Date   
Re: Dyneema loop

Wolfgang Weber
 

Thank you very much Wolfgang Weber SY Elise 
Great Video, I will try it

Re: Dyneema loop

Annsofie & Jonas Svanberg
 

Cheaper to make them your self. Super easy task.

https://youtu.be/j5CZzAo0IxE

Hälsningar/Regards/Cumprementos
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998


Skickat från min iPhone

24 juli 2019 kl. 09:38 skrev Wolfgang Weber via Groups.Io <webercardio@...>:

Hello to the group,
I would like to renew the dyneema loops of the rigg.Before order at Amel, I would ask for any recommendations.
Our Amel is from 2011 , 20.000 sm.
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162 (Annapolis) back on boat 2nd of August

Dyneema loop

Wolfgang Weber
 

Hello to the group,
I would like to renew the dyneema loops of the rigg.Before order at Amel, I would ask for any recommendations.
Our Amel is from 2011 , 20.000 sm.
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162 (Annapolis) back on boat 2nd of August

Re: Storm tactics

James Alton
 

Mike,

    One thing that might be helpful is to know that if the wind is too strong to motor directly upwind that you can still make progress to windward without stressing your engine.  You can do this without using any sails by tacking or if you cannot easily bring the bow through the wind by jibing your way to windward.  Set your engine to a comfortable power level and then find an angle to the wind where your boat speed is high enough for the keel to effeciently generate lift and you will have almost no leeway.  I once had to use this technique in winds of 50 plus knots on a non Amel boat I owned previously to gain distance to windward to enter an inlet during a crazy strong Northeaster.  There was not nearly enough power available to bring the bow through but jibing was easy and despite some big seas we gained the distance to windward that we needed to safely enter the inlet.

Best,
James
SV Sueno
Mara u #220



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io" <ngtnewington@...>
Date: 7/24/19 7:14 AM (GMT+01:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Storm tactics

Mike,
Heave to under small amount of mizzen or main and scrap of jib backwinded. Lash helm such that the boat sits at about 50 degrees from the wind. She should for-reach at about 2-5 knots.
Then have a cup of tea, relax and assess. You will be amazed at how comfy this is. You should practice the tactic in 25 kn.
I have used this tactic in many situations on various boats. On one occasion for 48 hours on passage to New Zealand from Tonga in 1991.
I also use it when I want to slow down for a day light entry and sometimes if it is rough to just make a good meal and take it easy.

In general I believe one should always keep sailing until the wind really gets out of hand. That is until you can no longer heave to, I mean that the boat can not set any sail at all. At which point there are various options:
1. Running with it under bare poles. This works but you need sea room and if it is in generally the right direction makes sense. If not then:
a. Jordan series rogue
b. Lie with no sails and leave the boat to it. This is pretty horrible and can be dangerous in big seas but for example after the Fastnet race of 1979 there were many abandoned boats floating undamaged when the storm passed.
Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 in Preveza Greece.
> On 24 Jul 2019, at 05:28, Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...> wrote:
>
> During our recent passage from Boston to the Chesapeake Bay we experienced two severe thunderstorms. In one winds reached 40 kn sustained with gusts to 55 kn for about 10 minutes at the severest. Fortunately the storms were relatively short duration and the seas were confused  not having had a chance to organize and build significantly. Our tactic was to motor into the wind with bare poles. At 40+ knots even at full throttle we could barely maintain rudder control as we made way at around 2+/- knots: The wind would push the bow 20 to 30° off course before recovery under autopilot. We did not try hand steering as the auto pilot was doing an OK job in general. It’s seems that in any greater amount of wind or with a more significantly organized sea this tactic would have put us broadside to the wind and waves and then who knows what?
> Drouges and see anchors make a lot of sense for longer duration storms.  Thoughts on storm tactics for short duration events such as this?
> Mike Ondra
> Aletes SM 240
> Rock Hall, MD
>
>
>
>
>




Re: Storm tactics

ngtnewington Newington
 

Mike,
Heave to under small amount of mizzen or main and scrap of jib backwinded. Lash helm such that the boat sits at about 50 degrees from the wind. She should for-reach at about 2-5 knots.
Then have a cup of tea, relax and assess. You will be amazed at how comfy this is. You should practice the tactic in 25 kn.
I have used this tactic in many situations on various boats. On one occasion for 48 hours on passage to New Zealand from Tonga in 1991.
I also use it when I want to slow down for a day light entry and sometimes if it is rough to just make a good meal and take it easy.

