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Canvas

Courtney Gorman
 

Hi all while I’m holed up in Brunswick it’s time for me to have the soft part of my dodger remade any suggestions of someone who does good canvas work in the area I have tried in vain to get a hold of topstitch out of Jacksonville so someone knows somebody local that’s good I would appreciate the info
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Brunswick
Re: Mainsail manual furler lubricant

Craig Briggs
 
Edited

Hey Kent and Iris - welcome back to America!

As Robbie Burns wrote, "The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men Gang aft agley" 
- sounds like you're one of many with cruising plans changed due to C-19. Hopefully you'll be able to get out there in the not-too-distant future.

Regarding your furler gearboxes, there's a thread from 2016 you can search for more discussion, but Bonfiglioli ships their's with Shell Tivela S320 and calls it "lifetime" lubrication, with a 25,000 hour life. There are many equivalent Industrial Synthetic gear oils out there that a google search will bring up. 

That being said, our application with infrequent short duration use really doesn't demand the hi-tech oil.  Perhaps more importantly, the harsh environment with risk of sea water intrusion past the lip seals may argue for the addition of Zerk fittings enabling frequent greasing that many of us have done. That you've had years with no water intrusion is great so you may want to choose to continue as is - no "right" answer.

Cheers,
Craig - if the Covid subsides we may scoot up your way - will let you know.
Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thank you Randall for the detailed explanation.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall via groups.io
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 3:28 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

 

Hello Mohammad and Aty,

 

Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched

Unbolt the furler from the foil, I used the uphaul to raise the foil enough to clear furler. Remove 2 bolts that hold furler to the mast.

Then you will need a sturdy vice and a form of wrap to protect the aluminium casing from the vice teeth.

 

First loosen the bottom, counter clockwise. Just a turn or two.

Then remove the cranking shaft, (keeping the cracking shaft in the furler, while loosening in the bottom, just helps hold the furler while loosening the bottom.)

Then finish removing the bottom. Caution first set of bearings are under the bottom cap.

 

The tool I showed was a square metal bar with two holes. The holes are the same spacing as the furler holes. The drill bits are the same size and simply use the bottom of the drill bits through the bar, and that will give you the ability to undo the end cap counter clockwise, and still have the two drill bits for future use.

 

All that was required was to clean everything inside? Were you able to reuse the bearing?

The bearings are dry, the same as in your travelers. I simply cleaned them and put them back in, no grease. They were very coated in salt, but not damaged.

The main issue was the Delrin/plastic inserts for the crank. After very carefully removing the Delrin, I cleaned and as I recall used some lithium grease on the gear shaft.

If I had to guess, the grease may not have been needed. 

 

 

Any other parts or lubrications needed?

If the mizzen is only stiff this can be done in a short time. I have attached the problem area picture and one from Bill Rouse showing the Delrin. I believe this is from his book, showing the Delrin pieces, there are two.

Also the holes in my furlers bottom did go straight through to give drainage as you can see in the teardown picture.

The hole project should only be time and some white grease.

Reassembly had only one puzzle ring moment! When you go to put the upper bearings in, push the internal mechanism in to a point you can just fit the upper bearings in then the rest will be easy.

 

Hope that helps,

Randall

 

On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 10:46 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Randall;

 

Although our “temporary” fix of spraying CorrosionX in the furler has lasted over 4 years and the furler is still very smooth, it has been on our list to service the unit, once we figure out how to get into it. I have a few questions that I would appreciate your response on:

 

  1. Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched?
  2. All that was required was to clean everything inside?
  3. Were you able to reuse the bearing?
  4. Any other parts or lubrications needed?

 

Thanks for providing this very useful information and sharing your experience.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:41 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

 

Thomas,

I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 

I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s

They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.

Cheers.

