Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change
Hi Paul,
be informed, Coppercoat needs a regular service with cleaning with pressure wash and sanding so the copper comes get activated and comes to the surface! I am not opportune against Coppercoat, but why the commercial ships don't use it? For 3 years in water you can use a GOOD antifouling and paint it again. But according the AMEL service plan it is a 2 years rhythm to haul out. A friend of mine, also a SM got problems after 5 years and he let the job do again. He is one money takes no matter! He is happy so far there is someone who do the Job! The cutless bearing (think you mean the C-Drive bearing) needs a replacement all 2 years or 800 h. Arnold SY Zephyr SM203 Am 28.11.2019 um 16:51 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>: Hi all, How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage. Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 -- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 -- SY Zephyr SM203
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Question about Cutlass bearing change
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Hi all,
How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage.
Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem
Hi Kristy, Il 28/11/2019 16:25, karkauai via
Groups.Io ha scritto:
Hi Giovanni. On SM 243 the portlights were sealed with a LOT of clear silicone caulk. That made removing the wooden panels inside very difficult. If you use anything stronger than that you will never get the panels off without destroying them.
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Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem
Hi Giovanni. On SM 243 the portlights were sealed with a LOT of clear silicone caulk. That made removing the wooden panels inside very difficult. If you use anything stronger than that you will never get the panels off without destroying them.
Kent & Iris Kristy Heading S from the Chesapeake in about 2weeks. On Nov 28, 2019, at 5:03 AM, Giovanni TESTA <giovannitesta53@...> wrote:
Hi to all, Il 27/11/2019 14:52, Mark McGovern ha
scritto:
Duane,
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Re: Mizzen furler
Patrick McAneny
Randall, It looks as though the tooth broke nearly completely off ,its hard to understand when enough force would ever be applied on the gear to break it off. Sounds like things came apart for you easier than for others ,probably due to your boat being newer than the SMs. I think I may try to disassemble mine just to clean it up, if I can without resorting to extreme measures.
Good luck finding the part,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Sent: Thu, Nov 28, 2019 8:17 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler Pat I took the mizzen furler off yesterday It was an easy task I took it to complete disassembly stage. Bill sent me the info on the disassembly leave the sail on undo the bolt holding it to the sail foil lift the foil with the sail halyard up 2 inches undo the 2 bolts on the outside of the mast and slide the unit out then you need to disassemble the unit.
I first removed the allen bolt from inside the crank and then attempted to unscrew the part that holds the Delrin/Teflon bushings clean then reassemble. I took it one step further and unscrewed the bottom part of the furler and cleaned the bearings and reassembled. You will see the gear on mine is damaged from corrosion ( I will source a replacement gear)
Randall A54#56
On Wed, Nov 27, 2019 at 2:40 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install
Does anyone know what the safe continuous output for the LN175 would be? Or any information on the out put curve specific to this alternator. I don't recall seeing it. Just the 175 amp rating.
On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:18 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote: Yes Bob,
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Re: Mizzen furler
Randall Walker
On Thu, Nov 28, 2019 at 2:17 PM Randall Walker via Groups.Io <sailingalbedo=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Mizzen furler
Randall Walker
Pat I took the mizzen furler off yesterday It was an easy task I took it to complete disassembly stage. Bill sent me the info on the disassembly leave the sail on undo the bolt holding it to the sail foil lift the foil with the sail halyard up 2 inches undo the 2 bolts on the outside of the mast and slide the unit out then you need to disassemble the unit. I first removed the allen bolt from inside the crank and then attempted to unscrew the part that holds the Delrin/Teflon bushings clean then reassemble. I took it one step further and unscrewed the bottom part of the furler and cleaned the bearings and reassembled. You will see the gear on mine is damaged from corrosion ( I will source a replacement gear) Randall A54#56
On Wed, Nov 27, 2019 at 2:40 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Mizzen furler
Linda Melton <lindajmelton@...>
Agree with ‘Ocean Pearl’. 4 seasons in the Caribbean, then 18 months back in UK waters (including the usual H2O from the sky) saw many moving parts moving much more easily. Salt was an issue out there.
