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Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Herbert Lackner
 

Woody,

having the Amel shaft alternator you should make the "alignment tool" longer as you have to take away the shaft alternator pulley for doing the alignment. It works if you have the tool according to the spec that you find in the forum, but if I would do it again I would add the width of the pulley to the length of the tool, would make the alignment much easier.  the process for the alignment itself is easy, in the water or on the hard, and you find all relevant information in the forum.

I had problems to get the vetus coupling of the drive-shaft, but with a hammer, a big puller and a lot of time it worked.

herbert, SN120
Re: Boat insurance Martinique

marty hameline
 

Hi Miles,
(et al Sailors de Martinique)

I land in Fort de France tomorrow at 15:30 and will be in Le Marin until the 22nd.  Hope we can connect as I appreciate local sailor knowledge.
My email is marafiki37@...
Cell is US 818-331-8999

Cheers,

Martin Hameline
Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Porter McRoberts
 

A quick question to all:
We also need to unmount our new Volvo to replace a seal on the c-drive.  

My question: Boat is currently out of the water and would be easy to do.  Should re-allignment of the motor occur in water? Or since we have a rail, is it ok to do on land? I had been told previously that with most sailboats motors must be aligned only in the water secondary to hull flex.  Is that also the case with our 54?  It seems to be very stiff, and then there the engine rail mount system.

Many thanks, 

Porter McRoberts 
A54-152 IBIS


On Feb 7, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Alan Woody Wood <woody@...> wrote:

Hi All

I've got a few jobs that require decoupling the Vetus from the engine block:

  • Changing engine mounts
  • Changing the Vetus rubber coupling parts
  • Replacing an oil seal/gasket on the flywheel bell housing (it's very leaky!). 

I've trawled the threads and got a fair idea of what to do for the most part (I think!), so thanks to all who contributed, but still have a few questions:

  • What engine mounts are used on SM 97's with a TMD 22 engine - there seems to be plenty of discussion on the subject but no definitive answer?
  • How exactly does the alignment tool (designed by Eric Freedman I think) work in practice? 
  • There is a bit of discussion about 'the trick' to avoid cutting the heads off the coupling bolts - how does this work in practice? 
Anything else you think I should consider while it's all apart? I have the added complication of a prop alternator fitted to the shaft by the way :/

Thanks in advance!

Woody
SM'97

<Vetus decoupling.jpg>
Re: rub rail insert

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Pat,

When we had our hull painted in Trinidad in 2016, it took 2 guys half an hour to remove both sides, and about an hour to re-install the old one after I had cleaned it up. I suspect the yard is bidding high because they don’t realize how easy the job is. 


You will love the look of the paint when it’s done, and ours has held up well. We did the boot stripe in awlgrip desert sand, and in the 2 stripe style of a newer 54...It looks really nice. 


Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72...On the hard in Hawaii
Steering racks for SN, SM & 54

CW Bill Rouse
 

This is to notify you that SAV"at"Amel.fr will have the steering racks available to ship in a few weeks. I understand that they have them, and are currently testing the installation.

I would like to point out to everyone that this is really admirable on the part of Amel. When I contacted the US branch of the company that originally made these racks, there was not any desire on their part to make these discontinued racks available. I am not sure if Amel convinced them, or found someone else to make the racks, but in either case, Amel used their expertise and leverage to support owners with a discontinued manufacturer's part that Amel has not used since the last 54 was produced. Among boat builders, I believe this is remarkable. I know that Maud and Thierry were very supportive of all of us.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
cloudHQPowered by
cloudHQ
Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Alan "Woody" Wood
 

Hi All

I've got a few jobs that require decoupling the Vetus from the engine block:

  • Changing engine mounts
  • Changing the Vetus rubber coupling parts
  • Replacing an oil seal/gasket on the flywheel bell housing (it's very leaky!). 

