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Re: Greasing stegring cables
Patrick McAneny
Bill , I may go ahead and try to add a nipple,if as you said the wall is too thin to tap , I will seal it by other means. I will in the future tie the wheel off center to spread the wear as per another owners suggestion a week or so back,a good idea. If the rack is steel, do you think it possible to replace the worn metal through welding in new material and then fashioning new teeth by filing.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 4:19 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables Pat,
I haven't considered that. I assume that you are referring to the racks...the steering cable is sealed.
I assume that the "leaking grease" is coming from the rack housing at one end or the other. If I recall these ends are not perfectly sealed. And as the toothed rack moves back and forth, it could push excess grease toward the ends of the rack housing.
Keep in mind that it is the steel toothed racks inside each rack housing that will fail with excess wear and that excess wear will be very close to the center of each rack. I believe this is wear caused by the autopilot "back and forth motion." It may also be caused by securing the helm in a center position while anchored.
Amel SAV said that they are going to be sourcing these steel toothed racks and have them available, even though the original manufacturer, Ultraflex, has stopped producing them. See the worn rack below:
One rack has teeth pointed upward, the other rack teeth are pointed downward. Tooth orientation, along with primarily
center wear, should be considered when adding grease/fitting.
Translation:Corrugated Washer ---- Teflon half-rings
Possibly, the cover shown below can be drilled to inject grease. If so, this would be a fairly easy modification that could possibly add years of service to the racks.
I am worried that the metal is to thin to take a thread tap. If that is true, possibly it could be drilled, grease injected and a rubber plug inserted.
I know there are a few owners who can answer this question.
We may need a volunteer to study this further.
--
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
James Alton
James,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I replaced the original Amel engine mounts on my Maramu #220 this year. The part you have circled is the bronze stern tube which will extend into the hull. It appeared that mine was bonded and glassed into the hull, it needs to be a rigid connection. The stern tube provides the attachment for the short pc. hose that the stuffing box gland attaches to, it is not supposed to be a bearing. There should be relatively even clearance between the stern tube and the shaft which allows for some engine movement without the shaft touching anywhere. As I understand things the cutlass bearing on our boats forms the aft bearing and the transmission bearing provides the front bearing to support the shaft. Nick already mentioned the two most likely causes of your squeak but I will try to elaborate a little more. Engine alignment is more than just getting the two faces of the coupling mated within a few thousandths, you also need to position shaft so that it is riding close to the center of the bronze stern tube so that it cannot touch. The fancy way to set up this alignment is to remove the stuffing box and the short pc. of hose and fit something solid like round rod of the right OD to hold rigidly hold the shaft in the very center of the stern tube, then to adjust your engine so that it is the correct height and also correctly positioned Port and Stb. Once this is done you can do your actual alignment to get the coupling faces aligned. An easier method that seems to work fine and can be done in the water is to decouple the shaft and by HAND force the shaft coupling to go as far as it will go up down and Port/Stb. You will feel solid contact as you force the coupling to it’s limits as it touches the inside of the stern tube. Note the relative displacement of the couplings to Port/Stb. and Up/Down and adjust the engine so that the displacement is the same top and bottom and side to side which will put the shaft pretty close to the center of the hole in the stern tube. Once this is done, align your coupling faces. Also I initially only did a rough alignment on my engine because I knew that the new mounts would settle a bit and they did. So after 50 hours I did a second alignment and sure enough the whole engine had settled a bit so brought it up. As to the other possible causes of the squeak, as Nick alluded is that the shaft could be bent. You can often tell this when sailing with the engine off and the wheel turning. If the back of the engine is moving around much in time with the shaft rotation, you could have a bent shaft, if it is nice and smooth then probably not. One final possible cause of a squeak can be from having the stuffing box too tight. With the new teflon packings you can pretty much tighten to the point where you don’t have any leakage but if you go too far the box begins to heat up, grab and squeak. Best of luck, James Alton SV Sueno Maramu #220 Preveza, Greece
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Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
Hi James,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
1. If the boat is ashore I would check that the shaft is true. You would need to pull it and take it to a machine shop. 2. I would check the engine alignment again. It is not easy to get spot on. One of the tricks I have learned is to decouple the shaft from the transmission and centre it within the stern tube. Then align the engine to the shaft. On some systems the shaft is floating around and can be moved a lot as there is no bearing at the engine end of the stern tube. This would be the case with a modern drip free lip seal style stern gland. From the photo I think this is what you have. If there is shaft wiggle then make up a nylon bearing that slots into the stern tube at the front end, this involves removing the shaft seal, and sliding the nylon bearing over the shaft and into the stern tube. So there is a cutlass bearing aft and another nylon temporary bearing forward. This then centres the shaft spot on within the stern tube. With the shaft centred you then align the engine to it. It needs to be spot on. Then obviously remove the temporary nylon bearing, and put back the shaft seal. The problem is that it is much easier to do out of the water but the hull may take up a slightly different shape ashore, although if it has been carefully chocked and is nice and level a solid hull like a Maramu will probably not move much. If in the water, I have used a greased tape or plastic wrapped around the shaft and pushed into the cutlass bearing to reduce the flow. This works quite well, but water leaking into the boat adds a bit of stress. There are other techniques, but this is my preferred. Nick S/Y Amelia AML 54-019 Kilada Greece.