 

Randall

A54 #56

Gibraltar

 

 

 

On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:

Hi all,

 

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 

So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 

It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

 

Thanks for your input

 

Best, 

 

 

Thomas

GARULFO 

A54-122

Tahuata, French Polynesia 

 

 
Mainsail manual furler lubricant

karkauai
 

Hi all,
I hope everyone is staying healthy and enjoying where ever you are locked down.

Iris and I were headed to Panama when everything shut down. After 2 weeks in Antigua and no end in sight, we sailed back to St Michaels, MD. We had to heave-to 3 times to wait for fronts to pass with 30+ kt N winds before we could get across the Gulf Stream. 17-day passage, counting hove-to time.

We are home again and I am working on some previously neglected items.  I've removed the manual furler from the main sail foil to find the foil's circumference about 30% eroded by the bolt.  Thanks for the heads-up on that issue.
The gearbox was a little stiff, so I've disassembled it for cleaning and replacing the seals.  Pat (Shenanigans) did a nice write-up which Bill R has reproduced in his book. Thanks!

After 20 years, the gearbox was in great shape with no water intrusion, and no leakage of lubricant out of the gearbox. It was full of a lubricant that is much thinner than grease, but thicket than motor oil.  Does anyone know what lubricant was used?

Thanks for any insight.
Kent and Iris
Kristy
SM 243
Need everyone's help

CW Bill Rouse
 

Please read this, but it is not necessary to respond.

We have a small problem that can be a big problem if you happen to be cruising the world and have limited bandwidth. 

Some of our members are cruising the world with limited bandwidth and choose the "digest version" to receive all postings. The digest version allows them to browse the SUBJECT/TOPIC of postings, then download that posting of interest.

We all are guilty (me too) of not respecting the SUBJECT/TOPIC and posting a question or answer that has nothing to do with the actual SUBJECT/TOPIC. The Moderators and I have the tools to SPLIT the SUBJECT/TOPIC, but we are not paying attention (me included).

I am asking everyone to please help those that are at distant places in the world with low bandwidths...a place that I wish I was NOW! Please respect the SUBJECT/TOPIC. if you read a posting and it reminds you to ask about something different, simply compose a new email from your registered email address To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io with the appropriate SUBJECT/TOPIC...it is that easy. And, Moderators, help me with this one.

--
 
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970
Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Thomas Kleman
 

Hey neighbor- before replacing it I would take the heating element out,  clean the contact points and check the wiring connections  (assume it's a Basic 40, so pretty easy). You'll see immediately if it can be saved. Mine had a similar symptom. 

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422 L'ORIENT
Ko Olina Marina Oahu
Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

CW Bill Rouse
 

Steve,

I have not experienced that, but wouldn't corrosion on the thermostat contacts result in something similar. I would check the thermostat.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 10:33 PM Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> wrote:

The hot water heater on my SM is working normally except for one detail. Normally, when the heater is heating water it draws a little over 3 amps AC. When the water is hot, it usually draws 0 amps until it goes into a heating cycle again. Now, it seems to always have a background power draw of about .75 amps. What I’m wondering is if this means the heating element is partly degraded, but not to the point of popping the breaker yet. 

Have any of you experienced this symptom, and should I just changed the element now, or could there be a different problem. I’d much prefer to change the element now than enroute to Alaska in a few weeks, but don’t want to do it at all if that is not the problem. Any thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated. 


Aloha,
Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72
Ko Olina, Hawaii
Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Randall Walker
 

Hello Mohammad and Aty,

Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched
Unbolt the furler from the foil, I used the uphaul to raise the foil enough to clear furler. Remove 2 bolts that hold furler to the mast.
Then you will need a sturdy vice and a form of wrap to protect the aluminium casing from the vice teeth.

First loosen the bottom, counter clockwise. Just a turn or two.
Then remove the cranking shaft, (keeping the cracking shaft in the furler, while loosening in the bottom, just helps hold the furler while loosening the bottom.)
Then finish removing the bottom. Caution first set of bearings are under the bottom cap.