I've trawled the threads and got a fair idea of what to do for the most part (I think!), so thanks to all who contributed, but still have a few questions:

  • What engine mounts are used on SM 97's with a TMD 22 engine - there seems to be plenty of discussion on the subject but no definitive answer?
  • How exactly does the alignment tool (designed by Eric Freedman I think) work in practice? 
  • There is a bit of discussion about 'the trick' to avoid cutting the heads off the coupling bolts - how does this work in practice? 
Anything else you think I should consider while it's all apart? I have the added complication of a prop alternator fitted to the shaft by the way :/

Thanks in advance!

Woody
SM'97
Re: rub rail insert

Patrick McAneny
 

Craig, I thought I was being very generous with my estimate of time to remove and replace the insert. I really thought it should only take minutes to take out and maybe a two hours or so to replace. so maybe $400. for labor would be more reasonable ,than $1,600 , They quoted $1000. for the insert ,which is higher than the cost ,about $900. ,but fine ,they have a right to make a profit. 
Thanks for your input,
Pat
SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Feb 7, 2020 7:56 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert

Hi Pat,
I've removed and replaced mine (after gelcoat touchup) maybe 4 or 5 times. It takes about 5 minutes to take them out and maybe 45 minutes to put them back.  Another hour to scrub and rinse before replacing.
Cheers, Craig

Re: rub rail insert

Patrick McAneny
 

Mike, It was Haven Harbor that gave me the rather high quote. It is a quote that will go to my insurance company and I am reluctant to send it to them, as I think it is too high and may lead them to reject the entire estimate. That is why I am trying to determine a reasonable charge for labor ,before I contact Haven Harbor to see about having the quote adjusted down. Did you have your boat painted with Awlgrip or Awlcraft ? Did they do a good job ? Worton Creek wants to take the masts off ,to put her in  a shed for repairs and paint ,probably the correct way to do it ,although more expensive and hassle. Should get their estimate today, I would like to know if you guys were happy with H.H. work. You may know Georgetown went belly up and was auctioned off Jan.14th., could not have happen to a more deserving family .  They tried to keep/steal my $10,000 deposit ,and had not touched my boat ,I got it back a week later after going to the police and then the prosecutors and having them charged with felony fraud .I reluctantly dropped the charges after getting my money back. Georgetown is now owned by Safe Harbors ,a large outfit ,that is buying up marinas , about seven on the Bay and 80 total now ,with plans to own around 200 in the next few years. 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Feb 7, 2020 5:58 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert

Hi Pat, 
Haven Harbor pulled out the gutter to paint the rub rail and then re-inserted the old one. It was part of the overall job and not a broken out line item. I don’t think it was a significant element of their work labor wise. Like so many projects on a boat when you ask somebody to quote the labor they’re going to need to figure high.
Mike
Aletes SM 240

On Feb 7, 2020, at 5:41 AM, Rink De Haan <rinkdehaan@...> wrote:


Hi Patric and Jarek

I am also in the process of changing my rub rail insert. 
I got mine from Amel and got a profile drawing from Maud to check the type of insert (see picture). 
<IMG_5994.jpg>
The yard in Greece is currently removing the old one. I can tell the price after a few days. 
I’ll insert the new one after the rub rail is polished. That will be in April. 

Hope this helps
Regards 
Rink
SY Razor’s Edge
2001 Amel SM2K #330 

Op vr 7 feb. 2020 om 10:44 schreef Jarek Zemlo via Groups.Io <noa_blue=protonmail.com@groups.io>
Hello Patric,

I am intending to do the same but can not get the new insert. Contacted AMEL but they replied that they do not have the new for my SM 1997. Where did you get yours if I may ask? 

I am in Belgium at present reciting my boat and $ 1.600 sounds very high. I guess here I can do this operation fo 50% less if not lower. 

AMEL quoted EUR 25,95 per running metre for the new insert but they are not sure if this is the correct profile for my SM 1997.

Cheers
--
Jarek Zemlo
NOA BLUE

Re: rub rail insert

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Pat,
I've removed and replaced mine (after gelcoat touchup) maybe 4 or 5 times. It takes about 5 minutes to take them out and maybe 45 minutes to put them back.  Another hour to scrub and rinse before replacing.
Cheers, Craig
Re: rub rail insert

Patrick McAneny
 

Jarek, Maud gave me the quote on the price ,but did not mention it's availability. I assumed they had it in stock.
Pat
SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: Jarek Zemlo via Groups.Io <noa_blue@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Feb 7, 2020 4:44 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert

Hello Patric,

I am intending to do the same but can not get the new insert. Contacted AMEL but they replied that they do not have the new for my SM 1997. Where did you get yours if I may ask? 

