Date   

Re: Companion way for removal

 

Courtney,

Good idea. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Wed, Oct 16, 2019, 2:26 PM Courtney Gorman via Groups.Io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Just a thought as I have no experience in removing the dodger but if you could thread braided fishing line between the dodger and the deck then you could tie 'Handles' to both ends and 'saw' through the caulk with NO risk of damage.  
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101


-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Oct 15, 2019 9:26 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

[Edited Message Follows]
Our dodger was, indeed, well bedded to the deck. I'm sure everyone's is - it's the "AMEL Way".  What I did was to VERY carefully, using a fish filleting knife, insert it under the dodger to cut the caulk. That is a CAPITAL LETTERS VERY CAREFULLY! You may come up a better tool but it must be very sharp, very thin and very strong.

First though, I rigged a line to a halyard with some snatch blocks to the mizzen to make it lift straight up from the dodger, then led it through the windshield opening window and applied a LOT of lifting force.  Then I went to the filet knife and started cutting. After a while I saw some movement and then used some chisels as wedges to break the seal more and it finally worked. I had three tiny nicks (about 1/8th inch roundish)  in the deck gelcoat at some places in the base of the dodger where I was not careful enough with the chisel.  I patched them and they are not visible now. This took about 3 hours to do. You should take 4 hours and not nick the gelcoat at all.

Once the dodger popped free it is easy-peasy. There is wire through the deck in the middle of the dodger going to the overhead light but it has enough slack (about 6 inches) so you can easily tilt and swing the dodger to allow the companionway hatch to slide up and out. Re-bedding was very easy. I just used silicone so if I need to take it off again it will be easy, but you can take your pick of bedding compounds.

If I recall correctly, I did this about 2004 and the Plexiglas (Perspex in Europe?) is still in excellent condition. It does have a couple of barely noticeable vertical scratches where I must have been careless with not cleaning off some boatyard grit, but, it's hardly noticeable and hey, we're talking 15 years!. 

The one thing that isn't perfect is that I chose a plexiglass with a very light grey tint that seemed like a good idea at the time.  That's great, as during the day it looks like a black mirror from the outside, giving complete privacy below - at night with lights on below you can see right through, hence the hanging privacy shade. During the day, though, if the hatch is closed and exposed to direct sunlight it heats up and expands such that it binds in the track and is hard to open or close. Just a small annoyance, but if I did it again I might choose totally clear plexiglass and maybe a fraction thinner. Or, and it's one of those "one-of-these-years" things, I might just sand the wood slots a bit wider but, obviously, it's not a big deal. We've got a great "T-Top" over the cockpit so sun on the plexiglass is rare. 

Katherine and I think it is one of the best modifications we made to the boat and we did not do it until we had lived aboard for 5 years, so we did think it out thoroughly. Then, after we did it we hired a psychic who put us in touch with "The Captain" - the psychic said that he was smiling! That's our story and we're stickin' to it!

Cheers, Craig


Re: mizzen traveller

Mark McGovern
 

Paul,

Bill Kinney did a blog post about how he did it on SM Harmonie:  https://fetchinketch.net/boat-projects/mizzen-traveler/

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Companion way for removal

Courtney Gorman
 

Just a thought as I have no experience in removing the dodger but if you could thread braided fishing line between the dodger and the deck then you could tie 'Handles' to both ends and 'saw' through the caulk with NO risk of damage.  
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101


-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Oct 15, 2019 9:26 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

[Edited Message Follows]
Our dodger was, indeed, well bedded to the deck. I'm sure everyone's is - it's the "AMEL Way".  What I did was to VERY carefully, using a fish filleting knife, insert it under the dodger to cut the caulk. That is a CAPITAL LETTERS VERY CAREFULLY! You may come up a better tool but it must be very sharp, very thin and very strong.

First though, I rigged a line to a halyard with some snatch blocks to the mizzen to make it lift straight up from the dodger, then led it through the windshield opening window and applied a LOT of lifting force.  Then I went to the filet knife and started cutting. After a while I saw some movement and then used some chisels as wedges to break the seal more and it finally worked. I had three tiny nicks (about 1/8th inch roundish)  in the deck gelcoat at some places in the base of the dodger where I was not careful enough with the chisel.  I patched them and they are not visible now. This took about 3 hours to do. You should take 4 hours and not nick the gelcoat at all.

Once the dodger popped free it is easy-peasy. There is wire through the deck in the middle of the dodger going to the overhead light but it has enough slack (about 6 inches) so you can easily tilt and swing the dodger to allow the companionway hatch to slide up and out. Re-bedding was very easy. I just used silicone so if I need to take it off again it will be easy, but you can take your pick of bedding compounds.