The tool I showed was a square metal bar with two holes. The holes are the same spacing as the furler holes. The drill bits are the same size and simply use the bottom of the drill bits through the bar, and that will give you the ability to undo the end cap counter clockwise, and still have the two drill bits for future use.

All that was required was to clean everything inside? Were you able to reuse the bearing?
The bearings are dry, the same as in your travelers. I simply cleaned them and put them back in, no grease. They were very coated in salt, but not damaged.
The main issue was the Delrin/plastic inserts for the crank. After very carefully removing the Delrin, I cleaned and as I recall used some lithium grease on the gear shaft.
If I had to guess, the grease may not have been needed. 


Any other parts or lubrications needed?
If the mizzen is only stiff this can be done in a short time. I have attached the problem area picture and one from Bill Rouse showing the Delrin. I believe this is from his book, showing the Delrin pieces, there are two.
Also the holes in my furlers bottom did go straight through to give drainage as you can see in the teardown picture.
The hole project should only be time and some white grease.
Reassembly had only one puzzle ring moment! When you go to put the upper bearings in, push the internal mechanism in to a point you can just fit the upper bearings in then the rest will be easy.

Hope that helps,
Randall

On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 10:46 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Randall;

 

Although our “temporary” fix of spraying CorrosionX in the furler has lasted over 4 years and the furler is still very smooth, it has been on our list to service the unit, once we figure out how to get into it. I have a few questions that I would appreciate your response on:

 

  1. Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched?
  2. All that was required was to clean everything inside?
  3. Were you able to reuse the bearing?
  4. Any other parts or lubrications needed?

 

Thanks for providing this very useful information and sharing your experience.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:41 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

 

Thomas,

I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 

I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s

They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.

Cheers.

 

Randall

A54 #56

Gibraltar

 

 

 

On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:

Hi all,

 

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 

So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 

It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

 

Thanks for your input

 

Best, 

 

 

Thomas

GARULFO 

A54-122

Tahuata, French Polynesia 

 

 
Re: sonic speed on SM 2000

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Marco,


Transducers will be filled with moisture over time, especially without the rubber cap.
You can measure the resistance: disconnect the transducer from the Sonic Speed box.
It should be 110 kilo ohm +-1% between red and black, infinite ohms to the screen.

Did the exchange job 2 months ago.
*. Aft transducer on the keel        :   translucent hose in the locker near the washing machine/freezer
* Forward transducer on the hull :   grey pipe under the seat near the bathroom bulkhead
See the 2 pictures:

Procedure:
Detach ALL tie-wraps from the black transducer cables in the pipes to the Sonic Speed control box in the small cupboard
* firmly solder long extension cables to the old transducer cable ends
* drill holes in the center of the old transducers, fit self tapping screw
* pull the screw while someone inside the boat feeds the extended cable into the pipe
* important: leave the extended part of the cable in the pipe because you will use it to pull the new sensor in!
* clean and lubricate the pipe end where the transducer sits in the hull e.g. silicone grease.
* solder a new sensor to the extension cable and pull the new sensor in while someone at the other end of the pipe gently pulls the cables in.

I did the last point with the boat in the water as both pipes end  well above the waterline.

My transducers are B&G part number 184-00-076/FI.

Good luck, this is less daunting than it looks....


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen SM2k  #348 @Monastir
Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Stephen Davis
 

The hot water heater on my SM is working normally except for one detail. Normally, when the heater is heating water it draws a little over 3 amps AC. When the water is hot, it usually draws 0 amps until it goes into a heating cycle again. Now, it seems to always have a background power draw of about .75 amps. What I’m wondering is if this means the heating element is partly degraded, but not to the point of popping the breaker yet. 

Have any of you experienced this symptom, and should I just changed the element now, or could there be a different problem. I’d much prefer to change the element now than enroute to Alaska in a few weeks, but don’t want to do it at all if that is not the problem. Any thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated. 


Aloha,
Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72
Ko Olina, Hawaii
Re: Replacement of carpets in SM

Mark Erdos
 

Alexander,

 

Sorry I cannot help with a dealer in France but I do have a little bit of insight for your project.