I am in Belgium at present reciting my boat and $ 1.600 sounds very high. I guess here I can do this operation fo 50% less if not lower. 

AMEL quoted EUR 25,95 per running metre for the new insert but they are not sure if this is the correct profile for my SM 1997.

Cheers
--
Jarek Zemlo
NOA BLUE

Re: rub rail insert

Mike Ondra
 

Hi Pat, 
Haven Harbor pulled out the gutter to paint the rub rail and then re-inserted the old one. It was part of the overall job and not a broken out line item. I don’t think it was a significant element of their work labor wise. Like so many projects on a boat when you ask somebody to quote the labor they’re going to need to figure high.
Mike
Aletes SM 240

On Feb 7, 2020, at 5:41 AM, Rink De Haan <rinkdehaan@...> wrote:


Hi Patric and Jarek

I am also in the process of changing my rub rail insert. 
I got mine from Amel and got a profile drawing from Maud to check the type of insert (see picture). 
<IMG_5994.jpg>
The yard in Greece is currently removing the old one. I can tell the price after a few days. 
I’ll insert the new one after the rub rail is polished. That will be in April. 

Hope this helps
Regards 
Rink
SY Razor’s Edge
2001 Amel SM2K #330 

Op vr 7 feb. 2020 om 10:44 schreef Jarek Zemlo via Groups.Io <noa_blue=protonmail.com@groups.io>
Hello Patric,

I am intending to do the same but can not get the new insert. Contacted AMEL but they replied that they do not have the new for my SM 1997. Where did you get yours if I may ask? 

I am in Belgium at present reciting my boat and $ 1.600 sounds very high. I guess here I can do this operation fo 50% less if not lower. 

AMEL quoted EUR 25,95 per running metre for the new insert but they are not sure if this is the correct profile for my SM 1997.

Cheers
--
Jarek Zemlo
NOA BLUE

Re: rub rail insert

Rink De Haan
 

Hi Patric and Jarek

I am also in the process of changing my rub rail insert. 
I got mine from Amel and got a profile drawing from Maud to check the type of insert (see picture). 
The yard in Greece is currently removing the old one. I can tell the price after a few days. 
I’ll insert the new one after the rub rail is polished. That will be in April. 

Hope this helps
Regards 
Rink
SY Razor’s Edge
2001 Amel SM2K #330 

Op vr 7 feb. 2020 om 10:44 schreef Jarek Zemlo via Groups.Io <noa_blue=protonmail.com@groups.io>

Hello Patric,

I am intending to do the same but can not get the new insert. Contacted AMEL but they replied that they do not have the new for my SM 1997. Where did you get yours if I may ask? 

I am in Belgium at present reciting my boat and $ 1.600 sounds very high. I guess here I can do this operation fo 50% less if not lower. 

AMEL quoted EUR 25,95 per running metre for the new insert but they are not sure if this is the correct profile for my SM 1997.

Cheers
--
Jarek Zemlo
NOA BLUE

Re: rub rail insert

Jarek Zemlo
 

Hello Patric,

I am intending to do the same but can not get the new insert. Contacted AMEL but they replied that they do not have the new for my SM 1997. Where did you get yours if I may ask? 

I am in Belgium at present reciting my boat and $ 1.600 sounds very high. I guess here I can do this operation fo 50% less if not lower. 

AMEL quoted EUR 25,95 per running metre for the new insert but they are not sure if this is the correct profile for my SM 1997.