If I recall correctly, I did this about 2004 and the Plexiglas (Perspex in Europe?) is still in excellent condition. It does have a couple of barely noticeable vertical scratches where I must have been careless with not cleaning off some boatyard grit, but, it's hardly noticeable and hey, we're talking 15 years!. 

The one thing that isn't perfect is that I chose a plexiglass with a very light grey tint that seemed like a good idea at the time.  That's great, as during the day it looks like a black mirror from the outside, giving complete privacy below - at night with lights on below you can see right through, hence the hanging privacy shade. During the day, though, if the hatch is closed and exposed to direct sunlight it heats up and expands such that it binds in the track and is hard to open or close. Just a small annoyance, but if I did it again I might choose totally clear plexiglass and maybe a fraction thinner. Or, and it's one of those "one-of-these-years" things, I might just sand the wood slots a bit wider but, obviously, it's not a big deal. We've got a great "T-Top" over the cockpit so sun on the plexiglass is rare. 

Katherine and I think it is one of the best modifications we made to the boat and we did not do it until we had lived aboard for 5 years, so we did think it out thoroughly. Then, after we did it we hired a psychic who put us in touch with "The Captain" - the psychic said that he was smiling! That's our story and we're stickin' to it!

Cheers, Craig


Sharki Mast Pad?

marklesparkle59
 

Hi, I plan to remove the masts on Sea Hobo, Sharki 96 over the next 3 months at Cardiff Marina Village. I can see no signs of a pad under either mast, is there one on a Sharki?  We will re-use the rigging, Are there instructions available for rig tension mast rake etc. The triassic has always been loose especially when I tension the back stay to sail upwind a little better so I think the rig might be out of shape. Also planning to overhaul the wiring up the masts and replace the head linings. Any tips?
Thanks .
Mark Porter
Sea Hobo 
Sharki #96


mizzen traveller

Paul Osterberg
 

Hello!
I'm planning to arrange so that I can control the Mizzen traveller from the cockpit. does anyone now who have made the track? I need to add end "stop" with sheaves. all advice highly appreciated. such as a source for end "stop"

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259 Lagos Portugal


Re: Companion way for removal

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Dieter,

 We apply beeswax  to the companionway door generously every time we lay the boat up. We also have a winter cover which stops sunlight falling directly on it.  After 19 years the laminate still holds but it won't last forever.

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Laying up in Kilada, Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of INUS - BUSCH via Groups.Io <inusbusch@...>
Sent: 16 October 2019 07:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal
 
Thanks Eric,
I was thinking of maybe someone invented a wax with particles in it to protect a surface from being destroyed by UV. Could be a big market. The mention of automobile supply is very helpful. 
Dieter
Fal-lera Sharki #135

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 16.10.2019 um 06:44 schrieb eric freedman <kimberlite@...>:

Dear Dieter,

I just use a UV  preventive hard wax. I get it at an automotive supply.

I believe a number of members use Polytrol on the decks. After reading Joel Potters comments, I thought I should also use it.

However when I went to their website they have 2 Polytrol s listed . One regular and one Marine.

I called them today and asked what was the difference.

They said it is the same stuff with different labels.

I guess so the chandleries can get more for it. It also costs the same.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376’

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of INUS - BUSCH via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 7:32 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Hi Eric,

you mention the use of wax to block the UV on the Formica. 

I am curious what wax did you use and also if it can be used to prevent the gelcoat from bleaching?
All the best

Dieter

Fal-lera Sharki #135

 


Am 13.10.2019 um 04:10 schrieb eric freedman <kimberlite@...>:

Hi Miles,

I wanted to replace the veneer on Kimberlites companionway and replace it with laminate.

To get to the entire door off  you have to remove the hard dodger.—NO WAY--

I removed the stop and blocked the companionway door all the way up till it touched the dodger. I then made a rail the height of the side trim.

Using these rails and a router I was able to get to  the edges of the door. Of course the veneer that is under the trim cannot be replaced but it cannot be seen. I then routed the entire door and applied the laminate- I used Formica brand color teak. Seven years and it is still holding up. However it is important to use wax to block the UV on the Formica.

Pictures attached.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376


Re: Main mast seal/pad replacement #replacement #solution

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Barry

Thanks for sharing your experience, great Job done! But I can not see the photos. There is no photos attached or on the photo section.? 
Maybe the upload did'nt work or some problems on the Group.io ??