In general I believe one should always keep sailing until the wind really gets out of hand. That is until you can no longer heave to, I mean that the boat can not set any sail at all. At which point there are various options:
1. Running with it under bare poles. This works but you need sea room and if it is in generally the right direction makes sense. If not then:
a. Jordan series rogue
b. Lie with no sails and leave the boat to it. This is pretty horrible and can be dangerous in big seas but for example after the Fastnet race of 1979 there were many abandoned boats floating undamaged when the storm passed.
Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 in Preveza Greece.

On 24 Jul 2019, at 05:28, Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

During our recent passage from Boston to the Chesapeake Bay we experienced two severe thunderstorms. In one winds reached 40 kn sustained with gusts to 55 kn for about 10 minutes at the severest. Fortunately the storms were relatively short duration and the seas were confused not having had a chance to organize and build significantly. Our tactic was to motor into the wind with bare poles. At 40+ knots even at full throttle we could barely maintain rudder control as we made way at around 2+/- knots: The wind would push the bow 20 to 30° off course before recovery under autopilot. We did not try hand steering as the auto pilot was doing an OK job in general. It’s seems that in any greater amount of wind or with a more significantly organized sea this tactic would have put us broadside to the wind and waves and then who knows what?
Drouges and see anchors make a lot of sense for longer duration storms. Thoughts on storm tactics for short duration events such as this?
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM 240
Rock Hall, MD




Re: Storm tactics

eric freedman
 

I don't leave home without the Ace Sailmakers Jordan series drogue.

We were in a Hurricane for 36 hours.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

http://www.oceannavigator.com/March-April-2011/Prepare-for-survival-conditions/

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mike Ondra via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 10:29 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Storm tactics

During our recent passage from Boston to the Chesapeake Bay we experienced two severe thunderstorms. In one winds reached 40 kn sustained with gusts to 55 kn for about 10 minutes at the severest. Fortunately the storms were relatively short duration and the seas were confused not having had a chance to organize and build significantly. Our tactic was to motor into the wind with bare poles. At 40+ knots even at full throttle we could barely maintain rudder control as we made way at around 2+/- knots: The wind would push the bow 20 to 30° off course before recovery under autopilot. We did not try hand steering as the auto pilot was doing an OK job in general. It’s seems that in any greater amount of wind or with a more significantly organized sea this tactic would have put us broadside to the wind and waves and then who knows what?
Drouges and see anchors make a lot of sense for longer duration storms. Thoughts on storm tactics for short duration events such as this?
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM 240
Rock Hall, MD

Re: Storm tactics

karkauai
 

Hi Mike,

We got caught in a slow moving front last spring with 35-40kts with gusts over 45 from the N (where we wanted to go). We didn’t want to run S with the storm and lose a lot of ground, and tacking into 8-12 ft seas didn’t seem like much fun (and probably wouldn’t have gotten us very far N). We hove to for almost 48 hours with a small handkerchief of jib and about 1/2 of the mizzen, drifting directly downwind. The slick we created to windward calmed any breakers (only one small breaker slapped the boat in all that time), the motion was benign, and we lost only 50 miles in two days.

In thunderstorms with high winds, I reduce sail as the storm approaches, and if there is room, I keep the wind on the aft quarter until it abates. It often changes direction continuously as the storm passes, it can take an hour or more until the prevailing winds return.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Jul 23, 2019, at 10:28 PM, Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

During our recent passage from Boston to the Chesapeake Bay we experienced two severe thunderstorms. In one winds reached 40 kn sustained with gusts to 55 kn for about 10 minutes at the severest. Fortunately the storms were relatively short duration and the seas were confused not having had a chance to organize and build significantly. Our tactic was to motor into the wind with bare poles. At 40+ knots even at full throttle we could barely maintain rudder control as we made way at around 2+/- knots: The wind would push the bow 20 to 30° off course before recovery under autopilot. We did not try hand steering as the auto pilot was doing an OK job in general. It’s seems that in any greater amount of wind or with a more significantly organized sea this tactic would have put us broadside to the wind and waves and then who knows what?
Drouges and see anchors make a lot of sense for longer duration storms. Thoughts on storm tactics for short duration events such as this?
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM 240
Rock Hall, MD