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Prop Shaft Squeak
James Lochhead
HI,
The attached photo is of the stuffing box and where the shaft on my maramu exits the boat. Is the circled part another bearing that is glassed into the hull? We have a "sqeak" or hum when the prop shaft is spinning at certain revs (both with engine and when sailing and free spinning) that we have not been able to diagnose. The problem started following the failure of our engine mounts. The engine mounts have been replaced and the cutless bearing was replaced at next haul out, however a squeak has remained on our last short cruise before hauling out again. I have checked the engine alignment, the stuffing was replaced, but the squeak remained. We will be back on the boat again in the new year and would like to eliminate the cause for this before going back in the water and if this is a bearing then possibly order one now. -- James Maramu #147 (1984)
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Re: Supermaramu wire sizes?
I guess I should have just sent you the links.😀 Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 5:33 PM Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
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Re: Supermaramu wire sizes?
Thanks for the follow up Bill, I did read about Scott on Tengh rewiring with 2x50mm2 for his 5000w inverter. I believe others have installed the 3000w with the 100A wire. Can't recall the size inverter that Delos installed or if they rewired. I did a double take on the resulting wire size from your calculations and I redid them myself and cross checked on a different calculator before I realized that the wire length should be entered in meters not feet. This results in a wire size of 50mm2 or 1AWG (actually 42.4mm2) for a 4 meter wire. That is why I wanted to confirm the wire sizes. My guestimate is that the 100Amp charger has a 50mm2 wire as it looks close to the size of another labeled 50mm wire on the boat. Then the existing 1800watt inverter looks slightly smaller, like it has a 35mm2 wire and the wire to the inverter looks even smaller, perhaps 25mm. The wire to the alternator is just a bit larger than the 100A charger, so that could be 70mm2, which would be appropriate for the 175 amp. The wire to the bow thruster (longest run and highest current @ 300-400A) looks like a 4/0AWG length of have which is between the standard sizes of 95mm2 and 120mm2. I'm pretty comfortable with the calculations, and I am really just looking for confirmation on the existing wire sizes. Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 1:52 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@... wrote:
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Re: Greasing stegring cables
Pat, The potential grease port location I spoke of may be easy to reach on one rack, but I am not sure about the other. See below. --
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 3:19 PM CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Greasing stegring cables
Pat, I haven't considered that. I assume that you are referring to the racks...the steering cable is sealed. I assume that the "leaking grease" is coming from the rack housing at one end or the other. If I recall these ends are not perfectly sealed. And as the toothed rack moves back and forth, it could push excess grease toward the ends of the rack housing. Keep in mind that it is the steel toothed racks inside each rack housing that will fail with excess wear and that excess wear will be very close to the center of each rack. I believe this is wear caused by the autopilot "back and forth motion." It may also be caused by securing the helm in a center position while anchored. Amel SAV said that they are going to be sourcing these steel toothed racks and have them available, even though the original manufacturer, Ultraflex, has stopped producing them. See the worn rack below: One rack has teeth pointed upward, the other rack teeth are pointed downward. Tooth orientation, along with primarily center wear, should be considered when adding grease/fitting. Translation:Corrugated Washer ---- Teflon half-rings Possibly, the cover shown below can be drilled to inject grease. If so, this would be a fairly easy modification that could possibly add years of service to the racks. I am worried that the metal is to thin to take a thread tap. If that is true, possibly it could be drilled, grease injected and a rubber plug inserted.
I know there are a few owners who can answer this question.
We may need a volunteer to study this further. --
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: New VHF antenna = newly discovered electrical leak!
Sv Garulfo
Hello, We have a similar issue with our VHF and haven't so far figured out if due to antenna or cabling. (measure of the impedance between the core and shield of the existing system returns a infinite value) How easy was it to run the new coax cable? What cable length did you get? Is there a dedicated gulley for that cable? Did you find the old cable was damaged by chafing? On Garulfo, we know the rigging is connected to the bonding system, which we confirmed when tracking a mass leak last year. As per your mass leak, carbon dust can be the reason for it. Thomas & Soraya Garulfo A54-122 Marquesas, FP
On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 at 03:17, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
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Re: Greasing stegring cables
Patrick McAneny
Bill, For some years now I have had a minor leak of grease from the rack&pinion . What do you think about adding a nipple to put a little grease back into the unit .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 9:52 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables The cables are sealed.
