aircon (three units combined).
The flow rate suggests that the output resistance may be the problem. Output resistance can be seen a the height (head) the water needs to be elevated after the pump.

Looking at details you can see the Seaflow does approx. 36 lpm at zero head and 4 lpm at 6 meter head.
Calpeda does 80 lpm at 9 meter head and 25 lpm at 12 meter head
The latter also uses twice the electrical power.

So my guess is that the pump lacks the power to push enough water trough the pipes. I did the same exercise some time ago with March pumps and found the same problem.

Kind regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Anchor sizing

Dominique Sery
 

Hello,
 
With my 54 I had several failures with the supplied original Wasi 30 kg anchor which I consider undersized and decided to change the size and brand.
After a long hesitation, I installed a Rocna of 55 kg 3 years ago.
I sail in Greece and I often have sudden gusts of wind.
Now, since this change, the anchor has never failed (even with 50 knots of wind at anchor).
No regrets and the anchor goes very well in the davit.
 
Dominique
Irko 1 A54-16


Re: main sail furler gear box maramu 1986

Philippe Belloir
 

precision. i found this photo see attachement
at the step 2, impossible to go up enough to liberate the swivel.
The slot on the furling tube in the mast is just in front (i take the sail out)
any advise, solution,
thank yyou
Philippe


Re: Anchor sizing

Courtney Gorman
 

FYI delos did modify their anchor roller to accept the Mantus


-----Original Message-----
From: Sheriffdep via groups.io <velocitybts@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Sep 14, 2020 8:12 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Anchor sizing

From mostly what I have read the Mantus actors are one of the best and a solid choice in any anchoring conditions. Not heard a negative thing about them. Delos put a "80lb" or thereabout one on and it fit the SM2k bow. I have also heard the Mantus swivels are the swivels of choice. Not cheap for any of it but that is one area where I will not go cheap to save a buck. Peace of mind so to speak. Hope this helps


SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

ngtnewington Newington
 

Has anyone tried this Seaflo air con circulating pump?

It is the magnetic type, so no risk of leaks.
My existing one is a big beast and still works but a bit fragile now.
According to the labels on the Units I need 3 x 9 litres per minute. So 27 which is less than this one..


Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000

Steve Bell s/y Dusk SM378
 

Hi Mike.
              Since we purchased Dusk and the  the previous owners have  had start problems with the genset .

They even had parrelled a smaller battery next to the genset which helped but in hindsight was not a good idea as the batteries were not the same.rating and the smaller battery was being overcharged so i was determined to try and resolve the problem.

I had the genset serviced and had the fuel.pump negative solenoid  terminal block all replaced  which seemed.to.fix the problem however within 24hrs i was back to square one.

The owner of the company who serviced the genset was extremely embarrassed and personally came out to try and find the problem. 2hrs later the problem seems.to be solved and bolied down to a faulty k3 relay for.the pre heat plugs as we are in the  meditterean he said it was not neccassary to pre heat the plugs with he present weather conditions  so he removed it and suggested i buy a new one when i got the chance he suggested to try and get a 70amp one as opposed to the present 30amp one

For 3.months we have not had a problem starting the genset with the realy removed whilst this may not be your problem it may be worthwhile removing the relay and trying it out.

We purchased a new relay for 7 euro


regards
steve
s/y Dusk




locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

He good morning
You use 200 AH at ancor ? It ist too much we need 120 Ah in summer in greece .
What yo have running ?
When i at see i woud take a hydro generator .

Best Elja
SM Balu 222





Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Re: Anchor sizing

Craig Briggs
 

Love my Mantus and would never switch (unless a new new thing comes out), but one time it was so solidly set that the shank bent about 30° while retrieving it in the morning after an overnight current and wind shift. It was so well set that the windlass couldn't break it out and I had to motor directly over it and needed some substantial rpms to break it free. So even at a 1:1 scope it was still holding like crazy. (No rocks - just hard mud in the ICW off Mar-A-Lago.) They sent me a new shank at no cost. They are a super anchor, but nothing's bullet proof. The Mantus T-shirt rocks, though.
Cheers, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Sheriffdep
 

Thank you Scott for the additional information!!!!!

Going back to basics for this topic:

1. Building a bank out of cells - from what I can see the really good cells that can be bought and put together (Will Prowse website) costs are around 1k for a 24v 100ah battery. However not sure how things add up with other cells. Plus adding a good BMS and a separate Battery Conditioner to wire to the investor for higher amp loads etc... price seems to be about half of the BB 400ah 24v setup. 

Questions for that - is it worth doing all the setup yourself and not entirely having the warranty for 10yrs to save maybe half or less? I am all for DIY and can learn to do it but my goal would be to get much more amp hr's for less or similar money but have at least the same known reliability. 