Best regards, Ruedi 
 
"SY WASABI"
Amel 54. #55
Marina di Ragusa 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Barry Connor via Groups.Io" <connor_barry@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Samstag, 12. Oktober 2019 um 11:26
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: [AmelYachtOwners] Main mast seal/pad replacement #Mastpad #replacement #solution

Hi, Barry from Amel 54 #17

As already discussed in these topics like Amel 54 main mast sealMast foot rubber seal pad or Mast foot rubber seal pad I replaced my main mast pad in Hyeres. 

Amel Hyeres could not do the work due to schedule and recommended https://goo.gl/maps/xfvc617B1V2vpsUw5, contacts Adeline and Didier. At first they quoted for and wanted to remove the complete mast and then replace the seal/pad and put the mainmast back in place. That would mean disconnecting all electrical and data cables from the mast. I had checked and saw that all electrical and other cables going up the mast had slack enough for raising the mast a few inches, more than 50mm slack.

Having read that the pad could be replaced by just raising the mast couple inches (40mm) I convinced them to do this instead of taking the whole mast down.

Firstly all the rigging was marked and then loosened. The crane operator then began to raise the mast mm by mm. When the mast was high enough to get the small screwdrivers and picks under we removed all the bits from the old pad. Then we used scouring pads to smooth the bottom of the mast and deck.

As we had to cut the pad to get it around the 2 collars going into the deck from the mast bottom that the wiring goes through we had to permanently seal the pad where we made the cuts with 3M 5200. The mast was then lowered and the stays were tightened to the marked positions. The lifting, putting the new pad under the mast and lowering took no more than 1 hour, the preparation took a few hours and the re-tightening took also a few hours.

The crane operator was a pro and had a very precise lifting crane, wind was blowing about 15 to 20 knots from the dock side, we kept an eye on the dockside main stay tension which we did not completely loosen during the lift. The mast was lifted with strap attached mid height and secured at the bottom, completely vertical lift.


Didier and rigger Steve had not done this before, they now know how to do it. My cost was just under €2,000, I think that they can do it for less now that they know how. I bought the pad from Sonja at Amel Hyeres.

I have attached some photos of the work and what my old pad looked like when it came out from under the mast.

Sonja of Amel Hyeres also suppled me a new upgraded deck stem attachment for my main furler, the original attachment by Amel in 2006 was only 6mm and the new stainless steel attachment was now 10mm. This was replaced by Didier and Steve. 

Thanks to Mohammad of B & B Kokomo who had upgraded his furlers, he sent me his old staysail furler which showed very little use, this is installed now as my main furler with mine now stowed as a spare. Amel Hyeres were able to supply me with 2 spare belts for these furlers. Labour cost for all this €2,000. I would recommend that you mark the rigging screw with some paint rather than electrical tape before starting to loosen the rigging.

Please contact me if you have any questions about this.

Best Regards to all.

Barry and Penny
"S/V Lady Penelope II'
Amel 54. #17
Almerimar Marina,  Spain
On route to Caribbean


Re: Access behind the Eno Stove Oven

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Soraya,

Here are the instruction for the SM2K, may be the same idea for the 54.

Removal
http://www.nikimat.com/stove_oven_removal.html

cleaning
http://www.nikimat.com/stove_oven_cleaning.html

putting back
http://www.nikimat.com/stove_oven_repose.html

Alexandre

On Tuesday, October 15, 2019, 9:47:43 PM CDT, Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:


Hello, 

I am considering dismounting the Eno Stove Oven as it seems the only way to properly access and clean the area behind it.
Does it sound like an overkill? any workarounds?
How easy is it to remove and put back? Any recommendations or tips when dismounting the stove/oven?

Thanks

Best,
Soraya
GARULFO A54 #122
Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia


Re: Companion way for removal

INUS - BUSCH
 

Thanks Eric,
I was thinking of maybe someone invented a wax with particles in it to protect a surface from being destroyed by UV. Could be a big market. The mention of automobile supply is very helpful. 
Dieter
Fal-lera Sharki #135

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 16.10.2019 um 06:44 schrieb eric freedman <kimberlite@...>:

Dear Dieter,

I just use a UV  preventive hard wax. I get it at an automotive supply.

I believe a number of members use Polytrol on the decks. After reading Joel Potters comments, I thought I should also use it.

However when I went to their website they have 2 Polytrol s listed . One regular and one Marine.

I called them today and asked what was the difference.

They said it is the same stuff with different labels.

I guess so the chandleries can get more for it. It also costs the same.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376’

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of INUS - BUSCH via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 7:32 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Hi Eric,

you mention the use of wax to block the UV on the Formica. 