The racks and pinion have to be disassembled to add grease.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 7:32 AM Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:
How and where do I Grease the Steering Cables?
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Re: Marina ZZ bilge pump maintenance kit
- the TF Marine pump is identical to the amfa reya marina zz? Very close with some subtle differences--- and all of the rebuild parts are identical. - the maintenance kit provided by amel is a TF marine or marine ZZ? (Or are they the same?) The careful answer is, "at one time, I am 99% sure that Amel supplied TF maintenance kits, but I am also 99% sure that Amel supplied some other brand kit which was the same size. --
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 12:51 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
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Re: Supermaramu wire sizes?
Dan, Yes, the Amels that I have seen have increased the size of the wiring. You might want to look at this:https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/dc-to-ac-amperage-conversion-run-through-an-inverter.html 3000 watts = 13.64 amps of 220 volts: So the short answer is, assuming that the 24 volt wiring for the 100 charger watt was designed for 100 amps. You should NOT use that wire because you should expect a maximum of around 140 amps. Not good! So, replacement is going to be required. Since replacement is required, calculate the wiring size needed for the inverter/charger using an online calculator...here is one:
https://www.solar-wind.co.uk/info/dc-cable-wire-sizing-tool-low-voltage-drop-calculator I am not sure about the length of the cable run...I used 12 feet...it could be 15 feet. The result above shows required wire is 120 mm2 = 12.4mm diameter, which is about 1/2" diameter Hope this helps. --
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 11:30 AM Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
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Re: Marina ZZ bilge pump maintenance kit
Sv Garulfo
Dear Amelians Just wanted to confirm my understanding after reading this thread - the TF Marine pump is identical to the amfa reya marina zz? - the maintenance kit provided by amel is a TF marine or marine ZZ? (Or are they the same?) - @jose, did you use the TF Marine kit on an Amfa marina zz or TF Marine pump? Thanks for your clarifications Regards Soraya Garulfo A54-122 Tahuata, Marquesas, French Polynesia
On 16 Sep 2019, at 12:30, Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...> wrote:
Dear fellows If anyone needs a new pump or a maintenance kit, contact: info@... Francesca give me 6-8 weeks for a new pump: Diaphragm pump TM 50 24V DC 0,12Kw With body pump in PVC - 460 € Spare parts kit for TM 50 complete of: 2 membranes 2 valves 1 o-ring - 40 €
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Re: Supermaramu wire sizes?
Hi Bill, yes I'm well aware of the different cable sizing standards. But was looking for the reference data for the actual cables in the SM. The existing cables are well shielded and have shrink wrap covering right up to the terminal lug so the actual wire is not accessible for direct measurements. I am just trying to understand the sizes with respect to the various loads. Several of boats have talked of replacing the original Dolphin 100A with a 3000watt Victron Multi or Quatro and I wanted to understand the impact in terms of current load and voltage drop potential. Regards, Daniel Carlson
On Fri, Nov 22, 2019, 7:04 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@... wrote:
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Re: Bimini Twist Lock Fastener
Gerhard Mueller
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 03:39 PM, Paul Stascavage wrote:
Thank you Gerhard. From the description I am not sure if the overall length is 22mm or if the hole to hole dimension is 22mm.Actually I am not on the boat for measuring. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: Greasing stegring cables
Arthur Sundqvist
Thank you. Bill...
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Kindest regards Arthur Skickat från min iPhone
23 nov. 2019 kl. 14:52 skrev CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>:
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Re: Heaving-to experiences/advice, and Jordan series drogue use
rossirossix4
As others have noted, good descriptions in our Group. Also.... http://www.oceannavigator.com/March-April-2011/Prepare-for-survival-conditions/
Bob,KAIMI SM429
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Re: Greasing stegring cables
The cables are sealed. The racks and pinion have to be disassembled to add grease. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 7:32 AM Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote: How and where do I Grease the Steering Cables?
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Re: Bimini Twist Lock Fastener
Paul Stascavage
Thank you for your reply Ann-Sofie,
The ones I saw at sailrite were all either 22mm hole to hole or just under 16mm. I'll take another look. All the best, Paul Stascavage SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn Currently Exploring Brunswick, GA www.RitaKathryn.com
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Re: Bimini Twist Lock Fastener
Hey Paul - Can't help you with the fasteners, but if you're exploring Brunswick, GA this is an absolute must visit." A short walk from the marina. Cheers, Craig
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