 

About 4 years ago we replaced all the carpeting in Cream Puff for under US$500.00. We were fortunate to find a marine carpet dealer near the boat and made a side trip one day to visit their store. We took samples from them and opted for a grayish/brown berber marine quality carpet.

 

The marine quality is very similar to outdoor carpet as it has a backing. The soft rubber backing is perfect for a boat. It is sticky enough to stay in place and not slide. It is not too sticky that you cannot remove it to access panels in the floor. Our carpet was made by Shaw and had a NuWave back.

 

We ordered a 10’ long piece of 12’ wide carpet. This was ample to replace all the carpet and make some door mats.

 

This is where we purchased ours: https://marinecarpeting.com/

 

 

PORT OF CALL by Shaw - Berber Carpet w/ NuWave Backing - 12' Wide x Various Lengths

Colors

Dunes

Lengths and Pricing

12' x 10'

BERBNUWAVE

1

$365.00

Subtotal

$365.00

 

Our price included delivery to the dock.

 

Check hardware store new you for outdoor carpeting. If you buy from a “marine” supplier, it’ll cost a lot more. You can buy a small piece at first and see how it works. It will need to have a non-slip backing so you can walk on it when underway without it sliding.

 

For the binding rather than send it out to a place with a machine, we found adhesive carpet binding and did it ourselves. We used the old carpet for templates, cut the new carpet with a pair of large workshop scissors and then cut and applied the binding. The entire project took a day to complete.

 

To do all the carpets you will need 100’ of binding. Here is the binding we used:

 

Item

Sku

Qty

Subtotal

Instabind Regular Binding, Per Linear Ft

Color

100 x Grey 39422

IB-RB-XX

100

$125.00

Subtotal

$125.00

Shipping & Handling

$11.35

Grand Total

$136.35

 

Here is a link to the store where we purchased it: https://www.tools4flooring.com/instabind-regular-binding-per-linear-ft-p-948.html

The link above has a video about how to install the adhesive binding. It is pretty easy to do. It takes two people (for the glue gun bit)

 

Our new carpet has held up really well and we can remover carpet when needed to wash it gently with our power washer. I have attach a couple of pictures.

 

Hope this helps and good luck with your project.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alexander Schenk via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 8:19 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Replacement of carpets in SM

 

Hello,

 

We are looking at replacing our carpets (al cleaning efforts did not pay out) and would like to know if anybody has any good tips on this. Preferably a supplier in Northern France, as our boat is currently located in Roscoff, Britany.

 

Best

Alexander Schenk

SM #231 - Antinea

,_
Re: European SM 240V looking to plug in 240V US Marina

Craig Briggs
 

and, of course, do note that you will be getting US 60 Hz, not European 50 Hz.
Re: Bulkhead Thickness & Screw length

Richie Whyte
 

Hi All
@brent
Thank you for your welcome. I will take a look at the registry. Thanks for that.
 
@Eric
I think I will check again with the registrar and see if they are open to the location suggested by Trevor as it seems to have got past the authorities in Ireland once already.
 
@ryan
Thank for for saving me from the error of my assumption. A picture does save a thousand words. I have only been on the boat once and clearly hadn't paid enough attention to that area.
 
@trevor
You better believe its complex...I am nearly a year at it at this stage. I have been told by the registrar if i get the plate and the new decals in place and photographed they will accept the photos as proof of carving & marking and issue the registration certificate. Your suggested location sounds good to me - entirely out of the way. I will take up you offer and email you directly if you dont mind.

Thank you all for your generous replies.


Richie 
 
Why Knot
SM2K#261
Re: European SM 240V looking to plug in 240V US Marina

eric freedman
 

I forgot to mention that you should mount a circuit breaker . I believe it is 30 or 35 amps where the cord enters the boat in the stern locker. It should be the same amperage as the breaker on the side of the 220 volt panel. (I’m not on the boat)

The only problem with just plugging into a 50 amp outlet is that you need more than 50 amps to shut off the power.