I am curious what wax did you use and also if it can be used to prevent the gelcoat from bleaching?
All the best

Dieter

Fal-lera Sharki #135

 


Am 13.10.2019 um 04:10 schrieb eric freedman <kimberlite@...>:

Hi Miles,

I wanted to replace the veneer on Kimberlites companionway and replace it with laminate.

To get to the entire door off  you have to remove the hard dodger.—NO WAY--

I removed the stop and blocked the companionway door all the way up till it touched the dodger. I then made a rail the height of the side trim.

Using these rails and a router I was able to get to  the edges of the door. Of course the veneer that is under the trim cannot be replaced but it cannot be seen. I then routed the entire door and applied the laminate- I used Formica brand color teak. Seven years and it is still holding up. However it is important to use wax to block the UV on the Formica.

Pictures attached.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376


Re: Companion way for removal

eric freedman
 

Dear Dieter,

I just use a UV  preventive hard wax. I get it at an automotive supply.

I believe a number of members use Polytrol on the decks. After reading Joel Potters comments, I thought I should also use it.

However when I went to their website they have 2 Polytrol s listed . One regular and one Marine.

I called them today and asked what was the difference.

They said it is the same stuff with different labels.

I guess so the chandleries can get more for it. It also costs the same.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376’

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of INUS - BUSCH via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 7:32 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Hi Eric,

you mention the use of wax to block the UV on the Formica. 

I am curious what wax did you use and also if it can be used to prevent the gelcoat from bleaching?
All the best

Dieter

Fal-lera Sharki #135

 


Am 13.10.2019 um 04:10 schrieb eric freedman <kimberlite@...>:

Hi Miles,

I wanted to replace the veneer on Kimberlites companionway and replace it with laminate.

To get to the entire door off  you have to remove the hard dodger.—NO WAY--

I removed the stop and blocked the companionway door all the way up till it touched the dodger. I then made a rail the height of the side trim.

Using these rails and a router I was able to get to  the edges of the door. Of course the veneer that is under the trim cannot be replaced but it cannot be seen. I then routed the entire door and applied the laminate- I used Formica brand color teak. Seven years and it is still holding up. However it is important to use wax to block the UV on the Formica.

Pictures attached.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376


Amel Board messages--Just a recollection.

eric freedman
 

When I first received Kimberlite in 2003 there were if I remember correctly,

about a total of about 150 messages  a month on this board .

The number of  communication now is impressive.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: Companion way for removal

scentstone
 

Precise, extensive and poetic description of an intimidating operation ;-)
Thanks a lot Craig !
F. 


Access behind the Eno Stove Oven

Sv Garulfo
 

Hello, 

I am considering dismounting the Eno Stove Oven as it seems the only way to properly access and clean the area behind it.
Does it sound like an overkill? any workarounds?
How easy is it to remove and put back? Any recommendations or tips when dismounting the stove/oven?

Thanks

Best,
Soraya
GARULFO A54 #122
Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia


Re: Onan MDKD 6.5kW genset exhaust elbow

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Karen, 

We have a spare.. but we’re in Fiji...

Kind regards,

Jean-Pierre Germain,SY Eleuthera, Fiji.




On 16 Oct 2019, at 13:27, Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie@...> wrote:

Does anyone have an exhaust elbow for an Onan 6.5kW MDKD generator exhaust elbow?  Onan considers it an "obsolete part" and the price they want for it is mind-numbing... This is for the older, smaller 6.5kW generator installed on the older SM.

We would even be interested in an old one that leaks or is otherwise not serviceable since we have identified a supplier who can craft a new one for a reasonable price from from any elbow that is complete enough for them to get dimensions from. Right now ours works, but is patched with JB Weld, and we can't afford to send it off and be without a generator for the 6 to 12 weeks it takes for a new one to be crafted.

If you have a new one in your spare parts bin, we'll buy it from you and replace it with a nice pretty new stainless one as soon as we can get it made!

Karen Smith
Harmonie, SM160
Annapolis, MD.


Re: Onan MDKD 6.5kW genset exhaust elbow

Craig Briggs
 

Karen, 
I've got a two JB Weld patches on engine pipes that are now "manufacturer discontinued" .  The patches are, I can't remember exactly, about 15 years old and seem to be as good as new. If your JB Weld patch is holding, you may want to just trust it to continue to hold for longer than a new part might last. Obviously, your experience may be different, but it may be perfectly OK. JB Weld rocks!
Craig

 


Onan MDKD 6.5kW genset exhaust elbow

Karen Smith
 

Does anyone have an exhaust elbow for an Onan 6.5kW MDKD generator exhaust elbow?  Onan considers it an "obsolete part" and the price they want for it is mind-numbing... This is for the older, smaller 6.5kW generator installed on the older SM.

