Date   
Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Paul Brown
 

Hi Joerg, I have call mastervolt head office and spoke with Michele a technician who is generally very helpful for information, he is on leave until the 8th of July I believe, this is one option 

Regards Paul 


On 3 Jul 2019, at 6:25 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia

Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

 

Joerg,

That's what I thought when you first started having overheat alarms in your 55 battery area. The Mastervolt alternator is continuing to charge, already charged batteries, causing heat in the battery area. Pochon's suggestion to change the regulator is logical, but I am surprised that they did not check the voltage at the bank and at the regulator to ensure that they were the same.

I am not an electrician: My guess is that either the regulator settings are wrong, the regulator is defective, or there is resistance in the wire and connections between the actual battery bank and the regulator, which is lowering the voltage "seen" by the regulator and "fooling" the regulator to continue charging. 

My non-electrician suggestion: It will be a tedious process checking between both. I believe that you will find the most likely connections near and on the excite relay for the alternator. loosen each connection and use CorrosionX before retightening. Make sure that any crimp connectors are done correctly and have crimped the entire wire, replace any suspects. Check voltage often during the process so that you'll know when you have found and corrected the resistance problem.

As an alternative and temporary patch, maybe you could lower the charged voltage setting at the regulator by 2.5 volts.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 12:25 PM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia

Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Great suggestions. One more. We anchored all over the Caribbean this season. Sometimes as long as 10 days in one spot. In Prickly bay Grenada we saw the worst fouling of chain. 2 inch thick growth on about 60 feet of chain. The worst smelling goup you've ever encountered. We we're 12 days in one spot. We could do nothing but sail with it to Trinidad and remove all chain power wash and disinfect the chain locker. It will never be the same neither will we. 
All the best 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 1:10 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico

Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

 

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
image.png

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>

Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia

Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Gary Silver
 

Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico

Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

James Sterling
 

Do yourself a favor and properly maintain your chain.  While I've been working on various other refits in the last couple of years we've anchored in fairly shallow waters and not used much of our chain.  We had never pulled it completely out since purchase 3 years ago.  When I finally got down to chain replacement on my list I found myself in a nightmare.  After pulling a good part out, everything stopped.  Closer inspection revealed terribly rusted chain that was kinked and wouldn't come out.  I hammered on links for 2 weeks removing a few feet at a time and then realized the remainder was balled up into what I can only describe as a dragons egg.  Welded together by rust.  I tried everything.  Finally I resorted to soaking it all in 10 gallons of white vinigar with salt for 3 days.  Some progress was made but not enough to get it out.  It was wedged tightly in the locker and would not lift out.  I thought about it a day or two and got creative.  I ran a hook snubber line up thorugh the hawsepipe from the anchor locker and attached it to the primary halyard.  I winched with what I estimate was about 300lbs of force and the whole mess broke free.  At that point, I had to look at it kind of like a diamond cutter as to which link to cut to start making headway.   Then I went to work with a battery powered angle grinder, cutting a section at a time and pulling bits of the mess out through locker access to the forward compartment into a bucket.  This took a lot of time and taught me to take care of the chain.  New chain was eventually marked and installed.  It will come out yearly to reverse and maintain.  Take care of your chain.

Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Barry Connor
 

Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>

AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Stefan Schaufert
 

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE


Re: Masse - and Masse + lights

Barry Connor
 

Thank’s Bill and Mohammed,
I spoke to Nicholas at Dessalator who confirmed they have it. Trouble I have is doing a bank transfer from the boat, bank need to text me before doing transfer and I can’t get that to work from US Bank to UK cell phone.
I found “Advance Yacht Systems” in UK who have the part and actually get it from Dessalator. Easy payment with them (PayPal and Credit Card) and as I have crew joining from UK next week can ship to them to carry here.
Thank’s again for your help. Could not imagine having to use the small button on the side of the solenoid for too long. Nice though to have that as a backup. Also when the solenoid coil burnt it blew one of the control board fuses. I assume that is a protection to not burn up the control board.
Best Regards

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,  Sicily
For the next week.


On Jul 3, 2019, at 16:03, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Email contact"at"dessalator.com. They have it and can ship. There are different models. Include a photo. 
On Wed, Jul 3, 2019, 1:35 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily


On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ruedi,

In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches. 

If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing. 

Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."

I hope this helps you. Good luck. 

Bill Rouse

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group Friends

 

I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:

 

I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. 