Storm tactics

Mike Ondra
 

During our recent passage from Boston to the Chesapeake Bay we experienced two severe thunderstorms. In one winds reached 40 kn sustained with gusts to 55 kn for about 10 minutes at the severest. Fortunately the storms were relatively short duration and the seas were confused not having had a chance to organize and build significantly. Our tactic was to motor into the wind with bare poles. At 40+ knots even at full throttle we could barely maintain rudder control as we made way at around 2+/- knots: The wind would push the bow 20 to 30° off course before recovery under autopilot. We did not try hand steering as the auto pilot was doing an OK job in general. It’s seems that in any greater amount of wind or with a more significantly organized sea this tactic would have put us broadside to the wind and waves and then who knows what?
Drouges and see anchors make a lot of sense for longer duration storms. Thoughts on storm tactics for short duration events such as this?
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM 240
Rock Hall, MD

Re: Water maker Questions

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Bill et al,
World Health Organization to the rescue; but anything <500 ppm is good.
"TDS is a measure of Total Dissolved Solids in Water which comprise of inorganic salts, principally calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, bicarbonates, chlorides and sulfates, and small amounts of organic matter that are dissolved in water. TDS in drinking-water originates from natural sources, sewage, urban runoff, and industrial wastewater. Concentrations of TDS in water vary considerably in different geological regions owing to differences in the solubility of minerals.

According to WHO report on Drinking water standards, NO health-based guideline value is proposed for TDS in Drinking Water which essentially means that human body can ingest any amount of TDS in water without any health impact. Now the question is …Why high TDS is considered bad in Drinking Water?

The simple reason is the palatability or taste! Yes, you heard it right. High levels of TDS in drinking-water may have a certain objectionable taste because of salts. The palatability of water with a TDS level of less than 600 mg/liter is generally considered to be good; drinking-water becomes significantly unpalatable at TDS levels greater than 1200 mg/liter. Also, TDS may be high because of certain chemicals which are harmful and hence purification is required to eradicate them. However, this is not a concern in naturally available water. Thus, we can drink the water of any TDS level if it is devoid of harmful pathogens, chemical, and other unacceptable impurities.Hence…high TDS does not lead to any health problem. The presence of high levels of TDS may also be objectionable because of excessive scaling in water pipes, heaters, boilers, and household appliances.

Alternatively, water with extremely low concentrations of TDS may also be unacceptable because of its flat, insipid taste.Most purification techniques such as filtration, membrane processing or sedimentation aim to eliminate the impurities that form high TDS. Water is treated or purified to maintain palatability as well as purity in terms of microbial and chemical composition. It has nothing to do with TDS or mineral content. Purifiers in the market with TDS modulator or a Mineral Booster are just for marketing promotion for naïve customers and do not have any rationale behind it.

To know more about TDS in drinking water, go through the following research published by WHO.WHO Guidelines for drinking-water quality -2008

http://www.who.int/water_sanitat...

Re: Dessslator HP hoses

Alan Grayson
 

Thanks Guys, I think i have found a shop who can do it. Thanks for the advice i did not even think about hydraulic shops as i would prefer food grade hoses.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

Gary (s/v Liahona),

Thank you for the advice, I'll take a good look at the lip seal issue you brought up.  Their parts list for the H6 has an "Ecopur Seal", which I take to be the lip seal.

Duane

Re: Dessslator HP hoses

eric freedman
 

Alan,

You can go to any hydraulic shop—they can make you up the hoses for  you.

They are usually rated at 4000 psi and have swaged on fittings. Probably for 50-60 dollars.

If I remember correctly the fittings are called JIC fittings.

I have been using these type of hoses for my stove, the hydraulic brake hose as a spare, and my watermaker. They do have drinking water quality hoses on special order , however I use regular hoses and my TDS meter always reads around 200.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

Here is the fitting in steel- granger  might have it in brass or ss.

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/2F513?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3LnOwoLM4wIVjYzICh0irgnYEAQYBCABEgIxmvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI3LnOwoLM4wIVjYzICh0irgnYEAQYBCABEgIxmvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!284662588495!!!g!475511574427!

