|
Re: Antal 120x18 Composite Fibre jib block
Hi,
I grase my cars and blocks with "Harken one Drop" it is excellent! Arnold SY Zephyr SM 203 Am 11.11.2019 um 23:06 schrieb Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...>: I asked Antal how to service the blocks on my boat. They said rinsing with fresh water and a little grease.
-- SY Zephyr SM203
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Antal 120x18 Composite Fibre jib block
Joerg Esdorn
I asked Antal how to service the blocks on my boat. They said rinsing with fresh water and a little grease.
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
sbmesasailor
We use swimming noodles as well (cut into smaller pieces so they closely follow the curvature of the hull). Dennis Libertad Maramu 121
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Hi James,
You may want to consider a 3 position high capacity rotary switch. This is what we did when we added an inverter. Our inverter had an internal transfer switch which we did not use. Easiest to explain by looking at photos first. https://photos.app.goo.gl/xoac3UQCHckm7TPN8 It is pretty straight forward although it may sound a bit complicated here. We knew what we wanted but we used a knowledgeable electrician at Manoel Island Yacht Yard (one of the best yards in Europe, IMHO) to make sure that everything was safe and correct. Where it enters the "220V white box" above the sink, we disconnected the wire that comes from the Amel automatic transfer switch--this leaves the Amel auto shorepower/generator function intact. The wire was shortened and connected to the 3 way rotary switch--1,5 9 on the table. The inverter was wired to the batteries at the 100amp charger with an appropriately sized 24v breaker (ABYC requirement and a good idea). The 220V output then goes to an RCD as soon as it exits the inverter (this our electrician insisted upon even though there is an RCD at the "white box". (RCD provides shock safety for 220V European much like GFIs in the US but by measuring current return discrepancies vs ground fault). Then the inverter output goes to the rotary switch--3,7,11 on the rotary switch wiring table. This gives total electrical isolation between the gen/shorepower and the inverter. Whether you choose to switch the ground as well can be discussed with your electrician--switching the ground allows total isolation, while keeping it continuous is usually code (to guard against ground failure). The corresponding outputs (2,6,10) and (4,8,12) go to the "white box" via 2-3 conductor wires OR, as we did by 1 wire after shunting 2-4;6-8;10-12 with a single 3 conductor exit wire to the white box. Advantages of the 3 way rotary switch, in our opinion and experience are: 1)complete isolation between gen/shorepower and inverter 2)total disconection when switching between between sources--NO connection as you pass through 0 position, and zero connections if you place the switch in the center position--which we do before starting the generator or plugging to shore power 3)simplicity of operation 4)allows you to use devices--which we do--such as inverter powering the water heater OR washing machine. We heat water when we have excess solar and can do clothes washing with the inverter (specially handy when motoring without robbing your battery bank--you can even do a 30 minute express wash while you de-anchor and exit an anchorage or enter an anchorage and complete anchoring) 5)controls--generator, inverter, and selector switch can be located together. 6)safety features with 24V breaker and RCD and high (63amp) capacity of switch and wire used. Despite its capacity it is reasonably sized and selector does not look out of place. In our case the watermaker may not be operated as it exceeds our inverter capacity and we don't run the hotwater heater and the washing machine together, or say a hair dryer and microwave. In the future, with lithium batteries we may swap out for a larger inverter. If capacity is exceeded either the inverter and the 24V breaker that feeds it will shut down. Switch is relatively inexpensive and made for this type of application--Google search for SZW26 63 660V 63A . Priced so that you can carry a spare. Blue Sea makes a similar version that does not require output shunting but is significantly more expensive https://www.bluesea.com/products/9019/AC_Rotary_Switch_-_OFF_%2B_2_Positions_240V_AC_65A The only complication we encountered was extending the length of the selector stem to go through the plywood--the guys at Manoel did not want to risk high temps by welding and used a tube and JB weld or similar as I recall. Don't forget to cover the back of the rotary switch--even though it is up and out of the way like the generator switch and behind a baffle. Again pics are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/xoac3UQCHckm7TPN8 one of the photos show both 24V breaker (waterproof) and RCD box (probably could have been more compact, I think it was for a double) Let us know if you have questions. Bob and Suzanne, SM 429 KAIMI
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Down wind pole corrosion damage
The black rubber thing you removed is the chafing shoulder where the short pole rides on the main mast rigging.
My guess is that sometime during the life of your Amel and while sailing with this pole, the yellow "down guy" was too loose, broke, or the operator failed to rig it. I think a temporary repair is risky because I don't believe any of us know the "design load." The aluminum tube should probably be replaced. --
On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 10:54 AM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote: A small crack emerged from under the black cover on the inner down wind pole. I drilled out the cover's retaining rivets and saw the full damage. Visiting the local welder to discuss options. Glad I found this prior to February's Panama City to Marquesas passage.
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Raw water pump on Volvo D3
Gerhard Mueller
Hard to say without inspecting the pump. Often a lip seal makes a groove in the shaft after some times. Then it is time to change for a new shaft also.
However when the surface of the shaft at the lip seal area is OK, only changing the lip seal is sufficient. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
Thomas Kleman
Have to agree with Mark and the others. Having cruised for a while now, during sleep your sailing brain seems to segregate normal noises (waves, wind, shrimp, rain, thunder, etc) from noises you shouldn't hear (like voices for example) and will get you out of bed when necessary. I'd wait a while before making an investment here.