 

The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. 

BTW:  I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).

 

- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? 

- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? 

- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?

 

It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?

 

Best regards

Ruedi

P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2019 um 14:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava


Re: Masse - and Masse + lights

 

Email contact"at"dessalator.com. They have it and can ship. There are different models. Include a photo. 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019, 1:35 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily


On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ruedi,

In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches. 

If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing. 

Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."

I hope this helps you. Good luck. 

Bill Rouse

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group Friends

 

I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:

 

I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. 

 

The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. 

BTW:  I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).

 

- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? 

- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? 

- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?

 

It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?

 

Best regards

Ruedi

P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2019 um 14:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava


Re: SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA

Mark McGovern
 

Alex,

Be sure to check out Noonsite: https://www.noonsite.com/place/usa/

The lack of a holding tanks could be an issue for you as you cannot discharge "black water" within 3 miles of shore.  It's a significant fine on the order of US$2000 if you are found to be in violation of the law.  Here is a link to the EPA website regarding this issue:  https://www.epa.gov/vessels-marinas-and-ports/vessel-sewage-frequently-asked-questions#ndz

At the end of the EPA page there is a list of people you can contact about this.  I would contact one of them and see what they say,

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

I think the Maramu's air draft is only about 55', so, Alex, the ICW is totally accessible to you - we've "done the ditch" a few times in our similarly sized Santorin. It does offer some good flexibility to either go offshore or "inside" up the US east coast as weather allows and there are many excellent places to see.  Pick up any of the excellent ICW guides.
Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris

Re: Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft

James Alton
 

Confirming that the Vetus flexible rubber coupling type 6 #KO18 rubber doughnuts supplied by Amel were exactly the same dimensions as the original parts and fit perfectly.     My boat is a 1987 Maramu with a 35mm shaft.

James
SV Sueno

Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "James Alton via Groups.Io" <lokiyawl2@...>
Date: 7/3/19 11:11 AM (GMT+01:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft

Miles,
   Thanks for your input. I now have my Vetus Flexible coupling apart.  Removal of the forward half of the coupling is simply a matter of removal of the coupling bolts. This exposes the forward half of the rubber doughnuts. It looks like if the coupling bolts and the aft coupling half was cocked that it might provide enough clearance to remove the rubber doughnuts, not sure.  The collar nut traps the coupling bolts.  The proper way appears to be to remove the collar nut which allows the aft half of the coupling to slid aft, completely exposing the doughnuts.  The collar nut is to be tightened to 130 pounds using a spanner wrench that is 20" long so something around 200 foot pounds.  I was able to find a thin wrench only 9 inches long so I was pretty concerned that removal and retightening the collar nut might be impossible, hence my posted question.  It turns out however that after lots of soaking with penetrating oil that the collar nut easily unscrewed by tapping the short spanner wrench with a rawhide mallet so clearly the nut was already loose.  So I now have complete access to the rubber doughnuts and this will be an easy job so long as the spanner wrench does not fold up trying to torque the collar nut.  Vetus lists a 60-90mm 20 inch long spanner wrench on their website but show  no stock.  I think I will try to find a spanner wrench that exactly fits the collar nut to have aboard.  I think the adjustable wrench will pop out of the slot in the collar nut if tapped with a hammer.  I purchased a package of the rubber doughnuts from Amel and a second package from SVB24. I am about to find out of they are correct.  The original rubber doughnuts actually look to be in quite good shape so perhaps they have been replaced.

   Send me PM sometime and update us on your Atlantic crossing.  If you would like any photos of the Vetus coupling disassembled let me know.

Best,
James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramun#220




Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard@...>
Date: 7/2/19 11:20 PM (GMT+01:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft

Hi James 
I watched a mechanic undo mine when I had the engine mounts replaced 
No special tools were used
As far as I remember there were a series of bolts around the outer perimeter that connected the 2 halves. The bolt heads I think had holes in to allow for seizing wire 
Once undone and the shaft pulled aft the rubber cones that sit on shafts were exposed 
We want to replace mine to but could source them at the time very easily so it’s something I might have a go at soon. 

All the very best
Miles
Horta 
Azores  
Heading back to the uk as soon as the weather allows !



On 1 Jul 2019, at 11:30, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Hello,
   Looking for advice on the disassembly and replacement of the rubber parts on what appears to be an original Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling on the 35mm shaft of my1987  Marmu.  (No C drive)  If I will  need any specialty tools such as the collar wrench for the job please let me know.  