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 11:47 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessslator HP hoses

 

Hi All, im about to order new HP hoses from the dessalator rep in the US. The end fittings are reusable and so you only need to buy the hose unless like me one of your ends are damaged.
There are 2 options for this.
1: buy the hose from France and any ends that you need. Hose $40 fittings $93.00 each, shipping $70
2: buy new hose and ends from the US. the hose is different and the fittings are slightly different with the same threaded ends. They are not interchangeable. Cost of 2 new hoses $472.00
I'm buying the hose and 1 end fitting from France.
If anyone else wants to buy either hoses or fittings from France and add to my order please let me know by Thurs 25th by noon eastern time. The order will be shipping to me in Annapolis and i'll forward from here if you pay shipping to your destination.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai
Annapolis, MD

Re: 1986 Amel Maramu 46 Mainsail Furling Motors

 

"... if they would just give us the spec of the motor - or an equivalent..."  They don't do things that way, and Martinique is the wrong place to ask because they order all of the parts they sell from La Rochelle.

If you follow the instructions I gave you, you will get an answer, but since it will require them ordering a part for a 33 year old Amel, your request probably will not get the priority that another will get ordering a motor for a 15 year old Amel and that part is still stocked by Amel.

Note, that one part of the instructions I say, "In an emergency you can phone SAV at +33 (0) 546 55 00 75." Call them. French or English.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 3:21 PM Samantha Jane Bartlett <bartlettsam@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill,

We have asked for a quote from both Amel in Martinique and SAV in France - my husband has spoken with them in French (he's French) and we are still getting no joy.  I understand it's a 33 year old boat but if they would just give us the spec of the motor - or an equivalent, we can work with it!  He's going to try and call again tomorrow to France... but this has been going on a long time now and we're no further forward.  Our old motors are just too rusty to get any info from!

Re: 1986 Amel Maramu 46 Mainsail Furling Motors

Bill Fletcher
 

Hi I own a 85 Maramu and have had to have these motors repaired. They may be rusty but a good DC motor rebuilder can usually get them working again. They are just a old 12Volt dc starter motor. The problem sounds like a stuck or warn out brush. I don’t know where you are but there is usually a rebuilder that can help you out. Good luck. 
Fair winds
Bill Fletcher 
Tahitian Dream 
Maramu 179

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:21 AM Samantha Jane Bartlett <bartlettsam@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill,

We have asked for a quote from both Amel in Martinique and SAV in France - my husband has spoken with them in French (he's French) and we are still getting no joy.  I understand it's a 33 year old boat but if they would just give us the spec of the motor - or an equivalent, we can work with it!  He's going to try and call again tomorrow to France... but this has been going on a long time now and we're no further forward.  Our old motors are just too rusty to get any info from!

Re: 1986 Amel Maramu 46 Mainsail Furling Motors

Samantha Jane Bartlett
 

Thanks Bill,

We have asked for a quote from both Amel in Martinique and SAV in France - my husband has spoken with them in French (he's French) and we are still getting no joy.  I understand it's a 33 year old boat but if they would just give us the spec of the motor - or an equivalent, we can work with it!  He's going to try and call again tomorrow to France... but this has been going on a long time now and we're no further forward.  Our old motors are just too rusty to get any info from!

Re: Auto pilot for a Santorin 46

smiles bernard
 

Hi there

Just some thoughts related to reliance on the autopilot.

We bought our Maramu to sail short handed, long distance with young kids onboard and this led me to consider our reliance on a single autopilot.

The electric autopilot has been excellent but I did want a reliable plan B.

I looked into replicating the very nice SM dual autopilot system with the addition of a linear drive unit on the steering quadrant.

In the end, for true resilience (ACU, control head, rudder sensor, drive unit) the costs and instal complexity led me to a wind vane instead.

I’ve used various wind vanes before on long trips - both servo pendulum and independent rudder systems. In each case the vanes quickly became one of the most essential things on the boat.

Almost zero maintenance, very robust and zero electronics and battery draw and they work better as the wind blows harder.

In the end for our Maramu I chose a Hydrovane as it operates independently of the boats steering system and works well with a center cockpit arrangement.

It’s has been steering our boat faultlessly since we installed it. In fact I’ve hardly used the Raymarine autopilot since we added the Hydrovane.