If there is a short somewhere in the shore power it might make a fire.

The galvanic isolator can then be mounted in the Amel’s green /yellow wire.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 7:30 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] European SM 240V looking to plug in 240V US Marina

 

Hello Dominique,

I believe you have the wrong plug as you do not have a ground..

You want a 50 amp twist lock plug. It has 4 connections for USA boats. For European boats you use only 3 of the 4 connections.

The green/yellow from the boat goes to the green in the plug.

The blue from the boat goes to the black in the plug .

The brown from the boat goes to the red in the plug. .

The white neutral, is not used.

 

The neutral wire is used on USA boats to get 110 volts between the black or the red.-this is not used.

 

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dominique Guenot
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 6:28 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] European SM 240V looking to plug in 240V US Marina

 

Hello, 

My understanding: 

sv Viva #374 is wired for Europe 240V with 3 prongs; Phase (hot), Neutral, Ground

Ala Wai Marina in Hawaii does have 240V with 3 prongs, 2 Phases (hot)  and  Neutral. No ground, plug protected by a breaker at the Marina socket..
110V is coming between one phase and neutral. Then 240V is coming from the 2 phases.

I bought a socket NEMA L6-30P wich is fitting the Marina socket.   

My questions are:
 
1-How do I wire this NEMA L6-30P socket to replace the European Socket?

I foresee 2 mutually exclusive options: 
11- wire one US phase in the European Neutral
12-combine the 2 US phases in the European Phase 
Both options seems wrong ... 

2-Do I have to install a 30A "galvanic isolator" - as I have seen in previous threads - if the Marina socket is protected by a breaker?  

Any advice and tip will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks 
Dominique Guenot
+1 917 826 0945
sv Viva #374


 

Re: European SM 240V looking to plug in 240V US Marina

eric freedman
 

Hello Dominique,

I believe you have the wrong plug as you do not have a ground..

You want a 50 amp twist lock plug. It has 4 connections for USA boats. For European boats you use only 3 of the 4 connections.

The green/yellow from the boat goes to the green in the plug.

The blue from the boat goes to the black in the plug .

The brown from the boat goes to the red in the plug. .

The white neutral, is not used.

 

The neutral wire is used on USA boats to get 110 volts between the black or the red.-this is not used.

 

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dominique Guenot
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 6:28 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] European SM 240V looking to plug in 240V US Marina

 

Hello, 

My understanding: 

sv Viva #374 is wired for Europe 240V with 3 prongs; Phase (hot), Neutral, Ground

Ala Wai Marina in Hawaii does have 240V with 3 prongs, 2 Phases (hot)  and  Neutral. No ground, plug protected by a breaker at the Marina socket..
110V is coming between one phase and neutral. Then 240V is coming from the 2 phases.

I bought a socket NEMA L6-30P wich is fitting the Marina socket.   

My questions are:
 
1-How do I wire this NEMA L6-30P socket to replace the European Socket?

I foresee 2 mutually exclusive options: 
11- wire one US phase in the European Neutral
12-combine the 2 US phases in the European Phase 
Both options seems wrong ... 

2-Do I have to install a 30A "galvanic isolator" - as I have seen in previous threads - if the Marina socket is protected by a breaker?  

Any advice and tip will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks 
Dominique Guenot
+1 917 826 0945
sv Viva #374


 

European SM 240V looking to plug in 240V US Marina

Dominique Guenot
 

Hello, 

My understanding: 

sv Viva #374 is wired for Europe 240V with 3 prongs; Phase (hot), Neutral, Ground

Ala Wai Marina in Hawaii does have 240V with 3 prongs, 2 Phases (hot)  and  Neutral. No ground, plug protected by a breaker at the Marina socket..
110V is coming between one phase and neutral. Then 240V is coming from the 2 phases.