Thanks,

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Sardinia

Re: Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft

James Alton
 

Miles,
   Thanks for your input. I now have my Vetus Flexible coupling apart.  Removal of the forward half of the coupling is simply a matter of removal of the coupling bolts. This exposes the forward half of the rubber doughnuts. It looks like if the coupling bolts and the aft coupling half was cocked that it might provide enough clearance to remove the rubber doughnuts, not sure.  The collar nut traps the coupling bolts.  The proper way appears to be to remove the collar nut which allows the aft half of the coupling to slid aft, completely exposing the doughnuts.  The collar nut is to be tightened to 130 pounds using a spanner wrench that is 20" long so something around 200 foot pounds.  I was able to find a thin wrench only 9 inches long so I was pretty concerned that removal and retightening the collar nut might be impossible, hence my posted question.  It turns out however that after lots of soaking with penetrating oil that the collar nut easily unscrewed by tapping the short spanner wrench with a rawhide mallet so clearly the nut was already loose.  So I now have complete access to the rubber doughnuts and this will be an easy job so long as the spanner wrench does not fold up trying to torque the collar nut.  Vetus lists a 60-90mm 20 inch long spanner wrench on their website but show  no stock.  I think I will try to find a spanner wrench that exactly fits the collar nut to have aboard.  I think the adjustable wrench will pop out of the slot in the collar nut if tapped with a hammer.  I purchased a package of the rubber doughnuts from Amel and a second package from SVB24. I am about to find out of they are correct.  The original rubber doughnuts actually look to be in quite good shape so perhaps they have been replaced.

   Send me PM sometime and update us on your Atlantic crossing.  If you would like any photos of the Vetus coupling disassembled let me know.

Best,
James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramun#220




Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard@...>
Date: 7/2/19 11:20 PM (GMT+01:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft

Hi James 
I watched a mechanic undo mine when I had the engine mounts replaced 
No special tools were used
As far as I remember there were a series of bolts around the outer perimeter that connected the 2 halves. The bolt heads I think had holes in to allow for seizing wire 
Once undone and the shaft pulled aft the rubber cones that sit on shafts were exposed 
We want to replace mine to but could source them at the time very easily so it’s something I might have a go at soon. 

All the very best
Miles
Horta 
Azores  
Heading back to the uk as soon as the weather allows !



On 1 Jul 2019, at 11:30, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Hello,
   Looking for advice on the disassembly and replacement of the rubber parts on what appears to be an original Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling on the 35mm shaft of my1987  Marmu.  (No C drive)  If I will  need any specialty tools such as the collar wrench for the job please let me know.  

Thanks,

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Sardinia

Re: Masse - and Masse + lights

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Barry;

It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.

Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant. I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.

I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.

Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.

If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily


On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ruedi,

In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches. 

If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing. 

Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."

I hope this helps you. Good luck. 

Bill Rouse

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group Friends

 

I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:

 

I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. 

 

The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. 

BTW:  I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).

 

- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? 

- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? 

- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?

 

It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?

 

Best regards

Ruedi

P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2019 um 14:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava


Re: Masse - and Masse + lights

Barry Connor
 

Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily


On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ruedi,

In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches. 

If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing. 

Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."

I hope this helps you. Good luck. 

Bill Rouse

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group Friends

 

I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:

 

I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. 

 

The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. 

BTW:  I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).

 

- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? 

- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? 

- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?

 

It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?

 

Best regards

Ruedi

P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2019 um 14:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava


Re: Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft

smiles bernard
 

Hi James 
I watched a mechanic undo mine when I had the engine mounts replaced 
No special tools were used
As far as I remember there were a series of bolts around the outer perimeter that connected the 2 halves. The bolt heads I think had holes in to allow for seizing wire 
Once undone and the shaft pulled aft the rubber cones that sit on shafts were exposed 
We want to replace mine to but could source them at the time very easily so it’s something I might have a go at soon. 

All the very best
Miles
Horta 
Azores  
Heading back to the uk as soon as the weather allows !



On 1 Jul 2019, at 11:30, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Hello,
   Looking for advice on the disassembly and replacement of the rubber parts on what appears to be an original Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling on the 35mm shaft of my1987  Marmu.  (No C drive)  If I will  need any specialty tools such as the collar wrench for the job please let me know.  