I believe the windpilot Pacific 2 is similar in nature in that it steers the boat whilst the main rudder is locked off but Ive not had the pleasure of trying one out yet.
.

I wonder if the SM is getting a little too big for a wind vane. Anyone tried a wind vane on the SM?

All the best
Miles
Maramu 162

On 21 Jul 2019, at 09:19, JOHN HAYES <johnhayes862@...> wrote:

Thanks to those who responded with sensible advice

With time on our hands we bit the bullet first pulling the motor apart and discovered that the small springs holding the brushes in place needed a tweak so they applied more pressure to their task

Then we pulled the arm apart including the small ball bearings gave all a good clean then applied lithium grease. Delicate and slow work to get the ball bearings in place. (Same system as the steering in a David brown tractor)

Whole job took about 6 hours but the auto pilot is working again......whew!!!

There is a shipment of motors and arms heading to NZ in early August......nga Waka’s name is on one of them

Thanks again for the collective advice

Best

John Hayes Sn 41
On 21/07/2019, at 7:55 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi John, 7 days hand steering is not much fun, I feel for you. My ray marine auto helm stopped functioning once when we were transiting French Polynesia and there was limited help available. All those technicians I could find advised all sorts of expensive replacements. A wise long time cruiser said check the electrical connections to the linear drive. He was right, they were wrong. There was a corroded wire joint. I had wasted two weeks waiting for parts to be delivered. Although two weeks in Raeatea isn't too painful. My fist lesson. Many many faults on our boats systems are caused by simple connection corrosion.
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 20 July 2019 at 20:22 JOHN HAYES <johnhayes862@...> wrote:


Hi all

Nga Waka reached Nuku’alofa this afternoon after a slow head wind slog from Wellington; the last 7 days hand steered

The system on the yacht is a Raymarine ST6002 and has been very satisfactory.......until now! It’s a Non hydraulic system and we guess the problem may be brushes in the linear actuator.

Whether or not we can do a repair here in Nuku’alofa I’d like to purchase a second system to install so we might avoid the situation over the past week.

In that context has any one out there purchased an auto helm they find satisfactory and could you please provide a brand and model number.

Thanks for any help or advice anyone might supply

John Hayes sn 41




Re: Water maker Questions

Mark McGovern
 
Edited

Tom,

250 ppm is what you are looking for as far as TDS goes. The EPA’s recommended maximum level of TDS in water is 500 ppm.  Note, it's not a limit, just a recommendation.  The 500 number you saw may have been for Conductivity (proxy for Salinity) which is measure in microSiemens/cm (µS/cm).  You want that between 200 and 800 and I think Dessalator claims 250 TDS and 550 Conductivity in their marketing material. 

I picked up this kit from Amazon to test it:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SQTKH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have no idea how accurate it is, but it gives me reasonable results for tap water, distilled water, Chesapeake Bay water and watermaker water so it appears to be accurate enough.
 
--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: 1986 Amel Maramu 46 Mainsail Furling Motors

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

Bill and Sam 
I am sorry but i dont read it is a Maramu 
Thenk you Bill to clear it 

Best Elja 
SM Balu

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 23.07.2019 um 22:02 schrieb CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>:

BE CAREFUL. A Maramu is a 12 volt boat and a Super Maramu is 24 volt. The motors are different: Apples:Oranges.

Samantha, it may not be possible to replace with OEM devices on a 30 year old boat, but if anyone can do it, it is Amel.

You should follow the instructions on the attached to order a part. If you are asking Amel where you can buy the motor or how to contact Leroy Somers, you are absolutely asking the wrong question. You should be requesting a quote and you should include all of the steps outlined in the attached.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 10:42 AM Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222 <Bijorka@...> wrote:
I ordert one by Amel 4 weeks ago 
For SM 222 
I think the will have in Stok 
It is not possibel to order by Leroy somer ore other way only by Amel 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 23.07.2019 um 18:26 schrieb Samantha Jane Bartlett <bartlettsam@...>:

Hi,

I've been through all the info in the messages here and we've been trying to get an answer from Amel for weeks with no success - Our mainsail furling and outhaul motors are completely rusted up (inherited problem) and we need to replace them.  They are 3 pole motors but I can't get any info on the specs - closest I've found on here is a Leroy Somer MBT82-M?? 3,100 revs and 450W...