We would even be interested in an old one that leaks or is otherwise not serviceable since we have identified a supplier who can craft a new one for a reasonable price from from any elbow that is complete enough for them to get dimensions from. Right now ours works, but is patched with JB Weld, and we can't afford to send it off and be without a generator for the 6 to 12 weeks it takes for a new one to be crafted.

If you have a new one in your spare parts bin, we'll buy it from you and replace it with a nice pretty new stainless one as soon as we can get it made!

Karen Smith
Harmonie, SM160
Annapolis, MD.


Re: Companion way for removal

Craig Briggs
 
Edited

Our dodger was, indeed, well bedded to the deck. I'm sure everyone's is - it's the "AMEL Way".  What I did was to VERY carefully, using a fish filleting knife, insert it under the dodger to cut the caulk. That is a CAPITAL LETTERS VERY CAREFULLY! You may come up a better tool but it must be very sharp, very thin and very strong.

First though, I rigged a line to a halyard with some snatch blocks to the mizzen to make it lift straight up from the dodger, then led it through the windshield opening window and applied a LOT of lifting force.  Then I went to the filet knife and started cutting. After a while I saw some movement and then used some chisels as wedges to break the seal more and it finally worked. I had three tiny nicks (about 1/8th inch roundish)  in the deck gelcoat at some places in the base of the dodger where I was not careful enough with the chisel.  I patched them and they are not visible now. This took about 3 hours to do. You should take 4 hours and not nick the gelcoat at all.

Once the dodger popped free it is easy-peasy. There is wire through the deck in the middle of the dodger going to the overhead light but it has enough slack (about 6 inches) so you can easily tilt and swing the dodger to allow the companionway hatch to slide up and out. Re-bedding was very easy. I just used silicone so if I need to take it off again it will be easy, but you can take your pick of bedding compounds.

If I recall correctly, I did this about 2004 and the Plexiglas (Perspex in Europe?) is still in excellent condition. It does have a couple of barely noticeable vertical scratches where I must have been careless with not cleaning off some boatyard grit, but, it's hardly noticeable and hey, we're talking 15 years!. 

The one thing that isn't perfect is that I chose a plexiglass with a very light grey tint that seemed like a good idea at the time.  That's great, as during the day it looks like a black mirror from the outside, giving complete privacy below - at night with lights on below you can see right through, hence the hanging privacy shade. During the day, though, if the hatch is closed and exposed to direct sunlight it heats up and expands such that it binds in the track and is hard to open or close. Just a small annoyance, but if I did it again I might choose totally clear plexiglass and maybe a fraction thinner. Or, and it's one of those "one-of-these-years" things, I might just sand the wood slots a bit wider but, obviously, it's not a big deal. We've got a great "T-Top" over the cockpit so sun on the plexiglass is rare. 

Katherine and I think it is one of the best modifications we made to the boat and we did not do it until we had lived aboard for 5 years, so we did think it out thoroughly. Then, after we did it we hired a psychic who put us in touch with "The Captain" - the psychic said that he was smiling! That's our story and we're stickin' to it!

Cheers, Craig


Re: New Genoa sail for Amel 54

Alan Leslie
 

There shouldn't be a foam luff on the mail, as Danny says, it wouldn't fit inside the mast, there's barel;y enough room for the plain sail when it's wound into the mast. The shape issue with the main is not nearly as bad as the genoa issue as the main is wound around a vertical rod in the mast. The genoa suffers because it's on a stay which sags more and more as the wind gets up and on an SM there is no backstay tension adjustment which would help.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: New Genoa sail for Amel 54 and SM

Alan Leslie
 

Generally you don;t have a foam luff in a gennaker. These sails are designed to be used reaching and downwind in light conditions.
 The foam luff is only required in a headsail that you intend to partially furl when sailing up wind in strong conditions. The foam insert helps to maintain sail shape when partially furled but it's still not the best, the sail is still far too full in the middle.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: New Genoa sail for Amel 54 and SM

Joerg Esdorn
 

My incidences Genoa does not have a foam luff.  It’s not a thing of beauty when furled but it’s good enough even for upwind work.  You can’t point as well in increased seas anyways, even in a 55.  The Leads are too far back also if you furl more than 3 marks.  So If it’s blowing 25+, I use the staysail upwind.  I have reefed that as well in more than 35 kn upwind. It looks fine.  If I did not have a staysail, I would experiment with a foam luff.  If it’s no longer working you can always replace it. 

Joerg Esdorn 
A55 Kincsem
#53