Thanks,

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Sardinia

Re: SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA

Mark Erdos
 

Alex,

 

Be sure to check for visa requirements based on the passport you plan to use.

 

When arriving in the USA as a private foreign flagged vessel, you will need to call the Customs Border Protection 800 number. You must have a working phone when you arrive in order to be able to do this. The 800 number will take all of your information and then send you to a CBP office to formally check in. They will need to issue a cruising permit (license) good for one year for the vessel. https://www.cbp.gov/  You are required to call the moment you reach a dock. All crew are required to go for the check in.

 

This is probably not legal but, once we landed in Key West and needed to get a SIM card in order to call the CBP number. We walked to the local CVS (pharmacy) and purchased a SIM card for our phone. We returned to the boat and placed the call.

 

From Jamaica, sail the windward passage (between Haiti and Cuba) and then follow the coast of Cuba to Florida.  This passage is patrolled by the Cubans, Bahamians and USGC. It is an easy sail due to being leeward of the Bahama Islands.

 

I would recommend landing in Key West, FL. I say this because you can easily walk to the CBP office. There are two CBP officers there, one in the court house and one at the airport. They will require the vessel to be at a dock. Docks there are expensive but you can leave after checking in and anchor in the bay. Ft. Lauderdale is another painless entry point. Pier 66 Marina is just inside on the ICW (one drawbridge – opens on the ½ hour and hour on demand) and you can taxi to the CBP office (usually they send you to the cruise port just over the bridge). There is very limited anchoring in Ft. Lauderdale.

 

If you opt to check in at Key West, consider going to Dry Tortugas National Park. A day sail westward from Key West. It is a really cool place to hang for a couple of days.

 

We have always found the CBP to be helpful, professional and friendly (with one exception in St. Augustine FL). The same is true for the USCG. We have been boarded three times and each was a pleasant experience.

 

The cruising permit allows the vessel to cruise in the USA for one year. You must notify CBP as you sail and change CBP regions. This is not clearly defined so, it is just best to call them each time you move the boat more than a few miles or change states.

 

The limits of the ICW fixed bridges is 65’ This is not Amel friendly. Just know that when you see a fixed bridge on a chart, you will not fit under it. Draw bridges are not a problem and many open only on scheduled times. The depth of the ICW in many cases is also problematic for Amels, more so in the remote areas.

 

I do not know about holding tank regulations for foreign vessels. The USGC requires holding tanks on vessels subject to USA regulations. You will need do some homework on this and be absolutely certain of the findings. A fine for a violation would be very expensive. Discharge of sewage from all vessels is prohibited.

 

Consider the Bahamas as a stop either before or after the USA.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alejandro Paquin
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2019 10:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA

 

I am considering sailing up to Florida early December, starting from my home port of La Guaira, Venezuela. I don´t think I would stop in Cuba in principle, but maybe Jamaica. Can anyone provide some tips and advice on a proposed route? Best place for US Port of entry and formalities with a foreign flag vessel and crew. What to expect with US Customs. Also any tips on sailing into the ICW in the Miami- Aventura area? Draft and bridges for example. Also, I don not have any holding tanks onbard, is this an issue to consider?
I´m thinking of heading south again in March or April 2020
--
Alex Paquin
S/V " SIMPATICO"
Amel Maramu
Hull #94, 1981

Re: electrical connector for Boxtron

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Alex,

As you probably noticed, it's made by Anderson Power Products.  It is most likely the SB-50 model.  If you unscrew it and look at the bottom, you'll be able to definitively identify the model.

These connectors are genderless (no need to worry about matching male/female), but will only mate with others of the same color.  The contacts that go inside come in a variety of wire sizes, so be sure you get the right ones for your purpose -- it's likely most suppliers will sell the contacts separately from the housing.  Many sizes are available on Amazon (like this one, which includes 8 AWG contacts) if the manufacturer only sells in bulk.  You could also try Digi-Key once you know the part number for the contacts, which you can find in the data sheet.

These are great connectors.  I've used them on many projects.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Tue, Jul 2, 2019 at 8:28 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Google this: 50A Breakaway DC Power Connector

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 7:24 AM Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Dear all,
I need to know the name/type of this connector and where I can source it. Can you help?
Regards 
Alex Ramseyer 
SY NO STRESS 
AMEL54 #15