I've trawled the Leroy Somer website and googled for a supplier but I'm still struggling - can anyone confirm the specs and a supplier?  We've installed a work-around with a Quick windlass motor but I'm pretty sure we've overpowered it... it would be great to have some specs so that we can replace them with the right ones!

Thank you!
Sam

<Ordering from Amel.pdf>

Re: Water maker Questions

 

Might "not taste anything," but most people cannot tolerate their drinking water with anything over 500ppm. Most people will retain water at 500ppm. Before you start abusing your body to save a few euros on membrane costs, you might want to ask your doctor.

Tom, I can't answer your question about "acceptable" in your situation because I don't believe you gave specifics in ocean water. Watermaker output depends on many things, including pressure, membranes, pressure maintained, salt content of the water, and even temperature. Your D60 new membranes should produce 1 liter a minute +/-10% when making freshwater from ocean water and a pressure of 50 BAR on the outside of the membranes. If your membranes are 2 years old, the TDS should be around 250 after about 5 minutes of production. In 1 hour the TDS may improve slightly.

It is true that Dessalator has waffled on what is good quality in terms of TDS. The WHO states 500ppm or less. Spectra Watermakers say 1000ppm, or less (a laugh everytime I hear this). Judy and I changed membranes about every 4 years because we could definitely tell when the TDS moved above 325-350.

I hope this helps.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 2:01 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
You won’t taste anything in your water below 1000 ppm tds.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Jul 23, 2019, at 2:51 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Tom,
500 ppm is considered the upper limit, anything below that is acceptable for drinking water. However once the membranes get to the point of delivering either 500ppm of close to it they are arriving at replacement time. 280 is acceptable and of course at start up you will see higher levels. My duo 60 has manual controls and I run product water to waste for a couple of minutes after start up. So long as the tds goes down to an acceptable quite quickly dilution would deal with it. 0.75l/m is not far off 60 l/h the and if you give the watermaker some long use you may find you get it up there. So in summary. 500ppm is the upper limit but you wont die if it is a little higher. Anything in the mid 300 and below is quite acceptable. Once my tds gets over 400ppm on a regular basis I start planning for replacement. Like anything, the best treatment is regular use.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 24 July 2019 at 05:05 Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


I’m hoping to get a few tips on our water maker. We have a LaRochelle installed Dessalator, I believe a D60, SM 240, 24 volts only. We have used it only sporadically.
I put new membranes in 2 years ago. I am trying to be sure it works properly, we are in the Chesapeake Bay, which is only brackish water so we don’t use it there. Going to Martinique this fall.
The Dessalator manual at one point says we should have 250 TDS, at another it says 500, which certainly tastes brackish.
At 40 bar we get 270, at 60 bar about 330, which then goes down to 280 after about 5 minutes. We get 0.75 liters/minute.
Is this acceptable performance? I am more concerned about the TDS than the rate. I would like to clean the membranes as suggested by Dessalator, all they say is “cleaning solution”. Is this the same as the pickling compound, sodium metabisulfite?
Thanks as always for everyone’s insights.
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay






Re: Dessslator HP hoses

 

Alan,

FYI, I bought 2 high pressure hydraulic hoses 6' long with stainless steel 3/8" JIC Flare end fittings crimped on both ends of the hoses for about $200.

Don't forget about your Yacht School Discount at Dessalator.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 1:58 PM Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:
Hello Alan,

You can get great quality hoses from an hydraulic shop which services the dairy industry with food grade components.

I went that route and never had a problem with My Dessalator.

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain 
Eleuthera, SM 007, Fiji


On 24 Jul 2019, at 03:46, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:

Hi All, im about to order new HP hoses from the dessalator rep in the US. The end fittings are reusable and so you only need to buy the hose unless like me one of your ends are damaged.
There are 2 options for this.
1: buy the hose from France and any ends that you need. Hose $40 fittings $93.00 each, shipping $70
2: buy new hose and ends from the US. the hose is different and the fittings are slightly different with the same threaded ends. They are not interchangeable. Cost of 2 new hoses $472.00
I'm buying the hose and 1 end fitting from France.
If anyone else wants to buy either hoses or fittings from France and add to my order please let me know by Thurs 25th by noon eastern time. The order will be shipping to me in Annapolis and i'll forward from here if you pay shipping to your destination.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai
Annapolis, MD