Ian ‘Ocean Hobo’ SN96
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Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem
Hi to all, Il 27/11/2019 14:52, Mark McGovern ha
scritto:
Duane,
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Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install
Yes Bob,
Traditional alternators can be a problem. Remember though that on our boats there is a 1:2 ratio between engine rpm and alternator rpm so when the engine is doing 1000rpm the alternator is doing 2000. This is where alternators like Delstar and Idlepro Extreme come into their own. These are 220/250amp alternators that can deliver 80-90% of rated output @ 2000 alternator rpm. The standard LN175 can't do that and if you increase the rpm to produce more amps it will only do it for a while before everything turns to custard. We have big battery banks that can have very high charge acceptance rates with AGM, firefly or lithium batteries, so you need to think about these things very carefully in designing and operating a system that will achieve what you want safely. Cheers Alan Elyse SM 437
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Re: Mizzen furler
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Pat, Keep dousing it with water and working it until it is completely free. The salt will be well encrusted. Don"t forget to squirt up the input shaft too. I have never greased it. I have wondered about installing grease nipples as I did with the furler and outhaul gearboxes but the collective wisdom was that (unlike the main) the mizzen gearbox was constructed to allow the flow of water through. I have never investigated further. Given the total success of the flush followed by drying out and then silicone I will stay with that. The main clearly is sealed with either oil or grease in it. I am seriously considering adding grease nipples to that. The 54s with their water ingress problem to the mains gearbox could consider that. Water has trouble flowing into something packed full of grease. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 28 November 2019 at 10:54 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install
rossirossix4
Dan and Alan-
Fascinating stuff (as I think ahead to a lithium conversion). This video does a good job of discussing and demonstrating what you are writing about AND talks about problems with low RPM/high charging situations. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgoIocPgOug Bob, KAIMI SM429 Trying to save up money for them thar newfangled Lithiums
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Re: Question
Porter McRoberts
I don’t have much Bilk and we’re away from the boat.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Let me know what you get. We’ll be back in 10-12 days. Thanks Porter Excuse the errors. Sent from my IPhone Www.fouribis.com
On Nov 28, 2019, at 1:15 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Question
I am updating my Amel Book and need more photos of the mainsail 54/55 outhaul motor and gearbox...possibly some disassembled photos. The one below is the only one that I have at this time. --
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Re: Santorin Furling/Outhaul Solenoid Wiring Question
Eric Meury
Thanks oliver.
This has been an issue for me. Do you know a replacement Solenoid for these. I have a 12 Volt Santorin.
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Re: Mizzen furler
Patrick McAneny
Mark, That was very informative ,the files contain a wealth of info ,especially Gary's .
Thank You Both,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2019 12:20 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler Pat,
Gary Silver uploaded a file with an excellent write-up on overhauling the Mizzen Furler called "SM Mizzen Furling Gearbox Overhaul". You can find it in the files section if you search for "SM Mizzen Furling Gearbox Overhaul" or find the link at the bottom of this post: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/48035?p=,,,20,0,0,0::Created,,gary+silver+mizzen,20,2,0,34250823 -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: Mizzen furler
Patrick McAneny
Danny, I think you may be onto something, last week I only had a few minutes to deal with the furler and it appeared that the swivel moved freely. Today I discovered that it only rotated freely an inch or so in either direction and stopped ,so I assumed my problem was elsewhere. I doused it with water and with winch handle was able to get it to rotate ,although it comes to a spot and wants to stop ,but with a little more effort it moves past that spot. I will douse it again with warm water and then lubricate it . have you ever added any grease to the gearbox?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2019 11:55 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler Hi Pat,
"Gob smacked" is a Kiwi colloquialism (saying) for very, totally, completely, utterly amazed. (and any other adjectives you can think of) The salt levels in the Caribbean are higher, or so it seemed to my observation. The build up of salt on the rails and the rust on stainless is much greater than other places. You have just had a season there which is why i am sure it is salt causing your "never before" problem. The tropical Pacific has similar salt issues and I find the same sort of thing affecting furlers, blocks, cars and anything else that moves. Many SM owners including me have found the mizzen hard to unfurl requiring some effort on the winch handles. Now I have eliminated the salt from all those points mine unfurls with a tug on the outhaul line, no winch winding needed, on either the outhaul or the gearbox.
I was "gob smacked"
Cheers
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 28 November 2019 at 02:40 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem
Duane Siegfri
Thanks for the replies! I have used the toothpick trick at home many times, why not here!
Duane
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Re: Later model 54 & possibly 55 Furling Motor Seal Question
Hi Bill,
I have just had this problem. My in-main-mast-furler from 2010 was blocking (September in Ponta Delagada) due to a broken lip seal. The lip seal did break into pieces, did fall apart and water came in. Because of the lack of a purge (construction fault!) water did stay in the brake in the lower part of the furler cylinder and did corrode the brake up to compolete blocking. I have learned from Amel Yacht Owners Forum that this happens frequently. I received soon a new furler from Amel (2,5 k€) which has a shaft seal instead of the lip seal and a purge at the bottom. Much better. Thomas Dargel from Boat&Sail Service in Ponta Delagada did an excellent job in repairing the system for me: He did install 2 shaft seals instead of the lip seal, a purge near the bottom and he did re-activate the corroded brake. It needs a carefull synchronisation with the furler engine . Thomas did also find out the source of the brake and the exact part number. The manufacturer of the furler LEROY SOMER did not sell the brakes separately for selling complete systems. Bad business as usual :-). I did give this information to Maud Tuillaud from SAV AMEL. I give it to everybody who wants to have it. My decision is for my ship to re-install the old repaired furler - and have the new one as a spare part onboard. My advice to you is … do the same as Thomas did: Throw away the lip seal and find someone with a lathe to open the top platein a way that you can install 1 or even better 2 shaft seals. Always water runs down the sail exactly on to the middle of the furler engine. The lip sail is not sufficient and a stable solution. If you require any further details contact me. Alexander SY Oceanica I - Amel54 #156
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