Tom and Kirstin S V L'ORIENT SM 2K 422
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Down wind pole corrosion damage
Thomas Kleman
A small crack emerged from under the black cover on the inner down wind pole. I drilled out the cover's retaining rivets and saw the full damage. Visiting the local welder to discuss options. Glad I found this prior to February's Panama City to Marquesas passage.
Tom and Kirstin SM2K 422 SV L'ORIENT
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
Mohammed, photos?
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Nov 11, 2019, at 10:53 AM, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
Learn to sleep with a pillow over your head and hope your wife still loves you
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Nov 11, 2019, at 9:48 AM, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
Hi Stephan,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
We too were concerned about this but as Bill and Mark rightly say it just goes away as an irritant after a short time on board.
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
Mohammad Shirloo
Hello Stefan;
After the first season aboard Kokomo about 5 years ago, we started looking for a solution for the “banging” you refer to. After a few iterations of trying different solutions, we came up with our final solution that we affectionately refer to as the “slap slap device”.
It basically consists of two layers of mesh fabric (the same material cargo straps are made of), strengthened by 1 inch mesh straps sewed in both directions every 18 inches. The two layers are then sewed together forming several pockets that we have inserted 2 mm waterproof foam for floatation and sound insulation. This is custom made to fit the entire stern from the trailing edge of the rudder to the back of the transom and all the way to the sides about 12 inches above the water line. It has several long straps for attachment to the lifelines/stanchions.
We simply deploy from the stern and slip it under the stern from the sides. We just attach four of the straps to the lifelines (just at the forward/rudder end) and let the rest happily float and move up and down with the water movement, under the stern. This provides an insulated barrier between the water line and the hull, where the hull rises out of the water at the stern and the sound originates from.
It takes one person about 5 minutes to deploy and retrieve. We simply fold and hang on the life lines, after retrieval, to dry.
This will handle almost all conditions that we typically anchor in, where the boat is facing the wind and waves. It does not do as well when larger waves are coming from the stern, but does help to dampen the sound (this is not a common condition). We also deploy her at marinas/harbors where small wavelets are present. As soon as deployed, it transforms the master cabin from a drum machine, into a quiet place to rest and relax. It is on extremely rare occasions that we have to move to the forward cabin due to sound.
We have now utilized our slap slap device for 5 seasons in the Med. It has been used in all conditions from 2-3 knot currents to 35-40 knot winds. She is almost like new and should last for a few more years. It has made a huge difference for us, as the master cabin was one of the major selling points of the 54 and we could not imagine, not being to utilize it.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Stefan Schaufert via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 5:48 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wave slap / banging under the stern
Hello to all,
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
Hi Stefan,
In the past, we have effectively used swimming noodles. Put a rope through about three of them and attach each end of the rope to the furthest aft cleats on the toe-rail (level with the portholes of the aft cabin). Pull the noodles into position under the stern.
No that we have been living on the boat for quite some time, the noise no longer bothers us. At first it was very annoying.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Stefan Schaufert
Hello to all,
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Desperate plea for an alternator/charging problem - Amel Euros 41, 1976, MD21a engine
Andrew, You will not find 24 volts in your Euros. Later model Amels have 24 volts, beginning with the Super Maramu. --
On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 2:45 AM Andrew Eaves <andyeaves@...> wrote: Hi John
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
Stefan, I know that this is hard to believe, but the number one cure is time. Over a period of months, this will become less of a distraction to you and you will become more accustomed to it. There are many things you can do and/or buy, but none really changes the waves or the shape of the hull. The slapping issue is caused by the waves or swell, not the Amel 54, although the Amel 54 will be worse than the SM. The 54 has a wider flatter stern hull...more area to slap. --
On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 8:45 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Final on the genset exhaust fan wiring
Thanks Eric. Your description reflects that the fuse and capacitor are each in series on the load, with the fuse and capacitor parallel to one another. I assume that wiring the
fuse and capacitor parallel to one another and in series on the load is the same as each being wired in-line and in series to the load. I suspect that either way the fuse and capacitor will do their job. Since I am not an electrician, I would wire them in-line and in series to the load with the fuse between the load source and the capacitor and the capacitor between the fuse and blower. But, my method probably isn't as clean and neat. One day I will go back to school, maybe.😀 --
On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 10:59 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
I notice it in harbour, not at anchor so much, but if I run the fan all night it helps drown it out.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Nick Amelia AML 54-019
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hi Gents,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
WE have an SM, so we have the same problem perhaps worse. We use large clothes pegs and attach a blanket overboard across the transom .. its a bit of a faffff but it reduces the wave slap. After the condition, we wash the blanket . Good luck. Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007, Opua, NZ jp.germain45@gmail.com
On 12 Nov 2019, at 03:27, Ian <parkianj@gmail.com> wrote:
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern
Ian Park
Hmmm
If it’s really bad we move up front. Tried a couple of other things, but nothing that really works. Ian Ocean Hobo SN96
|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Raw water pump on Volvo D3
I have another question for the group.
Two years ago in Trinidad I replaced the bearings and seals on the raw water pump on my Volvo D3 as it was dripping sea water. Not ideal since the 12v alternator is directly below!!! Since then it has not leaked a drop it until now. I noticed a few crystals of salt on a little plastic tray, I keep below the pump, whilst putting the boat to bed for the winter. The rebuild two years ago was some 500 engine hours ago. Is that normal? I am a bit disappointed. I was hoping for double that. What to do? 1. Buy whole new pump at a cost of £525. 2. Buy the rebuild kit that includes a new shaft. £225 3. or just fit a new lip seal that costs very little about £5 Nick S/Y Amelia AML 54-019 Bazimakopolos yard, Greece
|
||||||||
|
|