I bought a socket NEMA L6-30P wich is fitting the Marina socket.   

My questions are:
 
1-How do I wire this NEMA L6-30P socket to replace the European Socket?

I foresee 2 mutually exclusive options: 
11- wire one US phase in the European Neutral
12-combine the 2 US phases in the European Phase 
Both options seems wrong ... 

2-Do I have to install a 30A "galvanic isolator" - as I have seen in previous threads - if the Marina socket is protected by a breaker?  

Any advice and tip will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks 
Dominique Guenot
+1 917 826 0945
sv Viva #374


 
Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Randall;

 

Although our “temporary” fix of spraying CorrosionX in the furler has lasted over 4 years and the furler is still very smooth, it has been on our list to service the unit, once we figure out how to get into it. I have a few questions that I would appreciate your response on:

 

  1. Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched?
  2. All that was required was to clean everything inside?
  3. Were you able to reuse the bearing?
  4. Any other parts or lubrications needed?

 

Thanks for providing this very useful information and sharing your experience.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:41 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

 

Thomas,

I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 

I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s

They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.

Cheers.

 

Randall

A54 #56

Gibraltar

 

 

 

On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:

Hi all,

 

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 

So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 

It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

 

Thanks for your input

 

Best, 

 

 

Thomas

GARULFO 

A54-122

Tahuata, French Polynesia 

 

 
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Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Randall Walker
 

Thomas,
I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 
I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s
They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.
Cheers.
 
Randall
A54 #56
Gibraltar



On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Hi all,

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 
So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 
It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

Thanks for your input

Best, 


Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahuata, French Polynesia 
Re: sonic speed on SM 2000

Giovanni TESTA
 

Ciao Marco, stesso problema con diversa soluzione. Scrivimi direttamente.
BV
Giovanni Testa
Sv Eutikia SM 2k 428

Il Gio 14 Mag 2020, 21:34 Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> ha scritto:
Dear Arno, Paul , Oliver, Mohamed,  Bill 
thanks for your suggestions that are very help-full to me.  Indeed as you may  understand our SM  Desiree is quite 20 years old  and her  electronic has the same age  also if we have always maintained it substituting  time by time the broken  components of the system. 
In any case  the Hydra 2000 cpu  at present is the main cpu that acquires data from the different sensors among which there is also the sonic speed one and all is perfectly functioning except the speed.  If it will be possible I think that the substitution of the sonic speed sensor  is at present the best solution because it is  compatibility with the Hydra 2000  CPU . The use of different more advanced and updated sensors does not ensure this compatibility due the interaction with the old system.  I am also far from the boat ( Milan)  and the boat is in Naples. 
This attached  picture shows what you can see on the keel i.e. the the hole of the aft sensor or more precisely the hole that presumably were occupied by the head of the sensor that we lost.  
What is unclear to me is if the hole in the keel was only occupied  by a neoprene cap or what we have lost is a sensible part of the sensor. In  this second case  will be necessary  to replace the sensor otherwise we can try to add a  neoprene cap and try to set the gain on the sensor cpu. 
Do you have some suggestions and  ideas about ? 
again thanks 
cheers 
marco 


Il giorno 13 mag 2020, alle ore 12:12, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> ha scritto:

Hi Marco,

The Ebay link and the Maxmarineshop link are actually one and the same vendor.

The partnumber seems to match the partnumber referred to in the installation manual of B&G, assuming Amel used the straight version. They came in the original B&G box carrying that number.

I have not examined the way the are mounted in detail as mine are still working. But they must be mounted from the underside I would say. There is a tube inside the hull leading all the way into the bilge. 

I’m guessing the sensor is pushed in the hole bedded in Sikaflex. So I’m sure it will be a pig to remove once the time comes. I guess the best way is by drilling a hole in the face of the sensor and putting in a large screw to get some leverage to pull it out. Remember to tie a piece of string to the other end to feed in the new sensor once the old one is out. 

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
6441 - 6460 of 58503