Cheers
--
Jarek Zemlo
NOA BLUE

Re: AM54 inverter 24/220 volts

Ulrich Michael Dangelmeyer
 

Dear all, THX so much,
I really appreciate all your investigation and recommendation. thats all true. The previous owner obviously didn´t ordered this regular inverter from Amel.
Until today I also can´t find any special inverter switch on the Gen panel, also nothing in engine room close to the chargers. As 2 years ago our 100A Mastervolt charger died,I made the mistake not to order an Mastervolt Mass Combi Charger/Inverter. sh... happens. 
The both small blue Victrons under the chart table I recognized already, just for mobil charging and onboard computers and TV set...Too slim for regular housekeeping devices, so we use a watercooker to boil our daily amount of hot water for coffee and tea. Then we keep it hot until next day in a Thermos jar.
Now if we are all together let me ask an other issue: our Corian worktop beside the sinks got a crack about 15 cm. Is there any possibility to repair or filling up with identical material without need to exchange the complete worktop? Corian is an artificial composite material, so should be able to repair from surface down?
Any suggestions and ideas are very warm welcome. THX!

Ulrich
"Soleil Bleu" /AM54/#88 
Re: Selling an Amel Mango

Mark Barter
 

Another shout for Michel Charpentier. He is the best broker I have ever dealt with and a great guy too.
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110
Re: Selling an Amel Mango

Davi Rozgonyi
 

I second the advice of finding Michel Charpentier... He found us Wake (SM#56) here in the Med. Amel is all he does as far as I know. Very simple, very very trustworthy. You can shake his hand and count on it being a done deal. 
Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

Matt Salatino
 

Do you mean brushless, or stepper motor? Two different animals, though both are brushless.....

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 6, 2020, at 10:53 PM, Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@...> wrote:

Hello,

I will answer tomorrow more in detail bcs its late now. 

So far just a word in advance to prevent from guessing too much.

1. A brushless motor as we use it is in no way a motor where you just hook up some power and it starts turning. 
These motors need a precise timing on their coils there fore they are:
-Highly efficient
-light weight
-very powerfull
-rpm controllable
-no wear parts exept ballbearings
-ignitionproof

2. They are controlled by micro computers. The microcomputer connects to the AMEL hardware. 
There are no rellays involved. Relays are inefficient. 
I can provide a design note, its manly only 3 component groups, but it will not help anybody because the involved software is the key. 


3. Yes, I am willing to set up a pump system that is simple to install and replaces the old pump. I imagine it will be just a modern replacement to get rid of the problems.

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Martinique 


On Thu, Feb 6, 2020, 09:44 Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Oliver,

Thanks for responding. I think you have the best solution we have heard of - we will all be very grateful if we can solve this annoying problem. A few questions for you:

1) Will you be willing to sell me this "more simple adapter"? You're obviously far more versed in electrical engineering than I am. I currently have the setup with 1 fridge and 2 fridge/freezers which each have a Frigoboat W50F compressor. The 1 fridge has a built in thermostat and the 2 fridge/freezers have this thermostat: https://penguinfrigo.co.uk/product/frigomatic-twin-thermostat-for-fridge-or-freezer/.    Those are fed to the E51385 Box. 

2) My system uses fresh water to cool the fridges. I assume I can put a temp sensor in the freshwater return? The additional complication not necessary for me, but if you think it drastically improves efficiency, I'm willing to do it.

3) Also, given my basic setup, is there a way to coordinate the compressor run times without adding the MCU? I believe I could reduce pump duty cycle if the fridges/freezers would try to run at the same time. Again, if it's too complicated, I don't need it.

4) Is there a 12v pump available? I would rather use the 12v output of the E51385 than put in another relay.

I would assume if I use a 24v motor, the way to get 24v would be to use the E51385 output to control a Hella relay, which would then pass through 24v that I get from the posts near the chain wash pump. Since I'm at 80%+ duty cycle, I would rather not have a relay that is energized all the time for heat, longevity and energy consumption reasons.

Your solution is the best we've seen and I'm sure many of us will want to copy it. I'm hoping it is something that can be installed and managed by someone without your technical skills.

Thanks in advance

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Plastic part holding most spotlights &

Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond
 

Hi Nick

How did you get on repairing/replacing the broken plastic inner parts holding the broken wall lights?  We also have this problem and are keen to try and get them repaired.