2. I am understanding the LFEPO4 batts should be kept between 80% and 30%. so that turns a 400ah bank into a 200ah useful plus whatever solar you may have. From my calculations on a SM2k I would be using at anchor without using the AC around 200ah per day.  It seems with the electronics running for passage you would add another 150ah + to your daily use. (chart plotter is 5ah so 2x of them would be 100ah for the day). Also if you increase the bank size you then would be using less cycles than if you didn't increase it. 

The LFEPO4 batteries claim 80%SOC at the end of 3K cycles +.  From several YouTube boats showing a year on the LFEPO4 batts and having around 1k solar watts they showed using approximately 115 cycles for that year. That would mean 10yrs or so for 1k cycles. Batts mathematically should last at least 30yrs at the same rate. 

Ok we don't trust them that much and they haven't been around long enough but doing the math nothing even comes close to comparing. It seems a no brainer to go with them but now the choice for most of us is whether we DIY a bank or go the BB route. 


Re: Anchor sizing

Sheriffdep
 

From mostly what I have read the Mantus actors are one of the best and a solid choice in any anchoring conditions. Not heard a negative thing about them. Delos put a "80lb" or thereabout one on and it fit the SM2k bow. I have also heard the Mantus swivels are the swivels of choice. Not cheap for any of it but that is one area where I will not go cheap to save a buck. Peace of mind so to speak. Hope this helps


Re: Anchor sizing

Bryce Procter
 

Hi Tuen,

If you purchase the chain within 60 days of departure you should also be able to claim back the 10% GST.

Cheers

Bryce


Re: Mango fuel filter question

Craig Briggs
 

Hi James & Arlo,
It's not an issue as I don't think Arlo is looking for a replacement, but the CAV unit James linked is quite different and doesn't have the "sedimenter sensor"  as the Perkins version does. These units are actually labeled as Perkins parts with their blue logo (certainly manufactured for Perkins). I suspect they are discontinued, but any brand with an electric sedimenter sensor would work if you needed it.
Cheers, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000

Mark Erdos
 

It should be noted that in the Onan instructions and on the remote start
switch it states 20 seconds in the maximum for the pre-heat.


With best regards,

Mark

Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io]
On Behalf Of Jose Venegas via groups.io
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 9:14 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000

Hi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed
to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts
every time. I hope this helps you.
Hi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed
to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts
every time. I hope this helps you.


Solenoid question

smiles bernard
 

Hello all
I have a question that i am struggling with and wondered if the amel hive mind could shed some light.
I recently disconnected all batteries and solar
I then reconnected and seem to have lost control of my windlass and furler solenoids.

The furler is the easiest to access the electrics on so I’ve been rummaging about with a multimeter

The solenoid has power
The Control switches in the cockpit have power
The Cable from these cockpit switches to the solenoid control terminals is continuous. No inline fuses that I can see and in good shape yet the voltage at these solenoid terminals is <1 volt when the switches are activated.

I have yet to try and feed 12v to the solenoid control terminals direct but can’t think how I’m getting the almost complete voltage drop.

The windlass solenoid is in the same locker in the forepeak. I’ve tested it less but again it has power yet is not working.

Bit flummoxed
Any thoughts or suggestions most welcome

Perhaps I caused a voltage surge reconnecting my batteries? But no fuses in the control lines that I can see.

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


Re: Mango fuel filter question

smiles bernard
 

Hi there 
Yes I also have one in my maramu + Perkins M65
Just a water filter & no cartridge to replace 
On our boat this then leads to a dual spin on primary filter unit and then finally onto the secondary Engine mounted filter 
I just drain it occasionally into a glass jar and see what’s lurking in the bowl. So far it’s always been clean btw. 
All the best
Miles


On 14 Sep 2020, at 20:00, James Alton via groups.io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Arlo,

  My apologies.  After taking a closer look, I think that Craig is correct that what you have is a fuel water separator that does not have a filter inside.  I was looking at the top portion of your photo which looks identical to the filter housing that I have on my boat but the bottom part of yours does look different than mine.   I believe that this link shows what you have:  https://www.asap-supplies.com/products/drive-force-cav-fuel-separator-45lph-alloy-bowl-302005  

Best,

James Alton



On Sep 14, 2020, at 12:38 PM, Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:

Hello there. So I am.looking to change my fuel filters (routine service) and I  have no idea what the original Amel fuel system used for this filter. I have already changed the one on the engine but not this little gem...I have a Mango. Any ideas ? It is attached to the tank selector valve <20200914_094926.jpg><20200914_094918.jpg>


Re: Bow-thruster repair at anchor

Paul Osterberg
 

Grant thank you! 
I ordered from Maud at Amel, where I order most of the spare parts 
Paul