Regards

Ross and Donna
SM2K #356
INTREPID KIWI


On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 at 21:43, Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond via Groups.Io
<southernadventurer@...> wrote:
I’m keen to know how you got on as I too need some replacements.

Regards

Ross and Donna
SM2K #356
INTREPID KIWI


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Saturday, November 2, 2019, 8:59 PM, Nicolas Klene via Groups.Io <laixoi@...> wrote:

Hi everybody

I have several of this plastic parts holing the spotlight and lamps on board broken .
i contacted the Italian manufacturer (Cantalupi lighting S.R.L) to no avail,they do not stock it anymore .
anybody has an ersatz, or shall I try 3D printing ?
thanks 
Nick
s/v DarNico-Sm2K #471

Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello,

I will answer tomorrow more in detail bcs its late now. 

So far just a word in advance to prevent from guessing too much.

1. A brushless motor as we use it is in no way a motor where you just hook up some power and it starts turning. 
These motors need a precise timing on their coils there fore they are:
-Highly efficient
-light weight
-very powerfull
-rpm controllable
-no wear parts exept ballbearings
-ignitionproof

2. They are controlled by micro computers. The microcomputer connects to the AMEL hardware. 
There are no rellays involved. Relays are inefficient. 
I can provide a design note, its manly only 3 component groups, but it will not help anybody because the involved software is the key. 


3. Yes, I am willing to set up a pump system that is simple to install and replaces the old pump. I imagine it will be just a modern replacement to get rid of the problems.

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Martinique 


On Thu, Feb 6, 2020, 09:44 Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Oliver,

Thanks for responding. I think you have the best solution we have heard of - we will all be very grateful if we can solve this annoying problem. A few questions for you:

1) Will you be willing to sell me this "more simple adapter"? You're obviously far more versed in electrical engineering than I am. I currently have the setup with 1 fridge and 2 fridge/freezers which each have a Frigoboat W50F compressor. The 1 fridge has a built in thermostat and the 2 fridge/freezers have this thermostat: https://penguinfrigo.co.uk/product/frigomatic-twin-thermostat-for-fridge-or-freezer/.    Those are fed to the E51385 Box. 

2) My system uses fresh water to cool the fridges. I assume I can put a temp sensor in the freshwater return? The additional complication not necessary for me, but if you think it drastically improves efficiency, I'm willing to do it.

3) Also, given my basic setup, is there a way to coordinate the compressor run times without adding the MCU? I believe I could reduce pump duty cycle if the fridges/freezers would try to run at the same time. Again, if it's too complicated, I don't need it.

4) Is there a 12v pump available? I would rather use the 12v output of the E51385 than put in another relay.

I would assume if I use a 24v motor, the way to get 24v would be to use the E51385 output to control a Hella relay, which would then pass through 24v that I get from the posts near the chain wash pump. Since I'm at 80%+ duty cycle, I would rather not have a relay that is energized all the time for heat, longevity and energy consumption reasons.

Your solution is the best we've seen and I'm sure many of us will want to copy it. I'm hoping it is something that can be installed and managed by someone without your technical skills.

Thanks in advance

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Bill,

Being the thread OP, i agree it’s getting a bit too long and confusing. 

We can agree that there isn’t yet a final, definitive answer to the original question about the best way to address the longevity issues of the A54 fridge circulation pump.

Ideally, Oliver would write up and share a document that interested owners (including myself) can review, extend and finalise for laymen to potentially implement his solution.

Ideally, Oliver would also gather data about performances of his setup in tropical waters, much warmer than Portugal’s, to ensure the improvement still exists and may therefore help most of the ‘disappointed’ users.

Best regards,


Thomas & Soraya,
GARULFO 
A54-122
Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia 







On Thu, 6 Feb 2020 at 08:34, Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill. I agree with you completely, as I am one of the 2 whom I believe have ordered the parts Oliver noted.

I remain a bit confused myself, but I do intend to do my own homework and see if I can make his ideas work for me. In the event I am successful, I will report exactly what I did for others to consider. I would do so in a new thread, so as not to continue this one.

I hope that is acceptable to everyone out there.

Over and out for now.
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom A54 #44

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